1993 FORD MONDEO low oil pressure

To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark
plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work
on one spark plug at a time.
4If the marks on the original-equipment
spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark
the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder
the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing
belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the
plugs by gripping the rubber boot sealing thecylinder head cover opening, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
5It is advisable to soak up any water in the
spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove
any dirt from them using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
water from dropping into the cylinders. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully
1•24Every 30 000 miles
Specifications
Engine
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C148
Cooling system
Coolant protection at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:
Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -25°C (-13°F)
Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -30°C (-22°F)
Coolant specific gravity at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio and
15°C/59°F - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.061
Fuel system
Idle speed - nominal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 830 ± 50 rpm*
Air filter element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U618
Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L218
* Note: Given for reference only - not adjustable.
Ignition system
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Spark plugs:*
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads:
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms
* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to
their manufacturer’s recommendations
Braking system
Note: No minimum lining thicknesses are given by Ford - the following is given as a general recommendation. If the pad wear warning light
comes on before the front brake pad linings reach the minimum thickness, the pads should nevertheless be renewed immediately.
Minimum front or rear brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Suspension and steering
Tyre pressures (cold):Front Rear
Normally laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (31 psi) 2.1 bars (31 psi)
Fully laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 bars (35 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)
Note: Normally laden means up to 3 persons. For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary.
Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.
Wiper blades
Windscreen:
Driver’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X 5303 (and SP 01 spoiler)
Passenger’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X 5103
Tailgate:
Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X 5103
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 10 4 to 7
Auxiliary drivebelt automatic tensioner Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Radiator undershield screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
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1•26Every 60 000 miles
Every 60 000 miles
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke,
or allow open flames or bare light bulbs,
near the work area. Also, do not work in a
garage if a gas appliance with a pilot light is
present. While performing any work on the
fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have
a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse
it off immediately with soap and water.
1The fuel filter is located at the front right-
hand corner of the fuel tank, just forward of
the vehicle’s right-hand rear jacking point. The
filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and
other foreign matter out of the fuel system,
and so must be renewed at regular intervals,or whenever you have reason to suspect that
it may be clogged. It is always unpleasant
working under a vehicle - pressure-washing or
hosing clean the underbody in the filter’s
vicinity will make working conditions more
tolerable, and will reduce the risk of getting
dirt into the fuel system.
2Relieve any residual pressure in the system
by removing the fuel pump fuse (No 14) and
starting the engine; allow the engine to idle until
it dies. Turn the engine over once or twice on
the starter, to ensure that all pressure is
released, then switch off the ignition.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the pressure
necessary for the engine to run -
remember that fuel will still be present in
the system components, and take
precautions before disconnecting them.
3Noting the comments made in Section 1 of
Chapter 5, disconnect the battery earth terminal.
4Jack up the rear right-hand side of the
vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand.
5Using rag to soak up any spilt fuel, release
the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions from the
filter, by squeezing together the protruding
locking lugs on each union, and carefully
pulling the union off the filter stub (seeillustration). Where the unions are colour-
coded, the feed and outlet pipes cannot be
confused; where both unions are the same
colour, note carefully which pipe is connected
to which filter stub, and ensure that they are
correctly reconnected on refitting.
6Noting the arrows and/or other markings on
the filter showing the direction of fuel flow
(towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp
screw and withdraw the filter. Note that the
filter will still contain fuel; care should be
taken, to avoid spillage and to minimise the
risk of fire.
7On installation, slide the filter into its clamp
so that the arrow marked on it faces the
correct way, then slide each pipe union on to
its (correct) respective filter stub, and press it
down until the locking lugs click into their
groove (see illustrations). Tighten the clamp
screw carefully, until the filter is just prevented
from moving; do not overtighten the clamp
screw, or the filter casing may be crushed.
8Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the
battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition
on and off five times, to pressurise the
system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage
around the filter unions before lowering the
vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.
33 Fuel filter renewal
32 Timing belt renewal
33.5 Squeeze together fuel filter pipe union
locking lugs, then pull pipes off filter stubs -
ensure pipes are correctly reconnected33.7A When installing the new filter,
ensure the arrow showing direction of fuel
flow points towards the engine . . .
Every 3 years
The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by syphoning,and allowance should be made for the old
fluid to be removed from the circuit when
bleeding a section of the circuit.
34 Brake fluid renewal
31.22 Measure the resistance of the spark
plug leads - if any exceeds the specified
maximum value, renew all the leads
the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.
Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks
and other damage. Do not bend the lead
sharply, because the conductor might break.
22Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil
by pressing together the plastic retaining
catches and pulling the end fitting off the coil
terminal. Check for corrosion and for a tight
fit. If a meter with the correct measuring range
is available, measure the resistance of the
disconnected lead from its coil connector to
its spark plug connector (see illustration). If
the resistance recorded for any of the leads
exceeds the value specified, all the leadsshould be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to
the coil, noting that each coil terminal is
marked with its respective cylinder number,
so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads
and upsetting the firing order.
23Inspect the remaining plug leads, ensuring
that each is securely fastened both ends when
the check is complete. If any sign of arcing,
severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or
other damage is noticed, obtain new spark
plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new
spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and
refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in
the firing order.
33.7B . . . secure pipe unions as described -
do not overtighten clamp screw (arrowed)
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end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adaptors, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage
and, on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified.
General description - lubrication
system
Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean
oil entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by
the main engine cooling system. From the
filter, the oil is pumped into a main gallery in
the cylinder block/crankcase, from where it is
distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings)
and cylinder head (see illustration).
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil
via internal drillings in the crankshaft. On
some versions of the engine, each piston
crown is cooled by a spray of oil directed at
its underside by a jet. These jets are fed by
passages off the crankshaft oil supply
galleries, with spring-loaded valves to ensure
that the jets open only when there is sufficient
pressure to guarantee a good oil supply to
the rest of the engine components; where the
jets are not fitted, separate blanking plugs are
provided, so that the passages are sealed,
but can be cleaned at overhaul (see
illustration).
2A•4 In-car engine repair procedures
1.3B Lateral cross-section through engine
1 Exhaust valve
2 Piston
3 Oil baffle4 Oil strainer and pick-up
pipe
5 Spark plug6 Fuel injector
7 Piston-cooling oil jets
(where fitted)
1.10 Engine lubrication system - inset showing longitudinal cross-section
1 Main oil gallery
2 From oil filter
3 Oil pump
4 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve
5 Cylinder head oil gallery6 Cylinder head oil supply
7 Oil return
8 Piston-cooling oil spray (where fitted)
9 Oil filter - oil cooler not shown here1.11 Piston-cooling oil jet details
1 Oil jets (when fitted)
2 Oil flow - only when valve opens at set
pressure
3 Oil spray
4 Blanking plug (when fitted)
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The cylinder head is provided with two oil
galleries, one on the inlet side and one on the
exhaust, to ensure constant oil supply to the
camshaft bearings and hydraulic tappets. A
retaining valve (inserted into the cylinder
head’s top surface, in the middle, on the inlet
side) prevents these galleries from being
drained when the engine is switched off. The
valve incorporates a ventilation hole in its
upper end, to allow air bubbles to escape
from the system when the engine is restarted.
While the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings and the hydraulic tappets receive a
pressurised supply, the camshaft lobes and
valves are lubricated by splash, as are all
other engine components.
Valve clearances - general
It is necessary for a clearance to exist
between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism, to allow for the
expansion of the various components as the
engine reaches normal operating
temperature.
On most older engine designs, this meant
that the valve clearances (also known as
“tappet” clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were
allowed to be too slack, the engine would be
very noisy, its power output would suffer, and
its fuel consumption would increase. If the
clearances were allowed to be too tight, the
engine’s power output would be reduced,
and the valves and their seats could be
severely damaged.
The engines covered in this manual,
however, employ hydraulic tappets which use
the lubricating system’s oil pressure
automatically to take up the clearance
between each camshaft lobe and its
respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no
need for regular checking and adjustment of
the valve clearances, but it is essential that
onlygood-quality oil of the recommended
viscosity and specification is used in the
engine, and that this oil is always changed at
the recommended intervals. If this advice is
not followed, the oilways and tappets may
become clogged with particles of dirt, or
deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that
the system cannot work properly; ultimately,
one or more of the tappets may fail, and
expensive repairs may be required.
On starting the engine from cold, there will
be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets; the valve components, therefore,
may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so,
and then quieten. This is a normal state of
affairs, and is nothing to worry about,
provided that all tappets quieten quickly and
stay quiet.
After the vehicle has been standing for
several days, the valve components may
“rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the
oil will have drained away from the engine’s
top end components and bearing surfaces.
While this is only to be expected, care mustbe taken not to damage the engine under
these circumstances - avoid high speed
running until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise
ceases. Do not run the engine at more than
3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged
with oil and the noise has ceased.
If the valve components are thought to be
noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top
end after the engine has warmed up to
normal operating temperature, take the
vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice.
Depending on the mileage covered and the
usage to which each vehicle has been put,
some vehicles may be noisier than others;
only a good mechanic experienced in these
engines can tell if the noise level is typical for
the vehicle’s mileage, or if a genuine fault
exists. If any tappet’s operation is faulty, it
must be renewed (Section 13).
The following major repair operations can
be accomplished without removing the
engine from the vehicle. However, owners
should note that any operation involving the
removal of the sump requires careful
forethought, depending on the level of skill
and the tools and facilities available; refer to
the relevant text for details.
(a) Compression pressure - testing.
(b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
(c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
(d) Timing belt - renewal.
(e) Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys
- removal and refitting.
(f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
(g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets -
removal and refitting.
(h) Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and
refitting.
(i) Cylinder head and pistons -
decarbonising.
(j) Sump - removal and refitting.
(k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
(l) Oil pump - removal and refitting.
(m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies -
removal and refitting (but see note below).
(n) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
(o) Engine/transmission mountings - removal
and refitting.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt
out of the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, it
may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint; special covers are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for component/
gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can
generally be made with the engine in the
vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold
gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place.
Exterior components such as the intake
and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil
pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.
Since the cylinder head can be removed
without lifting out the engine, camshaft and
valve component servicing can also be
accomplished with the engine in the vehicle,
as can renewal of the timing belt and toothed
pulleys.
In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine
in the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved, and because of the
amount of preliminary dismantling work
required - these operations are therefore
covered in Part B of this Chapter.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The aid of an assistant will be
required also.
3Disable the ignition system by unplugging
the ignition coil’s electrical connector, and
remove fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump.
4Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
7At the time of writing, no compression
3 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2 Repair operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•5
2A
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specifications were available from Ford, but a
typical reading would be in excess of 12 bars.
All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; any difference greater than 10%
indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the
compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine; low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn
piston rings. A low compression reading on the
first stroke, which does not build up during
successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a
blown head gasket (a cracked head could also
be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
8If the pressure in any cylinder is
considerably lower than the others, introduce
a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder
through its spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
9If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
10A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
11If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faulty
hydraulic tappet could be the cause.
12If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the
cylinder head should be removed and
decarbonised.
13On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs, then reconnect the ignition system and
fuel pump.
General
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in its travel up-and-down its cylinder bore
that each piston reaches as the crankshaftrotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top of the compression stroke and
again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the
purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to
the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the
top of its compression stroke.
2It is useful for several servicing procedures
to be able to position the engine at TDC.
3No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right-
hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right-
and left-hand are always quoted as seen from
the driver’s seat). Note that the crankshaft
rotates clockwise when viewed from the
right-hand side of the vehicle.
Locating TDC
4Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1).
5Disconnect both battery leads - see
Chapter 5, Section 1 - unless the starter
motor is to be used to turn the engine.
6Apply the handbrake and ensure that the
transmission is in neutral, then jack up the
front right-hand side of the vehicle and
support on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel.
7Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
8It is best to rotate the crankshaft using a
spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt;
however, it is possible also to use the starter
motor (switched on either by an assistant
using the ignition key, or by using a remote
starter switch) to bring the engine close to
TDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starter
is used, be sure to disconnect the battery
leads immediately it is no longer required.
9Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation
(clockwise, seen from the right-hand side of the
vehicle) the first pair of notches are irrelevant to
the vehicles covered in this manual, while the
second pair indicate TDC when aligned with
the rear edge of the raised mark on the sump.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the
second pair of notches align with the edge of
the sump mark; use a straight edge extended
out from the sump if greater accuracy is
required (see illustrations).10Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC,
one of them on the compression stroke.
Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder
exhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the
vehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1
cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the
lobe is pointing horizontally forwards, rotate
the crankshaft one full turn (360°) clockwise
until the pulley notches align again, and the
lobe is pointing to the rear and slightly down.
No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the
compression stroke.
11Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned
at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for
any of the other cylinders can then be located
by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
12An alternative method of locating TDC is
to remove the cylinder head cover (see
Section 5) and to rotate the crankshaft
(clockwise, as described in paragraph 8
above) until the inlet valves for the cylinder
concerned have opened and just closed
again. Insert a length of wooden dowel
(approximately 150 mm/6 in long) or similar
into the spark plug hole until it rests on the
piston crown, and slowly further rotate the
crankshaft (taking care not to allow the dowel
to be trapped in the cylinder) until the dowel
stops rising - the piston is now at the top of
its compression stroke, and the dowel can be
removed.
13There is a “dead” area around TDC (as
the piston stops rising, pauses and then
begins to descend) which makes difficult the
exact location of TDC by this method; if
accuracy is required, either establish carefully
the exact mid-point of the dead area, or refer
to the timing marks (paragraph 9 above).
1Unplug the two electrical connectors and
disconnect the vacuum hose (where fitted),
then remove the air cleaner assembly cover
with the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
5 Cylinder head cover-
removal and refitting
4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston - locating
2A•6 In-car engine repair procedures
4.9A Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .4.9B . . . using a straight edge extended
out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required5.4 Disconnecting crankcase breather
hose from cylinder head cover union
procarmanuals.com

throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4.
Where fitted, disconnect also the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
3Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 9).
4Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration).
5Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
6Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
7Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that
the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
8On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see
illustration).
9Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start all
bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
10Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
11Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each
is numbered, and can also be identified by
the numbering on its respective coil terminal.
12Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air cleaner assembly cover with
the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke,
or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in
or near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas appliance
(such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is
installed. If you spill petrol on your skin,
rinse it off immediately. Have a fire
extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy,
and know how to use it.
Removal
1Park the vehicle on firm, level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly, and slacken the
nuts securing the right-hand front roadwheel.
2Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
4Unplugging the two electrical connectors
and disconnecting the vacuum hose (where
fitted), remove the air cleaner assembly cover
with the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -
where fitted, disconnect also the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
6Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union.
7Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield; unclip the coolant hose
to allow it to be withdrawn. Slacken the
sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the
manifold, remove the two screws securing
the pipe to the ignition coil bracket, then
unscrew the sleeve nut securing the pipe to
the EGR valve - see Chapter 6 for full details if
required.
8Remove the two screws securing the wiring
“rail” to the top of the manifold - this is simply
so that it can be moved as required to reach
the manifold bolts. Unplug their electrical
connectors to disconnect the camshaft
position sensor and the coolant temperature
sensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignition
coil bracket, and secure it to the manifold.
9Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the wiring of themanifold components from the engine wiring
loom.
10Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
(b) One from the union on the manifold’s left-
hand end.
(c) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
(d) One from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR) valve.
11Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
12Unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe and the earth lead from the cylinder
head rear support plate/engine lifting eye,
then unscrew the bolt securing the support
plate/lifting eye to the alternator mounting
bracket.
13Unscrew the six nuts securing the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting
bracket, then withdraw the bracket.
14Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5).
15Unbolt the alternator mounting bracket
from the rear of the cylinder block and
withdraw it, together with the cylinder head
rear support plate/engine lifting eye (see
illustration).
6 Inlet manifold -
removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•7
2A
5.8 Ensure gasket is located correctly in
cover groove5.6 Removing cylinder head cover
5.9 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each
cover bolt spacer, as shown6.15 Alternator mounting bracket must be
unbolted from rear of cylinder block to
permit access to inlet manifold nut
procarmanuals.com

9Remove the nuts and detach the manifold
and gasket (see illustration). Take care not
to damage vulnerable components such as
the EGR pipe as the manifold assembly is
manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.
When removing the manifold with the engine
in the vehicle, additional clearance can be
obtained by unscrewing the studs from the
cylinder head; a female Torx-type socket will
be required (see illustration).
10Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, to
carefully-cleaned components (see below).
Do notattempt to re-use the original gasket.
Inspection
11Use a scraper to remove all traces of old
gasket material and carbon deposits from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If
the gasket was leaking, have the manifold
checked for warpage at an automotive
machine shop, and have it resurfaced if
necessary.
Caution: When scraping, be very
careful not to gouge or scratch
the delicate aluminium alloy
cylinder head.
12Provided both mating surfaces are clean
and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to
ensure the joint is gas-tight. Do notuse any
kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the
catalytic converter.
13Note that the downpipe is secured to the
manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring,
spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On
refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on thebolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will
then suffice to make a leakproof joint (see
illustrations).
14Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak
- the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and
the springs if a leak is found. The bolts
themselves are secured by spring clips to the
manifold, and can be renewed easily if
damaged (see illustration).
Refitting
15Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder
head studs, and fit a new plastic guide
sleeve to the stud nearest to the
thermostat housing, so that the manifold
will be correctly located (see illustration).
Do notrefit the manifold without this
sleeve.
(b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten the
mounting nuts.
(c) Working from the centre out, and in three
or four equal steps, tighten the nuts to the
torque wrench setting given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter.
(d) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to
the specified torque wrench settings.
(e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(f) Run the engine, and check for exhaust
leaks. Check the coolant level when fully
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.1Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either
remove the drivebelt completely, or just
secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,
depending on the work to be carried out (see
Chapter 1).
2If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the
timing marks align (see Section 4).
3The crankshaft must now be locked to
prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is
unscrewed. Proceed as follows:
(a) If the engine/transmission is still installed
in the vehicle:
(1) If the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, select top gear, and have an
assistant apply the brakes hard.
(2) If the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, unbolt the small metal cover
plate from the sump, and use a large
screwdriver or similar to lock the
driveplate ring gear teeth while an
assistant slackens the pulley bolt; take
care not to damage the teeth or the
surrounding castings when using this
method.
(b) If the engine/transmission has been
removed but not yet separated:
(1) If the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, remove the starter motor
(see Chapter 5) and lock the flywheel
8 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•9
2A
7.13B Renew exhaust system downpipe-
to-manifold gasket to prevent leaks7.14 Release spring clip to extract
securing bolt from manifold, when required7.15 Fit plastic guide sleeve to stud
arrowed when refitting exhaust manifold
7.9A Unscrew nuts (arrowed) to remove
exhaust manifold . . .
7.9B . . . studs can be unscrewed also, if
required, to provide additional working
space7.13A Showing exhaust downpipe-to-
manifold securing bolts - note coil spring,
and shoulder on bolt
procarmanuals.com

related components, to remove all traces of
oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.
2If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the
toothed pulley, taking care not to twist it too
sharply; use the fingers only to handle the
belt. Do notrotate the crankshaft until the
timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and
secure it so that it is clear of the working area
and cannot slip off the remaining toothed
pulley.
3Unfasten the pulley bolt and withdraw the
pulley (see Section 11).
4Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing
cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal.
Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
5To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt
(10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a
washer, to draw the seal into place when the
camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a
substitute can be made using a suitable
socket (see illustration). Grease the seal lips
and periphery to ease installation, and draw
the seal into place until it is flush with the
housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the
bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the
cap bolts as described in Section 13.
6For most owners, the simplest answer will
be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it on to
the camshaft (until it is flush with thehousing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap,
using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as
described in Section 13 (see illustration).
Take care to ensure that the seal remains
absolutely square in its housing, and is not
distorted as the cap is tightened down.
7Refit the pulley to the camshaft, tightening
the retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timing
belt back onto the pulley (refer to para-
graphs 18 and 21 of Section 10) and tighten
the bolt securely.
8The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 22
to 27 of Section 10.
Removal
1Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 14.
2Either remove the timing belt completely
(Section 10, paragraphs 15 and 16) or slip it
off the camshaft toothed pulleys, taking care
not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only
to handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure
it so that it is clear of the working area. Do not
rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is
refitted.3Unfasten the pulley bolts as described in
Section 10, paragraphs 18 and 21, and
withdraw the pulleys; while both are the same
and could be interchanged, it is good working
practice to mark them so that each is refitted
only to its original location (see illustration).
4Working in the sequence shown, slacken
progressively, by half a turn at a time, the
camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration).
Work only as described, to release gradually
and evenly the pressure of the valve springs
on the caps.
5Withdraw the caps, noting their markings
and the presence of the locating dowels, then
remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil
seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by
the reference lobe for the camshaft position
sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark
the camshafts (see illustrations).
6Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and
number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker,
withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert
it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its
respective container, which should then be
filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations).
Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or
the rate of wear will be much increased. Do
not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a
long time to refill on restarting the engine,
resulting in incorrect valve clearances.
Inspection
7With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets
removed, check each for signs of obvious
13 Camshafts and hydraulic
tappets - removal,
inspection and refitting
2A•14 In-car engine repair procedures
12.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt
to install camshaft oil seal12.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted
when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted13.3 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened
13.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening
sequence
Note:View from front of vehicle, showing
bearing cap numbers
13.5A Note locating dowels when
removing camshaft bearing caps13.5B Inlet camshaft has lobe for
camshaft position sensor
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