1988 FIAT TEMPRA catalytic converter

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

EMERGENCY STARTING
To release the spare
wheel, jack and tool kit:
16A. Undo strap A to
release the jack from the support. Unscrew nut B, to
remove the spare wheel.
16B. Release the jack from the tool stand by lifting tab C.
The arrangement of the tools in their holder might have
one of the configurations shown in illustration 16B.
• 17. RAISING
THE VEHICLE
17A. To raise the vehicle,
position the jack under
the side member, about
20 cm from the wheel
arch. Turn the jack
handle until the its
grooved head (see inset)
fits the flange at the base of the sill.
REMOVING A WHEEL
17B. Loosen all the wheel bolts in the
order shown.
• Lift the car until the wheel is about
25 mm
(1
in.) off the ground.
• The hub cap is secured by only three wheel bolts.
• Remove the hub cap, then unscrew the fourth wheel
bolt, and remove the wheel.
• Put the spare wheel on, making sure that the aligning
peg or pegs on the hub fits into the hole/s in the rim.
• Attach the wheel with a single bolt and then put the
wheel cover back on so that the largest hole fits over
the bolt holding on the wheel. Screw in the other three
bolts, which also hold on the wheel cover.
• Lower the car and remove the jack. Tighten the wheel
bolts evenly in a criss-cross fashion, as shown in
illustration 17C.
RAISING THE VEHICLE WITH A TROLLEY JACK
• 17C. FROM THE FRONT
-
Place a hardwood board
between the jack and the car, see inset. The jack must
ONLY be positioned under the gearbox case support on
the side of the differential gears.
• 17D. FROM THE REAR
-
Put a hardwood board
between the jack and the car ONLY at the back of the
spare wheel housing.
• 18. ENGINE STARTING
JUMP STARTING YOUR CAR
Choose a fully charged battery with the same or higher
capacity than the flat battery in your car, then ...
• Make sure that the car with the flat battery's electrical
equipment has its ignition turned OFF, and that the
ignition keys are removed.
18. • Connect
one of the jump
lead clamps to
the positive
battery post of
your flat
battery. Then
clamp the other
end of the same
lead on to the positive post of the second (charged)
battery.
• Connect one end of the second jump lead to the
negative pole of the charged battery, and attach the
other end to the metal terminal (as shown) of the earth
cable from your car's flat battery.
• Run the engine of the car with the charged battery at
a medium to slow speed.
• Start the engine of the car with the flat battery, and
run the engines of both cars for about three minutes.
• To reduce voltage peaks when disconnecting the
jump leads, turn on the air fan and the heated rear
screen of the car that had the flat battery.
• Remove the jump leads, starting with the negative
clamp connected to the car with the flat battery's earth.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When disconnecting the jump
leads DO NOT switch on the headlights in place of
the heated rear screen, as the peak voltage may
blow the headlight bulbs.
BUMP STARTING YOUR CAR
IMPORTANT NOTES: 1) Never bump start a car
fitted with a catalytic converter, as the sudden rush
of unburnt fuel into the catalytic converter could
damage the converter beyond repair.
2) On models fitted with automatic transmission
bump starting is not possible.
3) Ensure that the key is in the ignition and is
turned to MAR while the car is being pushed, or
the steering wheel will lock.
To bump start a car:
• Place the key in the ignition and turn to MAR.
• Engage a medium gear (2nd or 3rd), NOT REVERSE.
• Hold the clutch pedal down while someone pushes.
• When the pushed car has reached a fair speed, with
the car still in gear, release the clutch pedal.
• The engine should now turn over and start running.
Depress the clutch and keep the car running.
16

October 1991 2.0 i.e. 16v introduced, with 1995cc, 16 valve
high-performance DOHC engine, catalytic converter, sports
suspension, front and rear disc brakes. ABS available as
option.
January 1992 Existing Tipo models lightly facelifted and
redesignated 1.4 Formula, 1.45, 1.6S, 1.6SX, 1.9TD SX,
1.8 i.e. SX. 1.7D discontinued. SX versions with digital
instruments.
Tempra 1.9 TDS (turbo diesel) Station Wagon introduced. 1.4
and 1.9D saloons discontinued.
May 1992 Tempra 1.8 i.e. SX Saloon and Station Wagon
discontinued.
June 1992 Tempra 2.0 i.e. SX saloon and station wagon
models introduced, with high performance 1995cc DOHC fuel
injected engine, catalytic converter and disc brakes front and
rear.
Tipo 1.4 and all Tipo and Tempra 1.6 models (except Selecta)
now with a catalytic converter and fuel injection in place of
Weber twin-choke carburettor. Designated i.e. in badging.
December 1992 Tipo 1.8 i.e. and 1.6 Selecta discontinued.
February 1993 Tipo 2.0 i.e. GT introduced. Slightly lower
performance and spec, version of the 16v model.
July 1993 Tipo 1.4 now available as a 3-door or 5-door
hatchback. 2.0 i.e. 16v now only available as 3-door. Tipo 2.0
i.e. GT replaced by similar spec. 2.0 i.e. SLX.
Tempra 2.0 i.e. SX saloons and estates now only available
with auto, gearbox. Otherwise, SX models become known as
SLX, with colour-coded mirrors and ABS brakes. Most Tempras
now with body-coloured bumpers. 1.9D (non turbo Diesel re-
introduced).
All Tipo and Tempra models now with revised front-end
styling
-
narrower headlights and revised grille. Improved crash
protection, including side impact beams, safety steering wheel
and uprated brakes. Power steering, central locking, electric
windows all standard.
February 1994 Tipo 1.7 non-turbo diesel re-introduced as
1.7 DS.
May 1994 Tempra 1.9DS Station Wagon introduced.
September 1994 Most models available with driver's airbag,
fire prevention system and seat belt pre-tensioners.
December 1994 Tempra 1.6 i.e. versions get M.P.I, engine.
February/March 1995 All models with VIN number window
etching and immobiliser standard on all Tempra petrol models.
October 1995 Immobiliser fitted to Tempra D and TD models.
End of 1995 Tipo discontinued.
Mid-1996 Tempra discontinued.
PART B: VITAL STATISTICS
All Tipo models
-
55 litres, except petrol with catalytic converter
- 51
litres.
All Tempra models
-
65 litres, except petrol with catalytic converter
-
62 litres.
Wheels and Tyres
ENGINE PRESSED STEEL RADIAL TYRE PRESSURES (cold)
WHEEL RIM TYPE TUBELESS FRONT REAR
TYRE TYPE average load heavy load average load heavy load
TIPO MODELS
1.4 and 1.6 Petrol 5.00B x 13H 165/70R13S 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1697 Diesel 5.00B x 13H 165/70R 13S 2.1 bar/30 psi 2.1 bar/30 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
Turbo D 5.5J x 14H
175/65 R
14T 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi
1.4 i.e./1.6 i.e. (1993-on) 5.5J x 14H
165/65 R
14T 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1.7D (1993-on) 5.5J x 14H 165/65R 14T 2.1 bar/30 psi 2.1 bar/30 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
Option
-
certain models 5.5J x 14AH2 185/60R 14H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi
TEMPRA MODELS
Early 1.4 and 1.6
Saloons 5.00B x 13H 165/70R 13S/T 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1.6 SX Saloon 5.5J x 14H 165/65R 14T 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1.9D/1.9 TD Saloon
and Late 1.6 i.e. 5.5J x 14H 175/65R 14T/H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi
1.6/1.9D/1.9TD
Station Wagons 5.5J x 14H 175/65R 14H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 3.0 bar/44 psi
Option for Station 5.5J x 14H or AH2 185/60 R 14H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 3.0 bar/44 psi
Wagons (alloy)
SPARE WHEEL
-
ALL TIPO AND TEMPRA MODELS (speed limit 50 mph)
Tempra TD Saloon and
ALL Station Wagons 4.00B x 14H 105/70 B14 4.2
bar/61
psi
All other models 4.00Bx14H 135/80 B14 2.8
bar/41
psi

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.

26B. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the
tensioning nut (A) and
the alternator pivot (B),
on all models. (These
are two typical
layouts.)
Use a length of wood
to pivot the alternator
away from the engine
block but take great
care not to damage the
alternator casing.
Tighten the nuts/bolts
when the tension is correct.
RIBBED BELTS ONLY
If your vehicle is fitted with a ribbed belt, pivot the alternator
as described above and tighten it when you can just twist the
belt by 1/4 turn in the middle of its longest run.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Belt tension should only be adjusted when the engine
is cold.
• After adjustment, run the engine for 15 to 30 seconds,
to allow the belt to bed-in, then check again.
• Experience mechanics claim that belts often go slack
when the engine heats up, producing belt squeal.
• If this happens on your vehicle, adjust the belt again
when the engine is hot. Wear industrial leather gloves
and long-sleeved overalls and take very great care not to
burn yourself on the hot engine or exhaust.
If there is an auxiliary unit, such as an air conditioning pump,
driven by a separate drive belt, examine and adjust it as
described here.
Q Job 27. Check electric fan operation.
Drive the car until it is at normal operating temperature. Park
outdoors and, with the gearbox in neutral (or 'P' in the case of
an automatic) leave the engine running. At just above normal
temperature the electric cooling fan should come on, and
then go off again when the temperature drops. Refer to your
temperature gauge, if fitted. If the fan doesn't behave, check
the thermo-switch on the radiator, along with all connections
and wires in its circuit with the fan motor. See Job 13 and
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
• Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test.
DIAGNOSTIC TEST
28A. Have your FIAT dealer
carry out a diagnostic test,
plugging his tester into the
diagnostic socket tucked away
at the front of the passenger-
side footwell.
EMISSIONS TESTS
Vehicles fitted with the Mono-Jetronic fuel injection system
are not fitted with adjustment screws. The system is self-
regulating. However, specified annual checks carried out with
an exhaust gas analyser will provide essential information on
the condition of the injection/ignition system, the catalytic
converter and the engine itself.
28B. The checks are carried out twice: once with the test
sensor at least 300 mm into the end section of the exhaust
pipe (a). (If the shape of the end section of the exhaust pipe is
such that the sensor cannot be completely introduced, a
special extension pipe must be added ensuring that the joint
with the car's tail-pipe is sealed.); the second after undoing
the cap or nut on the exhaust pipe upstream of the catalytic
converter (b).
The following table shows the test limits for carbon monoxide,
unburned hydrocarbons (in parts per million) and carbon
dioxide:
CO (%) HC (p.p.m.) C02(%)
Upstream of the catalyzer (a) 0,4 -h 1 500/600* >12
Downstream of the catalyzer (b)
=£
0,35 =s 90 >13
* FIAT's figures vary.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The engine must be at its normal
operating temperature and normal tick-over speed.
• if the percentage concentration of CO upstream of the
catalytic converter is not within the limits in the table,
check:
• the Lambda sensor
-
see Job 37.
• air penetration around the Lambda sensor housing.
• faults in the ignition or injection systems. (First try
renewing the spark plugs, distributor cap and HT leads.)
If, at the same time, the concentration of hydrocarbons
is not less than 500/600 parts per million (FIAT'S figures
vary), check:
• the ignition timing (see Job 25).
• the valve clearances (see Job 9).
• the valve gear timing (see Job 12).
• the engine compression. (You will need to remove the
spark plugs, fit a compresson tester to each plug
aperture in turn and crank the engine. See the FACT FILE
on page 51.)

28C. With very latest
'distributorless' system,
disconnect the multi-plug
from the base of the 'black
box'.
28D. With the two earlier
systems, disconnect the
multi-plug leading to the
distributor/control unit
from the ignition coil
behind the battery.
FACT FILE: CRANKING AN ENGINE
WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION
Severe damage can be
caused to the ignition
system if the engine is
cranked with plugs/leads
removed
-
and a severe
electric shock can be
experienced.
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
SAFETY FIRST!

Always
wear impervious gloves so that fuel cannot

come
in contact with your
skin.
It can induce cancer.
Q Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks.
Check the fuel lines from the fuel tank and into the engine
compartment, looking for signs of chafing, splits and perishing

of the
rubber and plastic parts. Ensure any worm-drive hose

clips used
on the connections are firm and secure.
Q Job 30. Change petrol air filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the HC reading when measured at
the end of the exhaust pipe is outside of the recom-
mended limit while that measured upstream of the
catalytic converter is OK, the cat. is almost certainly
faulty. Have it double-checked by your dealer before
replacing it
-
an expensive component!
30C. Pull on the
tabs
-
and watch
that the springs
don't fall on the
floor as you release
the catches!
30D. Lower the
filter cover and lift
out the filter
element.
31B. If you want to
take the cover right
off, you will have to
unscrew the air
hose clamp
(arrowed). Remove
and replace the
filter element (A).
• Job 31.
Change diesel
air filter.
31A. Take out the
four screws
(arrowed) and lift
off the cover (B). 30B. ...and release

the two
fasteners

(a) and the
two

spring clips
(b).
30A. Unscrew the

two
screws
(arrowed)...
51

CHOKE (MANUAL) FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
Move the choke control lever by hand to the end of its travel
and hold it there. The main butterfly aperture (A) should now
be about 1.1 mm. If not, slacken the lock-nut (3), regulate the
adjustment screw (1), and retighten the lock-nut.
AUTOMATIC ANTI-FLOODING DEVICE ADJUSTMENT
With the choke control lever still at the end of its travel as
described in the previous paragraph, the strangler butterfly
aperture (B) should be between 3 and 3.5 mm. If not, regulate
the adjustment screw (2).
FUEL INJECTION MODELS
The idle speed and mixture settings are controlled by the
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) which is 'self-learning' and is
programmed to adjust itself to give the ideal settings under all
conditions. No manual adjustment is possible, nor provided
for. If there is a problem, see Job 29 You may need to take
your car to a FIAT dealer, with the appropriate diagnostic
equipment.
35D. At each service interval, the accelerator pivot (A).
35E. ...should be lubri-
cated with a dab of
TUTELA MRM2
grease.
The ACCELERATOR
LINKAGE must be
adjusted correctly if
the Mono-Jetronic
injection system is to operate smoothly and correctly.
• Disconnect the rod (1) from the lever (2). The pulley (3)
should now be against its closed stop.
• Check that the accelerator cable is not loose, but neither
should it be taut, and check that there is no free play in the
accelerator pedal.
• If necessary, adjust the accelerator cable by slackening the
lock-nut (B) and turning the adjuster nut (C) until the cable is
correctly tensioned. Then retighten the lock-nut.
Now reconnect the rod to the lever on the fuel injection unit
and let the engine warm up until the cooling fan has cut in at
least twice, then turn the engine off.
• With the accelerator pedal released check that the
clearance between the levers (2) and (4) is between 0.2 and
0.5 mm.
• If necessary, loosen the lockouts (5) and (6). Use a spanner
on the adjuster nut (7) to tighten or loosen the rod (1) until
the clearance is between 0.2 and 0.5 mm.
• Retighten the adjuster nuts (5) and (6).
• Finally, make sure that with the accelerator pedal
completely depressed, the butterfly in the fuel injection unit is
fully open.
• If not, the accelerator cable may be too taut or the
clearance between the levers (2) and (4) may be re-adjusted,
keeping them within the acceptable tolerances.
Q Job 36. Check emission control systems.
PETROL INJECTION MODELS ONLY
36A. On petrol-
injected Tipos and
Tempras, sophisti-
cated emission
control equipment is
fitted and must be
tested with a proper
emissions tester.
FACT FILE: EMISSION CONTROL
SYSTEM
36B. The main features of the system are:
• an Electronic Control Module Unit or (ECU) (1) -
the 'computer brain', which is programmed to alter the
car's fuel and ignition settings according to information
received from various sensors.
• a catalytic converter (2) in the exhaust system, to
convert CO and other gases to less harmful gases.
• a Lambda sensor (3) in the exhaust manifold or front
pipe (according to model) to detect the 'tune' of the
exhaust gases and give a signal to the ECU.
• a petrol evaporation control system, to cut down on
petrol vapour emissions from the fuel tank.
• part 4 is the 'upstream' emission test point. See Job
29.

ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE: The ECU is not an item
that requires any servicing. If you think it might be faulty, ask
your FIAT dealer or fuel injection specialist to check it for you.
This must be done by someone with the correct FIAT plug-in
diagnostic equipment and data.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER: The CAT is not serviceable. If it
fails, you will be told at the MoT test. Replacement is
expensive, so we recommend you obtain a second opinion
before replacing the 'cat'.
LAMBDA SENSOR: For information concerning the sensor,

see
Job
37.

I' sensor is a simple job (see
Chapter 6, Repairs and
Replacements, PART F: FUEL AND EXHAUST), but it
can only be tested by your FIAT dealer with the correct
equipment
• If the sensor is faulty, have it renewed by your
dealer.
• Lambda sensors are very delicate and easily
damaged. It is not likely that you would be able to
return one to the supplier if you fitted it yourself.
• Lambda sensors are only fitted to cars with a
catalytic converter.
• Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed.
To accurately check and adjust the diesel's idle speed you
need a diesel-specific rev-counter. If you're happy with the idle
speed, leave well alone. But if you're convinced the idle is
incorrect, it's best to take the car to a FIAT dealer. If you wish
to adjust the speed yourself, get the engine to normal
operating temperature, and check there is some free play in
the accelerator cable before proceeding.
ADJUSTMENT
-
BOSCH PUMP
D INSIDE INFORMATION: If the canister is flooded with
petrol, it is probable that one of the purge valves or
purge valve floats is faulty. Get this investigated and
rectified by a FIAT dealer. If the engine cuts out and then
restarts after a while, it could be the breather hose
valve, fitted under the fuel filler neck. This one-way
valve allows air to enter the tank as the fuel level falls,
otherwise an air lock can prevent fuel reaching the
engine. To test the valve, take off the pipe clips, remove
the valve and test it as for the canister one-way valve,
above. It should allow air to pass into the tank, but not
the other way. H
Q Job 37. Check Lambda sensor.
PETROL INJECTION MODELS ONLY
For
a
description of how the sensor works, see Job 36, FACT
FILE: EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM. It should be checked at
the recommended interval
-
the cost of checking and
replacing the sensor is far less than that of having to replace
the catalytic converter because it has been polluted due to a
sensor fault.
38A. Adjust the idle
speed, which
should be approxi-
mately 800 rpm, by
slackening the lock-
nut of the adjuster
screw (1) then
turning the screw
inwards to increase
the speed
-
or
outwards to
decrease. Retighten the lock-nut when the speed is correct.
ADJUSTMENT
-
LUCAS/ROTODIESEL/CAV PUMP
38B. Adjust the idle speed, which should be approximately
800 rpm, by slackening the lock-nut of the adjuster screw (A)
and turning the screw to give the desired speed. Retighten the
lock-nut, then rev the engine high and allow it to return to
idle. If it goes below idle speed (i.e. it threatens to stall, or
does stall), or if it decelerates too slowly, slacken the lock-nut
of the adjuster screw (B), adjust it and check the deceleration
again. Repeat as necessary to achieve comfortable deceler-
ation without stalling, then tighten the lock-nut.
36C. CHARCOAL
CANISTER: This unit is
located behind the car's
front panel, and does not
need regular servicing.
Check the canister one-
way valve (see Chapter

6,
Repairs and
Replacements, Part F,

FUEL
AND EXHAUST
for illustration) by discon-
necting it and trying to
blow through both ends.
You should only be able
to blow air towards the
canister, not away from
it. If the valve is faulty,
renew it, making sure
that it
is
fitted the right way round.