1988 FIAT TEMPRA automatic transmission

Please be sure to read the whole of this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
SAFETY FIRST!
You must always ensure that
safety is the first consideration
in any job you carry out. A
slight lack of concentration, or
a rush to finish the job quickly
can easily result in an accident,
as can failure to follow the
precautions outlined in
this manual.
Be sure to consult the
suppliers of any materials and
equipment you may use, and
to obtain and read carefully
any operating and health and
safety instructions that may
be available on packaging or
from manufacturers
and suppliers.
Raising the Car Safely
ALWAYS ensure that the vehicle is properly supported when
raised off the ground. Don't work on, around, or underneath
a raised vehicle unless axle stands are positioned under
secure, load bearing underbody areas, or the vehicle is driven
onto ramps, with the wheels remaining on the ground
securely chocked to prevent movement.
NEVER work on a vehicle supported on a jack. Jacks are made
for lifting the vehicle only, not for holding it off the ground
while it is being worked on.
ALWAYS ensure that the safe working load rating of any
jacks, hoists or lifting gear used is sufficient for the job, and
that lifting gear is used only as recommended by the
manufacturer.
NEVER attempt to loosen or tighten nuts that require a lot of
force to turn (e.g. a tight oil drain plug) with the vehicle
raised, unless it is safely supported. Take care not to pull the
vehicle off its supports when applying force to a spanner.
Wherever possible, initially slacken tight fastenings before
raising the car off the ground.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when working under the
vehicle and when using power tools.
Working On The Vehicle
ALWAYS seek specialist advice unless you are justifiably
confident about carrying out each job. The safety of your
vehicle affects you, your passengers and other road users.
DON'T lean over, or work on, a running engine unless it is
strictly necessary, and keep long hair and loose clothing well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts. Note that it is
theoretically possible for fluorescent striplighting to make an
engine fan appear to be stationary
-
double check whether it
is spinning or not! This is the sort of error that happens when
you're really tired and not thinking straight. So...
...DON'T work on your car when you're over tired.
ALWAYS work in a well ventilated area and don't inhale dust
- it may contain asbestos or other harmful substances.
NEVER run the engine indoors, in a confined space or over
a pit.
REMOVE your wrist watch, rings and all other jewellery before
doing any work on the vehicle
-
and especially when working
on the electrical system.
DON'T remove the radiator or expansion tank filler cap when
the cooling system is hot, or you may get scalded by escaping
coolant or steam. Let the system cool down first and even
then, if the engine is not completely cold, cover the cap with
a cloth and gradually release the pressure.
NEVER drain oil, coolant or automatic transmission fluid when
the engine is hot. Allow time for it to cool sufficiently to avoid
scalding you.
ALWAYS keep antifreeze, brake and clutch fluid away from
vehicle paintwork. Wash off any spills immediately.
TAKE CARE to avoid touching any engine or exhaust system
component unless it is cool enough not to burn you.

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

• Repeat this operation three more times until the
complete code number has been entered, if the code
has been entered in correctly LED B will start flashing.
• Release button A (see illustration
1B).
Red LED B
flashes for 8 seconds indicating the new remote unit's
code has been stored.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the LED does not illuminate
when remote unit button (illustration 1B, button
O is pressed, change the remote unit's battery.
• Insert the emergency key A into the emergency switch
slot in the glove compartment turn the key to the left to
switch the alarm off (see inset).
• Turn the key back towards its original position to
switch the alarm system back on.
IMPORTANT NOTE: As the alarm system absorbs
energy, if you are not planning on using the car
for a long period of time, turn the alarm exclusion
key to the off position, so as not to run the vehicle
battery down.
• 2. IGNITION SWITCH AND
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
IGNITION SWITCH
2. The ignition/steering column lock key, once inserted
in the ignition lock, can be placed in any of the
following four positions:
• PARK
-
With the key in this
position the side and tail lights
can be turned on, the steering
column locked and the keys
can be removed. Press button
A to turn the key to PARK.
• STOP
-
When the key is
turned to the STOP position the steering column will be
locked, and the keys can be removed.
• MAR
-
This is the driving position. When the key is in
this position all the electrical devices are energised.
• AW
-
Turning the key to this position starts the
engine.
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
• LOCKING
-
To apply the steering wheel lock turn the
steering wheel slightly to the left or right when the key is
at STOP or PARK.
• UNLOCKING
-
Rocking the steering wheel gently back
and forth while turning the ignition key to MAR unlocks
the steering wheel.
• 3. PANEL INDICATORS
INSTRUMENT DISPLAY PANEL
3. These are the instrument panel warning LED indicators
for all FIAT Tipo/Tempra models. Your vehicle will only
have Panel Indicators relevant to your particular car.
• 4. ELECTRONIC CHECK PANEL
4. The electronic check panel is not fitted to models
with basic trim.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The check panel will not
indicate if the tail light fuses blow at the same
time, or if there is a circuit failure within the panel
display.
SIDE AND HATCHBACK DOORS
When the ignition key is at MAR, the check panel LEDs
g, h, i, I, m and n monitor the light bulbs and fuses.
LEDs a, b, c, d, and e monitor incomplete closure of
the side doors and hatchback.
• Never remove the key when the car is moving.
If you do, the steering wheel will lock the first
time you turn it.
• If the ignition lock has been tampered with or
shows any sign of damage (e.g. attempted theft),
have the lock checked at your nearest FIAT
Service Centre.
M Choke Oil pressure warning
Direction indicators (®) Handbrake engaged
-X: Side lights m Rear window defroster
10 High beam head
lights '•y Injection system warning light
<1* Rear fog lights • Battery warning
A Hazard warning lights A Seat belts not
buckled
m ABS brake warning a Automatic transmission fluid warning
o Brake pad wear warning a Doors not properly closed
Turbo pressure warning Trailer direction indicators
10 Front fog lights a Diesel fuel filter condenstate warning
•515" Diesel heater/glow •515" plugs 3
SWITCHING OFF THE ALARM
1C. Some models
are fitted with an
alarm exclusion
switch, which can
be found inside
the glove
compartment. If
the alarm is faulty
or the remote control batteries are flat:

EMERGENCY STARTING
To release the spare
wheel, jack and tool kit:
16A. Undo strap A to
release the jack from the support. Unscrew nut B, to
remove the spare wheel.
16B. Release the jack from the tool stand by lifting tab C.
The arrangement of the tools in their holder might have
one of the configurations shown in illustration 16B.
• 17. RAISING
THE VEHICLE
17A. To raise the vehicle,
position the jack under
the side member, about
20 cm from the wheel
arch. Turn the jack
handle until the its
grooved head (see inset)
fits the flange at the base of the sill.
REMOVING A WHEEL
17B. Loosen all the wheel bolts in the
order shown.
• Lift the car until the wheel is about
25 mm
(1
in.) off the ground.
• The hub cap is secured by only three wheel bolts.
• Remove the hub cap, then unscrew the fourth wheel
bolt, and remove the wheel.
• Put the spare wheel on, making sure that the aligning
peg or pegs on the hub fits into the hole/s in the rim.
• Attach the wheel with a single bolt and then put the
wheel cover back on so that the largest hole fits over
the bolt holding on the wheel. Screw in the other three
bolts, which also hold on the wheel cover.
• Lower the car and remove the jack. Tighten the wheel
bolts evenly in a criss-cross fashion, as shown in
illustration 17C.
RAISING THE VEHICLE WITH A TROLLEY JACK
• 17C. FROM THE FRONT
-
Place a hardwood board
between the jack and the car, see inset. The jack must
ONLY be positioned under the gearbox case support on
the side of the differential gears.
• 17D. FROM THE REAR
-
Put a hardwood board
between the jack and the car ONLY at the back of the
spare wheel housing.
• 18. ENGINE STARTING
JUMP STARTING YOUR CAR
Choose a fully charged battery with the same or higher
capacity than the flat battery in your car, then ...
• Make sure that the car with the flat battery's electrical
equipment has its ignition turned OFF, and that the
ignition keys are removed.
18. • Connect
one of the jump
lead clamps to
the positive
battery post of
your flat
battery. Then
clamp the other
end of the same
lead on to the positive post of the second (charged)
battery.
• Connect one end of the second jump lead to the
negative pole of the charged battery, and attach the
other end to the metal terminal (as shown) of the earth
cable from your car's flat battery.
• Run the engine of the car with the charged battery at
a medium to slow speed.
• Start the engine of the car with the flat battery, and
run the engines of both cars for about three minutes.
• To reduce voltage peaks when disconnecting the
jump leads, turn on the air fan and the heated rear
screen of the car that had the flat battery.
• Remove the jump leads, starting with the negative
clamp connected to the car with the flat battery's earth.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When disconnecting the jump
leads DO NOT switch on the headlights in place of
the heated rear screen, as the peak voltage may
blow the headlight bulbs.
BUMP STARTING YOUR CAR
IMPORTANT NOTES: 1) Never bump start a car
fitted with a catalytic converter, as the sudden rush
of unburnt fuel into the catalytic converter could
damage the converter beyond repair.
2) On models fitted with automatic transmission
bump starting is not possible.
3) Ensure that the key is in the ignition and is
turned to MAR while the car is being pushed, or
the steering wheel will lock.
To bump start a car:
• Place the key in the ignition and turn to MAR.
• Engage a medium gear (2nd or 3rd), NOT REVERSE.
• Hold the clutch pedal down while someone pushes.
• When the pushed car has reached a fair speed, with
the car still in gear, release the clutch pedal.
• The engine should now turn over and start running.
Depress the clutch and keep the car running.
16

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

PART A: ENGINE
PART A: Contents
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and Job 12. Petrol engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
adjustment. Job 13. Diesel engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and
Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
removal. adjustment. •
Job 3. Petrol engine. Cylinder head and camshaft housing -Job 14. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
removal.
refitting. Job 15. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
refitting.
Job
4.
Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
dismantling and Job 16. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
overhaul.
overhauling. Job 17. Diesel engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment.
Job 5. Petrol engine
-
dismantling. Job 18. Diesel engine
-
removal.
Job
6.
Petrol engine
-
checking and reassembly. Job 19. Diesel engine
-
refitting.
Job
7.
Petrol engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment. Job 20. Diesel engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
-
removal. Job 21. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

Job
9.
Petrol engine/transmission
-
refitting. separation.
Job 10. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 22. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

separation. reconnection.
Job 11. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 23. Diesel engine
-
dismantling.
reconnection. Job 24. Diesel engine
-
reassembly.
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
- replacement and adjustment.
Mi*^^ Zc+sc, / • The crankshaft pulley nut
n^^ will be difficult to turn.
• If the engine is in the car,
engage a gear (or 'Park' in the case of an automatic)
and have an assistant hold the footbrake down very
firmly. This will stop the engine from turning.
• Alternatively, with the starter motor removed, you
can have a helper prevent the flywheel ring gear from
turning with a large screwdriver.
• Step 4: Before removing the belt, put the pulley nut back
onto the crankshaft, take the car out of gear (if the engine is
still in the car) and remove the spark plugs. You can now turn
the engine in a clockwise direction using the refitted crank
pulley nut
-
without the pulley, of course!
• Step 5A: With
the timing belt still in
place, turn the engine
so that the timing
mark on the camshaft
sprocket lines up with
the one on the front
cover. On some
engines, the front
cover looks like this...
• Step 5B:
...while on the
majority, it looks
like this. The top
part of the cover
backplate slides
out so that the
plastic pip is level
with the camshaft
sprocket. Turn
the sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket lines up
with this pip.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is false economy to refit a used
timing belt. If the belt breaks, it will cause complete
engine failure so always fit a new one.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the battery

and
remove the
alternator drivebelt as
described in PART C:

COOLING
SYSTEM
0 Step 2: Take off

the timing
belt cover.

This is held
by a total

of
four bolts (arrowed).
• Step 3: Take off

the
crankshaft pulley

nut and
remove the
pulley.

U Step 12: Fit a new seal to the front cover/oil pump
assembly, unless a new pump is being fitted, and install with a
new gasket, lightly oiling both gasket and seal. Align the cover
with the sump support plate.
PISTON CONNECTING RODS ASSEMBLIES
• Step 13:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION!
Refer to the illus-
tration and note
that the piston
should be fitted
to the connecting
rod so that when
viewed from the
timing end the
crown lift (1) is
on the right
hand/injection
pump (2) side. At
the same time,
the bore numbers
stamped on the connecting rod (3) should face left, the
opposite side. The piston pins are an interference fit in
the pistons and can be tapped into position using an
ordinary drift and secured with circlips. H
Refer to Job 6. Steps 11 to
18,
for installation procedures.
Q Step 14: Refit the oil pump pick-up and return pipes.
• Step 15: Refit the sump using a new gasket. Check that
the drain plug is tight.
• Step 16: Complete the reassembly by fitting all the
external components in the reverse order of removal. Refer to
Job
15
for cylinder head refitting.
• Step 17: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job
22

• Step 18: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
19

• Step 19: Bleed the fuel system. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Bleeding the fuel system
involves turning the engine on the starter. This should
allow it to gain oil pressure before 'firing up', but check
that the oil light has gone out as soon as the engine
starts. H
Q Step 20: Allow the engine to run at 'fast idle' until it
reaches working temperature and switch off. Allow it to cool
and check the oil and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
Q Step 21: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend
an oil and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your engine.
PART B: TRANSMISSION
PART B: Contents
Job 1. Transmission removal (with engine in car).
Job 2. Transmission refitting (with engine in car).
Job 3. Clutch
-
replacement.
Job 4. Clutch cable
-
replacement.
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

replacement.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

adjustment.
Job 8. Automatic gear selector control cable
-
replacement.
Job 9. Drive-shaft
-
removal and refitting.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer) constant velocity joint
-

replacement.
Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider joint
-
replacement.
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper
-
replacement.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings
-
replacement.
Job 14. Hydraulic clutch components.
Job 1. Transmission removal
(with engine in car).
IMPORTANT NOTE: This operation is for cars fitted with
the 1400 and 1600cc petrol engines and non-turbo diesel
engines. For the 1930cc turbo diesel engined version the
complete power unit must be removed and then
separated. See PART A, Jobs 18, 19, 21 and 22 for the
removal of several of the ancillaries detailed here.
• Step 1:
Before
starting
work, ensure
that you can
support the
car suffi-
ciently high
off the ground for the gearbox to be removed from beneath.
Make sure that the gearbox-end of the engine is supported
from above the car, or from beneath. You may be able to
fabricate your own version of this FIAT tool (arrowed).

• Step 13: Tighten the cover bolts evenly to the correct
torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
G Step 14: Smear a little 'copper' grease on the release
bearing guide and the gearbox input shaft.
G Step 15: Refit the transmission. See Job 2.
lob 4. Clutch cable - replacement.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Later cars have hydraulic clutches
see Job 14.
• Step 1: From under the bonnet, slacken the cable
adjusting nut (11). Disconnect the cable from the release lever

and
outer cable bracket.
the car, with securing nuts, or it may be 'worked' in to its
housing) then pull the gaiter/knob assembly from the top of
the lever. (This is a push fit when refitting.)
IG Step 3: From under the car, undo and remove the nut
and bolt securing the control rod (2) from the base of the
gearlever.
• Step 4: Undo the two bolts securing the gearlever
mounting and extract the lever from under the car.
Q Step 5: From under the bonnet, disconnect rods 4, 5 and
6 at the gearbox end by unscrewing them, or by prising the
balls from their sockets, according to type.
Q Step 6: Remove the circlip and washer and lift the
selection link bellcrank (3) off its retaining pin and remove the
complete assembly from the car.
• Step 7: Inspect all components for wear and replace as
necessary, reassembling in the reverse order.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic
transmission) - replacement.
Q Step 1: Drain the automatic transmission oil and remove
the sump. Discard the old gasket. See Chapter
5,
Servicing
Your Car, Job 18
G Step 2: From inside the car, disconnect the cable from

the foot
pedal by removing the securing clip (see illustration

Job 4-1,
part 5) and pulling the cable end off its pivot.
G Step 3: Unbolt the cable retaining plate from the
bulkhead. Pull the cable out from inside the car.
G Step 4: Fit the new cable in the reverse order and adjust.

See Chapter 5,
Servicing Your Car, Job 20
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage -
removal and refitting.
1
-
gear lever mounting 6 - reaction rod 2
•
control rod 3-selection link bellcrank 4
-
gear selection rod 5
-
gear engagement rod
7 - bearings 8 - retaining pin -selection link bellcrank 9 - gearlever knob/gaiter assembly
Job 5-1
^ Step 1: Familiarise yourself with this drawing, which

Step 2
onwards refers. n
J Step 2: Detach the bottom of the gearlever gaiter from

its location
on the tunnel, (it may be held down from beneath
expert22
f:
1 - kick-down cable 2 - idler pulley 3 & 7 - locknuts 4 & 8 - adjusters 5 - accelerator cable 6 - cable-end nipple Job 6-2
• Step 2: Disconnect the cable from the throttle control
idler pulley.
1 - gear selector valve control cable 2 - selector lever 3 - eyelet on selector 4 - cable adjustment nut 5 - bracket fixing selector lever to bodyshell 6 - gearbox lever 7 - bracket for control cable
Q Step 3: Remove the securing clip and disconnect the
kickdown cable (1) from the selector (3).
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