Screw with broad flange retaining rear flexible block to body (M12 x 1.25)..
Nut for stud retaining rear swinging arm to subframe (M16 x 1.5)
Nut for screw retaining lower damper to suspension (M12 x 1.25)
Screw retaining top of damper to mount (M10 x 1.25)
Nut for pivot pin retaining rear hub (M22 x 1.5)
Bolt retaining stabilizer bar to rear suspension arm (M10 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining stabilizer bar support plate to rear suspension arm (M8)
Wheel stud (M12 x 1.25)
Nut with self-locking flange retaining headlight alignment corrector
receiver to rear suspension (M8)
Nut with self-locking flange retaining lower receiver rod pin (M6)
Bolt with normal notched flange retaining automatic headlight
alignment device mount (M8)
Bolt with normal notched flange retaining receiver connection bracket with
rear suspension wishbone (M6)
Nut for bolt retaining square lever to wishbone (M8)
A B c D E Torque (Nm)
• • • • • 108
• • • • • 150
• • • • • 88
• • • • • 60
• • • • • 280
• • • • • 56
• • • • • 28
• • • • • 86
• • • • • 6.4
• • • • • 3.9
• • • • • 12
• • • • • 3.9
• • • • • 15
PART G: IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS
Finding the Numbers
G1: There are four sets of identification numbers in all. First,
there is the Vehicle Identification (V.I.N.) Number, or chassis
number (a). Second, is the engine number. Position (b) is the
engine number position on all engines; the engine illustrated
is
the 1.4 and 1.6 petrol engine. Also, see G4 and G5.
Third, there is the Model and Data Plate (c). See G3.
G2: Fourth, you will
need the Paint
Identification Plate
if you need to buy
paint. You'll find it
on the inside of the
hatchback door.
The numbers
shown on the plate
give the following
information: 1 -
Paint manufacturer; 2
-
Colour name; 3
-
Colour code;
4
-
Respray and touch-up code.
Vehicle Identification Numbers
See illustration G1, part a. There are two groups of codes
which are unique to your car. You should never buy a car
without checking first that the V.I.N, shown on the car matches
that on the vehicle registration document. The vehicle code is
also shown at position c on the Model and Data Plate and the
chassis serial number is also shown at position a.
Model and Data Plate
G3: The numbers
stamped on the
plate stand for the
following:
A
-
Manufacturer;
B
-
Homologation
number; C
-
Vehicle
identity code;
D
-
Chassis serial
number;
E
-
Maximum
authorised weight of vehicle, fully laden; F
-
Maximum autho-
rised weight of vehicle, fully laden plus trailer; G
-
Maximum
authorised weight on front axle; H
-
Maximum authorised
weight on rear axle; I
-
Engine type; L
-
Body code (see below);
M - Number for buying spares; N
-
Smoke opacity index
(diesel engines only).
Engine
Numbers
G4: On all petrol engines,
the number is on the top
of the crankcase at the
gearbox end.
G5: On diesel engines, look
on the crankcase, above the
water pump housing.
1
2
3
4
G2
r
B
r
B I B I
r
B
C I D I
r
B
I E I Kn
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2- | H I Kq
o
MOTORE ENGINE
I I
N VERSIONE-VERSION •f
PER RICAM8:
N*
FOR SPARED
L I
1 G3
Please read the whole of the CHAPTER 1, SAFETY FIRST! before carrying out any work on your car.
fUADTCSA I En Hr
GETTIIMG THROUGH THE MOT
This chapter is for owners in Britain whose
vehicles need to pass the 'MoT' test.
Obviously, you won't be able to examine
your car to the same degree of
thoroughness as the MoT testing station.
But you can reduce the risk of being one of
the 4 out of 10 who fail the test first time by
following this check-list.
iMFTri
The checks shown below are correct at the
time of writing but do note that they are
becoming stricter all the time. Your local
MoT testing station will have the latest
information, should you need it.
1 p Chapter Contents -
Page No. Page No.
PART A: INSIDE THE CAR 28 PART C: VEHICLE RAISED OFF THE GROUND 30
PART B: VEHICLE ON THE GROUND 29 PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS 31
PART A: INSIDE THE CAR
Steering Wheel and Column
O 1. Try to move the steering wheel towards and away from you and then from side to side. There should be no appreciable movement or play. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column.
02 . Lightly grip the steering wheel between thumb and finger and turn from side to side. Cars with a steering rack: free play should not exceed approximately 13 mm (0.5 in.), assuming a 380 mm (15 in.) diameter steering wheel. Cars fitted with a steering box: free play should not exceed approximately 75 mm (3.0 in.), assuming a 380 mm (15 in.) diameter steering wheel.
Ob . If there is a universal joint at the bottom of the steering column inside the car, check for movement. Place your hand over the joint while turning the steering wheel to-and-fro a little way with your other hand. If ANY free play can be felt, the joint must be replaced.
04. Ensure that there are no breaks or loose components
on the steering wheel itself.
Electrical Equipment
OS . With the ignition turned on, ensure that the horn works okay.
OE . Check that the front wipers work.
07 . Check that the windscreen washers work.
o 8. Check that the internal warnings for the indicator and hazard warning lights work okay.
Checks With An Assistant
O9 . Check that the front and rear side lights and number plate lights work and that the lenses and reflectors are secure, clean and undamaged.
o 10. Check the operation of the headlights (you won't be able to check the alignment yourself) and check that the lenses are undamaged. The reflectors inside the headlights must not be tarnished, nor must there be condensation inside the headlight.
o 11. Turn on the ignition and check the direction
indicators, front and rear and on the side markers.
o 12. Check that the hazard warning lights operate on the
outside of the vehicle, front and rear.
o 13. Check that the rear fog light/s, including the warning
light inside the car, all work correctly.
o 14. Check that the rear brake lights work correctly. These checks are carried out all around the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground.
o 15. Operate the brake lights, side lights and each indicator in turn, all at the same time. None should affect the operation of the others.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Follow the Safety information in CHAPTER 1, SAFETY FIRST! but bear in mind that the vehicle needs
to be even more stable than usual when raised off the ground.
• There must be no risk of it toppling off its stands or ramps while suspension and steering components
are being pushed and pulled in order to test them.
51. Apply the
handbrake lever by
one 'click' of the
ratchet. From inside
the car, turn the
adjusting nut (a)
until the cable is
drawn taut. Pull the
handbrake up two
more 'clicks' and check that both rear wheels are now
'locked'. Check also that both rear wheels are completely free
when the handbrake is fully OFF. When everything works
properly, lower the car to the ground, and check again that
moving the handbrake through about three notches is suffi-
cient to hold the car stationary. A proper check of handbrake
efficiency can only be carried out by a garage with a 'rolling
road' brake tester.
Q Job 52. Check brake pipes.
FLEXIBLE HOSES
Check the flexible brake pipes that connect the calipers to the
metal pipes on the body. Try bending back on themselves
those that are not contained in a protective coil, and look for
any signs of cracking, particularly at the bends. Check them all
for signs of rubbing, splitting, kinks and perishing of the
rubber. Check hoses for 'ballooning' with the brake pedal
pressed.
RIGID PIPES
Check all rigid pipes for signs of damage or corrosion and
check that all of the locating clips are sound and in place.
• Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid.
Change the brake fluid at the recommended interval. See
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART H: BRAKES,
Job 15.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: Brake fluid absorbs water from
the air. This corrodes brake components and can cause
total brake failure. With brakes applied heavily, the fluid
can heat to above 100 degrees Celsius, the water
vaporises, and the pedal goes to the floor! B
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
• Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks.
Apply a few drops of light oil (from either an aerosol or oil
can) to the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate. Dip the
door/tailgate key in graphite powder and insert the key to
lubricate the lock barrels. Grease the door and tailgate latch
mechanism (aerosol grease is handy), the bonnet release
mechanism (and the tailgate's, if applicable) and the cable
end. Don't forget the fuel tank flap hinge and the locking cap
- it's a stopper when it jams!
• Job 55. Check windscreen.
Clean the windscreen with a proprietary glass cleaner and
examine it for stone chips, cracks and scoring. While some
degree of damage is acceptable, the strict MoT Test regula-
tions limit the amount and position of such defects. Some
screen chips can be repaired and made invisible.
• Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings.
Your car's seat and safety belt mountings and backrest
adjustment locking mechanism will be checked as part of the
annual test, but it pays to check them beforehand. Also,
regularly check that the seat belts: a) retract easily and
smoothly, and b) 'hold' when you snatch them, or under
sharp braking.
Q Job 57. Check headlight alignment.
Some vehicles are fitted with an automatic headlight levelling
device. On these vehicles, each of the headlights is adjusted
according to the vehicle height and no height levelling
adjustment is possible.
57. On the majority of vehicles, there is a manual height
adjuster. When the vehicle is unladen, the lever should be in
position (1): when fully laden, in position (2). The height
adjusters are on the inner side of each headlight and are
visible with the bonnet open. Make sure that the adjusters are
set to the 'unladen' position before the headlights are
adjusted. Don't confuse the beam correctors with the vertical
alignment screw (A) and the horizontal adjuster screw (B).
• Job 58. Check underbody.
Check the condition of the underbody for damage and
corrosion. Take a tin of waxy underbody seal and a brush
under the car and replace any missing underbody seal.
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RIGHT SIDE
• Step 4: Refill the gearbox with the correct grade and
quantity of FL oil. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Section as appropriate, for the replacement of the rear
crankshaft seal. B
—1 Step 5: When the brake calipers have been refitted,
pump the brake pedal until its normal solid feel is restored.
• Step 6: Use a self-grip wrench to reconnect the gear rod
balls and sockets. Use new drive-shaft nuts, tightened to the
correct torque and staked into the shaft grooves with a
punch. See Job 9.
Job 3. Clutch - replacement.
1 - cover plate 2 - driven plate 3 - release bearing
4 - retaining bolt 5 - spring washer
;
Job 3-1
Q Step 1: These first three numbered parts are the parts
you will need to obtain, from your FIAT dealership.
FACT FILE: CLUTCH COMPONENTS
• We strongly recommend that all three
main components: clutch cover, driven
plate and release bearing are replaced
after a high mileage, ensuring longer life
and smoother operation.
• If one is worn, they are all likely to be, so save
yourself another big stripdown in the near future!
LI Step 2: Remove the transmission. See Job 1.
• Step 3: Unscrew the clutch cover bolts (see illustration
Job
3-1,
part 4) progressively until the spring pressure is
released, then remove the bolts. Ease the cover (part 1) off its
dowels and catch the driven plate {part 2) as it falls.
• Step 6: Check the surface of the flywheel that mates
with the clutch, for scoring, or significant micro cracking
caused by excessive head generated by clutch slip. Replace the
flywheel if in doubt.
7ZJ
• Step 7: Check the
release fork pivot, inside
the bellhousing, for wear
Replace the bushes (see
inset) if necessary, lubri-
cating with a small
quantity of molybdenum
disulphide grease.
• Step 8: Replace the bush
(a) by removing the circlip (b)
from the lever shaft (d). Note
the position of the arm (c) on
the splines for refitting and
slide it off. Prise the bush out
using a screwdriver. Lubricate
the new bush with a small
quantity of molybdenum disul-
phide grease and install. Refit
the arm to the fork control
shaft (d) with a new circlip.
Refit the release bearing (e).
• Step 9: Clean any oil (or the protective film) from the
clutch cover and flywheel faces.
• Step 10: Offer the driven plate to the flywheel with the
side having the greatest hub projection facing outwards.
• Step 11: Locate the clutch cover on the flywheel dowels
and screw in the fixing bolts finger tight.
• Step 12: Use an aligning tool to make sure that the
clutch is centralised, otherwise the gearbox will not relocate
on the engine and damage can be caused to the centre plate.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: There is no spigot bush or
bearing in the crankshaft end, but there is an inden-
tation which you can 'feel' with a normal clutch
alignment tool allowing you to centralise the driven
plate between the clutch cover release fingers. B
• Step 5: B INSIDE
INFORMATION: Check
the inside of the
clutch bellhousing for
contamination by oil.
This indicates a leak
from either the
crankshaft rear seal
or the gearbox input
shaft seal (illus-
trated). A faulty seal should be replaced without delay.
Oil can cause judder and slip. Here, the seal (inset) is
being replaced. See PART A: ENGINE, Job 21 for the
position of the rear crankshaft seal. B
• Step 4: B INSIDE
INFORMATION! Check
the inside of the clutch
bell housing for conta-
mination by oil. This
indicates a leak from
either the crankshaft
rear seal or the
gearbox input shaft
seal. Oil can cause
judder and slip.
Replace the gearbox seal by removing the screws holding
in the thrust bearing sleeve (a), prising out the old and
fitting a new seal (b). See PART A: Petrol or Diesel
Job 4. Steering rack gaiter -
replacement.
• Step 1:
Note
the
location of the
steering rack
gaiters under
the car.
ONLY
carry out this
work when the
exhaust system
is cold.
Remove
Q Step 5: Use a suitable
splitter tool to break the
grip of the taper, remove
the securing nut and
withdraw the balljoint from
the steering arm.
B INSIDE INFORMATION:
If the balljoint taper
proves stubborn, a sharp
blow with a hammer to
the side of the eye (see
illustration Job
3-4,
arrowed) momentarily
distorts the eye and releases the taper. B
G Step 6: Unscrew the balljoint from the trackrod.
Q Step 7: Clean and grease the tie bar threads before
fitting the new balljoint to prevent future seizure,.fit the new
balljoint in reverse order and tighten the
torque. See Chapter 3, Facts and Figures.
1 ' ™
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before using the car further, take it
to
your FIAT dealership or tyre specialist to have the
front wheel alignment set. This4s NOT a job you can do
at home but is DOES need doing as soon as possible to
avoid severe tyre wear and dangerous braking and
steering!
Q Step 8: Refit and tighten the road wheel, and lower the
car to
the ground.
Q Step 3: Wipe away contaminated grease and replace
with new (lithium-based molybdenum disulphide grease).
Secure
the new gaiter in position at both ends with new
bands
or screw-type clips.
the Track
Rod
End
(TRE) balljoint.
See Job 3.
0 Step 2: Undo
the securing
clip
from
each end of the
gaiter
and
pull the
gaiter off the tie rod.
Q Step 4: Complete the reassembly in the reverse order.
• Step 5: Refit the TRE balljoint. See Job 3
Job 5. Steering rack -
replacement.
PART A: NON-POWER STEERING
Q Step A1: Raise the front of the car and support securely
on axle stands. Remove the road wheels.
• Step A5: Undo the
steering rack
mounting bolts
(arrowed).
• Step A2:
Disconnect the
trackrod ends from
the steering arms.
See Job 3.
Q Step A3: From
under the bonnet,
undo the gear
change mechanism
fixing (arrowed) and
remove the gear
selector mounting.
• Step A4: From inside the
car, undo the pinch bolt
securing the universal joint to
the rack pinion.
• Step A6: With
an assistant inside
the car, helping to
separate the steering
column pinch-joint
from the rack pinion,
pull the rack
assembly away from
the bulkhead...
• Step A7: ...and withdraw it from beneath a wheel arch.
replacement rack should be
centred before installation.
• Measure the total travel of a TRE when moved from
lock to lock. Go back half this distance, tighten the
mounting bolts, and your rack is centred.
Q Step A9: Place the steering wheel in the dead ahead
position and engage the rack pinion splines with the column
coupling.
Q Step A10: Continue refitting in the reverse order of
removal.
• Step A11: Take your car to your nearest FIAT dealership
or tyre specialist to have the front wheel alignment set before
using the car further. This is NOT a job you can do at home
but is DOES need doing as soon as possible to avoid severe
tyre wear and dangerous braking and steering!
PART B: POWER STEERING RACK
LI Step B1: This is the layout of the power steering rack.
The hydraulic pipe unions (arrowed) must be disconnected
and the fluid drained, before the rack can be removed. See
Job 6 for details of how to refill and bleed the system.
You must take care to:
• remove the union sealing rings
-
two for each union
-
and
renew them.
• seal the open ends of pipes and connections with masking
tape so that no dirt or other contamination can get in.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Stiffening-up of the steering may be
due to either the pump control pulley belt slipping or
insufficient oil. Check before assuming that the pump or
rack is faulty. If either the pump or the power rack
should fail, the power assisted steering will operate like
a normal mechanical steering box, except that it may be
higher geared and therefore more difficult to turn.
Job 6. Power steering pump
removal and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The power steering pump cannot be
rebuilt, even by a FIAT dealer. Have its pressure tested by
your dealer but replace or exchange the unit.
[_) Step 1: Remove the coolant pump/alternator drivebelt.
See Chapter
5,
Job 26.
• Step 2: Remove the unions from the two fluid pipes (2
and 5) from the pump (1) and remove the two sealing
washers from each union.
Q Step 3: Slacken the power steering pump
pivot/attachment bolts, swivel the pump and remove the
drivebelt.
• Step 4: Unbolt and remove the pump.
• Step 5: B INSIDE INFORMATION: If you prefer, you
can unbolt the mounting brackets from the pump and
unbolt the drivebelt guard, after removing the pulley. I
• Step 6: When refitting, be sure to use new sealing
washers on the unions and adjust the belt correctly, as
described in Chapter
5,
Job 26
Job 7. Lower wishbone
replacement.
• Step 1:
Remove the nut
(2) and the pinch
bolt (7) and
remove the
balljoint (arrowed)
from the hub
carrier (1).
• Step 2: Undo the bottom nut on the anti-roll bar link,
retrieve the bushes and washers.
• Step 3: Undo the four mounting bolts (arrowed) and
withdraw the wishbone from the car.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION! If
either the balljoint
or inboard
mountings become
worn, the whole
wishbone will have
to be changed as an
assembly. E3
130
1 - power steering pump 2 - oil supply pipe 3 - reservoir 4 - oil return - rack to reservoir 5 - pipe supplying oil under pressure to rack Job
6-2
A Accelerator linkages and cables 118,119 Aerial 112 Airbag 14, 63, 128 Air cleaner/filter 51 Air Conditioning 12,41 Alternator, drive belt . . 49, 50, 110 Antifreeze 43, 44 Anti-roll bars 131 Auto-Biography 1 Automatic transmission fluid 45 gear selector cable 102
B Ball-joints steering and suspension 57 Battery disconnecting 36 electrolyte 36 safety 7 Bellows, steering gear (see 'Gaiters') Bonnet 15, 143 Brakes 59 to 62, 134 to 142 bleeding 141 caliper 59 to 61, 135, 137 cylinder (master) 138 discs, front 59, 135 discs, rear 61, 137 drums 60, 136 fluid, check level 35,36 handbrake 61, 142 hoses/pipes 62, 141 pads 59, 135, 137 pressure regulating/proportioning . . . valve (ABS) 140 pressure regulating/proportioning valve (Non-ABS) 139 RPM sensors (ABS systems) .... 140 safety 7 servo 138 shoes 135 wear sensors (non-ABS) 60 Bulb renewal (see 'Lights') Bushes 57 Bumper removal and refitting. 146
c Cables accelerator 118,119 automatic transmission ... 101, 102 choke 119 clutch 46, 101 handbrake 61 Caliper, brakes (see 'Brakes') Camshaft belt 43, 66 Capacities 19,154 Carburettor adjustment 53 removal 117 Catalytic converter 54, 55 safety 6 Central locking 114 Choke 119 Clutch adjustment 46, 100 hydraulic 46, 105 replacement 100 cable 46, 101 Coil, ignition 47, 107, 108 Coil spring 57 Constant Velocity (C.V.) joints (see 'Driveshaft') Contents 4 Controls and switches ... 10 to 14 Cooling system .. 35, 43, 106 to107 change coolant 43 radiator pressure cap 35 Crankcase ventilation system 42 Cylinder head Diesel 87 to 93
Petrol 67 to 73
D Data 17 to 27 Diesel bleeding the system 126,127 fuel filter 52 glow plugs 115 injection pump 56,124 injectors 126 Disc, brakes (see 'Brakes') Distributor 108, 109 cap 47 Marelli Breakerless 48 Marelli Digiplex 2 48, 49 Doors hinges 62 locKs and handles 147 to 150 removal and refitting 147 trim panels 146 Drivebelts alternator 49, 50, 110 camshaft 43 Driveshaft C.V. joints 103 gaiters 45, 103 removal and refitting 103 Drum (see 'Brakes')
E Electrical system 110 to 115 Electronic control module 54 safety 7 Emergency starting 16 Emissions 31, 51 to 56 control 53, 54 legal limits 31 Engine bay layouts 34 Engine dismantling Diesel 95 Petrol 73 Engine mountings Diesel 95 Petrol 83 Engine oil (see 'Oil') check level 34 Engine refitting Diesel 94 Petrol 82 Exhaust manifold 56 Exhaust 56 system 56, 122 Expansion tank 35
F Facts & Figures 17 to 27 Fan 50, 106 Fast idle carburettor 53, 54 fuel injection 54 diesel 55 Filter air 51 diesel 52 petrol 52 oil (see 'Oil filter') pollen 63 Fire Extinguisher . 6 Fluoroelastomers, safety 8 Fuel cut-off switch 13 Fuel gauge 114 Fuel injection 52, 54, 55, 117 Fuel lines/pipes 51 Fuel pump electric 120 mechanical 120 Fuel system 51 to 56 evaporation control system . 54,122 Fuel tank 121 Fumes, safety 6 Fuses 40
Gearbox (transmission) .... 44 to 46 oil (automatic) . . 45 oil (manual) 44 Generator drive belt (see 'Alternator, drive belt')
H Handbrake 61, 142 Headlights (see 'Lights') adjustment 62 bulb replacement 37 Headrest 153 Heater 11 Hoses/pipes (see 'Pipes and hoses') HT leads 47 Hub front 104 rear 134
I Identification numbers 27 Idle speed adjustment (see 'Carburettor') Ignition system 46 to 51, 107 to 109 coil 47,48 safety 7 Ignition timing 19, 48 to 50 Instruments 110 panel lights 10 Intercooler 123, 124
J Jacking safety 5 wheelchange 15, 16 Jump leads (Jump starting) 16
L Lambda sensor ... 54, 55, 121, 122 Lights fog lights 13, 38 hazard warning 13 headlights 13,37 indicators 13, 37 interior 15, 39, 40 MoT 28 number plate 39 rear lights 38 reversing lights 39 sidelights 13, 37 Locks and latches 9, 10, 62 Lubricants 154
m Manifold fixings 56 Mirrors 14, 150 Mixture adjustment (see 'Carburettor') Model years 17, 18 MoT, getting through 28 to 31
m Number plates (lights) . . 28, 39, 145
o Oil change disposal 7, 8 engine 41, 42 transmission 44, 45 safety 7 Oil filler cap 35 Oil filter 41 Oil level engine 34, 35 gearbox 44, 45 topping up 35
P-Pads, brake (see 'Brakes') Pipes and hoses brakes 62, 138, 141 hot air 121 radiator (cooling system) 43 Plastics, safety 7 Production changes 17, 18
ft Radiator .* 106 Raising the car 5 Repair data 20 Road test, brakes and steering ... 63 Rotor arm 47, 49
s Safety First! 5 to 8 Seats 14, 151 to 153 mountings 62 Seat belts mountings 62 pretensioners 151, 152 Servicing Your Car 32 to 63 Shock absorbers 57,131 Shoes, brake (see 'Brakes') Sidelights (see 'Lights') Spark plugs 47, 154 Specifications (see 'Facts & Figures') Speedometer cable 110 Starter motor 110 Steering 57, 58, 127 to 131 lower wishbone 127, 130 power steering 58, 130 rack gaiters 58, 133 Steering wheel 128 Sun roof 151 Suspension ... 57 to 59, 127 to 134 front 57, 127, 131 rear 58, 59, 128, 133 strut 57, 131
T Tailgate wiper (see 'Windscreen wipers') Tailgate and strut 144 Thermostat 107 Throttle cable and pedal (see 'Accelerator, linkage and cables') Timing belt 43 Diesel 85 to 87 Petrol 65, 66 Torque wrench settings ... 23 to 27 Track control arm (inner bushes). . 57 Track rod ends 57, 58, 128 Transmission. . 80 to 83, 95, 98 to 106 removal 80 to 82 separation and reconnection (Diesel). . 95 separation and reconnection (Petrol). . 83 Transmission fluid 44, 45 Turbocharger replacement 122 to 124 Tyre checking 30, 36 pressures 18,36
u Universal joints 28, 58 Using your car 9 to 16
¥ Vacuum unit, distributor 48 Valve clearances 42, 43, 79, 93 Valve grinding 72 Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) 27
w Washer fluid reservoir 36 Water pump 107 Wheel alignment 28 Wheel bearings 57, 58 Wheel bolts 59 Wheel changing 15,16 Wheel cylinder 137 Wheel sizes 18 Windscreen, damage 29,162 Window regulator 147 to 149 Windscreen washers 112 Windscreen wipers 13,111 Wiring diagrams 155 to 174
Gaiters 30, 57
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