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Tempera A, B, c
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability
to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions
on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the
material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and
excessive temperature can lead
to sudden tire failure.
The grade
C corresponds to a level of performance
which
all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades
B and A represent higher levels of performance on the
laboratory test wheel than the minimum required
by law.
--
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory
to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance,
In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels
aligned again. However, if
you notice unusual tire wear
or
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the
alignment may need
to be reset. If you notice your
vehicle vibrating when driving
on a smooth road, your
wheels may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded.
If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel,
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced.
If the
wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your
GM dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any
of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new
GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure
to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
I
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you
lose. control.
You could have a collision in which
you or others could be injured. Always use the
correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for
replacement.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire
chain clearance to the body and chassis.
7
Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced
on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel
nut torque after
100,
1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque”
in
the Index.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for
more information.
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Used Replacement Wheels Tire Chains
1
-- 4
Putting a used wheel .on your vehicle is dangerous.
You can’t know how it’s been used or how many
miles it’s been driven.
It could fail suddenly and
cause an accident.
If you have to replace a wheel,
use a new
GM original equipment wheel.
NOTICE:
If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265/75R16
size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage
your vehicle.
If you don’t have dual wheels or if you have a tire
size other than P265/75R16, use tire chains only
where legal and only when you must. Use chains
that are the proper size for your tires. Install
them on the tires of the rear axle.
Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle.
Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends
,
securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions.
If you can. hear the
chains ‘contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them.
If the contact continues, slow dawn until it
stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on
will damage your vehicle.
4
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Appear nce CT-e
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some
are toxic. Others can burst into
flame if you strike a
match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are
dangerous if
you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
When you use anything from’ a container
to clean your
vehicle, be sure
to follow the manufacturer’s warnings
and instructions. And always open your doors or
windows
when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
0 Gasoline
0 Benzene
0 Naphtha
Carbon Tetrachloride
0 Acetone
0 Paint Thinner
0 Turpentine
0 Lacquer Thinner
0 Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
-- some more than
others
-- and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use
any of these unless this manual says
you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
0 Alcohol
Laundry Soap
Bleach
0 Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose
dirt. Wipe
vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth.
Your
GM dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type
spot lifter and
a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will
clean normal spots and stains very well.
Do not use
them
on vinyl or leather.
Here are some cleaning tips:
0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
0 Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.
0 Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area
0 Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area
often.
A
soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
only. If you use them, don’t saturate
the stained area.
If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire
area immediately or it
will set.
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Using Foam-Type Cleaner T I ~. ~. .
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose
dirt.
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Ma *
3. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following
surrounding
trim along stitch or welt lines.
the directions on the container label.
4. Use suds only and apply with
a clean sponge.
5. Don’t saturate the material.
6. Don’t rub it roughly.
7. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge
to remove the suds.
8. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge.
9. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper
towel or cloth.
10. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer.
Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric
First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all.
Some spots and stains will clean off better with just
water and mild soap.
If you need to use a solvent:
Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with
a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner,
light pressure and clean cloths (preferably
cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of
the stain, “feathering” toward
the center. Keep
changing to a clean section
of the cloth.
When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately
dry the area
with a blow dryer to help prevent a
cleaning ring.
Fabric Protection
Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been
treated with Scotchgard’” Fabric Protector, a
3M
product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water,
which are the carriers
of most stains. Even with this
protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and
carpet often to keep
it looking new.
11. Wipe with a clean cloth.
Further information
on cleaning is available by calling
1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-61 67).
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Special Cleaning Problems
Greasy or Oily Stains
Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe
polish, coffee
with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic
creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can
be removed
as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
2. Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier.
3. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if
left on a vehicle’s seat fabric. They should be removed
as soon
as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner
will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.
Non-Greasy Stains
Stains caused by catsup, coffee (.black), egg, fruit, fruit
juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can
be removed
as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the
soiled area with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions
described earlier.
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat
the area with
a waterhaking soda solution:
I teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml)
of lukewarm water.
4. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.
Combination Stains
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili
sauce and
unknown stains can be removed as follows:
0 Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with
cool water and allow to dry.
0 If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.
Cleaning Vinyl
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You
may have to do it more than once.
Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if
you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and
a GM VinyVLeather Cleaner or equivalent product.
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Cleaning Leather
Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or
saddle
soap.
For stubborn stains, use a GM VinyVLeather Cleaner
or equivalent product.
Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive
cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish
on leather.
Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If
dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm
the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfxes
of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or
waxes
may cause annoying reflections in the windshield
and even make
it difficult to see through the windshield
under certain conditions.
Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
-. '4 -
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it
may severely weaken them. In a crash, they
might not
be able to provide adequate protection.
Clean safety belts only with mild soap and
lukewarm water.
Glass
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM
Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner
will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films.
Don't use abrasive cleaners
on glass, because they may
cause scratches. Avoid placing decals
on the inside rear
window, since they may have to be scraped off later.
If
abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear
window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the
defogger grid.
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Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield
and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield
washer, or
if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax
or other material may be on the blade or windshield.
Clean the outside
of the windshield with GM Windshield
Cleaner, Bon-Ami Powder@
(GM Part No. 10500 1 I ).
The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you
rinse it with water.
Clean
the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth
soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then
rinse the blade with water.
Wiper blades should be checked
on a regular basis and
replaced when worn.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every
six
months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent
application may be required. (See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index.)
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep
it clean by washing
it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use
liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps.
Don’t
use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or
that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents
should be flushed promptly and
not allowed to dry on
the surface, or
they could stain. Dry the finish with a
soft, clean chamois or a 100% cotton towel to avoid
surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure vehicle washes may cause water to enter
your vehicle.
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