1993 DODGE TRUCK checking oil

•

BRAKES
i - 3 BRAKE DIAGNOSIS

INDEX

page

Brake
Warning Lights
3

Diagnosing
Brake Problems .................
4

Diagnosis
Procedures
3

Low
Vacuum
Switch—Diesel
Models
3
page

Master
Cylinder/Power Booster Test
5

Power
Booster
Check
Valve Test .............
6

Power
Booster
Vacuum
Test .................
6

Testing Diesel
Engine
Vacuum
Pump
Output
.... 6

DIAGNOSIS
PROCEDURES
Brake diagnosis involves determining
if the
prob­
lem
is
related
to a
mechanical, hydraulic
or
vacuum
operated component.
A
preliminary check, road test­
ing
and
component inspection
can all be
used
to de­

termine
a
problem cause. Road testing will either verify proper brake opera­
tion
or
confirm
the
existence
of a
problem. Compo­ nent inspection will,
in
most cases, identify
the
actual part causing
a
problem. The first diagnosis step
is the
preliminary check. This
involves inspecting fluid level, parking brake action,
wheel
and
tire condition, checking
for
obvious leaks
or

component damage
and
testing brake pedal response. A road test will confirm
the
existence
of a
problem.
Final diagnosis procedure involves road test analysis and
a
visual inspection
of
brake components.

BRAKE
WARNING LIGHTS
The
red
brake warning light
is
connected
to the

parking brake switch
and to the
pressure differential switch
in the
combination valve. The
red
light will illuminate when
the
parking
brakes
are
applied
or
when
a
fluid pressure drop
oc­
curs
in the
front
or
rear brake circuit.
The
light will
also illuminate
for
approximately
2-4
seconds
at en­

gine start
up.
This
is a
self test feature designed
to

check bulb
and
circuit operation each time
the en­

gine
is
started. The amber antilock light
is
connected
to the
anti-
lock rear brake hydraulic valve.
The
light will illu­
minate
if a
fault occurs within
the
antilock system.

LOW VACUUM SWITCH-DIESEL MODELS
On diesel models,
the red
brake warning light
is
also
used
to
alert
the
driver
of a low
brake booster vacuum
condition.
The
warning light
is in
circuit with
a
vacuum
warning switch mounted
on the
driver side fender
panel.
The
vacuum side
of the
switch
is
connected
to the

power brake booster.
The
electrical side
of the
switch
is
connected
to the
brake warning light. The
low
vacuum switch monitors booster vacuum
level whenever
the
engine
is
running.
If
booster vac­
uum falls below
8.5
inches vacuum
for a
minimum
of
10 seconds,
the
switch completes
the
circuit
to the

warning light causing
it to
illuminate.
The
warning light
is
designed
to
differentiate between
a low
vac­
uum condition
and a
hydraulic circuit fault.

PRELIMINARY
BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition
of
tires
and
wheels. Damaged
wheels
and
worn, damaged,
or
underinflated tires
can
cause pull, shudder, tramp,
and a
condition similar
to
grab.

(2)
If
complaint
was
based
on
noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front
and
rear
of

vehicle
and
listen
for
noise that might
be
caused
by

loose, worn
or
damaged suspension
or
steering compo­

nents.

(3) Inspect brake fluid level
and
condition. Note
that
the
front disc brake reservoir fluid level will drop
in
proportion
to
normal lining wear. Also note
that brake fluid tends
to
darken over time. This
is normal
and
should
not be
mistaken
for
con­
tamination.
If the
fluid
is
still clear
and
free
of

foreign material,
it is OK.

(a)
If
fluid level
is
abnormally
low,
look
for
evi­
dence
of
leaks
at
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake-
lines
and
master cylinder.
(b)
If
fluid appears contaminated, drain
out a

sample.
If
fluid
is
separated into layers,
or
obvi­
ously contains
oil or a
substance other than brake
fluid,
the
system seals
and
cups will have
to be re­

placed
and the
hydraulic system flushed.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement
and
full release
of
cables
and
pedal. Also
note
if
vehicle
was
being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does
not
bind
and has
adequate free play.
If
pedal
lacks free play, check pedal
and
power booster
for be­

ing loose
or for
bind condition.
Do not
road test until
condition
is
corrected.
(6)
If
components checked appear
OK,
road test
the

vehicle.

ROAD
TESTING (1)
If
complaint involved
low
brake pedal, pump
the pedal
and
note
if the
pedal comes back
up to
nor­ mal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral
and
engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure.

•

BRAKES
i - 7
BRAKE
ADJUSTMENTS-BRAKE
BLEEDING

INDEX

page

Brake
Fluid and Level 7

Brake
System
Bleeding 8
Rear
Brake
Adjustment 7

BRAKE
FLUID
AND
LEWEL

RECOMMENDED
FLUID The only brake fluid recommended for AD models
is Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent fluid meeting SAE
J1703
and DOT 3 standards.
Use new brake fluid only, to top off the master
cylinder or refill the system* Never use re­
claimed fluid, fluid not meeting the
SAE/DOT
standards, fluid marked 70R1, or fluid from a
container that has been left open for any length
of time. Using non recommended or unspecified
fluid can result in brake failure after hard pro­ longed braking.

BRAKE
FLUID
LEWEL Always clean the master cylinder cover before
checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt from the
cover could enter the fluid. Also check the cover seal
and replace it if torn or distorted.
Correct fluid level is to the bottom of the ring in­
dicators on models with a plastic reservoir and to
within 1/4 inch of the reservoir rim on all others. If necessary, add fluid to bring up to the proper level.
Note that on disc brake equipped vehicles, fluid level can be expected to fall as the brake pads wear.

BRAKE
FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Oil in the fluid will cause brake system rubber
seals to soften and swell. The seals may also become
porous and begin to deteriorate.
If fluid contamination is suspected, drain off a sam­
ple from the master cylinder. A suction gun or simi­ lar device can be used for this purpose.
Empty the drained fluid into a glass container.
Contaminants in the fluid will cause the fluid to sep­
arate into distinct layers. If contamination has oc­
curred, the system rubber seals, hoses and cups must
be replaced and the system thoroughly flushed with clean brake fluid.
Remember that brake fluid tends to darken
over time. Do not confuse this normal condition
with contamination.

REAR
BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT
The rear drum brakes are equipped with a self ad­
justing mechanism. Under normal circumstances, the only time adjustment is required is when the brake-
page

Stop
Light Switch Adjustment 9

Wheel
Nut Tightening 9
shoes are replaced; removed for access to other parts; or when one or both drums are replaced.
Adjustment can be performed with a standard
brake gauge or with adjusting tool C-3784.

ADJUSTMENT
WITH
STANDARD
BRAKE
GAUGE
(1) Verify that left/right automatic adjuster lever
and cable are properly connected and that parking
brakes are fully released. Be sure there is slack in cables.
(2) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge un­
til gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface. Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 1).

Fig.
1 Adjusting Gauge To Brake
Drum

(3) Reverse gauge and install it on brakeshoes
(Fig. 2). Position gauge legs at shoe centers as
shown. If gauge does not fit (too loose/too tight), ad­
just shoes. (4) Pull the shoe adjuster star wheel away from
the automatic adjuster lever.
(5) Turn the adjuster star wheel (by hand) to ex­
pand or retract the brakeshoes. Continue adjustment until the gauge outside legs are a light drag-fit on
the shoes (Fig. 2).
(6) Repeat adjustment at the opposite brakeshoe
assembly. (7) Install the brake drums and wheels and lower
the vehicle.
(8) Make final adjustment. Drive vehicle and make
one forward stop followed by one reverse stop. Repeat
procedure 8-10 times to actuate adjuster mechanism and equalize adjustment. Bring vehicle to complete

•

BRAKES
5 - 23
VACUUM PUMP OPERATION

Vacuum pump output is transmitted to the power
brake booster through a supply hose. The hose is con­ nected to an outlet port on the pump housing and to
the check valve in the power brake booster.
Pump output ranges from a minimum of 8.5 to 25
inches vacuum. The pump rotor and vanes are rotated by the pump
drive gear. The drive gear is operated by the cam­
shaft gear. Booster vacuum level is monitored by a warning
switch (Fig. 2). The switch consists of a vacuum
chamber that measures vacuum level and a sensor in
circuit with the brake warning light. The vacuum chamber is connected to the booster
check valve by a vacuum supply hose. A wire har­
ness connects the switch sensor to the brake warning
light. If booster vacuum falls below 8.5 inches for 8-10 seconds or more, the switch sensor completes
the circuit to the warning light causing it to illumi­

nate.

VACUUM PUMP DIAGNOSIS
Vacuum pump diagnosis involves checking pump
output with a vacuum gauge. The low vacuum warn­
ing switch can also be checked with a vacuum gauge.
Refer to the diagnosis procedure in this section. A standard vacuum gauge can be used to check
pump output when necessary. Simply disconnect the
pump supply hose and connect a vacuum gauge to
the outlet port for testing purposes. Vacuum should
hold steady in a range of approximately 8.5 to 25 inches at various engine speeds.
DIAGNOSING LOW VACUUM OUTPUT CONDITION A low booster vacuum condition or a faulty low
vacuum warning switch will cause the brake warn­ ing light to illuminate. If the light does go on and in­
dicates the existence of a low vacuum condition,
check the vacuum pump, booster and warning switch
as follows:
(1) Check vacuum pump oil feed line. Verify that
line connections are secure and not leaking. If leak­ age is noted and pump is noisy, replace pump.
(2) Disconnect supply hose to booster. Connect vac­
uum gauge to this hose and run engine at various
throttle openings. Output should range from 8.5 to 25 inches vacuum. If vacuum is consistently below
8.5 inches, problem is with vacuum hoses or pump
component. If output is within specified limits, con­
tinue testing.
(3) Check booster operation as described in diagno­
sis section. Replace check valve, vacuum hoses, or
booster if necessary. However, if booster operation is correct but warning light is still on, continue testing. (4) Disconnect vacuum hose at warning switch.
Plug hose and connect hand vacuum pump to switch. (5) Start and run engine.
(6) Apply 8.5 to 9 inches of vacuum to warning
switch and observe warning light. If light goes out,
switch vacuum hose is either loose or leaking. If
light remains on, leave engine running and continue
testing.
(7) Apply 20-25 inches vacuum to switch and ob­
serve warning light operation. If light now goes out,
switch is at fault and should be replaced. If light re­
mains on, continue testing.
(8) Reconnect vacuum hoses and replace original
warning switch with known good switch. Run engine and observe warning light operation. If light is now
off, old switch is faulty. If light remains on, problem
is in wiring between switch and warning light.

VACUUM-STEERING PUMP
ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Position drain pan under power steering pump.
(3) Disconnect vacuum and steering pump hoses
from respective pumps (Fig. 3).

Fig.
3
Vacuum
And Steering
Pump Hose
Connections

(4) Disconnect oil pressure sender wires at sender
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove oil pressure sender (Fig. 4).
(6) Disconnect lubricating oil feed line from fitting
at underside of vacuum pump (Fig. 5).
(7) Remove lower bolt that attaches pump assem­
bly to engine block (Fig. 6).
(8) Remove bottom, inboard nut that attaches
adapter to steering pump (Fig. 6). This nut secures a
small bracket to engine block. Nut and bracket must
be removed before pump assembly can be removed from block.

•

COOLING
SYSTEM
7 - 31 It utilizes thermal expansion and contraction of cool­
ant to keep coolant free of trapped air. It provides a
volume for expansion and contraction of coolant. It
also provides a convenient and safe method for
checking coolant level and adjusting level at atmo­
spheric pressure. This is done without removing ra­
diator pressure cap. It also provides some reserve
coolant to cover minor leaks and evaporation or boil­
ing losses.
FAN

SHROUD
J9107-67

Fig.
40 Coolant Reserve/Overflow Tank—Gas
Engines
Fig.
41 Coolant Reserve/Overflow Tank—Diesel
Engines

Refer to Coolant Level Check—Service, Deaeration
and Radiator Pressure Cap sections in this group for
coolant reserve/overflow system operation and ser­

vice.
Should the reserve/overflow tank become coated
with corrosion or emulsifiable oil, it can be cleaned
with detergent and water. Rinse tank thoroughly be­
fore refilling cooling system as described in the Cool­ ant section of this group.

TANK REMOVAL
(1) Remove overflow hose at reserve/overflow tank.
(2) Unsnap the coolant reserve/overflow tank from
fan shroud. Lift straight up. The fan shroud is
equipped with T-shaped slots to attach the tank.

TANK INSTALLATION
(1) Snap tank into fan shroud.
(2) Install overflow hose to tank.

RADIATOR
PRESSURE
CAP
Radiators are equipped with a pressure cap, which
releases pressure at some point within a range of 97- 124 kPa (14-18 psi). The pressure relief point (in
pounds) is engraved on top of cap. The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi­ ator cooling capacity. The cap (Fig. 42) contains a
spring-loaded pressure relief valve that opens when
system pressure reaches release range of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).

Fig.
42 Radiator
Pressure
Cap and
Filler
Neck—Typical
A vent valve in the center of cap allows a small
coolant flow through cap when coolant is below boil­
ing temperature. The valve is completely closed
when boiling point is reached. As the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum in the cooling sys­
tem. This causes the vacuum valve to open and cool­ ant in the reserve/overflow tank to be drawn through
its connecting hose into radiator. If the vacuum valve
is stuck shut, the radiator hoses will collapse on cool-
down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 42).
A rubber gasket seals radiator filler neck to pre­
vent leakage. This is done to keep system under

8D
- 10
IGNITION
SYSTEMS

• Arcing at the tower will carbonize the cable boot,
which if it is connected to a new ignition coil, will cause the coil to fail. If the secondary coil cable shows any signs of dam­

age,
it should be replaced with a new cable and new
terminal. Carbon tracking on the old cable can cause
arcing and the failure of a new ignition coil.

ENGINE
COOLANT
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
TEST
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its
circuitry, refer to the DRB II diagnostic scan tool.
Also refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics
Procedures manual. To test the sensor only, refer to
the following: The sensor is located in a water passage of the in­
take manifold next to the thermostat housing (Fig.
8).
(1) Disconnect wire harness connector from sensor
(Fig. 8). On engines with air conditioning, do not pull
directly on wiring harness. Fabricate an L-shaped
hook tool from a coat hanger (approximately eight inches long). Place the hook part of tool under the
connector for removal. The connector is snapped onto
the sensor. It is not equipped with a lock type tab.
COOLANT

TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
SENSOR RESISTANCE (OHMSJ
V

J9314-78

Fig. 8 Coolant Temperature Sensor—Typical (2) Test the resistance of the sensor with a high in­
put impedance (digital) volt-ohmmeter. The resis­ tance should be less than 1340 ohms at normal
engine operating idle temperature. For resistance
values, refer to the Sensor Resistance chart. Replace
the sensor if it is not within the range of resistance specified in the chart.
(3) Test continuity of the wire harness. This is
done between powertrain control module (PCM) wire
harness connector terminal-2 and the sensor connec­
tor terminal. Also check continuity between wire harness terminal-4 to the sensor connector terminal. Repair the wire harness if an open circuit is indi­
cated.
TEMPERATURE

RESISTANCE
(OHMS)

C
F
MIN
MAX

-40 -40 291,490 381,710
-20
-4
85,850
108,390
-10 14
49,250 61,430

0
32 29,330
35,990
10 50 17,990 21,810
20 68 11,370 13,610

25
77 9,120 10,880
30 86
7,370

8,750

40 104

4,900
5,750

50 122
3,330 3,880

60 140 2,310

2,670

70 158
1,630 1,870

80 176
1,170 1,340

90 194
860
970
100 212 640
720
110 230 480 540
120 248 370 410

J928D-4

IGNITION
SECONDARY
CIRCUIT
DIAGNOSIS

CHECKING FOR SPARK

CAUTION:
When
disconnecting a
high
voltage
cable

from
a spark
plug
or
from
the
distributor
cap,
twist
the rubber
boot
slightly
(1/2
turn)
to
break
it
loose.
Grasp
the
boot
(not the cable) and
pull
it off
with
a

steady,
even force.

(1) Disconnect the ignition coil secondary cable
from center tower of the distributor cap. Hold the ca­
ble terminal approximately 12 mm (1/2 in.) from a good engine ground (Fig. 9).
CHECK
HERE

FOR
SPARK
IGNITION

COIL
918D-18

Fig. 9 Checking for Spark—Typical

*
(1) Unplug the ignition coil harness connector at
the coil (Figs. 10 or 11).

Fig.
10
Coil
Harness
Connector—3.9/5.2L/5.9L
LDC-Gas
Engine

(2) Connect a set of small jumper wires (18 gauge
or smaller) between the ignition coil and coil electri­
cal connector (Fig. 12).
IGNITION
SYSTEMS
80 - 11

Fig.
11
Coil
Harness
Connector—5.9L
HDC-Gas
Engine

IGNITION
COIL COIL CONNECTOR

J928D-13

Fig.
12
Coil
Terminals—Typical (3) Determine that sufficient battery voltage (12.4
volts) is present for the starting and ignition sys­

tems.

(4) Crank the engine for 5 seconds while monitor­
ing the voltage at the coil positive terminal (Fig. 12):
• If the voltage remains near zero during the entire
period of cranking, refer to On-Board Diagnostics in Group 14, Fuel Systems. Check the powertrain con­
trol module and auto shut down relay.
• If voltage is at near battery voltage and drops to
zero after 1-2 seconds of cranking, check the power-
train control module circuit. Refer to On-Board Diag­ nostics in Group 14, Fuel Systems.
• If voltage remains at near battery voltage during
the entire 5 seconds, turn the key off. Remove the 60-way connector (Fig. 13) from the powertrain con­
trol module (PCM). Check 60-way connector for any spread terminals.
(5) Remove test lead from the coil positive termi­

nal.
Connect an 18 gauge jumper wire between the
battery positive terminal and the coil positive termi­
nal.
WARNING: BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN THE ENGINE

IS
CRANKING.
DO NOT PUT
YOUR HANDS NEAR
THE PULLEYS, BELTS
OR THE FAN. DO NOT
WEAR LOOSE
FITTING
CLOTHING.

(2) Rotate (crank) the engine with the starter mo­
tor and observe the cable terminal for a steady arc. If steady arcing does not occur, inspect the secondary
coil cable. Refer to Spark Plug Cables in this group.
Also inspect the distributor cap and rotor for cracks
or burn marks. Repair as necessary. If steady arcing occurs, connect ignition coil cable to the distributor
cap.

(3) Remove a cable from one spark plug.
(4) Using insulated pliers, hold the cable terminal
approximately 12 mm (1/2 in.) from the engine cylin­
der head or block while rotating the engine with the starter motor. Observe the spark plug cable terminal
for an arc. If steady arcing occurs, it can be expected
that the ignition secondary system is" operating cor­ rectly. If steady arcing occurs at the spark plug ca­

bles,
but the engine will not start, connect the DRB II diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the Powertrain Diag­
nostic Procedures service manual.

FAILURE
TO START TEST To prevent unnecessary diagnostic time and wrong
test results, the previous Checking For Spark test should be performed prior to this test.

WARNING: SET PARKING BRAKE
OR
BLOCK
THE
DRIVE WHEELS BEFORE PROCEEDING
WITH
THIS
TEST.

•

ENGINES
9 - 3
(3) Honing
should be
done
by moving the
hone
up

and down
fast
enough
to get a Crosshatch pattern.

The hone
marks should
INTERSECT
at 50° to 60° for

proper seating
of
rings (Fig.
1).

Fig.
1
Cylinder
Bore
Crosshatch
Pattern

(4)
A
controlled hone motor speed between
200 and

300
RPM is
necessary
to
obtain
the
proper Crosshatch angle.
The
number
of up and
down strokes
per

minute
can be
regulated
to get the
desired
50° to 60°
angle. Faster
up and
down strokes increase
the
cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing,
it is
necessary that
the
block
be

cleaned
to
remove
all
traces
of
abrasive.
Use a
brush
to wash parts with
a
solution
of hot
water
and
deter­ gent.
Dry
parts thoroughly.
Use a
clean, white, lint-
free cloth
to
check that
the
bore
is
clean.
Oil the

bores after cleaning
to
prevent rusting.

MEASURING
WITH
PLASTIGAGE
CRANKSHAFT
MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE Engine crankshaft bearing clearances
can be
deter­
mined
by use of
Plastigage,
or
equivalent.
The
fol­ lowing
is the
recommended procedures
for the use of

Plastigage:
(1) Remove
oil
film from surface
to be
checked.
Plastigage
is
soluble
in oil.

(2)
The
total clearance
of the
main bearings
can

only
be
determined
by
removing
the
weight
of the

crankshaft. This
can be
accomplished
by
either
of

two methods:

METHOD - 1
(PREFERRED)—Shim
the
bear­
ings adjacent
to the
bearing
to be
checked. This will
remove
the
clearance between upper bearing shell and
the
crankshaft. Place
a
minimum
of
0.254
mm
(0.010 inch) shim between
the
bearing shell
and the

adjacent bearing cap. Tighten
the
bolts
to 18 N*m (13

ft.
lbs.)
torque. •
ALL
ENGINES—When checking
No.l
main bear­
ing; shim
No.2
main bearing. •
ALL
ENGINES-When checking
No.2
main bear­
ing; shim
No.l and No.3
main bearing.
•
ALL
ENGINES-When checking No.3 main bear­
ing; shim
No.2 and No.4
main bearing.
•
5.2L, 5.9L AND 5.9L
(DIESEL)
EN­

GINES—When checking
No.4
main bearing; shim
No.3
and No.5
main bearing.
•
3.9L
ENGINE—When checking
No.4
main bear­
ing; shim
No.3
main bearing.
•
5.2L AND 5.9L
ENGINES—When checking
No.5

main bearing; shim
No.4
main bearing.
•
5.9L
(DIESEL) ENGINE-When checking
No.5

main bearing; shim
No.4 and No.6
main bearing.
•
5.9L
(DIESEL) ENGINE-When checking
No.6

main bearing; shim
No.5 and No.7
main bearing.
•
5.9L
(DIESEL) ENGINE-When checking
No.7

main bearing; shim
No.6
main bearing.
Remove
all
shims before assembling engine.
METHOD
- 2
(ALTERNATIVE)—The weight
of

the crankshaft
is
supported
by a
jack under
the
coun­
terweight adjacent
to the
bearing being checked.
(3) Place
a
piece
of
Plastigage across
the
entire
width
of the
bearing
cap
shell
(Fig. 2).
Position
the

Plastigage approximately
6.35 mm (1/4
inch)
off
cen­
ter
and
away from
the oil
holes.
In
addition, suspect areas
can be
checked
by
placing
the
Plastigage
in

that area. Tighten
the
bearing
cap
bolts
of the
bear­
ing being checked
to 115 N»m (85 ft. lbs.)
torque.
DO

NOT rotate
the
crankshaft
or the
Plastigage
may

be smeared, giving inaccurate results.

Fig.
2
Placement
of
Plastigage
in
Bearing
Shell

(4) Remove
the
bearing
cap and
compare
the
width
of
the
flattened Plastigage with
the
scale provided
on

the package
(Fig. 3).
Plastigage generally comes
in 2
scales
(one
scale
is in
inches
and the
other
is a
met­
ric scale). Locate
the
band closest
to the
same width.
This band shows
the
amount
of
clearance. Differ­ ences
in
readings between
the
ends indicate
the

amount
of
taper present. Record
all
readings taken (refer
to
Engine Specifications).
(5) Plastigage
is
available
in a
variety
of
clearance
ranges.
The
0.025-0.076
mm
(0.001-0.003 inch) range is usually
the
most appropriate
for
checking engine
bearing clearances.

9
- 4 ENGINES
•

RN861
Fig. 3 Clearance Measurement
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE Engine connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage, or equivalent. The
following is the recommended procedures for the use of Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing cap shell (Fig. 2). Position the
Plastigage approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off cen­
ter and away from the oil holes. In addition, suspect areas can be checked by placing the Plastigage in the
suspect area. (3) The crankshaft must be turned until the con­
necting rod to be checked starts moving toward the
top of the engine. Only then should the rod cap with
Plastigage in place be assembled. Tighten the rod
cap nut to 61 Nnn (45 ft. lbs.) torque. DO NOT ro­
tate the crankshaft or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving inaccurate results. (4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage with the scale provided on
the package (Fig. 3). Plastigage generally comes in 2 scales (one scale is in inches and the other is a met­
ric scale). Locate the band closest to the same width.
This band shows the amount of clearance. Differ­ ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken (refer to Engine Specifications). (5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 inch) range
is usually the most appropriate for checking engine
bearing clearances.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen­
tially, this repair consists of:
• Drilling out worn or damaged threads. • Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
• Installing an insert into the tapped hole.
This brings the hole back to its original thread

size.

CAUTION:
Be
sure
that
the tapped holes maintain
the original
center
line.

Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.

HYDROSTATIC
LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below. (1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System). (2) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and in­
take manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material. (4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the en­

gine.

CAUTION:
DO NOT use the starter motor to
rotate

the
crankshaft.
Severe
damage
could
occur.

(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank­
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. (8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N#m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. (11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N-m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (refer to Group 0, Lubrica­
tion and Maintenance). (15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.