1994 JEEP CHEROKEE mileage

Use Mopar Multi Mileage grease to lubricate drum
brake pivot pins and rear brakeshoe contact points
on the support plates. Use GE 661, or Dow 111 sili-
cone grease on caliper bushings and mounting bolts.
Use fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to
clean or flush brake system components. These are
the only cleaning materials recommended.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, methyl or
isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, or any fluid con-
taining mineral oil to clean the system components.
These fluids damage rubber cups and seals. If sys-
tem contamination is suspected, check the fluid for
dirt, discoloration, or separation into distinct layers.
Drain and flush the system with new brake fluid if
contamination is suspected.
JEEP BODY CODE LETTERS
The body/model identification code letters for Jeep
vehicles are as follows:
²Code letters XJ: Cherokee
²Code letters YJ: Wrangler/YJ
The code letters are used throughout this group to
simplify model identification and component applica-
tion.
BRAKE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: ALTHOUGH FACTORY INSTALLED
BRAKELINING ON JEEP VEHICLES IS MADE FROM
ASBESTOS FREE MATERIALS, SOME AFTER MARKET
BRAKELINING MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. THIS
SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN REPAIR-
ING A VEHICLE WITH PRIOR BRAKE SERVICE. WEAR
A RESPIRATOR WHEN CLEANING BRAKE COMPO-
NENTS AS ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN BE A HEALTH
HAZARD. NEVER CLEAN WHEEL BRAKE COMPO-
NENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR. USE A VACUUM
CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR REMOVING
BRAKE DUST. IF A VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAIL-
ABLE, CLEAN THE PARTS WITH WATER DAMPENED
SHOP RAGS. DO NOT CREATE DUST BY SANDING
BRAKELINING. DISPOSE OF ALL DUST AND DIRT
SUSPECTED OF CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN
SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. FOLLOW ALL REC-
OMMENDED SAFETY PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY
THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINIS-
TRATION (OSHA) AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PRO-
TECTION AGENCY (EPA), FOR HANDLING AND
DISPOSAL OF PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
5 - 2 BRAKESJ

(2) If red warning light is illuminated, or if neither
warning light is illuminated, make several stops and
note pedal action and brake response.
(3) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
problem is either in vacuum booster or master cylin-
der.
(4) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as pull, grab, drag, noise, fade, pedal pul-
sation, etc.
(5) Inspect suspect brake components and refer to
problem diagnosis information for causes of various
brake conditions.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any compo-
nents. The area around a leak point will be wet with
fluid. The components at a dragging brake unit
(wheel, tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the
touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,
especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boosters.
Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in this
group for more information.
DIAGNOSING SERVICE BRAKE PROBLEMS
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²parking brakes applied
²low pedal caused by malfunction in front/rear
brake hydraulic circuit (differential switch valve ac-
tuated)
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light indi-
cates that the valve in the differential pressureswitch has been actuated. If a problem is confirmed,
inspect the hydraulic system and wheel brake compo-
nents.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS component has
malfunctioned. The ABS light operates indepen-
dently of the red warning light. Refer to the antilock
brake section for more detailed diagnosis informa-
tion.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure in this
section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and/or the warn-
ing light illuminates, the problem is in the master
cylinder, wheel cylinders, or calipers.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
decrease as lining wear occurs. It is a result of the
outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder pis-
tons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin drums or substandard brake
lines and hoses will also cause a condition similar to
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, or replace thin drums and suspect
quality brake lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as de-
scribed in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at
one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is
a product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can
be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings,
rotors and drums.
5 - 8 BRAKESJ

CAUTION: Do not allow the master cylinder reser-
voir to run dry while bleeding the brakes. Running
dry will allow air to re-enter the system making a
second bleeding operation necessary.
(6) Perform ``Bleed Brake'' procedure with DRB II
scan tool. Procedure is described in DRB II software
information and diagnostic manual.
(a) Connect DRB II scan tool to diagnostic con-
nector.
(b) Run Bleed Brake procedure as described in
tester manual.
(7) Repeat conventional bleeding procedure out-
lined in steps (1) through (8).
(8) Top off master cylinder fluid level if necessary.
(9) Verify proper brake operation.
BRAKELINES AND HOSES
Metal brakelines and rubber brake hoses should be
inspected periodically and replaced if damaged.
Rubber brake hoses should be replaced if cut,
cracked, swollen, or leaking. Rubber hoses must be
replaced. They are not repairable parts.
When installing new, or original brakelines andhoses, lubricate the fitting threads with brake fluid
before connection.
The steel brakelines should be checked every time
the vehicle is in for normal maintainence. This is im-
portant on high mileage vehicles. It is even more im-
portant when a vehicle is operated in areas where
salt is used regularly on the road surface during win-
ter.
Heavily rusted/corroded brake rotors, drums, sup-
port plates, and brakelines should be cleaned and
carefully inspected. Heavy rust buildup can hide se-
vere damge to a component. Severely rusted parts
should be replaced if you are unsure about their con-
dition.
COMBINATION VALVE
The combination valve is not a serviceable part.
The valve must be replaced if a malfunction occurs.
BRAKELINE CHARTS
Brakeline charts are provided in illustration Fig-
ures 1 through 8. The illustrations show typical
brakeline routing, hose connections and component
position.
Fig. 1 Front Brakeline Routing (XJ With ABS Brakes)
JBRAKES 5 - 15

(9) Remove inboard shoe. Grasp ends of shoe and
tilt shoe outward to release springs from caliper pis-
ton (Fig. 8). Then remove shoe from caliper.
(10) Support caliper on box, mechanics stool, or se-
cure it to nearby suspension part with wire.Do not
allow brake hose to support caliper weight.
(11) Wipe caliper off with shop rags or towels.Do
not use compressed air. Compressed air can un-
seat dust boot and force dirt into piston bore.
(12) Inspect condition of caliper piston dust boot
(Fig. 9). Overhaul caliper if there is evidence of leak-
age past piston and dust boot. Then inspect caliper
bushings and boots (Fig. 9). Replace boots if torn or
cut. If bushings or boots are damaged, replace them.
DISC BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean brakeshoe mounting ledge slide surfaces
of steering knuckle with wire brush. Then apply
light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease to slide sur-
faces (Fig. 10).
(2) Lubricate caliper mounting bolts and bushings
(Fig. 10). Use GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone grease.(3) Keep new or original brakeshoes in sets.Do
not interchange them.
(4) Install inboard shoe in caliper (Fig. 11). Be
sure shoe retaining springs are fully seated in caliper
piston.
(5) Install outboard shoe in caliper (Fig. 12). Start
one end of shoe in caliper. Rotate shoe downward and
into place until shoe locating lugs and shoe spring
are seated.
(6) Verify that locating lugs on outboard shoe are
seated in caliper (Fig. 6).
(7) Install caliper. Position notches at lower end of
brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge (Fig. 13). Then
install caliper over rotor and seat upper ends of
brakeshoes on top mounting ledge (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Before securing the caliper, be sure the
caliper brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touch-
ing any chassis components. Also be sure the hose
is clear of all suspension and steering components.
Loosen and reposition the hose if necessary.
Fig. 7 Removing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 8 Removing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 9 Caliper Dust Boots And Bushing Locations
Fig. 10 Caliper Lubrication Points
5 - 26 BRAKESJ

DISC BRAKE ROTOR REFINISHING
When To Refinish
Rotor braking surfaces can be refinished by sand-
ing and/or machining in a disc brake lathe. However,
the rotor should be cleaned and inspected before-
hand. Careful inspection will avoid refinishing rotors
with very little service life left in them.
Pay particular attention to rotors that are heavily
rusted, or corroded. Accumulated rust/corrosion on
braking surfaces and ventilating ribs may extend to
a depth beyond acceptable limits. This can be espe-cially true on: (a) high mileage vehicles; (b) vehicles
regularly exposed to road salt during winter months;
(c) vehicles operated in coastal regions where salt
air/road splash is a factor; (d) and vehicles used for
extensive off-road operation.
Recommended Refinishing Equipment
The brake lathe must be capable of machining both
rotor surfaces simultaneously with dual cutter heads
(Fig. 31).Equipment capable of machining only
one side at a time will produce a tapered rotor.
The lathe should also be equipped with a grinder at-
tachment, or dual sanding discs for final cleanup or
light refinishing.
Refinishing Techniques
If the rotor surfaces only need minor cleanup of rust,
scale, or scoring, use abrasive sanding discs to clean up
the rotor surfaces. However, when a rotor is scored or
worn, machining with cutting tools will be required.
Light cuts are recommended when machining the
rotor surfaces. Heavy feed rates are not recom-
mended and may result in chatter marks, or taper.
CAUTION: Never refinish a rotor if machining would
cause the rotor to fall below minimum allowable thick-
ness.
The final finish on the rotor should be a non-direc-
tional, cross hatch pattern (Fig. 32). Use sanding
discs to produce this finish.
WHEEL NUT TIGHTENING
The wheel attaching nuts must be tightened properly
to ensure efficient brake operation. Overtightening the
nuts or tightening them in the wrong sequence can
Fig. 31 Rotor Refinishing Equipment
Fig. 32 Preferred Rotor Surface Finish
5 - 32 BRAKESJ

DRUM BRAKES
INDEX
page page
Brake Drum Refinishing.................... 37
Drum Brake Adjustment................... 35
Drum Brakeshoe Installation................ 34
Drum Brakeshoe Removal (Figs. 1 and 2)...... 34
Support Plate Replacement................. 37Wheel Cylinder Installation................. 37
Wheel Cylinder Overhaul (Figs. 8 and 9)....... 36
Wheel Cylinder Removal................... 36
Wheel Nut Tightening..................... 37
DRUM BRAKESHOE REMOVAL (Figs. 1 and 2)
(1) Raise vehicle and remove rear wheels.
(2) Remove and discard spring nuts securing
drums to wheel studs.
(3) Remove brake drums. If drums prove difficult
to remove, retract brakeshoes. Remove access plug at
the rear of backing plate and back off adjuster screw
with brake tool and screwdriver.
(4) Remove U-clip and washer securing adjuster
cable to parking brake lever.
(5) Remove primary and secondary return springs
from anchor pin with Brake Spring Plier Tool 8078.
(6) Remove holddown springs, retainers and pins
with Retaining Spring Tool C-4070.
(7) Install Spring Clamps C-416 on wheel cylinders
to hold pistons in place.
(8) Remove adjuster lever, adjuster screw and
spring.
(9) Remove adjuster cable and cable guide.
(10) Remove brakeshoes and parking brake strut.
(11) Disconnect cable from parking brake lever
and remove lever.
DRUM BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean support plate with Mopar brake cleaner.
Replace support plate if worn, or rusted through at
any point. Do not attempt to salvage, or reuse a dam-
aged support plate.
(2) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(3) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brake-
shoe contact surfaces of support plate (Figs. 3 and 4).
(4) Lubricate adjuster screw threads and pivot
with Mopar spray lube.
(5) Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake-
shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
(6) Remove wheel cylinder clamps.
(7) Attach parking brake cable to lever.
(8) Install brakeshoes on support plate. Secure
shoes with new holddown springs, pins and retainers.
(9) Install parking brake strut and spring.
(10) Install guide plate and adjuster cable on an-
chor pin.
(11) Install primary and secondary return springs.
(12) Install adjuster cable guide on secondary shoe.
Fig. 1 Nine Inch Drum Brake Components
5 - 34 BRAKESJ

(9) Coat cylinder bore, pistons, cups and expander
with brake fluid and reassemble cylinder compo-
nents. Be sure piston cup lips face expander.
WHEEL CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Apply small bead of silicone sealer around cyl-
inder mounting surface of support plate.
(2) Start brakeline in wheel cylinder fitting by
hand.
(3) Align and seat wheel cylinder on support plate
(Fig. 10).
(4) Install cylinder mounting bolts (Fig. 10).
Tighten bolts to 10 Nzm (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Tighten brakeline fitting to 15 Nzm (132 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) Install brakeshoes. Adjust shoes to drum with
brake gauge.
(7) Install brake drums and lower vehicle.
(8) Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.
SUPPORT PLATE REPLACEMENT
The support plate should cleaned and inspected
whenever the drum brake components are being ser-
viced.
Check the support plate for wear, or rust through
at the contact pads and replace the plate if neces-
sary. Be sure to lubricate the contact pads with Mo-
par multi-mileage grease before shoe installation.
Lubrication will avoid noisy operation and shoe bind.
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel/tire assembly.(2) Remove brake drum, brakeshoes, and wheel
cylinder.
(3) Remove axle shaft as described in Group 3.
(4) Remove support plate attaching nuts and re-
move support plate.
(5) Clean axle tube flange. If gasket is not used on
flange, apply thin bead of silicone adhesive/sealer to
flange.
(6) Position new support plate on axle tube flange.
(7) Apply Mopar Lock N9Seal, or Loctite 242 to
support plate attaching nuts. Then install and
tighten nuts.
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease
to contact pads of new support plate.
(9) Install wheel cylinder and brakeshoes.
(10) Adjust brakeshoes to drums. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(11) Bleed brakes.
(12) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(13) Adjust parking brake cable tensioner. Refer to
procedure in Parking Brake section.
(14) Lower vehicle and verify proper service brake
and parking brake operation.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
Brake drums can be machined to restore the brak-
ing surface. Use a brake lathe to clean up light scor-
ing and wear.
CAUTION: Never refinish a brake drum if machining
will cause the drum to exceed maximum allowable
brake surface diameter.
Brake drums that are warped, distorted, or se-
verely tapered should be replaced. Do not refinish
drums exhibiting these conditions. Brake drums that
are heat checked or have hard spots should also be
replaced.
If the brake drums are heavily coated with rust,
clean and inspect them carefully. Rust damage on
high mileage drums can be severe enough to require
replacement.
The maximum allowable diameter for the drum
braking surface is usually indicated on the drum
outer face (Fig. 11).
WHEEL NUT TIGHTENING
The wheel attaching lug nuts must be tightened
properly to ensure efficient brake operation. Over-
tightening the nuts or tightening them in the wrong
sequence can cause distortion of the brake rotors and
drums.
Impact wrenches are not recommended for tighten-
ing wheel nuts. A torque wrench should be used for
this purpose.
A light coat of LPS Anti-Corrosion spray lube
around the hub face and on the studs will cut down
on rust/corrosion formation.
Fig. 9 Wheel Cylinder (10-Inch Brake)
Fig. 10 Wheel Cylinder Mounting
JBRAKES 5 - 37

(4) Remove retainer clip securing booster push rod
to pedal (Fig. 3).
(5) Remove nut securing pedal shaft in support
bracket.
(6) Slide pedal shaft outward for clearance and re-
move brake pedal.
(7) Remove pedal bushings if they are to be re-
placed.
BRAKE PEDAL INSTALLATION
(1) Install new bushings in pedal. Lubricate bush-
ings and pivot pin with Mopar multi mileage grease.
(2) Position pedal, sleeve and spacer(s) in bracket
and install pivot pin.
(3) Install new nut on pivot pin.Pivot pin nut is
specially formed and should not be reused. Be
sure to install new nut to secure pin.
(4) ) Tighten new pivot pin nut to 27 Nzm (20 ft.
lbs.) on models with manual transmission. Tighten
nut to 35 Nzm (26 ft. lbs.) on models with automatic
transmission.
(5) Install booster push rod on pedal pin (Fig. 3).
Secure push rod with original, or new retainer clip if
necessary.
(6) Install dash brace rod, if equipped.
(7) Check and adjust brakelight switch if neces-
sary. Refer to procedure in this section.
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH REMOVAL
The brakelight switch is mounted in the pedal sup-
port bracket and is operated by the pedal. The switch
is secured in the bracket with a retainer (Fig. 4).
(1) Remove steering column cover and lower trim
panel for switch access, if necessary.
(2) Disconnect switch wires.
(3) Thread switch out of retainer, or rock switch
up/down and pull it rearward out of retainer.
(4) Inspect switch retainer. Replace retainer if
worn, distorted, loose, or damaged.
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH INSTALLATION
(1) Insert replacement switch in retainer. Thread
switch into place or rock it up/down until switch
plunger touches brake pedal.
(2) Connect switch wires.
(3) Check switch operation. Adjust switch position
if necessary. Refer to procedures in this section.
(4) Install trim panels (if removed).
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
A plunger-type brakelight switch is used on XJ
and YJ models (Fig. 4). The switch plunger is actu-
ated directly by the brake pedal.
The switch internal contacts are open when the
brake pedal is in the released position. Brake appli-
cation moves the pedal away from the switch allow-
ing the plunger to extend. As the plunger extends,
the switch internal contacts close completing the cir-
cuit to the brakelights.
A circular, metal clip is used to secure the switch
to the bracket on the pedal support. The clip has
tangs that seat in the threads of the switch plunger
barrel.
SWITCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
(1) Check switch adjustment. Move the brake
pedal forward by hand and note operation of the
switch plunger. Plunger should be fully extended
when pedal free play is taken up and brake applica-
tion begins. A clearance of approximately 3 mm (1/8
in.) should exist between plunger and pedal at this
point.
(a) If switch-to-pedal clearance is OK and brake-
lights operate correctly, adjustment is not required.
(b) If switch plunger does not fully extend and
clearance between pedal and switch barrel is insuf-
ficient, adjust switch position as described in step
(2).
Fig. 3 Push Rod Attachment At Brake Pedal (XJ)
Fig. 4 Brakelight Switch Mounting And Location
(XJ/YJ)
5 - 66 BRAKE PEDAL AND BRAKELIGHT SWITCHJ