1993 FORD MONDEO washer fluid

Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate (A) and homologation plate
(B) must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
0•8MOT Test Checks
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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing
Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Automatic transmission linkage lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Clutch pedal adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2, 28
Door and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . See Chapter 4Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check
and filter cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 12
Ventilation system pollen filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade check . . . . . . 6
1•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents
1
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Ford Mondeo maintenance schedule
1•3
1
Maintenance schedule
The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for these
vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the
vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance
intervals recommended by the factory for Mondeos driven daily, but
subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your vehicle in
peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance
enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle,
we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter
intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of
these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply
particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with
the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in
heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in
below-freezing temperatures.
When your vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a Ford dealer
service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the
initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner. Note that
this first free service (carried out by the selling dealer 1500 miles or 3
months after delivery), although an important check for a new vehicle,
is not part of the regular maintenance schedule, and is therefore not
mentioned here.
Weekly checks
m mCheck the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary
(Section 3)
m mCheck the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary
(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the
system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible
opportunity (Sections 12 and 22)
m mCheck the windscreen/tailgate washer fluid level, and top-
up if necessary (Section 3)
m mCheck the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4)
m mVisually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or
damage (Section 4)
m mCheck the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and
the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system
(Sections 6 and 8). Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12),
and clean the lenses of all exterior lights
Monthly checks
m mCheck the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-
tion 3)
m mCheck the battery electrolyte level, where applicable
(Section 3)
m mCheck the power steering fluid level, and top-up if
necessary (Section 5)
m mVisually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage
(Section 12)
m mCheck the operation of the air conditioning system
(Section 14)
m mCheck the operation of the handbrake (Section 23)
m mCheck the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight
washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6)
m mCheck the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them if
worn or no longer effective - note that the manufacturer
recommends renewing the blades as a safety precaution,
irrespective of their apparent condition, at least once a
year (Section 6)
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months,
whichever occurs first
Note:If the vehicle is used regularly for very short (less than
10 miles), stop/go journeys, the oil and filter should be renewed
between services (ie, every 5000 miles/6 months).
m mCheck the electrical system (Section 8)
m mCheck the battery (Section 9)
m mCheck the seat belts (Section 10)
m mCheck the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 11)
m mCheck for fluid leaks and hose condition (Section 12)
m mCheck the condition of all wiring (Section 13)
m mCheck all air conditioning components (Section 14)
m mChange the engine oil and filter (Section 15)
m mCheck the manual transmission oil level (Section 16)
m mCheck the adjustment of the clutch pedal (Section 17)
m mLubricate the automatic transmission linkage (Section 18)
m mCheck the steering, suspension and wheels (Section 19)
m mCheck the driveshaft gaiters and CV joints (Section 20)
m mCheck the exhaust system (Section 21)
m mCheck the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 22)
m mCheck the brake system (Section 23)
m mCheck and lubricate the doors and bonnet (Section 24)
m mCheck the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 25)
m mRoad test (Section 26). Check the level of the automatic
transmission fluid with the engine still hot, after the road
test (Section 7)
Every 20 000 miles or 2 years,
whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mRenew the ventilation system pollen filter (Section 27)
m mRenew the coolant (Sections 2 and 28)
Every 30 000 miles or 3 years,
whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mRenew the air filter element (Section 29). Note that this
task must be carried out at more frequent intervals if the
vehicle is used in dusty or polluted conditions
m mCheck the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system,
and clean the filter (Section 30)
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 31)
Every 60 000 miles
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m
mRenew the timing belt (Section 32)
m mRenew the fuel filter (Section 33)
Every 3 years
(regardless of mileage)
m mRenew the brake fluid (Section 34)
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1•4
Engine compartment components
1 Spark plugs (Section 31)
2 Engine oil filler cap (Section 3)
3 Brake fluid reservoir (Section 3)
4 Auxiliary fusebox (Chapter 12)
5 Air cleaner assembly (Section 29)
6 Battery (Section 9)
7 Cooling system expansion tank
(Section 28)
8 Ventilation system pollen filter - under
cowl grille panel (Section 27)
9 Air intake resonator (Chapter 4)
10 Radiator top hose (Section 12)
11 Cooling system expansion tank filler cap
(Section 3)
12 Air intake plenum chamber (Chapter 4)
13 Engine oil dipstick (Section 3)
14 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate
15 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
(Section 3)
16 Auxiliary drivebelt (Section 11)
17 Power steering fluid reservoir (Section 5)
Front underbody view
1 Radiator bottom hose (Section 12)
2 Exhaust gas oxygen sensor (Chapter 6)
3 Braking system, fuel and emission control
system lines (Section 22)
4 Front disc brake (Section 23)
5 Manual transmission drain plug
(Chapter 7, Part A)
6 Front suspension subframe (Chapter 2,
Part B)
7 Manual transmission filler/level plug
(Section 16)
8 Radiator undershield (Section 28)
9 Catalytic converter (Section 21)
10 Exhaust system rubber mountings
(Section 21)
11 Engine oil drain plug (Section 15)
12 Engine oil filter (Section 15)
Maintenance procedures
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15Coolant hydrometers are available at
most automotive accessory shops. If the
specific gravity of a sample taken from the
expansion tank (when the engine is switched
off and fully cooled down) is less than that
specified, the coolant mixture strength has
fallen below the minimum. If this is found,
either the coolant strength must be restored
by adding neat antifreeze to Ford’s
specification (if that is what is in the system)
or by draining and flushing the system, then
refilling it with fresh coolant mixture of the
correct ratio (if any other type of antifreeze is
being used).
16When checking the coolant level, always
note its condition; it should be relatively clear.
If it is brown or rust-coloured, the system
should be drained, flushed and refilled. If
antifreeze has been used which does not
meet Ford’s specification, its corrosion
inhibitors will lose their effectiveness with
time; such coolant must be renewed regularly,
even if it appears to be in good condition,
usually at the intervals suggested at the
beginning of Section 2 of this Chapter.
Windscreen/tailgate and
headlight washer fluid
17Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate washer
system (and where applicable the headlight
washer system) is stored in a plastic reservoir,
which is located at the right front corner of the
engine compartment. In milder climates, plain
water can be used to top-up the reservoir, but
the reservoir should be kept no more than
two-thirds full, to allow for expansion should
the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of
a specially-formulated windscreen washer
fluid, available at your dealer or any car
accessory shop, will help lower the freezing
point of the fluid (see illustration). Do notuse
regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage the
vehicle’s paintwork.
Battery electrolyte
18On models not equipped with a sealed
battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte
level of all six battery cells. The level must be
approximately 10 mm above the plates; this
may be shown by maximum and minimum
level lines marked on the battery’s casing (seeillustration). If the level is low, use a coin to
release the filler/vent cap, and add distilled
water. Install and securely retighten the cap.
Caution: Overfilling the cells may
cause electrolyte to spill over
during periods of heavy charging,
causing corrosion or damage.
Refer also to the warning at the beginning
of Section 9.
Brake fluid
19The brake fluid reservoir is located on the
top of the brake master cylinder, which is
attached to the front of the vacuum servo unit.
The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on
the side of the translucent reservoir, and the
fluid level should be maintained between
these marks at all times (see illustration).
20The brake fluid inside the reservoir is
readily visible. With the vehicle on level
ground, the level should normally be on or just
below the “MAX” mark.
21Progressive wear of the brake pads and
brake shoe linings causes the level of the
brake fluid to gradually fall; however, when
the brake pads are renewed, the original level
of the fluid is restored. It is not therefore
necessary to top-up the level to compensate
for this minimal drop, but the level must never
be allowed to fall below the minimum mark.
22If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag
before removing the cap. When adding fluid,
pour it carefully into the reservoir, to avoid
spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces
(see illustration). Be sure to use only the
specified hydraulic fluid (see “Lubricants,
fluids and capacities”at the start of this
Chapter) since mixing different types of fluid
can cause damage to the system.
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it. Wash off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Do not use fluid that has
been standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air. Excessmoisture can cause corrosion and a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
23When adding fluid, it is a good idea to
inspect the reservoir for contamination. The
system should be drained and refilled if
deposits, dirt particles or contamination are
seen in the fluid.
24After filling the reservoir to the correct
level, make sure that the cap is refitted
securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of
foreign matter.
25If the reservoir requires repeated
replenishing to maintain the correct level, this
is an indication of an hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
Power steering fluid
26See Section 5 of this Chapter.
1Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare
you from the inconvenience of being stranded
with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with
vital information regarding possible problems
in the steering and suspension systems
before major damage occurs.
2The original tyres on this vehicle are
equipped with tread wear indicator (TWI)
bands, which will appear when the tread
depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Most
tyres have a mark around the tyre at regular
intervals to indicate the location of the tread
4 Tyre and tyre pressure checks
1•8
3.17 Topping-up the windscreen washer
reservoir3.18 On non-sealed batteries, keep the
electrolyte level of all the cells in the
battery between the maximum and
minimum levels (arrowed) - ie, 10 mm
above the plates. Use only distilled water,
and never overfill3.19 Brake fluid reservoir, showing “MAX”
and “MIN” marks
3.22 Topping-up the brake fluid reservoir
Weekly checks
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the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail
reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit
the nail, so that its point of penetration is
marked. Then immediately change the wheel,
and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do
not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any
doubt as to the possible consequences of any
damage found, consult your local tyre dealer
for advice.
8General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear; however, it is
worth bearing in mind that if this is completely
effective, the added expense is incurred of
replacing simultaneously a complete set of
tyres, which may prove financially restrictive
for many owners.
9Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. The front wheels should
always be correctly aligned according to the
settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.10Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for
condition and pressure.
11Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.
1The power steering fluid reservoir is located
on the right-hand rear corner of the engine
compartment.
2For the fluid level check, the power steering
system should be at its normal operating
temperature, so it is best to carry out the
check after a run.
3Position the vehicle on level ground, withthe front wheels pointing straight ahead, and
switch off the engine.
4Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX”
mark on the reservoir (see illustration).
5If topping-up is required, first use a clean
rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding
area, to prevent foreign matter from entering
the system. Unscrew and remove the filler
cap.
6Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using
the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of
this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not
to introduce dirt into the system, and do not
overfill. The need for frequent topping-up
indicates a leak, which should be
investigated.
7Refit the filler cap.
1The windscreen wiper and blade assembly
should be inspected at the specified intervals
for damage, loose components, and cracked
or worn blade elements.
2Road film can build up on the wiper blades
and affect their efficiency, so they should be
washed regularly with a mild detergent
solution.
3The action of the wiping mechanism can
loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they
should be checked and tightened, as
necessary, at the same time as the wiper
blades are checked.
4If the wiper blade elements are cracked,
worn or warped, or no longer clean
adequately, they should be replaced with new
ones.
5Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the
glass.
6To remove the windscreen wiper blade,
release the catch on the arm, then turn the
blade through 90° and withdraw the blade
from the end of the arm (see illustration).
7To remove the tailgate wiper blade, push
the wiper blade forward, and at the same time
depress it against the spring pressure, then
withdraw it from the end of the arm (see
illustration).
8If the metal part of the wiper blade is in
good condition, it may be possible to renew
the rubber insert separately. The insert can be
obtained from a car accessory shop and,
according to type, it may need to be cut to the
correct length before sliding into the clips.
9Refit the wiper blade assembly using a
reversal of the removal procedure, making
sure that it fully engages with the spring clip.
10Check that the washer jets direct the fluid
onto the upper part of the
windscreen/tailgate/rear window/headlight,
and if necessary adjust the small sphere on
the jet with a pin.
6 Windscreen/tailgate washer
system and wiper blade check
5 Power steering fluid level
check
1•10
5.4 Power steering fluid reservoir,
showing “MAX” and “MIN” marks5.6 Topping-up the power steering fluid
reservoir
6.7 Tailgate wiper blade removal6.6 Releasing the catch to remove a
windscreen wiper blade
Weekly checks
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Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
1•11
17.4 Removing the automatic transmission
dipstick from its tube7.6A “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the
dipstick7.6B Adding automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube
Every 10 000 miles
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is
160 to 175°F, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just
been driven for a long time at
high speed or in city traffic in hot
weather, or if it has been pulling
a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading
cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
ranges three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick
from its tube (see illustration). Note the
condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the
“MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the
specified automatic transmission fluid through
the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if
necessary (see illustrations). It is important
not to introduce dirt into the transmission
when topping-up.
7Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct.8The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-
brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt
about the condition of the fluid, purchase
some new fluid, and compare the two for
colour and smell.
1Check the operation of all external lights
and indicators (front and rear).
2Check for satisfactory operation of the
instrument panel, its illumination and warning
lights, the switches and their function lights.
3Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4Check all other electrical equipment for
satisfactory operation.
5Check all electrical wiring in the engine
compartment for correct routing, and for any
signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.
Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when checking
and servicing the battery.
Hydrogen gas, which is highly
flammable, is always present in the battery
cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other
open flames and sparks away from the
battery. The electrolyte inside the battery
is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will
cause injury if splashed on your skin or in
your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and
painted surfaces. When disconnecting the
battery, always detach the negative (earth)
lead first and connect it last!
Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer
to Section 1 of Chapter 5.
9 Battery check, maintenance
and charging
8 Electrical system check
7 Automatic transmission fluid
level check
9.1 Tools and materials required for
battery maintenance
1Face shield/safety goggles- When
removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic
particles can easily fly up into your eyes
2Baking soda- A solution of baking soda
and water can be used to neutralise corrosion
3Petroleum jelly- A layer of this on the
battery terminals will help prevent corrosion
4Battery terminal/lead cleaner- This wire
brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of
corrosion from the battery terminals and lead
clamps
5Treated felt washers- Placing one of
these on each terminal, directly under the
lead clamps, will help prevent corrosion
6Puller- Sometimes the lead clamps are
very difficult to pull off the terminals, even
after the nut has been completely slackened.
This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off
the terminal without damage
7Battery terminal/lead cleaner- Here is
another cleaning tool which is a slightly
different version of number 4 above, but does
the same thing
8Rubber gloves- Another safety item to
consider when servicing the battery;
remember, that’s acid inside the battery!
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5Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore
the puddle of water which will be left if the air
conditioning system is in use. As soon as a
leak is detected, its source must be traced
and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for
some time, it is usually necessary to use a
steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to
clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the
exact source of the leak can be identified.
Vacuum hoses
6It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be colour-coded, or to be identified by
coloured stripes moulded into them. Various
systems require hoses with different wall
thicknesses, collapse resistance and
temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak.
Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be taken
when inspecting or servicing fuel
system components. Work in a well-
ventilated area, and do not allow open
flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights,
etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work
area. Mop up any spills immediately, and
do not store fuel-soaked rags where they
could ignite.
10Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on thehose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring-type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
15Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly after previous work has
been carried out.
3Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5Check all electrical connectors, ensuringthat they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Ford dealer for details.
6If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a suitable material
which will exclude dirt and moisture,
preventing the corrosion from occurring
again; a Ford dealer may be able to
recommend a suitable product.
7Check the condition of the battery
connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found (see Chap-
ter 5). Use the same techniques to ensure that
all earth points in the engine compartment
provide good electrical contact through clean,
metal-to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened. (In addition to the earth connection
at the engine lifting eye, and that from the
transmission to the body/battery, there are
one or two earth points behind each headlight
assembly, and one below the power steering
fluid reservoir.)
8Refer to Section 31 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any fittings or
remove any components until
after the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant must be properly
discharged into an approved type of
container, at a dealer service department
or an automotive air conditioning repair
facility capable of handling R134a
refrigerant. Always wear eye protection
when disconnecting air conditioning
system fittings.
1The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis, to ensure
that the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn
or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 11).
(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,
bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.
Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil
bubbles and seepage. If there’s any
evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew
the hose(s).
(c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
insects and other debris. Use a “fin
14 Air conditioning system
check
13 Engine compartment wiring
check
1•15
1
Every 10 000 miles
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