1988 FIAT TEMPRA coolant level

Fluid levels (if included) are monitored by LEDs f, o and
p, indicating the levels of the fluid reservoirs.
A red LED illuminates at the position on the check panel
corresponding to a side door or a hatchback/tailgate
that is not properly closed.
SIDE AND TAIL LIGHTS
When the side and tail lights are turned on, the check
panel monitors the light bulbs, fuses and circuits.
• LED g monitors the front side lights.
• LED i monitors the tail lights.
If one of the two fuses protecting the following bulbs
blows, LEDs g, i, and m illuminate.
NUMBER PLATE LIGHTS
• LED m indicates when one or both of the number
plate light bulbs have burnt out.
REAR FOG LIGHTS
• When the fog-guard lights are turned on, LED h
monitors the light bulbs.
• When the fuse blows or a circuit malfunction occurs,
LED h illuminates, but not the panel indicator.
STOP LIGHTS
If one or both stop lights burn out, the fuse blows or a
circuit malfunction occurs, LED I or n illuminates when
braking.
• LED n monitors the left stop light.
• LED I monitors the right stop light.
If both bulbs burn out at the same time or brake pedal
switch malfunction occurs, both LEDs I and n
illuminate.
ENGINE OIL LEVEL
• LED f illuminates when the engine oil level is low (key
at MAR,engine not running).
The oil level monitoring system does not operate when
the engine is running. If the oil level warning LED
illuminates when driving, a circuit sensor malfunction
has occurred.
When starting the car on a hill or within 10 minutes of
switching off the engine the warning light may
illuminate (event will be stored in system memory). Start
the engine again on level ground to ensure the oil level
is sufficient.
COOLANT
A low coolant level is indicated by LED o (key at MAR).
The LED also illuminates when a sensor or circuit
malfunction occurs.
WINDSCREEN AND REAR SCREEN WASH LEVELS
• LED p illuminates (key at MAR) when the level in the
windscreen or rear screen wash reservoirs are low.
• The LED also indicates when a circuit or sensor
malfunction occurs.
• 5. HE ATI IMG AMD VENTILATION
CONTROLS
5A. Air volume control
-
Adjust
the dynamic air flow (fan OFF)
by turning the knob up to I.
Continue turning the knob to
the right to increase the air
flow (i.e. fan ON).
5B. Air temperature control -
The temperature will increase
the further you turn the air
temperature knob to the right
(red zone).
HEATING
HEAT DISTRIBUTION
With the air temperature
knob (56) turned to the
red zone and the air
volume control knob (5A)
turned to the desired fan
speed, turn the air
distribution knob (5C) to:
• 2
-
In sunny, cold weather.
• 3
-
For heating to footwell vents.
• 4
-
Demist the windows.
• Also, turn the air volume control knob (5A) to level II
or III.
VENTILATION
• Turn the air distribution control to 5.
• Turn the air temperature adjustment knob fully anti-
clockwise to the blue zone.
• Turn the air volume control knob to the desired fan
speed.
• Turn the air distribution control to 5.
When the car is moving the volume of the air entering
the passenger compartment can be reduced by turning
the fan knob to the left of 1.
DUAL TEMPERATURE
• Turn the air temperature adjustment knob to an
intermediate position.
• Turn the air distribution control knob to 2.
The temperature decreases the
further you turn the temperature control knob to the
left (blue zone).
Warmer air is delivered to the footwell vents and cooler
air to the dashboard vents.

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

PART G: BRAKING SYSTEM
Job 49. Check front brakes
Job 50. Check rear brakes
Job 51. Check/adjust handbrake
Job 52. Check brake pipes
Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid
SERVICE INTERVALS
C
C
C
C
E
Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings C
Job 57. Check headlight alignment C
Job 58. Check underbody C
Job 59. Check spare tyre B
Job 60. Change pollen filter C
Job 61. Replace airbag gas generator 10 years
PART I: ROAD TEST
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks
Job 55. Check windscreen
Job 62. Road test and specialist check. AFTER EVERY
SERVICE

ENGINE BAY LAYOUTS
These are the engine bay layouts common to almost all Tipo/Tempras. Note that there is no carburettor fitted to fuel-injected
vehicles.
1 - PETROL ENGINES 2 - DIESEL ENGINES
1
-
oil filler cap 7
-
distributor (ignition) 12 - oil filter location
2
-
engine oil dipstick 8
-
coil (ignition) 13
-
fuel pump (mechanical)
3
-
coolant filler cap 9
-
electronic control unit (ECU), 14
-
diesel injection pump
4 - brake fluid reservoir Digiplex 2 15
-
alternator location (behind engine)
5 - battery 10
-
air filter housing
6
-
screenwash reservoir cap 11
-
fuel filter
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
1B. ...and the diesel's
dipstick is in a similar
spot, located at the
front edge of the
timing cover, behind
the right-hand
headlight.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: The
difference between MIN and MAX
marks is approximately one litre of
oil. Q
We recommend that these Jobs are carried out on a weekly
basis, as well as before every long journey. They consist of
checks essential for your safety and for your car's reliability.
• Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level.
Check the engine oil level with the car on level ground. If the
engine has been running, leave it turned off for several
minutes to let the oil drain into the sump.
1A. All petrol engines
have the dipstick at
the front of the block,
towards the timing
belt end...
1C. Lift the dipstick out,
wipe it dry and re-insert it. The oil
level is correct when between the
MAX and MIN marks.

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of

scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,

at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described

in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

—I Job 13. Check cooling system.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The coolant level should be checked
-
and the
cooling system worked on, ONLY WHEN THE
COOLANT IS COLD. If you remove the pressure cap or
bleed screws when the engine is hot, scalding coolant
will spurt out.
• Keep anti-freeze away from children. If it is acciden-
tally swallowed or contacts skin or eyes, rinse
immediately with plenty of water and seek immediate
medical help.
Examine the cooling system hoses, looking for signs of
splitting, chafing and perishing. Squeeze the top and bottom
radiator hoses. Any hard, brittle areas or crackling sounds tell
you that the hoses are decomposing from the inside
-
replace-
ments needed!
SAFETY FIRST!
If
a
clearance is outside the tolerances shown in Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures, the relevant shim will have to be changed.
New
shims
are available from your FIAT dealer. This work is
fully described in Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
10E. You must
always use a new
gasket, especially in
view of the oil level
mentioned earlier.
Clean the housing

and
cover faces and

use
the gasket dry.

11.
Examine the

belt
for wear. If
there
is
any
cracking, or if the
toothed side
10F.H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The cover is 'anti-
crush'
-
you CAN'T
tighten beyond
the lugs pointed
out here
-
so
there's no point
trying! H
0 Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt.
Remove the camshaft belt outer cover. See Chapter 6,

Repairs
and Replacements, PART A: ENGINE.
FACT FILE: VALVE IDENTIFICATION:
T
—
Remember that clearances for inlet and
3™ exhaust valves differ. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures. Counting from the
—^ timing belt end the valves are:
1.1,1.2 8-valve AND DIESEL ENGINES:
EXHAUST -1, 3, 6, 8. INLET
-
2, 4, 5, 7.
1372cc AND 1581cc ENGINES: EXHAUST -1, 4, 5, 8.
INLET
-
2, 3, 6, 7.
1.2 16-valve Hydraulic tappets
-
non-adjustable.
13. If original FIAT hose
clips (a) are fitted, cut them
off (taking great care not to
damage the stub beneath!)
and replace with screw-
tight clips, when fitting a
new hose. Ensure that hose
clips are secure and firm but
not over-tightened.
Check that the wires to the
cooling fan switch (b) are in
good shape. Also, refer to
Job
27

• Job 14. Change engine coolant.
• See SAFETY FIRST! at the start of Job 13.
appears worn, or
any 'teeth' are
missing, replace
the belt straight
away. If the belt

breaks
the valves may collide with the pistons, causing serious
engine damage. Camshaft belt replacement is described in

Chapter 6,
Repairs and Replacements, or you may wish to

have
your FIAT dealer carry out the work for you. If you can
twist the belt through more than 90 degrees, it needs re-
tensioning. Also see Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
m
AUtOKAlIC CtMAU s/
b
14A. Remove the expansion tank filler cap. Move the heater
control (a) to the red (open) position or, on automatic
systems, press the TEMP button (b) on the dash until HI
appears on the display (c).
—i Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt.

It is
ESSENTIAL that you renew the camshaft drive belt at the
recommended interval. See the Service Interval Chart at the

start
of this chapter. Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements
explains how to carry out the work.
14B. Loosen the
worm-drive clip
(arrowed) and
pull off the
bottom radiator
hose.

14C. Also open
the drain plug or
tap (B) at the
centre of the rear
flank of the
engine block on
both petrol and
diesel engines. Drain the coolant into a container. On models
with a separate expansion tank, detach the hose from the
expansion tank and drain the tank.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: From time to time it's a good
idea to flush the cooling system. With the bottom hose
re-connected, disconnect and remove the top hose from
the radiator. Insert the end of a garden hose first into
the hose (packing the gap with a rag) and then the
radiator inlet, flushing the system in both directions until
the water comes out clear. Q
IMPORTANT NOTE: Flush first with the heater control
turned OFF until the engine and radiator are clear, so
that you don't flush sediment into the heater. Then with
the heater turned ON, flush the heater system out.
14D. To prevent air-locks
forming in the cooling
system as it is refilled (all
hoses and the drain plug
reconnected, of course!),
most models have two
air-bleed screws strategi-
cally positioned in the
system. These should be
opened before refilling.
The first (B or C) is
located on the right-
hand side of the radiator
(type dependant on
version)...
PART C: TRANSMISSION
• Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level.
The combined oil level and filler plug is on the forward-facing
side of the gearbox. Check the level with the car on level
ground.
15. From beneath the car, wipe
around the filler plug with a rag
to prevent dirt contamination.
Remove the plug
-
using a 10
mm Allen key
-
and top-up if
necessary, using the specified
Tutela transmission oil (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures), until oil just dribbles
from the filler hole. Refit the
plug.
14E.... and the
second (D)
-

when fitted
-
is
found on the
heater hose near
the top of the
engine. Only
undo the screws
by two or three
turns. Retighten both screws when air-free coolant emerges.
This is the petrol engine...
14F. ...and this
the diesel engine
location.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
It seems that
latest Tipos and
Tempras were
built without some or all bleed screws. Ryauto
recommend removing the highest point of the top hose,
refilling with coolant, while an assistant refits the hose
smartly, losing as little coolant as possible. D
Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of clean water
and fresh Paraflu anti-freeze. Tighten the bleed screws (or
hose) when coolant, and not air, comes out steadily. Run the
engine for a few minutes and bleed again.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is highly likely that more air will be
dislodged when you first use the car. Keep your eye on
the coolant level (See Job 2)
-
perhaps carrying some
50/50 diluted coolant with you for the first few journeys.
• Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil.
16. The combined
gearbox and final
drive oil should be
drained at the time
shown in the
Service Interval
Chart. Do so only
after the car has
been used and the
gearbox oil is warm, so that it flows well. Remove the drain
plug (on the end-face of the gearbox, accessed from beneath
the car
-
not much room to get a spanner in!) and drain the
oil into a container. (See page 8 on oil disposal.) Leave for 10
minutes to drain completely, and refill with the correct grade
of Tutela transmission oil through the level/filler plug, as
described in Job 15.

G Step 43: Stop the engine and allow it to cool, check the

oil
and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
G Step 44: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend

an oil
and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your new engine.
Job 7. Petrol engine.
Valve clearances - adjustment.
0 INSIDE INFORMATION! Adjustment should always be
made with the engine cold. B
G Step 1: Remove the camshaft cover and the spark plugs.
Jack up a front wheel and engage top gear. Turning the wheel
will rotate the engine and therefore the camshaft. If the
engine
is
out of the car, use a socket and long lever on the
crankshaft pulley nut. If the cylinder head is detached, turn

the
camshaft belt sprocket, by hand.
G Step 2: The inlet and exhaust valves use different clear-

ances
which are checked when each cam lobe is pointing
directly away from its follower. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
G Step 3: The order in which the valves are fitted in the
cylinder head is:
Inlet: 2-3-6-7
Exhaust: 1-4-5-8

from
the timing cover end.
G Step 4: Select a feeler blade which is about the thickness

of the
correct valve clearance and insert it between the heel of

the cam
and the cam follower shim when the cam lobe is
uppermost. If necessary, select different thicknesses of feeler
blade until a small amount of drag can be felt as the blade is
pushed in and out. Record the total blade thickness. This is the
valve clearance for this valve.
G Step 5: Rotate the camshaft and repeat this operation on

each
of the remaining seven valves, noting their respective
clearances. Those which have clearances within limits
obviously don't need any further attention.
Q Step 6: The remaining valves will now need to have their
shims (arrowed) changed for thicker or thinner ones, bringing
their clearances to within the specifications shown in Chapter
3, Facts and Figures
Ll Step 7: A special tool is needed to depress the cam
follower and allow extraction of the shim. This is available
from your FIAT dealer, or you will have to make a lever with a
fork that locates nicely on the rim of a cam follower allowing
removal of the shim by prising it from the follower.
• Step 8: The
thickness of a shim
is engraved on it in
mm (arrowed). If
this is worn away,
you will have to
measure the
thickness with a
metric micrometer
-

or have your FIAT
dealer do it for you.
Your FIAT dealer can
also supply any new
thickness of shim
you may require.
• Step 9: Where
a clearance is too
small with the thinnest shim in position, the valves should be
removed and the stem ground just sufficiently to make the
correction. Your FIAT dealer can do this, keeping the end
square and retaining a smooth finish.
fjfefe^ | Job 7-10
Q Step 10: Be sure to use a new gasket when the cover is
replaced.