1988 FIAT TEMPRA oil temperature

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

and explosions. Do not allow resin or 2-pack adhesive hardener,
or that supplied with filler or 2-pack stopper, to come into
contact with skin or eyes. Read carefully the safety notes
supplied on the can, tube or packaging and always wear
impervious gloves and goggles when working with them.
Fluoroelastomers
Fluoroelastomers are commonly used for oil seals, wiring and
cabling, bearing surfaces, gaskets, diaphragms, hoses and '0'
rings. If they are subjected to temperatures greater than 315
degrees C, they will decompose and can be potentially
hazardous. Some decomposition may occur at temperatures
above 200 degrees C, and it is obvious that when a car has
been in a fire or has been dismantled with the assistance of a
cutting torch or blow torch, the fluoroelastomers can
decompose in the manner indicated above.
According to the Health and Safety Executive, "Skin contact
with this liquid or decomposition residues can cause painful and
penetrating burns. Permanent irreversible skin and tissue
damage can occur". Damage can also be caused to eyes or by
the inhalation of fumes created as fluoroelastomers are burned
or heated.
After a vehicle has been exposed to fire or high temperatures:
1. Do not touch blackened or charred seals or equipment.
2. Preferably, don't handle parts containing decomposed
fluoroelastomers, but if you must, wear goggles and PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) or neoprene protective gloves whilst doing
so. Never handle such parts unless they are completely cool.
3. Contaminated parts, residues, materials and clothing,
including protective clothing and gloves, should be disposed of
by an approved contractor to landfill or by incineration
according to national or local regulations. Oil seals, gaskets and
'0' rings, along with contaminated material, must not
be burned.
1. Always have a fire extinguisher of the correct type at arm's
length when working on the fuel system. If you do have a fire,
DON'T PANIC. Use the extinguisher effectively by directing it at
the base of the fire.
2. NEVER use a naked flame anywhere in the workplace.
3. KEEP your inspection lamp well away from any source of
petrol (gasoline) such as when disconnecting a carburettor float
bowl or fuel line.
4. NEVER use petrol (gasoline) to clean parts. Use paraffin
(kerosene), white spirits, or, a proprietary degreaser.
5. NO SMOKING. There's a risk of fire or of transferring
dangerous substances to your mouth and, in any case, ash
falling into mechanical components is to be avoided.
FACT FILE: FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CARS
• Whenever you have to raise a wheel off the
ground and turn it by hand, always ensure that
the opposite-side's wheel to the one being lifted is
also off the ground and free to turn and that both wheels remaining
on the ground are held by the parking brake (if possible) and
securely chocked in both directions.
• ALWAYS have the gearbox in neutral (or 'N' in the case of
automatics). In the case of
some
4 wheel drive automatics and those
with permanent 4WD, it is necessary to disengage the 4WD system
by special means.
• Consult your handbook or seek advice from your main dealer.
6. BE METHODICAL in everything you do, use common sense,
and think of safety at all times.
ENVIRONMENT FIRST!
The used oil from the sump of
just
one car
can
cover
an
area of
water the size of two football pitches, cutting off the oxygen
supply
and
harming swans, ducks, fish and other river lift.
When you drain your engine oil
-
don't oil the drain!
Pouring oil
down the
drain will
cause
pollution. It is
also an
offense.
Don't mix used
oil with other
materials, such
as paint and
solvents,
because this
makes
recycling
difficult.
Take used oil
to an oil
recycling bank.
Telephone
FREE on 0800 663366 to find the location of your nearest oil
bank, or contact you local authority recycling officer.
OIL POLLUTES WATER
USE YOUR BRAIN-
NOT THE DRAIN!

Fluid levels (if included) are monitored by LEDs f, o and
p, indicating the levels of the fluid reservoirs.
A red LED illuminates at the position on the check panel
corresponding to a side door or a hatchback/tailgate
that is not properly closed.
SIDE AND TAIL LIGHTS
When the side and tail lights are turned on, the check
panel monitors the light bulbs, fuses and circuits.
• LED g monitors the front side lights.
• LED i monitors the tail lights.
If one of the two fuses protecting the following bulbs
blows, LEDs g, i, and m illuminate.
NUMBER PLATE LIGHTS
• LED m indicates when one or both of the number
plate light bulbs have burnt out.
REAR FOG LIGHTS
• When the fog-guard lights are turned on, LED h
monitors the light bulbs.
• When the fuse blows or a circuit malfunction occurs,
LED h illuminates, but not the panel indicator.
STOP LIGHTS
If one or both stop lights burn out, the fuse blows or a
circuit malfunction occurs, LED I or n illuminates when
braking.
• LED n monitors the left stop light.
• LED I monitors the right stop light.
If both bulbs burn out at the same time or brake pedal
switch malfunction occurs, both LEDs I and n
illuminate.
ENGINE OIL LEVEL
• LED f illuminates when the engine oil level is low (key
at MAR,engine not running).
The oil level monitoring system does not operate when
the engine is running. If the oil level warning LED
illuminates when driving, a circuit sensor malfunction
has occurred.
When starting the car on a hill or within 10 minutes of
switching off the engine the warning light may
illuminate (event will be stored in system memory). Start
the engine again on level ground to ensure the oil level
is sufficient.
COOLANT
A low coolant level is indicated by LED o (key at MAR).
The LED also illuminates when a sensor or circuit
malfunction occurs.
WINDSCREEN AND REAR SCREEN WASH LEVELS
• LED p illuminates (key at MAR) when the level in the
windscreen or rear screen wash reservoirs are low.
• The LED also indicates when a circuit or sensor
malfunction occurs.
• 5. HE ATI IMG AMD VENTILATION
CONTROLS
5A. Air volume control
-
Adjust
the dynamic air flow (fan OFF)
by turning the knob up to I.
Continue turning the knob to
the right to increase the air
flow (i.e. fan ON).
5B. Air temperature control -
The temperature will increase
the further you turn the air
temperature knob to the right
(red zone).
HEATING
HEAT DISTRIBUTION
With the air temperature
knob (56) turned to the
red zone and the air
volume control knob (5A)
turned to the desired fan
speed, turn the air
distribution knob (5C) to:
• 2
-
In sunny, cold weather.
• 3
-
For heating to footwell vents.
• 4
-
Demist the windows.
• Also, turn the air volume control knob (5A) to level II
or III.
VENTILATION
• Turn the air distribution control to 5.
• Turn the air temperature adjustment knob fully anti-
clockwise to the blue zone.
• Turn the air volume control knob to the desired fan
speed.
• Turn the air distribution control to 5.
When the car is moving the volume of the air entering
the passenger compartment can be reduced by turning
the fan knob to the left of 1.
DUAL TEMPERATURE
• Turn the air temperature adjustment knob to an
intermediate position.
• Turn the air distribution control knob to 2.
The temperature decreases the
further you turn the temperature control knob to the
left (blue zone).
Warmer air is delivered to the footwell vents and cooler
air to the dashboard vents.

PART F: TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Key for engine types and sizes: A
-
1372cc; B
-
1581cc;
C
-
1697cc Diesel; D
-
1929cc Diesel; E
-
1929cc Turbo Diesel.
Engine
Screw retaining caps to crankcase (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining intermediate and central caps to crankcase (M12 x 1.25)...
Self-locking screw retaining front and rear caps to crankcase (M12 x 1.25)
Bolt, cylinder head to engine block (M10 x 1.25)
IMPORTANT NOTE: All torque settings shown in
Newton-meters (Nm). Bolt, nut or screw sizes in
brackets in left-hand column.
Bolt, cylinder head to engine block (M12 x 1.25)
Bolts, top to bottom cylinder head (M8)
Nut for connecting rod cap retaining bolt (M9 x 1)
Screw, connecting rod cap (M10 x 1)
Screw retaining engine vent to crankcase
(M8)
(M8)
Screw retaining front cover to crankcase
(MlOx 1.25)
(M8)
Bolt retaining rear cover (flywheel side) to crankcase (M6)
Nut retaining inlet and exhaust ducts to cylinder head
(M8)
(M8)
Screw, flywheel to crankshaft
(M10x 1.25)
(M12
x
1.25)
Lower belt cover retaining screw (M8)
Screw, damping flywheel to drive gear (M8)
Nut retaining auxiliary drive pulley to crankshaft (M20 x 1.25)
Screw retaining drive shaft to crankshaft (*) (M14 x 1.5 left)
Screw, timing gears
(M10x 1.25)
(M12x 1.25)
Belt tensioner retaining bolt
(M8)
(M10x 1.25)
Fixed belt tensioner retaining screw (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining auxiliary component driven gear (oil pump) (M10 x 1.25)
Nut for camshaft cap retaining stud (M8)
Nut retaining camshaft and air vacuum pump end mounts (M8)
Combustion prechamber retaining ring (M32 x 1.5)
Nut, injection pump stud (M8)
Screw, injection pump (M8)
Nut fastening flexible block to coolant pump case (M12 x 1.25)
Nut, injection pump gear (M12 x 1.75)
Screw retaining reaction bracket to oil filter support and injection pump (M8).
Top retaining screw or nut, oil filter support and injection pump (M12 x 1.25)
Lower retaining screw, oil filter support and injection pump (M10 x 1.25)
Complete injector (M24 x 2)
Glow plugs (M12 x 1.25)
Nuts retaining fuel delivery line to injection pump and injector (M12 x 1.25)...
Bolt, coolant pump to engine block (M8 x 1)
Bolt retaining cover and bracket to coolant pump case (M8)
Oil pressure switch (M14 x 1.5)
Coolant temperature sender unit
(M16 x 1.5 tapered)
(M18x 1.5 tapered)
Coolant temperature thermal switch (M16 x 1.5 tapered)
(*) The bolt need not be greased.
A B C D E Torque (Nm)
• • 80
• • • 113
• • • 113
• • 40
+
90 degrees
+ 90 deqrees
• • • 100
+
90 degrees
+ 90 deqrees
• • 28
• • 51
• • • 25 + 50 deqrees
• •
• • •
25
20
• • 50
25
• 10
• •
• • •
28
25
• •
• • •
83
142
• • 25
• • • 28
• • 155
• • • 190
• •
• • •
83
118
• •
• • •
25
44
• • • 44
• • 83
• • • 19
• • • 19
• • • 118
• • • 25
• • • 25
• • 80
• • • 49
• • • 29
• • • 98
• • • 71
• • • 55
• • • 15
• • • 29
• • • 25
• • • 23
32
• •
• • • 34
30
• • 30
expert22 fl/i* http://rutracker.org 23

Thermal valve on inlet manifold
(M10 x 1.25 tapered)
(M8 x 1.25 tapered)
Oil pressure sending unit (M14 x 1.5)
Oil temperature sender unit (M14 x 1.5 tapered)....
Oil level sending unit (M12 x 1.25)
Engine oil sump retaining bolt/nut (M6)
Screw retaining oil sealing cover to crankcase (M6)
Nut retaining manifold support bracket (M8)
Nut retaining turbine to exhaust manifold (M8)
Air pressure switch on inlet manifold (M12 x 1.5)...
Power Unit Mounting
ENGINE SIDE
Screw (with long flange) retaining flexible block to rail (M8)
Self-locking nut with plastic ring (for through screw) retaining flexible block
to engine bracket (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining flexible block supporting bracket to crankcase
(M10. 1.25)
(M12 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining flexible block to engine bracket (M12 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining power unit suspension link (M10 x 1.25)
GEARBOX SIDE
Screw (with wide flange) retaining flexible block to rail (M8)
Flanged screws retaining support to plate on gearbox (M10 x 1.25)
Self-locking nut with plastic ring (for through screw) retaining flexible block
to gearbox side bracket (M10 x 1.25)
Flanged screw retaining flexible block to gearbox side bracket (M12 x 1.25).
DIFFERENTIAL SIDE
Screw with flange unit retaining elastic block to beam (M8)
Self-locking nut retaining bracket to gearbox support
(M8)
(M12 x 1.25)
Screw retaining bracket brace to support on gear case (M10 x 1.25)
Screw, rubber block to bracket (M12 x 1.25)
Exhaust
Nut retaining flange to exhaust manifold (M8)
Nuts for bolts fastening collars joining exhaust pipe sections (M10 x 1.25)...
Bolt retaining exhaust pipe sleeve to turbine (M8)
Bolt retaining front exhaust pipe section to gearbox (M8)
Metex joint to nut and stud manifold to plate and spring retainer (M8)
Nut for bolt anchoring first exhaust pipe section (M8)
Nut retaining bracket anchoring first exhaust pipe section (M12 x 1.25)
Screw with normal flange retaining exhaust pipe terminal block
support bracket (M8)
Fuel Circuit
Bolt (with wide flange) retaining tank and fitting to body (M8)
Ring retaining delivery, recirculation and vent fitting mounts to tank
(131 x 6-Trapezoid thread)
Screw (with wide flange) retaining fuel filter support bracket (M8)

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

SAFETY FIRST! • Step 7:
Disconnect the
electrical leads from
the following: the
inlet manifold
• Step 2: Disconnect both battery leads, negative
terminal first.
Q Step 3: Drain the cooling system and depressurise the
fuel system, if yours is a fuel injection engine
-
see PART
F:

FUEL AND EXHAUST
• Step 6B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable (a),
the idle speed check
actuator (b) and the
injector supply (c).
• Step 8: Detach
the exhaust
downpipe from the
manifold.
• Step 9: Remove
the dipstick
(arrowed) and the
cylinder head
coolant temperature
sensor (arrowed).
• Step 10: Also remove all the HT leads (along with the
distributor cap). Place them to one side.
• Step 11: Undo the brake servo hose from the manifold.
Q Step 4: Remove the air cleaner by releasing the spring
clips (a) at the front of the unit and the screw on the top face
(b) and disconnect the hoses
Remove the oil vapour
recovery pipe clips from beneath the rear of the housing, once
it is free to lift up.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the
cylinder head and the inlet tract or the SPI injector unit, as
appropriate and blank off with a bolt of suitable size.
• Step 6A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable
from its idler and
the choke cable
from its mounting.
Q Step 12: Remove the
water hoses connected to
the inlet manifold and
thermostat.
• Step 13 A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES. Disconnect the
fuel pipe from the carbu-
rettor and both pipes
from the fuel pump.
(Label both the pipes and
stubs so that they will be
reconnected the
right way round.)
• Step 13B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the fuel
supply and return
hoses from the
injector unit housing
(a). Plug the ends.
• Step 14A: CARBURETTOR ENGINES. Disconnect the
distributor vacuum pipe and oil vapour pipes from the carbu-
rettor.
vacuum sensor
(arrowed), the
manifold coolant
temperature sensors
(arrowed) and the
throttle position
switch and any
other leads which your engine may have.