1994 JEEP CHEROKEE lock

(18) Check the ignition timing and adjust as nec-
essary.
(19) Install the grille and bumper, if removed.
(20) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT PIN REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the radiator. DO NOT waste reusable
coolant. Drain the coolant into a clean container.
(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gas-
ket material from the cover.
(10) Remove the thrust pin and tension spring
from the preload bolt head.
(11) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
11).
(12) Remove the camshaft sprocket preload retain-
ing bolt and washer.
(13) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(14) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(15) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.
(16) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.(17) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(18) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(19) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
bearing (smallest). This permits easier removal and
installation of the camshaft. The camshaft bearings
are pressure lubricated.
It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and instal-
lation tools are available.
Camshaft end play is maintained by the load
placed on the camshaft by the sprocket preload bolt
tension spring and thrust pin.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the camshaft pin hole.
(2) Compress the center of the replacement spring
pin with vise grips.
(3) Carefully drive the pin into the camshaft pin
hole until it is seated.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft
sprocket and timing chain with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 11).
(5) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 12. Count the
Fig. 11 Timing Chain AlignmentÐTypical
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 71

number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 15 pins.
(6) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(7) Tighten the camshaft sprocket preload bolt to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Check the valve timing.
(9) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the
spring and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.
(10) Coat both sides of the replacement timing case
cover gasket with gasket sealer. Applya3mm(1/8
inch) bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent to the joint formed at the oil pan
and cylinder block.
(11) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
(12) Place Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal
Installation Tool 6139 in the crankshaft opening in
the cover (Fig. 13).
(13) Install the timing case cover-to-cylinder block
bolts. Install the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts.
(14) Tighten the 1/4 inch cover-to-block bolts to 7
Nzm (60 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 5/16 inch front
cover-to-block bolts to 22 Nzm (192 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten the oil pan-to-cover 1/4 inch bolts to 14 Nzm
(120 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the oil pan-to-cover 5/16
inch bolts to 18 Nzm (156 in. lbs.) torque.
(15) Remove the cover alignment tool and install a
replacement oil seal into the cover.
(16) Install the vibration damper on the crank-
shaft.(17) Lubricate and tighten the damper bolt to 108
Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(18) If equipped with air conditioning:
(a) Install the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Install the generator.
(c) Install the A/C condenser and receiver/drier
assembly.
(19) Install the serpentine drive belt on the pulleys
and tighten (refer to Group 7, Cooling System for the
specifications and procedures).
(20) Install the radiator. Connect the radiator
hoses and automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes,
if equipped. Fill the cooling system.
(21) Install the fan and shroud.
(22) Connect negative cable to battery.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor.
(7) Remove the engine flywheel/transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
(10) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(11) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
Fig. 12 Verify Crankshaft/Camshaft
InstallationÐTypical
Fig. 13 Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal
Installation Tool 6139
9 - 72 4.0L ENGINEJ

(12) Using the jack stand, raise the engine until
adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
(13) Remove the oil pan bolts. Carefully slide the
oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped with an
oil level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 1/4
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier in-
stallation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 1).
(2) Install two dowels in the timing case cover. In-
stall the other two dowels in the cylinder block (Fig.
2).
(3) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block and timing case cover.
(4) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take
care not to damage the sensor.
(5) Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these
bolts to 14 Nzm (120 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16
inch oil pan bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten these bolts to 18
Nzm (156 in. lbs.) torque.(6) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 1/4
inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 14 Nzm (120
in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(8) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(9) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(10) If equipped with an oil level sensor, connect
the sensor.
(11) Install the engine flywheel/transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(12) Install the engine starter motor.
(13) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(14) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 3). Tighten
the plug to 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Lower the vehicle.
(16) Connect negative cable to battery.
(17) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(18) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
OIL PUMP
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
The pump incorporates a nonadjustable pressure
relief valve to limit maximum pressure to 517 kPa
(75 psi). In the relief position, the valve permits oil
to bypass through a passage in the pump body to the
inlet side of the pump.
Oil pump removal or replacement will not affect
the distributor timing because the distributor drive
gear remains in mesh with the camshaft gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
Fig. 1 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
Fig. 2 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
Fig. 3 Position of 5/16 inch Oil Pan Bolts
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 73

(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig. 4).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer as-
sembly must be installed to assure an airtight seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the short bolt to 14
Nzm (10 ft. lbs.) torque and the long bolt to 23 Nzm
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan.
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE
The MINIMUM oil pump pressure is 89.6 kPa (13
psi) at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pump pressure
is 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi) at 1600 rpm or more.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(3) Remove the push rods.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head.
(5) Position the pistons one at a time near the bot-
tom of the stroke. Use a ridge reamer to remove the
ridge from the top end of the cylinder walls. Use a
protective cloth to collect the cuttings.
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Drain the engine oil.
(8) Remove the oil pan and gasket.(9) Remove the connecting rod bearing caps and
inserts. Mark the caps and rods with the cylinder
bore location. The connecting rods and caps are
stamped with a two letter combination (Fig. 1).
(10) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(11) Have an assistant push the piston/connecting
rod assemblies up and through the top of the cylinder
bores (Fig. 2).
Fig. 4 Oil Pump Assembly
Fig. 1 Stamped Connecting Rods and Caps
Fig. 2 Removal of Connecting Rod and Piston Assembly
9 - 74 4.0L ENGINEJ

INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
ings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fa-
tigue and pitting (Fig. 5). Replace any bearing that
shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.CONNECTING RODS
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause ab-
normal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls,
connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting
rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of
these components indicate the probability of a mis-
aligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
BEARING-TO-JOURNAL CLEARANCE
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Use short rubber hose sections over rod bolts
during installation.
(3) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(4) Use piston ring compressor to install the rod
and piston assemblies. The oil squirt holes in the
rods must face the camshaft. The arrow on the piston
crown should point to the front of the engine (Fig. 6).
Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods face the
camshaft and that the arrows on the pistons face the
front of the engine.
(5) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(6) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten nuts to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.)
torque. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(7) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 7). Refer to En-
gine Specifications for the proper clearance.Plasti-
gage should indicate the same clearance across
the entire width of the insert. If the clearance
varies, it may be caused by either a tapered
Fig. 3 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
Fig. 4 Locking Tab Inspection
Fig. 5 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication or
by Damaged Crankshaft Pin Journal
Fig. 6 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 75

The difference between cylinder bore diameter and
piston diameter is piston-to-bore clearance.
FEELER GAUGE METHOD
(1) Remove the rings from the piston.
(2) Insert a long 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) feeler
gauge into the cylinder bore.
(3) Insert the piston, top first, into cylinder bore
alongside the feeler gauge. With entire piston in-
serted into cylinder bore, the piston should not bind
against feeler gauge.
(4) Repeat steps with a long 0.051 mm (0.002 inch)
feeler gauge. The piston should bind.
(5) If the piston binds on 0.025 mm (0.001 inch)
feeler gauge, the piston is too large or cylinder bore
is too small. If the piston does not bind on 0.051 mm
(0.002 inch) feeler gauge, the piston is too small for
cylinder bore. Pistons up to 0.102 mm (0.004 inch)
undersize may be enlarged by knurling or shot-peen-
ing. Replace pistons that are 0.102 mm (0.004 inch)
or more undersize.
PISTON PIN
REMOVAL
Piston pins are press-fitted into the connecting rods
and require no locking device.
(1) Position the piston and connecting rod assem-
bly on an arbor press.
(2) Apply force to a piloted driver and press the
pin completely out of the connecting rod and piston
assembly (Fig. 9). Note position of the pin through
the gauge window of removal support tool.INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the piston pin and pin bore in the con-
necting rod for nicks and burrs. Remove as neces-
sary. Never reuse a piston pin after it has been
installed in and removed from a connecting rod.
(2) With the pin removed from the piston and con-
necting rod, clean and dry piston pin bores and the
replacement piston pin.
(3) Position the piston so that the pin bore is in
vertical position. Insert the pin in bore. At room tem-
perature, the replacement pin should slide com-
pletely through the pin bore in piston by force of
gravity.
(4) Replace piston if pin jams in the pin bore.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the piston pin pilot through the piston
and connecting rod pin bores. Ensure that the arrow
on the piston crown is pointing up (Fig. 10).
(2) Position the pin pilot, piston and connecting
rod on a support with the squirt hole of the connect-
ing rod to the left-hand side (Fig. 10).
(3) Insert piston pin through the upper piston pin
bore and into the connecting rod pin bore.
(4) Position the piloted driver inside the piston pin
(Fig. 9).
(5) Using an arbor press, press the piston pin
through the connecting rod and piston bores until pin
pilot indexes with mark on the support. The piston
pin requires a 8 900 N (2,000 pounds) press-fit. If lit-
tle effort is required to install piston pin in a con-
necting rod, or if the rod moves laterally on the pin,
the connecting rod must be replaced.
Fig. 8 Piston Dimensions
Fig. 9 Piston Pin Removal/Installation
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 77

CAUTION: Ensure that connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose slipped over the
connecting rod bolts will provide protection during
installation.
(3) Use a piston ring compressor to install the con-
necting rod and piston assemblies through the top of
the cylinder bores (Fig. 18).
(4) Ensure the arrow on the piston top points to
the front of the engine (Fig. 18).
(5) Raise the vehicle.
Each bearing insert is fitted to its respective jour-
nal to obtain the specified clearance between the
bearing and the journal. In production, the select fit
is obtained by using various-sized, color-coded bear-
ing inserts as listed in the Connecting Rod Bearing
Fitting Chart. The color code appears on the edge of
the bearing insert. The size is not stamped on inserts
used for production of engines.
The rod journal is identified during the engine pro-
duction by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek or counterweight toward the flange (rear) end
of the crankshaft. The color codes used to indicate
journal sizes are listed in the Connecting Rod Bear-
ing Fitting Chart.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair (refer to Con-
necting Rod Bearing Fitting Chart). A standard size
insert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce clearance
0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).
CAUTION: DO NOT intermix bearing caps. Each
connecting rod and bearing cap are stamped with
the cylinder number. The stamp is located on a ma-
chined surface adjacent to the oil squirt hole that
faces the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
(6) Install the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts in the same positions as removed.CAUTION: Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods
face the camshaft and that the arrows on the pis-
tons face the front of the engine.
(7) Install the oil pan and gaskets as outlined in
the installation procedure.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head, push rods,
rocker arms, bridges, pivots and engine cylinder head
cover.
(10) Fill the crankcase with engine oil.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the oil pan and oil pump.
(5) Remove only one main bearing cap and lower
insert at a time (Fig. 1).
(6) Remove the lower insert from the bearing cap.
(7) Remove the upper insert by LOOSENING (DO
NOT REMOVE) all of the other bearing caps. Now
insert a small cotter pin tool in the crankshaft jour-
nal oil hole. Bend the cotter pin as illustrated to fab-
ricate the tool (Fig. 2). With the cotter pin tool in
place, rotate the crankshaft so that the upper bear-
ing insert will rotate in the direction of its locking
tab. Because there is no hole in the No.3 main jour-
nal, use a tongue depressor or similar soft-faced tool
to remove the bearing insert (Fig. 2). After moving
Fig. 18 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
Fig. 1 Removing Main Bearing Caps and Lower
Inserts
9 - 80 4.0L ENGINEJ

the insert approximately 25 mm (1 inch), it can be
removed by applying pressure under the tab.
(8) Using the same procedure described above, re-
move the remaining bearing inserts one at a time for
inspection.
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal
wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material
imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert
wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 3).
If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
remove the engine for crankshaft repair.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
FITTING (CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED)
The main bearing caps, numbered (front to rear)
from 1 through 7 have an arrow to indicate the for-
ward position. The upper main bearing inserts are
grooved to provide oil channels while the lower in-
serts are smooth.
Each bearing insert pair is selectively fitted to its
respective journal to obtain the specified operating
clearance. In production, the select fit is obtained by
using various-sized color-coded bearing insert pairs
as listed in the Main Bearing Fitting Chart. The
bearing color code appears on the edge of the insert.
The size is not stamped on bearing inserts used
for engine production.
The main bearing journal size (diameter) is identi-
fied by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek. The rear main journal, is identified by a color-
coded paint mark on the crankshaft rear flange.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair. A standard size
insert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce the clear-
ance by 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).Never use a pair
of bearing inserts with greater than a 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch) difference in size (Fig. 4).
When replacing inserts, the odd size inserts
must be either all on the top (in cylinder block)
or all on the bottom (in main bearing cap).
Once the bearings have been properly fitted, pro-
ceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
BEARING-TO-JOURNAL CLEARANCE (CRANKSHAFT
INSTALLED)
When using Plastigage, check only one bearing
clearance at a time.
Install the grooved main bearings into the cylinder
block and the non-grooved bearings into the bearing
caps.
Install the crankshaft into the upper bearings dry.
Place a strip of Plastigage across full width of the
crankshaft journal to be checked.
Install the bearing cap and tighten the bolts to 108
Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 2 Removing Upper Inserts
Fig. 3 Main Bearing Wear Patterns
Fig. 4 Bearing Insert Pairs
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 81