1993 FORD MONDEO ECO mode

Main light, auxiliary foglight and rear
foglight combination switch
Note:From July 1994 a rvised main light
switch was introduced; this was fitted as
standard in production. If the revised switch is
to be fitted to a pre-July 1994 model, an
adapter lead will also be required to prevent
electrical damage ocurring. Refer to your Ford
dealer for further information
9Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
10Carefully prise the switch panel from the
facia, using a screwdriver against a cloth pad
to prevent damage to the facia (see
illustration).
11Disconnect the multi-plugs and withdraw
the switch panel (see illustration).
12Unscrew the four mounting screws, and
remove the switch from the panel.
13Pull off the switch control knob, and
remove the blanking plug and retainer.
14Depress the plastic tabs, and remove the
front cover and switch.
Instrument light rheostat
15Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
16Carefully prise the light switch panel from
the facia, using a screwdriver against a cloth
pad to prevent damage to the facia.
17Disconnect the multi-plugs from the rear
of the switch, then remove the screws and
withdraw the instrument light rheostat from
the panel.
Door mirror control switch
18Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
19Carefully prise the switch from the facia,
using a screwdriver against a cloth pad to
prevent damage to the facia.
20Disconnect the multi-plug and withdraw
the switch.
Direction indicator, dipped beam and
hazard flasher multi-function switch
21Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
22Remove the rubber gaiters and locking
rings, then remove the screws and take off the
steering column upper shroud.23Depress the retaining lug and withdraw
the switch assembly, then disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
24With the switch assembly removed, pull
out the direction indicator relay if required.
Horn switch (steering wheel without
air bag)
Note:When an air bag is fitted, the horn
switch is removed with the air bag unit. Refer
to Section 28.
25Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
26Carefully pull off the padded centre of the
steering wheel which incorporates the horn
switch.
27Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch assembly.
Luggage compartment switch
28Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
29With the tailgate/bootlid open, pull the
weatherstrip from the centre of the rear cross
panel.
30Carefully prise out the trim fasteners from
the bottom corners of the rear trim, then
unscrew the retaining screws and remove the
trim panel.
31Disconnect the wiring multi-plug, and pull
out the switch.
Electrically-operated window switch
(single)
32Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
33Carefully prise out the switch from the
door inner trim panel, using a cloth pad to
prevent damage to the trim.
34Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Electrically-operated window switch
(multiple) and isolator
35Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
36Prise the blanking cap from inside the
inner door handle cavity, and remove the
screw.
37Hold the inner door handle in its open
position, then remove the bezel and withdraw
it over the handle.38Depress the retaining lug and remove the
switch assembly, then disconnect the multi-
plug.
Electrically-operated sunroof switch
and traction control switch
39Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
40Carefully prise out the switch with a
screwdriver, using a cloth pad to prevent
damage to the trim.
41Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Handbrake-on warning switch
42Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
43Remove the centre console as described
in Chapter 11.
44Disconnect the multi-plug, then remove
the screw and withdraw the switch from the
handbrake lever mounting bracket (see
illustration).
“Economy/Sport” mode switch
(automatic transmission models)
45Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
46Select Neutral, then prise out the selector
indicator panel, using a cloth pad to prevent
damage to the surrounding trim.
47Push the switch out of the panel, and
disconnect the multi-plug.
Body electrical system 12•7
12
4.44 Disconnecting the multi-plug from
the handbrake lever
4.10 Prising out the light switch4.11 Disconnecting the multi-plugs from
the light switch and rheostat4.23 Removing the direction indicator,
dipped beam and hazard flasher multi-
function switch. Direction indicator relay
(flasher unit) is attached
procarmanuals.com

the specified mileage (or time) since the last
service has been reached.
4To reset the service interval system and
turn off the light, a switch inside the glovebox
must be depressed for a minimum of 4
seconds with the ignition switched on. This
should be carried out by a Ford dealer if the
vehicle is still in the warranty period.
Component renewal
5The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the auxiliary warning
system components. Disconnect the battery
negative (earth) lead before commencing
work (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). Refitting
procedures are a reversal of removal.
Display warning bulb
6Remove the control assembly.
7Prise off the cover, and pull out the relevant
bulb and bulbholder.
Low air temperature warning sender
unit
8Remove the front bumper.
9Unclip the sender unit and disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
Engine oil level sensor
10Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11Place a container beneath the oil level
sensor, to catch any spilt oil.12Unscrew the screws and remove the
cover from the sensor.
13Disconnect the multi-plug.
14Unscrew and remove the sensor, and
remove the seal (see illustration).
Door ajar sensor
15Remove the door lock as described in
Chapter 11, Section 14.
16Unclip the sensor and disconnect the
multi-plug.
Low coolant warning switch
17Refer to Chapter 3, Section 6.
Low washer fluid switch
18Disconnect the multi-plug from the
washer fluid reservoir.
19Drain or syphon out the fluid from the
reservoir.
20Using a screwdriver, lever out the switch
from the reservoir (see illustration).
Service indicator reset switch
21Remove the glove compartment lid as
described in Chapter 11, Section 32.
22Carefully lever out the switch using a
small screwdriver.
23Remove the rear cover and disconnect
the wiring (see illustration).
Control assembly
24Remove the instrument panel surround,
referring to Section 10.25Unscrew the mounting screws,
disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
assembly.
Bulb failure module
26Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering wheel.
27Unclip the bulb failure module and
disconnect the multi-plug.
Note: From November 1993, for added
security, a complex Bosch immobiliser system
was fitted to some models. For further details,
refer to your Ford dealer.
1All UK models are fitted with an anti-theft
alarm system, incorporating movement
sensors and an ignition immobiliser. The
system is activated when the vehicle is
locked.
2The system includes a start inhibitor circuit,
which makes it impossible to start the engine
with the system armed.
3The movement sensors consist of two
ultrasonic units, located in the “B” pillars,
incorporating transmitters and receivers (see
illustrations). The receivers check that the
echo frequency matches the original
frequency. If there is any significant
difference, the system triggers the alarm.
20 Anti-theft alarm system- general
information
12•18 Body electrical system
19.9 Low air temperature sender unit
removal
1 Clip 2 Sender unit 3 Multi-plug19.14 Engine oil level sensor removal
1 Cover 2 Multi-plug 3 Sensor 4 Seal19.20 Removing the low washer fluid
switch
19.23 Service indicator switch removal
1 Lever out the switch 2 Cover 3 Wiring20.3A Disconnecting a movement sensor
multi-plug20.3B Removing a movement sensor
procarmanuals.com

4The system module is located on a bracket
beneath the right-hand side of the facia. The
set and reset switches are located in a
housing by the lock barrel holder in the doors,
tailgate or bootlid.
5To allow temporary opening of the tailgate
or bootlid, an inhibit switch is fitted to the lock
barrel. This suppresses the alarm system until
the tailgate or bootlid is closed again.
6Where remote central locking is fitted, an
infra-red receiver is located on the exterior
door handle (see illustration). Note that
excessive heat can destroy this receiver;
therefore, it should be covered with aluminium
tape if (for instance) a paint-drying heat
process is to be used.
7The alarm system is fitted with its own horn.
On Hatchback and Saloon models, it is
located on the left-hand side of the luggage
compartment; on Estate models, it is located
on the right-hand side of the luggage
compartment (see illustration).
8The alarm system incorporates a self-test
function, which can be activated by operating
the bonnet switch or one of the lock position
switches eight times within 10 seconds.
During the check, the horn or buzzer issues
acoustic signals which should occur every
time a door, bonnet or tailgate is opened. If
the doors are double-locked, the signal will
occur when something is moved within the
passenger compartment. A more
comprehensive test can be made using the
Ford FDS 2000 diagnostic tester.
9The door lock switches associated with the
alarm system are located behind the door trim
panels (see illustration).
1Cruise control is available as an option on
some models.
2The cruise control system components are
shown in the accompanying illustration (see
illustration). The system is active at road
speeds between 25 mph and 125 mph.
3The system comprises an electronic speed
control unit with integral actuator and
21 Cruise control system -
general information
Body electrical system 12•19
12
21.2 Cruise control component location on left-hand drive models
1 Speed control unit
2 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
3 Throttle valve actuator
4 Interrupt relay (vehicles with traction control
system only)5 Stop-light switch, brake and clutch pedal-
operated disable switches
6 Driver’s controls (buttons on steering wheel)
20.6 Infra-red receiver location on the
door handle
1 Receiver 2 Infra-red eye on the door handle20.7 Alarm system horn location on
Hatchback and Saloon models20.10 Alarm system door lock switch
removal
1 Clips (arrowed) 2 Multi-plug
procarmanuals.com

headlamp washer pump, from the reservoir
(see illustration).
7Remove the rubber seals.
Washer nozzle (windscreen)
8With the bonnet supported in its open
position, carefully disconnect the washer tube
from the bottom of the nozzle.
9Using a screwdriver and working from
under the bonnet, carefully prise out the
nozzle. Where necessary, disconnect the
wiring for the nozzle heater.
Washer nozzle (rear window)
10With the tailgate open, carefully pull off
the inner trim panel from the top of the
tailgate.
11Pull the washer tube from the bottom of
the nozzle (see illustration).
12Carefully prise the nozzle out of the
tailgate glass, then prise out the rubber
grommet (see illustrations). Where
necessary, disconnect the wiring for the
nozzle heater.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. In the case of the washer nozzles,
press them in until they are fully engaged. The
rear window washer nozzle must rest against
the rubber seal.
Note:Special tools are required to remove the
radio.
Coding
1If a Ford “Keycode” unit is fitted, and the
unit and/or the battery is disconnected, the
unit will not function again on reconnection
until the correct security code is entered.
Details of this procedure are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with the
code itself being given in a “Radio Passport”
and/or a “Keycode Label” at the same time.
2For obvious security reasons, the re-coding
procedure is not given in this manual - if youdo not have the code or details of the correct
procedure, but can supply proof of ownership
and a legitimate reason for wanting this
information, the vehicle’s selling dealer may
be able to help.
3Note that these units will allow only ten
attempts at entering the code - any further
attempts will render the unit permanently
inoperative until it has been reprogrammed by
Ford themselves. At first, three consecutive
attempts are allowed; if all three are incorrect,
a 30-minute delay is required before another
attempt can be made. Each of any
subsequent attempts (up to the maximum of
ten) can be made only after a similar delay.
Removal
4Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead.
5Where fitted, prise the cover/surround from
the front of the radio/cassette player. Note
that the cover is not fitted to all models.
6In order to release the radio retaining clips,
two U-shaped rods must be inserted into the
special holes on each side of the radio (see
illustration). If possible, it is preferable to
obtain purpose-made rods from an audio
specialist, as these have cut-outs which snap
firmly into the clips so that the radio can be
pulled out. Pull the unit squarely from its
aperture, or it may jam. If the unit proves
difficult to withdraw, remove the cassette tray
(or where applicable, the CD player) frombeneath the unit, then reach through the
aperture and ease it out from behind.
7With the radio partly withdrawn, disconnect
the feed, earth, aerial and speaker leads.
Where applicable, also detach and remove
the plastic support bracket from the rear of
the unit.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. With the
leads reconnected to the rear of the unit,
press it into position until the retaining clips
are felt to engage. Reactivate the unit by
entering the correct code in accordance with
the maker’s instructions.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead. See Chapter 5, Section 1.
2Unscrew the screws and remove the lower
facia panel.
3The radio/cassette player power amplifier is
located beneath the facia.
4Unscrew the cross-head screws, dis-
connect the wiring and remove the amplifier.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
24 Radio/cassette player
power amplifier -
removal and refitting
23 Radio/cassette player -
coding, removal and refitting
Body electrical system 12•21
12
22.12B . . . and prise out the rubber
grommet23.6 Using the special U-shaped rods to
remove the radio
22.6 Pulling the windscreen washer pump
from the reservoir22.11 Pull the washer tube from the
bottom of the nozzle22.12A Remove the nozzle from the
tailgate glass . . .
procarmanuals.com

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MTransmission drain plug key (Allen type)
MSet of feeler gauges
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MBrake adjuster spanner (where applicable)
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x
6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need to
be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drillsMSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustrations)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large range
of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
REF•1
Sockets and reversible ratchet driveSpline bit set
Tools and Working Facilities
procarmanuals.com

Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources; for example, Ford garages, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare part
sources is as follows.
Officially-appointed Ford garages- This is
the best source for parts which are peculiar to
your vehicle, and which are not generally
available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal
transmission components, badges, interior
trim etc). It is also the only place at which you
should buy parts if the vehicle is still under
warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct
parts, it will be necessary to give the storeman
the full Vehicle Identification Number, and if
possible, to take the old parts along for
positive identification. Many parts are
available under a factory exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean. It
obviously makes good sense to go straight to
the specialists on your vehicle for this type of
part, as they are best equipped to supply you.
Other garages and accessory shops- These
are often very good places to buy materials
and components needed for the maintenance
of your vehicle (eg oil filters, spark plugs,
bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up
paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general
accessories, usually have convenient opening
hours, charge lower prices, and can often be
found not far from home.
Motor factors- Good factors will stock all
the more important components which wear
out comparatively quickly (eg exhaust
systems, brake pads, seals and hydraulic
parts, clutch components, bearing shells,
pistons, valves etc). Motor factors will often
provide new or reconditioned components on
a part-exchange basis - this can save a
considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification numbers
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the appropriate identification
number or code being essential to correct
identification of the component concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give asmuch information as possible. Quote the
vehicle model, year of manufacture, Vehicle
Identification Number and engine numbers, as
appropriate.
The vehicle identification plateis located on
the engine compartment front crossmember
(see illustration). In addition to many other
details, it carries the Vehicle Identification
Number, maximum vehicle weight
information, and codes for interior trim and
body colours.
The Vehicle Identification Numberis given
on the vehicle identification plate. It is also
stamped on the engine compartment
bulkhead, behind the air intake plenum
chamber, and into the body, so that it can be
seen through the bottom left-hand corner of
the windscreen (see illustrations).The engine number, consisting of two
letters and five digits, with the three-letter
engine code nearby, is stamped into a flat-
machined surface on the cylinder
block/crankcase’s forward-facing flange,
between the pulse-air filter housing and the
transmission. To read the number without
removing the engine compartment air intake
resonator - see Chapter 4 - it is easiest to
raise and support the front of the vehicle on
axle stands, so that the number can be seen
from underneath (see illustration). If the
number cannot be seen in this location,
possible alternative sites are on a lower flange
on the cylinder block’s forward face,
immediately above the sump mating surface,
or on the left-hand end of the cylinder head,
between the oil filler cap and ignition coil.
REF•5
Vehicle identification plate on engine
compartment front crossmember
Vehicle identification number in body,
visible through bottom left-hand corner of
windscreen
Vehicle identification number on engine
compartment bulkhead
Engine number (arrowed) on front of
cylinder block/crankcase - seen from
beneath vehicle
Spare Parts/Vehicle Identification
procarmanuals.com

REF•7
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
m mDefective starter motor (Chapter 5).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-
ter 5).
m mEngine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).
m mAutomatic transmission not in Park/Neutral position, or selector
lever position sensor faulty (Chapter 7, Part B).
Engine rotates but will not start
m mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine difficult to start when cold
m
mBattery discharged (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mOther ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine difficult to start when hot
m
mAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mStarter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold (Chapters 1, 4 and 6).
Engine idles erratically
m
mIdle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mTiming belt incorrectly-tensioned (Chapter 2, Part A).
Engine misfires at idle speed
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mIdle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapters 5 and 6).
m mEngine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)
m mVacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).
m mFaulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).
m mDisconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapters 1 and 6).
Fault Finding
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively
rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easy reference guide to the
more common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped underheadings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is
there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical
fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the
test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying
cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again,
but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been
rattling around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components
out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or
recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll
probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.
1 Engine
Introduction
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REF•14Glossary of Technical Terms
Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.
Crocodile clipSee Alligator clipDDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
F
Fan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.
Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Feeler blade
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