1993 FORD MONDEO washer fluid

spring must now be carefully released from
the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the
spring can be left in compression.
7With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear and damage, and check the bearing for
smoothness of operation. Renew components
as necessary.
8Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
9Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
noting the following points:
(a) Make sure that the coil spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower
seats before releasing the compressor.
(b) Check that the bearing is correctly fitted
to the piston rod seat.
(c) Tighten the thrust bearing retaining nut to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the front suspension struts
on both sides of the vehicle. Note that, on
models with ABS, the wheel sensor wiring
support brackets are located beneath the nuts
(see illustrations).
3Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar
mounting bolts from the engine subframe on
both sides of the vehicle.
4Withdraw the anti-roll bar from one side of
the vehicle, taking care not to damage the
surrounding components.5If necessary, unscrew the nuts and remove
the links from the anti-roll bar.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel.
2If removing the right-hand side lower arm,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover where
necessary.
3Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts
securing the lower arm to the subframe (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the anti-roll bar on both
sides. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards away
from the lower arm.
5Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint, and
disconnect the gaiter from the CV joint
housing. This is necessary to prevent damageto the gaiter when the steering knuckle is
moved outwards to remove the lower arm.
7Note which way round the front suspension
lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then
unscrew and remove it from the knuckle
assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the
knuckle; if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the separation
procedure. Support the inner end of the
driveshaft on an axle stand (see illustrations).
8Remove the lower arm from the subframe,
and withdraw it from the vehicle.
Overhaul
9Examine the rubber bushes and the
suspension lower balljoint for wear and
damage. The balljoint may be renewed as
described in Section 8. The rubber bushes
may be removed using a press, or a length of
metal tubing together with a long bolt,
washers and nut.
10Note that the front and rear bushes are
different. The front one has a solid rubber
bush with a cylindrical inner tube, whereas the
rear one has a voided rubber bush with a
barrel-shaped inner tube (see illustration).
11Press the new bushes into the lower arm,
using the same method as used for removal.
Note that, when fitting the rear bush, the voids
must be in line with the front bush location.
On later models, a pip on the rear bush must
be aligned with a triangular alignment mark on
the arm.
7 Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
6 Front anti-roll bar and links -
removal and refitting
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
6.2A Unscrew the nut . . .6.2B . . . and disconnect the anti-roll bar
link and (on ABS models) the sensor wiring
support bracket
7.3 One of the nuts and bolts securing the
lower arm to the subframe7.7A Unscrew the lower arm balljoint
clamp bolt . . .7.7B . . . and disconnect the balljoint from
the knuckle
procarmanuals.com

2Position a trolley jack under the coil spring
area of the rear lower suspension arm, to
keep the coil spring in compression.
3Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt (see illustration).
4Unscrew and remove the upper mounting
bolt, and withdraw the shock absorber from
under the vehicle.
Testing
5Check the mounting rubbers for damage
and deterioration. If they are worn, they may
be renewed separately from the shock
absorber body.
6Mount the shock absorber in a vice,
gripping it by the lower mounting. Examine
the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage.
Test the operation of the shock absorber by
moving it through a full stroke, and then
through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In
both cases, the resistance felt should be
smooth and continuous. If the resistance is
jerky or uneven, the shock absorber should be
renewed.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the mounting bolts to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and remove the washers
and bushes securing the anti-roll bar links to
the rear lower arms (see illustrations).
3Using a Torx key, unscrew the bolts
securing the anti-roll bar mounting clamps to
the rear suspension crossmember; release the
clamps, and withdraw the anti-roll bar from
under the vehicle (see illustration).
4Examine the rubber bushes for the
mounting clamps and links, and if necessary
renew them. The links are available
individually.
Refitting
5Locate the anti-roll bar on the rear
crossmember, then refit the clamps and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
6Refit the anti-roll bar links to the rear lower
arms, together with the bushes and washers.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque, while
holding the actual links stationary in their
central position.
7Refit the rear wheels, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension coil spring, a tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be obtained.
Careful use of conventional coil spring
compressors will prove satisfactory.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
2Support the weight of the rear lower arm
beneath the coil spring position with a trolley
jack.
3Fit the coil spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged), and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting.
4Unscrew the nut, and remove the washerand bush attaching the anti-roll bar link to the
rear lower arm.
5Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
rear lower arm to the knuckle (see
illustration).
6Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
front lower arm to the knuckle (see
illustration).
7Lower the rear lower arm, and withdraw the
coil spring from under the vehicle. Take care
to keep the compressor tool in full
engagement with the coil spring (see
illustration).
8If a new coil spring is to be fitted, the
original coil spring must be released from the
compressor. If it is to be re-used, the coil
spring can be left in compression.
21 Rear coil spring (Estate
models) - removal and refitting20 Rear anti-roll bar and links
(Estate models) -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
10
20.3 Anti-roll bar mounting clamp on the
rear suspension crossmember21.5 Rear lower arm-to-knuckle mounting
bolt21.6 Front lower arm-to-knuckle mounting
bolt
19.3 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolt (Estate)20.2A Mounting nut (arrowed) and rubber
bush securing the rear anti-roll bar link to
the rear lower arm
20.2B View of the anti-roll bar link nut
through the rear lower arm
procarmanuals.com

the specified mileage (or time) since the last
service has been reached.
4To reset the service interval system and
turn off the light, a switch inside the glovebox
must be depressed for a minimum of 4
seconds with the ignition switched on. This
should be carried out by a Ford dealer if the
vehicle is still in the warranty period.
Component renewal
5The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the auxiliary warning
system components. Disconnect the battery
negative (earth) lead before commencing
work (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). Refitting
procedures are a reversal of removal.
Display warning bulb
6Remove the control assembly.
7Prise off the cover, and pull out the relevant
bulb and bulbholder.
Low air temperature warning sender
unit
8Remove the front bumper.
9Unclip the sender unit and disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
Engine oil level sensor
10Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11Place a container beneath the oil level
sensor, to catch any spilt oil.12Unscrew the screws and remove the
cover from the sensor.
13Disconnect the multi-plug.
14Unscrew and remove the sensor, and
remove the seal (see illustration).
Door ajar sensor
15Remove the door lock as described in
Chapter 11, Section 14.
16Unclip the sensor and disconnect the
multi-plug.
Low coolant warning switch
17Refer to Chapter 3, Section 6.
Low washer fluid switch
18Disconnect the multi-plug from the
washer fluid reservoir.
19Drain or syphon out the fluid from the
reservoir.
20Using a screwdriver, lever out the switch
from the reservoir (see illustration).
Service indicator reset switch
21Remove the glove compartment lid as
described in Chapter 11, Section 32.
22Carefully lever out the switch using a
small screwdriver.
23Remove the rear cover and disconnect
the wiring (see illustration).
Control assembly
24Remove the instrument panel surround,
referring to Section 10.25Unscrew the mounting screws,
disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
assembly.
Bulb failure module
26Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering wheel.
27Unclip the bulb failure module and
disconnect the multi-plug.
Note: From November 1993, for added
security, a complex Bosch immobiliser system
was fitted to some models. For further details,
refer to your Ford dealer.
1All UK models are fitted with an anti-theft
alarm system, incorporating movement
sensors and an ignition immobiliser. The
system is activated when the vehicle is
locked.
2The system includes a start inhibitor circuit,
which makes it impossible to start the engine
with the system armed.
3The movement sensors consist of two
ultrasonic units, located in the “B” pillars,
incorporating transmitters and receivers (see
illustrations). The receivers check that the
echo frequency matches the original
frequency. If there is any significant
difference, the system triggers the alarm.
20 Anti-theft alarm system- general
information
12•18 Body electrical system
19.9 Low air temperature sender unit
removal
1 Clip 2 Sender unit 3 Multi-plug19.14 Engine oil level sensor removal
1 Cover 2 Multi-plug 3 Sensor 4 Seal19.20 Removing the low washer fluid
switch
19.23 Service indicator switch removal
1 Lever out the switch 2 Cover 3 Wiring20.3A Disconnecting a movement sensor
multi-plug20.3B Removing a movement sensor
procarmanuals.com

switches mounted in the engine compartment
with a control cable connected to the throttle
valve actuator, driver-operated switches,
brake and clutch pedal switches, an indicator
light, and a road speed sensor.
4The driver-operated switches are mounted
on the steering wheel, and allow the driver to
control the various functions.
5The vehicle speed sensor uses the
speedometer cable drive pinion to generate
pulses which are fed to the speed control unit.
6The stop-light switch, brake pedal switch
and (when applicable) clutch pedal switch are
used to disable the cruise control system. The
stop-light switch is activated when the brake
pedal is applied gently, and the brake pedal
switch is activated when the brake pedal is
applied forcibly.
7An indicator light on the instrument panel is
illuminated when the system is in operation.
8The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the cruise control
system components. The battery negative
(earth) lead should be disconnected before
commencing work (refer to Chapter 5, Sec-
tion 1). Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Speed control switch
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, with reference to Chapter 10.
10Remove the air bag module as described
in Section 29.11Disconnect the multi-plugs, then unscrew
the screws and remove the switch.
Disable switches
12Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering column.
13Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
clutch switch, brake pedal switch and stop-
light switch.
14To remove the clutch and brake pedal
switches, twist them anti-clockwise. To
remove the stop-light switch, twist it
clockwise (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. To
ensure correct operation of the brake pedal
switches, reset the switch by fully extending
its plunger (see illustration).Depress the
pedal until the distance between it and the
mounting bracket is as shown in Chapter 9,
illustration 25.6. Hold the pedal in this
position, clip the switch securely into position
and gently raise the pedal to the at-rest
position. This will automatically set the
position of the switch.
Speed control actuator
16Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
17Disconnect the actuator cable from the
throttle linkage on the throttle housing, by
releasing the inner cable end fitting from the
segment and unclipping the outer cable from
the bracket.
18Unscrew the actuator mounting bolt, thenslide the actuator out of the mounting pin
holes.
19Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
assembly.
20Depress the actuating cable cap locking
arm, and remove the cap by turning it anti-
clockwise (see illustration).
21Gently raise the cable retaining lug by a
maximum of 0.5 mm, and push the cable end
out of the slot in the pulley.
22When refitting, make sure that the cable
end locks into the slot in the pulley.
23To locate the cable cap onto the actuator
pulley, keep the cable taut and in the pulley
groove, and pull the throttle linkage end of the
cable to draw the cable cap onto the pulley.
24To refit the cable cap, keep the cable taut
and the pulley still, then refit the cable cap
tabs into the actuator slots; turn the cap
clockwise until the locking arm locates on the
locking stop. Note:Incorrect assembly of the
cable onto the pulley may result in a high idle
speed. Check that the throttle lever is in its
idle position after refitting the actuator.
Removal
Washer reservoir and pump
1Unscrew the bolts, and release the clips to
remove the radiator lower cover.
2Unscrew the mounting bolts, and pull the
reservoir forwards slightly (see illustration).
For better access, it may be necessary to
remove the front bumper.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs for the
windscreen washer pump and fluid level
sensor (see illustration).
4Disconnect the hoses from the windscreen
washer pump and (where applicable) from the
headlamp washer pump. Anticipate some loss
of fluid by placing a container beneath the
reservoir.
5Withdraw the reservoir from the vehicle.
6Pull the level sensor, the windscreen
washer pump, and (where applicable) the
22 Windscreen/tailgate washer
system components -
removal and refitting
12•20 Body electrical system
21.14 Removal of the speed control
disable switches
1 Clutch switch 3 Stop-light switch
2 Brake pedal switch21.15 Resetting the brake pedal and stop-
light switches21.20 Removing the actuator cable
locking arm
22.2 Washer reservoir mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.3 Disconnecting the washer pump and
level sensor multi-plugs
procarmanuals.com

REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
procarmanuals.com

REF•6Fault Finding
Engine 1
m mEngine backfires
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine noises
m mEngine rotates but will not start
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine starts but stops immediately
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
Cooling system 2
m
mCorrosion
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mOvercooling
m mOverheating
Fuel and exhaust systems 3
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Clutch 4
m
mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase
in vehicle speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
Manual transmission 5
m
mJumps out of gear
m mLubricant leaks
m mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mVibration
Automatic transmission 6
m
mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mFluid leakage
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or
has no drive in forward or reverse gears
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator fully depressed
Driveshafts 7
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system 8
m
mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mBrakes binding
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
m mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
Suspension and steering systems 9
m
mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mExcessive play in steering
m mExcessively-stiff steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
m mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWandering or general instability
m mWheel wobble and vibration
Electrical system 10
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mIgnition warning light fails to come on
m mIgnition warning light remains illuminated with engine running
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mLights inoperative
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
procarmanuals.com

REF•12
Battery will not hold a charge more than a few days
m mBattery defective internally (Chapter 5).
m mBattery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mAuxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).
m mAlternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).
m mShort-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 12).
Ignition (no-charge) warning light remains
illuminated with engine running
m mAuxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).
m mAlternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).
m mInternal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).
m mBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5).
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
m
mWarning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).
m mBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).
m mAlternator faulty (Chapter 5).
Lights inoperative
m
mBulb blown (Chapter 12).
m mCorrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
m mBroken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty switch (Chapter 12).
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
m
mFaulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
m
mFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).
m mWiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty gauge (Chapter 12).
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum reading
m mFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).
m mWiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty gauge (Chapter 12).
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Horn fails to operate
m
mBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
m mCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty horn (Chapter 12).
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
m
mCable connections loose (Chapter 12).
m mHorn mountings loose (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty horn (Chapter 12).
Horn operates all the time
m
mHorn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12).
m mHorn cable to horn push earthed (Chapter 12).
Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative or
unsatisfactory in operation
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
m mWiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding (Chapter 12).
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
m mCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
m mWiper arms incorrectly-positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 1).
m mWiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
m
mWiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Chapter 1).
m mWiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 1).
m mInsufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film (Chapter 1).
Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
One or more washer jets inoperative
m mBlocked washer jet (Chapter 1).
m mDisconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 1).
m mInsufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).
Washer pump fails to operate
m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty washer switch (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty washer pump (Chapter 12).
Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
m mFaulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).
Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
m mFaulty switch (Chapter 12).
Window glass slow to move
m
mIncorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11).
m mRegulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter 11).
m mDoor internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).
m mFaulty motor (Chapter 12).
Window glass fails to move
m
mIncorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11).
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
m mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty motor (Chapter 12).
Central locking system inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
Complete system failure
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
m mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock
m
mFaulty master switch (Chapter 11).
m mBroken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 11).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
One lock motor fails to operate
m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty lock motor (Chapter 11).
m mBroken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11).
m mFault in door latch (Chapter 11).
Fault Finding
10 Electrical system
Note:For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the faults listed under “Engine”earlier in this Section.
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REF•18Index
E
Earth fault - 12•4
Economy/Sport mode switch - 12•7
ECU (Electronic Control Unit) - 6•10, 6•11,
6•12
EGR exhaust gas pressure differential
sensor - 6•16
EGR system - 6•15, 6•16
Electric shock - 0•5
Electric windows fault - REF•12
Electrical system - 0•8, 1•11, 1•20
Electrical system fault - REF•12
Electrically-operated windows - 12•7
Electrolyte - 1•8
Electronic control system - 4•9, 6•2
Emblems - 11•17
Emission checks - 0•10
Emissions control systems - 6•1
Engine compartment light - 12•11
Engine electrical systems- 5•1et seq
Engine fault finding - REF•7, REF•8, REF•10
Engine management system - 4•8, 4•9
Engine oil - 1•2, 1•6, 1•16
Engine oil level sensor - 12•18
Engine removal and general engine
overhaul procedures- 2B•1et seq
Environmental considerations - REF•4
Evaporative emissions control (EVAP)
system - 6•14
Evaporator - 3•9
Exhaust gas pressure differential sensor -
6•11, 6•12, 6•13
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system -
6•15, 6•16
Exhaust manifold - 2A•8
Exhaust system - 0•9, 0•10, 1•18, 4•12,
REF•9
Expansion tank - 3•5, 3•6
FFacia - 11•21, 11•23
Fan(s) - 3•4, 12•11
Fault code read-out - 6•6
Fault finding- REF•6et seq
Fault finding - automatic transmission -
7B•1
Fault finding - electrical system - 12•4
Filling - 11•3
Fire - 0•5
Fluid level checks - 1•6
Flywheel - 2A•24
Foglight - 12•7, 12•9, 12•13
Foglight warning indicator - 12•11
Fuel and exhaust systems- 0•10, 4•1et
seq
Fuel and exhaust system fault finding -
REF•9
Fuel consumption high - REF•9
Fuel cut-off switch - 4•8
Fuel filter - 1•26
Fuel gauge - 4•6
Fuel gauge fault - REF•12
Fuel hoses - 1•15
Fuel injection system - 4•8, 4•9
Fuel injectors - 4•10
Fuel lines - 1•19, 4•2
Fuel odour - REF•9Fuel pressure check - 4•5
Fuel pressure regulator - 4•11
Fuel pump - 4•5, 4•6
Fuel rail - 4•10
Fuel system - 4•2
Fuel tank - 4•7, 4•8
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fumes from exhaust system - REF•9
Fuses - 12•5
G
Gaiters - 1•18, 8•7, 8•9, 10•21
Gashes in bodywork - 11•3
Gaskets - REF•4
Gear lever - 7A•2
Gear selection problems - REF•9, REF•10
Gearbox oil - 1•2
Gearchange linkage - 7A•2
Gearchange selector shaft - 7A•3
Glossary of technical terms - REF•13
Glovebox - 11•22
Glovebox light - 12•11
Grab handle - 11•20
H
Handbrake - 0•7, 9•16, 12•7
Handles - 11•10, 11•11, 11•12, 11•13,
12•11
Hazard flashers - 12•7, 12•11
HC emissions - 0•10
Headlight - 1•8, 12•7, 12•8, 12•12, 12•13
Heated rear window - 12•8
Heated seat - 12•8
Heated windscreen - 12•8
Heater - 3•2, 3•7, 3•8, 12•11, 12•12
Horn - 12•7, 12•15
Horn fault - REF•12
Hoses - 1•14, 3•2, 9•11
HT leads - 1•24
Hub and bearings - 10•5, 10•9, 10•14
Hydraulic fluid - 1•2
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - 9•11
Hydraulic system - 9•12
Hydraulic tappets - 2A•14
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle speed - 4•9, 4•11, 6•10
Idle-increase solenoid valve - 4•12
Ignition coil - 5•3
Ignition module - 5•4
Ignition switch - 12•6
Ignition system - 5•3
Ignition timing - 5•4, 6•10
In-car engine repair procedures- 2A•1et
seq
Indicators - 12•7, 12•9, 12•12
Information sensors - 6•10
Inlet manifold - 2A•7
Instrument panel - 12•7, 12•11, 12•14
Instruments - 1•20
Instruments fault - REF•12
Intake air temperature sensor - 6•11, 6•13
Introduction to the Ford Mondeo - 0•4
J
Jacking - 0•11
Joint mating faces - REF•4
Jump starting - 0•12
K
Knuckle - 10•5, 10•10, 10•14
L
Leaks - 0•13, 1•14, REF•9
Light units - 12•12
Lights - 12•7, 12•11
Lights inoperative - REF•12
Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•4
Locks - 11•6, 11•10, 11•12, 11•13, 11•15,
11•16, 11•17, 12•6, REF•12
Low air temperature warning sender unit -
12•18
Low coolant warning switch - 12•18
Low washer fluid switch - 12•18
Lower suspension arm - 10•8, 10•9, 10•13,
10•16
Lubrication system - 2A•4
Luggage compartment switch - 12•7
M
Main bearings - 2B•18, 2B•20
Maintenance- Also see Routine
maintenance
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe -
11•2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets -
11•3
Manifolds - 2A•7, 2A•8
Manual transmission- 1•17, 2A•24, 2B•3,
2B•4, 7A•1et seq
Manual transmission fault finding - REF•9
Manual transmission oil - 1•2
Master cylinder - 9•10
Mirrors - 0•7, 11•14, 12•7
Misfire - REF•7, REF•8
Mixture - 0•10, 4•9
MOT test checks- 0•7et seq
Mountings - 2A•24, 7A•7, 7B•5
N
Number plate light - 12•10, 12•13
O
Oil (transmission) - 1•2
Oil (engine) - 1•2, 1•6, 1•16
Oil cooler - 2A•22
Oil level sensor - 2A•22, 12•18
Oil pressure warning light illuminated -
REF•8
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