1988 FIAT TEMPRA remove seats

SAFETY FIRST!
If an air bag has been fitted to your vehicle:
• DO NOT apply stickers or any other objects to
the steering wheel as this may restrict the
operation of the air bag.
• NEVER travel with anything on your lap or in
front of your chest
• NEVER drive with a cigarette, pipe, pen or any
other object in your mouth.
• 12. INTERIOR LIGHTS
COURTESY LIGHT
On most models the courtesy light is positioned in the
centre of the roof.
• With the light switch in the central position the light
turns on when either of the front doors is opened.
• When the switch is in the right position the light
remains on.
• With the switch in the left position the light is
switched off.
• 13. SUNROOF OPERATION
14B. Positioned at the front of the bonnet is a release
catch B. Lift catch up to release.
14C. Lift the
bonnet and pull
the support rod
C out of its
holder.
When the
• 15. LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT
INCREASING THE CARGO AREA
FOLDING THE BACK SEATS
-
Use the following
procedure to fold the rear seat forwards:
• Pull the strap at the centre of the backseat cushion in
an upwards direction to swing up the seat cushion.
15A. On models fitted with lever A, pull the lever up to
release the seat backrest.
15B. Models fitted with a lockable lever B, turn the key
to position 2 to unlock (1 to lock), then lift the lever in
the direction arrowed.
• Fold the backrest cushion forwards.
BONNET AND LUGGAGE
L 2 . fj§
• 14 .BONNET
OPENING THE BONNET
14A. Pull the bonnet release lever A, toward the
steering wheel to release the bonnet catch.
To repositioning the back seats
-
reverse the order
described above.
WHEEL CHANGING
• 16. CHANGING THE WHEEL IN AN
EMERGENCY
CHANGING A WHEEL
Whenever possible park the car on firm level ground.
Put the car into reverse gear and pull on the handbrake.
Keep chocks or pieces of wood in the boot of your car,
which can be wedged in front and behind the
diagonally-opposite wheel to the one being removed to
prevent the car from rolling. If you haven't got a piece
of wood handy, use large rocks or stones.
The location of the spare wheel, jack and tools for most
models is in the luggage compartment under the mat.
However on some models the spare wheel and tools are
located in a storage container within the side walls of the
rear luggage compartment.
bonnet is fully
raised, place the
tip of the rod in
the recess B located in the bonnet.
• Pull handle A down
and turn anti-clockwise,
slides back.
13B. To operate a
sunroof with
electric controls:
13A. SUNROOF CONTROLS
As an optional extra
some models are fitted
with a sunroof. To
operate the manually
operated sunroof:
The sunroof lifts up and then
• Press rocker
switch C either at
the front or back
edge to open or close the sunroof.
Z3

G Step 6: Fit the four or five smaller bolts, according to
model (see illustration Job
3-4,
arrowed) close to the spark
plug holes, and tighten to their specified torque. See Chapter

3, Facts
and Figures.
G Step 7: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. When connecting the exhaust always

use a
new flange gasket.
G Step 8: Ensure that all connections are sound and secure.
G Step 9: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. Refer to Job
1
when fitting the timing

belt.
When connecting the exhaust always use a new flange
gasket.
G Step 10: Ensure that all connections are sound and
secure.
G Step 11: Top up the cooling system with the correct

50/50
solution of FL 'Tutela' anti-freeze solution. Check the

oil
level.
• Step 5: Clean and check all components for wear and
signs of 'scuffing'.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! If the camshaft is changed, the
followers should be changed as well. If the bores in the
housing have 'picked up', these cannot be machined and
the housing should be replaced together with new cam
followers. B
• Step 6: Refit the camshaft to the cam housing and insert
the cam followers and shims in their correct bores, using
grease to keep them in place. For adjustment of valve clear-
ances see Job 7.
2 ZeASt, s * when re'inserti"9the
nfW^c/ !X J?^ camshaft, it can be difficult
to get the camshaft fully in
to its end seal. DON'T try hammering it in
-
all you'll
do is damage the seal. Lubricate the seal with fresh
engine oil, insert the camshaft until it is aligned with
and just touching the seal. Push the camshaft with a
twisting motion until it eases its way into the seal.
Job 4. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head - dismantling and
overhauling.
G Step 3: Remove the

cam
followers and shims

from
the housing,
keeping them in the
correct order for refitting

in the
same positions.
Refer to the illustration Job
2-1
for the components covered

in this
Job.
G Step 1: Remove the camshaft housing from the cylinder
head. See Job 2.
G Step 2: Remove the
camshaft housing end

plate
(or the distributor
mounted in the same

place on
certain models).
G Step 4: Slide the
camshaft out, taking
care not to damage the
camshaft bearings with

the cam
lobes.
• Step 7: Use a suitable valve spring compressor to
compress each spring in turn to allow the removal of the split
collets from the valve stems. Inexpensive valve spring
compressors are readily available from auto, accessory stores.
Take care not to lose the collets when releasing the spring
compressor.
Q Step 9: The valve spring caps, springs and spring seats
can all be lifted clear and the valves withdrawn from their
guides.
• Step 8:
These are the
items to be
removed once
the valve is
withdrawn.
1 - flat washer 2 - lower cap 3 - inner spring
4 - outer spring 5 - upper cap 6 - collets Job 4-8

&CASU / # Q StGP 101 The ValV6S i* (/ should slide freely out of
their guides. Any resistance
may be caused by a build up of carbon, or a slight burr
on the stem where the collets engage. This can usually
be removed by careful use of fine wet-or-dry paper,
allowing you to
withdraw the valves
without scoring their
guides. Keep the valves
in their correct order by
wrapping a numbered
piece of masking tape
around each stem.
• Step 12: Clean the
carbon from the valves with
a rotary wire brush and
wash them in paraffin.
Wash the valve springs,
caps, seats and collets and
dry.
/ • Before grinding-in the
valves, clean the tops of the
valve heads back to shiny
metal. Now the sucker on the end of your valve
grinding stick won't keep falling off when you grind-
in the valves!
head. Don't hesitate to seek the advice of your local agent if
you have any doubts.
• Step 14: Examine the valve seats for pitting or burning.
Also, check the valve seats in the cylinder head. Small pits can
be removed by grinding the valves onto their seats. The seats
in the cylinder head will have to be recut (again, by your local
FIAT agent if the pitting is too deep), and new valves fitted.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! These cylinder heads use
hardened valves and seats for use with unleaded petrol.
We advise you to consult your FIAT agent or engine
specialist for machining if anything other than light
valve grinding is required. B
FACT FILE: VALVE GRINDING
• Step 15: Apply a small quantity of
coarse grinding paste evenly round the valve
seat. A valve grinding stick with a suction pad
slightly smaller than the valve head should
be selected. Put a dab of moisture onto the suction pad and
press the grinding stick to the first valve.
• Step 16: Lower
the valve stem into its
guide and, holding the
grinding stick
between the palms of
your hands, rub your
hands together (like a
bushman making a
fire), rotating the
valve and grinding the
two seats together.
Lift the valve
regularly, say every
ten or so turns, to
allow the grinding
paste to be redis-
tributed. When you
can feel the paste
wearing smooth,
remove the valve and
wipe all the surfaces
clean. A complete ring
of grey contact area
should be visible on
the valve head and its
seat in the cylinder head. If necessary, start off with coarse
paste to remove the deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to
obtain a smooth finish.
• Make sure that no paste is allowed to enter the guide. This
would cause a lot of wear to the valve stem and guide.
• A narrow contact band means more seat pressure and
longer life. A wide band allows rapid valve burning.
• A complete ring of grey contact area should be visible on
the valve head and its seat in the cylinder head.
• If necessary, start off with coarse paste to remove the
deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to obtain a smooth
finish.
• If pitting is too bad, you could have the valve face and the
valve seats resurfaced or, in worst cases, the valve and/or valve
seat (in the cylinder head) will have to be replaced.
• Consult your FIAT dealer or engine specialist if in doubt.
LJ Step 11: The cylinder head is made of light alloy and is
easily damaged when being cleaned. Use a rotary wire brush
for the combustion chambers and ports, but no sharp objects
such as screwdrivers should be used. The machined surfaces
must have all traces of old gasket removed by use of a straight
edge. Then wash down with paraffin to remove old oil and
dirt and dry with clean rag.
At all costs, avoid gouging
the cylinder head. This can
be very expensive to have
put right.
• Step 13: The cylinder
head can be checked for
distortion by use of a
straight edge and feeler
gauge. At the same time check for excessive corrosion. If you
are in doubt, or if the old gasket had blown, have the cylinder
head refaced by your FIAT agent or engine specialist. The
valves should be checked for side movement in their guides.
Anything but the very slightest tells you that the valve guides
are in need of replacement. Your local FIAT agent or engine
specialist should do this job. Examine the valve seats for
pitting or burning, also check their mating seats in the cylinder
72

Job 9. Drive-shaft - removal
and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For removal of the diesel Turbo's
drive-shaft, see also PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A.
G Step 1: Drain the transmission oil.
• Step 8B: Diesel turbo
models have a bolt-on inboard
flange.
• Step 9: Withdraw the shaft
from the transmission (illus-
tration Job
9-8A,
part b).
G Step 2: Ask a helper to apply the footbrake very firmly
while
you
slacken the drive-shaft-to-hub nut, using a long bar
for
good
leverage after
opening out the
staking on the nut, as
far
as
possible. DON'T

do so
with the car off

the
ground because

the
very large force
needed could pull it off

its stands.
Remove the

nut
after the car has
been raised.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer)
constant velocity joint -
G Step 8A: Undo the

inboard
gaiter retaining

clip
(a) and release the
gaiter.
• Step 11: Refill the
transmission with oil.
See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.
G Step 3: Slacken the hub nuts on the side to be worked

on.
Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands.
Remove the roadwheel.
G Step 6: Remove the

hub
carrier securing

bolts
(arrowed) from the

base
of the front
suspension strut and tap

the
carrier down and out

of the
clamp. Pull the

top
outwards.
G Step 7: Push

or tap
the drive-

shaft
splines
(arrowed) out of

the hub
carrier,

taking
care not to

damage
the
thread.
Q Step 1: Remove the drive-shaft from the car. See Job 9. G Step 4: Unbolt the
brake hose support clip

from
the suspension strut.
G Step 5: Disconnect the
track rod end from the
steering arm using a
suitable splitter tool.
• Step 2: Remove
the gaiter retaining
clip...
Q Step 3: ...and pull
the gaiter clear.
• Step 4: Remove
the circlip and pull the
CV joint from the shaft.
Q Step 5: Thoroughly clean the joint with petrol or other
agent and dry. Check that the balls and their seats are still in a
good, unbroken shiny condition
-
no score marks. Fit a new
joint if in doubt.
• Step 6: Fit the new gaiter onto the shaft, followed by the
CV joint and circlip. Pack the joint with the grease supplied or
with FL Tutela MRM2 grease.
Q Step 7: Pull the gaiter over the joint and secure with the
retaining band or new screw-type clip. The drive-shaft
assembly is now ready for refitting.
• Step 10: Refit in the
reverse order, using a new
drive-shaft nut tightened to the
specified torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures Stake the nut
into the drive shaft
groove, as shown.

Q Step 4: Re-assemble in the reverse order using torque
settings shown in Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures
Job 8. Bleeding the power
steering.
The power assisted steering system is self-bleeding. You
should slowly apply full lock alternately to the right and left
with the car stationary and the engine running, while an
assistant tops up the reservoir. This operation should be
carried out each time the connecting pipes are removed or
refitted.
Job 9. Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting.
G Step 1: Take note of the components shown here.
G Step 2: Support the car on axle stands and remove the
front wheels for access.
G Step 3: Undo the nuts at the bottom of the anti-roll links
(see illustration Job
9-1,
part 4).
G Step 4: Undo the four bolts securing the two mounting
brackets (Job
9-1,
part 8) and remove the anti-roll bar.
G Step 5: Before refitting, check the condition of the
rubber mounting blocks and bushes and replace if necessary.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! The washers (Job
9-1,
part 6)
must be fitted with their convex side facing the rubber
bush (part 7). B
lob 10. Rear anti-roll bar (when
fitted).
• Step 3: Undo the three mounting bolts from each side
(see illustration Job
1-1D)
and wriggle the anti-roll bar from
under the car.
• Step 4: Check the anti-roll bar for obvious distortion or
corrosion and the bushes for deterioration. Replace if
necessary.
I—J Step 5: Refit in reverse order.
Job 11. Front shock absorber -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Slacken the bolts of the relevant front wheel,
then raise the front of the car and support on axle stands, so
that the front wheels hang free. See Chapter
1,
Safety First!
Q Step 2: Remove the relevant wheel then detach the brake
hose from the suspension strut bracket.
• Step 3: Remove
the two bolts
('spannered' and
arrowed) which
secure the hub carrier
to the base of the
shock absorber and
separate them.
• Step 4: Working
under-bonnet, undo
the three bolts
('spannered' and
arrowed) securing the
top mounting to the
bodywork turret.
• Step 5: Lower
the suspension strut
to the ground.
• Step 6: Using two coil
spring compressors spread
over as many spring coils as
possible, compress the spring,
tightening each compressor a
little at a time, in turn, until
the spring ends are free of
their seats.
• Because of the irregular shape of the top end of the
spring coils, it can be difficult to use spring
compressors safely.
• We recommend having this work carried out by your
FIAT agent with the correct compressing tool. G Step 1: Support the rear of the car on axle stands.
Job 9-1
1
-
anti-roll bar 2
-
mounting bracket (2 off) 3
-
front crossmember 4
-
anti-roll bar link rod
(2
off) 5
-
lower wishbone 6
-
washer 7
-
rubber bush 8
-
mounting bracket bolt (4 off)
G Step 2: Remove the fuel tank as described in PART
F:
FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 7: B INSIDE INFORMATION! Special tool, FIAT
no. 1857509000 is required together with another tool,
no. 1874551000 in order to prevent the centre rod from

PART I: BODY AMD INTERIOR
PART 1: Contents
Job 1. Bonnet
-
removal and refitting. Job 8. Tempra boot lid locking mechanism
-
removal and
Job 2. Bonnet locking mechanism
-
replacement and refitting.
adjustment. Job 9. Front bumper and grille
-
removal and refitting.
Job 3. Radiator grille
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear bumper
-
removal and refitting.
Job 4. Tipo/Tempra tailgate
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Door trim panel
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Tipo tailgate locking mechanism
-
removal and Job 12. Door component
-
removal and replacement
refitting. Job 13. Door removal, replacement and adjustment.
Job 6. Tempra estate tailgate locking mechanism
-
removal Job 14. Door mirror
-
replacement.
and refitting. Job 15. Sun roof
-
removal and refitting.
Job 7. Tempra boot lid
-
removal and refitting. Job 16. Front seats
-
removal and refitting.
-Job 17. Rear seats
-
removal and refitting.
Job 1. Bonnet - removal and
refitting.
Job 2. Bonnet locking mechanism
- replacement and adjustment.
• Step 1: Note the bonnet hinges, support and stops.
G Step 2: Use the prop and hold the bonnet open. Outline
the hinge positions on the bonnet with masking tape for
accurate refitment.
G Step 3: Ask an assistant to support the bonnet. Undo the
two hinge fixing bolts. Carefully lift the bonnet clear.
if refitting the bonnet, put a
piece of cloth under each
rear corner to protect the bodywork.
• Step 1: This drawing shows left and right hand drive
layouts. Select which is right for your car.
• Step 2: The two screws (illustration Job 2-3 arrowed)
used to fix the locking pin/safety catch assembly to the bonnet
are also used for fore and aft adjustment. This is best done a
little at a time until smooth operation is achieved.
• Step 3: Height
adjustment (levelling with
the wings) is achieved by
screwing the bump stops
(inset, arrowed) up or
down. Then slacken the
G Step 5: When refitting, tighten the bolts just enough to
grip the hinges, then carefully lower the bonnet to check for
correct alignment all round
-
equal gapping.
When the alignment is satisfactory, tighten the bolts to their
correct torque, See Chapter 3, Facts and Figures
[G Step 4: To remove the lock/striker assembly, separate the
cable eyelet from the operating lever hook, see illustration Job
2-1, parts 13 and 14
1 - lock/striker assembly, front panel 2 - locking pin/safety catch, bonnet 3 - release lever. (Also fitted other side, some R/H drive cars) 4 - cable, L/H drive 5 - cable, R/H drive
and secondary cable, R/H drive 7 - screw 8
-
washer 9 - bolt 10 - bolt
11 - cable clip 12 - cable fixing screw 13 - cable eyelet 14 - operating lever hook Job 2-1
locking nut (hidden
behind the locking pin
spring) and screw the
locking pin up or down
until the bonnet will shut
when dropped from 30 cm height and then have no
movement on the lock. Don't forget to tighten the locknut.

Job 15. Sun roof - removal and
refitting.
PART A: GENERAL
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! If an electric sunroof fails to
work, it can be operated manually with the aid of a key
positioned behind the cover panel in the roof light
assembly. By engaging the key in the exposed drive pin,
you can turn it and adjust the roof position. Q
• Step A1: SPECIAL NOTE. Here we cover the
replacement of the electric motor (where fitted) and the
glass roof panel. We strongly recommend that any
further work, which could involve the removal of the
headlining, should be entrusted to your FIAT agent or
body specialist.
PART B: TO REMOVE THE MOTOR:
• Step B1: Close the sunroof fully and then disconnect the
battery earth lead.
Q Step B2: Carefully lever out the panel cover and remove
the roof light lens.
Q Step B3: Undo the screws and lower the panel...
G Step B4: ...then unplug the two connectors from the
other side of the panel.
O Step B5: Unplug the connector from the motor cable,
once exposed...
• Step B8: Refit by reassembling in reverse order.
PART C: TO REMOVE THE GLASS PANEL:
• Step C1: Position the glass in the fully tilted mode and
remove the mouldings (arrowed) by sliding them rearwards.
• Step C2: Undo the
mounting bolts (two
per side) found behind
the mouldings...
• Step C3: and
raise the glass to
remove it from the
frame.
• Step C4: Refit in
the reverse order.
Job 16. Front seats - removal and
refitting.
PART A: SEATS WITHOUT PRETENSIONERS
• Step A1:
Undo the screws
(arrowed) and
remove the seat
mounting cover
from both sides.
• Step A2:
Undo the four
bolts
-
two per
side of each seat
-

fixing the runners
to the floor and
remove the seat.
PART B: SEATS WITH SEAT BELT PRETENSIONERS -
REMOVAL
IMPORTANT NOTES: i) In a collision, the pretensioners
are activated whether the belt is buckled or not. They
cannot be reset and must be replaced! If the seat belt
was buckled, it too, must be replaced,
ii) Read Safety First! Steps B2 and B3.
he motor.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Handle pretensioners with extreme care
-
don't drop.
• Never cause impact to the tensioning device
-
which
could set off the pre-loaded spring.
• The components must be fitted with care to avoid
knocking or jarring.
• Detach the pretensioner if working on the seat.
• Always insert the blue safety clip before removing or
refitting the seat
• Never attempt to service or dismantle the unit
• Never grasp the buckle or the power unit
• Step B6:
...then undo the
mounting screws
(arrowed).
D INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The relay is
found here
(a).H
• Step B7: You
can now withdraw

gjpjgjjl 'READING' YOUR SPARK PLUGS
Champion explain how the condition of spark plug firing ends can act as a guide to the state of tune and general condition of the engine. The examples shown are assumed to be the correct grade for the engine.
NORMAL
Core nose lightly coated with grey-brown deposits. Electrodes not burning unduly
-
gap increasing by about 0.01 mm every 1,000 miles approximately (with the use of unleaded fuel). Spark plugs correct for engine.
OIL FOULING
Deposits can short-circuit firing end, weakening or eliminating spark. Causes: worn valve guides, bores or piston rings, or while new engine is running-in. Replace spark plugs. Cure oiling problem.
SPLIT CORE NOSE
(May first appear as hair-line-crack). Probably caused by: Over-advanced ignition timing. Faulty distributor advance mechanism. Use of low octane fuel. Weak mixture. Manifold air-leaks. Cooling system problems. Incorrect gap-setting technique.
HEAVY DEPOSITS
Possible causes: Fuel or oil additives. Excessive upper cylinder lubricant. Worn valve guides. Unvarying speed (stationary engine). Replace spark plugs.
OVERHEATING
Likely causes are: Over-advanced ignition timing, or faulty distributor advance mechanism. Use of low octane fuel. Weak mixture. Discard spark plugs showing signs of overheating, and cure the cause.
CARBON FOULING
Look for dull black sooty deposits. (Unleaded fuel carbon fouling can appear similar to oil fouling). Deposits can short circuit the firing end, weakening or eliminating the spark. Check for: Over-rich mixture, faulty choke or clogged air filter. Replace spark plugs.
INITIAL PRE-IGNITION
Caused by serious overheating. Causes are those listed for overheating, but may be more severe. Corrective measures are urgently needed before engine damage occurs. Discard plugs in this condition.
FACT FILE: CORRECT INSTALLATION
• Make sure seating areas are perfectly clean.
• Insert plug finger tight to seat. Ensure plug 'spins' freely.
• PLUGS WITH SEATING GASKET: Tighten to relevant torque setting.
• PLUGS WITH TAPER SEATS: Tighten a further l/16th turn ONLY - no further!
• Overtightening can damage cylinder head or make taper seat plugs impossible to remove.
RECOMMENDED FL LUBRICANTS
FOR YOUR FIAT TIPO ARID TEMPRA
COMPONENT/ TIPO & TEMPRA TIPO SELECTA & TEMPRA SELECTA TIPO & TEMPRA DIESEL CAPACITY 1.4 and 1.6 1.6 and 1.6 i.e. 1.7 D, 1.9 Dand 1.9 TD
ENGINE SELENIA 20K SELENIA 20K SELENIA TURBO DIESEL CAPACITY 3.8 L 3.8 L/4.2 L 5.0 L
MANUAL TRANSMISSION TUTELA ZC80/S -TUTELA ZC80/S CAPACITY 2.0 L -2.0 L
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION -TUTELA CVT -CAPACITY -3.5 L (a) -
DIFFERENTIAL(S) FROM GEARBOX FROM GEARBOX FROM GEARBOX CAPACITY ---
STEERING BOX TUTELA K854 TUTELA K854 TUTELA K854 CAPACITY 80 g (b) 80 g (b) 80 g (b)
CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINTS TUTELA MRM2 TUTELA MRM2 TUTELA MRM2 CAPACITY 95 g (each) 95 g (each) 95 g (each)
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TUTELA PLUS 3 TUTELA PLUS 3 TUTELA PLUS 3 CAPACITY (NON-ABS) 0.40
L
(c) 0.40 L (c) 0.40
L
(c)
COOLANT PARAFLU 11 PARAFLU 11 PARAFLU 11 CAPACITY 6.5 L(d) 6.5 L(d) 8.8
L
(d)
WINDSCREEN WASHER TANK AREXONS DP1 AREXONS DP1 AREXONS DP1 CAPACITY 5.0 L 5.0 L 5.0 L
NOTES: (a) DRAIN/REFILL CAPACITY (b) IF MODEL FITTED WITH POWER ASSISTED STEERING USE 0.75 L TUTELA Gl/A (c) IF ABS BRAKING IS FITTED USE 0.52 L TUTELA TOP 4 (d) COOLING SYSTEM AT A CONCENTRATION OF 50% COOLANT TO 50% WATER
CHANGE PERIODS: See Chapter 5, Service Intervals
154