1988 FIAT TEMPRA seats

• 9. DOOR MIRROR ADJUSTMENT
• 7. STEERING WHEEL
HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
7. On some versions the
height of the steering
wheel can be adjusted -
ONLY WITH VEHICLE
STATIONARY!
• Pull lever A, positioned
under the steering wheel, towards you.
• When you have adjusted the wheel to a comfortable
height push the lever back to its original position.
MANUAL TYPE 9A. Move the internal
knob B (attached to the
door mirror A) to adjust
the mirror.
Move it from position 1
to position 2 from
outside the car if extra
clearance is needed.
INDIVIDUAL SETTINGS POWER ADJUSTMENT
9B. When the key is at
MAR, use the 4-way
switch A (near the
handbrake) to adjust the
mirror and switch B to
select left/right mirror.
On some models mirrors are demisted/de-iced
whenever you turn on the rear demister.
• 8. FRONT SEAT ADJUSTMENT
LEGROOM
ADJUSTMENT
8A. Lift lever 1
and exert body
pressure in the
direction desired
to set the seats
fore-and-aft
position:
• Release lever 1, ensuring that the seat is locked in the
desired position.
FRONT SEAT ANGLE ADJUSTMENT
To adjust the angle of the front seats backrest cushion:
• MODELS FITTED WITH A LEVER (ILLUSTRATION 8A, 3):
lift to recline the seat.
• MODELS FITTED WITH AN ADJUSTABLE KNOB (8B, 4):
rotate to recline the seat.
DRIVER'S SEAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
On models with driver's seat height adjustment,
depending on which type you have:
EITHER, pull up lever 2
(illustration &4):
• Move forward to
raise the seat.
• Move backward to
lower the seat.
8C: • OR, pull lever 5
out so that it is at its
full extension.
• Move lever 5 up or
down to adjust the
height of the seat.
After the seat has been adjusted to the required height
slide the extended lever back to its original collapsed
position.
• 10. ELECTRIC WINDOWS
operate the front electric windows (if fitted) when the
key is at MAR:
• A
-
Closes left window.
• B
-
Closes right window.
• C
-
Opens left window.
• D
-
Opens right window.
• E
-
Locks and unlocks the rear electric windows.
• F and G
-
Open and close the rear side windows.
Some models are fitted with two buttons in the front
passenger's armrest to open and close the passenger-
side front window.
• 11. AIR BAG
AIR BAG SAFETY DEVICE
As an extra safety device, some models are fitted with
an air bag, which is stored in the steering wheel. The air
bag inflates immediately to protect the drivers chest and
face in the event of a head on collision.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All diagnosis, repair and
replacement of the air bag device is a specialist job
and is potentially dangerous. It must only be
carried out by your FIAT Service Centre.
I

SAFETY FIRST!
If an air bag has been fitted to your vehicle:
• DO NOT apply stickers or any other objects to
the steering wheel as this may restrict the
operation of the air bag.
• NEVER travel with anything on your lap or in
front of your chest
• NEVER drive with a cigarette, pipe, pen or any
other object in your mouth.
• 12. INTERIOR LIGHTS
COURTESY LIGHT
On most models the courtesy light is positioned in the
centre of the roof.
• With the light switch in the central position the light
turns on when either of the front doors is opened.
• When the switch is in the right position the light
remains on.
• With the switch in the left position the light is
switched off.
• 13. SUNROOF OPERATION
14B. Positioned at the front of the bonnet is a release
catch B. Lift catch up to release.
14C. Lift the
bonnet and pull
the support rod
C out of its
holder.
When the
• 15. LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT
INCREASING THE CARGO AREA
FOLDING THE BACK SEATS
-
Use the following
procedure to fold the rear seat forwards:
• Pull the strap at the centre of the backseat cushion in
an upwards direction to swing up the seat cushion.
15A. On models fitted with lever A, pull the lever up to
release the seat backrest.
15B. Models fitted with a lockable lever B, turn the key
to position 2 to unlock (1 to lock), then lift the lever in
the direction arrowed.
• Fold the backrest cushion forwards.
BONNET AND LUGGAGE
L 2 . fj§
• 14 .BONNET
OPENING THE BONNET
14A. Pull the bonnet release lever A, toward the
steering wheel to release the bonnet catch.
To repositioning the back seats
-
reverse the order
described above.
WHEEL CHANGING
• 16. CHANGING THE WHEEL IN AN
EMERGENCY
CHANGING A WHEEL
Whenever possible park the car on firm level ground.
Put the car into reverse gear and pull on the handbrake.
Keep chocks or pieces of wood in the boot of your car,
which can be wedged in front and behind the
diagonally-opposite wheel to the one being removed to
prevent the car from rolling. If you haven't got a piece
of wood handy, use large rocks or stones.
The location of the spare wheel, jack and tools for most
models is in the luggage compartment under the mat.
However on some models the spare wheel and tools are
located in a storage container within the side walls of the
rear luggage compartment.
bonnet is fully
raised, place the
tip of the rod in
the recess B located in the bonnet.
• Pull handle A down
and turn anti-clockwise,
slides back.
13B. To operate a
sunroof with
electric controls:
13A. SUNROOF CONTROLS
As an optional extra
some models are fitted
with a sunroof. To
operate the manually
operated sunroof:
The sunroof lifts up and then
• Press rocker
switch C either at
the front or back
edge to open or close the sunroof.
Z3

Windscreen and Mirrors
O 16. In zone 'A' of your windscreen, no items of damage larger than 10 mm in diameter will be allowed. In the rest of the area swept by the windscreen wipers, no damage greater than 40 mm in diameter will be allowed, nor should windscreen stickers or other obstructions encroach on this area.
o 17. Check that the exterior mirror on the driver's side is in good condition.
o 18. There must be one other mirror in good condition, either inside the car or an external mirror on the passenger's side.
Brakes
O 19. You cannot check the brakes
properly without a rolling road brake
tester but you can carry out the
following checks:
O 20. Pull on the handbrake. It should be fully ON before the handbrake reaches the end of its travel.
O 21. Knock the handbrake from side to side and check that it does not then release itself.
O 22. Check the security of the handbrake mountings and check the floor around it for rust or splits.
o 23. Check that the brake pedal is in good condition and that, when you take hold of it and move it from side to side, there is not too much play.
o 24. Push the footbrake down hard, with your foot. If it creeps slowly down to the floor, there is probably a problem with the master cylinder. Release the pedal, and after a few seconds, press down again. If the pedal feels spongy or it travels nearly to the floor, there is air in the system or another MoT-failing fault with the brakes.
o 25. Check the servo unit (when
fitted) as follows: Pump the pedal
several times then hold it down hard.
Start the engine. As the engine starts,
the pedal should move down slightly.
If it doesn't the servo or the vacuum
hose leading to it may be faulty.
Seat Belts and Seats
O 26. Examine all of the webbing (pull out the belts from the inertia reel if necessary) for cuts, fraying or deterioration.
o 27. Check that each inertia reel belt retracts correctly.
o 28. Fasten and unfasten each belt to ensure that the buckles work correctly.
o 29. Tug hard on each belt and inspect the mountings, as far as possible, to ensure that all are okay.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Checks apply to
rear seat belts as much as front
ones.
O 30. Make sure that the seat runners and mountings are secure and that the back rest locks in the upright position.
Doors and Door Locks
O 31. Check that both front doors latch securely when closed and that both can be opened and closed from both outside and inside the car.
PART B: VEHICLE ON THE GROUND
Electrical Equipment
See Part A: INSIDE THE CAR for checks on the operation of the electrical equipment.
O 1. Examine the wiper blades and replace those that show any damage.
Vehicle Identification
Numbers (VIIU)
O 2. The VIN (or chassis number on older vehicles) must be clearly displayed and legible.
O 3. Number plates must be secure, legible and in good condition with correct spacing between letters and numbers. Any non-standard spacing will not be accepted.
Braking System
O 4. Inside the engine bay inspect the master cylinder, servo unit (if fitted), brake pipes and mountings. Look for corrosion, loose fitting or leaks.
Steering and Suspension
OS . While still in the engine bay, have your assistant turn the steering wheel lightly from side to side and look for play in steering universal joints or steering rack mountings and any other steering connections.
OE. If your vehicle is fitted with power steering, check the security and condition of the steering pump, hoses and drivebelt, in the engine bay.
O 7. Look and reach under the car while your assistant turns the steering wheel more vigorously from side to side. Place your hand over each track rod end in turn and inspect all of the steering linkages, joints and attachments for wear.
o 8. Go around the vehicle and
'bounce' each corner of the
vehicle in turn. Release at the lowest
point and the vehicle should rise and
settle in its normal position without
continuing to 'bounce' of its own
accord.

G Step 6: Fit the four or five smaller bolts, according to
model (see illustration Job
3-4,
arrowed) close to the spark
plug holes, and tighten to their specified torque. See Chapter

3, Facts
and Figures.
G Step 7: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. When connecting the exhaust always

use a
new flange gasket.
G Step 8: Ensure that all connections are sound and secure.
G Step 9: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. Refer to Job
1
when fitting the timing

belt.
When connecting the exhaust always use a new flange
gasket.
G Step 10: Ensure that all connections are sound and
secure.
G Step 11: Top up the cooling system with the correct

50/50
solution of FL 'Tutela' anti-freeze solution. Check the

oil
level.
• Step 5: Clean and check all components for wear and
signs of 'scuffing'.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! If the camshaft is changed, the
followers should be changed as well. If the bores in the
housing have 'picked up', these cannot be machined and
the housing should be replaced together with new cam
followers. B
• Step 6: Refit the camshaft to the cam housing and insert
the cam followers and shims in their correct bores, using
grease to keep them in place. For adjustment of valve clear-
ances see Job 7.
2 ZeASt, s * when re'inserti"9the
nfW^c/ !X J?^ camshaft, it can be difficult
to get the camshaft fully in
to its end seal. DON'T try hammering it in
-
all you'll
do is damage the seal. Lubricate the seal with fresh
engine oil, insert the camshaft until it is aligned with
and just touching the seal. Push the camshaft with a
twisting motion until it eases its way into the seal.
Job 4. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head - dismantling and
overhauling.
G Step 3: Remove the

cam
followers and shims

from
the housing,
keeping them in the
correct order for refitting

in the
same positions.
Refer to the illustration Job
2-1
for the components covered

in this
Job.
G Step 1: Remove the camshaft housing from the cylinder
head. See Job 2.
G Step 2: Remove the
camshaft housing end

plate
(or the distributor
mounted in the same

place on
certain models).
G Step 4: Slide the
camshaft out, taking
care not to damage the
camshaft bearings with

the cam
lobes.
• Step 7: Use a suitable valve spring compressor to
compress each spring in turn to allow the removal of the split
collets from the valve stems. Inexpensive valve spring
compressors are readily available from auto, accessory stores.
Take care not to lose the collets when releasing the spring
compressor.
Q Step 9: The valve spring caps, springs and spring seats
can all be lifted clear and the valves withdrawn from their
guides.
• Step 8:
These are the
items to be
removed once
the valve is
withdrawn.
1 - flat washer 2 - lower cap 3 - inner spring
4 - outer spring 5 - upper cap 6 - collets Job 4-8

&CASU / # Q StGP 101 The ValV6S i* (/ should slide freely out of
their guides. Any resistance
may be caused by a build up of carbon, or a slight burr
on the stem where the collets engage. This can usually
be removed by careful use of fine wet-or-dry paper,
allowing you to
withdraw the valves
without scoring their
guides. Keep the valves
in their correct order by
wrapping a numbered
piece of masking tape
around each stem.
• Step 12: Clean the
carbon from the valves with
a rotary wire brush and
wash them in paraffin.
Wash the valve springs,
caps, seats and collets and
dry.
/ • Before grinding-in the
valves, clean the tops of the
valve heads back to shiny
metal. Now the sucker on the end of your valve
grinding stick won't keep falling off when you grind-
in the valves!
head. Don't hesitate to seek the advice of your local agent if
you have any doubts.
• Step 14: Examine the valve seats for pitting or burning.
Also, check the valve seats in the cylinder head. Small pits can
be removed by grinding the valves onto their seats. The seats
in the cylinder head will have to be recut (again, by your local
FIAT agent if the pitting is too deep), and new valves fitted.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! These cylinder heads use
hardened valves and seats for use with unleaded petrol.
We advise you to consult your FIAT agent or engine
specialist for machining if anything other than light
valve grinding is required. B
FACT FILE: VALVE GRINDING
• Step 15: Apply a small quantity of
coarse grinding paste evenly round the valve
seat. A valve grinding stick with a suction pad
slightly smaller than the valve head should
be selected. Put a dab of moisture onto the suction pad and
press the grinding stick to the first valve.
• Step 16: Lower
the valve stem into its
guide and, holding the
grinding stick
between the palms of
your hands, rub your
hands together (like a
bushman making a
fire), rotating the
valve and grinding the
two seats together.
Lift the valve
regularly, say every
ten or so turns, to
allow the grinding
paste to be redis-
tributed. When you
can feel the paste
wearing smooth,
remove the valve and
wipe all the surfaces
clean. A complete ring
of grey contact area
should be visible on
the valve head and its
seat in the cylinder head. If necessary, start off with coarse
paste to remove the deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to
obtain a smooth finish.
• Make sure that no paste is allowed to enter the guide. This
would cause a lot of wear to the valve stem and guide.
• A narrow contact band means more seat pressure and
longer life. A wide band allows rapid valve burning.
• A complete ring of grey contact area should be visible on
the valve head and its seat in the cylinder head.
• If necessary, start off with coarse paste to remove the
deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to obtain a smooth
finish.
• If pitting is too bad, you could have the valve face and the
valve seats resurfaced or, in worst cases, the valve and/or valve
seat (in the cylinder head) will have to be replaced.
• Consult your FIAT dealer or engine specialist if in doubt.
LJ Step 11: The cylinder head is made of light alloy and is
easily damaged when being cleaned. Use a rotary wire brush
for the combustion chambers and ports, but no sharp objects
such as screwdrivers should be used. The machined surfaces
must have all traces of old gasket removed by use of a straight
edge. Then wash down with paraffin to remove old oil and
dirt and dry with clean rag.
At all costs, avoid gouging
the cylinder head. This can
be very expensive to have
put right.
• Step 13: The cylinder
head can be checked for
distortion by use of a
straight edge and feeler
gauge. At the same time check for excessive corrosion. If you
are in doubt, or if the old gasket had blown, have the cylinder
head refaced by your FIAT agent or engine specialist. The
valves should be checked for side movement in their guides.
Anything but the very slightest tells you that the valve guides
are in need of replacement. Your local FIAT agent or engine
specialist should do this job. Examine the valve seats for
pitting or burning, also check their mating seats in the cylinder
72

• Step 7: Using a suitable screwdriver, prise out the old oil
seal from the front housing or drift it out, as shown.
PISTON/CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES
• Step 11:
Fitting the
gudgeon pin in
connecting rod -
piston assembly.
Fit new circlips to the ends of the gudgeon pins.
• Step 12: Note the
correct piston offset
relative to the auxiliary
shaft (1). Note the
positions of the con-rod
cylinder bore numbers (2).
Q Step 5: Screw the bolts in finger tight and check that the
crankshaft rotates freely and smoothly.
Q Step 6: Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively until
the specified torque setting is reached. See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures. Check again that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
• Step 3: Make sure
the bearing seats in the
block are perfectly clean
and locate the shells so
that their tabs engage
with the slots. Lubricate
the shells liberally with
fresh engine oil and
lower the crankshaft
into position.
• Step 4: Fit the remaining halves of the shells into the
bearing caps, lubricate threm and position the caps the right
way round and in the correct order.
Fit the piston in the
connecting rod,
positioning it so
that the flat part of
the crown is facing
the same way as
the cylinder bore
number on the connecting rod. See Step 12.
Job
6-12

• Step 13 A:
Make sure the
bores and
pistons are
clean. Position
the piston ring
gaps at equal
intervals round
the pistons
circumference
and lubricate
well. Make
sure the rings are fitted with the word 'TOP' facing upwards
where marked.
1
• Step 9: Refit the housing
with a new gasket and make
sure that the housing face is
flush with the face of the
cylinder block by using a
straight edge across the
surfaces, then tighten the
bolts.
• Step 10: Take the rear oil
seal housing and repeat Step
7 to Step 9
Q Step 8: Clean the oil seal recess in the housing and drive
the new seal into position, preferably using a suitably sized
socket
-
the lip of the seal facing in towards the block.
Lubricate the seal with copious
amounts of fresh engine oil.
• Step 13B:
Alternatively, use
a special piston
ring fitting tool,
if you have one
-

or have your
dealer do it for
you.

Job 9. Drive-shaft - removal
and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For removal of the diesel Turbo's
drive-shaft, see also PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A.
G Step 1: Drain the transmission oil.
• Step 8B: Diesel turbo
models have a bolt-on inboard
flange.
• Step 9: Withdraw the shaft
from the transmission (illus-
tration Job
9-8A,
part b).
G Step 2: Ask a helper to apply the footbrake very firmly
while
you
slacken the drive-shaft-to-hub nut, using a long bar
for
good
leverage after
opening out the
staking on the nut, as
far
as
possible. DON'T

do so
with the car off

the
ground because

the
very large force
needed could pull it off

its stands.
Remove the

nut
after the car has
been raised.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer)
constant velocity joint -
G Step 8A: Undo the

inboard
gaiter retaining

clip
(a) and release the
gaiter.
• Step 11: Refill the
transmission with oil.
See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.
G Step 3: Slacken the hub nuts on the side to be worked

on.
Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands.
Remove the roadwheel.
G Step 6: Remove the

hub
carrier securing

bolts
(arrowed) from the

base
of the front
suspension strut and tap

the
carrier down and out

of the
clamp. Pull the

top
outwards.
G Step 7: Push

or tap
the drive-

shaft
splines
(arrowed) out of

the hub
carrier,

taking
care not to

damage
the
thread.
Q Step 1: Remove the drive-shaft from the car. See Job 9. G Step 4: Unbolt the
brake hose support clip

from
the suspension strut.
G Step 5: Disconnect the
track rod end from the
steering arm using a
suitable splitter tool.
• Step 2: Remove
the gaiter retaining
clip...
Q Step 3: ...and pull
the gaiter clear.
• Step 4: Remove
the circlip and pull the
CV joint from the shaft.
Q Step 5: Thoroughly clean the joint with petrol or other
agent and dry. Check that the balls and their seats are still in a
good, unbroken shiny condition
-
no score marks. Fit a new
joint if in doubt.
• Step 6: Fit the new gaiter onto the shaft, followed by the
CV joint and circlip. Pack the joint with the grease supplied or
with FL Tutela MRM2 grease.
Q Step 7: Pull the gaiter over the joint and secure with the
retaining band or new screw-type clip. The drive-shaft
assembly is now ready for refitting.
• Step 10: Refit in the
reverse order, using a new
drive-shaft nut tightened to the
specified torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures Stake the nut
into the drive shaft
groove, as shown.

Q Step 4: Re-assemble in the reverse order using torque
settings shown in Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures
Job 8. Bleeding the power
steering.
The power assisted steering system is self-bleeding. You
should slowly apply full lock alternately to the right and left
with the car stationary and the engine running, while an
assistant tops up the reservoir. This operation should be
carried out each time the connecting pipes are removed or
refitted.
Job 9. Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting.
G Step 1: Take note of the components shown here.
G Step 2: Support the car on axle stands and remove the
front wheels for access.
G Step 3: Undo the nuts at the bottom of the anti-roll links
(see illustration Job
9-1,
part 4).
G Step 4: Undo the four bolts securing the two mounting
brackets (Job
9-1,
part 8) and remove the anti-roll bar.
G Step 5: Before refitting, check the condition of the
rubber mounting blocks and bushes and replace if necessary.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! The washers (Job
9-1,
part 6)
must be fitted with their convex side facing the rubber
bush (part 7). B
lob 10. Rear anti-roll bar (when
fitted).
• Step 3: Undo the three mounting bolts from each side
(see illustration Job
1-1D)
and wriggle the anti-roll bar from
under the car.
• Step 4: Check the anti-roll bar for obvious distortion or
corrosion and the bushes for deterioration. Replace if
necessary.
I—J Step 5: Refit in reverse order.
Job 11. Front shock absorber -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Slacken the bolts of the relevant front wheel,
then raise the front of the car and support on axle stands, so
that the front wheels hang free. See Chapter
1,
Safety First!
Q Step 2: Remove the relevant wheel then detach the brake
hose from the suspension strut bracket.
• Step 3: Remove
the two bolts
('spannered' and
arrowed) which
secure the hub carrier
to the base of the
shock absorber and
separate them.
• Step 4: Working
under-bonnet, undo
the three bolts
('spannered' and
arrowed) securing the
top mounting to the
bodywork turret.
• Step 5: Lower
the suspension strut
to the ground.
• Step 6: Using two coil
spring compressors spread
over as many spring coils as
possible, compress the spring,
tightening each compressor a
little at a time, in turn, until
the spring ends are free of
their seats.
• Because of the irregular shape of the top end of the
spring coils, it can be difficult to use spring
compressors safely.
• We recommend having this work carried out by your
FIAT agent with the correct compressing tool. G Step 1: Support the rear of the car on axle stands.
Job 9-1
1
-
anti-roll bar 2
-
mounting bracket (2 off) 3
-
front crossmember 4
-
anti-roll bar link rod
(2
off) 5
-
lower wishbone 6
-
washer 7
-
rubber bush 8
-
mounting bracket bolt (4 off)
G Step 2: Remove the fuel tank as described in PART
F:
FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 7: B INSIDE INFORMATION! Special tool, FIAT
no. 1857509000 is required together with another tool,
no. 1874551000 in order to prevent the centre rod from