Page 49 of 962

Condition
Excessive gear noise
Hard shifting
2-6. DIFFERENTIALS
Possible cause
1. Not enough oil in transmission
2. Defective synchronizer
3. Gears rattling in thrust direction
4. Broken or worn bearings
5. Damaged or worn gears
1. Clutch pedal play too large, resulting in a
“dragging clutch”
2. Worn clutch disc facings
3. Clutch disc facings dirty with oil.
4. Distorted or unevenly worn shift fork shaft
5. Broken locating balls
6. Worn synchornizer sleeve or ring
7. Worn synchronizer hub
Condition
Gear noise
Bearing noise
Possible cause
1. Maladjusted backlash between drive pinion
and ring gear
2. Damaged gear teeth or improper mesh of
drive pinion and ring gear
3. Improper tooth contact in the mesh between
drive pinion and ring gear
4. Insufficient or wrong kind of gear oil
5. Ring gear wobbling when turning, or ring
gear securing bolts loose
6. Broken or otherwise damaged teeth of side
gears or differential pinion gears
1. (Constant noise) Insufficient or wrong kind
of gear oil
2. (Constant noise) Damaged or worn bearings
or borne parts
3. (Noise during coasting) Damaged bearings
of rear drive pinion
4. (Noise during turning) Broken bearings
on axle shafts
Correction
Replenish
Replace
Replace
Replace
Replace
Adjust as prescribed
Replace.
Replace.
Replace
Replace
Replace
Replace
Correction
Adjust as prescribed
Replace or adjust
Adjust as prescribed
Replenish or replace
Replace, or retighten
Replace
Replenish or change
Replace.
Replace
Replace
2-11
Page 50 of 962

2-7. PROPELLER SHAFTS
IConditionIPossible causeICorrection
Vibration and noise1. Broken or worn bearings of universal joint
spider
2. Distorted propeller shaft
3. Unbalanced propeller shaft
4. Loose propeller shaft
Replace
Replace
Replace
Retighten
Noise occurring at
standing start or
during coasting
1. Worn or damaged universal joint
2. Worn propeller shaft splines, due to lack
of lubrication
3. Loose propeller shaft
4. Loose flanged yoke of universal joint
Replace
Replace
Retighten
Retighten
2-8. BRAKES
Condition
Not enough braking
force
Possible causeCorrection
1. Brake oil leakage from brake linesLocate leak point and repair
2. Brake disc or pads stained with oilClean or replace
3. Overheated brakesDetermine cause and repair
4. Poor contact of shoes on brakeRepair for proper contact
drum
5. Brake shoes linings stained with
oil or wet with water
Replace
6. Badly worn brake shoe liningsReplace
7. Defective wheel cylindersRepair or replace
8. Malfunctioning caliper assemblyRepair or replace
Brake Pull (Brakes not1. Shoe linings wet with water orReplace
working in unison)stained with oil in some brakes
2. Drum-to-shoe clearance out ofCheck for inoperative auto adjusting
adjustment in some brakes (Mal-mechanism
functioning auto adjusting
mechanism)
3. Drum out of round in some
brakes
Replace
4. Wheel tires inflated unequally
5. Malfunctioning wheel cylinders
6. Disturbed front end aiignment
7. Unmatched tires on same axle
8. Restricted brake tubes or hoses
9. Malfunctioning caliper assembly
10. Loose suspension parts
11. Loose calipers
Inflate equally
Repair or replace
Adjust as prescribed
Use tires with approximately the same
amount of tread on the same axle
Check for soft hoses and damaged
lines. Replace with new hoses and net
double-walled steel brake tubing.
Check for stuck or sluggish pistons an
proper lubrication of caliper slide bus
Caliper should slide.
Check all suspension mountings
Check and torque bolts to specifica-
tions
2-12
Page 51 of 962

Condition
Excessive pedal travel
(Pedal stroke too
large)
Possible cause
1. Partial brake system failure
2. Insufficient fluid in master
cylinder reservoirs
Correction
Check diagonal brake systems and
repair as necessary
Fill reservoirs with approved brake
fluid. Check for leaks and air in
brake systems. Check warning light.
Bleed system if necessary.
3. Air in system (Pedal soft/spongy)Bleed system
4. Rear brake system not adjustedAdjust rear brakes (Repair auto
(malfunctioning auto adjustingadjusting mechanism)
mechanism)
5. Bent brake shoesReplace brake shoes
6. Worn rear brake shoesReplace brake shoes.
Dragging brakes (A
very light drag is pre-
sent in all disc brakes
immediately after
pedal is released)
1. Master cylinder pistons not
returning correctly
2. Clogged return port in master
cylinder
3. Restricted brake tubes or hoses
4. Incorrect parking brake
adjustment
5. Weakened or broken return
springs in the brake
Repair master cylinder
Clean
Check for soft hoses or damaged tubes
and replace with new hoses and/or
new double-walled steel brake tubing
Check and adjust to correct specifica-
tions
Replace
6. Sluggish parking-brake cables or
linkage
Repair or replace
7. Wheel cylinder or caliper piston
sticking
Repair as necessary
Pedal pulsation1. Damaged or loose wheel bearingsReplace wheel bearings
(Pedal pulsates when2. Excessive disc lateral runout Check per instructions. If not within
depressed for braking)specifications, replace or machine the
disc.
3. Parallelism not within specifica-Check per instructions. If not within
tionsspecifications, replace or machine the
disc.
4. Rear drums out of roundCheck runout.
Braking noise1. Glazed shoe linings, or foreignRepair or replace shoe lining
matters stuck to linings
2. Worn or distorted shoe liningsReplace shoe lining (or pad)
3. Loose front wheel bearingsReplace wheel bearings
4. Distorted backing plates or looseReplace or retighten securing bolts
mounting bolts
2-13
Page 52 of 962

2-9. SUSPENSION, STEERING SYSTEM AND TIRES
Condition
Hard steering
Possible causeCorrection
1. Wheel tires not adequately inflatedAdjust the pressure
2. Bind in tie rod end ball studReplace
3. Linkage connections tending to seizeRepair or replace
4. Steering gearbox out of adjustmentAdjust as prescribed
5. Unevenly worn steering shaft bushReplace
6. Disturbed front wheel alignmentAdjust as prescribed
Wobbly steering wheel1. Wheel tires inflated unequallyAdjust tire pressure
(Shimmy, shake or2. Wobbly wheelsRepair or replace
vibration)3. Large difference in tire diameter betweenReplace._
right and left wheels
4. Loose hub nutsRetighten
5. Damaged or worn wheel bearingsReplace
6. Worn or loose tie rod endsReplace or retighten
7. Steering gearbox out of adjustmentAdjust as prescribed
8. Steering gearbox mounted looseRetighten
9. Worn steering knuckle oil sealReplace
10. Tire or wheel out of balanceBalance wheel or replace tire
and/or wheel
11. Blister or bump on tireReplace tire
12. Disturbed front wheel alignmentCheck front wheel alignment
Steering wheel
pulling to one
side (car pulls)
1. Unevenly worn wheel tires
2. Brake dragging in one road wheel
3. Wheel tires unequally inflated
4. Worn or distorted link rods
5. Disturbed front wheel alignment
6. Loose, bent or broken front or rear
suspension parts
Replace
Repair
Adjust tire pressure
Replace
Adjust as prescribed
Tighten or replace suspension
parts
Shocks coming to1. Tire inflating pressure too highReduce to the specification
steering wheel2. Poor shock absorber performanceReplace
(or wheel tramp)3. Differences in tire diameter among fourAdjust
road wheels
4. Worn steering linkage connectionsReplace
5. Worn or broken front wheel bearingsReplace
6. Loose front wheelRetighten
7. Steering wheel loose in placeRetighten the nut
8. Blister or bump on tireReplace tire
Rapid wear or uneven1. Wheel tires imporperly inflatedAdjust tire pressure
wear of wheel tires2. Differences in diameter among four tiresAdjust or replace
(Abnormal or excessive3. Worn or loose road wheel bearingsReplace
tire wear)4. Wobbly wheel tiresRepair or replace
2-14
Page 53 of 962

ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Rapid wear or uneven5. Wheel tires improperly “rotated“ toAdjust
wear of wheel tiresresult in unbalance
(Abnormal or excessive6. Disturbed front wheel alignmentAdjust as prescribed
tire wear)7. Hard drivingReplace tire
Steering noise1. Loose bolts and nuts
2. Loose leaf spring seats
3. Broken or otherwise damaged wheel
bearings
4. Worn or sticky tie rod ends
5. Linkage joints needling grease
Retighten
Retighten
Replace
Replace
Lubricate or replace
Too much play in
steering
1. Worn wheel bearings .Replace wheel bearing
2. Steering gear box attachments looseTighten or repair
3. Steering gear box adjustmentsCheck and adjust
4. Worn steering shaft jointsReplace joint
5. Worn tie rod ends or drug rod ball jointsReplace tie rod end or tie rod
Poor returnability1. Bind in tie rod end ball studs
2. Bind in steering column
3. Lack of lubricant steering gear box
4. Disturbed front end alignment
5. Steering gear box adjustment
6. Tires not adequatley inflated
Replace tie rod end
Repair or replace
Check, lubricate or replace
Check and adjust front end
alignment
Check and adjust gear box
torque
Adjust pressure
Abnormal noise,
front end
1. Worn, sticky or loose tie rod ends, drug
rod ball joints or axle shaft joints
2. Damaged shock absorbers or mountings
3. Loose stabilizer bar
4. Loose wheel nuts
5. Loose suspension bolts or nuts
6. Broken or otherwise damaged wheel
bearings
7. Broken suspension springs
Replace tie rod ends, drug
rod or axle shaft joints
Replace or repair
Tighten bolts or replace bushe!
Tighten
Tighten suspension bolts or
nuts
Replace
Replace
Wander or poor
steering stability
1. Mismatched or uneven tires
2. Loose tie rod ends or drug rod
3. Faulty shock absorber or mounting
Replace tire or inflate tires to
proper pressure
Replace tie rod end or drug ro(
Replace absorber or repair
mounting
2-15
Page 54 of 962

Condition
Wander or poor
steering stability
Low or uneven trim
height
Ride too soft
Suspension bottoms
Body leans or sways
in corners
Possible cause
4. Loose stabilizer bar
5. Broken or sagging springs
6. Steering gear box adjustment
7. Front wheel alignment
1. Broken or sagging springs
2. Overloaded
3. Incorrect springs
1. Faulty shock absorbers
1. Overloaded
2. Faulty shock absorbers
3. Incorrect, broken or sagging springs
1. Loose stabilizer bar
2. Faulty shock absorbers or mounting
3. Broken or sagging springs
4. Overloaded
Correction
Tighten or replace stabilizer
bar or bushs
Replace spring
Check or adjust steering gear
box torque
Check front wheel alignment
Replace
Check loading
Replace
Replace
Checking loading.
Replace
Replace
Tighten stabilizer bar bolts or
replace bushes
Replace shock absorbers or
tighten mounting
Replace
Check loading
STARTING MOTOR
Condition
Starter runs but
pinion will not mesh
into ring gear.
Starter will not run
at all, or runs but
runs too slow to
crank with full
force.
Possible cause
1. Worn pinion of starter clutch.
2. Defective splines resulting in sticky
pinion plunging motion.
3. Worn bush.
4. Wrong pinion plunging position.
5. Worn teeth of ring gear.
Battery trouble
1, Poor contact in battery terminal
connection
2. Loose ground cable connection
3. Battery run down
4. Battery voltage too low due to battery
deterioration
Correction
Replace.
Repair or replace.
Replace.
Adjust
Replace.
Repair or retighten
Retighten
Recharge
Replace
Ignition switch trouble
1. Poor contacting actionReplace
2. Lead wire socket loose in placeRetighten
3. Opne-circuit between ignition switch andRepair
magnet switch
2-10.
2-16
Page 55 of 962

Condition
Starter will not run
at all, or runs but
runs too slow to
crank with full
force
Starter does not
stop running.
2-11. ALTERNATOR
Condition
Battery quickly
becomes over-
discharged.
Charge light does not
light with ignition ON
and engine off
Alternator noise
Possible cause
Magnet switch trouble
1. Lead wire socket loose in place
2. Burnt contact plate, or poor contacting
action
3. Open-circuit in pull-in coil
4. Open-circuit in holding coil
Starter proper trouble
1. Brushes seating poorly or worn down
2. Burnt commutator
3. Open-circuit in armature winding
4. Worn-down starter.
1. Fused contact points of magnet-switch
contact plate
2. Short-circuit between turns of magnet-
switch coil (layer short-circuit)
3. Failure of returning action in ignition
switch
Possible cause
1. Loose or broken “V” belt
2. Battery cables loose, corroded or worn
3. Low level of battery electrolyte
4. Defective battery cell plates
5. Insufficient contact in battery terminal
connection.
6. Excessive electrical load
7. IC regulator or alternator faulty
8. Defective idle up system
1. Fuse blown
2. Light burned out
3. Loose wiring connection
4. IC regulator faulty
1. Worn, loose or otherwise defective bearings
Correction
Retighten
Replace, or repair
Replace
Replace
Repair or replace
Repair or replace
Replace
Replace
Repair or replace
Replace
Replace
Correction
Adjust or replace
Repair or replcae
Replace
Replace the battery
Clean and retighten
Check charging system
Replace
Repair or replace
Check fuse
Replace light
Tighten loose connection!
Replace
i
Replace
2-17
Page 56 of 962

2-12. WIPER MOTOR
Condition
Wiper will not run
Wiper will not stop
running
Wiper stops at
wrong position
Poor wiping action
Possible causeCorrection
1. Fuse set loose or blown offTighten or replace
2. Incomplete metal-to-metal contact in con-
nector.
Repair
3. Worn or floating brushesReplace or repair
4. Dirty or burnt commutatorRepair or replace
5. Short-circuited or fused field coilReplace
6. Loose terminal connection on wiper switchRepair
1. Defective wiper switchRepair or replace
.
1. Improper wiper arm settingRepair
2. Cover plate incorrectly positioned in plcaeRepair
1. Insufficient pressure of wiper armReplace
2. Deteriorated or hardened bladeReplace
3. Blade improperly setRepair or replace
4. Windshield dirty with oilClean
2-13. FUEL METER
Condition
Faulty meter
indication
No indication
Possible cause
1. Incomplete metal-to-metal contact in
terminal connections
2. Defective receiver gauge due to burnt point
or deformed bimetal element
3. Erratic float movement
4. Defective grounding (for float and gauge)
1. Open-circuit
2. Open-circuited heat wire
3. Burnt point
4. Deformed bimetal element
5. Open-circuited resistor
Correction
Retighten
Replace
Repair or replace
Repair
Repair
Replace
Replace
Replace
Replace
2-18