1993 FORD MONDEO auxiliary battery location

specifications were available from Ford, but a
typical reading would be in excess of 12 bars.
All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; any difference greater than 10%
indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the
compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine; low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn
piston rings. A low compression reading on the
first stroke, which does not build up during
successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a
blown head gasket (a cracked head could also
be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
8If the pressure in any cylinder is
considerably lower than the others, introduce
a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder
through its spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
9If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
10A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
11If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faulty
hydraulic tappet could be the cause.
12If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the
cylinder head should be removed and
decarbonised.
13On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs, then reconnect the ignition system and
fuel pump.
General
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in its travel up-and-down its cylinder bore
that each piston reaches as the crankshaftrotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top of the compression stroke and
again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the
purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to
the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the
top of its compression stroke.
2It is useful for several servicing procedures
to be able to position the engine at TDC.
3No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right-
hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right-
and left-hand are always quoted as seen from
the driver’s seat). Note that the crankshaft
rotates clockwise when viewed from the
right-hand side of the vehicle.
Locating TDC
4Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1).
5Disconnect both battery leads - see
Chapter 5, Section 1 - unless the starter
motor is to be used to turn the engine.
6Apply the handbrake and ensure that the
transmission is in neutral, then jack up the
front right-hand side of the vehicle and
support on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel.
7Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
8It is best to rotate the crankshaft using a
spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt;
however, it is possible also to use the starter
motor (switched on either by an assistant
using the ignition key, or by using a remote
starter switch) to bring the engine close to
TDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starter
is used, be sure to disconnect the battery
leads immediately it is no longer required.
9Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation
(clockwise, seen from the right-hand side of the
vehicle) the first pair of notches are irrelevant to
the vehicles covered in this manual, while the
second pair indicate TDC when aligned with
the rear edge of the raised mark on the sump.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the
second pair of notches align with the edge of
the sump mark; use a straight edge extended
out from the sump if greater accuracy is
required (see illustrations).10Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC,
one of them on the compression stroke.
Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder
exhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the
vehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1
cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the
lobe is pointing horizontally forwards, rotate
the crankshaft one full turn (360°) clockwise
until the pulley notches align again, and the
lobe is pointing to the rear and slightly down.
No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the
compression stroke.
11Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned
at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for
any of the other cylinders can then be located
by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
12An alternative method of locating TDC is
to remove the cylinder head cover (see
Section 5) and to rotate the crankshaft
(clockwise, as described in paragraph 8
above) until the inlet valves for the cylinder
concerned have opened and just closed
again. Insert a length of wooden dowel
(approximately 150 mm/6 in long) or similar
into the spark plug hole until it rests on the
piston crown, and slowly further rotate the
crankshaft (taking care not to allow the dowel
to be trapped in the cylinder) until the dowel
stops rising - the piston is now at the top of
its compression stroke, and the dowel can be
removed.
13There is a “dead” area around TDC (as
the piston stops rising, pauses and then
begins to descend) which makes difficult the
exact location of TDC by this method; if
accuracy is required, either establish carefully
the exact mid-point of the dead area, or refer
to the timing marks (paragraph 9 above).
1Unplug the two electrical connectors and
disconnect the vacuum hose (where fitted),
then remove the air cleaner assembly cover
with the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
5 Cylinder head cover-
removal and refitting
4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston - locating
2A•6 In-car engine repair procedures
4.9A Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .4.9B . . . using a straight edge extended
out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required5.4 Disconnecting crankcase breather
hose from cylinder head cover union
procarmanuals.com

sender’s electrical connector, and use a
jumper wire to connect the white/red wire to a
clean earth point (bare metal) on the engine.
Switch on the ignition without starting the
engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew
the sender.
5If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Removal
6Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chap-
ter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8Disconnect the expansion tank coolant
hose and the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing’s water outlet, then
disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat.
9Unplug the electrical connector from the
sender (see illustration).
10Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.
Refitting
11Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sender’s threads.
Screw in the sender and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting, and plug in
its electrical connector.
12Reconnect the hoses and refit the
resonator, top-up the cooling system (see
Chapter 1) and run the engine. Check for
leaks and proper gauge operation.
Coolant temperature sensor
Testing
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
14Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
15Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor (see illustration).
16Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. If the
sensor’s temperature is varied - by removing
it (see below) and placing it in a freezer for a
while, or by warming it gently - its resistance
should alter accordingly.
17If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18On completion, plug in the connector and
refit the resonator.
Removal
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
20Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
21With the engine completely cool, remove
the expansion tank filler cap to release any
pressure, then refit the cap. Provided you
work swiftly and plug the opening as soon as
the sensor is unscrewed, coolant loss will thus
be minimised; this will avoid the draining of
the complete cooling system which would
otherwise be necessary (see Chapter 1).
22Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor.
23Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it. If the
cooling system has not been drained, plug the
opening as quickly as possible.
Refitting
24Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sensor’s threads.
Remove the material used to plug the sensor
hole (where applicable), and quickly install the
sensor to prevent coolant loss. Tighten the
sensor to the specified torque wrench setting,
and plug in its electrical connector.
25Refit the resonator, top-up the cooling
system (see Chapter 1) and run the engine,
checking for leaks.
Coolant low level switch
Testing
26The switch is a reed-type unit mounted in
the bottom of the cooling system expansion
tank, activated by a magnetic float. If the
coolant level falls to the “MIN” level or less,
the appropriate bulb lights in the warning
display.
27If the bulb fails to light during the 5-
second bulb test, check the bulb, and renew if
necessary as described in Chapter 12.
28To check the switch itself, unplug its
electrical connector, and use an ohmmeter to
measure the resistance across the switchterminals. With the float up, a resistance of
90 ohms should be measured; when it is
down, the resistance should increase to
approximately 150 kilohms.
29If the results obtained from the check are
significantly different from those expected,
the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
30If the switch and bulb are proven to be
sound, the fault must be in the wiring or in the
auxiliary warning control assembly (see
Chapter 12).
Removal
31Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
32Remove the expansion tank (see Sec-
tion 7).
33Unplug the switch electrical connector.
34Release the switch by twisting its retainer
anti-clockwise, then withdraw it.
Refitting
35Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Refill the cooling system (see
Chapter 1). Start the engine, and check for
coolant leaks when it is fully warmed-up.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Radiator
Removal
Note:If leakage is the reason for removing the
radiator, bear in mind that minor leaks can
often be cured using a radiator sealant with
the radiator in situ.
1Remove the radiator fan and shroud
assembly (see Section 5).
2Disconnect the bottom hose from the
radiator.
3If the vehicle has automatic transmission,
disconnect the fluid cooler lines, and plug the
lines and fittings.
4If the vehicle has air conditioning, unscrew
the condenser mounting nuts or bolts, detach
the condenser from the radiator, and tie it to
the engine compartment front crossmember.
7 Radiator and expansion tank -
removal, inspection and refitting
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
6.9 Location (arrowed) of coolant
temperature gauge sender6.15 Location (arrowed) of coolant
temperature sensor
procarmanuals.com

constantly monitors the oxygen content of the
exhaust gas. If the percentage of oxygen in
the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical
signal is sent to the ECU. The ECU processes
this information, and then sends a command
to the fuel injection system, telling it to change
the air/fuel mixture; the end result is an air/fuel
mixture ratio which is constantly maintained
at a predetermined ratio, regardless of driving
conditions. This happens in a fraction of a
second, and goes on almost all the time while
the engine is running - the exceptions are that
the ECU cuts out the system and runs the
engine on values pre-programmed
(“mapped”) into its memory both while the
oxygen sensor is reaching its normal
operating temperature after the engine has
been started from cold, and when the throttle
is fully open for full acceleration.
In the event of a sensor malfunction, a
back-up circuit will take over, to provide
driveability until the problem is identified and
fixed.
Precautions
(a) Always disconnect the power by
uncoupling the battery terminals - see
Section 1 of Chapter 5 - before removing
any of the electronic control system’s
electrical connectors.
(b) When installing a battery, be particularly
careful to avoid reversing the positive and
negative battery leads.
(c) Do not subject any components of the
system (especially the ECU) to severe
impact during removal or installation.
(d) Do not be careless during fault diagnosis.
Even slight terminal contact can invalidate
a testing procedure, and damage one of
the numerous transistor circuits.
(e) Never attempt to work on the ECU, to test
it (with any kind of test equipment), or to
open its cover.
(f) If you are inspecting electronic control
system components during rainy weather,
make sure that water does not enter any
part. When washing the engine
compartment, do not spray these parts or
their electrical connectors with water.
General
The various components of the fuel, ignition
and emissions control systems (not forgetting
the same ECU’s control of sub-systems such
as the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning
and automatic transmission, where
appropriate) are so closely interlinked that
diagnosis of a fault in any one component is
virtually impossible using traditional methods.
Working on simpler systems in the past, the
experienced mechanic may well have been
able to use personal skill and knowledge
immediately to pinpoint the cause of a fault, or
quickly to isolate the fault, by elimination;however, with an engine management system
integrated to this degree, this is not likely to
be possible in most instances, because of the
number of symptoms that could arise from
even a minor fault.
So that the causes of faults can be quickly
and accurately traced and rectified, the ECU
is provided with a built-in self-diagnosis
facility, which detects malfunctions in the
system’s components. When a fault occurs,
three things happen: the ECU identifies the
fault, stores a corresponding code in its
memory, and (in most cases) runs the system
using back-up values pre-programmed
(“mapped”) into its memory; some form of
driveability is thus maintained, to enable the
vehicle to be driven to a garage for attention.
Any faults that may have occurred are
indicated in the form of three-digit codes
when the system is connected (via the built-in
diagnosis or self-test connectors, as
appropriate) to special diagnostic equipment -
this points the user in the direction of the
faulty circuit, so that further tests can pinpoint
the exact location of the fault.
Given below is the procedure that would be
followed by a Ford technician to trace a fault
from scratch. Should your vehicle’s engine
management system develop a fault, read
through the procedure and decide how much
you can attempt, depending on your skill and
experience and the equipment available to
you, or whether it would be simpler to have
the vehicle attended to by your local Ford
dealer. If you are concerned about the
apparent complexity of the system, however,
remember the comments made in the fourth
paragraph of Section 1 of this Chapter; the
preliminary checks require nothing but care,
patience and a few minor items of equipment,
and may well eliminate the majority of faults.
(a) Preliminary checks
(b) Fault code read-out *
(c) Check ignition timing and base idle
speed. Recheck fault codes to establish
whether fault has been cured or not *
(d) Carry out basic check of ignition system
components. Recheck fault codes to
establish whether fault has been cured or
not *
(e) Carry out basic check of fuel system
components. Recheck fault codes to
establish whether fault has been cured or
not *
(f) If fault is still not located, carry out system
test *
Note:Operations marked with an asterisk
require special test equipment.
Preliminary checks
Note:When carrying out these checks to
trace a fault, remember that if the fault has
appeared only a short time after any part of
the vehicle has been serviced or overhauled,
the first place to check is where that work was
carried out, however unrelated it may appear,
to ensure that no carelessly-refitted
components are causing the problem.If you are tracing the cause of a “partial”
engine fault, such as lack of performance, in
addition to the checks outlined below, check
the compression pressures (see Part A of
Chapter 2) and bear in mind the possibility
that one of the hydraulic tappets might be
faulty, producing an incorrect valve clearance.
Check also that the fuel filter has been
renewed at the recommended intervals.
If the system appears completely dead,
remember the possibility that the
alarm/inhibitor system may be responsible.
1The first check for anyone without special
test equipment is to switch on the ignition,
and to listen for the fuel pump (the sound of
an electric motor running, audible from
beneath the rear seats); assuming there is
sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump should
start and run for approximately one or two
seconds, then stop, each time the ignition is
switched on. If the pump runs continuously all
the time the ignition is switched on, the
electronic control system is running in the
back-up (or “limp-home”) mode referred to by
Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
ECU itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time trying to test
the system without such facilities.
2If the fuel pump is working correctly (or not
at all), a considerable amount of fault
diagnosis is still possible without special test
equipment. Start the checking procedure as
follows.
3Open the bonnet and check the condition
of the battery connections - remake the
connections or renew the leads if a fault is
found (Chapter 5). Use the same techniques
to ensure that all earth points in the engine
compartment provide good electrical contact
through clean, metal-to-metal joints, and that
all are securely fastened. (In addition to the
earth connection at the engine lifting eye and
that from the transmission to the
body/battery, there is one earth connection
behind each headlight assembly, and one
below the power steering fluid reservoir.)
4Referring to the information given in
Chapter 12 and in the wiring diagrams at the
back of this manual, check that all fuses
protecting the circuits related to the engine
management system are in good condition.
Fit new fuses if required; while you are there,
check that all relays are securely plugged into
their sockets.
5Next work methodically around the engine
compartment, checking all visible wiring, and
the connections between sections of the
wiring loom. What you are looking for at this
stage is wiring that is obviously damaged by
chafing against sharp edges, or against
moving suspension/transmission components
and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being
trapped or crushed between carelessly-
refitted components, or melted by being
forced into contact with hot engine castings,
3 Diagnosis system -
general information
6•4 Emissions control systems
procarmanuals.com

Fuses (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
19 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated door mirrors
20 10 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front/rear wiper motor (circuit breaker)
21 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front electric windows (only)
21 40 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear electric windows
22 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS module
23 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reversing lights
24 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop-lights
25 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system/double-locking/anti-theft alarm
26 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights
27 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter
28 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system
29 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
30 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and auxiliary warning system
31 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument panel illumination
32 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio
33 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (left-hand side)
34 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and digital clock
35 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (right-hand side)
36 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air bag
37 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
38 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Adaptive damping
Relays (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R1 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daytime running lights (left-hand-drive, but not all countries) or dim-
dip lights (UK)
R2 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (high speed)
R3 Blue (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning cut-out
R3 Brown (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning in conjunction with Diesel engine
R4 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen heater time delay
R5 Dark green (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R5 Black (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R6 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starter solenoid
R7 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horns
R8 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
R9 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlights
R10 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlights
R11 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU power supply (petrol), cold start (Diesel)
Relays (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R12 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior, courtesy and footwell lights
R13 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
R14 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
R15 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper motor
R16 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition
Auxiliary relays (not in the fuseboxes)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected Location
R17 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel glow plug Battery tray
R18 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “One-touch down” Driver’s door
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . driver’s window relay
R19 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speed control cut-off Central fuse box bracket the
below instrument panel
R20 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system Bulb module bracket
R21 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear screen wiper interval Bulb module bracket
R22 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights (left-hand-drive only) Interface module bracket
R23 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction indicators Steering column
R24 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (left-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R25 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (right-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R26 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated seats Door lock module bracket
12•2 Body electrical system
procarmanuals.com

remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease, or by spraying on (at
regular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer
such as Holts Damp Start, or a water-
dispersant lubricant such as Holts Wet Start.
Note:It is important to note that the ignition
switch and the appropriate electrical circuit
must always be switched off before any of the
fuses (or relays) are removed and renewed. In
the event of the fuse/relay unit having to be
removed, the battery earth lead must be
disconnected. When reconnecting the battery,
reference should be made to Chapter 5.
1Fuses are designed to break a circuit when
a predetermined current is reached, in order
to protect components and wiring which
could be damaged by excessive current flow.
Any excessive current flow will be due to a
fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (see
Section 2). The main fusebox, which also
carries some relays, is located inside the
vehicle below the facia panel on the
passenger’s side, and is accessed by a lever
behind the glovebox (see illustration).
2A central timer module is located on the
bottom of the main fusebox. This module
contains the time control elements for the
heated rear window, interior lights and
intermittent wiper operation. The module also
activates a warning buzzer/chime when the
vehicle is left with the lights switched on, or if
a vehicle fitted with automatic transmission is
not parked in position “P”.
3The auxiliary fusebox is located on the front
left-hand side of the engine compartment,
and is accessed by unclipping and removing
the cover. The auxiliary fusebox also contains
some relays (see illustration). Each circuit is
identified by numbers on the main fusebox
and on the inside of the auxiliary fusebox
cover. Reference to the fuse chart in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter will
indicate the circuits protected by each fuse.
Plastic tweezers are attached to the main
fusebox and to the inside face of the auxiliary
fuse and block cover, to remove and fit the
fuses and relays.
4To remove a fuse, use the tweezers
provided to pull it out of the holder. Slide the
fuse sideways from the tweezers. The wire
within the fuse is clearly visible, and it will be
broken if the fuse is blown (see illustration).
5Always renew a fuse with one of an
identical rating. Never substitute a fuse of a
higher rating, or make temporary repairs using
wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or
even fire, could result. The fuse rating is
stamped on top of the fuse. Never renew a
fuse more than once without tracing the
source of the trouble.
6Spare fuses of various current ratings areprovided in the cover of the auxiliary fusebox.
Note that if the vehicle is to be laid up for a
long period, fuse 34 in the main fusebox
should be removed, to prevent the ancillary
electrical components from discharging the
battery.
7Relays are electrically-operated switches,
which are used in certain circuits. The various
relays can be removed from their respective
locations by carefully pulling them from the
sockets. Each relay in the fuseboxes has a
plastic bar on its upper surface to enable the
use of the tweezers. The locations and
3 Fuses, relays and timer
module- testing and renewal
Body electrical system 12•5
12
3.4 The fuses can be checked visually to
determine if they are blown
3.1 Main fusebox layout
1 Fuse/relay removal tweezers 2 Diode 3 Multi-plug connections
3.3 Auxiliary fusebox layout
1 Fuses 1 to 3 3 Relays R2, R5 and R6 5 Relay sockets for relays R1 and R4
2 Fuses 4 to 8, 11 to 14 4 Relays R7 to R11 6 Diode
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