2000 DODGE NEON electrical

ABS ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSIS
The following information is presented to give the
technician a general background on the diagnostic
capabilities of the ABS system. Complete electronic
diagnosis of the ABS system used on this vehicle is
covered in the Chassis Diagnostic Procedures manual.
Electronic diagnosis of the ABS system used on
this vehicle is performed using the DRBIIItscan
tool. The vehicle's scan tool diagnostic connector is
located under the steering column lower cover, to the
left side of the steering column (Fig. 10).
ABS SELF-DIAGNOSIS
The ABS system is equipped with a self-diagnosis
capability, which may be used to assist in the isola-
tion of ABS faults. The features are described below.
START-UP CYCLE
The self-diagnosis ABS start-up cycle begins when
the ignition switch is turned to the ON position.
Electrical checks are completed on ABS components,
including the CAB, solenoid continuity, and the relay
system operation. During this check the amber ABS
warning lamp is turned on for approximately 5 sec-
onds and the brake pedal may emit a popping sound,
moving slightly when the solenoid valves are
checked.
DRIVE-OFF CYCLE
The first time the vehicle is set in motion after an
ignition off/on cycle, the drive-off cycle occurs. This
cycle is performed when the vehicle reaches a speed
of approximately 20 kph (12 mph.).²The pump/motor is briefly activated to verify
function. When the pump/motor is briefly activated, a
whirling or buzzing sound may be heard by the
driver. This sound is normal, indicating the pump/
motor is running.
²The wheel speed sensor output correct operating
range is verified.
ONGOING TESTS
While the system is operating, these tests are per-
formed on a continuous basis:
²solenoid continuity
²wheel speed sensor continuity
²wheel speed sensor output
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC's)
Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are kept in the
controller's memory until either erased by the techni-
cian using the DRB, or erased automatically after
3500 miles or 255 ignition key cycles, whichever
occurs first. DTC's are retained by the controller
even if the ignition is turned off or the battery is dis-
connected. More than one DTC can be stored at a
time. When accessed, the number of occurrences
(ignition key cycles) and the DTC that is stored are
displayed. Most functions of the CAB and the ABS
system can be accessed by the technician for testing
and diagnostic purposes using the DRB.
LATCHING VERSUS NON-LATCHING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE
CODES
Some DTC's detected by the CAB are ªlatchingº
codes. The DTC is latched and ABS braking is dis-
abled until the ignition switch is reset. Thus, ABS
braking is non-operational even if the original DTC
has disappeared. Other DTC's are non-latching. Any
warning lamps that are turned on are only turned on
as long as the DTC condition exists; as soon as the
condition goes away, the amber ABS warning lamp is
turned off, although, in most cases, a DTC is set.
INTERMITTENT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
As with virtually any electronic system, intermit-
tent electrical problems in the ABS system may be
difficult to accurately diagnose. Most intermittent
electrical problems are caused by faulty electrical
connections or wiring. A visual inspection should be
done before trying to diagnose or service the antilock
brake system; this will eliminate unnecessary diag-
nosis and testing time. Perform a visual inspection
for loose, disconnected, damaged, or misrouted wires
or connectors; include the following components and
areas of the vehicle in the inspection.
(1) Inspect fuses in the power distribution center
(PDC) and the wiring junction block. Verify that all
fuses are fully inserted into the PDC and wiring
Fig. 10 ABS System Diagnostic Connector Location
1 ± DRIVER AIRBAG MODULE
2 ± PASSENGER AIRBAG MODULE
3 ± DATA LINK CONNECTOR
PLBRAKES 5 - 75
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

junction block. A label on the underside of the PDC
cover identifies the locations of the ABS fuses.
(2) Inspect the 25-way electrical connector at the
CAB for damaged, spread, or backed-out wiring ter-
minals. Verify that the 25-way connector is fully
inserted in the socket of the CAB. Be sure that wires
are not stretched tight or pulled out of the connector.
(3) Verify that all the wheel speed sensor connec-
tions are secure.
(4) Look for poor mating of connector halves or ter-
minals not fully seated in the connector body.
(5)
Check for improperly formed or damaged termi-
nals. All connector terminals in a suspect circuit should
be carefully reformed to increase contact tension.
(6) Look for poor terminal-to-wire connections.
This requires removing the terminal from the connec-
tor body to inspect it.
(7) Verify pin presence in the connector assembly
(8) Check for proper ground connections. Check all
ground connections for signs of corrosion, loose fas-
teners, or other potential defects. Refer to the wiring
diagrams for ground locations.
(9) Look for problems with the main power sources
of the vehicle. Inspect the battery, generator, ignition
circuits and other related relays and fuses.
If a visual check does not find the cause of the
problem, operate the car in an attempt to duplicate
the condition and record any trouble codes.
Most failures of the ABS disable the ABS function
for the entire ignition cycle even if the fault clears
before key-off. There are some failure conditions,
however, that allow ABS operation to resume during
the ignition cycle in which the trouble occurred even
if the trouble conditions are no longer present.
The following trouble conditions may result in
intermittent illumination of the amber ABS warning
lamp.
²Low system voltage. If Low System Voltage is
detected by the CAB, the CAB will turn on the ABS
Warning Lamp until normal system voltage is
achieved. Once normal voltage is seen at the CAB,
normal operation resumes.
²High system voltage. If high system voltage is
detected by the CAB, the CAB will turn on the
Amber ABS Warning Lamp until normal system volt-
age is achieved. Once normal voltage is again
detected by the CAB, normal ABS operation resumes.
Additional possible causes that may result in the
illumination of the amber ABS warning lamp are as
follows:
²Any condition that interrupts electrical current
to the CAB may cause the amber ABS warning lamp
to turn on intermittently.
²If PCI communication between the body control-
ler and the CAB is interrupted, the body controller
can turn on the amber ABS warning lamp.
TONE WHEEL
Tone wheels can cause erratic wheel speed sensor
signals. Inspect tone wheels for the following possible
causes:
²missing, chipped, or broken teeth
²contact with the wheel speed sensor
²wheel speed sensor to tone wheel alignment
²wheel speed sensor to tone wheel clearance
²excessive tone wheel runout
²tone wheel loose on its mounting surface
If a front tone wheel is found to need replacement,
the drive shaft must be replaced. No attempt should
be made to replace just the tone wheel. Refer to the
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE group in this
service manual for removal and installation.
If a rear tone wheel is found to need replacement,
the rear hub and bearing must be replaced. No
attempt should be made to replace just the tone
wheel. Refer to the SUSPENSION group in this ser-
vice manual for removal and installation.
If wheel speed sensor to tone wheel contact is evi-
dent, determine the cause and correct it before
replacing the wheel speed sensor or tone wheel.
Check the gap between the speed sensor head and
the tone wheel to ensure it is within specifications.
Refer to SPECIFICATIONS in this section of the ser-
vice manual for the minimum and maximum wheel
speed sensor to tone wheel clearance.
Excessive wheel speed sensor runout can cause
erratic wheel speed sensor signals. Refer to SPECI-
FICATIONS in this section of the service manual for
the maximum allowed tone wheel runout. If tone
wheel runout is excessive, determine if it is caused
by a defect in the driveshaft assembly or hub and
bearing. Replace as necessary.
Tone wheels are pressed onto their mounting sur-
faces and should not rotate independently from the
mounting surface. Replacement of the front drive-
shaft or rear hub and bearing is necessary.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts. Swelling indicates the
presence of petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If the fluid sep-
arates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If the brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush the brake system. Replace all the rubber
parts or components containing rubber coming into
contact with the brake fluid including: the master
cylinder; proportioning valves; caliper seals; wheel
cylinder seals; ABS hydraulic control unit; and all
hydraulic fluid hoses.
5 - 76 BRAKESPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt,
oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if nec-
essary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace,
if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS
Certain NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are
equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash
when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is
not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further
diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake
may not be functioning.(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc
splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present,
clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease
to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify
that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft
spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if
required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (clutch interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop
switch (Fig. 5). The switch assembly is located in the
clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 6), each
switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,turn the ignition key to the start posi-
tion. The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
Fig. 5 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
PLCLUTCH 6 - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

the ignition key to the start position. The engine
starter should crank. If the starter does not crank,
visually inspect the clutch pedal for obstructions
(floor mat, etc.). Also make sure the clutch pedal
blade contacts and fully
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals2&3with the interlock switchnot depressed (clutch pedal at rest). There should be
no continuity between the terminals (open circuit).
(5) Fully depress the clutch pedal to close the
switch at least 1.25 mm (0.050 in.). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
UPSTOP SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Start engine and operate speed control to main-
tain speed.
(3) Depress clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30 in.).
Speed control operation should terminate. If speed
control does not terminate, the upstop switch is
defective or the related wiring is shorted. Proceed to
the upstop switch electrical test.
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals1&2with the upstop switch
depressed (clutch pedal at rest). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(5) Depress the clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30
in.) check for continuity between terminals1&2.
There should be no continuity between the terminals
(open circuit).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
Fig. 6 Clutch/Brake Pedal Bracket Assembly
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 6 CLUTCHPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(8) Connect starter electrical harness and tighten
positive cable nut to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install bellhousing dust cover (Fig. 14).
(10) Install left engine-to-transaxle bending brace
(Fig. 14).(11) Install structural collar (Fig. 14) as follows:
(a) Position collar and install all bolts finger
tight.
(b) Tighten the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 3 N´m
(30 in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Tighten the collar-to-transaxle bolts to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Final torque the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install the right lateral bending brace and
tighten bolts to 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 15).
(13) Install both front axle driveshafts. Refer to
Group 3, Differential and Driveline for the correct
procedures.
(14) Fill transaxle with suitable amount of Mopart
Manual Transaxle Lubricant (PN 04874465).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Connect vehicle speed sensor connector (Fig.
13).
(17) Connect shift crossover and selector cables to
shift lever. Install cables to bracket and install
retaining clips (Fig. 12).
(18) Connect clutch cable to fork and secure to
transaxle (Fig. 11).
(19) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 11).
(20) Connect back-up lamp switch connector.
(21) Connect ground strap to transaxle upper
mount bracket.
(22) Install battery lower tray and battery, and
tighten battery hold down clamp to secure battery.
(23) Install the air cleaner/throttle body assy. as
follows:
(a) Connect the accelerator and speed control (if
equipped) cables to the air cleaner/throttle body
assy.
(b) Install assy into position, making sure the
air cleaner locating slot is engaged to the battery
bracket tab, and tighten fasteners to 14 N´m (120
in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Verify throttle body duct is fully seated to
intake manifold and tighten clamp to 5 N´m (40 in.
lbs.) torque.
(d) Connect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(e) Connect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(24) Connect the battery cables.
(25) Road test vehicle and inspect for leaks.
Fig. 16 Starter Motor Removal/InstallationÐTypical
1 ± BOLT
2 ± GROUND
3±STARTER
4 ± BOLT
Fig. 17 Transaxle Upper Mount Thru-BoltÐTypical
1 ± MOUNT BRACKET
2 ± BOLT
3 ± MOUNT
PLCLUTCH 6 - 11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

protection. MopartAntifreeze or the equivalent is
recommended for best engine cooling without corro-
sion. When mixed only to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh
properly mixed solution.
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM
This system works in conjunction with the radiator
pressure cap to utilize thermal expansion and con-
traction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. The system provides space for expansion
and contraction. Also, the system provides a conve-
nient and safe method for checking and adjusting the
coolant level at atmospheric pressure without remov-
ing the pressure cap. It also provides some reserve
coolant to compensate for minor leaks and evapora-
tion or boiling losses. All vehicles are equipped with
this system (Fig. 2).
Refer to Coolant Level Check, Deaeration, and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service.
ENGINE THERMOSTAT
The engine thermostat is located on the front of
the engine (radiator side) in the thermostat housing/
engine outlet connector. The thermostat has an air
bleed (vent) located in the flange and a O-ring for
sealing incorporate on it. There is a relief in the ther-
mostat housing/outlet connector for the O-ring.
The engine thermostat is a wax pellet driven,
reverse poppet choke type. It is designed to provide
the fastest warm up possible by preventing leakage
through it and to guarantee a minimum engine oper-
ating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC (192 to 199ÉF). Also,
the thermostat will automatically reach wide open, to
accommodate unrestricted flow to the radiator astemperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan,
and ambient temperatureÐnot the thermostat.
A thermostats primary purpose is to maintain
engine temperature in a range that will provide sat-
isfactory engine performance and emission levels
under all expected driving conditions. It also provides
hot water (coolant) for heater performance. It does
this by transferring heat from engine metal and
automatic transmission oil cooler (if equipped) to
coolant, moving this heated coolant to the heater core
and radiator, and then transferring this heat to the
ambient air.
RADIATOR
The radiator is a down-flow type (vertical tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength,
as well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep
the engine coolant within operating temperatures.
The radiator functions as a heat exchanger, using
air flow across the exterior of the radiator tubes. This
heat is then transferred from the coolant and into
the passing air.
The radiator has an aluminum core with plastic
tanks. Although stronger than brass, plastic tanks
are subject to damage by impact. Always handle radi-
ator with care.
RADIATOR COOLING FAN MODULE
The radiator cooling fan is a single speed electric
motor driven fan. The fan module includes an electric
motor, fan blade, and a support shroud that is
attached to the radiator (Fig. 3).
Fig. 2 Coolant Recovery System
1 ± RECOVERY HOSE
2 ± ENGINE COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 ± PRESSURE CAP
Fig. 3 Radiator Fan
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

(3) Remove thermostat/engine outlet connector
bolts (Fig. 22).
(4) Remove thermostat and O-ring assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all sealing surfaces.
(2) Place the new thermostat assembly into the
thermostat housing/outlet connector. Align vent with
notch in cylinder head.
(3) Install thermostat housing/outlet connector
onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N´m (110
in. lbs.).
(4) Install upper radiator hose.
(5) Connect the coolant recovery/reserve system
hose.
(6) Refill cooling system. Refer to procedure in this
section.
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure in
this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator.
(4) Disconnect and cap automatic transmission
hoses, if equipped.(5) Disconnect cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(6) Remove cooling fan module retaining screws,
located on the top of the shroud (Fig. 23). Lift shroud
up and out of bottom shroud attachment clips sepa-
rating shroud from radiator.
(7) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(8) Remove upper radiator isolator bracket mount-
ing screws (Fig. 24). Disconnect the engine block
heater wire, if equipped.
(9) Remove the air conditioning condenser attach-
ing screws located at the front of the radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), then lean condenser forward.
NOTE: It is not necessary to discharge the air con-
ditioning system to remove the radiator.
Fig. 22 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector
1 ± PRESSURE CAP
2 ± THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ENGINE OUTLET CONNECTOR
3 ± THERMOSTAT
4 ± O-RING
5 ± VENT FACING UP
Fig. 23 Fan Module Mounting
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 24 Radiator Mounting
1 ± UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
2 ± UPPER RADIATOR MOUNTS
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)