1994 JEEP CHEROKEE wheel size

not change except when a spindle or ball stud is
damaged or bent. The angle is not adjustable and the
damaged component(s) must be replaced to correct
mis-alignment.
CAUTION:Do not attempt to modify any suspension
or steering component by heating and bending.
PRE-ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before starting a front wheel alignment, the follow-
ing inspection and necessary corrections must be
completed.
(1) Tires with the same recommended air pressure,
size, and thread wear. Refer to Group 22, Tires And
Wheels for diagnosis information.
(2) Front wheel bearings for wear.
(3) Ball studs, steering linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness, binding or
wear. Refer to Group 19, Steering for additional in-
formation.
(4) Front wheels for excessive radial or lateral
runout and unbalance. Refer to Group 22, Tires And
Wheels for diagnosis information.
(5) Suspension components for wear and noise.
Check components for correct torque. Refer to Groups
2 and 3, Suspension and Axle for additional informa-
tion.
ALIGNMENT MEASUREMENTS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Before each alignment reading, the vehicle should
be jounced (rear first, then front). Grasp each bumper
at the center and jounce the vehicle up and down
several times. Always release the bumper in the
down position.Set the front end alignment to
specifications with the vehicle at its NOR-
MALLY RIDE HEIGHT.
CAMBER
The wheel camber angle (Fig. 1) is preset at ZERO
DEGREES (0É). The angle is not adjustable and can-
not be altered.
CASTER
The caster angle (Fig. 1) is set at:
²XJ manual transmission, POSITIVE 6.5 DE-
GREES (+6.5É).
²XJ automatic transmission, POSITIVE 8.0 DE-
GREES (+8.0É).
²YJ all transmissions, POSITIVE 6.0 DEGREES
(+6.0É).
Before checking the caster of the front axle for cor-
rect angle. Be sure the axle is not bent or twisted.
Road test the vehicle, and make left and right
turns. If the steering wheel returns to the center po-
sition unassisted, the caster angle is correct. How-ever, if steering wheel does not return toward the
center position unassisted, an incorrect caster angle
is probable.
Caster can be adjusted by installing the appropri-
ate size shims (Fig. 2, 3).Changing caster angle
will also change the front propeller shaft angle.
The propeller shaft angle has priority over
caster. Refer to Group 16, Propeller Shafts for
additional information.
Fig. 2 AdjustmentÐYJ Vehicles
Fig. 3 AdjustmentÐXJ Vehicles
2 - 6 FRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLEJ

ABS BRAKE DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
ABS Fault Diagnosis....................... 4
ABS System Wiring and Electrical Circuits...... 4
ABS Warning Light Display.................. 3
Brake Warning Light Display................. 4
Diagnosis Procedures...................... 3
ECU Diagnosis........................... 4
HCU Diagnosis........................... 4Loss of Sensor Input....................... 3
Operating Sound Levels.................... 3
Rear Speed Sensor Air Gap................. 3
Steering Response........................ 3
Vehicle Response in Antilock Mode............ 3
Wheel/Tire Size and Input Signals............. 3
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
ABS diagnosis involves three basic steps. First is
observation of the warning light display. Second is a
visual examination for low fluid level, leaks, parking
brakes applied, or obvious damage to system compo-
nents or wires. The third step involves using the
DRB II scan tool to identify a faulty component.
The visual examination requires a check of reser-
voir fluid level and all system components. Things to
look for are leaks, loose connections, or obvious com-
ponent damage.
The final diagnosis step involves using the DRB II
scan tool to determine the specific circuit or compo-
nent at fault. The tester is connected to the ABS di-
agnostic connector in the passenger compartment.
The connector is at the driver side of the center con-
sole under the instrument panel. Refer to the DRB II
scan tool Manual for tester procedures. Also refer to
the ABS Fault Diagnosis charts at the end of this
section for additional diagnosis information.
Initial faults should be cleared and the vehicle road
tested to reset any faults that remain in the system.
Faults can be cleared with the DRB II scan tool.
REAR SPEED SENSOR AIR GAP
The front wheel sensors are fixed and cannot be ad-
justed. Only the rear sensor air gap is adjustable. Air
gap must be set with a brass feeler gauge.
Correct air gap is important to proper signal gen-
eration. An air gap that is too large may cause com-
plete loss of sensor input. Or, a gap that is too small
could produce a false input signal, or damaging con-
tact between the sensor and tone ring.
WHEEL/TIRE SIZE AND INPUT SIGNALS
Antilock system operation is dependant on accurate
signals from the wheel speed sensors. Ideally, the ve-
hicle wheels and tires should all be the same size
and type. However, the Jeep ABS system is designed
to function with a compact spare tire installed.
OPERATING SOUND LEVELS
The ABS pump and solenoid valves may produce
some sound as they cycle on and off. This is a normal
condition and should not be mistaken for faulty oper-
ation.
VEHICLE RESPONSE IN ANTILOCK MODE
During antilock braking, the HCU solenoid valves
cycle rapidly in response to ECU inputs.
The driver will experience a pulsing sensation
within the vehicle as the solenoids decrease, hold, or
increase pressure as needed. A pulsing brake pedal
will also be noted.
The pulsing sensation occurs as the solenoids cycle
during antilock mode braking. A slight pulse in the
brake pedal may also be noted during the dynamic
self check part of system initialization.
STEERING RESPONSE
A modest amount of steering input is required dur-
ing extremely high deceleration braking, or when
braking on differing traction surfaces. An example of
differing traction surfaces would be when the left
side wheels are on ice and the right side wheels are
on dry pavement.
LOSS OF SENSOR INPUT
Sensor malfunctions will most likely be due to
loose connections, damaged sensor wires, incorrect
rear sensor air gap, or a malfunctioning sensor. Ad-
ditional causes of sensor faults would be sensor and
tone ring misalignment or damage.
ABS WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY
ABS Light Illuminates At Startup
The amber ABS light illuminates at startup as
part of the system self check feature. The light illu-
minates for 2-3 seconds then goes off as part of the
normal self check routine.
ABS Light Remains On After Startup
An ABS system fault is indicated when the light
remains on after startup. Diagnosis with the DRB II
JBRAKES 5 - 3

when the cover is off. The second involves adding to,
or filling the cylinder reservoirs with a non-recom-
mended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If
the brakes are applied after contamination, system
flushing will be required. The master cylinder may
also have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston
seals replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reser-
voir compensator/return ports can cause brake drag
by restricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid will usually be discolored, milky, oily looking,
or foamy. In some cases, it may even appear as if the
fluid contains sludge.However, remember that
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally
be cloudy in appearance. These are normal con-
ditions and should not be mistaken for contami-
nation.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign
of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. How-
ever, calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can gen-
erate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION
Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov-
ered with grease and grit during repair.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a
cable tensioner mechanism. This applies to 1991
through 1994 YJ models and 1992 and later XJ
models. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at
the factory, will not need further adjustment un-
der normal circumstances. There are only two
instances when adjustment is required. The first
is when a new tensioner, or cables have been in-
stalled. And the second, is when the tensioner
and cables are disconnected for access to other
brake components.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum wear;
oversize drums; or inoperative shoe adjuster
components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper
brakeshoe adjustment, or mis-assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
5 - 10 BRAKESJ

assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear
²rear brakedrum wear
²brakedrums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify. If oversize drums are suspected, the
diameter of the braking surface will have to be
checked with an accurate drum gauge. Oversize
drums will cause low brake pedal and lack of park-
ing brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installa-
tion will result in unsatisfactory parking brake oper-
ation. Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause
drag, bind and pull along with poor parking brake
operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement
procedures are described in the Parking Brake sec-
tion.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). Over-
haul or replace cylinder.(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, power
booster or vacuum check valve is faulty. Install
known good check valve and repeat steps (2)
through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more
vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist
is not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster (Fig. 1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
Fig. 1 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal (Typical)
Fig. 2 Hand Operated Vacuum Pump (Typical)
JBRAKES 5 - 11

BRAKE BLEEDINGÐBRAKE FLUID AND LEVELÐBRAKELINES AND HOSES
INDEX
page page
Brake BleedingÐXJ/YJ with ABS Brakes....... 14
Brake BleedingÐXJ/YJ with Standard Brakes . . . 13
Brake Fluid Contamination.................. 13
Brake Fluid Level........................ 13Brakeline Charts......................... 15
Brakelines and Hoses..................... 15
Combination Valve....................... 15
Recommended Brake Fluid................. 13
RECOMMENDED BRAKE FLUID
The only brake fluid recommended for Jeep vehi-
cles with standard or antilock brakes, is Mopar brake
fluid, or an equivalent fluid meeting SAE J1703 and
DOT 3 standards.
Use new brake fluid only to top off the master
cylinder or refill the system. Never use re-
claimed fluid, fluid not meeting the SAE/DOT
standards or fluid from an unsealed container.
Do not use fluid from any container that has
been left open for any length of time. Fluid in
open containers can absorb moisture.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder and cover before
checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt from the
cover could enter the fluid. Also check the cover seal
and replace it if torn or distorted.
Correct fluid level is to within 6 mm (1/4 in.) of the
reservoir rim, or to the fill mark on models with a
plastic reservoir. Refer to the Antilock Brake section
for fluid levels on models equipped with ABS brakes.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
Oil in the fluid will cause brake system rubber
seals to soften and swell. The seals may also become
porous and begin to deteriorate.
If fluid contamination is suspected, drain off a sam-
ple from the master cylinder. A suction gun or simi-
lar device can be used for this purpose.
Empty the drained fluid into a glass container.
Contaminants in the fluid will cause the fluid to sep-
arate into distinct layers. If contamination has oc-
curred, the system rubber seals, hoses and cups must
be replaced and the system thoroughly flushed with
clean brake fluid.
BRAKE BLEEDINGÐXJ/YJ WITH STANDARD
BRAKES
Use Mopar DOT 3 brake fluid, or an equivalent
meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703-F and DOT 3, to
fill and bleed the system.
On standard brake models, bleeding can be per-
formed either manually or with pressure equipment.
However, if pressure equipment is used, it will be
necessary to hold the front brake metering valveopen in order to bleed the front brakes. The valve
can be held open with a tension clip tool or by hand.
It will also be necessary that a suitable size pressure
tank hose adapter be available for use on the master
cylinder.
MANUAL BLEEDING PROCEDURE
(1) If master cylinder has been overhauled or a
new cylinder will be installed, bleed cylinder on
bench before installation. This shortens time needed
to bleed system and ensures proper cylinder opera-
tion.
(2) Wipe master cylinder reservoir and cap clean
with shop towels.
(3) Remove cover and fill master cylinder reservoir
with Mopar, or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid.
(4) Open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed
screws.
(5) Close bleed screws after fluid begins flowing
from each bleed screw.
(6) Top off master cylinder reservoir again.
(7) Use following bleed sequence:
²master cylinder
²right rear
²left rear
²right front
²left front
(8) Observe following brake bleeding precautions:
²Do not pump brake pedal at any time while bleed-
ing. Air in system will be compressed into small bub-
bles that are distributed throughout hydraulic
system. This will make a second and third bleeding
operation necessary.
²Bleed only one wheel brake unit at a time and use
a bleed hose to bleed each wheel brake unit (Fig. 7).
²Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and in-
sert opposite end in glass container partially filled
with brake fluid (Fig. 7). Glass container makes it
easier to see air bubbles as they exit the bleed hose.
²Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid. Im-
mersing hose end in fluid prevents air from being
drawn back into cylinder and brakeline.
(9) Bleed master cylinder first. Have helper oper-
ate brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder
fluid outlet line.
JBRAKES 5 - 13

(9) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT
strike the cap more than twice for proper engage-
ment.
(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 Nzm (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan.
(12) Install the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the Engine Assembly from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the
oil filter.
(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder
block.
(3) Remove the vibration damper.
(4) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover
upside down.
(5) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back
of the cover and tap the old seal out.
(6) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.
(7) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(8) Remove the camshaft.
(9) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(10) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.
(11) Remove the oil pump.
(12) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.
Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies
through the top of the cylinder bores.
(13) Remove the crankshaft.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole, the filter
bypass hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs.
Tighten the plugs to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTIONÐCYLINDER BORE
(1) Use a bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore
diameter (Fig. 9). If a bore gauge is not available,
use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(3) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller di-
ameter from the larger diameter.
(4) Rotate measuring device 120É and repeat steps
above. Finally, rotate the device another 120É and re-
peat measurements.
(5) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each 120É measurement.
(6) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed
0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be
honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out-of-round con-
dition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
must be bored and then honed to accept an oversize
Fig. 8 Location of Loctite 515 (or equivalent)
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Measurement
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 85

PITMAN SHAFT SEALSÐIN CAR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pitman arm from gear. Refer to Pit-
man Arm Removal in Steering Linkage.
(2) Clean exposed end of pitman shaft and housing.
Use a wire brush to clean the shaft splines.
(3) Remove retaining ring with snap ring pliers
(Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Use care not to score the housing bore
when prying out seals and washers.
(4) Remove backup washer and double lip seal
with screwdriver.
²Start the engine and turn the steering wheel fully
to the LEFT to force out the seals and washers.
²Stop the engine
(5) Remove backup washer and single lip seal with
screwdriver.
(6) Inspect the housing for burrs and remove if
necessary. Inspect the pitman shaft seal surface for
roughness and pitting. If pitted replace shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install single lip seal with Installer or a suit-
able size deep socket (Fig. 3).
(2) Coat the double lip seal and washer with
grease.
(3) Install the backup washer.
(4) Install the double lip seal.
(5) Install the backup washer.
(6) Install the retainer ring with snap ring pliers.
(7) Center the steering gear.
(8) Install the pitman arm. Refer to Pitman Arm
Installation in Steering Linkage.(9) Add power steering fluid. Refer to Power Steer-
ing Initial Operation.
INTERMEDIATE (COUPLING) SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead po-
sition.
(2) Remove the shaft pinch bolt at the steering
gear and column (Fig. 4, 5). Unbolt steering gear
from frame rail to remove shaft. Refer to Steering
Gear Replacement in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the intermediate (coupler) shaft to the
steering gear and column.
(2) Position the steering gear on the frame. Refer
to Steering Gear Replacement in this section.
(3) Install and tighten the pinch bolts to 34 Nzm
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
STEERING GEAR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead po-
sition with the steering wheel centered.
(2) Disconnect and cap the fluid hoses from steer-
ing gear. Refer to Pressure and Return Hose Replace-
ment in this Group.
(3) Remove the column coupler shaft from the gear.
Refer to the removal procedures in this section.
(4) Remove pitman arm from gear. Refer to Pitman
Arm Removal in the Steering Linkage section.
Fig. 2 Pitman Shaft Seals
Fig. 3 Pitman Shaft Seal Installation
JSTEERING 19 - 21

(2) Wrap a single layer of plastic tape around the
pitman shaft threads and splines. This will protect
the replacement seals during installation.
(3) Install the seal with a suitable size socket.
(4) Remove the tape from the shaft.
(5) Center the steering gear.
(6) Align and install the pitman arm.
(7) Install the washer and retaining nut on the pit-
man shaft. Tighten the nut to 251 Nb1m (185 ft. lbs.)
torque.
GEAR ADJUSTMENTS IN VEHICLE
REMOVE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Mark the pitman shaft and pitman arm for in-
stallation reference. Remove the pitman arm from
the shaft.
(3) Loosen the adjuster lock nut then back the ad-
juster plug off 1/4 turn.
(4) Remove the steering wheel horn pad.
(5) Turn the steering wheel in one direction until
stopped by the gear. Then turn back 1/2 turn.
CAUTION: Do not turn the steering wheel hard
against the internal stops when the linkage is re-
moved. This could result in damage to the recircu-
lating ball guides.
MEASURE
Place a low calibration (50 in. lbs.) torque wrench
and socket on the steering wheel nut. Rotate the
wrench and nut through a 90 degree arc (1/4 turn).
This will measure the worm shaft bearing preload.
ADJUST WORMSHAFT BEARING PRELOAD
TORQUE
(1) Adjust the preload by tightening the adjuster
plug. The preload should be 0.6 to 1 Nzm(5to8in.
lbs.) torque.
Steering column/shaft misalignment or damage will
increase the amount of torque required to rotate the
steering wheel. If the rotating torque is exceptionally
high, inspect the steering column/shaft alignment. If
the alignment is correct, remove the steering gear,
determine the cause of the high preload torque, and
repair as necessary.
(2) Tighten the adjuster locknut to 68 Nzm (50 ft.
lbs.) torque. Measure the preload torque. If neces-
sary, adjust the preload torque again.
ADJUST OVERCENTER DRAG TORQUE
(1) Turn the steering wheel from one stop to the
other and count the total numbers of turns. Turn the
wheel back in reverse direction 1/2 the total number
of turns to center the steering gear.
(2) Turn the over center adjusting screw in to re-
move all lash between the ball nut and pitman shaftsector teeth. Hold the adjustment screw and tighten
the lock nut to 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Check the torque at the steering wheel by tak-
ing the highest reading as the wheel is turned
through the center position.
(4) The overcenter drag torque should be 0.5 to 1
Nzm (4 to 10 in. lbs.).
(5) If necessary, loosen the lock nut and adjust the
over center adjuster screw to obtain the proper
torque. Re-tighten the lock nut to the lock nut.
(6) After tightening the locknut, measure the over-
center drag torque again and readjust the torque, if
necessary.
INSTALL
(1) Align the installation reference marks and in-
stall the pitman arm.
(2) Install and tighten the pitman shaft nut and
washer to 251 Nzm (185 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the horn button.
GEAR DISASSEMBLY
(1) Rotate the wormshaft from stop-to-stop and
count the number of rotations. Rotate the wormshaft
in the reverse direction 1/2 of the total number of ro-
tations to center it and the ball nut.
(2) Remove the pitman shaft adjustment screw
locknut. Remove the cover retaining bolts, cover, and
gasket (Fig. 3).
(3) Slide the adjustment screw head (Fig. 3) out of
the pitman shaft T-slot and remove it and the
shim(s).
(4) Retain the shim(s) for end-play measurement
during assembly.
(5) Remove the pitman shaft, the wormshaft bear-
ing preload torque adjustment cap locknut, and the
adjustment cap (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the wormshaft and the ball nut (Fig.
2).
(7) Remove (pry) the pitman shaft and the worm-
shaft seals from the steering gear housing (Fig. 3).
WORMSHAFT AND BALL NUT DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove the upper bearing from the wormshaft
(Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not allow the ball nut to rotate freely
and travel to either extreme end of the wormshaft.
This could damage the tangs at the ends of the re-
circulating ball guides (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove the recirculating ball guide clamp re-
taining screws, the clamp and the guides (Fig. 2).
Separate the half-guides and place the recirculating
balls aside in a container.
(3) Hold the ball nut over a cloth. Remove the re-
maining recirculating balls by rotating the worm-
shaft back and forth.
JSTEERING 19 - 37