1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE wheel bolt torque

BRAKES 9-29
8. Reinstall the sensor harness with its clamps
and bolts.
9. Reconnect the speed sensor connector.
IO. Install the fender splash shield.
11. Reinstall the tire and wheel, safely lower the
vehicle, and reconnect the negative battery cable. To install: 7. Install the speed sensor and torque to 9 ft.
Ibs. (12 Nm).
8. Install the clips holding the sensor harness.
9. Connect the speed sensor connector.
IO. Connect the negative battery cable.
REAR REAR
) See Figure 131 and 132
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at
least 90 seconds before performing any work.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove
the necessary tire and wheel assembly.
3. Detach the ABS speed sensor connector.
4. Remove the sensor harness clamp bolts and
clamps.
I) See Figure 133
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the ABS speed sensor mounting bolt
and the sensor.
Work must be started after 90 seconds from
the time the ignition switch is turned to the
LOCK position and the negative battery cable
is disconnected.
To install:
6. Install the ABS speed sensor with its mounting
bolt.
*The clearance between the wheel speed
sensor and the rotor’s toothed surface is not
adjustable, but measure the distance be-
tween the sensor installation surface and the
rotor’s toothed surface. Standard value is:
1.11-l .I2 in. (28.2-28.4mm). If not within
specifications, replace the speed sensor or
the toothed rotor.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Detach the speed sensor connector.
4. Remove the clips holding the sensor harness.
5. On AWD models, remove the cable band.
6. Remove the mounting bolt and the speed
sensor with the O-ring.
To install: 7. Install the speed sensor with the O-ring and
torque to 9 ft. Ibs. (12 Nm).
8. Install the clips holding the sensor harness.
9. Install the cable band.
10. Install the sensor wire harness and connect
the connector.
7. Reinstall the sensor harness with its clamps
and bolts.
8. Reconnect the speed sensor connector.
9. Reinstall the tire and wheel, safely lower the
vehicle, and reconnect the negative battery cable.
Diamante
FRONT
* See Figure 133
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Work must be started after 90 seconds from
the time the ignition switch is turned to the
LOCK position and the negative battery cable
is disconnected.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the splash shield.
4. Detach the speed sensor connector.
5. Remove the clips holding the sensor harness.
6. Remove the speed sensor.
1 Front toothed rotor
2 Ckp
3 Front speed sensor
4 Front speed aenmr bracket t ;5’ toothed rotor ‘I Rear speed SB"SO,
93159016
Fig. 133 Wheel speed sensors-Diamante
11. Connect the negative battery cable.
The G-sensors are used only on the AWD vehi-
cles. The rear is mounted in the trunk under the floor
mat while the front sensor is under the console as-
sembly. The sensor transmits acceleration and decel-
eration information to the anti-lock control unit. This
data is used in conjunction with individual wheel
speed and engine data, allowing the controller to de-
termine the approximate road friction. This friction
factor is then used to compute the proper control of
the solenoid valves.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
# See Figure 134
1. For the front sensor, remove the console as-
sembly.
-lkol*)
1 wimp--vx
2 Gasnan I‘m”0
3. Gmwor LmcM
Bmar burl
: wwzh&T&m~mm-
6 G.smsol Ired Th, - ape.24 m-5 un Nt- vmsa*.
7 c-.elwnbRcta
93159909 Fig. 134 Front and rear G-sensor mount-
ing-l 990-93 AWD Galant
2. For the rear sensor, remove the trunk floor
mat.
3. Disconnect the G-sensor wiring harness.
4. Remove the cover from the rear sensor. Re-
move the sensor from the bracket. Remove the
bracket if desired.
To install: 5. Reinstall the bracket if it was removed.
6. Install the G-sensor and connect the wiring
harness. Tighten the retaining bolts to 8 ft. Ibs. (11
Nm).
7. Install the cover on the rear G-sensor.
8, Install the console and/or the trunk floor mat or
carpet.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Front
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor and discon-
nect sufficient harness clips to allow the sensor and
wiring to be moved out of the work area.
*The speed sensor has a pole piece project-
ing from it. This exposed tip must be pro-
tected from impact or scratches. Do not al-
low the pole piece to contact the toothed
wheel during removal or installation.
4. Remove the front hub and knuckle assembly.
5. Remove the hub from the knuckle.
6. Support the hub in a vise with protected jaws.
7. Remove the retaining bolts from the toothed
wheel and remove the toothed wheel.
To install: 8. Fit the new toothed wheel onto the hub and
tighten the retaining bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).
9. Assemble the hub to the knuckle
IO. Install the hub and knuckle assembly to the
vehicle.
11. Install the wheel speed sensor.
12. Install the wheel and tire.
13. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Rear
EXCEPT AWD GALANT
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor and discon-
nect sufficient harness clips to allow the sensor and
wiring to be moved out of the work area.
*The speed sensor has a pole piece project-
ing from it. This exposed tip must be pro-
tected from impact or scratches. Do not al-
low the pole piece to contact the toothed
wheel during removal or installation.
4. Remove the hub assembly.
5. Support the hub in a vise with protected jaws.
6. Remove the retaining bolts from the toothed
wheel and remove the toothed wheel.
To install: 7. Fit the new toothed wheel onto the hub and
tighten the retaining bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).
8. Install the hub assembly to the vehicle. The
center hub nut is not reusable. The new nut must be

11-8 TROUBLESHOOTING
Ignition systems may be controlled by, or linked to, the engine fuel management sys-
tem. Similar to the fuel injection system, these ignition systems rely on electronic sen-
sors for information to determine the optimum ignition timing for a given engine speed
and load. Some ignition systems no longer allow the ignition timing to be adjusted.
Feedback from low voltage electrical sensors provide information to the control unit to
determine the amount of ignition advance. On these systems, if a failure occurs the failed
component must be replaced. Before replacing suspected failed electrical components,
carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make
sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If
necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of clean-
ing agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should be avoided, as they
could leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
1. Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel being used. Depending on the type of driving or
driving conditions, it may be necessary to use a higher octane fuel.
b. Verify the ignition system settings and operation. Improperly adjusted ignition timing
or a failed component, such as a knock sensor, may cause the ignition timing to ad-
vance excessively or prematurely. Check the ignition system operation and adjust, or
replace components as needed.
c. Check the spark plug gap, heat range and condition. If the vehicle is operated in se-
vere operating conditions or at continuous high speeds, use a colder heat range spark
plug. Adjust the spark plug gap to the manufacturer’s recommended specification and
replace worn or damaged spark plugs.
2. Sfarter motor grinds when used
a. Examine the starter pinion gear and the engine ring gear for damage, and replace dam-
aged parts.
b. Check the starter mounting bolts and housing. If the housing is cracked or damaged
replace the starter motor and check the mounting bolts for tightness.
3. Engine makes a screeching noise
a. Check the accessory drive belts for looseness and adjust as necessary.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for seizing or excessive bearing noises and
replace if loose, binding, or excessively noisy.
c. Check for a seizing water pump. The pump may not be leaking; however, the bearing
may be faulty or the impeller loose and jammed. Replace the water pump.
4. Engine makes a growling noise
a. Check for a loose or failing water pump. Replace the pump and engine coolant.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for excessive bearing noises and replace if
loose or excessively noisy.
5. Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise
a. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low or dirty engine oil and top off
or replace the engine oil and filter.
b. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for collapsed lifters and replace failed
components.
c. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low oil pressure caused by a re-
stricted oil filter, worn engine oil pump, or oil pressure relief valve.
d. On vehicles with manually adjusted valves, check for excessive valve clearance or
worn valve train parts. Adjust the valves to specification or replace worn and defective
parts.
e. Check for a loose or improperly tensioned timing belt or timing chain and adjust or re-
place parts as necessary.
f. Check for a bent or sticking exhaust or intake valve. Remove the engine cylinder head
to access and replace.
6. Engine makes a heavy knocking noise
a. Check for a loose crankshaft pulley or flywheel; replace and torque the mounting
bolt(s) to specification.
b. Check for a bent connecting rod caused by a hydro-lock condition. Engine disassem-
bly is necessary to inspect for damaged and needed replacement parts.
c. Check for excessive engine rod bearing wear or damage. This condition is also asso-
ciated with low engine oil pressure and will require engine disassembly to inspect for
damaged and needed replacement parts,
7. Vehicle has a fuel odor when driven ’ a. Check the fuel gauge level. If the fuel gauge registers full, it is possible that the odor is
caused by being filled beyond capacity, or some spillage occurred during refueling.
The odor should clear after driving an hour, or twenty miles, allowing the vapor canis-
ter to purge.
b. Check the fuel filler cap for looseness or seepage. Check the cap tightness and, if
loose, properly secure. If seepage is noted, replace the filler cap.
c. Check for loose hose clamps, cracked or damaged fuel delivery and return lines, or
leaking components or seals, and replace or repair as necessary. d. Check the vehicle’s fuel economy. If fuel consumption has increased due to a failed
component, or if the fuel is not properly ignited due to an ignition related failure, the
catalytic converter may become contaminated. This condition may also trigger the
check engine warning light. Check the spark plugs for a dark, rich condition or verify
the condition by testing the vehicle’s emissions. Replace fuel fouled spark plugs, and
test and replace failed components as necessary.
5. Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven
a. Check for a leaking intake gasket or vacuum leak causing a lean running condition. A
lean mixture may result in increased exhaust temperatures, causing the catalytic con-
verter to run hotter than normal. This condition may also trigger the check engine
warning light. Check and repair the vacuum leaks as necessary.
b. Check the vehicle’s alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overcharging,
the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin
to crack, swell or bulge, damaging or shorting the battery internally. If this has oc-
curred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a suitable baking soda and water
mixture or equivalent, and replace the alternator or voltage regulator. Inspect, service,
and load test the battery, and replace if necessary.
9. Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven
a. Check for an engine coolant leak caused by a seeping radiator cap, loose hose clamp,
weeping cooling system seal, gasket or cooling system hose and replace or repair as
needed.
b. Check for a coolant leak from the radiator, coolant reservoir, heater control valve or
under the dashboard from the heater core, and replace the failed part as necessary.
c. Check the engine’s exhaust for white smoke in addition to a sweet odor. The presence
of white, steamy smoke with a sweet odor indicates coolant leaking into the combus-
tion chamber. Possible causes include a failed head gasket, cracked engine block or
cylinder head. Other symptoms of this condition include a white paste build-up on the
inside of the oil filler cap, and softened, deformed or bulging radiator hoses.
19. Engine vibraies when idling
a. Check for loose, collapsed, or damaged engine or transmission mounts and repair or
replace as necessary.
b. Check for loose or damaged engine covers or shields and secure or replace as neces-
sary.
11. Engine vibrates during acceleration
a. Check for missing, loose or damaged exhaust system hangers and mounts; replace or
repair as necessary.
b. Check the exhaust system routing and fit for adequate clearance or potential rubbing;
repair or adjust as necessary.
7. Battery goes dead while driving
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test. If the battery loses fluid while driving, check for an overcharg-
ing condition. If the alternator is overcharging, replace the alternator or voltage regula-
tor. (A voltage regulator is typically built into the alternator, necessitating alternator re-
placement or overhaul.)
b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean or replace corroded cables and clean the bat-
tery terminals.
c. Check the alternator and voltage regulator operation. If the charging system is over or
undercharging, replace the alternator or voltage regulator, or both.
d. Inspect the wiring and wire connectors at the alternator for looseness, a missing .
ground or defective terminal, and repair as necessary.
e. Inspect the alternator drive belt tension, tensioners and condition. Properly tension the
drive belt, replace weak or broken tensioners, and replace the drive belt if worn or
cracked.
2. Battery goes dead overnight
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test.
b. Check for a voltage draw, such as a trunk light, interior light or glove box light staying
on. Check light switch position and operation, and replace if defective.
c. Check the alternator for an internally failed diode, and replace the alternator if defec-
tive.
1. Engine overheats
a. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot and check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture.
b. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.

TROUBLESHOOTlNGll-11
b. Driveshaft misaligned. Check for collapsed or damaged engine and transmission
mounts, and replace as necessary.
c. Driveshaft bent or out of balance. Replace damaged components and reinstall.
d. Driveshaft out of balance. Remove the driveshaft and have it balanced by a competent
professional, or replace the driveshaft assembly.
NOTE: Most driveshafts are linked together by universal joints; however,
some manufacturers use Constant Velocity (CV) joints or rubber flex cou-
plers.
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
1. Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defec-
tive.
2. Front or rear wheel vibrates wlth Increased speed
a. Check for a bent rim and replace, if damaged.
b. Check the tires for balance or internal damage and replace if defective.
c. Check for a loose, worn or damaged wheel bearing and replace if defective.
d. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defec-
tive.
Front Wheel Drive Vehicles
3. Front wheel makes a c&kin@ noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defec-
tive. 4. Rear wheel makes a clicking noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles
5. Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
6. Rear wheel shudders or vibrates
a. Check for a bent rear wheel or axle assembly and replace defective components.
b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn rear wheel bearing and replace as necessary.
1. Burning odor from center of vehicle when accelerating
a. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the
caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear
and caliper-to-piston clearance. For additional information on brake related odors, re-
fer to section 3-A, condition number 9.
b. On vehicles with a manual transmission, check for a slipping clutch. For possible
causes and additional information, refer to section Z-C, condition number 1.
c. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, check the fluid level and condition, Top
off or change the fluid and filter using the recommended replacement parts, lubricant
type and amount. If the odor persists, transmission removal and disassembly will be
necessary.
2. Engine accelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed
a. On vehicles with a manual transmission, check for a slipping or damaged clutch. For
possible causes and additional information refer to section Z-C, condition number 1.
b. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, check the fluid level and condition. Top
off or change the fluid and filter using the recommended replacement parts, lubricant
type and amount. If the slipping continues, transmission removal and disassembly will
be necessary.
1. Brake pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed
a. Check wheel lug nut torque and tighten evenly to specification.
b. Check the brake rotor for trueness and thickness variations. Replace the rotor if it is
too thin, warped, or if the thickness varies beyond specification. Some rotors can be
machined: consult the manufacturer’s specifications and recommendations before us-
ing a machined brake rotor.
c. Check the brake caliper or caliper bracket mounting bolt torque and inspect for loose-
ness. Torque the mounting bolts and inspect for wear or any looseness, including
worn mounting brackets, bushings and sliding pins.
d. Check the wheel bearing for looseness. If the bearing is loose, adjust if possible, oth-
erwise replace the bearing.
2. Brakes make a squealing noise
a. Check the brake rotor for the presence of a ridge on the outer edge; if present, remove
the ridge or replace the brake rotor and brake pads.
b. Check for debris in the brake lining material, clean and reinstall.
c. Check the brake linings for wear and replace the brake linings if wear is approaching
the lining wear limit.
d. Check the brake linings for glazing. Inspect the brake drum or rotor surface and re-
place, along with the brake linings, if the surface is not smooth or even.
e. Check the brake pad or shoe mounting areas for a lack of lubricant or the presence of
surface rust. Clean and lubricate with a recommended high temperature brake grease.
3. Brakes make a flrindinfl noise
a. Check the brake linings and brake surface areas for severe wear or damage. Replace
worn or damaged parts.
b. Check for a seized or partially seized brake causing premature or uneven brake wear,
excessive heat and brake rotor or drum damage. Replace defective parts and inspect
the wheel bearing condition, which could have been damaged due to excessive heat.
4. Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
a. Check for air in the brake hydraulic system. Inspect the brake hydraulic seals, fluid
lines and related components for fluid leaks. Remove the air from the brake system by bleeding the brakes. Be sure to use fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturers rec-
ommended standards.
b. Check for an internally restricted flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose and
flush the brake system.
c. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the
caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear
and caliper-to-piston clearance. Overhaul or replace failed parts and flush the brake
system.
d. Check the vehicle’s alignment and inspect for suspension wear. Replace worn bush-
ings, ball joints and set alignment to the manufacturers specifications.
e. If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake adjustment. Inspect
for seized adjusters and clean or replace, then properly adjust.
5. Brake pedal feels spongy or has excessive travel
a. Check the brake fluid level and condition. If the fluid is contaminated or has not been
flushed every two years, clean the master cylinder reservoir, and bleed and flush the
brakes using fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturers recommended standards.
b. Check for a weak or damaged flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose and
flush the brake system.
c. If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake adjustment. Inspect
for seized adjusters and clean or replace, then properly adjust.
6. Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or
fade
a. Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve: Replace worn
or failed parts.
b. Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged
parts.
c. Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.
7. Vehicle has excessive front end dive or locks rear brakes too easily
a. Check for worn, failed or seized brake proportioning valve and replace the valve.
b. Check for a seized, disconnected or missing spring or linkage for the brake propor-
tioning valve. Replace missing parts or repair as necessary.

IJront Wheel or Wheel Bearing Loose
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.
b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.
Front Wheel Drive Vehicles
a. Torque lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.
b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.
Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Wheel bearing out of adjustment. Adjust wheel bearing to specification; if still loose,
replace.
b. Torque lug nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.
c. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Rear Wheel or Wheel Bearing Loose
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.
b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.
Front Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Wheel bearing out of adjustment. Adjust wheel bearing to specification; if still loose,
replace.
b. Torque lug nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.
c. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.
Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts and to specification and recheck for looseness.
b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.
11-12 TROUBLESHOOTING
8. Brake pedal goes to floor when pressed and will not pump up
a. Check the brake hydraulic fluid level and inspect the fluid lines and seals for leakage.
Repair or replace leaking components, then bleed and flush the brake system using
fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturer’s recommended standards.
b. Check the brake fluid level. Inspect the brake fluid level and brake hydraulic seals. If
the fluid level is ok, and the brake hydraulic system is free of hydraulic leaks, replace
the brake master cylinder, then bleed and flush the brake system using fresh brake
fluid that meets the manufacturer’s recommended standards.
9. Brakes produce a burning odor
a. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the
caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear
and caliper-to-piston clearance. Overhaul or replace failed parts and flush the brake
system.
b. Check for an internally restricted flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose and
flush the brake system.
c. Check the parking brake release mechanism, seized linkage or cable, and repair as
necessary. BRAKE PERFORMANCE TROU5LESHOOTINc; HIIVTS Brake vibrations or pulsation can often be diagnosed on a safe and careful test drive.
A brake vibration which is felt through the brake pedal while braking, but not felt in the
steering wheel, is most likely caused by brake surface variations in the rear brakes. If
both the brake pedal and steering wheel vibrate during braking, a surface variation in the
front brakes, or both front and rear brakes, is very likely.
A brake pedal that pumps up with repeated use can be caused by air in the brake hy-
draulic system or, if the vehicle is equipped with rear drum brakes, the brake adjusters
may be seized or out of adjustment. A quick test for brake adjustment on vehicles with
rear drum brakes is to pump the brake pedal several times with the vehicle’s engine not
running and the parking brake released. Pump the brake pedal several times and con-
tinue to apply pressure to the brake pedal. With pressure being applied to the brake
pedal, engage the parking brake. Release the brake pedal and quickly press the brake
pedal again. If the brake pedal pumped up, the rear brakes are in need of adjustment. Do
not compensate for the rear brake adjustment by adjusting the parking brake, this will
cause premature brake lining wear.
To test a vacuum brake booster, pump the brake pedal several times with the vehicle’s
engine off. Apply pressure to the brake pedal and then start the engine. The brake pedal
should move downward about one inch (25mm).
1. Tires worn on inside tread
a. Check alignment for a toed-out condition. Check and set tire pressures and properly
adjust the toe.
b. Check for worn, damaged or defective suspension components. Replace defective
parts and adjust the alignment.
2. Tires worn on outside tread e
a. Check alignment for a toed-in condition. Check and set tire pressures and properly
adjust the toe.
b. Check for worn, damaged or defective suspension components. Replace defective
parts and adjust the alignment.
3. Tires worn unevenly
a. Check the tire pressure and tire balance. Replace worn or defective tires and check the
.
alignment; adjust if necessary. b. Check for worn shock absorbers. Replaced failed components, worn or defective tires
and check the alignment; adjust if necessary.
c. Check the alignment settings. Check and set tire pressures and properly adjust the
alignment to specification.
d. Check for worn, damaged or defective suspension components. Replace defective
parts and adjust the alignment to specification,
1. Excessive play in steering wheel
a. Check the steering gear free-play adjustment and properly adjust to remove excessive
play.
b. Check the steering linkage for worn, damaged or defective parts. Replace failed com-
ponents and perform a front end alignment.
c. Check for a worn, damaged, or defective steering box, replace the steering gear and
check the front end alignment.
2. Steering wheel shakes at cruising speeds
a. Check for a bent front wheel. Replace a damaged wheel and check the tire for possible
internal damage.
b. Check for an unevenly worn front tire. Replace the tire, adjust tire pressure and bal-
ance.
c. Check the front tires for hidden internal damage. Tires which have encountered large
pot holes or suffered other hard blows may have sustained internal damage and
should be replaced immediately.
d. Check the front tires for an out-of-balance condition. Remove, spin balance and rein-
stall. Torque all the wheel bolts or lug nuts to the recommended specification.
e. Check for a loose wheel bearing. If possible, adjust the bearing, or replace the bearing
if it is a non-adjustable bearing.
3. Steering wheel shakes when braking
a. Refer to section 3-A, condition number 1.
4. Steering wheel becomes stiff when turned
a. Check the steering wheel free-play adjustment and reset as needed.
b. Check for a damaged steering gear assembly. Replace the steering gear and perform a
front end alignment.
c. Check for damaged or seized suspension components. Replace defective components
and perform a front end alignment.
1. Vehicle pulls to one side
a. Tire pressure uneven. Adjust tire pressure to recommended settings.
b. Tires worn unevenly. Replace tires and check alignment settings.
c. Alignment out of specification. Align front end and check thrust angle.
d. Check for a dragging brake and repair or replace as necessary.
2. Vehicle is very bouncy over bumps
a. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
b. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-13
NOTE: When one shock fails, ft is recommended to replace front or rear
units as pairs.
3. Vehicle leans excessively in turns
a. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
b. Check for missing, damaged, or worn stabilizer links or bushings, and replace or in-
stall as necessary.
4. Vehicle ride quality seems excessively ha&h
a. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.
b. Check for excessively high tire pressures and adjust pressures to vehicle recommen-
dations.
5. Vehicle seems low or leans to one side
a. Check for a damaged, broken or weak spring. Replace defective parts and check for a
needed alignment.
b. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.
c. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
Noises 1. Vehicle makes a clicking noises when driven
a. Check the noise to see if it varies with road speed. Verify if the noise is present when
coasting or with steering or throttle input. If the clicking noise frequency changes with
road speed and is not affected by steering or throttle input, check the tire treads for a
stone, piece of glass, nail or another hard object imbedded into the tire or tire tread.
Stones rarely cause a tire puncture and are easily removed. Other objects may create
an air leak when removed. Consider having these objects removed immediately at a
facility equipped to repair tire punctures.
b. If the clicking noise varies with throttle input and steering, check for a worn Constant
Velocity (CV-joint) joint, universal (U- joint) or flex joint.
2. Vehicle makes a clunking or knocking noise over bumps
a. A clunking noise over bumps is most often caused by excessive movement or clear-
ance in a suspension component. Check the suspension for soft, cracked, damaged or
worn bushings. Replace the bushings and check the vehicle’s alignment.
b. Check for loose suspension mounting bolts. Check the tightness on subframe bolts,
pivot bolts and suspension mounting bolts, and torque to specification.
c. Check the vehicle for a loose wheel bearing. Some wheel bearings can be adjusted for
looseness, while others must be replaced if loose. Adjust or replace the bearings as
recommended by the manufacturer.
d. Check the door latch adjustment. If the door is slightly loose, or the latch adjustment
is not centered, the door assembly may create noises over bumps and rough surfaces.
Properly adjust the door latches to secure the door. 3. Vehicle makes a low pitched rumbling noise when driven
a. A low pitched rumbling noise is usually caused by a drive train related bearing and is
most often associated with a wheel bearing which has been damaged or worn. The
damage can be caused by excessive brake temperatures or physical contact with a pot
hole or curb. Sometimes the noise will vary when turning. Left hand turns increase the
load on the vehicle’s right side, and right turns load the left side. A failed front wheel
bearing may also cause a slight steering wheel vibration when turning. A bearing
which exhibits noise must be replaced.
b. Check the tire condition and balance. An internally damaged tire may cause failure
symptoms similar to failed suspension parts. For diagnostic purposes, try a known
good set of tires and replace defective tires.
4. Vehicle makes a squeaking noise over bumps
a. Check the vehicle’s ball joints for wear, damaged or leaking boots. Replace a ball joint
if it is loose, the boot is damaged and leaking, or the ball joint is binding. When re-
placing suspension parts, check the vehicle for alignment.
b. Check for seized or deteriorated bushings. Replace bushings that are worn or dam-
aged and check the vehicle for alignment.
c. Check for the presence of sway bar or stabilizer bar bushings which wrap around the
bar. Inspect the condition of the bushings and replace if worn or damaged. Remove
the bushing bracket and apply a thin layer of suspension grease to the area where the
bushings wrap around the bar and reinstall the bushing brackets. ~
5. Vehicle vibrates when driven
a. Check the road surface. Roads which have rough or uneven surfaces may cause un-
usual vi brations.
b. Check the tire condition and balance. An internally damaged tire may cause failure
symptoms similar to failed suspension parts. For diagnostic purposes, try a known
good set of tires and replace defective tires immediately.
c. Check for a worn Constant Velocity (CV-joint) joint, universal (U- joint) or flex joint
and replace if loose, damaged or binding.
d. Check for a loose, bent, or out-of-balance axle or drive shaft. Replace damaged or
failed components.
NOTE: Diagnosing failures related to wheels, tires, steering and the sus-
pension system can often times be accomplished with a careful and thor-
ough test drive. Bearing noises are isolated by noting whether the noises
or symptoms vary when turning left or right, or occur while driving a
straight line. During a teft hand turn, the vehicle’s weight shifts to the
right, placing more force on the right side bearings, such that if a right side
wheel bearing is worn or damaged, the noise or vibration should increase
during light-to-heavy acceleration. Conversely, on right hand turns, the ve-
hicle tends to lean to the left, loading the left side bearings.
Knocking noises in the suspension when the vehicle is driven over rough roads, rail-
road tracks and speed bumps indicate worn suspension components such as bushings,
ball joints or tie rod ends, or a worn steering system.
1. One headlight only works on high or low beam
a. Check for battery voltage at headlight electrical connector. If battery voltage is present,
replace the headlight assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage is not
present, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
2. Headlight does not work on high or low beam
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector. If battery volt-
age is present, check the headlight connector ground terminal for a proper ground. If
battery voltage and ground are present at the headlight connector, replace the head-
light assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage or ground is not pre-
sent, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
b. Check the headlight switch operation. Replace the switch if the switch is defective or
ooerates intermittentlv. 1. Tail light, running light or side marker light inoperative
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at light’s electrical connector. If battery voltage is
present, check the bulb socket and electrical connector ground terminal for a proper
ground. If battery voltage and ground are present at the light connector, but not in the
socket, clean the socket and the ground terminal connector. If battery voltage and
ground are present in the bulb socket, replace the bulb. If battery voltage or ground is
not present, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot for an open circuit.
b. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
2. Tall light, running light or side marker light works intermittently
a. Check the bulb for a damaged filament, and replace if damaged.
b. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
w 3. Headlight(s) very dim
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector. If battery volt-
age is present, trace the ground circuit for the headlamp electrical connector, then
clean and repair as necessary. If the voltage at the headlight electrical connector is
significantly less than the voltage at the battery, refer to the headlight wiring diagram
to troubleshoot and locate the voltage drop. c. Check for loose, damaged or corroded wires and electrical terminals, and repair as
necessary.
d. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
3. Tail light, running light or side marker light very dim
a. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.