2000 DODGE NEON Service Repair Manual

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
FACINGS HAVE
FRACTURED INTO
SMALL PIECESDriver performs a 5-1 downshift at vehicle
speed in excess of 60 miles per hourAlert driver to problem cause. Replace
modular clutch assembly.
Leak at rear main or transaxle input shaft
sealReplace modular clutch assembly. Replace
seal.
Excessive heat from slippage Replace modular clutch assembly
SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐIMPROPER CLUTCH RELEASE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
BINDS ON INPUT
SHAFT SPLINESClutch disc hub splines damaged during
installationClean, smooth, and lubricate disc and shaft
splines. Replace modular clutch assembly
and/or input shaft if splines are severely
damaged.
Input shaft splines rough, damaged. Clean input shaft splines. Then lube.
Corrosion or rust formations on splines of
input shaft and discClean input shaft splines and disc splines,
then lube
CLUTCH DISC
RUSTED TO
FLYWHEEL
AND/OR
PRESSURE PLATEOccurs in vehicles stored or not driven for
extended period of time. Also occurs after
steam cleaning if vehicle is not used for
extended period.Replace modular clutch assembly
CLUTCH WILL NOT
DISENGAGE
PROPERLYDisc bent, distorted during transaxle
installationReplace modular clutch assembly
Clutch cover diaphragm spring damaged
during transaxle installationReplace modular clutch assembly
Release fork bent, loose, or damaged Replace fork if worn or damaged
Clutch cable binding or routed incorrectly Check and correct cable routing
Self-adjuster in cable not functioning
properly, resulting in excess cable slackPull on cable conduit at transaxle (as if
disconnecting cable) to check adjuster
operation
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH PEDAL NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH PEDAL
MAKES REPEATED
ªPOPº NOISE IN
THE FIRST INCH
OF TRAVELSelf-adjusting mechanism in cable defective Replace clutch cable
CLUTCH PEDAL
SQUEAKS WHEN
DEPRESSED TO
FLOORPedal bushings worn out or inadequate
lubricationReplace or lubricate bushings
Clutch pedal return spring worn out Lubricate or replace return spring
Clutch release lever pivot stud has
inadequate lubricationLubricate or replace clutch release lever
6 - 4 CLUTCHPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt,
oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if nec-
essary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace,
if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS
Certain NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are
equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash
when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is
not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further
diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake
may not be functioning.(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc
splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present,
clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease
to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify
that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft
spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if
required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (clutch interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop
switch (Fig. 5). The switch assembly is located in the
clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 6), each
switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,turn the ignition key to the start posi-
tion. The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
Fig. 5 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
PLCLUTCH 6 - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

the ignition key to the start position. The engine
starter should crank. If the starter does not crank,
visually inspect the clutch pedal for obstructions
(floor mat, etc.). Also make sure the clutch pedal
blade contacts and fully
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals2&3with the interlock switchnot depressed (clutch pedal at rest). There should be
no continuity between the terminals (open circuit).
(5) Fully depress the clutch pedal to close the
switch at least 1.25 mm (0.050 in.). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
UPSTOP SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Start engine and operate speed control to main-
tain speed.
(3) Depress clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30 in.).
Speed control operation should terminate. If speed
control does not terminate, the upstop switch is
defective or the related wiring is shorted. Proceed to
the upstop switch electrical test.
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals1&2with the upstop switch
depressed (clutch pedal at rest). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(5) Depress the clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30
in.) check for continuity between terminals1&2.
There should be no continuity between the terminals
(open circuit).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
Fig. 6 Clutch/Brake Pedal Bracket Assembly
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 6 CLUTCHPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

housing does not move, it is improperly installed or
defective.
(3) Route cable to the transaxle and connect cable
end to the clutch release lever and transaxle housing
(Fig. 7).
(4) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Install and fasten battery tray.
(6) Install battery and hold-down clamp.
(7) Connect both battery cables.
(8) Verify that the clutch cable is working properly.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable.
(2) Remove instrument panel assembly. Refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Systems for the
proper procedure.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector (Fig. 9).
NOTE: Proper switch harness routing is critical to
switch durability. Note the harness routing and
location of fasteners intended to keep wires from
contacting pedals.
(4) Remove the interlock/upstop switch assembly
from the brake/clutch pedal bracket assembly by
depressing the four plastic wing tabs on each switch.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install switches into the pedal bracket assem-
bly as shown in (Fig. 9). Route harness as was prior
to removal.
(2) Connect interlock/upstop switch connector.
(3) Install instrument panel assembly. Refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Systems for the
proper procedure.
(4) Connect battery negative cable.
(5) Verify proper switch operation. Refer to
Description and Operation in this Group.
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Raise hood.
(2) Disconnect and isolate both battery cables,
remove battery hold down clamp and bolt, and
remove battery.
(3) Remove air cleaner/throttle body assy. (Fig. 10)
as follows:
(a) Disconnect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(b) Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS) and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(c) Disconnect throttle body air duct at intake
manifold.
Fig. 8 Clutch Cable at Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly
1 ± SNAP RING
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL SPACER
3 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
4 ± CLUTCH CABLE
Fig. 9 Interlock and Upstop Switch Mounting
Locations
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 8 CLUTCHPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(d) Remove mounting bolt and nut (Fig. 10) and
partially remove air cleaner assembly.
(e) Disconnect accelerator and speed control (if
equipped) cables after the assy. is removed from
position. Remove air cleaner assembly from vehi-
cle.
(4) Remove battery tray from bracket.
(5) Disconnect ground cable at battery tray
bracket.
(6) Disconnect back-up lamp switch connector.
(7) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 11).
(8) Disconnect clutch cable from release lever and
remove from transaxle (Fig. 11).
(9) Remove shift cable-to-bracket clips (Fig. 12).
(10) Disconnect shift selector and crossover cable
from levers (Fig. 12). Remove cables and secure out
of the way.
(11) Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor connector
(Fig. 13).
(12) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(13) Remove transaxle oil drain plug and drain oil
into a suitable container.
(14) Remove both axle shafts. Refer to Group 3,
Differential and Driveline for the correct procedures.
(15) Remove structural collar (Fig. 14).
(16) Remove the left engine-to-transaxle lateral
bending brace (Fig. 14).
(17) Remove bellhousing dust cover (Fig. 14).
(18) Remove the right engine-to-transaxle lateral
bending brace (Fig. 15).(19) Remove starter motor (Fig. 16).
(20) Remove drive plate-to-clutch module bolts.
(21) Support engine at oil pan with screw jack and
wood block.
(22) Remove transaxle upper mount thru-bolt.
Gain access to this bolt through the driver's side
wheel house (Fig. 17).
(23) Carefully lower engine and transaxle on screw
jack until proper removal clearance is obtained.
Fig. 10 Air Cleaner Assembly Removal/Installation
1 ± AIR CLEANER ASSY.
2 ± THROTTLE BODY DUCTFWD
Fig. 11 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
Fig. 12 Shift Cables at Transaxle
1 ± SHIFT CABLES
2 ± CLIPS
3 ± BRACKET
PLCLUTCH 6 - 9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(24) Obtain a helper to assist in holding transaxle
while removing transaxle-to-engine mounting bolts
(Fig. 18).
(25) Remove transaxle from vehicle (Fig. 18).
(26) Remove modular clutch assembly from tran-
saxle input shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect clutch release bearing and lever for
excessive wear and replace as necessary.
(2) Install clutch module onto input shaft. Install
transaxle into position.
(3) Install transaxle-to-engine mounting bolts (Fig.
18) and tighten to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Raise engine and transaxle with screw jack
until through hole in upper mount aligns with hole
in mount bracket. Install mount bolt and tighten to
108 N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 17).
(5) Remove screwjack.
(6) Install NEW drive plate-to-clutch module bolts
and progressively tighten all bolts in a criss-cross
pattern until the modular clutch assembly seats
against the drive plate. Final torque the bolts to 88
N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install starter motor and tighten bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Make sure to fasten ground
cable to upper starter bolt as shown in (Fig. 16).
Fig. 13 Vehicle Speed Sensor Connector
1 ± CONNECTOR
2 ± SENSOR
3 ± O-RING
4 ± SPEEDO PINIONFig. 14 Left Lateral Bending Brace and Structural
CollarÐTypical
1 ± LATERAL BENDING BRACE
2 ± STRUCTURAL COLLAR
3 ± DUST COVER
Fig. 15 Right Lateral Bending Brace Removal/
InstallationÐTypical
1 ± TRANSAXLE
2 ± ENGINE
3 ± LATERAL BENDING BRACE
6 - 10 CLUTCHPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(8) Connect starter electrical harness and tighten
positive cable nut to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install bellhousing dust cover (Fig. 14).
(10) Install left engine-to-transaxle bending brace
(Fig. 14).(11) Install structural collar (Fig. 14) as follows:
(a) Position collar and install all bolts finger
tight.
(b) Tighten the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 3 N´m
(30 in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Tighten the collar-to-transaxle bolts to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Final torque the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install the right lateral bending brace and
tighten bolts to 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 15).
(13) Install both front axle driveshafts. Refer to
Group 3, Differential and Driveline for the correct
procedures.
(14) Fill transaxle with suitable amount of Mopart
Manual Transaxle Lubricant (PN 04874465).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Connect vehicle speed sensor connector (Fig.
13).
(17) Connect shift crossover and selector cables to
shift lever. Install cables to bracket and install
retaining clips (Fig. 12).
(18) Connect clutch cable to fork and secure to
transaxle (Fig. 11).
(19) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 11).
(20) Connect back-up lamp switch connector.
(21) Connect ground strap to transaxle upper
mount bracket.
(22) Install battery lower tray and battery, and
tighten battery hold down clamp to secure battery.
(23) Install the air cleaner/throttle body assy. as
follows:
(a) Connect the accelerator and speed control (if
equipped) cables to the air cleaner/throttle body
assy.
(b) Install assy into position, making sure the
air cleaner locating slot is engaged to the battery
bracket tab, and tighten fasteners to 14 N´m (120
in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Verify throttle body duct is fully seated to
intake manifold and tighten clamp to 5 N´m (40 in.
lbs.) torque.
(d) Connect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(e) Connect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(24) Connect the battery cables.
(25) Road test vehicle and inspect for leaks.
Fig. 16 Starter Motor Removal/InstallationÐTypical
1 ± BOLT
2 ± GROUND
3±STARTER
4 ± BOLT
Fig. 17 Transaxle Upper Mount Thru-BoltÐTypical
1 ± MOUNT BRACKET
2 ± BOLT
3 ± MOUNT
PLCLUTCH 6 - 11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)