1988 FIAT TEMPRA brake fluid

—1 Job 59. Check spare tyre.

This
job should ideally be carried out every month or two
-
you
never know when you're going to need that spare! But if you
haven't remembered, do it at the time shown on the Service
Interval Chart at the latest.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: Put in the maximum recom-
mended pressure for heavy-duty use
-
it's always easier
to let some air out if necessary, than to put some in. Lift
the spare out check the 'hidden' lower side wall
for cracking. See Job 6. E9
PART I: ROAD TEST
Q Job 62. Road test and specialist check
-
after
every service.
Before you can claim to have 'finished' working on your car,
you must check it, test it, and, if necessary, have a qualified
mechanic check it over for you.

If you
are not a qualified mechanic, we strongly recommend
having someone who is a properly qualified mechanic
-
your
FIAT dealership perhaps
-
inspect all of the car's safety-related

items
after they have been worked on at home and before

using
the car on the road.
You'll have to remove the toolkit and the wheel to get at the
valve
-
under the boot floor on most models but to one side of
the rear compartment on Estate versions.
• Job 60. Change pollen filter.
When fitted to the fresh air intake, replace it at the scheduled
mileage interval.
• Job 61. Replace airbag gas generator.
Have your FIAT dealer replace the airbag gas generator 10
years after the car was built
-
see the label inside the car's
glove compartment door.
• Before setting out, check that the lights, indicators and in-
car controls, as well as seat belts and seat adjustments, all
work correctly.
• Run the car for several minutes before setting out then turn
off, check fluid levels and check underneath for leaks.
• Check that the steering moves freely in both directions and
that the car does not 'pull' one way or the other when driving
in a straight line
-
but do bear in mind the effect of the
camber on the road.
• Make sure that the brakes work effectively, smoothly and
without the need for 'pumping'. There should be no juddering
or squealing.
• Check that the car does not 'pull' from one side to the
other when you brake firmly from around 40 mph. (Don't
cause a skid and don't try this if there is any following traffic.)
"V,
WURTH PRODUCTS FROM FIAT

A.
Wurth produce a huge range of very high quality, FIAT-
approved products, from zinc-rich aerosol paints,
rust-proofing products and the safety-related items shown
here...
B. ...to electrical connectors and tools and that wonderful
'shrink-fit' wire insulation tubing
-
slide it on, heat it up, and it
'shrinks' into place and can't come undone again. See your
FIAT dealer or other specialist supplier for the vast range of
top-quality Wurth products.

Job 17. Diesel engine.
Valve clearances - adjustment.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! After carrying out Job 16,
valve clearance measurement and adjustment is now
needed. Both measurement and shim replacement are
carried out in the same manner as for the petrol engine

(.Job
7), so refer to this and also to Chapter 3, Facts
and Figures for specifications. B
Job 18. Diesel engine - removal.
moving parts with engine oil during assembly. See Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures for specified tightening torques.
luei suppiy diiu leium pipe;>
at the injection pump...
• Step 9: ...and the stop
control supply cable. Also
disconnect the cable from
the injection pump hydraulic
advance control sensor and
the alternator cables.
• Step 10:
Disconnect the oil
feed and return
pipes between the
thermostatic valve
and the radiator
and tie clear.

I

This should
be read in connection with Job 8
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! • The turbo and non-turbo
diesel engines are essentially similar.
• The under-bonnet scene is in some ways different
because of the extra plumbing required when a turbo is
fitted.
• Locations and shapes of various items may differ, or
not exist at all on the non-turbo unit.
• As most complexity is found with the turbo engine,

I

the
following illustrations are mainly of this version.
• The power units are removed from under the car,
therefore make sure you can raise the car enough to
achieve this. Support the car firmly and safely on axle
stands. D
Q Step 1: Disconnect the negative lead from the battery

and drain
the cooling system. Q Step 2: Remove the bonnet lid.
• Step 3: Drain the transmission oil.
Q Step 4: Disconnect and remove all pipes and hoses.
Q Step 5: Undo all electrical connection and label them

with masking
tape. Write matching numbers on each male

and female
connection to assist reconnection, later.
Q Step 6: Disconnect the power steering pump pipes

(where fitted),
catching any spilt fluid and tie them clear. See

Job 14.

• Step 7: Part the
connection for the

electronic
speedometer
magnetic impulse

generator
(when fitted).
Q Step 11: Disconnect the clutch cable, adjacent earth lead
and reversing light switch other cable connection from the top
of the gearbox.
• Step 12: Disconnect the leads from the oil pressure
warning light from the oil filter mounting, and the oil level
warning light switch.
• Step 13: From under the car, remove the exhaust front
section from the manifold and from its support brackets.
O Step 14: Remove the front road wheels and the access
panel from each wheel housing.
• Step 15: Remove the brake pad wear sensor cables,
when fitted.
Q Step 16A: On the turbo version, undo the six 'Allen'
screws securing the inboard end of each drive-shaft. Undo the
two pinch bolts that fix each stub axle to the suspension struts
and pull them clear. Ease the drive-shafts clear of the trans-
mission casing

-
take care
not to
damage the
protective
boots.

Job 14. Hydraulic clutch
components.

Later Tipos
and Tempras used a hydraulic clutch in place of

the cable
arrangement used on the early cars. No adjustment

is
possible.
a - clutch fluid reservoir b - master cylinder supply hose c - boot d - master cylinder e - mounting bracket f - cover
a
-
threaded cap b - seals c - master cylinder body
d - slave cylinder body e - bleed screw cap f - bleed screw
Job 14-2
g h i
i k
• Step 1: This is the layout of the hydraulic clutch compo-
nents. Note that the master cylinder supply hose (b) is a low
pressure hose. The method of disconnecting the rigid hose (k)
and the flexible hose (h) is very similar to that for disconnecting
the brake hoses in PART H: BRAKES, Jobs
15
and 16
Removal of the master cylinder or slave cylinder, should
replacement become necessary, can be easily discerned from
the drawing shown here. Note that, if the clevis pin which
holds the master cylinder to the pedal is worn, it should be
replaced. The master cylinder bolts can be reached only after
the cover (f) has been undipped and removed. The slave
cylinder is held to the gearbox casing by the bracket (e) and
must first be disconnected from the clutch arm (I).
• Step 2: These are the internal components of the clutch
master and slave cylinders. Because the clutch components are
not as safely critical as brake components, it is acceptable to
- mounting bracket - vibration damper - rigid hose - clutch operating arm Job 14-1
• Step 9:
Remove the
bearing
retention
cirdip from the

stub axle
(also,
Job 13-1, part
«...
- slave cylinder - flexible hose • Step 10:
...and press out

the old
bearing

{Job
13-1,

part c).
Note

the
inner race
usually breaks

free and
has to

be drifted
off

the hub,
as
shown.
Q Step 11: Clean the stub axle and press in the new
bearing, putting pressure on the outer track only. Refit

the
cirdip.
Q Step 12: Now press the hub into the bearing using a

suitable
tube putting pressure on the inner track.
• Step 13:
Continue the
assembly in the

reverse
order of
dismantling and

see
Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures

for torque
settings.

Use
new drive-

shaft to
hub nuts

and stake
them in

to the
shaft
groove. New

caliper fixing
bolts must also be used.

Job 13. Rear shock absorbers and
coil springs - replacement.
Q Step 12: ...then complete the
operation by using a standard
puller with a strong packing piece
(arrowed) for the puller shaft to
'push' against.
G Step 13: Remove the circlip
(see illustration Job
12-9,
part b)
and drift or press out the bearing
outer track from the hub carrier.
• Step 14: Check the hub
carrier for serviceability and
replace if it is in any way
damaged.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The
new bearing is a complete
sealed unit and requires no
extra lubrication. D
• Step 15: Press the bearing
into the carrier using pressure on
the outer track ONLY (a). Fit the
circlip to retain it.
• Step 17:
Reassemble the front
suspension and brakes

in
the reverse order of
removal. See relevant

Jobs
for detailed infor-
mation. Use a NEW
hub nut fitted as
shown.
FACT FILE: STAKING THE HUB NUT
• Step 18: Use a cold

chisel
with an edge
ground to an angle of
about 60 degrees to stake

the
collar of the nut. USE

A
NEW NUT EACH TIME
IT IS REPLACED.
Q Step 19: Make sure the staked-down section of the collar

fits
in the stub axle

slot
in the opposite
direction to the
direction of the

nut
rotation, as
shown.
• Step 1: Refer to the drawings Job 1-1Cand 1-1D.
• Step 2: Leave the weight on the suspension by means of
a jack under the trailing arm (see illustration Job
1-1C,
part
• Step 3: Undo the nuts (see illustration Job
1-1D,
part
6)

and washers retaining the shock absorber (Job
1-1D,
part 5).
• Step 4: Pull the shock absorber off the top and bottom
mounting studs and carefully lower the jack to release the
pressure on, and then withdraw the coil spring. See also
Job 11
O Step 5: Refit in reverse order making sure that the coil
spring is properly seated top and bottom and that the shock
absorber nuts are tightened to the correct torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Job 14. Rear suspension and
wheel bearings - replacement.
Carry out this Job in connection with illustration Job
1-1C
and
1-1D.
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE:
The trailing arms come
complete with bearings and
spacers (arrowed) as an
assembly. If the bearings are
defective, or the arm is cracked
or distorted, or showing signs
of wear or corrosion on the
wheel side, the whole assembly must be changed.
Q Step 2: Support the rear of the car on axle stands so that
the suspension hangs free. Remove the road wheels.
• Step 3: Remove the exhaust system. See PART F: FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 14.
• Step 4: Remove the fuel tank. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 5: Disconnect the brake pipes from the four-way
union and plug the ends to prevent excessive fluid loss.
Q Step 6: Slacken the cable adjustment under the
handbrake lever and disconnect the rear cable ends from the
equaliser. See PART H: BRAKES, Job 18
/ • Step 7: • Using a trolley
jack under the rear end of
the trailing arm to be
removed, compress the spring enough to undo the
mounting nuts and remove the shock absorber.
• Slowly lower the jack and remove the spring. This
allows you to use the weight of the car to help you
compress the spring
-
a difficult task otherwise!
Q Step 16: Press the hub into
the bearing, pushing ONLY on the
inner track with a suitable piece of
strong tube (1).

• Step 8:
Support the
axle beam with
the jack and
undo the
mounting bolts
(arrowed and
indicated by
operator with
socket bar).
Lower the
complete unit
from the car.
IMPORTANT NOTE: In this shot, the top shock absorber
mountings have been disconnected, leaving the shock
absorber fitted to the suspension and the coil springs in
place. We recommend 'our' approach, covered in Step 7!
• Step 9: Undo the bolts securing the anti-roll bar and
remove it. (See Job 9.) Disconnect the brake pipes from the
side to be worked on and remove the brake drum.
Q Step 10: Remove the hub cap (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part 13) by carefully tapping and levering with a screwdriver.
• Step 11: Undo the hub nut (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part
10).

PART H: BRAKES
• Step 12: A special tool
(1857508000) or a VERY
strong Allen key (a) will be
required to reach into the
hub (b), and plenty of
leverage!
Q Step 13: Remove the
hub and inspect the bearing
for roughness or noise or
roughness when turning it by hand.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! The bearing is lubricated for
life and is only supplied as an assembly with the hub. B
• Step 14: Inspect the stub axle pin (see illustration Job
1-

1D, part
12)
for any signs of damage or distortion. Replace if
in doubt.
Q Step 15: Refitting is the reverse of removal but note the
following:
• See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for all tightening
torques as you progress through the assembling.
• Use new hub nuts and fully tighten once the suspension is
mounted to give you stability.
• Refer to PART H: BRAKES when refitting the brake parts
and bleeding the brakes.
PART H: Contents %
Job 1. Understanding Tipo/Tempra brakes.
Job 2. Front brake pads
-
replacement.
Job 3. Front brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 4. Front brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes
-
replacement.
Job 6. Rear wheel cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 7. Rear brake disc pads
-
replacement.
Job 8. Rear brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 9. Rear brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 10. Master cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 11. Servo check
-
remove and refit.
Job 12. Pressure regulating valve, non-ABS system -
replacement and adjustment.
Job 13. Pressure regulating valves, ABS system
-
replacement
and adjustment.
Job 14. RPM sensors, ABS systems
-
replacement.
Job 15. Flexible hoses
-
replacement.
Job 16. Metal pipes
-
replacement.
Job 17. Brake bleeding.
Job 18. Handbrake cables
-
replacement.
Job 1. Understanding
Tipo/Tempra brakes.
• Point
1
A: This is the standard disc/drum system used on
cars without anti-lock brakes, shown here in left hand drive
form.
1 - fluid reservoir and master cylinder 2 - servo 3
-
front disc brakes
4 - handbrake lever 5 - rear drum brakes 6
-
four way pipe union 7 - load proportioning/ pressure limiting valve
Job 1-1A
1 - front disc brakes 2
-
front flywheel 3 - front wheel RPM sensors 4 - hydraulic control unit 5 - brake light switch 6 - device failure warning light switch
7 - rear flywheel 8 - main control relay with excess voltage protection 9 - electronic control unit 10 - rear disc brakes 11 - rear wheel RPM sensors 12 - load proportioning/pressure limiting valve Job
1-1B

Q Point 1B: This version shows the anti-lock braking system
and has discs replacing drums at the rear. One of two makes
is used
-
Lucas or Bosch
-
and both are similar in design.
Shown here is the Bosch ABS system in left hand drive form.
Apart from checking that the hydraulic and electrical connec-
tions are sound, anti-lock brakes are not repairable. Individual
components and friction materials can be replaced but
otherwise, you should consult your FIAT dealer for diagnosis
of system faults (with specialised equipment) and rectification.
SPECIAL NOTES: • Unplug the electronic control unit
(ECU) before any electric welding is carried out.
• When oven drying paint, the ECU cannot withstand 95
degrees Celsius for more than a few minutes or 85
degrees Celsius for more than 2 hours.
• Disconnect the battery earth before removing the
hydraulic control.
• When reconnecting the battery, make sure the connec-
tions are firm and sound.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: When disconnecting brake
pipes or hoses, it is essential to minimise brake fluid loss.
This can be done by unscrewing the master cylinder
reservoir cap, laying a sheet of plastic across the opening,
and refitting the cap. This will prevent atmospheric
pressure from pushing the fluid out of opened lines. D
Job 2. Front brake pads -
replacement.
Changing and checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads
are virtually identical jobs. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your
Car, pages 59 and 60
Job 3. Front brake caliper -
replacement.
Carry out this work with reference to Chapter 5, Servicing
Your Car, Job 49, pages 59 and 60.
Q Step 1: Slacken the front road wheels, jack up the car
and support on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
Q Step 2: Unplug
the brake pad wear
sensor (a
-
arrowed)
and ease the fluid
pipe/hose from the
bracket (b
-
arrowed)

on
the shock absorber
leg.
Q Step 3: Undo the brake fluid pipe union from the caliper
body and plug the end to prevent too much fluid loss.
Q Step 4: Undo the bolts and remove the caliper.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The caliper securing bolts must
always be replace by new FIAT ones when loosened or
removed. They are of a special self-locking type. B
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse order and bleed the brakes, see
Job 17
Job 4. Front brake disc -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Carry out Steps 1 to 4 in Job 3.
• Step 2:
Undo the
securing bolts
and remove
the caliper
support
bracket.
• Step 3:
Undo the disc
fixing bolts
and withdraw
the brake
disc.
Q Step 4: Refit the remaining parts in reverse order of
removal. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car.
Carry out this work with reference to Chapter 5, Servicing
Your Car, Job 50, pages 60 and 61.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes -
replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! It often helps to work on one
side at a time, completing all the work on that side of
the car and using the other side as a reference before
you start dismantling it. Q
• Before refitting the disc,
ensure that the mating
surfaces
-
hub to disc, are
clean and undamaged.
• Spin the disc to be sure there is no 'run out' before
proceeding further.
Job 4-2

Job 8. Rear brake caliper -
replacement.
• Step 13:
Clean the
adjuster
assembly and
lubricate the
adjustment
screw (2) _ ^ Job 5_13
sparingly with
copper grease. Before refitting, reset the adjuster by screwing
the ratchet wheel (1) up to the spring (3) and then back off by
half a turn.
This job is carried out in the same way as pad replacement
{Job 7) with the addition of the following:
• Step 1:
Disconnect the
handbrake cable
(arrowed) and
withdraw from
the caliper body.
• Step 2: Slacken the brake
hose at the caliper end, undo
the caliper fixing bolts
(arrowed), remove the caliper
and unscrew the caliper and
flexible hose from the end of
the previously slackened rigid
hose. Plug the hose ends.
• Step 14: Smear a little brake grease (NOT ordinary
grease) very sparingly on all the shoe contact points on the
backplate and the springs, then continue to re-assemble in
reverse order. Refer to Job

18
for handbrake cable
adjustment.
• Step 15: Make
absolutely certain that all
of the springs are in good
condition (replace any
with stretched coils or
straightened ends) and are
fitted in their correct
locations.
Job 6. Rear wheel cylinder -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Refer to Job 5 and remove the brake shoes.
Q Step 2: Undo the brake pipe union at the back of the
wheel cylinder and plug the end (arrowed). Unscrew the two
fixing bolts and withdraw the cylinder.
Q Step 3: Refit in the reverse order of removal. Refer to Job

77
for brake bleeding.
• Step 3:
H INSIDE INFOR-
MATION! Before
fitting the new caliper
it must be primed with
new brake fluid by
connecting a tube to
the opened bleed
screw and pouring
brake fluid through it
until it comes out of
the hole where the brake hose fits (arrowed). Then lock
up the bleed nipple. Q
Q Step 4: Refit the caliper using NEW self locking bolts. See
Chapter 3, Facts and Figures
• Step 5: Complete this job as described in Chapter 5,
Servicing Your Car, Job 59, page 61.
Job 7. Rear brake disc pads
replacement.
Job 9. Rear brake disc
replacement.
Changing and checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads
are virtually identical jobs. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your
Car, pages 60 and 61.
Q Step 1: Remove the brake pads and caliper as described

in
Job 7
and
8
• Step 2: Undo the mounting bolts (arrowed)...

• Step 3: ...and
remove the caliper
support bracket.
Ll Step 4: Unscrew
the disc fixing bolts and
withdraw the disc.
clean and undamaged.
• Before refitting the disc,
ensure that the mating
surfaces
-
hub to disc, are
Job 10. Master cylinder
replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: • On right-hand drive cars, the
master cylinder is on the driver's side and is VERY
different to get at, behind the engine.
• To remove the master cylinder on these cars you may
need to remove the complete assembly
-
master cylinder,
servo and pedal assembly
-
from inside the car. Q
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE: Protect all paint surfaces
from possible brake fluid spillage before starting work.
You know what a good paint stripper it is!
• Step 2: Syphon off as much brake fluid as possible or
bleed it out
through one of the
front brakes until
the master cylinder
makes 'sucking'
noises.
• Step 3:
Remove the
reservoir from the
master cylinder.
138
• Step 4: Use a spanner
-
preferably a purpose-made split
ring spanner
-
to undo all the pipe unions from the master
cylinder.
• Step 5:
Undo the nuts
securing the
master cylinder
to the servo and
remove it.
• Step 6: Refit
in the reverse
order and refer
to Job
77
for
bleeding the
brakes.
Job 11. Servo check
and refit.
remove
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: • Before condemning the
servo for lack of efficiency, check the condition of the
one-way valve and vacuum pipe connecting it to the
inlet manifold.
• Ease the valve out of the front of the servo and
disconnect the pipe from the inlet manifold.
• Check that you can only blow one way through the
valve
-
from the servo end towards the inlet manifold (or
the brake vacuum pump
-
Diesel models).
• The vacuum pipe can suffer failure in many ways. Age
can harden it until it cracks, causing an air leak which
sometimes results in a whistling noise and rough slow-
running.
• Loose connections could also produce the same result.
• The other type of vacuum hose failure is an implosion
(where the hose is sucked flat by the vacuum) often
because oil has softened the hose.
• This is not so easily detected, as it rarely upsets the
engine performance and resumes its normal shape
shortly after the engine is stopped.
• The inner lining can also deteriorate, causing a
blockage. Q
• Step 1: Follow Job
10
to remove the master cylinder.
• Step 2: From inside the car, unhook the accelerator cable
from the pedal fork.
• Step 3:
Undo the
fixing nuts,
remove the
retaining
plate and
pedal
assembly.
•
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Job 11-3