Injector opens (start of injection)
The solenoid valve is energized with the pickup
current which serves to ensure that it open quickly.
The force exerted by the triggered solenoid now
exceeds that of the valve spring and the armature
opens the bleed orifice. Almost immediately, the high-level pick-up current is reduced to the lower holding
current required for the electromagnet. This is possi-
ble due to the magnetic circuit's air gap now being
smaller. When the bleed orifice opens, fuel can flow
from the valve control chamber into the cavity situ-
ated above it, and from there via the fuel return to
the tank. The bleed orifice prevents complete pres-
sure balance, and the pressure in the valve control
chamber sinks as a result. This leads to the pressure
in the valve-control chamber being lower than that in
the nozzle's chamber volume which is still at the
same pressure level as the rail. The reduced pressure
in the valve-control chamber causes a reduction in
the force exerted on the control plunger, the nozzle
needle open as a result, and injection starts (Fig. 2).
Injector opens fully
The control plunger reaches its upper stop where it
remains supported by a cushion of fuel which is gen-
erated by the flow of fuel between the bleed and feed
orifices. The injector nozzle has now opened fully,
and the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber
at a pressure almost equal to that in the fuel rail
(Fig. 2).
Injector closes (end of injection)
As soon as the solenoid valve is no longer trig-
gered, the valve spring forces the armature down-
wards and the ball closes the bleed orifice. The
armature is a 2±piece design. Here, although the
armature plate is guided by a driver shoulder in its
downward movement, it can ªoverspringº with the
return spring so that it exerts no downwards-acting
forces on the armature and the ball. The closing of
the bleed orifice lead to pressure build up in the con-
trol chamber via the input from the feed orifice. This
pressure is the same as that in the rail and exerts an
increased force on the control plunger through its
end face. This force, together with that of the spring,
now exceeds the force exerted by the chamber volume
and the nozzle needle closes. Injection ceases as soon
as the nozzle needle comes up against its bottom stop
again (Fig. 2).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
COVER - REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect injector electrical connector.
(4) Remove fuel return line from injector (Fig. 3).
(5) Remove fuel injector high pressure line (Fig. 3).
(6) Remove fuel injector retainer and retaining
bolt (Fig. 3).
(7) Remove fuel injector from cylinder head (Fig.
3).
Fig. 2 INJECTOR COMPONENTS
1 - INJECTOR CLOSED (AT-REST STATUS)
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
3 - TRIGGERING ELEMENT (SOLENOID VALVE)
4 - FUEL INLET (HIGH PRESSURE) FROM THE RAIL
5 - VALVE BALL
6 - BLEED ORIFICE
7 - FEED ORIFICE
8 - VALVE CONTROL CHAMBER
9 - VALVE CONTROL PLUNGER
10 - FEED PASSAGE TO THE NOZZLE
11 - NOZZLE NEEDLE
RGFUEL INJECTION14a-11
FUEL INJECTOR (Continued)
SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
WARNING: POWER STEERING FLUID, ENGINE
PARTS AND EXHAUST SYSTEM MAY BE
EXTREMELY HOT IF ENGINE HAS BEEN RUNNING.
DO NOT START ENGINE WITH ANY LOOSE OR DIS-
CONNECTED HOSES. DO NOT ALLOW HOSES TO
TOUCH HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR CATALYST.
WARNING: FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED
WITH THE ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT PERSONAL
INJURY FROM MOVING PARTS.
CAUTION: When the system is open, cap all open
ends of the hoses, power steering pump fittings or
power steering gear ports to prevent entry of for-
eign material into the components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER STEERING
PUMP INITIAL OPERATION
CAUTION: The fluid level should be checked with
engine off to prevent injury from moving compo-
nents. Use only MoparTPower Steering Fluid (MS-
5931) or approved equivalent. Do not overfill.
Read the fluid level through the side of the power
steering fluid reservoir. The fluid level should indi-
cateªFILL RANGEºwhen the fluid is at a temper-
ature of approximately 21ÉC to 27ÉC (70ÉF to 80ÉF).
(1) Wipe the filler cap and area clean, then remove
the cap.
(2) Fill the fluid reservoir to the proper level and
let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds,
then turn the engine off.
(4) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above steps
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
(5) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(6) Start the engine.
(7) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops.
(8) Add fluid if necessary.
(9) Lower the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock-to-lock.
(10) Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and
refill as required.
(11) If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehi-
cle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat the above
procedure.
REMOVAL - PUMP (2.4L ENGINE)
(1) Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the
battery and isolate cable.
(2) Remove the cap from the power steering fluid
reservoir.
(3) Using a siphon pump, remove as much power
steering fluid as possible from the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(4) Raise the vehicle on jack stands or centered on
a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance.
(5) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness at the rear engine
mount bracket.
NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed
from the engine to allow for an area to remove the
power steering pump from the vehicle.
(6) Remove the four bolts and flag nuts securing
the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold
(Fig. 3).
(7) Disconnect all the exhaust system isolators/
hangers from the brackets on the exhaust system (2
at the mufflers and 1 at the resonator) (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the exhaust system by moving it as far
rearward, then lowering the front below the cross-
member and out of the vehicle.
(9) Remove the power steering fluid supply hose
from the fitting on the power steering pump. Drain
off excess power steering fluid from hose.
Fig. 3 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
RSPUMP19-25
PUMP (Continued)
(5) Low line pressure in all positions indicates a
defective pump, a clogged filter, or a stuck pressure
regulator valve.
GOVERNOR PRESSURE
Test only if transaxle shifts at wrong vehicle
speeds when throttle cable is correctly adjusted.
(1) Connect a 100 psi gauge to governor pressure
port. It is located at lower right side of case, below
differential cover (Fig. 2).
(2) Operate transaxle in third gear to read pres-
sures. The governor pressure should respond
smoothly to changes in mph and should return to 0
to 3 psi when vehicle is stopped. High pressure
(above 3 psi) at standstill will prevent the transaxle
from downshifting.
THROTTLE PRESSURE
No gauge port is provided for throttle pressure.
Incorrect throttle pressure should be suspected if
part throttle upshift speeds are either delayed or
occur too early in relation to vehicle speed. Engine
runaway on shifts can also be an indicator of low
throttle pressure setting, or misadjusted throttle
cable.
In no case should throttle pressure be adjusted
until the transaxle throttle cable adjustment has
been verified to be correct.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TORQUE
CONVERTER HOUSING FLUID LEAKAGE
When diagnosing converter housing fluid leaks,
three actions must be taken before repair:
(1) Verify proper transmission fluid level.
(2) Verify that the leak originates from the con-
verter housing area and is transmission fluid.
(3) Determine the true source of the leak.
Fluid leakage at or around the torque converter
area may originate from an engine oil leak (Fig. 3).
The area should be examined closely. Factory fill
fluid is red and, therefore, can be distinguished from
engine oil.
Some suspected converter housing fluid leaks may
not be leaks at all. They may only be the result of
residual fluid in the converter housing, or excess
fluid spilled during factory fill, or fill after repair.
Converter housing leaks have several potential
sources. Through careful observation, a leak source
can be identified before removing the transmission
for repair.
Pump seal leaks tend to move along the drive hub
and onto the rear of the converter (Fig. 3). Pump
o-ring or pump body leaks follow the same path as a
seal leak. Pump attaching bolt leaks are generally
deposited on the inside of the converter housing and
not on the converter itself. Pump seal or gasket leaksusually travel down the inside of the converter hous-
ing (Fig. 3).
TORQUE CONVERTER LEAKAGE
Possible sources of torque converter leakage are:
²Torque converter weld leaks at the outside diam-
eter weld (Fig. 4).
²Torque converter hub weld (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 Converter Housing Leak Paths
1 - PUMP SEAL
2 - PUMP VENT
3 - PUMP BOLT
4 - PUMP GASKET
5 - CONVERTER HOUSING
6 - CONVERTER
7 - REAR MAIN SEAL LEAK
Fig. 4 Converter Leak PointsÐTypical
1 - OUTSIDE DIAMETER WELD
2 - TORQUE CONVERTER HUB WELD
3 - STARTER RING GEAR
4 - LUG
21 - 34 AUTOMATIC - 31THRS
AUTOMATIC - 31TH (Continued)
OPERATION
The Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI)
Solenoid prevents the transmission shift lever from
being moved out of PARK (P) unless the brake pedal
is applied. The BTSI solenoid is hardwired to and
controlled by the Intelligent Power Module (IPM).
Battery voltage is applied to one side of the solenoid
with the ignition key is in either the ON/RUN or
START positions (Fig. 211). The ground side of the
solenoid is controlled by a driver within the IPM. It
relies on voltage supplied from the stop lamp switch
to the stop lamp sense circuit within the IPM to tell
when the brake pedal is depressed. When the brake
pedal is depressed, the ground circuit opens, de-ener-
gizing the solenoid. When the brake pedal is
released, the ground circuit is closed, energizing the
solenoid.
When the ignition key is in either the ON/RUN or
START positions, the BTSI solenoid is energized, and
the solenoid plunger hook pulls the shift lever pawl
into position, prohibiting the shift lever from moving
out of PARK (P) (Fig. 212). When the brake pedal is
depressed, the ground circuit opens, de-energizing
the solenoid. This moves the gearshift lever pawl out
of the way (Fig. 213), allowing the shift lever to be
moved into any gear position.
Fig. 210 Solenoid Plunger and Return Spring
1 - PLUNGER
2 - RETURN SPRING
3 - BTSI SOLENOID
Fig. 211 Ignition Key/Switch Positions
1 - ACC
2 - LOCK
3 - OFF
4 - ON/RUN
5-START
Fig. 212 Pawl Engaged to Shift Lever
1 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER
2 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER PAWL
21 - 114 AUTOMATIC - 31THRS
SHIFT INTERLOCK SOLENOID (Continued)
OPERATION
The Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI)
Solenoid prevents the transmission shift lever from
being moved out of PARK (P) unless the brake pedal
is applied. The BTSI solenoid is hardwired to and
controlled by the Intelligent Power Module (IPM).
Battery voltage is applied to one side of the solenoid
with the ignition key is in either the ON/RUN or
START positions (Fig. 306). The ground side of the
solenoid is controlled by a driver within the IPM. It
relies on voltage supplied from the stop lamp switch
to the stop lamp sense circuit within the IPM to tell
when the brake pedal is depressed. When the brake
pedal is depressed, the ground circuit opens, de-ener-
gizing the solenoid. When the brake pedal is
released, the ground circuit is closed, energizing the
solenoid.
When the ignition key is in either the ON/RUN or
START positions, the BTSI solenoid is energized, and
the solenoid plunger hook pulls the shift lever pawl
into position, prohibiting the shift lever from moving
out of PARK (P) (Fig. 307). When the brake pedal is
depressed, the ground circuit opens, de-energizing
the solenoid. This moves the gearshift lever pawl out
of the way (Fig. 308), allowing the shift lever to be
moved into any gear position.
A conventional mechanical interlock system is also
used. This system manually prohibits shifter move-
ment when the ignition switch is in the LOCK or
ACC positions. Solenoid operation is not required in
these key positions. When the ignition key is in the
OFF position, the gearshift lever is unrestricted, and
able to move into any gear position (during towing,
dead battery, etc.).
Fig. 306 Ignition Key/Switch Positions
1 - ACC
2 - LOCK
3 - OFF
4 - ON/RUN
5-START
Fig. 307 Pawl Engaged to Shift Lever
1 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER
2 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER PAWL
Fig. 308 Pawl Disengaged From Shift Lever
1 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER
2 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER PAWL
RSAUTOMATIC - 41TE21 - 273
SHIFT INTERLOCK SOLENOID (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMMON
PROBLEM CAUSES
The majority of transaxle malfunctions are a result
of:
²Insufficient lubrication
²Incorrect lubricant
²Misassembled or damaged internal components
²Improper operation
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting may be caused by a misadjusted
crossover cable. If hard shifting is accompanied by
gear clash, synchronizer clutch and stop rings or gear
teeth may be worn or damaged.
Hard shifting may also be caused by a binding or
broken shift cover mechanism. Remove shift cover
and verify smooth operation. Replace as necessary.
Misassembled synchronizer components also cause
shifting problems. Incorrectly installed synchronizer
sleeves, keys, balls, or springs can cause shift prob-
lems.
NOISY OPERATION
Transaxle noise is most often a result of worn or
damaged components. Chipped, broken gear or syn-
chronizer teeth, and brinnelled, spalled bearings all
cause noise.
Abnormal wear and damage to the internal compo-
nents is frequently the end result of insufficient
lubricant.
SLIPS OUT OF GEAR
Transaxle disengagement may be caused by mis-
aligned or damaged shift components, or worn teeth
on the drive gears or synchronizer components. Incor-
rect assembly also causes gear disengagement. Check
for missing snap rings.
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
Insufficient transaxle lubricant is usually the
result of leaks, or inaccurate fluid level check or refill
method. Leakage is evident by the presence of oil
around the leak point. If leakage is not evident, the
condition is probably the result of an underfill.
If air±powered lubrication equipment is used to fill
a transaxle, be sure the equipment is properly cali-
brated. Equipment out of calibration can lead to an
underfill condition.
CLUTCH PROBLEMS
Worn, damaged, or misaligned clutch components
can cause difficult shifting, gear clash, and noise.
A worn or damaged clutch disc, pressure plate, or
release bearing can cause hard shifting and gear
clash.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 2.4L GAS
(1) Raise hood.
(2) Disconnect gearshift cables from shift levers/
cover assembly (Fig. 10).
(3) Remove gearshift cable retaining clips from
mounting bracket (Fig. 10). Remove cables and
secure out of way.
(4) Remove three (3) right engine mount bracket-
to-transaxle bolts (Fig. 11).
(5) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(6) Remove front wheel/tires and halfshafts.
(7) Drain transaxle fluid into suitable container.
(8) Remove cradle plate.
(9) Remove front harness retainer and secure har-
ness out of way.
(10) Remove clutch release access cover.
(11)RHD Models:Using Tool 6638A, disconnect
clutch hydraulic circuit quick connect (located on
slave cylinder tube). Remove clutch slave cylinder by
depressing towards case and rotating counter-clock-
wise 60É, while lifting anti-rotation tab out of case
slot with screwdriver (Fig. 12).LHD Models:
Remove clutch release cable by pulling outward on
cable housing, then forward to allow cable core to
pass through case slot (Fig. 13). Disengage T-end
from release lever and secure cable out of way.
(12) Remove engine left mount bracket.
(13) Remove starter motor (Fig. 14).
Fig. 10 Gearshift Cables at Transaxle
1 - SELECTOR CABLE
2 - CABLE RETAINER
3 - CABLE RETAINER
4 - CROSSOVER CABLE
5 - MOUNT BRACKET
RGT850 MANUAL TRANSAXLE21a-11
T850 MANUAL TRANSAXLE (Continued)
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop lightover the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
RSBODY23-3
BODY (Continued)
MANUAL TEMPERATURE CONTROL
The front blower speed must be set to High and
the evaporator temperature sensor must be greater
than 55É F or the test will fail immediately. The test
is activated by depressing the A/C and PWR buttons
simultaneously and holding them depressed for no
less than five seconds. The PWR and A/C LEDs will
blink on and off until the test is complete. If the
LEDs stop blinking after two minutes, then the cool
down test has been completed successfully. If the two
minutes expire without the evaporator temperature
reaching 20É F less than the outside air temperature,
then the cool down test has been failed and further
A/C system diagnosis is required. If the test is failed,
the LEDs will continue to blink across ignition cycles
until the vehicle has been driven for greater than (3
miles).
AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL
The outside air temperature shown in the ATC dis-
play must not be lower than 53É F or the test will not
begin. The ambient air temperature in the room
where the vehicle will be tested must be a minimum
of 21É C (70ÉF) for this test.The test is activated by
depressing the A/C and PWR buttons simultaneously
and holding them depressed for no less than four sec-
onds. The snowflake icon and the DELAY text in the
ATC display will blink on and off alternately until
the test is complete. If the snowflake icon and the
DELAY text stop blinking after two minutes, then
the cool down test has been completed successfully. If
the two minutes expire without the evaporator tem-
perature reaching 20É F less than the evaporator ini-
tial temperature, then the cool down test has been
failed and further A/C system diagnosis is required.
If the test is failed, the snowflake icon and the
DELAY text will continue to blink across ignition
cycles until the vehicle has been driven for greater
than (3 miles).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C
PERFORMANCE TEST
An air conditioning performance test is the best
way to determine whether the system is performing
up to standard. This test also provides valuable clues
as to the possible cause of trouble with the air con-
ditioning system. The ambient air temperature in the
location where the vehicle will be tested must be a
minimum of 21É C (70ÉF) for this test.
WARNING: REFER TO THE APPLICABLE WARN-
INGS AND CAUTIONS FOR THIS SYSTEM BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT - WARNING - A/C PLUMBING)
and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT - CAUTION - A/C PLUMBING).
NOTE: When connecting the service equipment
coupling to the line fitting, verify that the valve of
the coupling is fully closed. This will reduce the
amount of effort required to make the connection.
(1) Connect a tachometer to monitor the engine
speed.
(2) Remove the caps from the refrigerant system
service ports and attach a manifold gauge set to
monitor the refrigerant system pressures.
(3) Set the heater-air conditioner controls so that
the compressor is engaged, the air within the vehicle
is being recirculated, the output air is directed
through the panel outlets, the temperature control is
in the full cool position, and the blower motor is oper-
ating at its highest speed.
(4) Start the engine and allow the engine to oper-
ate for about five minutes or until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Then hold the engine speed
at 1000 rpm with the compressor clutch engaged. If
the compressor clutch does not engage, proceed with
diagnosis of the compressor clutch coil. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS -
FRONT/COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
(5) Close all the vehicle windows and doors.
(6) Insert a thermometer in the left center panel
outlet and operate the engine for five minutes.
(7) With the compressor clutch engaged, record the
left center panel outlet discharge air temperature,
the discharge pressure (high side service port), and
the suction pressure (low side service port). The com-
pressor clutch may cycle, depending upon the ambi-
ent temperature and humidity. If the clutch cycles,
use the readings obtained before the clutch disen-
gaged.
(8) Compare the discharge air temperature read-
ing to the Performance Temperature and Pressure
chart. If the temperature reading is high, check the
refrigerant system for leaks and proper refrigerant
charge level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGERANT -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM LEAKS) and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGER-
ANT - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REFRIGER-
ANT SYSTEM CHARGE LEVEL).
RSHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING24-5
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)