1998 ISUZU TROOPER light

3D – 14 REAR SUSPENSION; COIL SPRING
INSTALLATION
3. Lateral Rod
Make sure that the lateral rod is in its correct position.
NOTE:
When mounting lateral rod, be sure not to use grease
on bushings or any other nearby part.
2. Bolt and Nut
NOTE:
Tighten the bolt and nut lightly, and retighten to the
specified torque after the vehicle is at curb height.
Lateral Rod Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
137 (14.0 / 101)
1. Nut and Washer
NOTE:
Tighten the nut lightly, and retighten to the specified
torque after the vehicle is at curb height.
Lateral Rod Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
78 (8.0 / 58)

3E – 4 WHEELS AND TIRES
TIRES
REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric size
should be used. Most metric tire sizes do not have exact
corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended
that new tires be installed in pairs on the same axle. If
necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with
tire having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION:
Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and
bias-belted tires except in emergencies, because vehicle
handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss
of control.
TIRE MOUNTING
Remove valve cap on valve stem and deflate the tire.
Then use a tire changing machine to mount or dismount
tires.
Follow the equipment manufacturer’s instruction. Do not
use hand tools or tire lever alone to change tires as they
may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
TIRE DISMOUNTING
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or
coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and light rust.
Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well
lubricated with an approved tire lubricant.
After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that
beads are completely seated. Inflate the air to specified
pressure and install valve cap to the stem
WARNING:
NEVER STAND OVER TIRE WHEN INFLATING. BEAD MAY
BREAK WHEN BEAD SNAPS OVER RIM’S SAFETY HUMP
AND CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
NEVER EXCEED 240 kPa (35 psi) PRESSURE WHEN
INFLATING. IF 240 kPa (35 psi) PRESSURE WILL NOT
SEAT BEADS, DEFLATE, RE-LUBRICATE AND RE-INFLATE.
OVER INFLATION MAY CAUSE THE BEAD TO BREAK AND
CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
TIRE REPAIR
There are many different materials on the market used to
repair tires.
Manufacturers have published detailed instructions on
how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be
obtained from the tire manufacturer if they are not
included with the repair kit.
UNIT REPAIR

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±27

Pressure ring
425RS057
Legend
(3) Sliding surface with the friction disc. When
nicks or scratches are found, polish with an oil
stone and repair on a level block using a
compound.
(4) Sliding spherical surface with the pinion gear.
(5) Sliding surface with the side gear.
(6) V±shaped groove of the pressure ring and V
±shaped section of the pinion shaft.
(7) Fitting section with the case.
(8) Face contacting the inner surface of the
differential case. Repair burrs and nicks using
an oil stone.

Thrust washer
425RS058
Legend
(9) Sliding surface with the side gear or case.
(10) Peripheral groove of the side gear.
Repair light nicks and burrs using an oil stone.

Case
425RS059
Legend
(11) Contact surface with the spring disc.
(12) Inner groove of the differential cage B.
Repair light nicks and burrs using an oil stone.
425RS060

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2B±24DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4. Remove Differential shaft (2) using hammer and
punch.
Place shop towel behind case to prevent differential
shaft from dropping out of case.
425RW005
5. Assemble clutch pack unloading tool
5±8840±2586±0 .
a. Install cap (1) to the bottom differential side gear.
b. Install threaded screw cap (2) to top differential
side gear. Thread forcing screws (3) into threaded
screw cap until it becomes centered into the
bottom cap.
425RW064
c. Tighten forcing screw until tight enough to collapse
dished spacers and allow looseness between side
and pinion mate gears.6. Both pinion mate gear thrust washers using a shim
stock (1) of 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) or equivalent tool to
push out washers.
425RW007
7. Relieve tension of dished spacers by loosening
forcing screw.
NOTE:

You may have to adjust the forcing screw slightly to
allow the case to rotate.
8. Insert differential shaft into its hole of case. Pull on
shaft and rotate case until pinion mate gears can be
removed.
9. Remove pinion mate gears.
10. Hold side gear top clutch pack (1) with one hand and
remove positraction unloading tools.
425RW008

4B1±25 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Diagnosis of the Faults Based on the
Status of 4WD Indicator Lamp, 4WD
Switch and T/F Change Lever
Diagnosis charts are shown on below. If troubles can not
be solved after every chart was traced, troubles may
occur in the 4WD control unit. In this case, replace the
4WD control unit and trace every chart again.
Fault on switching from 2WD to 4WD
1.In case that 4WD indicator's blinking changes
from 2Hz to 4Hz after Solution 1 is carried out.
Faults occur in the motor actuator or the transfer case
assembly. Remove the motor actuator and check
function. If problem was found and it was repaired, try
Solution 1 again. After that, disassemble the
transfer case assembly for check and repair or
replace. If incident is not improved after above
mentioned actions were taken, replace the 4WD
control unit.
2.In case that 4WD indicator does not blink nor
light, when switching from 2WD to 4WD.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Is ignition turned on?
Go to Step 2
Turn on the
ignition and trace
this chart from
start.
2
Does the indicator light comes on when the engine is not started?
Go to Step 3
Burning out of
indicator lamp or
disconnection of
harness wire.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
3Start the engine.
Is the 4WD switch turned from 2WD to 4WD?Short-circuit
(body short) on
harness of the
4WD switch.
Fault of the 4WD
switch (holding
the closed
condition).
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Push the 4WD
switch to 4WD.

4B1±30
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Front Axle Diagnosis

When the 4WD switch is operated from 4H to 2H,
indicator light does not go out.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Drive slow 100 Ð 200m after a few minutesº idling.
Has indicator light gone out?
All right.Go to Step 2
2Jack up front tires.
Does the right side of front wheel rotate when the left side of front
wheel is rotated?
Go to Step 4Go to Step 3
31. Check the actuator switch.
2. Check the circuit to indicator.
Was a problem found?
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Disassemble axle
ASM for check.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
41. Check the VSV valve.
2. Check the circuit to VSV valve.
Was a problem found?Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Go to Step 5
5Is vacuum piping all right? (tank, hose, & pipe damage or trouble)
Go to Step 6
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
6Does actuator work all right?
Trace this chart
from the start.
Disassemble axle
ASM for check.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.