1994 JEEP CHEROKEE water pump

(9) Install the intake and engine exhaust mani-
folds (refer to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake
Manifold for the proper procedures).
(10) Install the fuel lines and the vacuum advance
hose.
(11) If equipped, attach the power steering pump
and bracket.
(12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and
bridges in the order they were removed.
(13) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(14) Attach the air conditioner compressor mount-
ing bracket to the engine cylinder head and block.
Tighten the bolts to 40 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Attach the air conditioning compressor to the
bracket. Tighten the bolts to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: The serpentine drive belt must be routed
correctly. Incorrect routing can cause the water
pump to turn in the opposite direction causing the
engine to overheat.
(16) Install the serpentine drive belt and correctly
tension the belt (refer to Group 7, Cooling System for
the proper procedure).
(17) Install the air cleaner and ducting.
(18) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(19) Connect the hoses to the engine thermostat
housing and fill the cooling system to the specified
level (refer to Group 7, Cooling Systems for the
proper procedure).
(20) The automatic transmission throttle linkage
and cable must be adjusted after completing the en-
gine cylinder head installation (refer to Group 21,
Transmissions for the proper procedures).
(21) Install the temperature sending unit and con-
nect the wire connector.
(22) Connect the fuel pipe and vacuum advance
hose.
(23) Connect negative cable to battery.
(24) Connect the upper radiator hose and heater
hose at the engine thermostat housing.
(25) Fill the cooling system. Check for leaks.WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN DIRECT
LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT HANDS NEAR
THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
(26) Operate the engine with the radiator cap off.
Inspect for leaks and continue operating the engine
until the engine thermostat opens. Add coolant, if re-
quired.
VALVE SPRINGS AND OIL SEALS
This procedure can be done with the engine cylin-
der head installed on the block.
REMOVAL
Each valve spring is held in place by a retainer
and a set of conical valve locks. The locks can be re-
moved only by compressing the valve spring.
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove capscrews, bridge and pivot assemblies
and rocker arms for access to each valve spring to be
removed.
(3) Remove push rods. Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same order
and position as removed.
(4) Inspect the springs and retainer for cracks and
possible signs of weakening.
(5) Remove the spark plug(s) adjacent to the cylin-
der(s) below the valve springs to be removed.
(6) Install a 14 mm (1/2 inch) (thread size) air hose
adaptor in the spark plug hole. An adaptor can be
constructed by welding an air hose connection to the
body of a spark plug with the porcelain removed.
(7) Connect an air hose to the adapter and apply
air pressure slowly. Maintain at least 621 kPa (90
psi) of air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves
against their seats. For vehicles equipped with an air
conditioner, use a flexible air adaptor when servicing
the No.1 cylinder.
(8) Tap the retainer or tip with a rawhide hammer
to loosen the lock from the retainer. Use Valve
Spring Compressor Tool MD-998772A to compress
the spring and remove the locks (Fig. 5).
(9) Remove valve spring and retainer (Fig. 5).
(10) Remove valve stem oil seals (Fig. 5). Note the
valve seals are different for intake and exhaust
valves. The top of each seal is marked either INT
(Intake) or EXH (Exhaust). DO NOT mix the seals.
INSPECTION
Inspect the valve stems, especially the grooves. An
Arkansas smooth stone should be used to remove
nicks and high spots.
Fig. 4 Engine Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening
Sequence
9 - 62 4.0L ENGINEJ

(9) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT
strike the cap more than twice for proper engage-
ment.
(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 Nzm (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan.
(12) Install the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the Engine Assembly from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the
oil filter.
(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder
block.
(3) Remove the vibration damper.
(4) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover
upside down.
(5) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back
of the cover and tap the old seal out.
(6) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.
(7) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(8) Remove the camshaft.
(9) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(10) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.
(11) Remove the oil pump.
(12) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.
Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies
through the top of the cylinder bores.
(13) Remove the crankshaft.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole, the filter
bypass hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs.
Tighten the plugs to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTIONÐCYLINDER BORE
(1) Use a bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore
diameter (Fig. 9). If a bore gauge is not available,
use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(3) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller di-
ameter from the larger diameter.
(4) Rotate measuring device 120É and repeat steps
above. Finally, rotate the device another 120É and re-
peat measurements.
(5) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each 120É measurement.
(6) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed
0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be
honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out-of-round con-
dition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
must be bored and then honed to accept an oversize
Fig. 8 Location of Loctite 515 (or equivalent)
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Measurement
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 85

piston. A slight amount of taper always exists in the
cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a
period of time.
HONINGÐCYLINDER BORE
The honing operation should be closely coordinated
with the fitting of pistons and rings. This will ensure
specified clearances are maintained.
Refer to Standard Service Procedures in the begin-
ning of this Group for the proper honing of cylinder
bores.
ASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Install the crankshaft.
(2) Install the connecting rods and the pistons
through the top of the cylinder bores.(3) Install the oil pump.
(4) Install the oil pan and gasket.
(5) Install the camshaft.
(6) Install the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(7) Install the oil slinger from the crankshaft.
(8) Install the timing case cover seal.
(9) Install the timing case cover.
(10) Install the vibration damper.
(11) Install the water pump. Tighten the mounting
bolts to 31 Nzm (270 in. lbs.) torque.
(12) Lubricate the oil filter seal with clean engine
oil. Tighten oil filter to 18 Nzm (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install the engine into the vehicle.
(14) Fill the engine with clean lubrication oil (re-
fer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance).
(15) Fill the cooling system (refer to Group 7, Cool-
ing System for the proper procedures).
9 - 86 4.0L ENGINEJ

INTAKE MANIFOLDÐ2.5L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the air inlet hose from the throttle
body and air cleaner.
(3) Loosen the accessory drive belt tension and re-
move the belt from the power steering pump.
(4) Remove the power steering pump and brackets
from the water pump and intake manifold. Support
power steering pump and bracket with mechanics
wire attached to the radiator upper crossmember.
(5) Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relieve the
fuel tank pressure.
(6) Install the fuel tank filler cap.
(7) Disconnect fuel supply and return tube from
the fuel rail (refer to Group 14, Fuel System - Quick
Connect Fittings).
(8) Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throt-
tle body and the holddown bracket.
CAUTION: When disconnecting the cruise control
connector at the throttle body, DO NOT pry the con-
nector off with pliers or screwdriver. Use finger
pressure only. Prying the connector off could break
it.
(9) Disconnect the electrical connectors. Pull the
harnesses away from the manifold.
²The throttle position sensor.
²The idle speed control motor.
²The coolant temperature sensor at the thermostat.
²The manifold air temperature sensor at the intake
manifold.
²The fuel injectors.
²The oxygen sensor.
(10) Disconnect the crankcase ventilation (CCV)
vacuum hose and manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor vacuum hose connector at the intake mani-
fold.
(11) Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum port on
the intake manifold.
(12) Disconnect CCV hose at the cylinder head
cover (Fig. 12).
(13) Remove the molded vacuum harness.
(14) Disconnect the vacuum brake booster hose at
the intake manifold.
(15) Remove bolts 2 through 5 securing the intake
manifold to the cylinder head (Fig. 11). Slightly
loosen bolt No.1 and nuts 6 and 7.
(16) Remove the intake manifold and gaskets.
Drain the coolant from the manifold.
CLEANING
Clean the intake manifold and cylinder head mat-
ing surfaces.DO NOT allow foreign material to
enter either the intake manifold or the ports in
the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the new intake manifold gasket over the
locating dowels.
(2) Position the manifold in place and finger
tighten the mounting bolts.
(3) Tighten the fasteners in sequence and to the
specified torque (Fig. 11).
²Fastener No.1ÐTighten to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.)
torque.
²Fasteners Nos.2 through 7ÐTighten to 31 Nzm (23
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect the fuel return and supply tube to the
connector next to the fuel rail. Push them into the
fitting until a click is heard. Verify that the connec-
tions are complete.
²First, ensure only the retainer tabs protrude from
the connectors.
²Second, pull out on the fuel tubes to ensure they
are locked in place.
(5) Connect the molded vacuum hoses to the vac-
uum port on the intake manifold and the cylinder
head cover.
(6) Connect the electrical connectors.
²The throttle position sensor.
²The automatic idle speed control motor.
²The coolant temperature sensor at the thermostat
housing.
²The fuel injectors.
²The air manifold temperature sensor.
²The oxygen sensor.
(7) Connect the CCV vacuum hose and MAP sen-
sor vacuum hose connectors to the throttle body.
(8) Install the power steering pump and bracket
assembly to the water pump and intake manifold.
(9) Connect the accelerator cable and cruise control
cable to the holddown bracket and the throttle arm.
Fig. 12 Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) Hose
(2.5L Engine)
11 - 8 EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLDJ

pressure is bleeding past the (in-tank mounted) fuel
pump outlet check valve. Replace Fuel Pump Module
assembly. Refer to Fuel Pump Module removal and
installation in this group. If pressure drop is within
specifications, proceed to next step.
(13) Clamp off the rubber hose portion of adapter
tool number 6631 connected to the fuel supply line.
Allow engine to set for 30 minutes. If pressure has
dropped more than 138 kPa (20 psi) in 30 minutes,
pressure is bleeding past the fuel pressure regulator.
Replace fuel pressure regulator. Refer to Fuel Rail
removal and installation in the Component Removal/
Installation section of this group.
MECHANICAL MALFUNCTIONS
Mechanical malfunctions are more difficult to diag-
nose with this system. The powertrain control mod-
ule (PCM) has been programmed to compensate for
some mechanical malfunctions such as incorrect cam
timing, vacuum leaks, etc. If engine performance
problems are encountered and diagnostic trouble
codes are not displayed, the problem may be mechan-
ical rather than electronic.
FUEL FILTER
The fuel filter protects the fuel injectors and fuel
pressure regulator from dirt, water and other foreign
matter. The filter is located under the vehicle along
the frame rail (Figs. 13 or 14). Replace fuel filter at
intervals specified in the Lubrication and Mainte-
nance Schedule chart found in Group 0, Lubrication
and Maintenance.
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CON-
STANT FUEL PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE
OFF) OF APPROXIMATELY 131-269 KPA (19-39
PSI). THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED BE-
FORE SERVICING THE FUEL FILTER.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove fuel
filler cap.
WARNING: FUEL PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED
BEFORE DISCONNECTING ANY FUEL SYSTEM
COMPONENT.
(2) Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Release Procedure in this group.
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) On YJ models remove the fuel filter shield
(Fig. 13).
(5) Remove hoses and clamps from inlet and outlet
sides of filter (Figs. 13 or 14). For procedures, refer to
Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and Clamps. Also refer to
Quick-Connect Fittings. These can be found in the
Fuel Delivery System section of this group.
(6) Remove retaining strap bolt.
(7) Remove filter from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The ends of the fuel filter are marked for
correct installation. Install filter with the end marked
IN towards fuel tank and the end marked OUT to-
wards engine.
Fig. 13 Fuel Filter and ShieldÐYJ Models
Fig. 14 Fuel FilterÐXJ Models
14 - 8 FUEL SYSTEMJ

Some suspected converter housing fluid leaks may
not be leaks at all. Residual fluid in the housing, or
excess fluid spilled during factory fill or refill after
repair can be mistaken for a leak. In addition, a rear
main seal leak can also be mistaken for a pump seal
leak if care is exercised.
Converter housing leaks have several potential
sources. Through careful observation, a leak source
can be identified before removing the transmission
for repair.
Pump seal leaks tend to move along the drive hub
and onto the rear of the converter. Pump O-ring or
pump body leaks follow the same path as a seal leak
(Fig. 9).
Pump vent or pump attaching bolt leaks are gener-
ally deposited on the inside of the converter housing
and not on the converter itself (Fig. 9).
Pump seal or gasket leaks usually travel down the
inside of the converter housing.
Front band lever pin plug leaks are generally de-
posited on the housing and not on the converter.
LEAK DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and allow accumu-
lated fluid to drain out of the converter housing.
(2) Check and adjust the transmission fluid level.
(3) Raise the vehicle. Remove the converter hous-
ing dust cover and wipe as much fluid as possible
from the converter housing.
(4) Fabricate a test probe (Fig. 10). Then attach
the probe to the converter housing with one of the
dust shield bolts (Fig. 10).
(5) Have a helper run the engine at 2500 rpm
(with the transmission in Neutral) for two minutes;
then stop the engine.
(6) Inspect the test probe and converter housing. If
a leak is evident, note the color of the fluid. Trans-
mission fluid is red. Engine oil ranges in color from
brown to green, or to black when the oil is dirty.(7) If the probe upper surface is dry, the converter
and seal are not at fault. A path of fluid across the
probe upper surface indicates a converter or seal
leak. Fluid leakingunderthe probe is coming from
the pump housing area (Fig. 11).
(8) Fluid leaking under the probe could be from
the: pump seal and/or bushing, pump vent, kickdown
lever shaft access plug, pump bolts, or porous spots
in the pump body or transmission case (Fig. 11).
(9) If porous spots in the transmission case or
pump body are the suspected leak source, pressurize
the transmission as described in Leak Testing With
Air Pressure.
LEAK TESTING WITH AIR PRESSURE
This test involves closing off the transmission
openings and pressurizing the transmission to 8 psi
with Air Pump Tool 7700. A soapy water solution is
applied to suspected leak points before and during
the pressure test. Leaks will be indicated by the
presence of air bubbles coming through the solution.
Some transmission openings such as the fill tube
and front cooler line fitting can be closed off with a
rubber plug or similar device. Plugs can secured with
wire or duct tape.
Fig. 9 Typical Converter Housing Leak Paths
Fig. 10 Leak Test Probe
Fig. 11 Pump Area Inspection Points
21 - 74 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSISJ

The transmission rear output shaft opening is
closed off simply by leaving the transfer case bolted
in place. However, if the transfer case has been re-
moved, a shipping plug can used to close off this
opening.
The torque converter hub opening in the pump and
the pump vent require special tools to close them off.
The converter hub seal cap is made from thin wall
tube anda3mm(1/8 in.) thick disc (Fig. 12). A re-
taining strap is needed to secure the seal cup for
testing. The strap can be made from 32 mm (1-1/4
in.) wide stock (Fig. 13). The strap attaching hole po-
sitions are approximate only. Measure hole position
on the converter housing before drilling.
The pump vent tool is made from 6 mm (1/4 in.)
rod and 5 mm (3/16 in.) plate (Fig. 14). The fabri-
cated tools can all be made from mild steel or alumi-
num stock.
AIR PRESSURE LEAK TEST PROCEDURE
(1) Install vent plug, converter hub seal cup and
cup retaining strap (Fig. 15).(2) Close off remaining transmission openings with
rubber plugs, or stoppers.Do not close off rear
cooler line fitting. Air pump will be attached to
this fitting.
(3) Attach Air Pump 7700 to rear cooler line fit-
ting. Connect length of copper tube to fitting. Then
attach air pump hose to tube with hose clamp (Fig.
16).
(4) Apply thick soapy water solution to suspected
leak areas.
CAUTION: The recommended test pressure is 8
psi. The maximum allowable test pressure is 10 psi.
Do not exceed specified test pressure.
(5) Pressurize transmission to 8 psi with air pump.
(6) Observe suspected leak areas. Air bubbles ap-
pearing in soapy water solution indicate leak points.
(7) Remove test tools and plugs after test comple-
tion and make necessary repairs as described in Leak
Correction procedure.
Fig. 12 Converter Hub Seal Cup
Fig. 13 Seal Cup Retaining Strap
Fig. 14 Pump Vent Plug
Fig. 15 Vent Plug And Hub Seal Cup Installation
J30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSIS 21 - 75

mph (112 km/h) range. The incorrect angles can also
produce an audible vibration in the 20 - 50 mph (32 -
80 km/h) range. Caster adjustment could be required
to correct the angles.
UJÐUniversal Joints:Engine torque/vehicle
speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. If the
U-joint is worn it will cause vibration with almost
any vehicle speed/engine torque condition.
DSYÐDrive Shaft and Yokes:Vehicle speed sen-
sitive, mechanical/audible vibration. The condition
will not cause vibration below 35 mph (56 km/h). Ex-
cessive runout, unbalance or dents and bends in the
shaft will cause the vibration. Identify the actual
cause and repair/replace as necessary.
WBÐWheel Bearings:Vehicle speed sensitive,
mechanical/audible vibration. Loose wheel bearings
cause shimmy-like vibration at 35 mph (56 km/h)
and above. Worn bearings will also produce a growl
noise at low vehicle speed and a whine noise at high
vehicle speed. The wheel bearings must be adjusted
or replaced, as applicable.
ANÐAxle Noise:Engine torque/vehicle speed sen-
sitive, mechanical/audible vibration. The axle will not
cause mechanical vibration unless the axle shaft is
bent. Worn or damaged axle pinion shaft or differen-
tial gears and bearings will cause noise. Replace the
defective component(s) as necessary.
SSCÐSuspension and Steering Components:
Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. Wornsuspension/steering components can cause mechani-
cal vibration at speeds above 20 mph (32 km/h).
Identify and repair or replace the defective compo-
nent(s).
EAÐEngine Driven Accessories:Engine speed
sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. Vibration can
be caused by loose or broken A/C compressor, PS
pump, water pump, generator or brackets, etc. Usu-
ally more noticeable when the transmission is shifted
into the NEUTRAL position and the engine speed
(rpm) increased. Inspect the engine driven accesso-
ries in the engine compartment. Repair/replace as
necessary.
ADBÐAccessory Drive Belts:Engine speed sen-
sitive, audible vibration. Worn drive belts can cause a
vibration that produces either a droning, fluttering or
rumbling noise. Inspect the drive belt(s) and tighten/
replace as necessary.
DEMÐDamaged Engine or Transmission Sup-
port Mounts:Engine speed sensitive, mechanical/
audible vibration. If a support mount is worn, noise
or vibration will occur. Inspect the support mounts
and repair/replace as necessary.
ESÐExhaust System:Engine speed sensitive,
mechanical/audible vibration. If loose exhaust compo-
nents contact the vehicle body they will cause noise
and vibration. Inspect the exhaust system for loose,
broken and mis-aligned components and repair/re-
place as necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEEL LUG NUT
JWHEELS AND TIRES 22 - 11