1988 FIAT TEMPRA length

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

and explosions. Do not allow resin or 2-pack adhesive hardener,
or that supplied with filler or 2-pack stopper, to come into
contact with skin or eyes. Read carefully the safety notes
supplied on the can, tube or packaging and always wear
impervious gloves and goggles when working with them.
Fluoroelastomers
Fluoroelastomers are commonly used for oil seals, wiring and
cabling, bearing surfaces, gaskets, diaphragms, hoses and '0'
rings. If they are subjected to temperatures greater than 315
degrees C, they will decompose and can be potentially
hazardous. Some decomposition may occur at temperatures
above 200 degrees C, and it is obvious that when a car has
been in a fire or has been dismantled with the assistance of a
cutting torch or blow torch, the fluoroelastomers can
decompose in the manner indicated above.
According to the Health and Safety Executive, "Skin contact
with this liquid or decomposition residues can cause painful and
penetrating burns. Permanent irreversible skin and tissue
damage can occur". Damage can also be caused to eyes or by
the inhalation of fumes created as fluoroelastomers are burned
or heated.
After a vehicle has been exposed to fire or high temperatures:
1. Do not touch blackened or charred seals or equipment.
2. Preferably, don't handle parts containing decomposed
fluoroelastomers, but if you must, wear goggles and PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) or neoprene protective gloves whilst doing
so. Never handle such parts unless they are completely cool.
3. Contaminated parts, residues, materials and clothing,
including protective clothing and gloves, should be disposed of
by an approved contractor to landfill or by incineration
according to national or local regulations. Oil seals, gaskets and
'0' rings, along with contaminated material, must not
be burned.
1. Always have a fire extinguisher of the correct type at arm's
length when working on the fuel system. If you do have a fire,
DON'T PANIC. Use the extinguisher effectively by directing it at
the base of the fire.
2. NEVER use a naked flame anywhere in the workplace.
3. KEEP your inspection lamp well away from any source of
petrol (gasoline) such as when disconnecting a carburettor float
bowl or fuel line.
4. NEVER use petrol (gasoline) to clean parts. Use paraffin
(kerosene), white spirits, or, a proprietary degreaser.
5. NO SMOKING. There's a risk of fire or of transferring
dangerous substances to your mouth and, in any case, ash
falling into mechanical components is to be avoided.
FACT FILE: FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CARS
• Whenever you have to raise a wheel off the
ground and turn it by hand, always ensure that
the opposite-side's wheel to the one being lifted is
also off the ground and free to turn and that both wheels remaining
on the ground are held by the parking brake (if possible) and
securely chocked in both directions.
• ALWAYS have the gearbox in neutral (or 'N' in the case of
automatics). In the case of
some
4 wheel drive automatics and those
with permanent 4WD, it is necessary to disengage the 4WD system
by special means.
• Consult your handbook or seek advice from your main dealer.
6. BE METHODICAL in everything you do, use common sense,
and think of safety at all times.
ENVIRONMENT FIRST!
The used oil from the sump of
just
one car
can
cover
an
area of
water the size of two football pitches, cutting off the oxygen
supply
and
harming swans, ducks, fish and other river lift.
When you drain your engine oil
-
don't oil the drain!
Pouring oil
down the
drain will
cause
pollution. It is
also an
offense.
Don't mix used
oil with other
materials, such
as paint and
solvents,
because this
makes
recycling
difficult.
Take used oil
to an oil
recycling bank.
Telephone
FREE on 0800 663366 to find the location of your nearest oil
bank, or contact you local authority recycling officer.
OIL POLLUTES WATER
USE YOUR BRAIN-
NOT THE DRAIN!

Weights and Dimensions. All weights in kg. All sizes in mm.
All figures are given for 1993 model-year. Other years may vary.
ALL TIPO AND TEMPRA MODELS: Maximum roof load
-
80 kg (all models). Maximum weight on towball, when fitted - 75 kg.
VEHICLE
TIPO MODELS
1.4
1.6 manual
1.6 auto.
1.9 Turbo D
1.7 Diesel
UNLADEN WEIGHT
1030
1050
1080
1160
1060
MAXIMUM
LADEN WEIGHT
1530
1550
1580
1660
1560
TOWABLE LIMITS WITHOUT WITH BRAKES BRAKES
400
400
400
400
400
1100
1100
1100
1200
1100
OVERALL LENGTH
3958
OVERALL WHEEL FRONT WIDTH* BASE TRACK * not including mirrors
1700
All models:
2540 1436
REAR TRACK
1415
HEIGHT (unladen)
1445
TEMPRA MODELS
1.4 Saloon 1075 1575 400 1100
1.6 Saloon 1080 1580 400 1200 Saloons:
1.6 Auto Saloon 1120 1620 400 1100 4354 1695 2540 1425 1415 1445
1.9 D Saloon 1170 1670 400 1200
1.9 TD Saloon 1210 1710 450 1300
1.6 Station Wagon 1140 1705 400 1200
1.6 Auto Station Station Wagons:
Wagon 1180 1750 400 1100 4472 1695 2450 1425 1415 1500*
1.9 D Station (* roof bars - add 40 mm)
Wagon 1230 1800 450 1300
1.9 TD Station
Wagon 1270 1840 450 1300
PART C: CAPACITIES
See RECOMMENDED EL LUBRICANTS on page 154.
PART D: SERVICE DATA
All setting in mm. unless stated otherwise.
Engine
FIRING ORDER: All petrol models 1-3-4-2
INJECTION ORDER: All diesel models 1-3-4-2
IGNITION TIMING in degrees Before Top Dead Centre
-
BTDC:
850 rpm: 1372cc-8to 12 degrees. 1580/1581cc- 10 to 14
degrees.
CO CONTENT AT IDLE (MAX): Petrol only
-
0.5 to 1.5%
Exhaust VALVE CLEARANCES (mm) Inlet
(Checked when engine cold)
Petrol engines
Diesel engines
Other settings
0.4
+/-
0.05
0.3
+/-
0.05
0.5
+/-
0.05
0.35
+/-
0.05
SPARK PLUG TYPES AND GAPS
Model FIAT
1372cc V4LSR

1580/1581
cc V45LSR
Champion Gap (mm)
RN9YC
RN7YC
IDLE SPEED:
Petrol: 800 to 850 rpm
Turbo Diesel: 880 to 920 rpm
Non-turbo Diesel: 740 to 780 rpm
0.7 to 0.8
0.7 to 0.8
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT: No pedal free-travel. Adjustable pedal
height (see Chapter 5, Job 20).
BRAKE DISC PAD MINIMUM THICKNESS: Front (all models)
and Rear (models with ABS)
-
Brake pad wear warning light on
dash, but also check visually
-
minimum 1.5.
BRAKE SHOE FRICTION LINING MINIMUM THICKNESS: Rear
(when applicable)
-
minimum 1.5.
TYRE PRESSURES: See page 18

Please read the whole of the Introduction to this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 5
SERVICING YOUR CAR
Everyone wants to own a
car that starts first time,
runs reliably and lasts
longer than the average.
And it's all a question of
thorough maintenance!
If you follow the FIAT-
approved Service Jobs
listed here you can almost
guarantee that your car will
still be going strong when
others have fallen by the
wayside
-
or the hard
shoulder.
How To Use This Chapter
This chapter contains all of the servicing Jobs recommended
by FIAT for all models of Tipo and Tempra imported into the
UK except cars with 1.8 and 2 litre DOHC petrol engines. To
use the schedule, note that:
• Each letter code tells you the Service Interval at which you
should carry out each Service Job.
• Each Service Job has a Job number.
• Look up the number in the relevant part of this chapter and
you will see a complete explanation of the work.
SAFETY FIRST!
SAFETY FIRST information must always be read with
care and always taken seriously.
• In addition, please read the whole of Chapter 1,
Safety First! before carrying out any work on your
car.
• There are many hazards associated with working on
a car but all of them can be avoided by adhering
strictly to the safety rules.
• Don't skimp on safety!
SERVICE INTERVALS - INTRODUCTION
• We think it is very
important to keep things as
straightforward as possible.
And where you see this heading, you'll know there's
an extra tip to help 'make it easy' for you!
Over the years, FIAT, in common with all other manufacturers,
have lengthened their recommended service intervals. For
instance, oil changes on later FIATs don't have to take place as
often as earlier ones. In the main, these changes have not
come about because of specific modifications to the cars
themselves. They have come about because of a number of
factors: Lubricants, spark plugs, seals and other components
have improved and mechanical parts are better made due to
improved materials and production techniques.
As a result, you are recommended to follow the maker's
recommendations on how often to service your car. If your car
lies right on a change-over point, the choice of which
schedule to follow will be yours, unless the specific advice
given here recommends otherwise
-
as we said earlier, most
change points came about for a number of reasons, so it
generally isn't necessary to identify with pinpoint accuracy
which bracket your car belongs to, if it isn't obvious.
32

26B. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the
tensioning nut (A) and
the alternator pivot (B),
on all models. (These
are two typical
layouts.)
Use a length of wood
to pivot the alternator
away from the engine
block but take great
care not to damage the
alternator casing.
Tighten the nuts/bolts
when the tension is correct.
RIBBED BELTS ONLY
If your vehicle is fitted with a ribbed belt, pivot the alternator
as described above and tighten it when you can just twist the
belt by 1/4 turn in the middle of its longest run.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Belt tension should only be adjusted when the engine
is cold.
• After adjustment, run the engine for 15 to 30 seconds,
to allow the belt to bed-in, then check again.
• Experience mechanics claim that belts often go slack
when the engine heats up, producing belt squeal.
• If this happens on your vehicle, adjust the belt again
when the engine is hot. Wear industrial leather gloves
and long-sleeved overalls and take very great care not to
burn yourself on the hot engine or exhaust.
If there is an auxiliary unit, such as an air conditioning pump,
driven by a separate drive belt, examine and adjust it as
described here.
Q Job 27. Check electric fan operation.
Drive the car until it is at normal operating temperature. Park
outdoors and, with the gearbox in neutral (or 'P' in the case of
an automatic) leave the engine running. At just above normal
temperature the electric cooling fan should come on, and
then go off again when the temperature drops. Refer to your
temperature gauge, if fitted. If the fan doesn't behave, check
the thermo-switch on the radiator, along with all connections
and wires in its circuit with the fan motor. See Job 13 and
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
• Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test.
DIAGNOSTIC TEST
28A. Have your FIAT dealer
carry out a diagnostic test,
plugging his tester into the
diagnostic socket tucked away
at the front of the passenger-
side footwell.
EMISSIONS TESTS
Vehicles fitted with the Mono-Jetronic fuel injection system
are not fitted with adjustment screws. The system is self-
regulating. However, specified annual checks carried out with
an exhaust gas analyser will provide essential information on
the condition of the injection/ignition system, the catalytic
converter and the engine itself.
28B. The checks are carried out twice: once with the test
sensor at least 300 mm into the end section of the exhaust
pipe (a). (If the shape of the end section of the exhaust pipe is
such that the sensor cannot be completely introduced, a
special extension pipe must be added ensuring that the joint
with the car's tail-pipe is sealed.); the second after undoing
the cap or nut on the exhaust pipe upstream of the catalytic
converter (b).
The following table shows the test limits for carbon monoxide,
unburned hydrocarbons (in parts per million) and carbon
dioxide:
CO (%) HC (p.p.m.) C02(%)
Upstream of the catalyzer (a) 0,4 -h 1 500/600* >12
Downstream of the catalyzer (b)
=£
0,35 =s 90 >13
* FIAT's figures vary.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The engine must be at its normal
operating temperature and normal tick-over speed.
• if the percentage concentration of CO upstream of the
catalytic converter is not within the limits in the table,
check:
• the Lambda sensor
-
see Job 37.
• air penetration around the Lambda sensor housing.
• faults in the ignition or injection systems. (First try
renewing the spark plugs, distributor cap and HT leads.)
If, at the same time, the concentration of hydrocarbons
is not less than 500/600 parts per million (FIAT'S figures
vary), check:
• the ignition timing (see Job 25).
• the valve clearances (see Job 9).
• the valve gear timing (see Job 12).
• the engine compression. (You will need to remove the
spark plugs, fit a compresson tester to each plug
aperture in turn and crank the engine. See the FACT FILE
on page 51.)

REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS • Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness.
Look for signs of leaks coming from underneath the top part
of
each
rear shock absorber and replace if necessary. Check

the
top and bottom rubber mounting bushes. If any are soft

or
split they must be replaced. Check that the bump stops are
present and correct.
BOUNCE TEST: Bounce-test the shock absorbers as in Job 43.
PART G: BRAKING SYSTEM
SAFETY FIRST!
• Job 49. Check front brakes.

You can
check the thickness of the brake pads by looking

through
the 'window' in the caliper. However, this isn't

recommended
unless you are experienced and know what you

are looking for,
and you can't check the caliper or clean out

accumulated
brake dust.
• Before raising the car, see Chapter 1, Safety First!
•
Also,
be sure to read the section on BRAKES AND
ASBESTOS in Chapter 1, Safety First! for further

important
information.
•
Your car's
brakes are its most important
safety-
related items.
Do NOT attempt any work on the

braking system unless
you are fully competent to do so.
• If you have not been trained in this work, but wish
to
carry
it out, we strongly recommend you have a

garage
or qualified mechanic check your work before

using
the car on the road.
•
Always
start by washing the brakes with a propri-

etary
brand of brake cleaner
-
brake drums removed

where
appropriate
-
and never use compressed air to

clean
off
brake
dust.
•
Always
replace brake pads and/or shoes in complete

'axle' sets
of four
-
never replace them on one wheel
only.
• After fitting new brake shoes or pads, avoid heavy

braking
for the first
150
to 200 miles (250 to 300 km),

except
in
an emergency.
49B. This
drawing
illustrates the
various
components of
the front brake
assembly.
49C. Remove the
bottom caliper bolt,
using an open-ended
spanner to allow the
bolt to turn. ALWAYS
refit with NEW FIAT
caliper mounting bolts

-
they are a special
type.

Therefore,
checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads

involves
the same amount of work as changing them. For that

reason, brake
pad replacement is covered here in detail rather

than in
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.

49A. Start by raising

the
wheel to
be

worked on and
supporting it on
an

axle stand. Remove
the road wheel
-
see

Chapter
1, Safety
First!
Compare the thickness of the two pads
-
there should be no
significant difference. The minimum recommended thickness
of lining material is 1.5 mm, but bearing in mind the amount
of time before the next service, you may wish to replace the
pads before they get to this stage.
You can now check the thickness of the brake disc, which
should not be below the figure given for your model in
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures, at any point.
Remove each wheel
bolt in turn and
ensure that they run
smoothly. Clean the
threads, if necessary.
Refit and check that all
are tightened to the
correct torque
-
see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures
-
using a torque wrench.
49D. Slacken the top
bolt, swivel the caliper
up and the pads come
free, for checking.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
If you remove the
top caliper bolt, DO NOT allow the weight of the caliper
to hang from the flexible hose
-
position it to rest on the
driveshaft, or support it from the road spring using a
length of wire.

Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider
joint - replacement.
• Step 3: Replace the (split) rubber mounting and refit the
weight.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings -
replacement.
Job 11-1
a - distance - 305 mm b - spider joint c - inner gaiter d - inner bearing seal e
-
vibration damper f
-
outer gaiter
g - circlip h - outer u.j. i - hub mounting spline
• Step 1: Note the arrangement of the inner spider joint
and drive-shaft components.
Q Step 2: Remove the
drive-shaft from the car. See
Job 9.
• Step 3: Remove the
circlip and pull or press the
spider joint from the drive-
shaft.
• Step 4: Remove the inner gaiter (illustration Job
11-1,

part c) from the seal bearing (Job
11-1,
partd). Check the
bearing for wear and smooth operation.
Q Step 5: Replace it if necessary by using a standard type
puller to remove it from the shaft, driving the new one into
position with a suitable length of tubing.
Q Step 6: After obtaining a new spider joint, if necessary,
(available as a complete replacement item from your FIAT
dealership), fit the new gaiter and its retainer to the shaft,
followed by the spider joint and circlip. No lubrication is
required prior to refitting the drive-shaft.
• Step 7: E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! The turbo diesel
uses an inboard CV joint similar to the outer one except
that it has a flange for attachment to the transmission.
(See PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A ) Inspect and
replace in the same way as the outer one. The interme-
diate shaft can only be inspected for wear in its bearing
which cannot be removed separately. Therefore, the
whole unit must be changed if defects are found. Q
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper -
replacement.
Refer to Job
11,
Step 1
Q Step 1: A damper is fitted to the right-hand drive-shaft to
prevent vibration in what is a long drive-shaft. The rubber
mounting can disintegrate or become damaged.
Q Step 2: Use an Allen key to separate the two halves of
the weight.
s * You ™yfind *
" U ' necessary to pull out
gently

on the stub axle and at
the

same time tap lightly (so you don't damage the
thread) on the end of the shaft to knock it through.
• Retrieve the stub axle/hub assembly.
Q Step 7: Use a large vice or a press to push the hub out of
the stub axle.
• Step 8: You may have to remove the bearing inner track
from the hub if it comes out with it.
• Step 2: Partly dismantle the front suspension as described
in Job 9. Steps 2 to 6.
• Step 3: Unbolt the brake caliper and support bracket and
tie it clear.
• Step 1: Take note of the components illustrated here.
Also, see PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION, Job
12

where this work is described in more detail.
Q Step 4: Unbolt the brake disc and shield.
• Step 5: Undo the track control arm to stub axle pinch
bolt and
withdraw the
balljoint pin from
the stub axle.
• Step 6: Ease
the stub axle
(illustration Job

13-1,
parts d
and c, combined)
off the drive-
shaft splines (Job

11-1,
parti)
leaving the
inboard end of the
mission.
drive-shaft still attached to the trans-

Job 14. Exhaust system -
replacement.
FACT FILE: LAMBDA SENSOR
• The Lambda sensor is very fragile and
should not be knocked or dropped.
• We recommend that a new one is fitted
only by your FIAT dealer, who can test the
old one to see whether it is working properly.
• No cleaners should be used on the sensor.
Q Step 3: Before refitting, check that the sensor sealing ring
is in good condition, and lubricate the thread of the sensor
with a high-temperature anti-seize compound.
Job 13. Fuel evaporation system.
a - fuel tank b - two way safety valve c - multi purpose valve d
-
active charcoal filter e - petrol vapour cut out valve
f - electronic control unit g - crankcase blow by pick up h - thermostatic air filter vacuum pick up i - fuel filter
• Point 1: A complex control system exists to prevent
evaporative losses of fuel vapour to the atmosphere, and to
control fuel tank pressure under different temperature condi-
tions.
—) Step 1: Exhaust systems are similar in principle
-
and
mostly in appearance
-
between engine types but differ in that
some have a Lambda sensor, and a catalytic converter. This is
a typical system.
• Step 2: If a Lambda sensor is fitted, see Job
12
for
important information regarding removal.
• Step 3: Undo the downpipe to manifold flange bolts.
• Step 4: With a helper to support the weight, release the
exhaust system from its mountings along its length and lower
it to the ground.
O Step 5: Separate the sections if only part of the system is
being replaced. Take care not to damage the catalytic
converter if this is staying.
• Step 6: Refit by starting at the front and fitting the down
pipe using a new gasket, just nipping up the flange bolts.
• Step 7: Continue fitting loosely towards the rear until all
is in place, using new gaskets and sealing compound, as
required, for each of the joints.
• Step 8: Working from the front, align the system, tight-
ening each flange or joint as you go.
• Step 9: Reconnect the Lambda sensor if fitted.
• Point 2: The system comprises a charcoal canister which
absorbs fuel vapour from the fuel tank, mostly while the
vehicle is standing, then re-injects it when the engine is
running. The valves which regulate the system are controlled
by the engine's electronic control unit.
• Point 3: Other than occasional replacement of the
charcoal canister, no system maintenance is needed. However,
a fault with the system can lead to running problems, and
diagnosis and rectification must be left to your FIAT dealer.
Job 15. Tlurbocharger, diesel
engine - replacement.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the
battery earth lead.
• Step 2: Undo
the two clips
(arrowed
-
one at
each end of the
pipe) and remove
the compressed air
supply pipe, from
intercooler to inlet
manifold.
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