CODE FAMILY NAME COMMON TRADE NAME TYPICAL APPLICATION
MPU FOAM POLYURETHANE MPU SPOILERS
PE POLYETHYLENE ALATHON, DYLAN,
LUPOLEN, MARLEX—
PP POLYPROPYLENE
(BLENDS)NORYL, AZDEL, MARLOX,
DYLON, PRAVEXINNER FENDER, SPOILERS,
KICK PANELS
PP/EPDM PP/EPDM ALLOY PP/EPDM SPOILERS, GRILLES
PUR POLYURETHANE COLONELS, PUR, PU FASCIAS, BUMPERS
PUR/PC PUR/PC ALLOY TEXIN BUMPERS
PVC POLYVINYL CHLORIDE APEX, GEON, VINYLITE BODY MOLDINGS, WIRE
INSULATION, STEERING
WHEELS
RIM REACTION INJECTED
MOLDED POLYURETHANERIM, BAYFLEX FRONT FASCIAS, MODULAR
WINDOWS
RRIM REINFORCED REACTION
INJECTED MOLDEDPUR, RRIM FASCIAS, BODY PANELS,
BODY TRIMS
TPE THERMO POLYETHYLENE TPE, HYTREL, BEXLOY-V FASCIAS, BUMPERS,
CLADDINGS
TPO THERMOPOLYOLEFIN POLYTROPE, RENFLEX,
SANTOPRENE, VISAFLEX,
ETA, APEX, TPO, SHIELDS,
CLADDINGSBUMPERS, END CAPS,
TELCAR, RUBBER, STRIPS,
SIGHT, INTERIOR B POST
TPP THERMO-POLYPROPYLENE TPP BUMPERS
TPU THERMOPOLYURETHANE,
POLYESTERTPU, HYTREL, TEXIN,
ESTANEBUMPERS, BODY SIDE,
MOLDINGS, FENDERS,
FASCIAS
PANEL SECTIONING
If it is required to section a large panel for a plastic
repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the panel. To
bond two plastic panels together, a reinforcement
must overlap both panels. The panels must be “V’d” at
a 20 degree angle. The area to be reinforced should
be washed, then sanded. Be sure to wipe off any
excess soap and water when finished. Lightly sand or
abrade the plastic with an abrasive pad or sandpaper.
Blow off any dust with compressed air or wipe with a
clean dry rag.
When bonding plastic panels, follow repair material
manufacturers recommendations. Be sure that enough
adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze out and
to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces have been
brought together, do not move them until the adhesive
is cured. The assembly can be held together with
clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun. After the parts have been
bonded and have had time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the final adhesive filler to the area being
repaired. Smooth the filler with a spreader, wooden tongue depressor, or squeegee. For fine texturing, a small
amount of water can be applied to the filler surface while smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as necessary
and, as a final step, cleanup can be done with soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry cloth allowing time
for the panel to dry before moving on with the repair.
VISUAL INSPECTION
Composite materials can mask the severity of an acci-
dent. Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of the
doors, and steel structures need to be inspected care-
fully to get a true damage assessment. Close inspec-
tion may require partial removal of interior trim or inner
panels.
Identify the type of repair: Puncture or Crack - Dam-
age that has penetrated completely through the panel.
Damage is confined to one general area; a panel sec-
tion is not required. However, a backer panel, open
fiberglass tape, or matted material must be bonded
from behind.
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or crushed, the damaged area must be removed from the panel to
achieve a successful repair. All spider web cracks leading away from a damaged area must be stopped or removed.
To stop a running crack in a panel, drill a 6 mm (0.250 in.) hole at the end of the crack farthest away from the
damage. If spider web cracks can not be stopped, the panel would require replacement. The surfaces around the
damaged area should be stripped of paint and freed from wax and oil. Scuff surfaces around repair area with 360
grit wet/dry sandpaper, or equivalent, to assure adhesion of repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
A panel that has extensive puncture type damage can
be repaired by cutting out the damaged material. Use
a suitable reciprocating saw or cut off wheel to remove
the section of the panel that is damaged. The piece
cut out can be used as a template to shape the new
patch. It is not necessary to have access to the back
of the panel to install a patch. Bevel edges of cutout
at 20 degrees to expose a larger bonding area on the
outer side. This will allow for an increased reinforce-
ment areas.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
1. Remove the radio antenna (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/AUDIO/ANTENNA BODY & CABLE -
REMOVAL).
2. Remove the battery tray (depending on fender
beingserviced)(Referto8-ELECTRICAL/BAT-
TERY SYSTEM/TRAY - REMOVAL).
3. Remove the cowl grille (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTE-
RIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the headlamp unit (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/HEADLAMP
UNIT - REMOVAL).
5. Remove the wheelhouse splash shield (Refer to 23
- BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL).
6. Remove the bolts (1, 2, 3, 5 and 6) that secure the
front fender (7) to body.
7. Carefully remove the front fender from the body
and remove the plastic inserts (4), if required.
INSTALLATION
1. If required, install new plastic inserts (4) into the
front fender (7).
2. Position the front fender onto the body and loosely
install all fender retaining bolts.
3. Align the front fender and add shims, if required
(Refer to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP
AND FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS).
4. Tighten the bolts (2 and 6) to 9 Nꞏm (80 in. lbs.).
5. Tighten the bolts (1, 3 and 5) to 12.5 Nꞏm (9 ft.
lbs.).
6. Install the wheelhouse splash shield (Refer to 23 -
BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLATION).
7. Install the headlamp unit (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/HEADLAMP
UNIT - INSTALLATION).
8. Install the cowl grille (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/COWL GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
9. Install the battery tray, if required (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/TRAY - INSTALLATION).
10. Install the antenna (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/AUDIO/ANTENNA BODY & CABLE - INSTALLATION).