2005 MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER brake light

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
DESCRIPTION
The graphic symbols illustrated in the following
International Control and Display Symbols Chart
(Fig. 1) are used to identify various instrument con-
trols. The symbols correspond to the controls and dis-
plays that are located on the instrument panel.
FASTENER IDENTIFICATION
DESCRIPTION
The SAE bolt strength grades range from grade 2
to grade 8. The higher the grade number, the greaterthe bolt strength. Identification is determined by the
line marks on the top of each bolt head. The actual
bolt strength grade corresponds to the number of line
marks plus 2. The most commonly used metric bolt
strength classes are 9.8 and 10.9. The metric
strength class identification number is imprinted on
the head of the bolt. The higher the class number,
the greater the bolt strength. Some metric nuts are
imprinted with a single-digit strength class on the
nut face. Refer to the Fastener Identification and
Fastener Strength Charts (Fig. 2) and (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 INTERNATIONAL CONTROL AND DISPLAY SYMBOLS
1 High Beam 13 Rear Window Washer
2 Fog Lamps 14 Fuel
3 Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps 15 Engine Coolant Temperature
4 Turn Warning 16 Battery Charging Condition
5 Hazard Warning 17 Engine Oil
6 Windshield Washer 18 Seat Belt
7 Windshield Wiper 19 Brake Failure
8 Windshield Wiper and Washer 20 Parking Brake
9 Windscreen Demisting and Defrosting 21 Front Hood
10 Ventilating Fan 22 Rear hood (Decklid)
11 Rear Window Defogger 23 Horn
12 Rear Window Wiper 24 Lighter
2 INTRODUCTIONVA

MAINTENANCE - WITH ASSYST MAINTENANCE
COMPUTER
ASSYST provides information on the best possible
timing for maintenance work.
NOTE: The engine manufacturer strongly recom-
mends the use of synthetic engine oils, such as
TMobil 1 SAE 0W-40.
When the next maintenance service is due, this
will be indicated in the multi-function display with
the wrench icon symbol displayed in km/miles or
days.
²One wrench icon showing indicates Oil Service
is necessary.
²Two wrench icons showing indicates Mainte-
nance Service is necessary ± displayed in km/miles or
days.
If the display shows the number of days, a clock
symbol will also appear in the multi-function display.
You should have the maintenance performed
within the stated period/distance.
The service indicator should be reset after an oil
service and/or maintenance service has been per-
formed.
REGULAR CHECK-UPS
To maintain the safe operation of the vehicle, it is
recommended that the following tasks be performed
on a regular basis (i.e. weekly or whenever the vehi-
cle is refueled). Check:
²Engine oil level
²Brake system, clutch mechanism ± fluid level
²Battery ± acid level
²Windshield washer system and headlamp clean-
ing system ± fluid level
²Mechanical assemblies (e. g. engine, transmis-
sion, etc.) ± check for leaks
²Condition of tires and tires pressures
²All exterior lights
SPECIAL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
If bodies built by manufacturers other than
DaimlerChrysler Corporation are fitted to the vehi-
cle, the maintenance requirements and lubrication
intervals specified by the body manufacturer must be
adhered to, in addition to all standard maintenance
requirements.
Brake Fluid
Only use brake fluids approved by the manufac-
turer (DOT 4 plus).
Coolant
Corrosion inhibitor/antifreeze concentration in the
coolant should be checked before the onset of winter
(once year in countries with high prevailing temper-
atures).Replace the coolant every five years or 100,000
miles.
Dust Filter for Heating/Ventilation Replace-
ment
The dust filter and the tailgate interior filter are to
be renewed during routine maintenance service. If
operating conditions are dusty, these filters should be
renewed more frequently.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE AND FILTER REPLACEMENT
At the minimum, change the engine oil and oil fil-
ter once a year ± even if the vehicle mileage per year
is extremely low. For standard oil service schedules
refer to the chapter oil service and maintenance ser-
vice.
Once a Year
Select the viscosity of the engine oil (SAE classes)
according to the outside air temperature.
Only use engine oil approved by DaimlerChrysler
Corporation if following the ASSYST system guide-
lines.
If the fuel used has a sulphur content exceeding
0.05% by weight, the service intervals should be split
in half.
SCOPE OF WORK FOR MAINTENANCE SERVICE
Oil Service
²Engine:
Oil change and filter replacement
Check fluid levels of the following system,
refill as necessary.
²If fluid is lost, trace and eliminate cause ± as a
separate order.
²Power-assisted steering
Lubrication work:
²Trailer tow hitch (original equipment)
Maintenance
²ASSYST maintenance computer reset
Function check
²Signalling system, warning and indicator lamps
²Headlamps, exterior lighting
²Windshield wipers, windshield washer system
Check for leaks and damage.
²Check for abrasion points and ensure that lines
are correctly routed!
²All lines and hoses, sensor cables
²Rubber boots on front axle drive shafts, rubber
boots on front axle suspension ball joints, shock
absorbers
Check fluid levels for the following systems,
correct as necessary.
NOTE: Should there be a loss of fluid which cannot
be explained by regular use, trace and eliminate the
cause.
0 - 8 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEVA
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch
noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion
bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise
is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearingsproduce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listenfor the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAIN AND FILL
NOTE: Drain oil when warm.
(1) Clean area around oil fill plug and drain plug.
(2) Remove oil drain plug and drain oil (Fig. 1).
(3) Install oil drain plug and tighten to N´m 100
(74 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove oil fill plug and fill housing up to bot-
tom edge of oil fill hole (Fig. 1).
(5) Install oil fill plug and tighten to N´m 100 (74
ft. lbs.).
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the axle
and secure axle to device.
(3) Remove wheels and tires.
(4) Unplug wear indicator cable (Fig. 2) and (Fig.
3).
(5) Detach cable connector for brake pad wear
indicator.
(6) Remove ABS sensor and clamp bushing from
mounting bore.
NOTE: The right-hand ABS sensor cable is labeled
at the factory with a white tag.
(7) Remove cable ties from the park brake cables.
Release connection cable of brake pad wear indicator
and ABS sensor cable up to the relay unit of the
parking brake.
(8) Remove brake cables from adjuster.
(9) Remove brake calipers with adapters and lines.
Fig. 1 FILL PLUG
1 - FILL PLUG
2 - DRAIN PLUG
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 11
REAR AXLE (Continued)

ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE and DOT 4 standards only. Use
fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(8) Raise the vehicle and adjust the ALB controller
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ALB CONTROLLER - ADJUSTMENTS).
(9) Lower the vehicle and test drive.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Clean any debris away from the test ports caps
at the ALB controller.
(2) Connect brake adapters special tool 9297 to the
test ports at the ALB controller.
(3) Install a Pressure Gauge, Special Tool
C-4007-A, to the adapters.
(4) Tighten all tube nut fittings to 17 N´m (145 in.
lbs.) torque.
(5) Bleed any air out of the system. This includes
bleeding the air from the hose between the pressure
test fitting and pressure gauge, which is done at the
pressure gauge.
NOTE: Adjustment is determined for the automatic
load-dependent brake power control system accord-
ing to the ALB plate. This is housed in the stowage
compartment under the front passenger's door
panel. The part number of the rear spring is
stamped into the spring eye. This must correspond
to the part number of the rear spring on the ALB
plate.
(6) To accurately adjust the rear axle load you
must first determine the rear axle load by weighing
the vehicle at a local scale.
(7) Install the brake pedal winch Special tool 9296
between the brake pedal and the driver seat and
slowly turn the dial until the specified inlet brake
pressure is indicated at the gauge.
NOTE: The pressure gauge, connected at the ALB
controller must indicate the outlet pressure which
is assigned on the ALB plate to the rear axle load
determined.
NOTE: If the rear axle load determined is between
two figures indicated on the ALB plate, the outlet
pressure should be determined accordingly.
(8) If the pressure measured differs from the spec-
ification, adjust the ALB controller (Fig. 16).
(9) Loosen the brake pedal winch.
(10) Adjust the outlet pressure by turning the
adjusting nut (Fig. 16)To increase pressure -
tighten the adjusting nut. To reduce pressure -
loosen the adjusting nut.(11) After adjustment reinstall the brake pedal
winch and recheck the pressures and readjust if
needed.
(12) Tighten the lock adjusting nut.
MASTER CYLINDER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
Fig. 16 ALB CONTROLLER ADJUSTER NUT
1 - ALB ADJUSTER NUT
2 - SPRING
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEVA
ALB CONTROLLER (Continued)

(7) Remove the adjuster (Fig. 37).
(8) Remove the pressure springs (Fig. 37). by
depressing with your fingers and twisting.
(9) Remove the rear park brake shoes (Fig. 37).
Pull the park brake shoes apart at the bottom
and remove them together with the adjuster.
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
Clean the individual brake components, including
the support plate exterior, with a water dampened
cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not use any other
cleaning agents. Remove light rust and scale from
the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate
with fine sandpaper.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW)
NOTE: Preassemble the retracting spring with the
short hook eye from the inside together with the
adjuster wheel at the bottom. Fit the preassembled
park brake shoes on the brake carrier.
(1)Ensure that the cable lock moves easily
before installing shoes.Install the park brake
shoes.(2) Install the lower retracting spring using special
tool 9280.
(3) Install the hold down springs using special tool
9281.
(4) Install the upper retracting spring using spe-
cial tool 9280.
(5) Install the adjuster.
(6) Install the front park brake cable to the pulley
unit.
(7) Install the disc brake rotor.
(8) Install the rear wheels.
(9) Adjust the parking brakes.
(10) Lower the vehicle.
(11) Pump the brake pedal several times to check
the operation of the brakes before moving vehicle.
INSTALLATION - (DRW)
NOTE: Preassemble the retracting spring with the
short hook eye from the inside together with the
adjuster wheel at the bottom. Fit the preassembled
park brake shoes on the brake carrier.
(1)Ensure that the cable lock moves easily
before installing shoes.Install the park brake
shoes.
(2) Install the lower retracting spring.
(3) Install the pressure hold down springs by
depressing with your fingers and twisting to lock in
place.
(4) Install the upper retracting spring.
(5) Install the adjuster.
(6) Install the front park brake cable to the pulley
unit.
(7) Install the disc brake rotor.
(8) Install the rear wheel flange ring. Tighten to
200 N´m (148 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the rear wheels.
(10) Adjust the parking brakes.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Pump the brake pedal several times to check
the operation of the brakes before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheels.
(3) Turn the adjusting wheel through the hole of
the wheel lug bolt until it is no longer possible to
rotate the rear wheel (Fig. 38).
Fig. 37 PARK BRAKE SHOES WITH DUAL REAR
WHEELS
1 - HOLD DOWN PIN
2 - PRESSURE SPRING
3 - ADJUSTER
4 - UPPER RETRACTING SPRING
5 - LOWER RETRACTING SPRING
6 - CABLE LOCK
7 - LOCKING PIN
8 - BRAKE CABLE
9 - PARK BRAKE SHOE
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
SHOES (Continued)

(4) Loosen the adjusting wheel 3-4 teeth divisions
(Fig. 38).(5) Inspect the clearance, or a slight drag when
rotating the wheel/rear disc brake rotor (Fig. 39).
(6) Install rear wheels.
(7) Lower the vehicle and test the park brake sys-
tem to hold the vehicle.
Fig. 38 STAR WHEEL ADJUSTER
1 - LEFT HAND PARK BRAKE SHOES APPLIED
2 - RIGHT HAND PARK BRAKE SHOES RELEASED
3 - FLAT BLADED TOOL
Fig. 39 ADJUSTING REAR PARK BRAKE SHOES
1 - FRONT BRAKE CABLE
2 - SHOE ADJUSTER
3 - REAR BRAKE CABLES
4 - PARK BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTER
5 - 28 BRAKES - BASEVA
SHOES (Continued)