1993 FORD MONDEO change time

constantly monitors the oxygen content of the
exhaust gas. If the percentage of oxygen in
the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical
signal is sent to the ECU. The ECU processes
this information, and then sends a command
to the fuel injection system, telling it to change
the air/fuel mixture; the end result is an air/fuel
mixture ratio which is constantly maintained
at a predetermined ratio, regardless of driving
conditions. This happens in a fraction of a
second, and goes on almost all the time while
the engine is running - the exceptions are that
the ECU cuts out the system and runs the
engine on values pre-programmed
(“mapped”) into its memory both while the
oxygen sensor is reaching its normal
operating temperature after the engine has
been started from cold, and when the throttle
is fully open for full acceleration.
In the event of a sensor malfunction, a
back-up circuit will take over, to provide
driveability until the problem is identified and
fixed.
Precautions
(a) Always disconnect the power by
uncoupling the battery terminals - see
Section 1 of Chapter 5 - before removing
any of the electronic control system’s
electrical connectors.
(b) When installing a battery, be particularly
careful to avoid reversing the positive and
negative battery leads.
(c) Do not subject any components of the
system (especially the ECU) to severe
impact during removal or installation.
(d) Do not be careless during fault diagnosis.
Even slight terminal contact can invalidate
a testing procedure, and damage one of
the numerous transistor circuits.
(e) Never attempt to work on the ECU, to test
it (with any kind of test equipment), or to
open its cover.
(f) If you are inspecting electronic control
system components during rainy weather,
make sure that water does not enter any
part. When washing the engine
compartment, do not spray these parts or
their electrical connectors with water.
General
The various components of the fuel, ignition
and emissions control systems (not forgetting
the same ECU’s control of sub-systems such
as the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning
and automatic transmission, where
appropriate) are so closely interlinked that
diagnosis of a fault in any one component is
virtually impossible using traditional methods.
Working on simpler systems in the past, the
experienced mechanic may well have been
able to use personal skill and knowledge
immediately to pinpoint the cause of a fault, or
quickly to isolate the fault, by elimination;however, with an engine management system
integrated to this degree, this is not likely to
be possible in most instances, because of the
number of symptoms that could arise from
even a minor fault.
So that the causes of faults can be quickly
and accurately traced and rectified, the ECU
is provided with a built-in self-diagnosis
facility, which detects malfunctions in the
system’s components. When a fault occurs,
three things happen: the ECU identifies the
fault, stores a corresponding code in its
memory, and (in most cases) runs the system
using back-up values pre-programmed
(“mapped”) into its memory; some form of
driveability is thus maintained, to enable the
vehicle to be driven to a garage for attention.
Any faults that may have occurred are
indicated in the form of three-digit codes
when the system is connected (via the built-in
diagnosis or self-test connectors, as
appropriate) to special diagnostic equipment -
this points the user in the direction of the
faulty circuit, so that further tests can pinpoint
the exact location of the fault.
Given below is the procedure that would be
followed by a Ford technician to trace a fault
from scratch. Should your vehicle’s engine
management system develop a fault, read
through the procedure and decide how much
you can attempt, depending on your skill and
experience and the equipment available to
you, or whether it would be simpler to have
the vehicle attended to by your local Ford
dealer. If you are concerned about the
apparent complexity of the system, however,
remember the comments made in the fourth
paragraph of Section 1 of this Chapter; the
preliminary checks require nothing but care,
patience and a few minor items of equipment,
and may well eliminate the majority of faults.
(a) Preliminary checks
(b) Fault code read-out *
(c) Check ignition timing and base idle
speed. Recheck fault codes to establish
whether fault has been cured or not *
(d) Carry out basic check of ignition system
components. Recheck fault codes to
establish whether fault has been cured or
not *
(e) Carry out basic check of fuel system
components. Recheck fault codes to
establish whether fault has been cured or
not *
(f) If fault is still not located, carry out system
test *
Note:Operations marked with an asterisk
require special test equipment.
Preliminary checks
Note:When carrying out these checks to
trace a fault, remember that if the fault has
appeared only a short time after any part of
the vehicle has been serviced or overhauled,
the first place to check is where that work was
carried out, however unrelated it may appear,
to ensure that no carelessly-refitted
components are causing the problem.If you are tracing the cause of a “partial”
engine fault, such as lack of performance, in
addition to the checks outlined below, check
the compression pressures (see Part A of
Chapter 2) and bear in mind the possibility
that one of the hydraulic tappets might be
faulty, producing an incorrect valve clearance.
Check also that the fuel filter has been
renewed at the recommended intervals.
If the system appears completely dead,
remember the possibility that the
alarm/inhibitor system may be responsible.
1The first check for anyone without special
test equipment is to switch on the ignition,
and to listen for the fuel pump (the sound of
an electric motor running, audible from
beneath the rear seats); assuming there is
sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump should
start and run for approximately one or two
seconds, then stop, each time the ignition is
switched on. If the pump runs continuously all
the time the ignition is switched on, the
electronic control system is running in the
back-up (or “limp-home”) mode referred to by
Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
ECU itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time trying to test
the system without such facilities.
2If the fuel pump is working correctly (or not
at all), a considerable amount of fault
diagnosis is still possible without special test
equipment. Start the checking procedure as
follows.
3Open the bonnet and check the condition
of the battery connections - remake the
connections or renew the leads if a fault is
found (Chapter 5). Use the same techniques
to ensure that all earth points in the engine
compartment provide good electrical contact
through clean, metal-to-metal joints, and that
all are securely fastened. (In addition to the
earth connection at the engine lifting eye and
that from the transmission to the
body/battery, there is one earth connection
behind each headlight assembly, and one
below the power steering fluid reservoir.)
4Referring to the information given in
Chapter 12 and in the wiring diagrams at the
back of this manual, check that all fuses
protecting the circuits related to the engine
management system are in good condition.
Fit new fuses if required; while you are there,
check that all relays are securely plugged into
their sockets.
5Next work methodically around the engine
compartment, checking all visible wiring, and
the connections between sections of the
wiring loom. What you are looking for at this
stage is wiring that is obviously damaged by
chafing against sharp edges, or against
moving suspension/transmission components
and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being
trapped or crushed between carelessly-
refitted components, or melted by being
forced into contact with hot engine castings,
3 Diagnosis system -
general information
6•4 Emissions control systems
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back again, as an assistant depresses the
accelerator pedal. If the valve shows any sign
of stiffness, sticking or otherwise-inhibited
movement (and the accelerator cable is
known from the previous check to be in good
condition), spray the throttle linkage with
penetrating lubricant, allow time for it to work,
and repeat the check; if no improvement is
obtained, the complete throttle housing must
be renewed (Chapter 4).
15Unclip the air cleaner cover, and check
that the air filter element and the crankcase
ventilation system filter are not clogged or
soaked. (A clogged air filter will obstruct the
intake air flow, causing a noticeable effect on
engine performance; a clogged crankcase
ventilation system filter will inhibit crankcase
“breathing”). Renew or clean the filter(s) as
appropriate; refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1 for further information, if required.
Before refitting the air cleaner cover, check
that the air intake (located under the front left-
hand wing, opening behind the direction
indicator/headlight assembly) is clear. It
should be possible to blow through the intake,
or to probe it (carefully) as far as the rear of
the direction indicator light.
16Start the engine and allow it to idle.
Note:Working in the engine compartment
while the engine is running requires great care
if the risk of personal injury is to be avoided;
among the dangers are burns from contact
with hot components, or contact with moving
components such as the radiator cooling fan
or the auxiliary drivebelt. Refer to “Safety
first!” at the front of this manual before
starting, and ensure that your hands, and long
hair or loose clothing, are kept well clear of hot
or moving components at all times.
17Working from the air intake junction at the
inner wing panel, via the air cleaner assembly
and air mass meter, to the resonator, plenum
chamber, throttle housing and inlet manifold
(and including the various vacuum hoses and
pipes connected to these), check for air leaks.
Usually, these will be revealed by sucking or
hissing noises, but minor leaks may be traced
by spraying a solution of soapy water on to
the suspect joint; if a leak exists, it will be
shown by the change in engine note and the
accompanying air bubbles (or sucking-in of
the liquid, depending on the pressure
difference at that point). If a leak is found at
any point, tighten the fastening clamp and/or
renew the faulty components, as applicable.
18Similarly, work from the cylinder head, via
the manifold (and not forgetting the related
EGR and pulse-air system components) to the
tailpipe, to check that the exhaust system is
free from leaks. The simplest way of doing
this, if the vehicle can be raised and
supported safely and with complete security
while the check is made, is to temporarily
block the tailpipe while listening for the sound
of escaping exhaust gases; any leak should
be evident. If a leak is found at any point,
tighten the fastening clamp bolts and/or nuts,
renew the gasket, and/or renew the faultysection of the system, as necessary, to seal
the leak.
19It is possible to make a further check of
the electrical connections by wiggling each
electrical connector of the system in turn as
the engine is idling; a faulty connector will be
immediately evident from the engine’s
response as contact is broken and remade. A
faulty connector should be renewed to ensure
the future reliability of the system; note that
this may mean the renewal of that entire
section of the loom - see your local Ford
dealer for details.
20Switch off the engine. If the fault is not yet
identified, the next step is to check the
ignition voltages, using an engine analyser
with an oscilloscope - without such
equipment, the only tests possible are to
remove and check each spark plug in turn, to
check the spark plug (HT) lead connections
and resistances, and to check the
connections and resistances of the ignition
coil. Refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapters 1 and 5.
21The final step in these preliminary checks
would be to use an exhaust gas analyser to
measure the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe.This check cannot be made without special
test equipment - see your local Ford dealer for
details.
Fault code read-out
22As noted in the general comments at the
beginning of this Section, the preliminary
checks outlined above should eliminate the
majority of faults from the engine
management system. If the fault is not yet
identified, the next step is to connect a fault
code reader to the ECU, so that its self-
diagnosis facility can be used to identify the
faulty part of the system; further tests can
then be made to identify the exact cause of
the fault.
23In their basic form, fault code readers are
simply hand-held electronic devices, which
take data stored within an ECU’s memory and
display it when required as two- or three-digit
fault codes. The more sophisticated versions
now available can also control sensors and
actuators, to provide more effective testing;
some can store information, so that a road
test can be carried out, and any faults
encountered during the test can be displayed
afterwards.
6•6 Emissions control systems
3.26 Location and terminal identification of engine management system self-test,
diagnosis and service connectors
1 Power steering fluid reservoir
2 Diagnosis connector - for Ford diagnostic equipment FDS 2000
3 Self-test connector - for fault code read-out - pin 17 is output terminal, pin 48 is input
terminal, pin 40/60 is earth
4 Service connector - for octane adjustment
5 Plug-in bridge - to suit 95 RON fuel
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Ignition timing and base idle
speed check
Note:The following procedure is a check only,
essentially of the ECU. Both the ignition timing
and the base idle speed are controlled by the
ECU. The ignition timing is not adjustable at
all; the base idle speed is set in production,
and should not be altered.
38If the fault code read-out (with any checks
resulting from it) has not eliminated the fault,
the next step is to check the ECU’s control of
the ignition timing and the base idle speed.
This task requires the use of a Ford STAR
tester (a proprietary fault code reader can be
used only if it is capable of inducing the ECU
to enter its “Service Adjustment Programme”),
coupled with an accurate tachometer and a
good-quality timing light. Without this
equipment, the task is not possible; the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
attention.
39To make the check, apply the handbrake,
switch off the air conditioning (where fitted)
and any other electrical loads (lights, heated
rear window, etc), then select neutral (manual
transmission) or the “P” position (automatic
transmission). Start the engine, and warm it
up to normal operating temperature. The
radiator electric cooling fan must be running
continuously while the check is made; this
should be activated by the ECU, when
prompted by the tester. Switch off the engine,
and connect the test equipment as directed
by the manufacturer - refer to paragraph 26
above for details of STAR tester connection.
40Raise and support the front of the vehicle
securely, and remove the auxiliary drivebelt
cover (see Chapter 1). Emphasise the two
pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of
the crankshaft pulley, using white paint. Note
that an ignition timing reference mark is not
provided on the pulley - in the normal
direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise,
seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle)
the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the
vehicles covered in this manual, while the
second pair indicate Top Dead Centre (TDC)
when aligned with the rear edge of the raised
mark on the sump; when checking the ignition
timing, therefore, the (rear edge of the) sumpmark should appear just before the TDC
notches (see Part A of Chapter 2, Section 4,
for further information if required).
41Start the engine and allow it to idle. Work
through the engine-running test procedure
until the ECU enters its “Service Adjustment
Programme” - see paragraph 35 above.
42Use the timing light to check that the
timing marks appear approximately as
outlined above at idle speed. Do not spend
too much time on this check; if the timing
appears to be incorrect, the system may have
a fault, and a full system test must be carried
out (see below) to establish its cause.
43Using the tachometer, check that the
base idle speed is as given in the
Specifications Section of Chapter 4.
44If the recorded speed differs significantly
from the specified value, check for air leaks,
as described in the preliminary checks
(paragraphs 15 to 18 above), or any other
faults which might cause the discrepancy.
45The base idle speed is set in production
by means of an air bypass screw (located in
the front right-hand corner of the throttle
housing) which controls the amount of air that
is allowed to pass through a bypass passage,
past the throttle valve when it is fully closed in
the idle position; the screw is then sealed with
a white tamperproof plug (see illustration). In
service, the idle speed is controlled by the
ECU, which has the ability to compensate for
engine wear, build-up of dirt in the throttle
housing, and other factors which might
require changes in idle speed. The air bypass
screw setting should not, therefore, be
altered. If any alterations are made, a blue
tamperproof plug must be fitted, and the
engine should be allowed to idle for at least
five minutes on completion, so that the ECU
can re-learn its idle values.
46When both checks have been made and
the “Service Adjustment Programme” is
completed, follow the tester instructions to
return to the fault code read-out, and
establish whether the fault has been cured or
not.
Basic check of ignition system
47If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the ignition system components,
using an engine analyser with an oscilloscope
- without such equipment, the only tests
possible are to remove and check each spark
plug in turn, to check the spark plug (HT) lead
connections and resistances, and to check
the connections and resistances of the
ignition coil. Refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapters 1 and 5.
Basic check of fuel system
48If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the fuel system components.
49Assuming that the preliminary checks
have established that the fuel pump is
operating correctly, that the fuel filter isunlikely to be blocked, and also that there are
no leaks in the system, the next step is to
check the fuel pressure (see Chapter 4). If this
is correct, check the injectors (see Chapter 4)
and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system
(see Chapter 1).
System test
50The final element of the Ford testing
procedure is to carry out a system test, using
a break-out box - this is a device that is
connected between the ECU and its electrical
connector, so that the individual circuits
indicated by the fault code read-out can be
tested while connected to the system, if
necessary with the engine running. In the case
of many of the system’s components, this
enables their output voltages to be measured
- a more accurate means of testing.
51In addition to the break-out box and the
adaptors required to connect it, several items
of specialist equipment are needed to
complete these tests. This puts them quite
beyond the scope of many smaller dealers, let
alone the DIY owner; the vehicle should be
taken to a Ford dealer for attention.
Note:This Section is concerned principally
with the sensors which give the ECU the
information it needs to control the various
engine management sub-systems - for further
details of those systems and their other
components, refer to the relevant Chapter of
this manual.
General
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
1This component is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. It also controls sub-systems such as
the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning and
automatic transmission, where appropriate.
Refer to Section 2 of this Chapter for an
illustration of how it works.
Air mass meter
2This uses a “hot-wire” system, sending the
ECU a constantly-varying (analogue) voltage
signal corresponding to the mass of air
passing into the engine. Since air mass varies
with temperature (cold air being denser than
warm), measuring air mass provides the ECU
with a very accurate means of determining the
correct amount of fuel required to achieve the
ideal air/fuel mixture ratio.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
3This is an inductive pulse generator bolted
(in a separate bracket) to the cylinder
block/crankcase, to scan the ridges between
36 holes machined in the inboard (right-hand)
face of the flywheel/driveplate. As each ridge
4 Information sensors -
general information, testing,
removal and refitting
6•10 Emissions control systems
3.45 Throttle housing air bypass screw is
sealed on production with a white
tamperproof plug (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

hence the heat shields on the vehicle
underbody - and the casing will become
hot enough to ignite combustible
materials which brush against it. DO NOT,
therefore, park the vehicle in dry
undergrowth, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves.
(k) Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE. Do not strike it with tools
during servicing work, and take great care
when working on the exhaust system (see
Chapter 4). Ensure that the converter is
well clear of any jacks or other lifting gear
used to raise the vehicle. Do not drive the
vehicle over rough ground, road humps,
etc, in such a way as to “ground” the
exhaust system.
(l) In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed fromthe exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles,
and seems to be due to the small amount
of sulphur found in some petrols reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust, to produce
hydrogen sulphide (H
2S) gas; while this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles,
the problem should disappear - in the
meanwhile, a change of driving style, or of
the brand of petrol used, may effect a
solution.
(m) The catalytic converter on a well-
maintained and well-driven vehicle should
last for between 50 000 and 100 000
miles. From this point on, careful checks
should be made at regular intervals to
ensure that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective, it must be renewed.
Checking
7Checking the operation of a catalytic
converter requires expensive and
sophisticated diagnostic equipment, starting
with a high-quality exhaust gas analyser. If the
level of CO in the exhaust gases is too high, a
full check of the engine management system
must be carried out (see Section 3 of this
Chapter) to eliminate all other possibilities
before the converter is suspected of being
faulty.
8The vehicle should be taken to a Ford
dealer for this work to be carried out using the
correct diagnostic equipment; do not waste
time trying to test the system without such
facilities.
Component renewal
9The catalytic converter is part of the
exhaust system front downpipe - see Chap-
ter 4 for details of removal and refitting.
6•20 Emissions control systems
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7Support the radiator in its raised position,
by inserting split pins through the small holes
in the radiator mounting extensions which
protrude through the upper mountings (see
illustration).
8Unbolt and remove the radiator lower
mounting brackets.
9Where applicable, unscrew the bolts
securing the air conditioning accumulator to
the subframe.
10Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the
engine rear mounting from the transmission
and underbody.
11Unscrew the front engine mounting-to-
cylinder block bolts, and also the through-
bolt.
12Extract the split pins from the track rod
end balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and
detach the rods from the arms on the steering
knuckles using a conventional balljoint
removal tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seals.
13Working on each side in turn, unscrew the
mounting nuts, and remove the anti-roll bar
links from the front suspension struts. Note
that, on models fitted with ABS, the ABS
sensor wiring support brackets are located
beneath the nuts.
14Working on each side in turn, note which
way round the front suspension lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle - if it is
tight, prise the joint open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
15Support the weight of the front subframe
assembly on two trolley jacks (or two scissor
jacks).
16Unscrew and remove the subframe
mounting bolts, then lower the subframe
sufficiently to gain access to the power
steering fluid pipes on top of the steering
gear. Note that the front subframe mountingbolts are gold in colour - the rear ones are
silver.
17Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts
securing the power steering fluid supply,
return, and cooler lines to the steering gear.
Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the
clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the
fluid to drain into the container. Cover the
apertures in the steering gear and also the
ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit.
18Lower the subframe, together with the
power steering gear, to the ground.
19Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the power steering gear from the subframe.
20Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the
clamp bolt securing the flexible coupling to
the pinion shaft on the steering gear, and
withdraw the coupling.
21Refer to Section 30, paragraph 8 for
details of renewing the Teflon rings.Refitting
22Refit the flexible coupling to the pinion
shaft on the steering gear, then insert and
tighten the clamp bolt using an Allen key.
23Locate the power steering gear on the
subframe, then insert the mounting bolts and
tighten to the specified torque.
24Raise the subframe until it is possible to
refit the fluid lines. Tighten the union nuts and
clamps.
25Raise the subframe, making sure that the
alignment holes are in line with the holes in
the underbody. At the same time, make sure
that the flexible coupling locates correctly on
the steering column. Ford technicians use a
special tool to ensure that the subframe is
correctly aligned - refer to Chapter 2 for more
details of the alignment procedure. With the
subframe aligned, insert and tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque. Note
that the front mounting bolts are gold in
colour - the rear bolts are silver.
26Working on each side in turn, refit the
front suspension lower arm balljoint to the
knuckle assembly, and insert the clamp bolt
with its head facing forwards. Refit the nut
and tighten to the specified torque.
27Working on each side in turn, refit the
anti-roll bar links and tighten the mounting
nuts to the specified torque. On models fitted
with ABS, don’t forget to locate the wheel
sensor wiring support brackets beneath the
nuts.
28Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Check if the split pin holes
are aligned, and if necessary turn the nuts to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert new split pins, and
bend them back to secure.
29Refit and tighten the engine front
mounting bolts.
30Refit the engine rear mounting and tighten
the bolts.31Where applicable, insert and tighten the
air conditioning accumulator bolts.
32Refit the radiator lower mounting brackets
and tighten the bolts.
33Remove the split pins supporting the
radiator in its raised position.
34Refit the cover under the radiator.
35Refit the exhaust downpipe as described
in Chapter 4.
36On manual transmission models,
reconnect the gearchange linkage and
support rods.
37Refit the front wheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
38Working inside the vehicle, reconnect the
steering column clamp plate, then insert the
bolt and tighten to the specified torque.
39Reconnect the battery negative lead.
40Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
41Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).
1Remove the track rod end and its locknut
from the track rod, as described in Section 35.
Make sure that a note is made of the exact
position of the track rod end on the track rod,
in order to retain the front wheel alignment
setting on refitting.
2Release the outer retaining clip and inner
plastic clamp band, and disconnect the gaiter
from the steering gear housing.
3Disconnect the breather from the gaiter,
then slide the gaiter off the track rod.
4Scrape off all grease from the old gaiter,
and apply to the track rod inner joint. Wipe
clean the seating areas on the steering gear
housing and track rod.
5Slide the new gaiter onto the track rod and
steering gear housing, and reconnect the
breather.
6Fit a new inner plastic clamp band and
outer retaining clip.
7Refit the track rod end as described in
Section 35.
8Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).
1Following any operation in which the power
steering fluid lines have been disconnected,
the power steering system must be bled, to
remove any trapped air.
2With the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, check the power steering fluid level
in the reservoir and, if low, add fresh fluid until
it reaches the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” mark.
Pour the fluid slowly, to prevent air bubbles
forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer
to Chapter 1 Specifications).
33 Power steering hydraulic
system - bleeding
32 Power steering gear rubber
gaiters - renewal
Suspension and steering systems 10•21
10
31.7 Method of supporting the radiator in
its raised position
1 Radiator upper mounting extension
2 Small hole
3 Pin or split pin inserted through hole
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 12 Body electrical system
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Air bag unit (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Anti-theft alarm system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Auxiliary warning system - general information and
component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Battery - check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Compact disc player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cruise control system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses, relays and timer module - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 8
Headlight levelling motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Radio/cassette player - coding, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radio/cassette player power amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Stop-light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
TCS inhibition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Trip computer module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade
check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Fuses (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse No Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
1 80 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power supply to main fusebox
2 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fans
3 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel engine glow plugs and/or ABS braking system
4 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition system, or ignition and daytime running lights
5 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (left-hand side)
6 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (right-hand side)
7 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS braking system
8 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning compressor/heated seats or air conditioning
compressor/daytime running lights
9 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU (petrol), Cold start solenoid (Diesel)
10 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
11 3 Violet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU memory
12 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn and hazard flasher warning system
13 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor
14 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
15 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (right-hand side)
16 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (left-hand side)
17 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (right-hand side)
18 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (left-hand side)
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
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Fuses (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
19 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated door mirrors
20 10 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front/rear wiper motor (circuit breaker)
21 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front electric windows (only)
21 40 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear electric windows
22 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS module
23 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reversing lights
24 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop-lights
25 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system/double-locking/anti-theft alarm
26 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights
27 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter
28 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system
29 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
30 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and auxiliary warning system
31 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument panel illumination
32 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio
33 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (left-hand side)
34 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and digital clock
35 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (right-hand side)
36 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air bag
37 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
38 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Adaptive damping
Relays (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R1 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daytime running lights (left-hand-drive, but not all countries) or dim-
dip lights (UK)
R2 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (high speed)
R3 Blue (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning cut-out
R3 Brown (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning in conjunction with Diesel engine
R4 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen heater time delay
R5 Dark green (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R5 Black (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R6 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starter solenoid
R7 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horns
R8 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
R9 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlights
R10 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlights
R11 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU power supply (petrol), cold start (Diesel)
Relays (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R12 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior, courtesy and footwell lights
R13 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
R14 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
R15 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper motor
R16 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition
Auxiliary relays (not in the fuseboxes)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected Location
R17 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel glow plug Battery tray
R18 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “One-touch down” Driver’s door
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . driver’s window relay
R19 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speed control cut-off Central fuse box bracket the
below instrument panel
R20 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system Bulb module bracket
R21 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear screen wiper interval Bulb module bracket
R22 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights (left-hand-drive only) Interface module bracket
R23 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction indicators Steering column
R24 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (left-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R25 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (right-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R26 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated seats Door lock module bracket
12•2 Body electrical system
procarmanuals.com

1A compact disc (CD) player is available as
an optional extra on most models. On some
models, an autochanger version is available,
which can hold a number of discs at a time.
Removal
2The battery negative (earth) lead should be
disconnected before commencing work.
CD player, or autochanger control
unit
3The procedure is identical to that for the
radio/cassette player described in Section 23.
CD player autochanger
4The CD player autochanger unit is mounted
on the right-hand side of the luggage
compartment. The wiring loom passes up the
“C” pillar, across to the left-hand side “A”
pillar, then to the centre console area.
5Remove the trim cover from the
autochanger unit.
6Unscrew the mounting screws, and remove
the autochanger unit from its mounting
bracket.
7Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
unit from inside the vehicle.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Remove the door trim panel as described in
Chapter 11.
2Unscrew the cross-head screws, and
withdraw the speaker from the door inner
panel.
3Disconnect the wiring and remove the
speaker.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Prise out the trim cover from the headlining
immediately below the base of the aerial.
2Unscrew the cross-head screw from the
base of the aerial, and remove the aerial mast.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Warning: Handle the air bag unit
with extreme care, as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with the
cover facing away from the body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag unit or its control
circuitry, consult a Ford dealer or other
qualified specialist.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding, wait
a minimum of 15 minutes, as a
precaution against accidental
firing of the air bag unit. This
period ensures that any stored energy in
the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2Rotate the steering wheel so that one of the
mounting bolt holes is visible above the
steering column upper shroud.
3Unscrew and remove the first mounting
bolt, then turn the steering wheel as
necessary and remove the remaining
mounting bolts (see illustration).
4Carefully withdraw the air bag unit from the
steering wheel far enough to disconnect the
wiring multi-plug, then remove it from inside
the vehicle (see illustration). Warning: Stand the unit with the
cover uppermost, and do not
expose it to heat sources in
excess of 100ºC.
Warning: Do not attempt to open
or repair the air bag unit, or apply
any electrical current to it. Do not
use any air bag unit which is visibly
damaged or which has been tampered
with.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding, wait
a minimum of 15 minutes, as a
precaution against accidental
firing of the air bag unit. This
period ensures that any stored energy in
the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2Remove the facia panel as described in
Chapter 11.
3Disconnect the multi-plug from the module,
by pressing the locking tab upwards and
swivelling the retaining strap.
4Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the module from the vehicle.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Remove the air bag unit as described in
Section 28.
2Disconnect the horn switch multi-plug.
3If fitted, disconnect the multi-plugs for the
cruise control.
4Remove the steering wheel and shrouds.
5Using a small screwdriver, release the
retaining tabs, then remove the clock spring
from the steering column.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but make sure that the steering
wheel is centralised. The clock spring must be
fitted in its central position, with the special
alignment marks aligned and the TOP mark
uppermost. To check for this position, turn the
clock spring housing anti-clockwise until it is
tight, then turn in the opposite direction by
two-and-three-quarter turns.
30 Air bag clock spring-
removal and refitting
29 Air bag control module -
removal and refitting
28 Air bag unit (driver’s side) -
removal and refitting
27 Radio aerial -
removal and refitting
26 Speakers -
removal and refitting
25 Compact disc player -
removal and refitting
12•22 Body electrical system
28.3 Unscrewing an air bag mounting bolt28.4 Disconnecting the air bag wiring
multi-plug (arrowed)
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