1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE ground clearance

Troubleshooting Basic Starting System Problems Troubleshooting Basic Charging System Problems
Pmblem
Starter motor rotates engrne slowly cause
* Battery charge low or battery
defecttve Sobnlon
. Charge or replace battery
- Defective crrcurt between battery
and starter motor
* Low load current
* Hugh load current + Clean and ttghten, or replace
cables
* Bench-test starter motor Inspect
for wom brushes and weak
brush springs.
. Bench-test starter motor Check
engtne for fncbon, drag or coolant
rn cylinders. Check nng gear-to-
prnton gear clearance.
Starter motor wrll not rotate engrne
Starter motor dnve wrll not engage
(solenotd known to be good)
Starter motor dnve wtli not
dtsengage * Battery charge low or battery * Charge or replaoe battery
defecttve
* Faulty solenord . Check solenoid ground Reparr or
replace as necessary.
* Damaged drive pnron gear or * Replace damaged gear(s)
ring gear
* Starter motor engagement weak . Bench-test starter motor
. Starter motor rotates slowly wtth . Inspect dnve yoke pull-down and
high load current pornt gap, check for worn end
bushtngs. check m-g gear clear-
ance
. Engine setzed * Repatr engk7e
. Defecbve contact pant assembly * Reparr or replace contact pornt
assembly
. Inadequate contact pornt assembly + Repatr connectron at ground screw
ground
- Defeckve hold-In co11
* Replace field w~ndrng assembly
- Starter motor loose on flywheel . Ttghten mounttng bolts
houstng
. Worn drive end bustng . Replace bushtrg
* Damaged nng gear teeth . Replace ring gear or dnveplate
* Drive yoke return spnng broken or . Replace spnng
mtsstng
Starter motor dnve d&engages
prematurely
Low load current * Weak drive assembly thrust spnng * Replace dnve mechamsm
* Hold-tn co11 defeckve
. Replace field wtndtng assembly *
- Worn brushes . Replace brushes
* Weak brush springs * Replace spnngs Problem
Noisy alternator cause
* Loose mounbngs
. Loose drive pulley SoluIion
. Ttghten mountrng bolts
. Tighten pulley
. Worn beanngs
* Brush notse
* Internal circuits shorted (Hugh
pitched whrne) * Replace alternator
. Replace alternator
. Replace alternator
Squeal when starting engtne or . Glazed or loose belt * Replace or adfust belt
acceleratmg
Indicator light rematns on or . Broken belt . Install heft
ammeter rndrcates drscharge . Broken or dksconnected wares - Repatr or connect Waring
(ejrgrne runmng) * Internal aitemator problems * Replace alternator
. Defectrve voltage regulator . Replace vottage regulator/alternator
Car Irght bulbs contmually bum out- * Alternator/regulator overchargtng . Replace voltage
batter-v needs water conbnually regulatoriatternator
Car kghts flare on acceleratton . Battery low
. Internal alternator/regulator
problems * Charge or replace battery
. Replace alternator/regulator
Low voltage output (alternator lght
fltckers conbnually or ammeter
needle wanders) * Loose or worn belt
* Dkly or corroded connecttons
* Internal alternator/regulator
oroblems . Replace or adjust beit
. Clean or replace connecttons
* Replace alternator/regulator

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-63
Place a straightedge across the gasket surface. Valves
Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the
center of the straightedge and across the cylinder Any valves that were not replaced should be
head at several points. Check along the centerline refaced and the tips ground flat. Unless you have ac-
and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage cess to a valve grinding machine, this should be
exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. done by a machine shop. If the valves are in ex-
(152cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total tremely good condition, as well as the valve seats
length of the head, the cylinder head must be resur- and guides, they may be lapped in without petform-
,
I mg macnme worK.
4
It is a recnmmended practice to lap the valves faced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine
the intake manifold flange surface should be checker,
and if necessary, milled proportionally to allow for
the change in its mounting position. _ - _ _ _ .- - - _
even after machine work has been p&formed and/or
new valves have been purchased. This insures a pos-
itive seal between the valve and seat.
-guide clearance; the 1
read
. .
into the cylinder head. Position the dial indicator
against the valve stem near the tie and zero the
gauge. Grasp the valve stem and’wiggle towards and
away from the dial indicator and observe the read-
ings. Mount the dial indicator 90 degrees from the
initial point and zero the gauge and again take a read-
ing. Compare the two readings for a out of round
condition. Check the readings against the specifica-
tions given. An Inside Diameter (I.D.) gauge designed
for valve guides will give you an accurate valve guide
bore measurement. If the I.D. gauge is used, compare
the readings with the specifications given. Any CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE
Generally, cracks are limited to the combustion
chamber, hbwever, it is not uncommon for the head
to crack in a spark plug hole, port, outside of the
head or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first
area to inspect is always the hottest: the exhaust
.I *
seawpon area.
8 I .,“““I llly”Lv”l~ .ml”“l” - plr”llll”“, ““I ,“a’
because you don’t see a crack does not mean it is not
there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for
cracks include Magnaflux? a magn$i,c process or
Zyglo? a dye penetrant. Ma{ -’
InatluxW IS used only on
ferrous metal (cast iron) heat Is. Zyglo@ uses a spray
on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to re-
veal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have
your cylinder head checked professionally for cracks,
especially if the engine was known to have over-
I .* I,. ..^.. LAPPING THE VALVES
*Before iaoaino the valves to the seats,
read the rest of the cylinder head section to
insure that any related parts are in accept-
able enough condition to continue.
*Before anv valve seat machining and/or
lapping can be performed, the guides must
be within factory recommended specifica-
tions.
1. Invert the cylinder head.
2. Linhtlv Iuhrir;rB the valve stems and insert
-. _ ~ . . . . . .--.._-._
them into the cylinder head in their numbered order.
3. Raise the valve from the seat and apply a small
amount of fine lanninn compound to the seat.
4.
i guides that fail these inspections should be replaced nearea analor ieaKea or consumea coolant. Contact a Moisten the suction head of a hand-lapping
tool and attach it to the head of the valve.
i or machined. local shop for availability and pricing of these ser-
5. Rotate the tool between the palms of both
I vices.
I
VALVE SEATS Physical damage is usually very evident. For ex- hands, changing the position of the valve on the
valve seat and lifting the tool often to prevent groov-
A visual inspection of the valve seats should show
amnb P hrnbn mntlntinn ear from dropping the I and/or bolt. All of these ing.
.a,... . 6. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished circle is
a slightly worn and pitted surface where the valve
face contacts the seat. Inspect the seat carefully for
severe pitting or cracks. Also, a seat that is badly
worn will be recessed into the cylinder head. A se-
verely worn or recessed seat may need to be re- uetecIs SIIOUIO oe nxea or, IT unrepairaole, me neaa
should be replaced.
Camshaft and Followers evid
7
traces of the grinding corn
to maintain its lapped loca lent on the valve and seat.
‘. Remove the tool and the valve. Wipe away all
pound and store the valve
placed: All cracked seats must be replaced. A seat
concentricity gauge, if available, should be used to
check the seat run-out. If run-out exceeds specifica-
tions the seat must be machined (if no soecification
is given use 0.002 in. or O.O51mt$. Inspect the camshaft(s) and followers as described
earlier in this section.
REFINISHING & REPAIRING Do not get the valves out of order after they
have been lapped. They must be put back
: ..^^ I... --I:^:-L!-- --A
Many of the procedures gIveI
WI WIIIIISIIIIIIJ ~IIU repairing the cylinder head components must be per-
formed by a machine shop. Certain steps, if the in-
spected part is not worn, can be performed yourself
inexpensively. However, you spent a lot of time and
effort so far, why risk trying to save a couple bucks if
you might have to do it all over again?
I- with the same valve seat with which they
were lapped.
Springs, Retainers and Valve locks
There is no repair or refinishing possible with the
springs, retainers and valve locks. If they are found to
be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new
lor known nnod narts CYLtNDEt? HEAD SURFACE FLATNESS
) See Figures 256 and 257
After you have cleaned the gasket surface of the
cylinder head of any old gasket material, check the
head for flatness.
\- - a---r r- .-.
Cylinder Head
Most refinishing procedures dealing with the
VALVE GWDE
elf any machining or replacements are
e valve guides, the seats must be
Fig. 257 Checks should also be made along Unless the valve guides need machining or re-
placing, the only service to perform is to thoroughly‘
clean them of any dirt or oil residue.

BRAKES 9-29
8. Reinstall the sensor harness with its clamps
and bolts.
9. Reconnect the speed sensor connector.
IO. Install the fender splash shield.
11. Reinstall the tire and wheel, safely lower the
vehicle, and reconnect the negative battery cable. To install: 7. Install the speed sensor and torque to 9 ft.
Ibs. (12 Nm).
8. Install the clips holding the sensor harness.
9. Connect the speed sensor connector.
IO. Connect the negative battery cable.
REAR REAR
) See Figure 131 and 132
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at
least 90 seconds before performing any work.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove
the necessary tire and wheel assembly.
3. Detach the ABS speed sensor connector.
4. Remove the sensor harness clamp bolts and
clamps.
I) See Figure 133
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the ABS speed sensor mounting bolt
and the sensor.
Work must be started after 90 seconds from
the time the ignition switch is turned to the
LOCK position and the negative battery cable
is disconnected.
To install:
6. Install the ABS speed sensor with its mounting
bolt.
*The clearance between the wheel speed
sensor and the rotor’s toothed surface is not
adjustable, but measure the distance be-
tween the sensor installation surface and the
rotor’s toothed surface. Standard value is:
1.11-l .I2 in. (28.2-28.4mm). If not within
specifications, replace the speed sensor or
the toothed rotor.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Detach the speed sensor connector.
4. Remove the clips holding the sensor harness.
5. On AWD models, remove the cable band.
6. Remove the mounting bolt and the speed
sensor with the O-ring.
To install: 7. Install the speed sensor with the O-ring and
torque to 9 ft. Ibs. (12 Nm).
8. Install the clips holding the sensor harness.
9. Install the cable band.
10. Install the sensor wire harness and connect
the connector.
7. Reinstall the sensor harness with its clamps
and bolts.
8. Reconnect the speed sensor connector.
9. Reinstall the tire and wheel, safely lower the
vehicle, and reconnect the negative battery cable.
Diamante
FRONT
* See Figure 133
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Work must be started after 90 seconds from
the time the ignition switch is turned to the
LOCK position and the negative battery cable
is disconnected.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the splash shield.
4. Detach the speed sensor connector.
5. Remove the clips holding the sensor harness.
6. Remove the speed sensor.
1 Front toothed rotor
2 Ckp
3 Front speed sensor
4 Front speed aenmr bracket t ;5’ toothed rotor ‘I Rear speed SB"SO,
93159016
Fig. 133 Wheel speed sensors-Diamante
11. Connect the negative battery cable.
The G-sensors are used only on the AWD vehi-
cles. The rear is mounted in the trunk under the floor
mat while the front sensor is under the console as-
sembly. The sensor transmits acceleration and decel-
eration information to the anti-lock control unit. This
data is used in conjunction with individual wheel
speed and engine data, allowing the controller to de-
termine the approximate road friction. This friction
factor is then used to compute the proper control of
the solenoid valves.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
# See Figure 134
1. For the front sensor, remove the console as-
sembly.
-lkol*)
1 wimp--vx
2 Gasnan I‘m”0
3. Gmwor LmcM
Bmar burl
: wwzh&T&m~mm-
6 G.smsol Ired Th, - ape.24 m-5 un Nt- vmsa*.
7 c-.elwnbRcta
93159909 Fig. 134 Front and rear G-sensor mount-
ing-l 990-93 AWD Galant
2. For the rear sensor, remove the trunk floor
mat.
3. Disconnect the G-sensor wiring harness.
4. Remove the cover from the rear sensor. Re-
move the sensor from the bracket. Remove the
bracket if desired.
To install: 5. Reinstall the bracket if it was removed.
6. Install the G-sensor and connect the wiring
harness. Tighten the retaining bolts to 8 ft. Ibs. (11
Nm).
7. Install the cover on the rear G-sensor.
8, Install the console and/or the trunk floor mat or
carpet.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Front
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor and discon-
nect sufficient harness clips to allow the sensor and
wiring to be moved out of the work area.
*The speed sensor has a pole piece project-
ing from it. This exposed tip must be pro-
tected from impact or scratches. Do not al-
low the pole piece to contact the toothed
wheel during removal or installation.
4. Remove the front hub and knuckle assembly.
5. Remove the hub from the knuckle.
6. Support the hub in a vise with protected jaws.
7. Remove the retaining bolts from the toothed
wheel and remove the toothed wheel.
To install: 8. Fit the new toothed wheel onto the hub and
tighten the retaining bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).
9. Assemble the hub to the knuckle
IO. Install the hub and knuckle assembly to the
vehicle.
11. Install the wheel speed sensor.
12. Install the wheel and tire.
13. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Rear
EXCEPT AWD GALANT
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor and discon-
nect sufficient harness clips to allow the sensor and
wiring to be moved out of the work area.
*The speed sensor has a pole piece project-
ing from it. This exposed tip must be pro-
tected from impact or scratches. Do not al-
low the pole piece to contact the toothed
wheel during removal or installation.
4. Remove the hub assembly.
5. Support the hub in a vise with protected jaws.
6. Remove the retaining bolts from the toothed
wheel and remove the toothed wheel.
To install: 7. Fit the new toothed wheel onto the hub and
tighten the retaining bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).
8. Install the hub assembly to the vehicle. The
center hub nut is not reusable. The new nut must be

II-6 TROUBLESHOOTING
DIAGhUSTIC PROCEDURES
Gasoline Engines
1. Engine turns over, but wilt not start
a. Check fuel level in fuel tank, add fuel if empty.
b. Check battery condition and state of charge. If voltage and load test below specifica-
tion, charge or replace battery.
c. Check battery terminal and cable condition and tightness. Clean terminals and replace
damaged, worn or corroded cables.
d. Check fuel delivery system. If fuel is not reaching the fuel injectors, check for a loose
electrical connector or defective fuse, relay or fuel pump and replace as necessary.
e. Engine may have excessive wear or mechanical damage such as low cylinder cranking
pressure, a broken camshaft drive system, insufficient valve clearance or bent valves.
f. Check for fuel contamination such as water in the fuel. During winter months, the wa-
ter may freeze and cause a fuel restriction. Adding a fuel additive may help, however
the fuel system may require draining and purging with fresh fuel.
g. Check for ignition system failure. Check for loose or shorted wires or damaged igni-
tion system components. Check the spark plugs for excessive wear or incorrect elec-
trode gap. If the problem is worse in wet weather, check for shorts between the spark
plugs and the ignition coils.
h. Check the engine management system for a failed sensor or control module.
2. Engine does not turn over when attempting to start
a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or
very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or
discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the al-
ternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replacethe
battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output.
b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles,
try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, de-
press the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be
adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Re-
place or adjust the switches as necessary.
c. Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires.
Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose,
damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a re-
mote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or cor-
roded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.
d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of
time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine
may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water.
Remove the spark plugs and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable
breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or
moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining
the problem.
3. Enpine stalls immediately when started
a. Check the ignition switch condition and operation. The electrical contacts in the run
position may be worn or damaged. Try restarting the engine with all electrical acces-
sories in the off position. Sometimes turning the key on an off will help in emergency
situations, however once the switch has shown signs of failure, it should be replaced
as soon as possible.
b. Check for loose, corroded, damaged or shorted wires for the ignition system and re-
pair or replace.
c. Check for manifold vacuum leaks or vacuum hose leakage and repair or replace parts
as necessary.
d. Measure the fuel pump delivery volume and pressure. Low fuel pump pressure can
also be noticed as a lack of power when accelerating. Make sure the fuel pump lines
are not restricted. The fuel pump output is not adjustable and requires fuel pump re-
placement to repair.
e. Check the engine fuel and ignition management system. Inspect the sensor wiring and
electrical connectors. A dirty, loose or damaged sensor or control module wire can
simulate a failed component.
f. Check the exhaust system for internal restrictions.
4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage
a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear.
b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.
5. Engine is difficult to start when Gold
a. Check the battery condition, battery state of charge and starter motor current draw. Re-
place the battery if marginal and the starter motor if the current draw is beyond specifi-
cation. b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean the battery terminals and replace corroded or
damaged cables.
c. Check the fuel system for proper operation. A fuel pump with insufficient fuel pressure
or clogged injectors should be replaced.
d. Check the engine’s tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items
such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with
manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
e. Check for a failed coolant temperature sensor, and replace if out of specification.
f. Check the operation of the engine management systems for fuel and ignition; repair or
replace failed components as necessary.
6. En#ine is ditticutt to start when hot
a. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contami-
nated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
b. Check for loose or deteriorated engine grounds and clean, tighten or replace as
needed.
c. Check for needed maintenance. Inspect tune-up and service related items such as
spark plugs and engine oil condition, and check the operation of the engine fuel and
ignition management system.
Diesel Engines
1. Engine turns over but won’t start
a. Check engine starting procedure and restart engine.
b. Check the glow plug operation and repair or replace as necessary.
c. Check for air in the fuel system or fuel filter and bleed the air as necessary.
d. Check the fuel delivery system and repair or replace as necessary.
e. Check fuel level and add fuel as needed.
f. Check fuel quality. If the fuel is contaminated, drain and flush the fuel tank.
g. Check engine compression. If compression is below specification, the engine may
need to be renewed or replaced.
h. Check the injection pump timing and set to specification.
i. Check the injection pump condition and replace as necessary.
j. Check the fuel nozzle operation and condition or replace as necessary.
2. Engine does
hot turn over when attempting to start
a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or
very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or
discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the al-
ternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replace the
battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output.
b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles,
try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, de-
press the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be
adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Re-
place or adjust the switches as necessary.
c. Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires.
Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose,
damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a re-
mote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or cor-
roded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.
d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of
time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine
may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water.
Remove the injectors and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable
breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or
moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining
the cause of the problem.
3. Engine stalls afier starting
a. Check for a restriction in the fuel return line or the return line check valve and repair as
necessary.
b. Check the glow plug operation for turning the glow plugs off too soon and repair as
necessary.
c. Check for incorrect injection pump timing and reset to specification.
d. Test the engine fuel pump and replace if the output is below specification.
e. Check for contaminated or incorrect fuel. Completely flush the fuel system and replace
with fresh fuel.
f. Test the engine’s compression for low compression. If below specification, mechanical
repairs are necessary to repair.
g. Check for air in the fuel. Check fuel tank fuel and fill as needed.
h. Check for a failed injection pump. Replace the pump, making sure to properly set the
pump timing.

11-8 TROUBLESHOOTING
Ignition systems may be controlled by, or linked to, the engine fuel management sys-
tem. Similar to the fuel injection system, these ignition systems rely on electronic sen-
sors for information to determine the optimum ignition timing for a given engine speed
and load. Some ignition systems no longer allow the ignition timing to be adjusted.
Feedback from low voltage electrical sensors provide information to the control unit to
determine the amount of ignition advance. On these systems, if a failure occurs the failed
component must be replaced. Before replacing suspected failed electrical components,
carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make
sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If
necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of clean-
ing agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should be avoided, as they
could leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
1. Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel being used. Depending on the type of driving or
driving conditions, it may be necessary to use a higher octane fuel.
b. Verify the ignition system settings and operation. Improperly adjusted ignition timing
or a failed component, such as a knock sensor, may cause the ignition timing to ad-
vance excessively or prematurely. Check the ignition system operation and adjust, or
replace components as needed.
c. Check the spark plug gap, heat range and condition. If the vehicle is operated in se-
vere operating conditions or at continuous high speeds, use a colder heat range spark
plug. Adjust the spark plug gap to the manufacturer’s recommended specification and
replace worn or damaged spark plugs.
2. Sfarter motor grinds when used
a. Examine the starter pinion gear and the engine ring gear for damage, and replace dam-
aged parts.
b. Check the starter mounting bolts and housing. If the housing is cracked or damaged
replace the starter motor and check the mounting bolts for tightness.
3. Engine makes a screeching noise
a. Check the accessory drive belts for looseness and adjust as necessary.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for seizing or excessive bearing noises and
replace if loose, binding, or excessively noisy.
c. Check for a seizing water pump. The pump may not be leaking; however, the bearing
may be faulty or the impeller loose and jammed. Replace the water pump.
4. Engine makes a growling noise
a. Check for a loose or failing water pump. Replace the pump and engine coolant.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for excessive bearing noises and replace if
loose or excessively noisy.
5. Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise
a. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low or dirty engine oil and top off
or replace the engine oil and filter.
b. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for collapsed lifters and replace failed
components.
c. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low oil pressure caused by a re-
stricted oil filter, worn engine oil pump, or oil pressure relief valve.
d. On vehicles with manually adjusted valves, check for excessive valve clearance or
worn valve train parts. Adjust the valves to specification or replace worn and defective
parts.
e. Check for a loose or improperly tensioned timing belt or timing chain and adjust or re-
place parts as necessary.
f. Check for a bent or sticking exhaust or intake valve. Remove the engine cylinder head
to access and replace.
6. Engine makes a heavy knocking noise
a. Check for a loose crankshaft pulley or flywheel; replace and torque the mounting
bolt(s) to specification.
b. Check for a bent connecting rod caused by a hydro-lock condition. Engine disassem-
bly is necessary to inspect for damaged and needed replacement parts.
c. Check for excessive engine rod bearing wear or damage. This condition is also asso-
ciated with low engine oil pressure and will require engine disassembly to inspect for
damaged and needed replacement parts,
7. Vehicle has a fuel odor when driven ’ a. Check the fuel gauge level. If the fuel gauge registers full, it is possible that the odor is
caused by being filled beyond capacity, or some spillage occurred during refueling.
The odor should clear after driving an hour, or twenty miles, allowing the vapor canis-
ter to purge.
b. Check the fuel filler cap for looseness or seepage. Check the cap tightness and, if
loose, properly secure. If seepage is noted, replace the filler cap.
c. Check for loose hose clamps, cracked or damaged fuel delivery and return lines, or
leaking components or seals, and replace or repair as necessary. d. Check the vehicle’s fuel economy. If fuel consumption has increased due to a failed
component, or if the fuel is not properly ignited due to an ignition related failure, the
catalytic converter may become contaminated. This condition may also trigger the
check engine warning light. Check the spark plugs for a dark, rich condition or verify
the condition by testing the vehicle’s emissions. Replace fuel fouled spark plugs, and
test and replace failed components as necessary.
5. Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven
a. Check for a leaking intake gasket or vacuum leak causing a lean running condition. A
lean mixture may result in increased exhaust temperatures, causing the catalytic con-
verter to run hotter than normal. This condition may also trigger the check engine
warning light. Check and repair the vacuum leaks as necessary.
b. Check the vehicle’s alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overcharging,
the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin
to crack, swell or bulge, damaging or shorting the battery internally. If this has oc-
curred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a suitable baking soda and water
mixture or equivalent, and replace the alternator or voltage regulator. Inspect, service,
and load test the battery, and replace if necessary.
9. Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven
a. Check for an engine coolant leak caused by a seeping radiator cap, loose hose clamp,
weeping cooling system seal, gasket or cooling system hose and replace or repair as
needed.
b. Check for a coolant leak from the radiator, coolant reservoir, heater control valve or
under the dashboard from the heater core, and replace the failed part as necessary.
c. Check the engine’s exhaust for white smoke in addition to a sweet odor. The presence
of white, steamy smoke with a sweet odor indicates coolant leaking into the combus-
tion chamber. Possible causes include a failed head gasket, cracked engine block or
cylinder head. Other symptoms of this condition include a white paste build-up on the
inside of the oil filler cap, and softened, deformed or bulging radiator hoses.
19. Engine vibraies when idling
a. Check for loose, collapsed, or damaged engine or transmission mounts and repair or
replace as necessary.
b. Check for loose or damaged engine covers or shields and secure or replace as neces-
sary.
11. Engine vibrates during acceleration
a. Check for missing, loose or damaged exhaust system hangers and mounts; replace or
repair as necessary.
b. Check the exhaust system routing and fit for adequate clearance or potential rubbing;
repair or adjust as necessary.
7. Battery goes dead while driving
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test. If the battery loses fluid while driving, check for an overcharg-
ing condition. If the alternator is overcharging, replace the alternator or voltage regula-
tor. (A voltage regulator is typically built into the alternator, necessitating alternator re-
placement or overhaul.)
b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean or replace corroded cables and clean the bat-
tery terminals.
c. Check the alternator and voltage regulator operation. If the charging system is over or
undercharging, replace the alternator or voltage regulator, or both.
d. Inspect the wiring and wire connectors at the alternator for looseness, a missing .
ground or defective terminal, and repair as necessary.
e. Inspect the alternator drive belt tension, tensioners and condition. Properly tension the
drive belt, replace weak or broken tensioners, and replace the drive belt if worn or
cracked.
2. Battery goes dead overnight
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test.
b. Check for a voltage draw, such as a trunk light, interior light or glove box light staying
on. Check light switch position and operation, and replace if defective.
c. Check the alternator for an internally failed diode, and replace the alternator if defec-
tive.
1. Engine overheats
a. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot and check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture.
b. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.

II-20 GLOSSARY
SECONDARY CIRCUIT: The high voltage side of the ignition system, usu-
ally above 20,000 volts. The secondary includes the ignition coil, coil wire,
distributor cap and rotor, spark plug wires and spark plugs.
SENDING UNIT: A mechanical, electrical, hydraulic or electromagnetic de-
vice which transmits information to a gauge.
SENSOR: Any device designed to measure engine operating conditions or
ambient pressures and temperatures. Usually electronic in nature and designed
to send a voltage signal to an on-board computer, some sensors may oper-
ate as a simple on/off switch or they may provide a variable voltage signal
(like a potentiometer) as conditions or measured parameters change.
SHIM: Spacers of precise, predetermined thickness used between parts to es-
tablish a proper working relationship.
SLAVE CYLINDER: In automotive use, a device in the hydraulic clutch sys-
tem which is activated by hydraulic force, disengaging the clutch.
SOLENOID: An electrically operated, magnetic switching device.
SPARK PLUG: A device screwed into the combustion chamber of a spark ig-
nition engine. The basic construction is a conductive core inside of a ceramic
insulator, mounted in an outer conductive base. An electrical charge from the
spark plug wire travels along the conductive core and jumps a preset air gap
to a grounding point or points at the end of the conductive base. The resul-
tant spark ignites the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber.
SPLINES: Ridges machined or cast onto the outer diameter of a shaft or in-
ner diameter of a bore to enable parts to mate without rotation.
TACHOMETER: A device used to measure the rotary speed of an engine,
shaft, gear, etc., usually in rotations per minute.
THERMOSTAT: A valve, located in the cooling system of an engine, which
is closed when cold and opens gradually in response to engine heating, con-
trolling the temperature of the coolant and rate of coolant flow.
TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC): The point at which the piston reaches the top
of its travel on the compression stroke.
TORQUE: Measurement of turning or twisting force, expressed as foot-pounds
or inch-pounds.
TORQUE CONVERTER: A turbine used to transmit power from a driving
member to a driven member via hydraulic action, providing changes in drive
ratio and torque. In automotive use, it links the driveplate at the rear of the en-
gine to the automatic transmission. TRANSDUCER: A device that changes energy from one form to another. For
example, a transducer in a microphone changes sound energy to electrical en-
ergy. In automotive air-conditioning controls used in automatic temperature
systems, a transducer changes an electrical signal to a vacuum signal, which
operates mechanical doors.
TRANSISTOR: A semi-conductor component which can be actuated by a
small voltage to perform an electrical switching function.
TUNE-UP: A regular maintenance function, usually associated with the re-
placement and adjustment of parts and components in the electrical and fuel
systems of a vehicle for the purpose of attaining optimum performance.
TURBOCHARGER: An exhaust driven pump which compresses intake air
and forces it into the combustion chambers at higher than atmospheric pres-
sures The increased air pressure allows more fuel to be burned and results
in increased horsepower being produced.
.
VACUUM ADVANCE: A device which advances the ignition timing in re-
sponse to increased engine vacuum.
VACUUM GAUGE: An instrument used for measuring the existing vacuum
in a vacuum circuit or chamber. The unit of measure is inches (of mercury in
a barometer).
VALVE: Devices that can open or close fluid passages in a hydraulic system
and are used for directing fluid flow and controlling pressure.
VALVE CLEARANCE: The measured gap between the end of the valve stem
and the rocker arm, cam lobe or follower that activates the valve.
VISCOSITY: The ability of a fluid to flow. The lower the viscosity rating, the
easier the fluid will flow. 10 weight motor oil will flow much easier than 40
weight motor oil.
VOLTMETER: An instrument used for measuring electrical force in units
called volts. Voltmeters are always connected parallel with the circuit being
tested.
WHEEL CYLINDER: Found in the automotive drum brake assembly, it is a
device, actuated by hydraulic pressure, which, through internal pistons, pushes
the brake shoes outward against the drums.