1988 PONTIAC FIERO tire type

REAR AXLE 48-1 7
approached. No further tightening should be
attempted until the pre-load has been checked.
7. Check pre-load by using an inch pound torque
wrench.
NOTICE: After pre-load has been checked, final
tightening should be done very carefully. For
example, if when checking, pre-load was found to
be 0.6
N-m (5 lbs. in.), any additional tightening
of the pinion nut can add many additional pound
inch of torque. Therefore, the pinion nut should be
further tightened only a little at a time and the
pre-load should be checked after each slight
amount of tightening. Exceeding pre-load
specifications will compress the collapsible spacer
too far and require the installation of a new
collapsible spacer.
While observing the preceeding note, carefully set
pre-load at 2.7 to 3.6
N-m (24 to 32 1b.in.) on new
bearings or 1.0 to 1.4
N m (8 to 12 1b.in.) on used
bearings.
8. Rotate pinion several times to assure that
bearings have been seated. Check pre-load again.
If pre-load has been reduced by rotating pinion,
reset pre-load to specifications.
Rear Axle Backlash Adjustment
1. Install rear axle case into carrier, using shims as
determined by the side bearing pre-load
adjustment.
2. Rotate rear axle case several times to seat
bearings, then mount dial indicator. Use a small
button on the indicator stem so that contact can
be made near heel end of tooth. Set dial indicator
so that stem is in line as nearly as possible with
gear rotation perpendicular to tooth angle for
accurate backlash reading.
3. Check backlash at three or four points around
ring gear. Lash must not vary over
.05mm (.002")
around ring gear. Pinion must be held stationary
when checking backlash. If variation is over
.05mm (.002") check for burrs, uneven bolting
conditions or distorted case flange and make
corrections as necessary.
4. Backlash at the point of minimum lash should be
between .13 and
.23mm (.005" and ,009") for all
new gears.
5. If backlash is not within specifications, correct by
increasing thickness of one shim and decreasing
thickness of other shim the same amount. This
will maintain correct rear axle side bearing
pre-load.
For each
.03mm (.001") change in backlash
desired, transfer
.05mm (.002") in shim
thickness. To decrease backlash
.03mm (.00lU),
decrease thickness of right shim .05mm (.002")
and increase thickness of left shim .05mm (.
002 "). To increase backlash .05mm (.002 ")
increase thickness of right shim .10mm (.004")
and decrease thickness of left shim .10mm (.
004"). 6.
When backlash is correctly adjusted, remove both
bearing caps and both shim packs.
Keep packs in their respective position, right or
left side.
Select a shim
.10mm (.004") thicker than the one
removed from the left side, then insert left side
shim pack between the spacer and the left bearing
race. Loosely install bearing cap.
7. Select a shim
.10mm (.004") thicker than the one
removed from right side and insert between the
spacer and the right bearing race. It will be
necessary to drive the right shim into position
(Fig. 614).
8. Torque to 75 Nem (55 1b.ft.).
9. Recheck backlash
and correct if necessary.
10. Install axles (See Rear Axle Installation).
11.
Use sealant 1052366 or cover gasket
only.
Install cover and torque cover bolts to 27
N-m (20 1b.ft.).
12. Fill rear axle to proper level with the specified
lubricant. Refer to specifications.
LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE (GONE TYPE)
The cone-type limited-slip differential has several
definite operating characteristics. An understanding of
these characteristics is necessary as an aid to diagnosis.
The clutch energizing force comes from the
thrust side of the gears. Consequently, a free spinning
wheel may not have enough resistance to drive torque
to apply the clutch cones. If this occurs, apply the
parking brake a few notches which will provide enough
resistance to energize the clutch cones.
Energizing the clutch cones is independent of
acceleration; therefore, a very slow application of the
throttle on starting is recommended to provide
maximum traction by preventing "break away" of
either rear wheel.
Improper operation is generally indicated by cone
slippage or grabbing. Sometimes this produces a
chatter or whirring sound. However, these sounds do
not always indicate failure as they could be produced
from a lack of proper lubrication. For example, under
certain conditions where one wheel is on
a very slippery
surface and the other on dry pavement, wheel spin can
occur if over acceleration is attempted. Continued
spinning may cause audible noise, such as a whirring
sound, due to the cones lacking sufficient lubricant.
This does not necessarily indicate failure of the unit.
During regular operation (straight ahead driving)
when both wheels rotate at equal speeds, there is an
approximately equal driving force delivered to each
wheel. When cornering, the inside wheel delivers extra
driving force causing slippage in both clutch cones.
Consequently, the operational life of the limited slip
unit is dependent upon equal rotation of both wheels
during straight ahead operation. If wheel rotation for
both rear wheels is not equal during straight ahead
operation, the limited-slip unit will constantly be
functioning as if the vehicle were cornering. This will
impose constant slippage on the clutch cones and will
eventually lead to abnormal wear on the clutch cones.
Therefore, it is important that there be no excessive
differences in the rear wheel tire sizes, air pressures, or

4B-18 REAR AXLE
tire wear patterns. One indication of this condition is
"swerving on acceleration." If swerving on
acceleration is encountered, check the rear wheels for
different tire size, air pressure, or excessively different
wear patterns, and tread depths, before proceeding into
an overhaul operation.
Checking Limited-Slip Operation
1. Place transmisison
in Park position.
2. Raise
rear of vehicle until wheels are off the
ground, remove one wheel and tire assembly.
3. Attach Adapter J 2619-1 to axle shaft flange and
install a 1/2-13 bolt into adapter as shown in Fig.
617,
4. With opposite wheel and tire assembly still on
vehicle and held firmly to prevent turning,
measure torque required to rotate opposite axle
shaft with a torque wrench attached to J 2619-1.
If the torque reading is less than 48
N.m (35 lb.
ft.) the unit should be disassembled and repaired
as required.
5. The Auburn rear axle check with both tires
elevated and transmission in park (differential
case not allowed to rotate).
The torque required to rotate one wheel should
be 169 to 305
N-m (125 to 225 1bs.ft.).
6. This is the Auburn rear axle check with only one
rear wheel raised and transmission in neutral (dif-
ferential case free to rotate). The torque required
to rotate one wheel is
60 to 136 N-m (45 to 100
lbs. ft.)
7. Reinstall wheel and tire assembly.
AUBURN CONE TYPE
This limited slip rear axle transmits torque from
the drive pinion gear to the ring gear and to the case
in the same manner as the conventional rear axle. In
addition, the limited slip rear axle incorporates the use
of cone clutches which tend to lock the axle shafts to
the case, or in effect, to each other.
As driving torque is developed at the rear wheels,
side gear separating loads are developed which load the
rear axle cones. This induced clutch torque capacity re-
sists relative motion between the side gears and the rear
axle case. Therefore, if one wheel is on slippery pave-
ment, such as ice or snow, the other wheel must develop
considerably more torque before the case assembly will
differentiate and allow wheel spin.
The axle shaft torques developed when turning a
corner will overcome the clutch capacities and allow
differentiation.
All rear axle parts of vehicles equipped with this
limited slip rear axle are interchangeable with those
equipped with the conventional rear axle, except for
the case assembly. It is similar in all respects to the
conventional case assembly, with the addition of cone
clutches splined to each side gear.
INOWERVICEABLE) PINION SHAFT SCREW
Figure 6 16 Auburn Cone Type Case
Remove or Disconnect
Figure 6 16
This limited slip rear axle case is non-serviceable,
1. Follow the procedures under standard case
removal in this section.
2. Case side bearings using Tool J-22888.
3. All ring bolts except for two opposite ones.
4. Loosen the two remaining bolts slightly.
5. Tap on the two bolts alternately to loosen ring
gear.
Install or Connect
1.
Ring gear on new case.
NOTICE: Install new ring gear bolts. Never reuse
old bolts.
2. Case side bearings on new case.
3. New case starting with the Side Bearing Preload
Adjustment procedures in this section.
1 -AXLE SHAFT PULLER J-21579
2
-ADAPTER J-2619-1
3-TORQUE WRENCH
Fig.
617 Measuring Limited Slip Rotating Torque

5-8 BRAKES
1 -PEDAL 4-SWITCH
(WITH CRUISE CONTROL)
2- RETAINER
5-PEDAL SUPPORT
3-SWITCH
I lWlO CRUISE CONTROLl J10003-5-F
Figure 6 Stoplamp Switch Adjustment
brake pipe is disconnected at one wheel, only that wheel
cylinderlcaliper needs to be bled. If pipes are disconnected
at any fitting located between master cylinder and brakes,
then the brake system served by the disconnected pipe
must be bled.
Manual Bleeding (Figure
7)
Tools Required:
J 21472 Bleeder Wrench
J 28434 Rear Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
The time required to bleed the hydraulic system can
be reduced if the master cylinder is filled with fluid and
as much air as possible is expelled before the cylinder is
installed on the vehicle.
Power brakes require removing the vacuum reserve by
applying the brakes several times with the engine off. Care
must be taken to prevent brake fluid from contacting any
painted surface.
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs with brake fluid and
keep at least half full of fluid during the bleeding oper-
ation.
2.
If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have
air in the bore, then it must be bled before any wheel
cylinder or caliper in the following manner:
a. Disconnect the forward (blind end) brake pipe
connection at the master cylinder.
b. Allow brake fluid to fill the master cylinder bore
until it begins to flow from the forward pipe con-
nector port.
c. Connect the forward brake pipe to the master
cylinder and tighten. d.
Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and
hold. Loosen the forward brake pipe connec-
tion at the master cylinder to purge air from the
bore. Tighten the connection and then release
the brake pedal slowly. Wait
15 seconds.
Repeat the sequence, including the
15 second
wait, until all air is removed from the bore.
e. After all air has been removed at the forward
connection, repeat step d and bleed the master
cylinder at the rear (cowl) connection.
f. If it is known that the calipers and wheel cylin-
ders do not
coiitain any air, then it will not be
necessary to bleed them.
Individual wheel cylinders or calipers are bled only
after all air is removed from master cylinder.
a. Place a proper size box end wrench or
J 21 472
over the bleeder valve. Rear wheel cylinder
bleeder screws require tool
J 28434. Attach a
clear tube over bleeder valve and allow tube to
hang submerged in a clear container partially
filled with brake fluid. Depress the brake pedal
slowly one time and hold. Loosen the bleeder
valve to purge the air from the cylinder. Tighten
bleeder screw and slowly release pedal. Wait
15 seconds. Repeat the sequence, including
the 15 second wait until all air is removed. It may
be necessary to repeat the sequence ten or
more times to remove all the air. Rapid pumping
of the brake pedal pushes the master cylinder
secondary piston down the bore in a way that
makes it difficult to bleed the rear side of the
system.
If it is necessary to bleed all of the calipers or wheel
cylinders, the following conventional sequence
should be followed: a. right rear
b. left rear
c. right front
d. left front
Check the brake pedal for "sponginess" and the
"BRAKE" warning lamp for indication of unbalanced
pressure. Repeat entire bleeding procedure to cor-
rect either of these two conditions.
Pressure Bleeding (Figures
7 and 8)
Tools Required:
J 21472 Bleeder Wrench
J 28434 Rear Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
J 29532 Bleeder
J 29567 Bleeder Adapter
J 35856 Proportioning Valve Depressor
NOTICE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be
the diaphragm type and must have a rubber dia-
phragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to
prevent air, moisture, oil and other contaminants
fram entering the hydraulic system. It is very impor-
tant that the correct master cylinder bleeder adapter
be used to avoid possible damage to the master
cylinder reservoir.
1. Install J 29567 to the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Make sure the pressure tank is at least
lh full of Delco
Supreme $1 1 brake fluid or equivalent. The bleeder
must be bled each time fluid is added.

6A2-18 2.8 LITER V-6
Installation
Clean sealing surfaces on cylinder case and oil
pan.
Install gasket and attach retaining bolts.
Remove jack and lower engine.
Install motor mount through bolts.
Install starter.
Install exhaust pipes.
Install converter dust cover.
Lower vehicle.
Install fan shroud.
Install distributor cap.
Refill crankcase.
Install air cleaner.
Connect battery.
Start engine, check for leaks.
OIL PUMP (FIGURE 6A2-22)
Removal
1. Remove oil pan as previously outlined.
2. Remove pump to rear main bearing cap bolt and
remove pump and extension shaft.
Disassembly
1. Remove
the pump cover attaching bolts and the
pump cover. Mark gear teeth so they may be
reassembled with the same teeth indexing.
2. Remove the idler gear and the drive gear and
shaft from the pump body.
3. Remove the pressure regulator valve retaining
pin pressure regulator spring and valve.
4. If the pickup screen and pipe assembly need
replacing, mount the pump in a soft-jawed vise
and extract pipe from pump cover. Do not disturb
the pickup screen on the pipe. This is serviced as
an assembly.
Cleaning and lnspection
1. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with
compressed air.
2. Inspect the pump body and cover for cracks or
excessive wear.
3. Inspect pump gears for damage or excessive wear.
The pump gears and body are not serviced
separately. If the pump gears or body are
damaged or worn, replacement of the entire oil
pump assembly is necessary.
4. Check the drive gear shaft for looseness in the
pump body.
5. Inspect inside of pump cover for wear that would
permit oil to leak past the ends of the gears.
6. Inspect the pickup screen and pipe assembly for
damage to screen or pipe.
7. Check the pressure regulator valve for fit.
Assembly
1. If the pickup screen and pipe assembly was
removed, it should be replaced with a new part.
Loss of press fit condition could result in an air
leak and loss of oil pressure. Mount the pump in
a soft-jawed vise, apply sealer to outside diameter of
swaged end of pipe, and using Tool
J-8369 tap
the pipe in place with a plastic hammer.
NOTICE: Be careful of twisting, shearing or
collapsing pipe while installing in pump.
2. Install the pressure regulator valve and related
parts.
3. Install the drive gear and shaft in the pump body.
4. Install the idler gear in the pump body in the
original orientation.
5. Install cover gasket.
6. Install the pump cover and torque attaching
screws to specifications.
7. Turn drive shaft by hand to check for smooth
operation.
Installation
1. Assemble pump and extension shaft with retainer
to rear main bearing cap, aligning top end of
hexagon extension shaft with hexagon socket
lower end of distributor drive gear.
2. Install pump to rear bearing cap bolt and torque
to specifications.
3. Install oil pan as previously outlined.
ROD CAP AND
Figure 6A2-23 Measuring Connecting Rod Side
Clearance
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Connecting rod bearings are of the precision
insert type and do not utilize shims for adjustment. DO
NOT FILE RODS OR ROD CAPS. If clearances are
found to be excessive, a new bearing will be required.
Service bearings are available in standard size and
.013mm and .026mm undersize for use with new and
used standard size crankshafts.
lnspection and Replacement
1. With oil pan and oil pump removed, remove the
connecting rod cap and bearing.
2. Inspect the bearing for evidence of wear or
damage. (Bearings showing the above should not
be reinstalled.)
3. Wipe both upper and lower bearing shells and
crankpin clean of oil.

V-8 ENGINE 6A3-19
1 SHAFT EXTENSION
2 PUMP BODY
3 DRIVE GEAR AND
4 IDLER GEAR
9 SCREWS
5 PUMP COVER 10 PICKUP SCREEN AND
6 PRESSURE REGULATOR
Fig.
6A3-33 Oil Pump
2. Mark
gear teeth so they may be reassembled with
the same teeth indexing. Remove the idler gear
and the drive gear and shaft from the pump body.
3. Remove
the pressure regulator valve retaining
pin, pressure regulator valve and related parts.
4. If the pickup screen and pipe assembly need
replacing, mount the pump in a soft-jawed vise
and extract pipe from pump. Do not disturb the
pickup screen on the pipe. This is serviced as an
assembly.
Cleaning and lnspection
1. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with
compressed air.
2. Inspect the pump body and cover for cracks or
excessive wear.
3. Inspect
pump gears for damage or excessive wear.
The pump gears and body are not serviced
separately. If the pump gears or body are
damaged or worn, replacement of the entire
oil pump assembly is necessary.
4. Check the drive gear shaft for looseness in the
pump body.
5. Inspect inside of pump cover for wear that would
permit oil to leak past the ends of the gears.
6. Inspect the pickup screen and pipe assembly for
damage to screen, pipe or relief grommet.
7. Check the pressure regulator valve for fit.
Assembly (Figure 6A3-33)
1. If
the pickup screen and pipe assembly was
removed, it should be replaced with a new part.
Loss of press fit condition could result in an air
leak and loss of oil pressure. Mount the pump in
a soft-jawed vise, apply sealer to end of pipe, and
using Tool J-8369 (fig. 6A3-34) tap the pipe in
place with a plastic hammer.
NOTICE: Be careful of twisting, shearing or
collapsing pipe while installing in pump.
2. Install the
pressure regulator valve and related
parts.
Fig. 6A3-34 Installing Screen
3. Install the drive gear and shaft in the pump body.
4. Install
the idler gear in the pump body with the
smooth side of gear towards pump cover opening.
5. Install the pump cover and torque attaching
screws to specifications.
6. Turn
drive shaft by hand to check for smooth
operation.
Installation
1. Assemble
pump and extension shaft to rear main
bearing cap, aligning slot on top end of extension
shaft with drive tang on lower end of distributor
drive shaft.
2. Install
pump to rear bearing cap bolt and torque
to specifications.
3. Install
oil pan previously outlined.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Connecting rod bearings are of the precision
insert type and do not utilize shims for adjustment. DO
NOT FILE RODS OR ROD CAPS. If clearances are
found to be excessive a new bearing will be required.
Service bearings are available in standard size and
.001" and ,002" undersize for use with new and used
standard size crankshafts, and in
.010" and .020"
undersize for use with reconditioned crankshafts.
On removing a connecting rod cap, it is possible
to find a
.010" undersize bearing. These are used in
manufacturing for selective fitting.
lnspection and Replacement
1. With
oil pan and oil pump removed, remove the
connecting rod cap and bearing.
Before removal of connecting rod cap, mark the
side of the rod and cap with the cylinder number
to assure matched reassembly of rod and cap.
2. Inspect
the bearing for evidence of wear or
damage. (Bearings showing the above should not
be installed.)
3. Wipe both upper and lower bearing shells and
crankpin clean of oil.

V-8 ENGINE 6A3-25
Assembly
1. Lubricate piston pin holes in piston and
connecting rod to facilitate installation of pin.
2. Place connecting rod in piston and hold in place
with piston pin guide and piston pin. Place
assembly on fixture and support assembly.
3. Using piston pin installer, 5-24086-9, press the
piston pin into the piston and connecting rod (Fig.
6A3-46).
NOTICE: After installer hub bottoms on support
assembly, do not exceed
5000 psi pressure, as this
could cause structural damage to the tool.
4. Remove piston
and connecting rod assembly
from tool and check piston for freedom of
movement on piston pin.
Piston Rings
All compression rings are marked on the upper
side of the ring. When installing compression rings,
make sure the MARKED SIDE IS TOWARD THE
TOP
OF THE PISTON. The top ring is chrome faced,
or treated with molybdenum for maximum life. The
second compression ring is a tapered face acting as
both a compression and oil control ring.
The oil control rings are of three piece type,
consisting of two segments (rails) and a spacer.
Fig. 6A3-47 Measuring Ring Gap
1. Select rings comparable in size to the piston being
used.
2. Slip the compression ring in the cylinder bore;
then press the ring down into the cylinder bore
about
1/4" (6.5mm) (above ring travel). Be sure
ring is square with cylinder wall.
3. Measure the space or gap between the ends of the
ring with a feeler gage (Fig.
6A3-47).
4. If the gap between the ends of the ring is below
specifications, remove the ring and try another
for fit.
5. Fit each compression ring to the cylinder in
which it is going to be used.
6. If the pistons have not been cleaned and inspected
as previously outlined, do so.
Fig. 6A3-48 Checking Ring in Groove
7. Slip the outer surface of the top and second
compression ring into the respective piston ring
groove and roll the ring entirely around the groove
(Fig.
6A3-48) to make sure that the ring is free.
If binding occurs at any point, the cause should
be determined. If binding is caused by ring groove,
correct by dressing with a fine cut file. If
the
binding is caused by a distorted ring, check a new
ring.
8. Install piston rings as follows:
a. Install oil ring spacer in groove and insert
anti-rotation tang (where applicable) in
drilled hole.
b. Hold spacer ends butted and install lower
steel oil ring rail with gap properly located.
c. Install
upper steel oil ring rail with gap
properly located.
d. Flex the oil ring assembly to make sure ring
is free. If binding occurs at any point the
cause should be determined. If binding is
caused by ring groove, correct by dressing
groove with a fine cut file. If binding is
caused by a distorted ring, check a new ring.
e. Install second compression ring
(manufacturer mark up) with gaps properly
located.
f. Install top compression ring (manufacturer
mark up) with gap properly located.
9. Proper clearance of the piston ring in its piston
ring groove is very important to provide proper
ring action and reduce wear. Therefore, when
fitting new rings, the clearances between the
surfaces of the ring and groove should be measured
(Fig.
6A3-49). (See Specifications).
Installation
Cylinder bores must be clean before piston
installation. This may be accomplished with a hot
water and detergent wash or with a light honing as
necessary. After cleaning, the bores should be swabbed
several times with light engine oil and a clean dry cloth.
1. Lubricate connecting rod bearings and install in
rods and rod caps.

6A3-26 V-8 ENGINE
Fig. 6A3-49 Measuring Ring Groove Clearance
2. Lightly coat pistons, rings
and cylinder walls
with light engine oil.
3. With bearing caps removed, install Tool J-5239
(3/8") on connecting rod bolts.
4. Install
each connecting rod and piston assembly
in its respective bore. Install with connecting rod
bearing tang slots on side opposite camshaft. Use
Tool
5-8037 to compress the rings. Guide the
connecting rod into place on the crankshaft
journal with Tool
5-5239 (3/8"). Use a hammer
handle and light blows to install the piston into
the bore. Hold the ring compressor firmly against
the cylinder block until all piston rings have
entered the cylinder bore.
5. Remove Tool J-5239.
6. Install the bearing caps and torque nuts to
specifications.
Be sure to install new pistons in the cylinders for
which they were fitted, and used pistons in the cylinder
from which they were removed. Each connecting rod
and bearing cap should be marked, beginning at the
front of the engine.
1,3,5 and 7 in the left bank and, 2
4, 6 and 8 in the right bank. The numbers on the
connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same
side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting
rod is ever transposed from one block or cylinder to
another, new bearings should be fitted and the
connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with
the new cylinder number.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Cleaning and Inspection
1. Wash cylinder block thoroughly in cleaning
solvent and clean all gasket surfaces.
2. Remove oil gallery plugs and clean all oil
passages.
3. Clean and inspect coolant passages in the cylinder
block.
4. Inspect the cylinder block for cracks in the
cylinder walls, coolant jacket, valve lifter bores
and main bearing webs. 5.
Measure the cylinder walls for taper,
out-of-round or excessive ridge at top of ring
travel. This should be done with a dial indicator.
Set the gage so that the thrust pin must be forced
in about
1/4" (6.5mm) to enter gage in cylinder
bore. Center gage in cylinder and turn dial to
"0".
Carefully work gage up and down cylinder to
determine taper and turn it to different points
around cylinder wall to determine the
out-of-round condition. If cylinders were found
to exceed specifications, honing or boring will be
necessary.
Conditioning
The performance of the following operation is
contingent upon engine condition at time of repair.
If the cylinder block inspection indicated that the
block was suitable for continued use except for
out-of-round or tapered cylinders, they can be
conditioned by honing or boring.
If the cylinders were found to have less than
.005"
(.13mm) taper or wear, they can be conditioned with
a hone and fitted with the high limit standard size
piston. A cylinder bore of less then
.005" (. 13mm) wear
or taper may not entirely clean up when fitted to a high
limit piston. If it is desired to entirely clean up the bore
in these cases, it will be necessary to
rebore for an
oversize piston. If more than
.005" (. 13mm) taper or
wear, they should be bored and honed to the smallest
oversize that will permit complete resurfacing of all
cylinders.
When pistons are being fitted and honing is not
necessary, cylinder bores may be cleaned with a hot
water and detergent wash. After cleaning, the cylinder
bores should be swabbed several times with light engine
oil and a clean cloth and then wiped with a clean dry
cloth.
Boring
1. Before using any type boring bar, the top of the
cylinder block should be filed to remove any dirt
or burrs. This is very important. If not checked,
the boring bar may be tilted which would result
in the
rebored cylinder wall not being at right
angles to the crankshaft.
2. The
piston to be fitted should be measured with
a micrometer, measuring at the center of the
piston skirt and at right angles to the piston pin.
The cylinder should be bored to the same
diameter as the piston and honed to give the
specified clearance.
3.
The instructions furnished by the manufacturer
of the equipment being used should be carefully
followed.
Honing
1. When cylinders are to be honed, follow the hone
manufacturer's recommendations for the use of
the hone and cleaning and lubrication during
honing.
2. Occasionally during the honing operation, the
cylinder bore should be thoroughly cleaned and
the piston selected for the individual cylinder
checked for correct fit.

88-12 ENGINE COOLING
Fig. 18 Cleaning Area With Steel Brush
e Use with adequate ventilation.
In case of eye contact, flush with
plenty of water and get medical
attention.
In case of body
contact, wash
thoroughly with soap
and water.
Do not
mix the primer with water.
6. Scrub the repair area with a cotton swab until a
fresh swab stays clean. The clear, yellow-brown
coating does not have to be removed (Fig. 19).
Fig. 19 Scrubbing Area with Primer
7. Heat the repair area with the heat gun or by
moving the torch in a circular pattern (Fig. 20).
Use a soft, small blue flame (like a gas stove
flame).
8. Withdraw the torch and rub the adhesive stick on
the repair area (Fig. 21). The adhesive will flow
at a temperature of approximately 500°F (260°C).
If the stick doesn't start to melt, remove it and
reapply the heat.
Do not heat the stick
directly with
a flame. High heat will burn
and
char the adhesive.
9. Continue heating until the adhesive flows and
wets the entire repair area and fills the joint. If a
hole is in the center of a tube, heat the tube and
let the hot surface melt and pull in the adhesive.
The force of the flame or heat gun will also tend
to guide the adhesive toward the hole. For leaks
between a tube and header, flow the adhesive
completely around the tube and header joint with
the tank installed.
Fig. 20 Heating the Repair Area
I
Fig. 21 Applying Hot Melt Adhesive I
10. Heat the repair area until the adhesive is
bubble-free and smooth, with a light yellow color.
Curing is not required.
11. Test the radiator for leaks, when cool. If the
repair area still leaks, reheat it gently to dry it.
Heat and
reflow the adhesive, or apply more as
necessary, to repair the leak.
Tank Gasket beak Repair I 1
Tank gasket leaks can easily be mistaken for tank or
header leaks. If a plastic tank leaks from the header joint
gasket, tighten the clinch tabs with locking-type pliers
(Fig. 22). If this method doesn't seal the leak, remove the
tank for further inspection.
1. Pry open the clinch tabs, except those under inlet,
outlet, and filler necks, using
J33419-A or a screw-
driver (Fig.
23). Lift tabs only enough to allow
removal.
NOTICE: Care should be taken not to overbend
tabs. Overbending could result in breakage. If
there are more than
3 tabs broken on one side of
the header, or more than
2 adjacent tabs together,
the core must be replaced.
2. Lift the tank and slide it out from under the
remaining clinched tab. You may have to tap the