1988 FIAT TEMPRA transmission

Please be sure to read the whole of this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
SAFETY FIRST!
You must always ensure that
safety is the first consideration
in any job you carry out. A
slight lack of concentration, or
a rush to finish the job quickly
can easily result in an accident,
as can failure to follow the
precautions outlined in
this manual.
Be sure to consult the
suppliers of any materials and
equipment you may use, and
to obtain and read carefully
any operating and health and
safety instructions that may
be available on packaging or
from manufacturers
and suppliers.
Raising the Car Safely
ALWAYS ensure that the vehicle is properly supported when
raised off the ground. Don't work on, around, or underneath
a raised vehicle unless axle stands are positioned under
secure, load bearing underbody areas, or the vehicle is driven
onto ramps, with the wheels remaining on the ground
securely chocked to prevent movement.
NEVER work on a vehicle supported on a jack. Jacks are made
for lifting the vehicle only, not for holding it off the ground
while it is being worked on.
ALWAYS ensure that the safe working load rating of any
jacks, hoists or lifting gear used is sufficient for the job, and
that lifting gear is used only as recommended by the
manufacturer.
NEVER attempt to loosen or tighten nuts that require a lot of
force to turn (e.g. a tight oil drain plug) with the vehicle
raised, unless it is safely supported. Take care not to pull the
vehicle off its supports when applying force to a spanner.
Wherever possible, initially slacken tight fastenings before
raising the car off the ground.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when working under the
vehicle and when using power tools.
Working On The Vehicle
ALWAYS seek specialist advice unless you are justifiably
confident about carrying out each job. The safety of your
vehicle affects you, your passengers and other road users.
DON'T lean over, or work on, a running engine unless it is
strictly necessary, and keep long hair and loose clothing well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts. Note that it is
theoretically possible for fluorescent striplighting to make an
engine fan appear to be stationary
-
double check whether it
is spinning or not! This is the sort of error that happens when
you're really tired and not thinking straight. So...
...DON'T work on your car when you're over tired.
ALWAYS work in a well ventilated area and don't inhale dust
- it may contain asbestos or other harmful substances.
NEVER run the engine indoors, in a confined space or over
a pit.
REMOVE your wrist watch, rings and all other jewellery before
doing any work on the vehicle
-
and especially when working
on the electrical system.
DON'T remove the radiator or expansion tank filler cap when
the cooling system is hot, or you may get scalded by escaping
coolant or steam. Let the system cool down first and even
then, if the engine is not completely cold, cover the cap with
a cloth and gradually release the pressure.
NEVER drain oil, coolant or automatic transmission fluid when
the engine is hot. Allow time for it to cool sufficiently to avoid
scalding you.
ALWAYS keep antifreeze, brake and clutch fluid away from
vehicle paintwork. Wash off any spills immediately.
TAKE CARE to avoid touching any engine or exhaust system
component unless it is cool enough not to burn you.

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

• Repeat this operation three more times until the
complete code number has been entered, if the code
has been entered in correctly LED B will start flashing.
• Release button A (see illustration
1B).
Red LED B
flashes for 8 seconds indicating the new remote unit's
code has been stored.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the LED does not illuminate
when remote unit button (illustration 1B, button
O is pressed, change the remote unit's battery.
• Insert the emergency key A into the emergency switch
slot in the glove compartment turn the key to the left to
switch the alarm off (see inset).
• Turn the key back towards its original position to
switch the alarm system back on.
IMPORTANT NOTE: As the alarm system absorbs
energy, if you are not planning on using the car
for a long period of time, turn the alarm exclusion
key to the off position, so as not to run the vehicle
battery down.
• 2. IGNITION SWITCH AND
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
IGNITION SWITCH
2. The ignition/steering column lock key, once inserted
in the ignition lock, can be placed in any of the
following four positions:
• PARK
-
With the key in this
position the side and tail lights
can be turned on, the steering
column locked and the keys
can be removed. Press button
A to turn the key to PARK.
• STOP
-
When the key is
turned to the STOP position the steering column will be
locked, and the keys can be removed.
• MAR
-
This is the driving position. When the key is in
this position all the electrical devices are energised.
• AW
-
Turning the key to this position starts the
engine.
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
• LOCKING
-
To apply the steering wheel lock turn the
steering wheel slightly to the left or right when the key is
at STOP or PARK.
• UNLOCKING
-
Rocking the steering wheel gently back
and forth while turning the ignition key to MAR unlocks
the steering wheel.
• 3. PANEL INDICATORS
INSTRUMENT DISPLAY PANEL
3. These are the instrument panel warning LED indicators
for all FIAT Tipo/Tempra models. Your vehicle will only
have Panel Indicators relevant to your particular car.
• 4. ELECTRONIC CHECK PANEL
4. The electronic check panel is not fitted to models
with basic trim.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The check panel will not
indicate if the tail light fuses blow at the same
time, or if there is a circuit failure within the panel
display.
SIDE AND HATCHBACK DOORS
When the ignition key is at MAR, the check panel LEDs
g, h, i, I, m and n monitor the light bulbs and fuses.
LEDs a, b, c, d, and e monitor incomplete closure of
the side doors and hatchback.
• Never remove the key when the car is moving.
If you do, the steering wheel will lock the first
time you turn it.
• If the ignition lock has been tampered with or
shows any sign of damage (e.g. attempted theft),
have the lock checked at your nearest FIAT
Service Centre.
M Choke Oil pressure warning
Direction indicators (®) Handbrake engaged
-X: Side lights m Rear window defroster
10 High beam head
lights '•y Injection system warning light
<1* Rear fog lights • Battery warning
A Hazard warning lights A Seat belts not
buckled
m ABS brake warning a Automatic transmission fluid warning
o Brake pad wear warning a Doors not properly closed
Turbo pressure warning Trailer direction indicators
10 Front fog lights a Diesel fuel filter condenstate warning
•515" Diesel heater/glow •515" plugs 3
SWITCHING OFF THE ALARM
1C. Some models
are fitted with an
alarm exclusion
switch, which can
be found inside
the glove
compartment. If
the alarm is faulty
or the remote control batteries are flat:

EMERGENCY STARTING
To release the spare
wheel, jack and tool kit:
16A. Undo strap A to
release the jack from the support. Unscrew nut B, to
remove the spare wheel.
16B. Release the jack from the tool stand by lifting tab C.
The arrangement of the tools in their holder might have
one of the configurations shown in illustration 16B.
• 17. RAISING
THE VEHICLE
17A. To raise the vehicle,
position the jack under
the side member, about
20 cm from the wheel
arch. Turn the jack
handle until the its
grooved head (see inset)
fits the flange at the base of the sill.
REMOVING A WHEEL
17B. Loosen all the wheel bolts in the
order shown.
• Lift the car until the wheel is about
25 mm
(1
in.) off the ground.
• The hub cap is secured by only three wheel bolts.
• Remove the hub cap, then unscrew the fourth wheel
bolt, and remove the wheel.
• Put the spare wheel on, making sure that the aligning
peg or pegs on the hub fits into the hole/s in the rim.
• Attach the wheel with a single bolt and then put the
wheel cover back on so that the largest hole fits over
the bolt holding on the wheel. Screw in the other three
bolts, which also hold on the wheel cover.
• Lower the car and remove the jack. Tighten the wheel
bolts evenly in a criss-cross fashion, as shown in
illustration 17C.
RAISING THE VEHICLE WITH A TROLLEY JACK
• 17C. FROM THE FRONT
-
Place a hardwood board
between the jack and the car, see inset. The jack must
ONLY be positioned under the gearbox case support on
the side of the differential gears.
• 17D. FROM THE REAR
-
Put a hardwood board
between the jack and the car ONLY at the back of the
spare wheel housing.
• 18. ENGINE STARTING
JUMP STARTING YOUR CAR
Choose a fully charged battery with the same or higher
capacity than the flat battery in your car, then ...
• Make sure that the car with the flat battery's electrical
equipment has its ignition turned OFF, and that the
ignition keys are removed.
18. • Connect
one of the jump
lead clamps to
the positive
battery post of
your flat
battery. Then
clamp the other
end of the same
lead on to the positive post of the second (charged)
battery.
• Connect one end of the second jump lead to the
negative pole of the charged battery, and attach the
other end to the metal terminal (as shown) of the earth
cable from your car's flat battery.
• Run the engine of the car with the charged battery at
a medium to slow speed.
• Start the engine of the car with the flat battery, and
run the engines of both cars for about three minutes.
• To reduce voltage peaks when disconnecting the
jump leads, turn on the air fan and the heated rear
screen of the car that had the flat battery.
• Remove the jump leads, starting with the negative
clamp connected to the car with the flat battery's earth.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When disconnecting the jump
leads DO NOT switch on the headlights in place of
the heated rear screen, as the peak voltage may
blow the headlight bulbs.
BUMP STARTING YOUR CAR
IMPORTANT NOTES: 1) Never bump start a car
fitted with a catalytic converter, as the sudden rush
of unburnt fuel into the catalytic converter could
damage the converter beyond repair.
2) On models fitted with automatic transmission
bump starting is not possible.
3) Ensure that the key is in the ignition and is
turned to MAR while the car is being pushed, or
the steering wheel will lock.
To bump start a car:
• Place the key in the ignition and turn to MAR.
• Engage a medium gear (2nd or 3rd), NOT REVERSE.
• Hold the clutch pedal down while someone pushes.
• When the pushed car has reached a fair speed, with
the car still in gear, release the clutch pedal.
• The engine should now turn over and start running.
Depress the clutch and keep the car running.
16

CHAPTER 3
FACTS ARID FIGURES
This chapter provides you with
all the information you will
need about your car, especially
in connection with servicing and
repairing it. First, you'll need to
identify the engine type. If you
don't know it already, see
Chapter 6, Repairs and
Replacements.
Before buying parts, be sure to
take your vehicle's chassis and
engine numbers with you
-
see
Auto-Biography on page 1
and PART G: IDENTIFICATION
NUMBERS in this chapter.
Chapter Contents
• -< Page No. Page No.
PART
A:
MAJOR MILESTONES 17 PART E: REPAIR DATA 20
PART
B:
VITAL STATISTICS 18 PART
F:
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS 23
PART C: CAPACITIES 19 PART G: IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS 27
PART
D:
SERVICE DATA 19
•
IMPORTANT NOTE: Many detail changes have taken place over the years, and there have been many different Special
Editions and Options available. The following information will be true of most cases but can only be taken as a general
guide. Consult your local FIAT dealer for confirmation.
PART A: MAJOR MILESTONES
Overview Although the Tipo and Tempra were presented as
separate models, they are essentially the same cars, with detail
differences. However, all Tipos are 5-door hatchbacks (apart
from some 3-door 1.4 and the relatively rare 2.0 i.e. 16v, both
from 1993); all Tempras are 4-door saloons (with a boot) or
5-door estates. Apart from the rear bodywork and very slight
differences in rear suspension rates, both models are the
same, although years of production and options available
(including some engine options and some model names) are
not necessarily the same, and changes were not always
introduced to both model names at the same time
-
if at all.
All models come with front disc, rear drum brakes, except the

Tipo
2.0 i.e. 16v (but NOT the 2.0 i.e. GT), and the Tempra 2.0
i.e. SXand SLX models, which have discs front and rear.
IMPORTANT NOTE: This manual does NOT cover 1.8 and
2.0 litre Tipo or Tempra models.
June 1988 Tipo range introduced, as 1.4, 1.4 DGT, 1.6 DGT
and 1.6 DGT SX models with 1372ccand 1580cc petrol
engines. Also 7.97".dswith 1929 turbo diesel engine DGT and
Ids with digital instruments. All models with galvanised steel
body.
October 1988 Tipo 1.7D diesel version launched.
April 1990 Formula and S versions of Tipo 1.4 introduced.
April 1990 Also 1.6 DGT Selecta version introduced with CVT
gearbox.
July 1990 Tempra 1.4 and 1.6 (petrol) and 1.9D, (non-turbo
diesel), and 1.9 TD5 and TD5X (turbo diesel) 4-door saloon
models introduced. CVT auto-transmission available on 1.6
petrol models only
-
same as Selecta on Tipo models, but not
named as such. Tempra 1.8 i.e. SX with high performance
1756cc double-overhead camshaft (DOHC) fuel-injected
engine introduced. Tempra 1.4 and 1.6 basic and 5 models
with regular, analogue instruments; Tempra SXand SX i.e.
with digital instruments.
Tipo 1.8 i.e. DGT model, with high performance 1756cc fuel
injected, DOHC petrol engine introduced.
June 1991 Tempra Station Wagon introduced, as 1.6 or 1.8
i.e. models, with 2-part horizontally split tailgate and high-
roof styling.

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

14C. Also open
the drain plug or
tap (B) at the
centre of the rear
flank of the
engine block on
both petrol and
diesel engines. Drain the coolant into a container. On models
with a separate expansion tank, detach the hose from the
expansion tank and drain the tank.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: From time to time it's a good
idea to flush the cooling system. With the bottom hose
re-connected, disconnect and remove the top hose from
the radiator. Insert the end of a garden hose first into
the hose (packing the gap with a rag) and then the
radiator inlet, flushing the system in both directions until
the water comes out clear. Q
IMPORTANT NOTE: Flush first with the heater control
turned OFF until the engine and radiator are clear, so
that you don't flush sediment into the heater. Then with
the heater turned ON, flush the heater system out.
14D. To prevent air-locks
forming in the cooling
system as it is refilled (all
hoses and the drain plug
reconnected, of course!),
most models have two
air-bleed screws strategi-
cally positioned in the
system. These should be
opened before refilling.
The first (B or C) is
located on the right-
hand side of the radiator
(type dependant on
version)...
PART C: TRANSMISSION
• Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level.
The combined oil level and filler plug is on the forward-facing
side of the gearbox. Check the level with the car on level
ground.
15. From beneath the car, wipe
around the filler plug with a rag
to prevent dirt contamination.
Remove the plug
-
using a 10
mm Allen key
-
and top-up if
necessary, using the specified
Tutela transmission oil (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures), until oil just dribbles
from the filler hole. Refit the
plug.
14E.... and the
second (D)
-

when fitted
-
is
found on the
heater hose near
the top of the
engine. Only
undo the screws
by two or three
turns. Retighten both screws when air-free coolant emerges.
This is the petrol engine...
14F. ...and this
the diesel engine
location.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
It seems that
latest Tipos and
Tempras were
built without some or all bleed screws. Ryauto
recommend removing the highest point of the top hose,
refilling with coolant, while an assistant refits the hose
smartly, losing as little coolant as possible. D
Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of clean water
and fresh Paraflu anti-freeze. Tighten the bleed screws (or
hose) when coolant, and not air, comes out steadily. Run the
engine for a few minutes and bleed again.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is highly likely that more air will be
dislodged when you first use the car. Keep your eye on
the coolant level (See Job 2)
-
perhaps carrying some
50/50 diluted coolant with you for the first few journeys.
• Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil.
16. The combined
gearbox and final
drive oil should be
drained at the time
shown in the
Service Interval
Chart. Do so only
after the car has
been used and the
gearbox oil is warm, so that it flows well. Remove the drain
plug (on the end-face of the gearbox, accessed from beneath
the car
-
not much room to get a spanner in!) and drain the
oil into a container. (See page 8 on oil disposal.) Leave for 10
minutes to drain completely, and refill with the correct grade
of Tutela transmission oil through the level/filler plug, as
described in Job 15.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.