
Lubrication and Cooling Circuit
Self-locking nut for screw fastening radiator support bracket to body (M6)....
Flanged screw, radiator support beam to body (M8)
Flanged screw retaining heater (M6)
Clutch
Screw with split safety washer retaining clutch mechanism
(M8)
(M6)
Gearbox Differential
Tapered threaded plug for filling gear case with oil (M22 x 1.5)
External Gearbox Control
Oil pressure switch (M10 x 1.25 tapered)
Braking System
Bolt retaining brake carrier plate to rear suspension arm
(rear drum brakes) (M8)
Bolt retaining caliper support to rear top arm (rear disc plate) (M8)
Bolt retaining rear brake caliper to plate (rear disc plates) (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining front brake caliper to pillar (M10 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining front brake disc and rear brake drum or disc to hub (M8)
Fitting connecting hose to front brake caliper (M10 x 1)
Bleed screw on front brake caliper (M8)
Fitting connecting hose to rear brake caliper (rear disc plates) (M10 x 1)
Bleed screw on rear brake caliper (rear disc plates) (M7)
Bolt with split safety washer retaining brake system bracket assembly (M8)....
Bolt retaining cylinder to rear drum brake carrier plate (M6)
Bleed screw on rear drum brake cylinder (M8)
Male fitting for hoses with flared ends fastening rigid pipe to front and
rear hoses (M10 x 1)
Male fitting for hoses with flared ends fastening rigid pipe to hose on
rear axle (M10 x 1)
Bolt retaining brake fluid reservoir to body (M8)
Nut retaining brake fluid reservoir to body (M6)
Bolt retaining brake fluid reservoir to body (M6)
Male fitting for flared hoses fastening rigid pipe to rear drum brake
cylinder
(M1
Ox 1)
Male fitting for flared hoses fitting brake pipe to pump and cast iron Ip valve
(M10
x
1)
(M12
x
1)
Male fitting for flared hoses fitting brake pipe to 4-way control valve and
aluminium load prop, valve
(M10 x
1)
(M12
x
1)
Load Proportioning Valve Fasteners
Bolt retaining load proportioning valve to bracket (M6)
Self-locking nut for bolt retaining valve spring bracket to rear
anti-roll bar (M6)
Bolt retaining square lever for load proportioning valve adjustment (M8)
Bolt retaining load prop, valve to rail (for Girling ABS) (M8)
Bolt retaining square lever for load prop, valve adjustment (M6)

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of
scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,
at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described
in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'
COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

Job
9-2
Job 7. Windscreen washer pump -
replacement.
Job 10. Rear light cluster
replacement.
Job 8. Radio aerial - replacement.
• Step 1: Refer to Job 13 and remove the interior light.
Q Step 2: Now disconnect the aerial lead from the exposed
base and undo the securing nut.
• Step 3: Remove the aerial from outside the car.
Q Step 4: Reverse the process to refit but ensure that the
seal is good between the aerial and the roof to prevent water
ingress.
Job 9. Headlight cluster -
replacement.
• Step 1: Remove the radiator grille
-
see PARTI: BODY
AND INTERIOR
PART A: TIPO MODELS
O Step A1: Disconnect the
battery.
• Step A2: Raise the
tailgate and undo the fixing
screws (arrowed).
• Step A3: Withdraw the
cluster and disconnect the
wiring plug.
• Step 2:
Disconnect the
battery. Unplug all
the wires serving
the light cluster.
Undo the fixing
bolts (arrowed)...
• Step 3: ...and
withdraw the
complete
assembly.
Q Step B6: From inside, undo the mounting bolts and
remove the motor.
Q Step B7: Refit in reverse order.
O Step 1: Disconnect the
battery earth terminal.
• Step 2: Locate the
pump (arrowed), which is a
push fit in the washer fluid
reservoir and disconnect the
electrical plug.
• Step 4: Refit
in the reverse way
and have the
beam alignment
checked by your
local FIAT service
agent.
• Step 3:
Withdraw the
pump and
disconnect the
tubing. This, for
reference, is the
layout of the
headlight washer
pipes and the
headlight wiper
motor.
• Step 4: Check the condition of the seal before refitting in
reverse order.

• Step A2: Start the engine and run until fluid emerges
from the loose injector fitting.
G Step A3: Keep the engine running and tighten the four
injector fittings.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: If the engine will not start,
check all fuel inlet pipe union points (see illustration Job
18-A1,
part D) and also the pipe fittings (Job 18-A1,
part E). Replace seal washers to eliminate the possibility
of air leaks. H
PART B: BLEEDING WATER FROM DIESEL
Bleed off water from the fuel filter as follows:
• Step B1: Unscrew the water bleed screw (Job 18-A1,
part B) under the filter.
• Step B2: Unscrew air bleed screw (Job 18-A1, part Q
above the filter.
• Step B3: Let water and fuel emerge until no more water
is present, then tighten, firstly the water bleed screw (B) under
filter, and then the air bleed screw (C) above the filter.
PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION
PART G: Contents
Job
1.
The systems explained.
Job
2.
Steering wheel
-
removal and refitting
Job 3. Track rod end balijoint
-
replacement.
Job
4.
Steering rack gaiter
-
replacement.
Job 5. Steering rack
-
replacement.
Job
6.
Power steering pump
-
removal and refitting
Job
7.
Lower wishbone
-
replacement.
Job 8. Bleeding the power steering.
Job 9. Front anti-roll bar
-
removal and refitting.
Job 10. Rear anti-roll bar (when fitted).
Job 11. Front shock absorber
-
replacement.
Job 12. Front wheel bearing
-
replacement.
Job 13. Rear shock absorbers and coil springs
-
replacement.
Job 14. Rear suspension and wheel bearings
-
replacement.
Job 1. The systems explained.
The
following drawings should be followed in connection with
the
relevant Jobs in this Part of the manual.
1
-
anti-roll bar link 2
-
cast iron lower wishbone with steel sleeved inner bushes and wishbone to hub carrier balijoint 3
-
front crossmember 4
-
hub carrier 5
-
shock absorber 6
-
coil spring 7
-
anti-roll bar 8
-
steering rack 9
-
trackrod
10 - trackrod balijoint 11 - shock absorber top mounting 12 - steering column assembly 13 - steering column universal joint Job 1-1A
G Point 1A: All the Tipo and Tempra front suspension and
steering layouts are virtually identical. This is the general LI Point 1B: This is a breakdown of front suspension
layout, shown here without power steering and in left-hand components available as spare parts from FIAT,
drive
form.

Q Step A9: Place the steering wheel in the dead ahead
position and engage the rack pinion splines with the column
coupling.
Q Step A10: Continue refitting in the reverse order of
removal.
• Step A11: Take your car to your nearest FIAT dealership
or tyre specialist to have the front wheel alignment set before
using the car further. This is NOT a job you can do at home
but is DOES need doing as soon as possible to avoid severe
tyre wear and dangerous braking and steering!
PART B: POWER STEERING RACK
LI Step B1: This is the layout of the power steering rack.
The hydraulic pipe unions (arrowed) must be disconnected
and the fluid drained, before the rack can be removed. See
Job 6 for details of how to refill and bleed the system.
You must take care to:
• remove the union sealing rings
-
two for each union
-
and
renew them.
• seal the open ends of pipes and connections with masking
tape so that no dirt or other contamination can get in.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Stiffening-up of the steering may be
due to either the pump control pulley belt slipping or
insufficient oil. Check before assuming that the pump or
rack is faulty. If either the pump or the power rack
should fail, the power assisted steering will operate like
a normal mechanical steering box, except that it may be
higher geared and therefore more difficult to turn.
Job 6. Power steering pump
removal and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The power steering pump cannot be
rebuilt, even by a FIAT dealer. Have its pressure tested by
your dealer but replace or exchange the unit.
[_) Step 1: Remove the coolant pump/alternator drivebelt.
See Chapter
5,
Job 26.
• Step 2: Remove the unions from the two fluid pipes (2
and 5) from the pump (1) and remove the two sealing
washers from each union.
Q Step 3: Slacken the power steering pump
pivot/attachment bolts, swivel the pump and remove the
drivebelt.
• Step 4: Unbolt and remove the pump.
• Step 5: B INSIDE INFORMATION: If you prefer, you
can unbolt the mounting brackets from the pump and
unbolt the drivebelt guard, after removing the pulley. I
• Step 6: When refitting, be sure to use new sealing
washers on the unions and adjust the belt correctly, as
described in Chapter
5,
Job 26
Job 7. Lower wishbone
replacement.
• Step 1:
Remove the nut
(2) and the pinch
bolt (7) and
remove the
balljoint (arrowed)
from the hub
carrier (1).
• Step 2: Undo the bottom nut on the anti-roll bar link,
retrieve the bushes and washers.
• Step 3: Undo the four mounting bolts (arrowed) and
withdraw the wishbone from the car.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION! If
either the balljoint
or inboard
mountings become
worn, the whole
wishbone will have
to be changed as an
assembly. E3
130
1 - power steering pump 2 - oil supply pipe 3 - reservoir 4 - oil return - rack to reservoir 5 - pipe supplying oil under pressure to rack Job
6-2

Job 13. Rear shock absorbers and
coil springs - replacement.
Q Step 12: ...then complete the
operation by using a standard
puller with a strong packing piece
(arrowed) for the puller shaft to
'push' against.
G Step 13: Remove the circlip
(see illustration Job
12-9,
part b)
and drift or press out the bearing
outer track from the hub carrier.
• Step 14: Check the hub
carrier for serviceability and
replace if it is in any way
damaged.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The
new bearing is a complete
sealed unit and requires no
extra lubrication. D
• Step 15: Press the bearing
into the carrier using pressure on
the outer track ONLY (a). Fit the
circlip to retain it.
• Step 17:
Reassemble the front
suspension and brakes
in
the reverse order of
removal. See relevant
Jobs
for detailed infor-
mation. Use a NEW
hub nut fitted as
shown.
FACT FILE: STAKING THE HUB NUT
• Step 18: Use a cold
chisel
with an edge
ground to an angle of
about 60 degrees to stake
the
collar of the nut. USE
A
NEW NUT EACH TIME
IT IS REPLACED.
Q Step 19: Make sure the staked-down section of the collar
fits
in the stub axle
slot
in the opposite
direction to the
direction of the
nut
rotation, as
shown.
• Step 1: Refer to the drawings Job 1-1Cand 1-1D.
• Step 2: Leave the weight on the suspension by means of
a jack under the trailing arm (see illustration Job
1-1C,
part
• Step 3: Undo the nuts (see illustration Job
1-1D,
part
6)
and washers retaining the shock absorber (Job
1-1D,
part 5).
• Step 4: Pull the shock absorber off the top and bottom
mounting studs and carefully lower the jack to release the
pressure on, and then withdraw the coil spring. See also
Job 11
O Step 5: Refit in reverse order making sure that the coil
spring is properly seated top and bottom and that the shock
absorber nuts are tightened to the correct torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Job 14. Rear suspension and
wheel bearings - replacement.
Carry out this Job in connection with illustration Job
1-1C
and
1-1D.
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE:
The trailing arms come
complete with bearings and
spacers (arrowed) as an
assembly. If the bearings are
defective, or the arm is cracked
or distorted, or showing signs
of wear or corrosion on the
wheel side, the whole assembly must be changed.
Q Step 2: Support the rear of the car on axle stands so that
the suspension hangs free. Remove the road wheels.
• Step 3: Remove the exhaust system. See PART F: FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 14.
• Step 4: Remove the fuel tank. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 5: Disconnect the brake pipes from the four-way
union and plug the ends to prevent excessive fluid loss.
Q Step 6: Slacken the cable adjustment under the
handbrake lever and disconnect the rear cable ends from the
equaliser. See PART H: BRAKES, Job 18
/ • Step 7: • Using a trolley
jack under the rear end of
the trailing arm to be
removed, compress the spring enough to undo the
mounting nuts and remove the shock absorber.
• Slowly lower the jack and remove the spring. This
allows you to use the weight of the car to help you
compress the spring
-
a difficult task otherwise!
Q Step 16: Press the hub into
the bearing, pushing ONLY on the
inner track with a suitable piece of
strong tube (1).