1988 FIAT TEMPRA brake fluid

Please be sure to read the whole of this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
SAFETY FIRST!
You must always ensure that
safety is the first consideration
in any job you carry out. A
slight lack of concentration, or
a rush to finish the job quickly
can easily result in an accident,
as can failure to follow the
precautions outlined in
this manual.
Be sure to consult the
suppliers of any materials and
equipment you may use, and
to obtain and read carefully
any operating and health and
safety instructions that may
be available on packaging or
from manufacturers
and suppliers.
Raising the Car Safely
ALWAYS ensure that the vehicle is properly supported when
raised off the ground. Don't work on, around, or underneath
a raised vehicle unless axle stands are positioned under
secure, load bearing underbody areas, or the vehicle is driven
onto ramps, with the wheels remaining on the ground
securely chocked to prevent movement.
NEVER work on a vehicle supported on a jack. Jacks are made
for lifting the vehicle only, not for holding it off the ground
while it is being worked on.
ALWAYS ensure that the safe working load rating of any
jacks, hoists or lifting gear used is sufficient for the job, and
that lifting gear is used only as recommended by the
manufacturer.
NEVER attempt to loosen or tighten nuts that require a lot of
force to turn (e.g. a tight oil drain plug) with the vehicle
raised, unless it is safely supported. Take care not to pull the
vehicle off its supports when applying force to a spanner.
Wherever possible, initially slacken tight fastenings before
raising the car off the ground.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when working under the
vehicle and when using power tools.
Working On The Vehicle
ALWAYS seek specialist advice unless you are justifiably
confident about carrying out each job. The safety of your
vehicle affects you, your passengers and other road users.
DON'T lean over, or work on, a running engine unless it is
strictly necessary, and keep long hair and loose clothing well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts. Note that it is
theoretically possible for fluorescent striplighting to make an
engine fan appear to be stationary
-
double check whether it
is spinning or not! This is the sort of error that happens when
you're really tired and not thinking straight. So...
...DON'T work on your car when you're over tired.
ALWAYS work in a well ventilated area and don't inhale dust
- it may contain asbestos or other harmful substances.
NEVER run the engine indoors, in a confined space or over
a pit.
REMOVE your wrist watch, rings and all other jewellery before
doing any work on the vehicle
-
and especially when working
on the electrical system.
DON'T remove the radiator or expansion tank filler cap when
the cooling system is hot, or you may get scalded by escaping
coolant or steam. Let the system cool down first and even
then, if the engine is not completely cold, cover the cap with
a cloth and gradually release the pressure.
NEVER drain oil, coolant or automatic transmission fluid when
the engine is hot. Allow time for it to cool sufficiently to avoid
scalding you.
ALWAYS keep antifreeze, brake and clutch fluid away from
vehicle paintwork. Wash off any spills immediately.
TAKE CARE to avoid touching any engine or exhaust system
component unless it is cool enough not to burn you.

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

Mains Electricity
Avoid the use of mains electricity when working on the vehicle,
whenever possible. Use rechargeable tools and a DC inspection
lamp, powered from a remote 12V battery
-
both are much
safer. However, if you do use mains-powered equipment,
ensure that the appliance is wired correctly to its plug, that
where necessary it is properly earthed (grounded), and that the
fuse is of the correct rating for the appliance. Do not use any
mains powered equipment in damp conditions or in the vicinity
of fuel, fuel vapour or the vehicle battery.
Always use an RCD (Residual Current Device) circuit breaker
with mains electricity. Then, if there is a short, the RCD circuit
breaker minimises the risk of electrocution by instantly cutting
the power supply.
Ignition System
Never work on the ignition system with the ignition switched
on, or with the engine being turned over on the starter, or
running and you are recommended never to do so.
Touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT
leads, distributor cap, ignition coil etc., can result in a severe
electric shock or physical injury as a hand is pulled sharply away.
Voltages produced by electronic ignition systems are much
higher than those produced by conventional systems and could
prove fatal, particularly to people with cardiac pacemaker
implants. Consult your handbook or main dealer if in any
doubt.
Cooling Fan
On many vehicles, the electric cooling fan can switch itself on
even with the ignition turned off. This is especially likely after
driving the car and parking it before turning off, after which
heat rises to the top of the engine and turns the fan on,
suddenly and without warning. If you intend working in the
engine bay, it's best to do so when the engine is cold, to
disconnect the battery, or keep away from the fan, if neither of
these are possible.
Battery
Never cause a spark, smoke, or allow a naked light near the
vehicle's battery, even in a well ventilated area. Highly explosive
hydrogen gas is given off as part of the charging process.
Battery terminals on the car should be shielded, since a spark
can be caused by any metal object which touches the battery's
terminals or connecting straps.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before disconnecting the battery earth
(ground) terminal read the relevant FACT FILE in Chapter 5
regarding saving computer and radio settings.)
When using a battery charger, switch off the power supply
before the battery charger leads are connected or disconnected.
If the battery is not of the 'sealed-for-life' type, loosen the filler
plugs or remove the cover before charging. For best results the
battery should be given a low rate trickle charge overnight. Do
not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.
Always wear gloves and goggles when carrying or when
topping up the battery. Acid electrolyte is extremely corrosive
and must not be allowed to contact the eyes, skin or clothes.
Brakes and Asbestos
Obviously, a car's brakes are among its most important safety
related items. ONLY work on your vehicle's braking system if
you are trained and competent to do so. If you have not been
trained in this work, but wish to carry out the jobs described in
this book, we strongly recommend that you have a garage or
qualified mechanic check your work before using the car.
Whenever you work on the braking system components, or
remove front or rear brake pads or shoes: i) wear an efficient
particle mask; ii) wipe off all brake dust from the brakes after
spraying on a proprietary brand of brake cleaner (never blow
dust off with compressed air); iii) dispose of brake dust and
discarded shoes or pads in a sealed plastic bag; iv) wash your
hands thoroughly after you have finished working on the
brakes and certainly before you eat or smoke; v) replace shoes
and pads only with asbestos-free shoes or pads. Note that
asbestos brake dust can cause cancer if inhaled; vi) always
replace brake pads and/or shoes in complete 'axle' sets of four
-

never replace the pads/shoes on one wheel only.
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid absorbs moisture rapidly from the air and can
become dangerous resulting in brake failure. You should
change the fluid in accordance with your vehicle manufacturer's
recommendations or as advised in this book. Never store (or
use) an opened container of brake fluid. Dispose of the
remainder at your Local Authority Waste Disposal Site, in the
designated disposal unit, not with general waste or with waste
oil.
Engine Oils
Always wear disposable plastic or rubber gloves when draining
the oil from your engine, i) Note that the drain plug and the oil
are often hotter than you expect. Wear gloves if the plug is too
hot to touch and keep your hand to one side so that you are
not scalded by the spurt of oil as the plug comes away; ii) There
are very real health hazards associated with used engine oil. In
the words of one manufacturer's handbook "Prolonged and
repeated contact may cause serious skin disorders, including
dermatitis and cancer." Use a barrier cream on your hands and
try not to get oil on them. Always wear gloves and wash your
hands with hand cleaner soon after carrying out the work. Keep
oil out of the reach of children; iii) NEVER, EVER dispose of old
engine oil into the ground or down a drain. In the UK, and in
most EC countries, every local authority must provide a safe
means of oil disposal. In the UK, try your local Environmental
Health Department for advice on waste disposal facilities.
Plastic Materials
Many of the materials used (polymers, resins, adhesives and
materials acting as catalysts and accelerators) contain dangers in
the form of poisonous fumes, skin irritants, and the risk of fire

• Repeat this operation three more times until the
complete code number has been entered, if the code
has been entered in correctly LED B will start flashing.
• Release button A (see illustration
1B).
Red LED B
flashes for 8 seconds indicating the new remote unit's
code has been stored.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the LED does not illuminate
when remote unit button (illustration 1B, button
O is pressed, change the remote unit's battery.
• Insert the emergency key A into the emergency switch
slot in the glove compartment turn the key to the left to
switch the alarm off (see inset).
• Turn the key back towards its original position to
switch the alarm system back on.
IMPORTANT NOTE: As the alarm system absorbs
energy, if you are not planning on using the car
for a long period of time, turn the alarm exclusion
key to the off position, so as not to run the vehicle
battery down.
• 2. IGNITION SWITCH AND
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
IGNITION SWITCH
2. The ignition/steering column lock key, once inserted
in the ignition lock, can be placed in any of the
following four positions:
• PARK
-
With the key in this
position the side and tail lights
can be turned on, the steering
column locked and the keys
can be removed. Press button
A to turn the key to PARK.
• STOP
-
When the key is
turned to the STOP position the steering column will be
locked, and the keys can be removed.
• MAR
-
This is the driving position. When the key is in
this position all the electrical devices are energised.
• AW
-
Turning the key to this position starts the
engine.
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
• LOCKING
-
To apply the steering wheel lock turn the
steering wheel slightly to the left or right when the key is
at STOP or PARK.
• UNLOCKING
-
Rocking the steering wheel gently back
and forth while turning the ignition key to MAR unlocks
the steering wheel.
• 3. PANEL INDICATORS
INSTRUMENT DISPLAY PANEL
3. These are the instrument panel warning LED indicators
for all FIAT Tipo/Tempra models. Your vehicle will only
have Panel Indicators relevant to your particular car.
• 4. ELECTRONIC CHECK PANEL
4. The electronic check panel is not fitted to models
with basic trim.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The check panel will not
indicate if the tail light fuses blow at the same
time, or if there is a circuit failure within the panel
display.
SIDE AND HATCHBACK DOORS
When the ignition key is at MAR, the check panel LEDs
g, h, i, I, m and n monitor the light bulbs and fuses.
LEDs a, b, c, d, and e monitor incomplete closure of
the side doors and hatchback.
• Never remove the key when the car is moving.
If you do, the steering wheel will lock the first
time you turn it.
• If the ignition lock has been tampered with or
shows any sign of damage (e.g. attempted theft),
have the lock checked at your nearest FIAT
Service Centre.
M Choke Oil pressure warning
Direction indicators (®) Handbrake engaged
-X: Side lights m Rear window defroster
10 High beam head
lights '•y Injection system warning light
<1* Rear fog lights • Battery warning
A Hazard warning lights A Seat belts not
buckled
m ABS brake warning a Automatic transmission fluid warning
o Brake pad wear warning a Doors not properly closed
Turbo pressure warning Trailer direction indicators
10 Front fog lights a Diesel fuel filter condenstate warning
•515" Diesel heater/glow •515" plugs 3
SWITCHING OFF THE ALARM
1C. Some models
are fitted with an
alarm exclusion
switch, which can
be found inside
the glove
compartment. If
the alarm is faulty
or the remote control batteries are flat:

Fluid levels (if included) are monitored by LEDs f, o and
p, indicating the levels of the fluid reservoirs.
A red LED illuminates at the position on the check panel
corresponding to a side door or a hatchback/tailgate
that is not properly closed.
SIDE AND TAIL LIGHTS
When the side and tail lights are turned on, the check
panel monitors the light bulbs, fuses and circuits.
• LED g monitors the front side lights.
• LED i monitors the tail lights.
If one of the two fuses protecting the following bulbs
blows, LEDs g, i, and m illuminate.
NUMBER PLATE LIGHTS
• LED m indicates when one or both of the number
plate light bulbs have burnt out.
REAR FOG LIGHTS
• When the fog-guard lights are turned on, LED h
monitors the light bulbs.
• When the fuse blows or a circuit malfunction occurs,
LED h illuminates, but not the panel indicator.
STOP LIGHTS
If one or both stop lights burn out, the fuse blows or a
circuit malfunction occurs, LED I or n illuminates when
braking.
• LED n monitors the left stop light.
• LED I monitors the right stop light.
If both bulbs burn out at the same time or brake pedal
switch malfunction occurs, both LEDs I and n
illuminate.
ENGINE OIL LEVEL
• LED f illuminates when the engine oil level is low (key
at MAR,engine not running).
The oil level monitoring system does not operate when
the engine is running. If the oil level warning LED
illuminates when driving, a circuit sensor malfunction
has occurred.
When starting the car on a hill or within 10 minutes of
switching off the engine the warning light may
illuminate (event will be stored in system memory). Start
the engine again on level ground to ensure the oil level
is sufficient.
COOLANT
A low coolant level is indicated by LED o (key at MAR).
The LED also illuminates when a sensor or circuit
malfunction occurs.
WINDSCREEN AND REAR SCREEN WASH LEVELS
• LED p illuminates (key at MAR) when the level in the
windscreen or rear screen wash reservoirs are low.
• The LED also indicates when a circuit or sensor
malfunction occurs.
• 5. HE ATI IMG AMD VENTILATION
CONTROLS
5A. Air volume control
-
Adjust
the dynamic air flow (fan OFF)
by turning the knob up to I.
Continue turning the knob to
the right to increase the air
flow (i.e. fan ON).
5B. Air temperature control -
The temperature will increase
the further you turn the air
temperature knob to the right
(red zone).
HEATING
HEAT DISTRIBUTION
With the air temperature
knob (56) turned to the
red zone and the air
volume control knob (5A)
turned to the desired fan
speed, turn the air
distribution knob (5C) to:
• 2
-
In sunny, cold weather.
• 3
-
For heating to footwell vents.
• 4
-
Demist the windows.
• Also, turn the air volume control knob (5A) to level II
or III.
VENTILATION
• Turn the air distribution control to 5.
• Turn the air temperature adjustment knob fully anti-
clockwise to the blue zone.
• Turn the air volume control knob to the desired fan
speed.
• Turn the air distribution control to 5.
When the car is moving the volume of the air entering
the passenger compartment can be reduced by turning
the fan knob to the left of 1.
DUAL TEMPERATURE
• Turn the air temperature adjustment knob to an
intermediate position.
• Turn the air distribution control knob to 2.
The temperature decreases the
further you turn the temperature control knob to the
left (blue zone).
Warmer air is delivered to the footwell vents and cooler
air to the dashboard vents.

Lubrication and Cooling Circuit
Self-locking nut for screw fastening radiator support bracket to body (M6)....
Flanged screw, radiator support beam to body (M8)
Flanged screw retaining heater (M6)
Clutch
Screw with split safety washer retaining clutch mechanism
(M8)
(M6)
Gearbox Differential
Tapered threaded plug for filling gear case with oil (M22 x 1.5)
External Gearbox Control
Oil pressure switch (M10 x 1.25 tapered)
Braking System
Bolt retaining brake carrier plate to rear suspension arm
(rear drum brakes) (M8)
Bolt retaining caliper support to rear top arm (rear disc plate) (M8)
Bolt retaining rear brake caliper to plate (rear disc plates) (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining front brake caliper to pillar (M10 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining front brake disc and rear brake drum or disc to hub (M8)
Fitting connecting hose to front brake caliper (M10 x 1)
Bleed screw on front brake caliper (M8)
Fitting connecting hose to rear brake caliper (rear disc plates) (M10 x 1)
Bleed screw on rear brake caliper (rear disc plates) (M7)
Bolt with split safety washer retaining brake system bracket assembly (M8)....
Bolt retaining cylinder to rear drum brake carrier plate (M6)
Bleed screw on rear drum brake cylinder (M8)
Male fitting for hoses with flared ends fastening rigid pipe to front and
rear hoses (M10 x 1)
Male fitting for hoses with flared ends fastening rigid pipe to hose on
rear axle (M10 x 1)
Bolt retaining brake fluid reservoir to body (M8)
Nut retaining brake fluid reservoir to body (M6)
Bolt retaining brake fluid reservoir to body (M6)
Male fitting for flared hoses fastening rigid pipe to rear drum brake
cylinder
(M1
Ox 1)
Male fitting for flared hoses fitting brake pipe to pump and cast iron Ip valve
(M10
x
1)
(M12
x
1)
Male fitting for flared hoses fitting brake pipe to 4-way control valve and
aluminium load prop, valve

(M10 x
1)
(M12
x
1)
Load Proportioning Valve Fasteners
Bolt retaining load proportioning valve to bracket (M6)
Self-locking nut for bolt retaining valve spring bracket to rear
anti-roll bar (M6)
Bolt retaining square lever for load proportioning valve adjustment (M8)
Bolt retaining load prop, valve to rail (for Girling ABS) (M8)
Bolt retaining square lever for load prop, valve adjustment (M6)

PART C: VEHICLE RAISED OFF THE GROUND
Bodywork Structure
01
.
Any sharp edges on the external bodywork, caused by damage or corrosion will cause the vehicle to fail.
02 . Check all load bearing areas for corrosion. Open the doors and check the sills inside and out, above and below. Any corrosion in structural metalwork within 30 cm (12 in.) of seat belt mounting, steering and suspension attachment points will cause the vehicle to fail.
Wheels and Tyres
Under the Front of the
Car
You will need to support the front of the car on axle stands with the rear wheels firmly chocked in both directions.
OE . Have your helper turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the steering turns smoothly and that the brake hoses or pipes do not contact the wheel, tyre or any part of the steering or suspension.
TWI
Ob . To pass the test, the tread must be at least 1.6 mm deep throughout a continuous band comprising the central three-quarters of the width of the tread. The Tread Wear Indicators (TWI) will tell you when the limit has been reached, on most tyres.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Tyres are past their best, especially in wet conditions, well before this point is reached!
04 . Check that the front tyres match and that the rear tyres match each other
-
in terms of size and type but not necessarily make. They must be the correct size for the vehicle and the pressures must be correct.
05 . With each wheel off the ground in turn, check the inside and the outside of the tyre wall for cuts, lumps and bulges and check the wheel for damage. Note that tyres deteriorate progressively over a period of time and if they have degraded to this extent, replace them.
07 . Have your assistant hold down the brake pedal firmly. Check each brake flexible hose for bulges or leaks.
o 8. Inspect all the rigid brake pipes underneath the front of the vehicle for corrosion or leaks and also look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake calipers. Rigid fuel pipes need to be checked in the same way.
09 . At each full lock position, check the steering rack rubber gaiters for splits, leaks or loose retaining clips.
o 10. Check the track rod end dust covers to make sure they are in place.
o 11. Inspect each constant velocity joint gaiter
-
both inners and outers
-
for splits or damage. You will have to rotate each wheel to see the gaiters all the way round.
O 12. Check all of the suspension rubber mountings, including the anti-rollbar mountings (when fitted). Take a firm grip on each shock absorber in turn with both hands and try to twist the damper to check for deterioration in the top and bottom mounting bushes.
o 13. Underneath the front wheel arches, check that the shock absorbers are not corroded, that the springs have not cracked and that there are no fluid leaks down the body of the shock absorber.
o 14. While under the front end of the car, check the front of the exhaust system for security of fixing at the manifold, for corrosion and secure fixing to the mounting points.
o 15. Preferably working with a helper, grasp each front road wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and try rocking the wheel. Look for movement or wear at the suspension ball joints, suspension mountings, steering mountings and at the wheel bearing
-
look for movement between the wheel and hub. Repeat the test by grasping the road wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and rocking once more.
o 16. Spin each wheel and check for noise or roughness in the wheel bearing and binding in either the wheel bearing or the brake.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't forget that on front wheel drive cars, the gearbox must be in neutral. There will be a certain amount of noise and drag from the drivetrain components.
O 17. If you suspect wear at any of the suspension points, try levering with a screwdriver to see whether or not you can confirm any movement in that area.
o 18. Vehicles fitted with other suspension types such as hydraulic suspension, torsion bar suspension etc. need to be checked in a similar way with the additional point that there must be no fluid leaks or damaged pipes on vehicles with hydraulic suspension.
Underneath the Rear
of the Car
O 19. Inspect the rear springs for security at their mounting points and for cracks, severe corrosion or damage.
o 20. Check the rear shock absorbers in the same way as the checks carried out for the fronts.
o 21. Check all rear suspension mounting points, including the rubbers to any locating rods or anti-rollbar that may be fitted.
O 22. Check all of the flexible and rigid brake pipes and the fuel pipes just as for the front of the vehicle.
30

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.