2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 air condition

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

5. Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase ventilation
(PCV) hose.
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
8. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
9. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
10. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
11. Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
12. Remove fuel rail.
13. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
14. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
15. Remove the heater hoses from the engine front cover and the heater core.
16. Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from intake manifold.
17. Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
REMOVAL).
18. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
19. Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Install intake manifold gaskets.
2. Install intake manifold.
3. Install intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in
sequence shown in to 12 Nꞏm (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
5. Install throttle body assembly.
6. Connect throttle cable and speed control cable to
throttle body.
7. Install fuel rail.
8. Install ignition coil towers.
9. Position and install heater hoses and tubes onto intake manifold.
10. Install the heater hoses to the heater core and engine front cover.
11. Connect electrical connectors for the following components:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
Ignition coil towers
Fuel injectors

COVER-TIMING
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
3. Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud assem-
bly.
4. Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
5. Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
6. Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
7. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(1).
8. Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
9. Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
10. Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anerobic
sealer instead of a gasket to seal the front cover
to the engine block, from the factory. For service,
Mopar
Grey Engine RTV sealant must be substi-
tuted.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water
pump for timing cover removal.
11. Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to
engine block .
12. Remove the timing cover.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean
timing cover or block surfaces. Use only rubbing
alcohol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers.
Use no wire brushes or abrasive wheels or metal
scrapers, or damage to surfaces could result.
1. Clean timing chain cover and block surface using
rubbing alcohol.
CAUTION: The 3.7L uses a special anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the timing cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service repairs,
Mopar
Engine Grey RTV must be used as a sub-
stitute.
2. Inspect the water passage o-rings for any damage,
and replace as necessary.
3. Apply Mopar
Grey Engine RTV sealer (3) to front
cover(1)followingthepathprovidedusinga3to
4mm thick bead (3).
4. Install cover. Tighten fasteners in sequence as
showninto58Nꞏm(43ft.lbs.).
5. Install crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTAL-
LATION).
6. Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
7. Install the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION).
8. Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT
TENSIONERS - INSTALLATION).
9. Install radiator upper and lower hoses.
10. Install both heater hoses.
11. Install electric fan shroud and viscous fan drive
assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN
DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
12. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
13. Connect the battery negative cable.

ENGINE - 4.7L - SERVICE INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL INJECTION/IDLE AIR
CONTROL MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture too lean or too rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).

Ensurethebatteryiscompletelychargedandtheenginestartermotorisingood operating condition. Otherwise the
indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
4. Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUTDOWNRELAY-
REMOVAL).
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDERCOMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiatorcap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain
483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer’s instructions. Set piston of
cylinder to be tested at TDC compression,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle
body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the
cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuckorbrokenpistonrings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions notdetected and remedied by routine main-
tenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either performance (e.g., engineidles rough and stalls) or mechanical
(e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)—MECHANICAL for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specificengine malfunctions that can not be iso-
lated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided within the
following diagnosis:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Cylinder Combustion Pressure LeakageTest (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSISAND TESTING).
Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKEMANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consistsof:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when apply-
ing form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material
unless specified.Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage
while too much can result in spill-overwhich can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the
proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar
Engine RTV
GEN II, Mopar
ATF-RTV, and MoparGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not
be used in place of the other.
MOPAR
ENGINE RTV GEN II
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the
air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After
one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
AT F R T V
Mopar
ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties
to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is avail-

13. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
14. Remove torque converter bolts (Automatic Transmission Only).
15. Remove transmission to engine mounting bolts.
16. Disconnect the engine block heater power cable from the block heater, if equipped.
17. Lower vehicle.
18. Remove throttle body resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
19. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
20. Disconnect tube from both the left and right side
crankcase breathers (1). Remove breathers
21. Discharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
22. Remove A/C compressor (2) (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL).
23. Remove shroud, fan assembly (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL) and accessory drive belt
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/
DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
24. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the
radiator.
25. Disconnect radiator upper and lower hoses.
26. Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR - REMOVAL), A/C condenser (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING/A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL) and trans-
mission oil cooler.