2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 tow

5. Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase ventilation
(PCV) hose.
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
8. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
9. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
10. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
11. Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
12. Remove fuel rail.
13. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
14. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
15. Remove the heater hoses from the engine front cover and the heater core.
16. Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from intake manifold.
17. Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
REMOVAL).
18. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
19. Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Install intake manifold gaskets.
2. Install intake manifold.
3. Install intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in
sequence shown in to 12 Nꞏm (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
5. Install throttle body assembly.
6. Connect throttle cable and speed control cable to
throttle body.
7. Install fuel rail.
8. Install ignition coil towers.
9. Position and install heater hoses and tubes onto intake manifold.
10. Install the heater hoses to the heater core and engine front cover.
11. Connect electrical connectors for the following components:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
Ignition coil towers
Fuel injectors

able in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year thismaterial will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
GASKET MAKER
Mopar
Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when
squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for
use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR
GASKET SEALANT
Mopar
Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material isrecommended for sealing
threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts
under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layersteel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar
Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can
w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care but it’s easier than using precut gaskets.
Mopar
Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one
gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3
mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.)
drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant maybe removed with a shop towel. Com-
ponents should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both
surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can
be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can shouldbeusedonengineswithmulti-
layer steel gaskets.
REMOVAL
NOTE:Thisprocedureappliestoboththe4X2and4X4vehicles,stepsthatapply to the 4X4 vehicle only,
are identified.
1. Release fuel rail pressure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE) then
disconnect the fuel supply quick connect fitting at the fuel rail (Refer to14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
2. Disconnect the battery negative and positive cables.
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust manifolds.
5.4X4 vehiclesDisconnect axle vent tube from left side engine mount.
6. Remove the through bolt retaining nut and bolt from both the left and right side engine mounts.
7.4X4 vehiclesRemove locknut from left and right side engine mount brackets.
8. Disconnect two ground straps from the lower left hand side and one groundstrap from the lower right hand side
of the engine.

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the following components:
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -REMOVAL).
Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL) and
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block.Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation.Pistons and connecting rods
must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or caps,as damage to con-
necting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and shouldbe marked before removing
to ensure correct reassembly.
4. Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions
using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as
engine damage may occur.
5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod being
removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for eachpiston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crankshaft journals, as engine damage may occur
6. Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connecting rod to prevent
damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.
7. Carefully remove piston rings from piston(s), starting from the top ring down.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or connecting
rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating must not be damaged.
1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.

5. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore sur-
face with an raised “F” indicating installation posi-
tion (1). This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The con-
necting rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the
engine.
6. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine
oil.
7. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on
the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston
into cylinder bore and carefully position connecting
rod guides over crankshaft journal.
8. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer
handle. While at the same time, guide connecting
rodintopositiononrodjournal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
9. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten bolts to 27 Nꞏm(20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
10. Install the following components:
Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
Timing chain and cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTAL-
LATION).
Cylinderheadcovers(Referto9-ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN- INSTALLATION).
11. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to correct level.
12. Connect negative cable to battery.

Ring Position Groove Clearance Maximum Clearance
(Steel Rails) (.0007-.0090 in.) (0.010 in.)
Ring Position Ring Gap Wear Limit
Upper Ring 0.20-0.36 mm 0.43 mm
(0.0079-0.0142 in.) (0.0017 in.)
Intermediate Ring 0.37-0.63 mm 0.74 mm
(0.0146-0.0249 in.) (0.029 in.)
Oil Control Ring 0.025-0.76 mm 1.55 mm
(Steel Rail) (0.0099- 0.03 in.) (0.061 in.)
7. The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different
cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with
manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards
top of the piston.
NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following
order:
Oil ring expander.
Upper oil ring side rail.
Lower oil ring side rail.
No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
No. 1 Upper piston ring.
8. Install the oil ring expander.
9. Install upper side rail (1) by placing one end
between the piston ring groove and the expander
ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to
be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the lower side rail.
10. Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a pis-
ton ring installer.
11. Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston ring
installer.

Engine Lubrication Flow Chart—Block: Table 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1.Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2.Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head See Table 2
Right Cylinder Head See Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to thecylinder heads.
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart—Cylinder Heads: Table 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through headfrom rear to front) 1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sending unit (2) and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check
for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief
valve stuck open.

MANIFOLD - INTAKE
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite material and features long runners which maximizes low end torque.
The intake manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of eight individual press in place port gaskets to prevent
leaks. Eight studs and two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifoldvacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may
not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN ADIRECT LINE
WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
3. If a change in RPM is observed the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
5. Disconnect brake booster hose and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)hose.
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
8. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
9. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
10. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
11. Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
12. Remove fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - REMOVAL).
13. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
14. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).