1993 FORD MONDEO washer fluid

inner wing panel, release the engine
wiring loom and refit the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(g) Secure the engine wiring loom neatly to
the engine/transmission so that it cannot
be damaged as the unit is removed from
the vehicle.
14Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield; unclip the coolant hose to allow
the upper part to be withdrawn.
15Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
16Unbolt the power steering pump (see
Chapter 10); secure it as far as possible
(without disconnecting the system’s hoses)
clear of the engine/transmission.
17Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands, then remove the front
roadwheels. Drain the cooling system and (if
the engine is to be dismantled) drain the
engine oil and remove the oil filter (see
Chapter 1). Also drain the transmission as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 7.
18Withdraw the lower part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield.
19Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then unhook all the system’s rubber
mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle (see
Chapter 4 for details).
20Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, mark their positions, then
disconnect the gearchange linkage and
transmission support rods from the rear of the
transmission. Unscrew the retaining nuts, and
withdraw the gear linkage heat shield from the
underbody. Unbolt the rear end of the linkage
from the underbody, swivel the linkage around
to the rear, and tie it to the underbody (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
21Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension strut - note the
flexible brake hose bracket attached to each
link stud - and both track rod ends from their
steering knuckles. Unfasten the clamp bolt
securing each front suspension lower arm
balljoint to its steering knuckle (see Chap-
ter 10 for details). Check that both balljoints
can be released from the knuckle assemblies
when required, but leave them in place for thetime being, secured by the clamp bolts if
necessary.
22Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, unbolt the accumulator/
dehydrator from the subframe; secure it as far
as possible (without disconnecting the
system’s hoses) clear of the engine/
transmission.
Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.
23Unbolt the steering gear from the
subframe; if the bolts are not accessible from
above, a Ford service tool will be required to
reach them from underneath the vehicle (see
Chapter 10 for details).
24Unscrew the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
25Hold the radiator in its raised position, by
inserting split pins through the holes in the
rear of the engine compartment front
crossmember and into the radiator’s upper
mounting extensions. Unbolt the radiator
mounting brackets from the subframe; note
that they are handed, and are marked to
ensure correct refitting (see illustrations).
Collect and store the bottom mounting
rubbers for safekeeping, noting which way up
they are fitted.
26Unbolt the engine/transmission rear
mounting from the subframe - where the
vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, a
separate damper may be fitted beneath the
subframe, which must be unbolted to reach
the mounting’s fasteners. Where the vehicle is
fitted with manual transmission, also unscrew
the mounting centre bolt, and unbolt the
mounting bracket from the transmission.
27Unscrew the engine/transmission front
mounting centre bolt, and unbolt the
mounting from the subframe, noting the
location of the wiring connector bracket.
28Use white paint or similar (do not use a
sharp-pointed scriber, which might break the
underbody protective coating and cause
rusting) to mark the exact relationship of the
subframe to the underbody. Unscrew the four
mounting bolts from the subframe (note their
different-sized washers - see also illus-tration 4.47A) and allow the subframe to hang
down on the suspension lower arm balljoints.
Disconnect the balljoints one at a time from
the steering knuckle assemblies (see Chap-
ter 10) and lower the subframe to the ground;
withdraw the subframe from under the
vehicle.
29Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above) and catching as much as possible of
the escaping coolant in the drain tray,
disconnect the cooling system hoses and
pipes as follows - refer to Chapter 3 for further
details, if required:
(a) Remove the radiator top hose.
(b) Remove the (heater) hose running from
the thermostat to the engine
compartment bulkhead union.
(c) Disconnect from the thermostat the hose
running to the expansion tank - secure the
hose clear of the working area.
(d) Disconnect from the thermostat the
coolant hose/pipe which runs to the
radiator bottom hose.
(e) Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from
the radiator union, from the (sump) heater
coolant pipe and from the water pump
union - secure the hose clear of the
working area.
(f) Unbolt the (heater) coolant pipe from the
sump, trace the pipe/hose round to the
engine compartment bulkhead union,
disconnecting (where fitted) the oil cooler
hoses from the cooler unions, then
remove it.
(g) Unless the vehicle has air conditioning
fitted, secure the radiator as far forwards
as possible while it is in its raised position;
if air conditioning is fitted, remove the
radiator completely (see Chapter 3).
30Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, unplug the compressor’s
electrical connector, and unbolt the
compressor from the engine (see
illustration). Secure it as far as possible
(without disconnecting the system’s hoses)
clear of the engine/transmission.
Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.
2B•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.25A Use split pins as shown to secure
radiator in its raised position . . .
4.25B . . . while you unbolt the bottom
mountings (arrowed) - note that the
mountings are handed, and do not lose the
mounting rubbers
4.30 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to release
air conditioning compressor from engine
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31Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the driveshafts from
the transmission as follows, referring to
Chapter 8 for further details when required:
(a) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand
driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw
the heat shield.
(b) Pull the right-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission; be prepared to catch any
spilt oil.
(c) Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission - remember that the
unit is to be lowered out of the vehicle -
and ensure that the inner joint is not
turned through more than 18°.
(d) Prise the left-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission - again, be prepared for oil
spillage. Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission, and ensure that its
inner joint is not turned through more than
18°.
32Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, proceed as follows, referring to
Chapter 7, Part B and to Chapter 8 for further
details when required:
(a) Unscrew its centre bolt, then unbolt the
engine/transmission rear mounting
bracket from the transmission.
(b) Disconnect the fluid cooler pipe from the
rear of the transmission, and secure it
clear of the unit.
(c) Prise the left-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission; be prepared to catch any
spilt oil.
(d) Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission - remember that the
unit is to be lowered out of the vehicle -
and ensure that the inner joint is not
turned through more than 18°.
(e) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand
driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw
the heat shield.
(f) Pull the right-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission - again, be prepared for oil
spillage. Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission, and ensure that its
inner joint is not turned through more than
18°.
(g) Disconnect the fluid cooler pipe from the
front of the transmission, and secure it
clear of the unit.
33The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the right- and left-hand
mountings only, with all components which
connect it to the rest of the vehicle
disconnected or removed and secured well
clear of the unit. Make a final check that this is
the case, then ensure that the body is
securely supported, high enough to permit the
withdrawal of the engine/transmission unit
from underneath; allow for the height of the
engine dolly, if used.
34Take the weight of the engine/
transmission unit, using the lifting eyes
provided on the cylinder head. Unscrew the
six nuts securing the right-hand mounting
bracket, then the three nuts securing the left-
hand bracket. Warning: Do not put any part of
your body under the vehicle, or
under the engine/transmission
unit, when they are supported only by a
hoist or other lifting equipment.
35Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle (see illustration).
36Referring to the relevant part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
37While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
38Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings given; where settings are not quoted
in the Specifications Sections of the two Parts
of this Chapter, refer to the Specifications
Section of the relevant Chapter of this manual.
39In addition to the points noted in
paragraph 37 above, always renew any
circlips and self-locking nuts disturbed on
removal.
40Where wiring, etc, was secured by cable
ties which had to be cut on removal, ensure
that it is secured with new ties on refitting.
41With all overhaul operations completed,
refit the transmission to the engine as
described in Chapter 7.
42Manoeuvre the engine/transmission unit
under the vehicle, attach the hoist, and lift the
unit into position until the right- and left-hand
mountings can be reassembled; tighten the
(new) nuts only lightly at this stage. Do not yet
release the hoist; the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be taken by
the mountings until all are correctly aligned.
43Using new circlips, and ensuring that the
inner joints are not twisted through too great
an angle (see Chapter 8), refit the driveshafts.
Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, the procedure is the reverse of
that outlined in paragraph 31 above. Where
the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, proceed as follows, referring to
Chapter 7, Part B and to Chapter 8 for further
details when required:
(a) Refit the left-hand driveshaft.
(b) Using the clips provided to ensure that
they are correctly routed, and tighteningthe couplings to the specified torque
wrench setting where possible, reconnect
the fluid cooler pipes, first to the rear,
then to the front, of the transmission.
(c) Refit the right-hand driveshaft to the
transmission, refit the heat shield, and
tighten the support bearing nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(d) Refit the engine/transmission rear
mounting bracket to the transmission,
tightening the bolts to the torque wrench
setting specified, then refit the mounting,
tightening the centre bolt only lightly at
this stage.
44Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, do not forget to refit the
compressor; tighten the bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting, and plug in its
electrical connector.
45Using the marks and notes made on
removal, refit the cooling system hoses.
Where they are left disconnected or unclipped
for the time being, do not forget to secure
them at the appropriate moment during the
reassembly procedure. Refit the radiator (if
removed), using split pins to secure it in the
raised position.
46Offer up the subframe one side at a time,
and hold it by securing the suspension lower
arm balljoints to the steering knuckle
assemblies. Refit the subframe bolts, ensuring
that the washers are refitted correctly, and
tightening the bolts only lightly at this stage.
47The subframe must now be aligned on the
underbody. Ford specify the use of service
tool 15-097, which is a pair of tapered guides,
with attachments to hold them in the
subframe as it is refitted. However, since the
working diameter of these tools is 20.4 mm,
and since the corresponding aligning holes in
the subframe and underbody are respectively
21 mm and 22 mm in diameter, there is a
significant in-built tolerance possible in the
subframe’s alignment, even if the correct tools
are used. If these tools are not available, you
can align the subframe by eye, centring the
subframe aligning holes on those of the
underbody, and using the marks made on
removal for assistance. Alternatively, you can
align the subframe using a tapered drift (such
as a clutch-aligning tool), or even a deep
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•7
2B
4.35 Lowering the engine/transmission
unit out of the vehicle
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gear linkage heat shield. Reconnect the
gearchange linkage and transmission support
rods to the transmission, adjusting the linkage
using the marks made on removal (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
56Re-install the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
57Add coolant, engine oil and transmission
fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
58Run the engine, and check for proper
operation and the absence of leaks. Shut off
the engine, and recheck the fluid levels.
59Remember that, since the front suspension
subframe and steering gear have been
disturbed, the wheel alignment and steering
angles must be checked fully and carefully as
soon as possible, with any necessary
adjustments being made. This operation is best
carried out by an experienced mechanic, using
proper checking equipment; the vehicle should
therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similarly-
qualified person for attention.
1It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine
stand. These stands can often be hired from a
tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted
on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be
removed (Part A of this Chapter, Section 21)
so that the stand bolts can be tightened into
the end of the cylinder block/crankcase.
2If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it mounted on
blocks, on a sturdy workbench or on the floor.
Be extra-careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
3If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
washers, bolts and other small items.These
external components include the following:
(a) Alternator and brackets (Chapter 5).
(b) HT leads and spark plugs (Chapter 1).
(c) Thermostat and housing (Chapter 3).
(d) Dipstick tube.
(e) Fuel injection system components
(Chapter 4).
(f) All electrical switches and sensors - refer
to the appropriate Chapter.
(g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(h) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
(i) Engine/transmission mounting brackets
(Part A of this Chapter, Section 22).
(j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
4If you are obtaining a “short” engine (whichconsists of the engine cylinder
block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order.
(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(b) Timing belt, toothed pulleys and
tensioner, and timing belt inner cover
(Part A of this Chapter).
(c) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14).
(d) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
(e) Sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).
(f) Oil pump (Part A of this Chapter, Sec-
tion 16).
(g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 9).
(h) Crankshaft (Section 10).
6Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to the
introductory pages at the beginning of this
manual for further information.
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and
from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the
fact that some specialist tools are required for
the dismantling and inspection procedures,
and new components may not be readily
available (refer to Section 1 of this Part), it may
be more practical and economical for the
home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned
head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original head.
1Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets (Part A of this Chapter, Section 13),
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described (see illustration).
6 Cylinder head - dismantling
5 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•9
2B
6.1 Cylinder head components
1 Hydraulic tappet
2 Valve collets
3 Valve spring upper seat
4 Valve spring5 Valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seal
6 Oil-retaining valve
7 Engine lifting eye
8 Cylinder head gasket9 Inlet valve
10 Locating dowels
11 Exhaust valve
12 Cylinder head bolt
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Removal
8With the wheel and caliper removed,
remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 3.
9Mark the disc in relation to the hub, if it is to
be refitted.
10Remove the two special washers (where
fitted), and withdraw the disc over the wheel
studs (see illustrations).
Refitting
11Make sure that the disc and hub mating
surfaces are clean, then locate the disc on the
wheel studs. Align the previously-made marks
if the original disc is being refitted.
12Refit the two special washers, where
fitted.
13Refit the brake caliper and carrier bracket
with reference to Section 3.
14Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
15Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Note:To prevent uneven braking, BOTH rear
brake drums should be renewed at the same
time.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and engage 1st gear (or “P”).Loosen the relevant wheel nuts, jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the wheel.
2Remove the two special clips (where fitted),
and withdraw the brake drum over the wheel
studs. If the drum will not pass over the
shoes, it is possible to release the automatic
adjuster mechanism by prising out the small
rubber grommet near the centre of the
backplate, and inserting a screwdriver
through the small hole. The self-adjusting
ratchet can then be rotated, so that the brake
shoes move to their lowest setting (see
illustrations). Refit the rubber grommet
before proceeding.
3With the brake drum removed, clean the
dust from the drum, brake shoes, wheel
cylinder and backplate, using brake cleaner or
methylated spirit. Take care not to inhale the
dust, as it may contain asbestos.
Inspection
4Clean the inside surfaces of the brake
drum, then examine the internal friction
surface for signs of scoring or cracks. If it is
cracked, deeply scored, or has worn to a
diameter greater than the maximum given in
the Specifications, then it should be renewed,
together with the drum on the other side.
5Regrinding of the brake drum is not
recommended.
Refitting
6Locate the brake drum over the wheel
studs, and (where fitted) refit the special clips.Make sure that the drum contacts the hub
flange.
7Refit the wheel, then check the remaining
rear drum.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
Depress the brake pedal several times, in
order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism
and set the shoes at their normal operating
position.
9Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Warning: Drum brake shoes must
be renewed on both rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the shoes on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Also, the dust
created by wear of the shoes may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask
should be worn when working on the
brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts; use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1Remove the rear brake drums as described
in Section 5. Work on one brake assembly at a
time, using the assembled brake for reference
if necessary.
2Follow the accompanying illustrations for
the brake shoe renewal procedure (see
illustrations 6.2A to 6.2O). Be sure to stay in
order, and read the caption under each
illustration.
3If the wheel cylinder shows signs of fluid
leakage, or if there is any reason to suspect it
of being defective, inspect it now, as
described in the next Section.
4Fit the new brake shoes using a reversal of
the removal procedure, but set the eccentric
cam at its lowest position before assembling it
to the trailing shoe.
5Before refitting the brake drum, it should be
checked as described in Section 5.
6 Rear brake shoes - renewal
5 Rear brake drum - removal,
inspection and refitting
9•6 Braking system
4.10A Remove the special washers . . .4.10B . . . and withdraw the disc
5.2A Releasing the automatic adjuster
mechanism with a screwdriver inserted
through the small hole in the backplate5.2B Removing a rear brake drum
6.2A Note the fitted position of the springs
and the adjuster strut, then clean the
components with brake cleaner, and allow
to dry. Position a tray beneath the
backplate, to catch the fluid and residue
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bracket. Note that on Saloon and Hatchback
models, the pin is at the bottom of the caliper,
whereas on Estate models, it is at the top.
5Swivel the caliper away from the carrier
bracket, to expose the brake pads (see
illustrations).
6Disconnect the pad wear warning light wire
(when fitted) at the connector. Also unbolt the
brake hose bracket from the rear suspension
strut, to avoid straining the flexible hose.
7If necessary, the caliper may be completely
removed by prising off the cap and
unscrewing the pivot guide bolt. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or tie it to one side
with wire.
8Remove the pads from the carrier bracket.
9Brush all dust and dirt from the caliper,
pads and disc, but do not inhale it, as it may
be harmful to health. Scrape any corrosion
from the disc.
10Before fitting the new pads, screw the
caliper piston fully into its bore, at the same
time pressing the piston fully to the bottom of
the bore. Proprietary tools are available for
this operation - at a pinch, it may be possible
to use long-nosed pliers engaged with the
cut-outs in the piston. Brake fluid will be
displaced into the master cylinder reservoir,
so check first that there is enough space to
accept the fluid. If necessary, syphon off
some of the fluid.
11Fit the new pads using a reversal of the
removal procedure. On completion, firmly
depress the brake pedal a few times, to bring
the pads to their normal working position.
Check the level of the brake fluid in the
reservoir, and top-up if necessary.
12Give the vehicle a road test, to make sure
that the brakes are functioning correctly, and
to bed-in the new linings to the contours of
the disc. Remember that full braking
efficiency will not be obtained until the new
linings have bedded-in.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, and engage 1st
gear (or “P”). Loosen the rear wheel nuts, jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support it on
axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear
wheel.
2Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible hose
leading to the rear brake caliper. This will
minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent
operations.
3Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible hose.
4Remove the rear brake pads, and free the
caliper as described in Section 8.
5Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
caliper. On Saloon and Hatchback models,
the handbrake lever faces away from the
caliper, whereas on Estate models, it faces
towards the caliper (see illustrations).6Support the caliper and disconnect the
hydraulic hose, making sure that the hose is
not twisted or strained unduly. Once the
caliper is detached, place it to one side, and
plug the open hydraulic unions to keep dust
and dirt out.
7If necessary, unbolt the carrier bracket from
the knuckle.
Overhaul
8No overhaul procedures were available at
the time of writing, so check availability of
spares before dismantling the caliper. In
principle, the overhaul information given for
the front brake caliper will apply, noting that it
will be necessary to unscrew the piston from
the handbrake mechanism (see Section 8,
paragraph 10) before being able to expel the
piston from the caliper. On reassembly, push
the piston fully into the caliper, and screw it
back onto the handbrake mechanism. Do not
attempt to dismantle the handbrake
mechanism; if the mechanism is faulty, the
complete caliper assembly must be renewed.
Refitting
9Refit the caliper, and where applicable the
carrier bracket, by reversing the removal
operations. Tighten the mounting bolts and
wheel nuts to the specified torque, and do not
forget to remove the brake hose clamp from
the flexible brake hose.
9 Rear brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
Braking system 9•9
9
9.5A Rear brake caliper on
Saloon/Hatchback models (A) and Estate
models (B)
1 Caliper body
2 Frame
3 Brake pad spring clip
4 Handbrake cable lever facing away from
caliper
5 Handbrake cable lever facing towards
caliper
6 Bleed screw
7 Guide pin protective cap
8 Pad wear warning light connector
9 Flexible hydraulic hose connection
9.5B Handbrake operation on the rear
brake caliper
1 Piston
2 Automatic adjusting screw
3 Spring washers
4 Cam
5 Handbrake cable lever
8.5A Rear brake pad removal on Saloon
and Hatchback models
4 Brake caliper 5 Brake pads8.5B Rear brake pad removal on Estate
models
3 Brake caliper 5 Brake pads
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10Bleed the brake circuit according to the
procedure given in Section 15. Make sure
there are no leaks from the hose connections.
Test the brakes carefully before returning the
vehicle to normal service.
Refer to Section 4 (front disc inspection).
Once the rear caliper is removed, the
procedure is the same.
Removal
1Disconnect the low fluid level warning light
multi-plug from the fluid reservoir filler cap
(see illustration).Unscrew and remove the
cap (note that the filler cap should not be
inverted). Draw off the hydraulic fluid from the
reservoir, using an old battery hydrometer or a
poultry baster. Do notsyphon the fluid by
mouth; it is poisonous. Any brake fluid spilt on
paintwork should be washed off with clean
water, without delay - brake fluid is also a
highly-effective paint-stripper!
2Identify the locations of each brake pipe on
the master cylinder. On non-ABS models,
there are four pipes; the two rear brake pipes
are attached to PCR (pressure-consciousrelief) valves on the master cylinder. On ABS
models, there are only two pipes, which lead
to the ABS hydraulic unit (see illustration).
3Place rags beneath the master cylinder to
catch spilt hydraulic fluid.
4Clean around the hydraulic union nuts.
Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the
hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.
5Unscrew the mounting nuts, and withdraw
the master cylinder from the studs on the front
of the servo unit. If the nuts are tight, a split
ring spanner should be used in preference to
an open-ended spanner. Plug or cap open
unions, to keep dust and dirt out.
6Recover the gasket from the master cylinder.
7If the master cylinder is faulty, it must be
renewed. At the time of writing, no overhaul
kits were available.
Refitting
8Clean the contact surfaces of the master
cylinder and servo.
9Locate a new gasket on the master cylinder.
10Position the master cylinder on the studs
on the servo unit. Refit and tighten the nuts to
the specified torque.
11Carefully insert the hydraulic lines in the
apertures in the master cylinder, then tightenthe union nuts. Make sure that the nuts enter
their threads correctly.
12Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
13Bleed the hydraulic system as described
in Section 15.
14Refit the reservoir filler cap, and reconnect
the multi-plug for the low fluid level warning
light.
15Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, move the
driver’s seat fully to the rear, to allow
maximum working area.
2Remove the ashtray, then unscrew the
screws and remove the lower facia panel.
3Prise the hairpin clip from the right-hand
end of the pedal pivot shaft, and remove the
washer (see illustration).
4Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the pushrod. The nut is located
near the top of the pedal (see illustrations).
12 Brake pedal-
removal and refitting
11 Master cylinder -
removal and refitting
10 Rear brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
9•10 Braking system
11.1 Brake fluid reservoir and low level
warning light multi-plug
11.2 Master cylinder connections
A Non-ABS models
B ABS models
1 Brake fluid reservoir
2 Master cylinder3 PCR valves for rear brakes
4 Primary brake hydraulic circuit (front right/rear left)
5 Secondary brake hydraulic circuit (front left/rear right)
12.3 Removing the hairpin clip from the
right-hand end of the brake pedal pivot shaft12.4A Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the pushrod . . .12.4B . . . and remove the tube from the
pushrod
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5Press the pedal pivot shaft to the left,
through the mounting bracket, just far enough
to allow the pedal to be withdrawn. On
manual transmission models, leave the blue
nylon spacer (located between the clutch and
brake pedals) on the pivot shaft (see
illustration). On automatic transmission
models, the shaft can be removed completely
(see illustration).
6With the pedal removed, prise out the
bushes from each side. If necessary, also
remove the pushrod trunnion and the rubber
pad. Renew the components as necessary
(see illustrations).
Refitting
7Prior to refitting the pedal, apply a little
grease to the pivot shaft, pedal bushes and
trunnion.
8Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but make sure that the pedal
bushes are correctly located, and that the
pedal shaft “D” section locates in the right-
hand side of the pedal bracket. Also make
sure that the hairpin clip is correctly
located.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the master cylinder and the
vacuum servo unit as described in Sec-
tions 11 and 16. If wished, the master cylinder
may be left attached to the servo unit.
3Working inside the passenger
compartment, fold down the covering from
the front of both front footwells.
4Have an assistant support the cross-link
assembly from inside the engine
compartment.
5Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts on
each side of the bulkhead, and remove the
link assembly from inside the engine
compartment. If necessary, have the assistanthold the bolt heads from inside the engine
compartment while the nuts are being
loosened.
6Clean the cross-link components, and
examine the bushes for wear. Renew the
bushes if necessary.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Refer to Sections 11 and 16 when
refitting the master cylinder and vacuum servo
unit.
Inspection
1Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and support on axle stands.
2Check for signs of leakage at the pipe
unions, then examine the flexible hoses for
signs of cracking, chafing and fraying.
3The brake pipes should be examined
carefully for signs of dents, corrosion or other
damage. Corrosion should be scraped off,
and if the depth of pitting is significant, the
pipes renewed. This is particularly likely in
those areas underneath the vehicle body
where the pipes are exposed and
unprotected.
4Renew any defective brake pipes and/or
hoses.
Removal
5If a section of pipe or hose is to be
removed, loss of brake fluid can be reduced
by unscrewing the filler cap, and completely
sealing the top of the reservoir with cling film
or adhesive tape. Alternatively, the reservoir
can be emptied (see Section 11).
6To remove a section of pipe, hold the
adjoining hose union nut with a spanner to
prevent it from turning, then unscrew the
union nut at the end of the pipe, and release it.
14 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -
inspection, removal and
refitting
13 Brake pedal-to-servo cross-
link (right-hand-drive models
only)- removal and refitting
Braking system 9•11
9
12.6A Prise out the bushes . . .12.6B . . . from each side of the pedal . . .12.6C . . . and remove the pushrod
trunnion
12.5A Leave the nylon spacer (arrowed) in
position on the pivot shaft (left-hand-drive
model shown, right-hand-drive similar)
12.5B Brake pedal components -
automatic transmission models
1 Pedal 3 Pivot shaft 5 Washer
2 Rubber pad 4 Bush 6 Hairpin clip
If any brake fluid is spilt onto
the bodywork, it must be
washed off without delay -
brake fluid is also a highly-
effective paint-stripper!
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(a) Apply petroleum jelly or clean engine oil
to the sensor’s sealing O-ring.
(b) Locate the sensor fully in the cylinder
head, and wipe off any surplus lubricant
before securing it.
(c) Tighten the screw to the specified torque
wrench setting.
Coolant temperature sensor
48Refer to Chapter 3, Section 6.
Intake air temperature sensor
49Remove the air mass meter and resonator
(refer to Chapter 4) to gain access to the
sensor (see illustration).
50Releasing its clip, unplug the sensor’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the sensor
from the resonator.
51Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the sensor to the specified
torque wrench setting; if it is overtightened, its
tapered thread may crack the resonator.
Throttle potentiometer
52Remove the plenum chamber (see
Chapter 4). Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
large electrical connector (next to the fuel
pressure regulator).
53Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
potentiometer’s electrical connector. Remove
the retaining screws, and withdraw the unit
from the throttle housing (see illustration). Do
notforce the sensor’s centre to rotate past itsnormal operating sweep; the unit will be
seriously damaged.
54Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) Ensure that the potentiometer is correctly
orientated, by locating its centre on the D-
shaped throttle shaft (throttle closed), and
aligning the potentiometer body so that
the bolts pass easily into the throttle
housing.
(b) Tighten the screws evenly and securely
(but do not overtighten them, or the
potentiometer body will be cracked).
Vehicle speed sensor
55The sensor is mounted at the base of the
speedometer drive cable, and is removed with
the speedometer drive pinion (see
illustration). Refer to the relevant Section of
Chapter 7, Part A or B, as applicable.
Power steering pressure switch
56Releasing its clip, unplug the switch’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the switch
(see illustration). Place a wad of rag
underneath, to catch any spilt fluid. If a
sealing washer is fitted, renew it if it is worn or
damaged.
57Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely, then
top-up the fluid reservoir (see Chapter 1) to
replace any fluid lost from the system, and
bleed out any trapped air (see Chapter 10,
Section 33).
Exhaust gas pressure differential
sensor
Note:See also Section 6, illustration 6.21.
58If better access is required, remove the
resonator (see Chapter 4).
59Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s electrical connector. Remove the
two retaining screws, withdraw the unit from
the bulkhead mounting bracket, then
disconnect the two vacuum hoses. Note that
the hoses are of different sizes, to ensure that
they cannot be mixed up on reconnection.
60Check the condition of both hoses, and
renew them if necessary (see Chapter 1).
61Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the hoses are securely
connected to the correct unions.
Oxygen sensor
Note:The sensor is delicate, and will not work
if it is dropped or knocked, if its power supply
is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are
used on it.
62Release the sensor’s electrical connector
from its bracket on the engine/transmission
front mounting, and unplug it to disconnect
the sensor (see illustration).
63Raising and supporting the front of the
vehicle if required to remove the sensor from
underneath, unscrew the sensor from the
exhaust system front downpipe; collect the
sealing washer (where fitted).
64On refitting, clean the sealing washer
Emissions control systems 6•13
6
4.56 Power steering pressure switch is
screwed into pipe at right-hand rear end of
engine4.62 Oxygen sensor is screwed into
exhaust system front downpipe . . .
4.49 Intake air temperature sensor
(arrowed) is screwed into underside of air
intake resonator4.53 Throttle potentiometer is secured by
two screws (arrowed)
4.55 Vehicle speed sensor “A”, with its
electrical connector “B”
4.45 Camshaft position sensor is located
at left-hand rear end of cylinder head
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