1993 FORD MONDEO roof rack

0•6General Dimensions & Weights
Dimensions
Overall length:
Saloon, Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4481 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4631 mm
Overall width - including mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1925 mm
Overall height - at kerb weight:
Saloon, Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1403 to 1435 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1416 to 1501 mm
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2704 mm
Front track - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1503 mm
Rear track:
Saloon, Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1486 to 1487 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1504 mm
Turning circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.9 m
Weights
Kerb weight:
1.6 Saloon, Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1215 to 1250 kg
1.6 Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1265 to 1275 kg
1.8 Saloon, Hatchback models:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1225 to 1260 kg
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1260 to 1280 kg
1.8 Estate models:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 to 1285 kg
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1305 kg
2.0 Saloon, Hatchback models:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1250 to 1310 kg
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1285 to 1340 kg
2.0 Estate models:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1295 to 1335 kg
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1330 to 1415 kg
Maximum gross vehicle weight:
Saloon, Hatchback:
1.6 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1725 kg
1.8 Saloon models, automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1750 kg
2.0 models, automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1800 kg
All others . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1775 kg
Estate:
1.6 models, 2.0 models with manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900 kg
All others . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1925 kg
Maximum roof rack load:
Estate models with integral roof rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 kg
All others . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 kg
Maximum towing weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1500 kg
Trailer nose weight limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 kg
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Ignition timing and base idle
speed check
Note:The following procedure is a check only,
essentially of the ECU. Both the ignition timing
and the base idle speed are controlled by the
ECU. The ignition timing is not adjustable at
all; the base idle speed is set in production,
and should not be altered.
38If the fault code read-out (with any checks
resulting from it) has not eliminated the fault,
the next step is to check the ECU’s control of
the ignition timing and the base idle speed.
This task requires the use of a Ford STAR
tester (a proprietary fault code reader can be
used only if it is capable of inducing the ECU
to enter its “Service Adjustment Programme”),
coupled with an accurate tachometer and a
good-quality timing light. Without this
equipment, the task is not possible; the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
attention.
39To make the check, apply the handbrake,
switch off the air conditioning (where fitted)
and any other electrical loads (lights, heated
rear window, etc), then select neutral (manual
transmission) or the “P” position (automatic
transmission). Start the engine, and warm it
up to normal operating temperature. The
radiator electric cooling fan must be running
continuously while the check is made; this
should be activated by the ECU, when
prompted by the tester. Switch off the engine,
and connect the test equipment as directed
by the manufacturer - refer to paragraph 26
above for details of STAR tester connection.
40Raise and support the front of the vehicle
securely, and remove the auxiliary drivebelt
cover (see Chapter 1). Emphasise the two
pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of
the crankshaft pulley, using white paint. Note
that an ignition timing reference mark is not
provided on the pulley - in the normal
direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise,
seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle)
the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the
vehicles covered in this manual, while the
second pair indicate Top Dead Centre (TDC)
when aligned with the rear edge of the raised
mark on the sump; when checking the ignition
timing, therefore, the (rear edge of the) sumpmark should appear just before the TDC
notches (see Part A of Chapter 2, Section 4,
for further information if required).
41Start the engine and allow it to idle. Work
through the engine-running test procedure
until the ECU enters its “Service Adjustment
Programme” - see paragraph 35 above.
42Use the timing light to check that the
timing marks appear approximately as
outlined above at idle speed. Do not spend
too much time on this check; if the timing
appears to be incorrect, the system may have
a fault, and a full system test must be carried
out (see below) to establish its cause.
43Using the tachometer, check that the
base idle speed is as given in the
Specifications Section of Chapter 4.
44If the recorded speed differs significantly
from the specified value, check for air leaks,
as described in the preliminary checks
(paragraphs 15 to 18 above), or any other
faults which might cause the discrepancy.
45The base idle speed is set in production
by means of an air bypass screw (located in
the front right-hand corner of the throttle
housing) which controls the amount of air that
is allowed to pass through a bypass passage,
past the throttle valve when it is fully closed in
the idle position; the screw is then sealed with
a white tamperproof plug (see illustration). In
service, the idle speed is controlled by the
ECU, which has the ability to compensate for
engine wear, build-up of dirt in the throttle
housing, and other factors which might
require changes in idle speed. The air bypass
screw setting should not, therefore, be
altered. If any alterations are made, a blue
tamperproof plug must be fitted, and the
engine should be allowed to idle for at least
five minutes on completion, so that the ECU
can re-learn its idle values.
46When both checks have been made and
the “Service Adjustment Programme” is
completed, follow the tester instructions to
return to the fault code read-out, and
establish whether the fault has been cured or
not.
Basic check of ignition system
47If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the ignition system components,
using an engine analyser with an oscilloscope
- without such equipment, the only tests
possible are to remove and check each spark
plug in turn, to check the spark plug (HT) lead
connections and resistances, and to check
the connections and resistances of the
ignition coil. Refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapters 1 and 5.
Basic check of fuel system
48If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the fuel system components.
49Assuming that the preliminary checks
have established that the fuel pump is
operating correctly, that the fuel filter isunlikely to be blocked, and also that there are
no leaks in the system, the next step is to
check the fuel pressure (see Chapter 4). If this
is correct, check the injectors (see Chapter 4)
and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system
(see Chapter 1).
System test
50The final element of the Ford testing
procedure is to carry out a system test, using
a break-out box - this is a device that is
connected between the ECU and its electrical
connector, so that the individual circuits
indicated by the fault code read-out can be
tested while connected to the system, if
necessary with the engine running. In the case
of many of the system’s components, this
enables their output voltages to be measured
- a more accurate means of testing.
51In addition to the break-out box and the
adaptors required to connect it, several items
of specialist equipment are needed to
complete these tests. This puts them quite
beyond the scope of many smaller dealers, let
alone the DIY owner; the vehicle should be
taken to a Ford dealer for attention.
Note:This Section is concerned principally
with the sensors which give the ECU the
information it needs to control the various
engine management sub-systems - for further
details of those systems and their other
components, refer to the relevant Chapter of
this manual.
General
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
1This component is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. It also controls sub-systems such as
the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning and
automatic transmission, where appropriate.
Refer to Section 2 of this Chapter for an
illustration of how it works.
Air mass meter
2This uses a “hot-wire” system, sending the
ECU a constantly-varying (analogue) voltage
signal corresponding to the mass of air
passing into the engine. Since air mass varies
with temperature (cold air being denser than
warm), measuring air mass provides the ECU
with a very accurate means of determining the
correct amount of fuel required to achieve the
ideal air/fuel mixture ratio.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
3This is an inductive pulse generator bolted
(in a separate bracket) to the cylinder
block/crankcase, to scan the ridges between
36 holes machined in the inboard (right-hand)
face of the flywheel/driveplate. As each ridge
4 Information sensors -
general information, testing,
removal and refitting
6•10 Emissions control systems
3.45 Throttle housing air bypass screw is
sealed on production with a white
tamperproof plug (arrowed)
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Removal
Lock barrel
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2With the boot lid open, remove the luggage
space trim from the right-hand rear corner.
3Remove the screws, and prise out the rear
light trim cover from the guides.
4Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
5Slide the outer cable from the lock bracket.
Raise the inner cable until it is aligned with the
slot in the barrel lever, and disconnect it.
6Pull out the lock locating spring clip.
7Detach the cable mounting bracket from
the barrel, and remove the barrel.
Lock
8Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
9With the boot lid open, prise out the clips
and remove the trim from inside the boot lid.
10Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
11Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock
mounting screws, and withdraw the lock for
access to the cables.
12Disconnect both the inner and outer
cables from the lock bracket.13Prise open the plastic lip, and remove the
central locking control rod.
14Withdraw the lock assembly.
Refitting
Lock barrel and lock
15Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
Hatchback
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1). Open the tailgate.
2The tailgate may be unbolted from the
hinges and the hinges left in position, or the
hinges may be detached from the roof panel
by unscrewing the mounting nuts. In the latter
case, carefully pull down the rear edge of the
headlining for access to the nuts. Take care
not to damage the headlining.
3Remove the parcel shelf left-hand support
bracket as follows. Fold the rear seat
forwards, and disconnect the left-hand seat
pull cable from the bracket and clips.
Unscrew the screws and remove the bracket.
4Pull up the rear seat side bolster, then
carefully remove the side trim from the left-
hand side of the luggage area. On low-series
models, the bolster is retained with a screw.5Separate the tailgate wiring loom multi-
plugs, located on the left-hand side of the
luggage compartment, on top of the wheel
arch.
6Unclip and remove the upper trim panel
from the inside of the tailgate. Also remove
the rear shelf cord plastic post (see
illustrations).
7Prise out the rubber grommet from the top
of the tailgate aperture, and pull the wiring
loom out through the hole in the body (see
illustration).
8Disconnect the rear window washer tube
from the jet.
9Prise out the rubber grommet from the
right-hand side of the tailgate aperture, and
pull out the washer tube.
10Have an assistant support the tailgate in
its open position.
11Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
clips securing the struts to the tailgate. Pull
the sockets from the ball-studs, and move the
struts downwards.
12If the headlining has been pulled back,
unscrew and remove the hinge nuts from the
roof panel. Otherwise, unscrew the bolts
securing the tailgate to the hinges (see
illustration).
13Withdraw the tailgate from the body
aperture, taking care not to damage the
paintwork.
Estate
14Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
15The tailgate may be unbolted from the
hinges and the hinges left in position, or the
hinges may be detached from the rear roof
panel by unscrewing the mounting nuts. In the
latter case, carefully pull down the rear edge
of the headlining for access to the nuts. Take
care not to damage the headlining.
16Unscrew the retaining screws, then unclip
the “D” pillar trim panels from both sides (see
illustration).
17Unclip and remove the upper trim panel
from inside the tailgate.
18Carefully remove the side trim from the
left-hand side of the luggage area, and
separate the tailgate wiring loom multi-plugs
in the rear light cluster housing.
20 Tailgate -
removal and refitting
19 Boot lid lock components-
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•15
11
20.12 Unscrewing the bolts securing the
tailgate to the hinges20.16 “D” pillar trim panel retaining
screws (arrowed) - Estate models
20.6A Unclipping the upper trim panel
from the tailgate20.6B Shelf cord post removal20.7 Removing the wiring loom rubber
grommet
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19Attach a strong fine cord to the end of the
wiring loom, to act as an aid to guiding the
wiring through the tailgate when it is refitted.
20Prise the rubber grommet from the top
left-hand side of the tailgate aperture, and pull
out the wiring loom. Untie the cord, leaving it
in position in the “D” pillar.
21Disconnect the rear window washer tube
from the jet. Pull out the rubber grommet, and
remove the tube.
22Have an assistant support the tailgate in
its open position.
23Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
clip securing the struts to the tailgate. Pull the
sockets from the ball-studs, and move the
struts downwards.
24Unscrew and remove the hinge nuts from
the roof panel, or the hinge bolts from thehinge, as desired (see illustration). Withdraw
the tailgate from the body aperture, taking
care not to damage the paintwork.
Refitting
Hatchback and Estate
25Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but check that the tailgate is
located centrally in the body aperture, and
that the striker enters the lock centrally. If
necessary, loosen the mounting nuts and re-
position the tailgate as required.
Removal
1Support the tailgate in its open position.
2Prise off the upper spring clip securing the
strut to the tailgate, then pull the socket from
the ball-stud (see illustration).
3Similarly prise off the bottom clip (see
illustration), and pull the socket from the ball-
stud. Withdraw the strut.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but make sure that the piston end
of the strut is fitted on the body (ie
downwards).
Removal
Lock barrel (Hatchback)
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2With the tailgate open, pull up the
weatherstrip for access to the lock. Remove
the screws and clips, and remove the trim
panel from the rear of the luggage
compartment.
3Unhook the parcel net, then remove the
screws and clips, and remove the rear
crossmember trim.
4Remove the screws, and prise out the rear
light trim cover from the guides.
5Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
6Slide the outer cable from the lock bracket.
Raise the inner cable until it is aligned with the
slot in the barrel lever, and disconnect it (see
illustration).
7Pull out the lock barrel locating spring clip.
8Detach the cable mounting bracket from
the barrel, and remove the barrel and cylinder
(see illustrations).
Lock barrel (Estate)
9Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
10Unclip and remove the tailgate trim panel.
Undo the three screws and remove the lock
shield, then unclip the door-ajar sensor.
11Working through the aperture in the
tailgate inner panel, pull out the lock barrel
locating spring clip. Unhook the operating rod
and withdraw the lock barrel.
Lock (Hatchback)
12Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
13With the tailgate open, pull up the
weatherstrip for access to the lock. Remove
the screws and clips, and remove the trim
panel from the rear of the luggage
compartment.
22 Tailgate lock components -
removal and refitting
21 Tailgate support strut-
removal and refitting
11•16 Bodywork and fittings
20.24 Tailgate hinge and bolts - Estate
models21.2 Prising the spring clip from the upper
end of the strut
21.3 Prising the spring clip from the lower
end of the strut
22.6 Tailgate lock barrel and bracket22.8A Removing the lock barrel . . .22.8B . . . and cylinder
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Main light, auxiliary foglight and rear
foglight combination switch
Note:From July 1994 a rvised main light
switch was introduced; this was fitted as
standard in production. If the revised switch is
to be fitted to a pre-July 1994 model, an
adapter lead will also be required to prevent
electrical damage ocurring. Refer to your Ford
dealer for further information
9Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
10Carefully prise the switch panel from the
facia, using a screwdriver against a cloth pad
to prevent damage to the facia (see
illustration).
11Disconnect the multi-plugs and withdraw
the switch panel (see illustration).
12Unscrew the four mounting screws, and
remove the switch from the panel.
13Pull off the switch control knob, and
remove the blanking plug and retainer.
14Depress the plastic tabs, and remove the
front cover and switch.
Instrument light rheostat
15Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
16Carefully prise the light switch panel from
the facia, using a screwdriver against a cloth
pad to prevent damage to the facia.
17Disconnect the multi-plugs from the rear
of the switch, then remove the screws and
withdraw the instrument light rheostat from
the panel.
Door mirror control switch
18Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
19Carefully prise the switch from the facia,
using a screwdriver against a cloth pad to
prevent damage to the facia.
20Disconnect the multi-plug and withdraw
the switch.
Direction indicator, dipped beam and
hazard flasher multi-function switch
21Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
22Remove the rubber gaiters and locking
rings, then remove the screws and take off the
steering column upper shroud.23Depress the retaining lug and withdraw
the switch assembly, then disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
24With the switch assembly removed, pull
out the direction indicator relay if required.
Horn switch (steering wheel without
air bag)
Note:When an air bag is fitted, the horn
switch is removed with the air bag unit. Refer
to Section 28.
25Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
26Carefully pull off the padded centre of the
steering wheel which incorporates the horn
switch.
27Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch assembly.
Luggage compartment switch
28Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
29With the tailgate/bootlid open, pull the
weatherstrip from the centre of the rear cross
panel.
30Carefully prise out the trim fasteners from
the bottom corners of the rear trim, then
unscrew the retaining screws and remove the
trim panel.
31Disconnect the wiring multi-plug, and pull
out the switch.
Electrically-operated window switch
(single)
32Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
33Carefully prise out the switch from the
door inner trim panel, using a cloth pad to
prevent damage to the trim.
34Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Electrically-operated window switch
(multiple) and isolator
35Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
36Prise the blanking cap from inside the
inner door handle cavity, and remove the
screw.
37Hold the inner door handle in its open
position, then remove the bezel and withdraw
it over the handle.38Depress the retaining lug and remove the
switch assembly, then disconnect the multi-
plug.
Electrically-operated sunroof switch
and traction control switch
39Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
40Carefully prise out the switch with a
screwdriver, using a cloth pad to prevent
damage to the trim.
41Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Handbrake-on warning switch
42Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
43Remove the centre console as described
in Chapter 11.
44Disconnect the multi-plug, then remove
the screw and withdraw the switch from the
handbrake lever mounting bracket (see
illustration).
“Economy/Sport” mode switch
(automatic transmission models)
45Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
46Select Neutral, then prise out the selector
indicator panel, using a cloth pad to prevent
damage to the surrounding trim.
47Push the switch out of the panel, and
disconnect the multi-plug.
Body electrical system 12•7
12
4.44 Disconnecting the multi-plug from
the handbrake lever
4.10 Prising out the light switch4.11 Disconnecting the multi-plugs from
the light switch and rheostat4.23 Removing the direction indicator,
dipped beam and hazard flasher multi-
function switch. Direction indicator relay
(flasher unit) is attached
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headlamp washer pump, from the reservoir
(see illustration).
7Remove the rubber seals.
Washer nozzle (windscreen)
8With the bonnet supported in its open
position, carefully disconnect the washer tube
from the bottom of the nozzle.
9Using a screwdriver and working from
under the bonnet, carefully prise out the
nozzle. Where necessary, disconnect the
wiring for the nozzle heater.
Washer nozzle (rear window)
10With the tailgate open, carefully pull off
the inner trim panel from the top of the
tailgate.
11Pull the washer tube from the bottom of
the nozzle (see illustration).
12Carefully prise the nozzle out of the
tailgate glass, then prise out the rubber
grommet (see illustrations). Where
necessary, disconnect the wiring for the
nozzle heater.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. In the case of the washer nozzles,
press them in until they are fully engaged. The
rear window washer nozzle must rest against
the rubber seal.
Note:Special tools are required to remove the
radio.
Coding
1If a Ford “Keycode” unit is fitted, and the
unit and/or the battery is disconnected, the
unit will not function again on reconnection
until the correct security code is entered.
Details of this procedure are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with the
code itself being given in a “Radio Passport”
and/or a “Keycode Label” at the same time.
2For obvious security reasons, the re-coding
procedure is not given in this manual - if youdo not have the code or details of the correct
procedure, but can supply proof of ownership
and a legitimate reason for wanting this
information, the vehicle’s selling dealer may
be able to help.
3Note that these units will allow only ten
attempts at entering the code - any further
attempts will render the unit permanently
inoperative until it has been reprogrammed by
Ford themselves. At first, three consecutive
attempts are allowed; if all three are incorrect,
a 30-minute delay is required before another
attempt can be made. Each of any
subsequent attempts (up to the maximum of
ten) can be made only after a similar delay.
Removal
4Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead.
5Where fitted, prise the cover/surround from
the front of the radio/cassette player. Note
that the cover is not fitted to all models.
6In order to release the radio retaining clips,
two U-shaped rods must be inserted into the
special holes on each side of the radio (see
illustration). If possible, it is preferable to
obtain purpose-made rods from an audio
specialist, as these have cut-outs which snap
firmly into the clips so that the radio can be
pulled out. Pull the unit squarely from its
aperture, or it may jam. If the unit proves
difficult to withdraw, remove the cassette tray
(or where applicable, the CD player) frombeneath the unit, then reach through the
aperture and ease it out from behind.
7With the radio partly withdrawn, disconnect
the feed, earth, aerial and speaker leads.
Where applicable, also detach and remove
the plastic support bracket from the rear of
the unit.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. With the
leads reconnected to the rear of the unit,
press it into position until the retaining clips
are felt to engage. Reactivate the unit by
entering the correct code in accordance with
the maker’s instructions.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead. See Chapter 5, Section 1.
2Unscrew the screws and remove the lower
facia panel.
3The radio/cassette player power amplifier is
located beneath the facia.
4Unscrew the cross-head screws, dis-
connect the wiring and remove the amplifier.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
24 Radio/cassette player
power amplifier -
removal and refitting
23 Radio/cassette player -
coding, removal and refitting
Body electrical system 12•21
12
22.12B . . . and prise out the rubber
grommet23.6 Using the special U-shaped rods to
remove the radio
22.6 Pulling the windscreen washer pump
from the reservoir22.11 Pull the washer tube from the
bottom of the nozzle22.12A Remove the nozzle from the
tailgate glass . . .
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REF•3
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers (see
illustrations)
MDial gauge (see illustration)
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
(see illustration)
MClutch plate alignment set (see illustration)
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
(see illustration)
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
(see illustration)
MStud extractors (see illustration)
MTap and die set (see illustration)
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around atreasonable prices, but always aim to purchase
items which meet the relevant national safety
standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or
manager of the shop for advice before making
a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools isthe workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, some
form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Bush and bearing removal/installation setStud extractor setTap and die set
Tools and Working Facilities
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REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
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