1993 FORD MONDEO remove seats

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
1•11
17.4 Removing the automatic transmission
dipstick from its tube7.6A “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the
dipstick7.6B Adding automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube
Every 10 000 miles
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is
160 to 175°F, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just
been driven for a long time at
high speed or in city traffic in hot
weather, or if it has been pulling
a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading
cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
ranges three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick
from its tube (see illustration). Note the
condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the
“MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the
specified automatic transmission fluid through
the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if
necessary (see illustrations). It is important
not to introduce dirt into the transmission
when topping-up.
7Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct.8The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-
brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt
about the condition of the fluid, purchase
some new fluid, and compare the two for
colour and smell.
1Check the operation of all external lights
and indicators (front and rear).
2Check for satisfactory operation of the
instrument panel, its illumination and warning
lights, the switches and their function lights.
3Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4Check all other electrical equipment for
satisfactory operation.
5Check all electrical wiring in the engine
compartment for correct routing, and for any
signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.
Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when checking
and servicing the battery.
Hydrogen gas, which is highly
flammable, is always present in the battery
cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other
open flames and sparks away from the
battery. The electrolyte inside the battery
is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will
cause injury if splashed on your skin or in
your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and
painted surfaces. When disconnecting the
battery, always detach the negative (earth)
lead first and connect it last!
Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer
to Section 1 of Chapter 5.
9 Battery check, maintenance
and charging
8 Electrical system check
7 Automatic transmission fluid
level check
9.1 Tools and materials required for
battery maintenance
1Face shield/safety goggles- When
removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic
particles can easily fly up into your eyes
2Baking soda- A solution of baking soda
and water can be used to neutralise corrosion
3Petroleum jelly- A layer of this on the
battery terminals will help prevent corrosion
4Battery terminal/lead cleaner- This wire
brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of
corrosion from the battery terminals and lead
clamps
5Treated felt washers- Placing one of
these on each terminal, directly under the
lead clamps, will help prevent corrosion
6Puller- Sometimes the lead clamps are
very difficult to pull off the terminals, even
after the nut has been completely slackened.
This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off
the terminal without damage
7Battery terminal/lead cleaner- Here is
another cleaning tool which is a slightly
different version of number 4 above, but does
the same thing
8Rubber gloves- Another safety item to
consider when servicing the battery;
remember, that’s acid inside the battery!
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Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided
with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and refit the
roadwheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.
7Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see
illustration). If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns. As the plug
releases from the threads, move it away
sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the
sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve!
Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and
check the condition of the plug’s sealing
washer; renew it if worn or damaged.
8Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle; when
the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the
drain plug and its threads in the sump and
refit the plug, tightening it to the specified
torque wrench setting.
9Using a suitable filter removal tool, unscrew
the oil filter from the right-hand rear of the
cylinder block; be prepared for some oil
spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter
to make sure that the rubber sealing ring
hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully
remove it. Withdraw the filter through the
wheel arch, taking care to spill as little oil as
possible.
10Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific instructions supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring (see illustration). Screw the filter
into position on the engine until it seats, then
tighten it through a further half- to three-
quarters of a turn only. Tighten the filter by
hand only - do not use any tools.
11Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.12Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time,
until the level is up to the lower notch on the
dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre
will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper
notch.
13Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
14Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures”in
the reference Sections of this manual.
1The manual transmission does not have a
dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
making sure that the vehicle is level. On the
lower front side of the transmission housing,you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and
remove it. If the lubricant level is correct, the
oil should be up to the lower edge of the hole.
2If the transmission needs more lubricant (if
the oil level is not up to the hole), use a
syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add
more (see illustration). Stop filling the
transmission when the lubricant begins to run
out of the hole.
3Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Drive the
vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.
4A need for regular topping-up can only be
due to a leak, which should be found and
rectified without delay.
The procedure is described in Chapter 8,
Section 3.
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Remove the left-hand front wheel.
2Apply a little oil to the cable end fitting on
the selector lever on the left-hand side of the
transmission (refer to Chapter 7, Part B if
necessary).
3Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Front suspension and steering
check
1Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing
or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear
19 Steering, suspension and
roadwheel check
18 Automatic transmission
linkage lubrication
17 Clutch pedal adjustment
16 Manual transmission oil level
check
1•17
1
19.2B Check the condition of the lower
arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)
15.10 Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring
with clean engine oil before installing the
filter on the engine16.2 Topping-up the manual transmission
oil
19.2A Check the condition of the track rod
balljoint dust cover (arrowed)
Every 10 000 miles
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check the cylinder head threads and tapered
sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer as to the best method of repair.
7As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of
the spark plug is clean and white, with no
deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.
8If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
9If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
10If you are renewing the spark plugs,
purchase the new plugs, then check each of
them first for faults such as cracked insulators
or damaged threads. Note also that,
whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a
routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)
leads should be checked as described below.
11The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. New
plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct
gap, so they should always be checked
before fitting.
12Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops (see illustration).
13To set the electrode gap, measure the
gap with a feeler gauge, and then bend open,
or closed, the outer plug electrode until the
correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The
centre electrode should never be bent, as this
may crack the insulation and cause plug
failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode
is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend
it gently to align them.14Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector
sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and
that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are
clean. Brown staining on the porcelain,
immediately above the metal body, is quite
normal, and does not necessarily indicate a
leak between the body and insulator.
15On installing the spark plugs, first check
that the cylinder head thread and sealing
surface are as clean as possible; use a clean
rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe
clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of
copper-based grease or anti-seize compound
to the threads of each plug, and screw them
in by hand where possible. Take extra care to
enter the plug threads correctly, as the
cylinder head is of aluminium alloy - it’s often
difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes
without cross-threading them.
16When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting (see illustration). If a torque
wrench is not available - and this is one case
where the use of a torque wrench is strongly
recommended - tighten each spark plug
through no more than1/16 of a turn. Do not
exceed the specified torque setting, and
NEVERovertighten these spark plugs - their
tapered seats mean they are almost
impossible to remove if abused.
17Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of
the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.
Spark plug (HT) lead check
18The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever the plugs themselves are
renewed. Start by making a visual check of
the leads while the engine is running. In a
darkened garage (make sure there is
ventilation) start the engine and observe each
lead. Be careful not to come into contact with
any moving engine parts. If there is a break in
the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark
at the damaged area.
19The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Each original lead should be
numbered to identify its cylinder. If the
number is illegible, a piece of tape can be
marked with the correct number, and
wrapped around the lead (the leads should be
numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the
timing belt end of the engine). The lead can
then be disconnected.
20Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
corroded to be fit for further use, the lead
must be renewed. Push the lead and boot
back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
1•25
1
Every 30 000 miles
31.12 Spark plug manufacturers
recommend using a wire-type gauge when
checking the gap - if the wire does not
slide between the electrodes with a slight
drag, adjustment is required31.13 To change the gap, bend the outer
electrode only, as indicated by the arrows,
and be very careful not to crack or chip the
porcelain insulator surrounding the centre
electrode31.16 Spark plugs have tapered seats - do
not overtighten them on refitting, or you
will not be able to get them out again
without risking damage to the plugs and
cylinder head
To avoid the possibility of cross-
threading a spark plug, fit a short piece
of rubber hose over the end of the
plug. The flexible hose acts as a
universal joint, to help align the plug
with the plug hole. Should the plug
begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip
on the spark plug, preventing thread
damage.
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The cylinder head is provided with two oil
galleries, one on the inlet side and one on the
exhaust, to ensure constant oil supply to the
camshaft bearings and hydraulic tappets. A
retaining valve (inserted into the cylinder
head’s top surface, in the middle, on the inlet
side) prevents these galleries from being
drained when the engine is switched off. The
valve incorporates a ventilation hole in its
upper end, to allow air bubbles to escape
from the system when the engine is restarted.
While the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings and the hydraulic tappets receive a
pressurised supply, the camshaft lobes and
valves are lubricated by splash, as are all
other engine components.
Valve clearances - general
It is necessary for a clearance to exist
between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism, to allow for the
expansion of the various components as the
engine reaches normal operating
temperature.
On most older engine designs, this meant
that the valve clearances (also known as
“tappet” clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were
allowed to be too slack, the engine would be
very noisy, its power output would suffer, and
its fuel consumption would increase. If the
clearances were allowed to be too tight, the
engine’s power output would be reduced,
and the valves and their seats could be
severely damaged.
The engines covered in this manual,
however, employ hydraulic tappets which use
the lubricating system’s oil pressure
automatically to take up the clearance
between each camshaft lobe and its
respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no
need for regular checking and adjustment of
the valve clearances, but it is essential that
onlygood-quality oil of the recommended
viscosity and specification is used in the
engine, and that this oil is always changed at
the recommended intervals. If this advice is
not followed, the oilways and tappets may
become clogged with particles of dirt, or
deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that
the system cannot work properly; ultimately,
one or more of the tappets may fail, and
expensive repairs may be required.
On starting the engine from cold, there will
be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets; the valve components, therefore,
may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so,
and then quieten. This is a normal state of
affairs, and is nothing to worry about,
provided that all tappets quieten quickly and
stay quiet.
After the vehicle has been standing for
several days, the valve components may
“rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the
oil will have drained away from the engine’s
top end components and bearing surfaces.
While this is only to be expected, care mustbe taken not to damage the engine under
these circumstances - avoid high speed
running until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise
ceases. Do not run the engine at more than
3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged
with oil and the noise has ceased.
If the valve components are thought to be
noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top
end after the engine has warmed up to
normal operating temperature, take the
vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice.
Depending on the mileage covered and the
usage to which each vehicle has been put,
some vehicles may be noisier than others;
only a good mechanic experienced in these
engines can tell if the noise level is typical for
the vehicle’s mileage, or if a genuine fault
exists. If any tappet’s operation is faulty, it
must be renewed (Section 13).
The following major repair operations can
be accomplished without removing the
engine from the vehicle. However, owners
should note that any operation involving the
removal of the sump requires careful
forethought, depending on the level of skill
and the tools and facilities available; refer to
the relevant text for details.
(a) Compression pressure - testing.
(b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
(c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
(d) Timing belt - renewal.
(e) Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys
- removal and refitting.
(f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
(g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets -
removal and refitting.
(h) Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and
refitting.
(i) Cylinder head and pistons -
decarbonising.
(j) Sump - removal and refitting.
(k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
(l) Oil pump - removal and refitting.
(m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies -
removal and refitting (but see note below).
(n) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
(o) Engine/transmission mountings - removal
and refitting.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt
out of the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, it
may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint; special covers are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for component/
gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can
generally be made with the engine in the
vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold
gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place.
Exterior components such as the intake
and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil
pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.
Since the cylinder head can be removed
without lifting out the engine, camshaft and
valve component servicing can also be
accomplished with the engine in the vehicle,
as can renewal of the timing belt and toothed
pulleys.
In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine
in the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved, and because of the
amount of preliminary dismantling work
required - these operations are therefore
covered in Part B of this Chapter.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The aid of an assistant will be
required also.
3Disable the ignition system by unplugging
the ignition coil’s electrical connector, and
remove fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump.
4Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
7At the time of writing, no compression
3 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2 Repair operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•5
2A
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2Remove the cylinder head (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 14).
3Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. A special valve spring
compressor will be required, to reach into the
deep wells in the cylinder head without risk of
damaging the hydraulic tappet bores; such
compressors are now widely available from
most good motor accessory shops. Release
the compressor, and lift off the spring upper
seat and spring (see illustrations).
4If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring upper seat refuses
to free and expose the split collets, gently tap
the top of the tool, directly over the upper
seat, with a light hammer. This will free the
seat.
5Withdraw the valve through the combustionchamber. If it binds in the guide (won’t pull
through), push it back in, and de-burr the area
around the collet groove with a fine file or
whetstone; take care not to mark the
hydraulic tappet bores.
6Ford recommend the use of their service
tool 21-160 to extract the valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seals; while this is almost
indispensable if the seals are to be removed
without risk of (extremely expensive) damage
to the cylinder head, we found that a
serviceable substitute can be made from a
strong spring of suitable size. Screw on the
tool or spring so that it bites into the seal, then
draw the seal off the valve guide (see
illustrations).
7It is essential that the valves are kept
together with their collets, spring seats and
springs, and in their correct sequence (unless
they are so badly worn that they are to be
renewed). If they are going to be kept and
used again, place them in a labelled polythene
bag or similar small container (see
illustration). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to
the timing belt end of the engine.
8If the oil-retaining valve is to be removed (to
flush out the cylinder head oil galleries
thoroughly), seek the advice of a Ford dealer
as to how it can be extracted; it may be that
the only course of action involves destroying
the valve as follows. Screw a self-tapping
screw into its ventilation hole, and use the
screw to provide purchase with which the
valve can be drawn out; a new valve must be
purchased and pressed into place on
reassembly (see illustration).Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
1Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note:If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped,
and to check carefully for signs of this.
Cleaning
2Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head (see Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14 for details).
3Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
7 Cylinder head and valve
components-
cleaning and inspection
2B•10 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
6.3A Standard valve spring compressor
modified as shown . . .6.3B . . . or purpose-built special version,
is required to compress valve springs
without damaging cylinder head . . .
6.3C . . . so that both valve split collets
can be removed from the valve’s stem -
small magnetic pick-up tool prevents loss
of small metal components on removal
and refitting
6.6B . . . can be replaced by home-made
tool if suitable spring can be found
6.6A Ford service tool in use to remove
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals . . .
6.7 Use clearly-marked containers to
identify components and to keep matched
assemblies together6.8 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve
(arrowed)
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4Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Note:Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.
Cylinder head
5Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head gasket surface is
not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be possible to re-surface it.
7Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guidesmust be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only afterthe guides have been
renewed.
Valves
11Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
onlyshould be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should notbe used unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the
cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert, is required.
14Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grindingcompound (see illustration). A light spring
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation.
16If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off alltraces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder
head.
Valve components
18Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure
their free length by comparing each of the
existing springs with a new component.
19Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness (see illustration). If
any of the springs are damaged, distorted, or
have lost their tension, obtain a complete set
of new springs.
20Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21Check the hydraulic tappets as described
in Part A of this Chapter, Section 13.
1Regardless of whether or not the head was
sent away for repair work of any sort, make
sure that it is clean before beginning
reassembly. Be sure to remove any metal
particles and abrasive grit that may still be
present from operations such as valve
8 Cylinder head - reassembly
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•11
2B
7.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve
stem - if any significant difference is found
in the readings obtained, excessive valve
stem wear is indicated7.15 Grinding-in a valve seat - do not grind
in the valves any more than absolutely
necessary, or their seats will be
prematurely sunk into the cylinder head
7.19 Check each valve spring for
squareness
7.6 Check the cylinder head gasket
surfaces for warpage, in the planes
indicated (A to G). Try to slip a feeler
gauge under the precision straight edge
(see the Specifications for the maximum
distortion allowed, and use a feeler blade
of that thickness)
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which pulley, disconnect the first cable end
nipple from the throttle actuator’s upper
pulley, then slide the cable outer upwards out
of the actuator housing. Disconnect the
second cable in the same way from the
actuator’s lower pulley.
6Working in the passenger compartment,
reach up to the top of the accelerator pedal.
Pull the end fitting and collar out of the pedal,
then release the cable inner wire through the
slot in the pedal. Tie a length of string to the
end of the cable.
7Returning to the engine compartment, pull
the cable through the bulkhead until the string
can be untied and the pedal-to-actuator cable
removed.
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Use the string to draw the pedal-
to-actuator cable through the bulkhead.
Ensure that each cable end is connected to
the correct actuator pulley.
9Adjust both cables as described below.
Adjustment
Note:Both sections of the cable must be
adjusted together, even if only one has been
disturbed.
10Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
11Remove the metal clip from the adjuster
of each cable section (see illustration), and
lubricate the adjusters’ grommets with soapy
water.
12Remove any slack by pulling both cable
outers as far as possible out of their
respective adjusters.
13Unplug the TCS throttle actuator’s
electrical connector, and prise off its cover.
Lock both pulleys together by pushing a
locking pin (a pin punch or a similar tool of
suitable size) into their alignment holes.
Disconnect the actuator-to-throttle housing
cable’s end nipple from the throttle linkage.
14Have an assistant depress the accelerator
pedal fully. The pedal-to-actuator cable outer
will move back into the adjuster; hold it there,
and refit the clip.
15Connect the actuator-to-throttle housing
cable end nipple to the throttle linkage, andcheck that the cable outer’s grommet is
correctly secured in the housing bracket.
16Again have the assistant depress the
accelerator pedal fully. The actuator-to-
throttle housing cable outer will move back
into the adjuster; hold it there, and refit the
clip.
17Remove the locking pin from the pulleys.
Check that the throttle valve moves smoothly
and easily from the fully-closed to the fully-
open position and back again, as the
assistant depresses and releases the
accelerator pedal. Re-adjust the cable(s) if
required.
18When the setting is correct, refit the TCS
throttle actuator’s cover and electrical
connector, then refit the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
1Disconnect the cable inner wire from the
pedal - see Section 5 or 6, as appropriate.
2Undo the retaining nuts and bolt, then
withdraw the pedal assembly (see
illustration).
3Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Adjust the cable(s) as described in
the relevant Section of this Chapter.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a Class B type
fire extinguisher on hand.
Fuel pump operation check
1Switch on the ignition and listen for the fuel
pump (the sound of an electric motor running,
audible from beneath the rear seats). Assuming
there is sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump
should start and run for approximately one or
two seconds, then stop, each time the ignition
is switched on. Note:If the pump runs
continuously all the time the ignition is switched
on, the electronic control system is running in
the backup (or “limp-home”) mode referred to
by Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
ECU itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system, using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time trying to test the
system without such facilities.
2Listen for fuel return noises from the fuel
pressure regulator. It should be possible to
feel the fuel pulsing in the regulator and in the
feed hose from the fuel filter.
3If the pump does not run at all, check the
fuse, relay and wiring (see Chapter 6).
Fuel pressure check
3A fuel pressure gauge, equipped with an
adaptor to suit the Schrader-type valve on the
fuel rail pressure test/release fitting
(identifiable by its blue plastic cap, and
located on the union of the fuel feed line and
the fuel rail) is required for the following
procedure. If the Ford special tool 29-033 is
available (see Section 2), the tool can be
attached to the valve, and a conventional-type
pressure gauge attached to the tool.
4If using the service tool, ensure that its tap
is turned fully anti-clockwise, then attach it to
the valve. Connect the pressure gauge to the
service tool. If using a fuel pressure gauge
with its own adaptor, connect it in accordance
with its maker’s instructions (see illustration).
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note
the gauge reading as soon as the pressure
stabilises, and compare it with the pressure
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
(a) If the pressure is high, check for a
restricted fuel return line. If the line is
clear, renew the pressure regulator.
8 Fuel pump/fuel pressure -
check
7 Accelerator pedal -
removal and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
6.11 Location of TCS throttle actuator-to-
throttle housing cable adjuster (arrowed)7.2 Removing the accelerator pedal
assembly8.4 A fuel pressure gauge, equipped with
an adaptor to suit the Schrader-type valve
on the fuel rail pressure test/release fitting,
is needed to check fuel pressure
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spring must now be carefully released from
the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the
spring can be left in compression.
7With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear and damage, and check the bearing for
smoothness of operation. Renew components
as necessary.
8Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
9Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
noting the following points:
(a) Make sure that the coil spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower
seats before releasing the compressor.
(b) Check that the bearing is correctly fitted
to the piston rod seat.
(c) Tighten the thrust bearing retaining nut to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the front suspension struts
on both sides of the vehicle. Note that, on
models with ABS, the wheel sensor wiring
support brackets are located beneath the nuts
(see illustrations).
3Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar
mounting bolts from the engine subframe on
both sides of the vehicle.
4Withdraw the anti-roll bar from one side of
the vehicle, taking care not to damage the
surrounding components.5If necessary, unscrew the nuts and remove
the links from the anti-roll bar.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel.
2If removing the right-hand side lower arm,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover where
necessary.
3Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts
securing the lower arm to the subframe (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the anti-roll bar on both
sides. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards away
from the lower arm.
5Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint, and
disconnect the gaiter from the CV joint
housing. This is necessary to prevent damageto the gaiter when the steering knuckle is
moved outwards to remove the lower arm.
7Note which way round the front suspension
lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then
unscrew and remove it from the knuckle
assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the
knuckle; if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the separation
procedure. Support the inner end of the
driveshaft on an axle stand (see illustrations).
8Remove the lower arm from the subframe,
and withdraw it from the vehicle.
Overhaul
9Examine the rubber bushes and the
suspension lower balljoint for wear and
damage. The balljoint may be renewed as
described in Section 8. The rubber bushes
may be removed using a press, or a length of
metal tubing together with a long bolt,
washers and nut.
10Note that the front and rear bushes are
different. The front one has a solid rubber
bush with a cylindrical inner tube, whereas the
rear one has a voided rubber bush with a
barrel-shaped inner tube (see illustration).
11Press the new bushes into the lower arm,
using the same method as used for removal.
Note that, when fitting the rear bush, the voids
must be in line with the front bush location.
On later models, a pip on the rear bush must
be aligned with a triangular alignment mark on
the arm.
7 Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
6 Front anti-roll bar and links -
removal and refitting
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
6.2A Unscrew the nut . . .6.2B . . . and disconnect the anti-roll bar
link and (on ABS models) the sensor wiring
support bracket
7.3 One of the nuts and bolts securing the
lower arm to the subframe7.7A Unscrew the lower arm balljoint
clamp bolt . . .7.7B . . . and disconnect the balljoint from
the knuckle
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