1993 FORD MONDEO jump start terminals

General
1A routine preventive maintenance
programme for the battery in your vehicle is
the only way to ensure quick and reliable
starts. Before performing any battery
maintenance, make sure that you have the
proper equipment necessary to work safely
around the battery (see illustration).
2There are also several precautions that
should be taken whenever battery
maintenance is performed. Before servicing
the battery, always turn the engine and all
accessories off, and disconnect the lead from
the negative terminal of the battery - see
Chapter 5, Section 1.
3The battery produces hydrogen gas, which
is both flammable and explosive. Never create
a spark, smoke, or light a match around the
battery. Always charge the battery in a well-
ventilated area.
4Electrolyte contains poisonous and
corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get
in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes.
Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and lead clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic
cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s
not torn or damaged. It should completelycover the terminal. Look for any corroded or
loose connections, cracks in the case or
cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Also check
the entire length of each lead for cracks and
frayed conductors.
6If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits (see illustration)is evident,
particularly around the terminals, the battery
should be removed for cleaning. Slacken the
lead clamp nuts with a spanner, being careful
to remove the negative (earth) lead first, and
slide them off the terminals (see illustration).
Then unscrew the hold-down clamp nuts,
remove the clamp, and lift the battery from the
engine compartment.
7Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a
soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a
solution of warm water and baking soda.
Wash the terminals and the top of the battery
case with the same solution, but make sure
that the solution doesn’t get into the battery.
When cleaning the leads, terminals and
battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber
gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in
contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old
clothes too - even when diluted, sulphuric
acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in
them. If the terminals have been extensively
corroded, clean them up with a terminal
cleaner (see illustrations). Thoroughly wash
all cleaned areas with plain water.
8Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are
tight (see illustration). If the battery isremoved from the tray, make sure no parts
remain in the bottom of the tray when the
battery is refitted. When refitting the
hold-down clamp nuts, do not overtighten
them.
9Information on removing and installing the
battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information
on jump starting can be found at the front of
this manual. For more detailed battery
checking procedures, refer to the Haynes
Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.
Cleaning
10Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a
zinc-based primer, then painted.
Charging
Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do not
smoke, or allow open flames, near a
charging or a recently-charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the
charger.
12Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in winter, when the
battery must work harder to start the engine,
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.
13It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest, and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher-
1•12
9.6A Battery terminal corrosion usually
appears as light, fluffy powder9.6B Removing a lead from the battery
terminal - always remove the earth lead
first, and connect it last!9.7A When cleaning the lead clamps, all
corrosion must be removed - the inside of
the clamp is tapered to match the terminal,
so don’t remove too much material
9.7B Regardless of the method used to
clean the terminals, a clean, shiny surface
should result9.8 Make sure the battery hold-down nuts
(arrowed) are tight
Every 10 000 miles
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sender’s electrical connector, and use a
jumper wire to connect the white/red wire to a
clean earth point (bare metal) on the engine.
Switch on the ignition without starting the
engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew
the sender.
5If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Removal
6Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chap-
ter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8Disconnect the expansion tank coolant
hose and the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing’s water outlet, then
disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat.
9Unplug the electrical connector from the
sender (see illustration).
10Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.
Refitting
11Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sender’s threads.
Screw in the sender and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting, and plug in
its electrical connector.
12Reconnect the hoses and refit the
resonator, top-up the cooling system (see
Chapter 1) and run the engine. Check for
leaks and proper gauge operation.
Coolant temperature sensor
Testing
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
14Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
15Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor (see illustration).
16Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. If the
sensor’s temperature is varied - by removing
it (see below) and placing it in a freezer for a
while, or by warming it gently - its resistance
should alter accordingly.
17If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18On completion, plug in the connector and
refit the resonator.
Removal
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
20Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
21With the engine completely cool, remove
the expansion tank filler cap to release any
pressure, then refit the cap. Provided you
work swiftly and plug the opening as soon as
the sensor is unscrewed, coolant loss will thus
be minimised; this will avoid the draining of
the complete cooling system which would
otherwise be necessary (see Chapter 1).
22Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor.
23Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it. If the
cooling system has not been drained, plug the
opening as quickly as possible.
Refitting
24Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sensor’s threads.
Remove the material used to plug the sensor
hole (where applicable), and quickly install the
sensor to prevent coolant loss. Tighten the
sensor to the specified torque wrench setting,
and plug in its electrical connector.
25Refit the resonator, top-up the cooling
system (see Chapter 1) and run the engine,
checking for leaks.
Coolant low level switch
Testing
26The switch is a reed-type unit mounted in
the bottom of the cooling system expansion
tank, activated by a magnetic float. If the
coolant level falls to the “MIN” level or less,
the appropriate bulb lights in the warning
display.
27If the bulb fails to light during the 5-
second bulb test, check the bulb, and renew if
necessary as described in Chapter 12.
28To check the switch itself, unplug its
electrical connector, and use an ohmmeter to
measure the resistance across the switchterminals. With the float up, a resistance of
90 ohms should be measured; when it is
down, the resistance should increase to
approximately 150 kilohms.
29If the results obtained from the check are
significantly different from those expected,
the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
30If the switch and bulb are proven to be
sound, the fault must be in the wiring or in the
auxiliary warning control assembly (see
Chapter 12).
Removal
31Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
32Remove the expansion tank (see Sec-
tion 7).
33Unplug the switch electrical connector.
34Release the switch by twisting its retainer
anti-clockwise, then withdraw it.
Refitting
35Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Refill the cooling system (see
Chapter 1). Start the engine, and check for
coolant leaks when it is fully warmed-up.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Radiator
Removal
Note:If leakage is the reason for removing the
radiator, bear in mind that minor leaks can
often be cured using a radiator sealant with
the radiator in situ.
1Remove the radiator fan and shroud
assembly (see Section 5).
2Disconnect the bottom hose from the
radiator.
3If the vehicle has automatic transmission,
disconnect the fluid cooler lines, and plug the
lines and fittings.
4If the vehicle has air conditioning, unscrew
the condenser mounting nuts or bolts, detach
the condenser from the radiator, and tie it to
the engine compartment front crossmember.
7 Radiator and expansion tank -
removal, inspection and refitting
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
6.9 Location (arrowed) of coolant
temperature gauge sender6.15 Location (arrowed) of coolant
temperature sensor
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5If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Note:See also the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1.
1Periodically inspect the entire length of
each battery lead for damage, cracked or
burned insulation, and corrosion. Poor battery
lead connections can cause starting problems
and decreased engine performance.
2Check the lead-to-terminal connections at
the ends of the leads for cracks, loose wire
strands and corrosion. The presence of white,
fluffy deposits under the insulation at the lead
terminal connection is a sign that the lead is
corroded and should be renewed. Check the
terminals for distortion, missing clamp bolts,
and corrosion.
3When removing the leads, always
disconnect the negative lead first, and
reconnect it last (see Section 1). Even if only
the positive lead is being renewed, be sure to
disconnect the negative lead from the battery
first (see Chapter 1 for further information
regarding battery lead removal).
4Disconnect the old leads from the battery,
then trace each of them to their opposite
ends, and detach them from the starter
solenoid and earth terminals. Note the routing
of each lead, to ensure correct installation.
5If you are renewing either or both of the old
leads, take them with you when buying new
leads. It is vitally important that you replace
the leads with identical parts. Leads have
characteristics that make them easy to
identify: positive leads are usually red, larger
in cross-section, and have a larger-diameter
battery post clamp; earth leads are usually
black, smaller in cross-section and have a
slightly smaller-diameter clamp for the
negative post.
6Clean the threads of the solenoid or earth
connection with a wire brush to remove rust
and corrosion.
7Attach the lead to the solenoid or earth
connection, and tighten the mounting nut/bolt
securely.
8Before connecting a new lead to thebattery, make sure that it reaches the battery
post without having to be stretched.
9Connect the positive lead first, followed by
the negative lead.
General
The ignition system includes the ignition
switch, the battery, the crankshaft speed/
position sensor, the coil, the primary (low
tension/LT) and secondary (high tension/HT)
wiring circuits, and the spark plugs. On models
with automatic transmission, a separate
ignition module is also fitted, its functions
being incorporated in the ECU on models with
manual transmission. The ignition system is
controlled by the engine management
system’s Electronic Control Unit (ECU). Using
data provided by information sensors which
monitor various engine functions (such as
engine speed and piston position, intake air
mass and temperature, engine coolant
temperature, etc.), the ECU ensures a
perfectly-timed spark under all conditions (see
Chapter 6). Note:The ignition timing is under
the full control of the ECU, and cannot be
adjusted - see Section 8 for further details.
Precautions
When working on the ignition system, take
the following precautions:
(a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for more
than 10 seconds if the engine will not start.
(b) If a separate tachometer is ever required
for servicing work, consult a dealer
service department before buying a
tachometer for use with this vehicle -
some tachometers may be incompatible
with this ignition system - and always
connect it in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
(c) Never connect the ignition coil terminals
to earth. This could result in damage to
the coil and/or the ECU or ignition module
(whichever is fitted).
(d) Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running.
(e) Make sure that the ignition module (where
fitted) is properly earthed.
(f) Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the next Section concerning HT voltage.
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the ignition
system, extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is performed
involving ignition components. This not
only includes the ignition module/ECU, coil
and spark plug (HT) leads, but related
components such as electrical connectors,
tachometer and other test equipment also.Note: This is an initial check of the “ignition
part” of the main engine management system,
to be carried out as part of the preliminary
checks of the complete engine management
system (see Chapter 6).
1If the engine turns over but won’t start,
disconnect the (HT) lead from any spark plug,
and attach it to a calibrated tester (available at
most automotive accessory shops). Connect
the clip on the tester to a good earth - a bolt
or metal bracket on the engine. If you’re
unable to obtain a calibrated ignition tester,
have the check carried out by a Ford dealer
service department or similar. Any other form
of testing (such as jumping a spark from the
end of an HT lead to earth) is not
recommended, because of the risk of
personal injury, or of damage to the
ECU/ignition module (see notes above and in
Section 4).
2Crank the engine and watch the end of the
tester to see if bright blue, well-defined sparks
occur.
3If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is
reaching the plug to fire it. Repeat the check
at the remaining plugs, to ensure that all leads
are sound and that the coil is serviceable.
However, the plugs themselves may be fouled
or faulty, so remove and check them as
described in Chapter 1.
4If no sparks or intermittent sparks occur,
the spark plug lead(s) may be defective -
check them as described in Chapter 1.
5If there’s still no spark, check the coil’s
electrical connector, to make sure it’s clean
and tight. Check for full battery voltage to the
coil at the connector’s centre terminal. The
coil is earthed through the ECU - do not
attempt to check this. Check the coil itself
(see Section 6). Make any necessary repairs,
then repeat the check again.
6The remainder of the system checks should
be left to a dealer service department or other
qualified repair facility, as there is a chance
that the ECU may be damaged if tests are not
performed properly.
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the ignition
system, extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is performed
involving ignition components. This not
only includes the ignition module/ECU, coil
and spark plug (HT) leads, but related
components such as electrical connectors,
tachometer and other test equipment also.
Check
1Having checked that full battery voltage is
available at the centre terminal of the coil’s
electrical connector (see Section 5),
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead -
see Section 1.
2Unplug the coil’s electrical connector, if not
already disconnected.
6 Ignition coil -
removal and refitting
5 Ignition system - testing
4 Ignition system - general
information and precautions
3 Battery leads -
check and renewal
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5
Apply a light coat of battery
terminal corrosion inhibitor,
or petroleum jelly, to the
threads, to prevent future
corrosion.
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starter motor must be overhauled or renewed.
(Other possibilities are that the starter motor
mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth
are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring
gear.)
4If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to
click when the switch is actuated, the battery
is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the
solenoid itself is defective.
6To check the solenoid, connect a fused
jumper lead between the battery (+) and the
ignition switch terminal (the small terminal) on
the solenoid. If the starter motor now
operates, the solenoid is OK, and the problem
is in the ignition switch, selector lever position
sensor (automatic transmission) or in the
wiring.
7If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove it (see Section 16). The brushes and
commutator may be checked (see Sec-
tion 17), but if the fault persists, the motor
should be renewed, or taken to an auto-
electrician for testing and repair.
8If the starter motor cranks the engine at anabnormally-slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged, and that all terminal
connections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached, then switch off and
disable the ignition system by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector; remove
fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump.
10Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the
battery positive terminal, and connect the
negative lead to the negative terminal.
11Crank the engine, and take the voltmeter
readings as soon as a steady figure is
indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to
turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A
reading of 10.5 volts or more, with the starter
motor turning at normal cranking speed, is
normal. If the reading is 10.5 volts or more but
the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid
contacts are burned, the motor is faulty, or
there is a bad connection. If the reading is less
than 10.5 volts and the cranking speed is
slow, the starter motor is faulty or there is a
problem with the battery.1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
2Remove the air mass meter and resonator -
refer to Chapter 4.
3Unscrew the upper two starter motor
mounting bolts, noting that one also secures
an engine/transmission earth lead (see
illustration).
4Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
Warning: Do not place any part of
your body under a vehicle when
it’s supported only by a jack!
5Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the wiring
from the starter/solenoid terminals.
6Remove the remaining starter motor
mounting bolt (see illustration). Remove the
starter.
7Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque wrench settings.
Note:This procedure assumes that
replacement brushes of the correct type have
been obtained - at the time of writing, no
individual starter motor components were
available as separate replacement Ford parts.
An auto electrical specialist should be able to
supply parts such as brushes.
The following procedures are for the
Lucas/Magneti Marelli unit fitted to the project
vehicle - the procedure is essentially the same
for the Bosch unit that may be found on other
models.
1Remove the starter motor from the vehicle
(Section 16) (see illustration).
17 Starter motor- brush and
solenoid renewal
16 Starter motor -
removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
16.3 Unscrew upper two starter motor
mounting bolts (arrowed) from above16.6 Disconnect starter motor wiring (A),
then unscrew remaining mounting bolt (B),
and remove starter motor from beneath
vehicle
17.1 Exploded view of the Bosch DW starter
motor
1 Solenoid
2 Spring
3 Plunger
4 Engaging lever
5 Drive end housing
6 Drive pinion and
clutch
7 Spacer
8 Ring gear and carrier
9 Output shaft and
planet gear unit
10 Circlip11 Screw
12 End cap
13 C-clip
14 Shim
15 Commutator end
housing
16 Brushplate
17 Yoke
18 Rubber block
19 Armature
20 Retaining plate
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