1980 SKODA 120 LS Workshop Manual

I
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.t
the
ploces
from which you
hove removed the
sticking dirt ogoin, ond wipe
the entire body-
work diy, including chromium'ploted ports,
with
chomois leother. Wosh ond
wlpe dry the vor'
nished surfoces with uniform strokes in one
direction, i. e.
not
by circulor movements.
After hoving wiped oll vornished ports
of the
bodywork dry, polish
them with o soft (flonnel)
duster. Do not use polish
of ony kind.
lf the bodywork is so dirty thot it connot be
woshed cleon with woter, use cor
shompoo.
lf it is necessory to refreshen the gloss
of the
finish, use o cor polish
occording to instructions
of its monufocturer. To wosh the underbody,
use o hose ond
running woter, worm or cold; never use petrol,
kerosene, diesel oil, etc.
Remove greose
spots with o cloth, dry or
sooked in petrol
if necessory. To
remove tor, dip
the cloth in kerosene or o speciol
tor removing
preporotion, ond rub the spots. Then
immediotely
wosh owoy oll troces of
kerosene or the tor
removing solution, ond repolish the spots with
o cor polish.
TOUCHING.UP VARNISH
Preporotion:
Removol of Polishes etc.
When touching up o repoired bodywork (dom-
oged surfoce
finish), it is
importont to olso
cleon the surrounding vornish
to prevent
the
touching-up point
from floking off loter on in
ploces of overlopping.
Remove cor polishes
with o shompoo. Silicone
oil, contoined in some bronds
of polishes
ond
preventing the odhesion of the touching-up
point, con be woshed owoy only with o speciol
preporotion. !n Czechoslovokio, this is
for
exomple VENEDIN. Rub with this preporotion
olso vornished oreos which will be roughened
by grinding
where the bore ploces
poss
into
ground ond cemented oreos.
Removol of Rust
Remove rust mechonicolly by grinding
or
rubbing with emery poper
ond woshing with
c derusting ogent (for
exomple SK 2,
which is
bosicolly o 300/s phosphoric
ocid).
Procedure: f irst cleon the rusty spot with
emery poper
No.80 ond 100
or using o grinder.
Then rub the spot with o 15 0/6
solution of
phosphoric ocid (SK 2 deruSter)
heoted up to
40oC. When using o cold solution,
its concen-
trotion must be obout 300/e (undiluted
SK 2
deruster). Work in rubber gloves.
After hoving removed the rust, wosh
the spot
twice. First
with tepid or cold woter,
soft or softened
by odding 2
to 2.501s of sodo,
then
with o solution of chromium trioxide (1 gr.
to
1 litre of soft
woter) heoted
up
to 80oC (thls
is
the so-colled possivoting
rinse). Now let the
spot dry.
Degreosing Degreose the spot to be touched up by rub-
bing it down with trichloroethylene or technicol
petrol.
1. Touching-up with low-boking points -
the most perfect procedure
o) Cleon the touched-up spot, derust
ond
degreose it (see
the previous
porogrophs
on
preporotion)
b) Sproy over with priming point
c) Let the priming point
dry ot 80oC to 110oC
for o period
of 50
or 15 minutes (50 minutes
ot 85oC, 15
minutes ot 110oC)
d) Coot over with synthetic cement or poly-
ester cement
e) Let the cement dry ot 85oC or 110oC for
o period
of 50 or 15 minutes respectively;
when using polyester
cement, the drying
period con be shortened -
this cement dries
of normol temperoture
f ) Grind under
woter with emery poper
No.280
to320till the spot is perfectly
flot ond even,
ond let it dry
g) Sproy with top-coot vornish
h) Let it dry ot 80oC to 110oC for
o period
of
15 or 50 minutes respectively; ofter boking,
the vornish hos
o high gloss
ond it is not
necessory to polish
it
i) Use o polish
to remove
ony visible troces of
tronsition between the originol ond the
new
vornish.
2. Touching-up with
nitro-combinotion vornish
o) Cleon, grind,
derust, ond degreose the spot
to be touched up
b) Apply priming
point with o brush or o
sproy-gun
c) Level up, if
necessory, with on oil-bose
cement (once
or twice)
d) Let
it dry lor 24 hours ond then grind
with
emery poper
No.220
e) Sproy
the entire touched-up oreo with
sproying cement ond let it dry for 24 hours
f) Grind with
emery poper
No. 280 ond 320
under woter till the oreo is perfectly
smooth
ond flot, ond let it dry
g) Sproy the touched-up spot with o vornish
prepored by mixing low-boking
,vornish
(Toolol ond touching-up vornish (300/e);
use
exclusively o
nitro-thinner for diluting the
vornish
210

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l-14.12
has two anchoring points.
The seat belts have
anchoring bolts
on the size 7/16-20 UNF-2A'
In f ront, the anchoring threads
are easily
accessible being provided
on the door posts
(remove only one of the pair
of pins
covering the
thread), on sills
below the posts,
and on
the sides
of the'floor tunnel
behind the front seats'
Anchoring points
for rear seat belts are shown
in the illustation. For the seat
belt of the person
sitting in the
middle, the threads are under the
seat cushions and rather removed from each other
(A3). For the seat belts of persons
occupying the
butside places
the threads are also under the
cushions, nearer to the centre (A2),
in the body
sides close to the cusions (82),
and in window
pillars (C2). These latter threads can be found by
touch in the point
of intersection of the plane
passing about 165 mm
above the
rear window
parcel tray and in parallel
with the door frame at a
distance of about 85 mm. To gain
access to
them,
it is necessary to cut through the trimming.
We must stress that for the fitting of points A2
and A3, the bolts should not protrude
beyond the Fig.M.11l2
-
Lower Anchoring Points
14-12 FACIA
l-he focio cctl be rentoved otter unsct-ewlllg
the nuts of its peripherol bolts ond
ofter lifting
owoy the instrument ponel -
see Chopter '13'15'
It is olso necessory to
remove the steering
wheel with the shroud of
the steering wheel
shoft (see
Chopters 7.7
ond
7.8), ond the heoter
control ponel
(see ChoPter 11.0).
The bolts holding down the focio
ore occess-
ible ofter removin! the
instrument ponel
ond
the heoter control ponel, ond
ofter swinging. out
the glove
box. To swing
out the glove
box,
open its lid ond loosen tlre screws of its
stops'
Fig. 14.1111 -
Upper Anchoring Point
captive not more
than 1lz mm or there is every
likelihood of damaging the
fuel tank.
The depth of the nut from the mounting face
is
15 mm.
Child seat fixing
Follow the seat belt manufacturers instructions
as to the spacing of the belt straps.
The straps can be mounted to the rear parcel
shelf if the mounting holes are drilled 30 mm from
the front engine bulkhead. The
sound deadening
trim in the engine compartment
will need to be
lowered to fit the spreading plate
and nut.
Be careful when drilling the shelf, not to
scratch the rear screen. Fig.
14.1211 -
Focio Mounting Points
14.13 WATER LEAKS
To determine the
source of
a water leak
proceed in a progressive
manner.
1. Determine area
water finally rests'
2. lf possible follow
water trace to
source'
3. lf hot, remove carpets and clutter'
4. Dry car inside
and out'
5. Us'e a sprinkler rather
than
a hose jet'
6. Start on the
underside of
the vehicle and
work up. Do not
do any adjustments or
sealing until after the
first test.
7. When"you have
finished adjustments and
sealing RE
TEST.
212

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14.13,2
WATER LEAKS
INTO
THE
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT
1. INGRESS OF
WATER FROM
THE FRESH
AIR BOX
EXISTING GROMMET USE OF PT NO 113-793801
Fig. 14.13/6
The dorne should stand up in the airbox and
should be partially
filled from inside with Dum
Dum.
The grommet
should be sealed to the body
using clear mastic.
di Jack socket. Seal the terminal base using Dum
Dum. The base sockets should be sealed with
clear mastic.
d) Water entering through Centre of heater. The
cover plate
over heater, motor fan if it is not
fully butted against the
shuttle (ie.
a gap)
seal
with
e) Body joints
inside airboxto innerwing. Ensure
sealant covers all joints
up to the under side of
the scuttle panel. 2. WINDSCREENS
Windscreen sealing
is in fact
sealing two joints
and they should be treated
in drfferent ways and
as separate joints.
1. Glass to Gasket
2. Gasket to body.
{afFit expanding cable here
(b)
Fis. 14/13.5
a) Box drain tubes (One
either side of car) Pt No.
1 13-790970 if
perished
replace, sealing
rubber to metal with clear mastic.
b) Heater bleed
tube/speedometer cable
grommets. lt is suggested that
the original
grommets are replaced with domed grommet
Pt No.113-793801.
":I
I
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i '^'i-T
/c^sKEr
Fig. 14.13/8
1. The joint
between the screen
and the rubber
is sometimes factory
sealed with a sealant varnish
which hardens and when disturbed
shatters; and
this in turn allows passages
forwaterfrom outside
to the interior. Application of glass
mastic sealer
will drive out the water and seal the joint'
lf,
however, this is not
achieved it
will be necessary
to remove the rubber and clean the seal faces and
the glass
in order to
ensure that the joint
can be
made. The expander of
the 105/1 20 range should be
fitted to the rubber after fitting the glass
and
rubber to the body using special tool MP8-161.
Carefully fit
the rubber to the glass,
stretchi ng it
evenly around the
whole glass
and not stretched
over the last side/corner to be
fitted.
After f itting the
screen/rubber assembly,
ensure that the glass
is centralised in the
apertu re. The expander can now
be fitted
using MP8-
161 expander fitting tool.
2.The second joint
is between the rubber
and
the body. We must stress that there are
two areas
of this joint,
one (a)
is a water drain channel and
the second (b)
serves two duties
of holding the
glass in the aperture and stopping the
ingress of
water into the passenger
compartments.
The water drain channel must not be filled with
any sealant and the drain holes at the base of the
aperture should be free of obstruction.
The water sealing properties
of the joint
can be
re-inforced by the application of mastic sealant
into the joint
(b) shown in the diagram.
Test for water leaks
Spray water onto and around screen being
tested, lingering a long time in
all positions, to
ascertain the point
of entry. Determine it
is
coming from the glass
rubber seal or the rubber
body seal then correct the leakage.
Fig. 14.13/7
214

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