1988 FIAT TEMPRA checking oil

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

• Job 25. Check ignition timing.
_ FACT FILE: IGNITION SYSTEM TYPES
Two different types of electronic ignition
systems have been fitted to the petrol
engines covered by this manual.
The earlier Breakerless Inductive Discharge System can
be adjusted. Its distributor is fitted as shown in illus-
tration 25A.
The later, Digiplex 2 system, has an integrated ignition
and fuel injection control system and any checks and
adjustments will need to be carried out by your FIAT
dealership with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
See Job 28.
MAGNETI MARELLI BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE
DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
CHECK VACUUM AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE SYSTEMS
25A. This is the
location of the break-
erless electronic
ignition components in
the car. The distributor
(1) is fitted to the front
of the block while the
ignition coil
(2)
is
alongside the battery.
25B. This type of distributor can be
identified by the electronic ignition
control module (a) and the vacuum
advance unit (b), not fitted to other
ignition types.
• the engine must be at
ature.
• the idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct

-
see Job 35.
• Start the engine and run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley timing mark
and ensure that the mark lines up with the 10 degrees Before
Top Dead Centre (BTDC) mark on the timing belt cover.
• If the reading is 'out' stop the engine and slacken the clamp
nut on the distributor so that the distributor can just be turned
with firm hand pressure.
• Turn the distributor a very small amount, restart the engine
and check again.
• Repeat the procedure until, with the engine running, the
crankshaft pulley timing mark lines up with the 10 degree
BTDC mark. Then tighten the nut securing the distributor to
the engine block.
You can now check the vacuum advance system as follows:
• increase the engine speed to approximately 2,000 rpm and,
with the timing light pointed at the timing marks, make a
mental note of the position of the mark on the crankshaft
pulley in relation to the timing belt cover. If the position is no
further advanced than 10 degrees BTDC, the mechanical
advance system inside the distributor is probably seized.
• stop the engine, reconnect the vacuum advance pipe and
repeat the procedure.
• you should see a further amount of advance taking place
and if not, the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance
mechanism is probably punctured.
• if either or both of these faults have occurred, your engine
will run uneconomical^ and inefficiently and it may pay you to
fit a new distributor.
MAGNETI MARELLI DIGIPLEX 2 ELECTRONIC
IGNITION
25D. This is the layout of the Digiplex ignition system, viewed
from over the engine looking towards the left-side of the car.
The ignition coil (1) is adjacent to the battery. The electronic
control unit (2) is nearer to the engine bay sidewall. The
distributor (3) is mounted on the end of the cylinder head and
the rpm and Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor (4) is located on
the crankshaft cover on the flywheel side.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before
checking the ignition timing,
you must be certain that:
• the pipe from the distributor
vacuum unit is disconnected
from the distributor and plugged.
its normal operating temper-
instructions. The
timing light should
always be connected
to No.
1
spark plug
lead
-
the one nearest
the timing belt end of
the engine.
48
25C. To check the ignition timing, connect up a stroboscopic
lamp, either as shown on the inset or in accordance with the
manufacturer's

each track rod end (TRE). Also, look out for a split gaiter.
Replace the TRE if the gaiter is split, or it will rapidly fail.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: Try placing your hand over the
TRE as the steering is moved. If there are any signs of
wear, replace the TRE. Q
STEERING COLUMN
44B. The steering column has two universal joints (A) which
need to be checked for wear. While your assistant is turning
the steering wheel, check to see if there is any movement in
the universal joints.
44C. The upper joint is found
alongside the foot pedals.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION:
Place your hand over the joint

-
you can usually feel the
movement better than you
can see it. If there is ANY
movement at all, play at the
steering wheel will be greatly
exaggerated
-
replace the
faulty universal joint. B
STEERING RACK GAITERS
44D. B INSIDE INFORMATION: Check the right hand
gaiter from beneath; the left-hand from inside the
engine bay. Q
Turn the ignition key to the 'MAR' (ON) position but take care
not to start the engine. Turn the steering wheel to full right
lock. From underneath the bonnet, examine the gaiter (see
illustration 44B, parts B) on the left-hand side, which will now
be fully extended. Check visually for splits or oil leakage. Turn
the steering wheel to the opposite lock and examine the gaiter
(B) on the other side of the rack. If necessary, replace IMMEDI-
ATELY
-
the rack will rapidly be ruined if the gaiter is split.
Also, watch the steering rack body (C) to see if it is firmly
attached. If there is any movement between the rack and its
mountings, check the securing bolts for tightness.
• Job 45. Check power steering fluid.
45A. When the
engine is cold, the
power steering fluid
should not drop below
the LIVELLO (level)
mark (B) on the
reservoir (A)...
45B. ...or the mark on the dipstick, as shown. It's okay for the
level to appear too high when the engine is hot.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The reservoir 'floats' around the
engine bay
-
in different places in different models.
• Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings.
Tipo/Tempra rear wheel bearings are sealed in their hubs and
are usually very long lived. See the checking procedures
described in Job 42, but remember not to apply the
handbrake! Also note that the rear wheels will be easier to
spin than the fronts.
• Job 47. Check rear suspension.
Chock the front
wheels, jack the rear
of the car, and place
stands under the axle,
as close to the wheels
as possible. Lower the
car onto the axle
stands.
47. Check the subframe mountings (x4), the trailing arm bush
pivot bolts, the shock absorber lower mounting bolts and the
anti-roll bar mounting bolts for tightness. Check the condition
of the mounting bushes by levering them with a screwdriver.
Replace if excessive movement or bush deterioration are
noticed. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.

50A. Remove the two

bolts
(one or both of
them also the wheel
positioning stud/s)...
50B. ...and remove
the
drum.
Clean the
inside of the drum and
the brake with aerosol

brake
cleaner. If the
drum is badly scored

or cracked,
replace it.
50F. So that you don't
have to bleed the
system, release and
disconnect the parking
brake cable (arrowed)
and lift the caliper out
of the way, suspending
it on a piece of wire so
that no strain is placed
on the flexible hydraulic
hose.
50G. The brake pads are simply lifted away.
50E. Using a pair of
spanners, as shown,
remove the two
retaining bolts. These
bolts are self-locking
and FIAT recommend
that they should be
replaced each time they
are removed or if they
become loose.
Examine the brake

shoes
for wear or oil
contamination. If the
latter, the wheel cylinder is probably leaking (see 50C) and the

shoes will
have to be scrapped. FIAT recommend a minimum

1.5 mm
shoe lining thickness, but it's advisable to replace

shoes
well before they're this thin.
50C. Fold back each of

the
two rubbers on

the wheel
cylinder.
Any
fluid
found inside
requires a new
cylinder. However,
newish cylinders will

have a
little of their
special grease still in
there.
. """
€
Sjjj
KV,1
| 50D|

50D. Take
special care

to wash
all the brake

dust
away from the
automatic adjuster
mechanism with
aerosol brake cleaner.

Make
sure that it is

not seized
but if it is,

you will
have to strip

down
the assembly (see Chapter
6,
Repairs and

Replacements)
and free off or replace. Add brake grease very
sparingly (NOT ordinary grease) to the mechanism.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For information on replacing missing
or damaged springs, brake shoes or wheel cylinders, see
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
DISC REAR BRAKES

With
the rear of the car raised and safely supported (see

Chapter 1,
Safety First) and the rear wheels removed, brake

pad
inspection can be carried out by looking through the
aperture in the caliper body. However, as for the front brakes,

you are
recommended to remove the calipers. See notes at

the
start of Job
49.
The pads should be replaced as detailed in

Chapter 6,
Repairs and Replacements. Minimum thickness

is 1.5 mm -
but don't let them get this low!
• Job 51. Check/adjust handbrake.
The handbrake is intended to 'set' itself in use as the rear
brake self-adjusters operate. If the handbrake seems not to
work, even though lever travel is not excessive, remove the
rear drums and examine the brake shoes (see Job 50) and the
self-adjuster mechanism, to ensure that it has not seized. The
handbrake may need adjusting when, after a time, the
handbrake cable stretches or if the rear brake friction materials
are replaced.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On rear disc brake cars, the
handbrake-end of the mechanism is the same as for
drum brake cars. At the brakes, the clearance is adjusted
automatically, provided that the adjuster, built in to the
caliper assembly, has not seized. If it has, replace the
caliper.
SAFETY FIRST!
Raise the rear of the car to adjust the handbrake. It
is

ESSENTIAL to ensure the front wheels are securely
chocked in both directions, and that axle stands are
used to support the car.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Follow Job 49
carefully for further
information such as
on checking the
caliper seals, the
condition of the disc,
and lubricating the
pad backing plates.
• Before fitting new
pads, turn the caliper
piston clockwise until it goes fully in.
• Pump the brake pedal repeatedly to adjust the pad
positions and top up with fresh brake fluid.

• Step 24:
Remember to retrieve

the
two thrust
washers from the

end
main bearing in
the block. There are
none in the cap.
If so, you will probably need a new housing. If you are
replacing the camshaft, fit new followers as well.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All bearings, shells, piston rings and
ALL seals that bear on moving parts MUST be copiously
lubricated with fresh engine oil as the engine is being
reassembled. Work ONLY in clean conditions, with clean
components and clean hands. Re-assemble in the reverse
order of the dismantling procedure and take note of the
following steps which will help you carry out a smooth
operation.
Engine Reassembly lob 6. Petrol engine -
checking and reassembly.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: It is good policy to change the
oil pump when carrying out an engine overhaul. A
replacement engine supplied by your FIAT agent would
include a new pump. D
Checking for Wear
GENERAL
All parts must be thoroughly cleaned for inspection
-
still
keeping them in the right order for reassembly in case they

are to
be re used. Check each component as follows:
CYLINDER BLOCK

Look
for any cracks in the casting, particularly at bolt holes

and
between cylinders. Check the bores for score marks,
caused by burned pistons or broken rings. Check for a wear

ridge just
below the top of the bore where the top piston ring

ends its
travel. If any of these defects are present in any of the
cylinders, they will have to be rebored. Ask your FIAT dealer or

engine
specialist to inspect and measure the bores for wear if

you
are unsure. It is sometimes possible to 'glaze bust' the

bores and
fit new piston rings, assuming the pistons and bores

to be in
reasonable condition. All of this work can be carried

out by
your FIAT dealer.
CRANKSHAFT
Check
all
the mains journals and crankpins for any signs of
wear ridges round the circumference or scoring of the surface.

Check
for ovality with a suitable micrometer, 0.005 mm being

the maximum
permissible amount. Check the shell bearings,

which
should have an even, dull grey finish. If this has worn

through
to the copper coloured backing, or if the crankshaft

has any
of the previously mentioned faults, the crankshaft

should
be reground by your specialist who will also supply the

new shell
bearings and thrust washers.

Check
the crankshaft end float by using a feeler gauge
between the thrust washer and the crankshaft. Thicker

washers
are available if required, see Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
CAMSHAFT
Check each cam lobe for wear, which can be quite rapid once
started. The cam followers should also be checked, particularly

where
they contact the cam lobe. Check the five camshaft

bearings
and their corresponding surfaces in the housing for a

smooth
shiny surface without wear ridges. Check the cam
follower bores in the camshaft housing for pitting or scoring.
Job 6-1
Q Step 1: Make sure you have all the necessary gaskets,
available from your FIAT dealership.
CRANKSHAFT
• Step 2: Apply some
grease to the smooth side of
the thrust washers and 'stick'
them in position either side of
No. 1 main bearing.

FACT FILE: DIESEL ENGINES AND SPECIAL TOOLS
• As the
construction and
assembly of the
diesel engine is,
for the best part,
the same as the
petrol engines,
this section details
only those proce-
dures which are
specific to the
diesel.
• Major differ-
ences lie in the
areas of the
cylinder head and
camshaft drive
belt.
• Where
inspection of
components such
as crankshaft,
camshaft, pistons,
conrods, cylinder
head face, flywheel
etc. is not detailed
within this
section, refer to
the relevant infor-
mation in the
Petrol Engine
section, Job 6,
under Checking
for wear -
information which is common to all engine types.
• In view of the complexity of the diesel engine's camshaft drive arrangement, the need for special tooling and the
accuracy required in adjusting camshaft
timing and injection pump timing, we
strongly recommend that any work involving
disturbance of the timing belt or injection
pump is entrusted to a FIAT dealer.
• The following information is provided only
for those who have technical experience of
diesel engines, along with access to the
required tooling.
• Familiarise yourself with this drawing,
showing the cylinder head, block and other
major components referred to in the
following text.
1
-
cylinder block 2
-
sump 3
-
cylinder head 4
-
injection pump mounting 5
-
oil pick-up and pump 6
-
threaded bush 7
-
rear crank seal carrier 8
-
front cover/oil seal 9
-
plate
10
-
head gasket 11
-
camshaft rear bearing 12
-
camshaft front bearing 13
-
exhaust manifold 14
-
intake manifold 15
-
coolant pipe 16
-
water pump 17
-
cam cover 18
-
gasket
19-seal 20
-
valve 21
-
valve guide 22
-
spring seat 23
-
thermostat housing 24
-
oil filler cap 25
-
compression washer
1
-
strainer with gauze filter 2
-
geared oil pump 3
-
oil pressure relief valve 4
-
total capacity cartridge oil filter with safety valve to cut out filter element becomes blocked 5
-
main oil delivery pipe supplying various / components 6
-
oil delivery pipe to camshaft
IHSupply circuit I
I Return
circuit
a
-
camshaft b
-
vacuum pump c
-
bucket tappets d
-
valve guides e
-
valves f
-
piston g
-
gudgeon pin assemblie; h
-
conrod i
-
crankshaft j
-
crank journal k
-
flywheel

1 - camshaft 2 - tappet 3 - collets 4 - valve spring 5
-
spring seat 6 - exhaust valve 7 - upper cup 8 - tappet plate 9 - inlet valve 10 - valve guide 11 - oil sealing ring
• Step 10: Remove the cam followers (2) complete with
shims
(8)
and keep them in order so that they can be refitted
in the same positions.
O Step 11: Using a suitable valve spring compressor,
compress the spring of the first valve and remove the split
collets (illustration Job
16-10,
part 3).
[J Step 12: Carefully release the spring compressor. Remove
the valve spring cap (Job
16-10,
part 7), the spring {part
4)

and spring seat {part 5).
•
Step 13: Withdraw the valve (illustration Job
16-10,

parts 6 and 9) from its guide {part
10)
and remove the valve
stem oil seal {part 11).
Q Step 14: Remove the remaining valves and keep each set
of components together and in the correct order, discarding
the old stem seals.
• Step 15:
Unscrew and
remove the four
threaded bushes
which secure the
pre-combustion
chambers. FIAT use
their tool No.
1850178000 for
this purpose.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! If you have no access to this
tool, you will need to make a simple flat-bladed tool to
locate in the slots provided in the bush. The tool blade
should be 31.5 mm wide by 5 mm thick. B
• Step 16:
Remove
the pre-
combustion
chambers by
tapping them
out with a
small drift.
Q Step 17: Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and compo-
nents with paraffin or an engine cleaning solvent. Take great
care not to gouge the face of the cylinder head. The valves are
best cleaned with a rotary wire brush.
• Step 18: Check the cylinder head for distortion by using
a straight edge along the machined surface, and a feeler
gauge. Any distortion above
0.1
mm indicates the need for
machining.
Q Step 19: Valve guide wear can be checked by rocking the
valve sideways in its guide. The guides should be replaced if
a

maximum movement of 0.35 mm is exceeded (in practice,
scarcely detectable).
• Step 20: Lubricate the valve stems with clean engine oil
then locate them in their respective guides after fitting new
oil

seals onto the tops of the guides. Take great care not to
damage the seals!
^ ^^iSu / * TW°
VfaliSt*?0lS
"'I
f' (y - required for seal fitting
if

you are to avoid damaging
the new
seals.
These are Nos.
1860313000
and

1860313002
respectively.
• They may be available from your FIAT agent on
hire,

but if not it is best to take the cylinder head to the
agent for the seals to be fitted.
Q Step 21: Place the valve spring seat over the guide, then
position the spring, followed by the cap. Compress the spring
enough to allow you to engage the split cotters with the valve
stem.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Use a little grease to keep
them in place. Slowly release the compressor, checking
that the collets are properly located. Tap the ends of the
valve stems to bed them in. B
• Step 22: Always
use new camshaft end-
support gaskets and fit
new seals. (If the bushes
inside the supports show
signs of scoring, replace
the supports.) Carefully
remove the old seal and
drift in the new.
Lubricate the sealing lip
before fitting the
camshaft.