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Braking
Braking action involves perception time
and reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the
brake pedal. That’s
perception time.
Then you have to bring up your foot and
do it. That’s
reaction time.
Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a
second. But that’s only an average.
It
might be less with one driver and as
long as two or three seconds
or more
with another. Age, physical condition,
alertness, coordination, and eyesight all
play a part.
So do alcohol, drugs and
frustration. But even in
3/4 of a second, a
vehicle moving at
60 mph (100 km/h)
travels
66 feet (20 m). That could. be a
lot of distance in an emergency,
so
keeping enough space between your
vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping
distances vary greatly with the surface
of the road (whether it’s pavement or
gravel); the condition of the road (wet,
dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of
your brakes.
Most drivers treat their brakes with
care. Some, however, overwork the
braking system with poor driving habits.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some
people drive in spurts
- heavy
acceleration followed by heavy
braking
- rather than keeping pace
with traffic. This is a mistake. Your
brakes
may not have time to cool
between hard stops. Your brakes will
wear out much faster
if you do a lot
of heavy braking.
your left foot rest lightly on the brake
pedal
while driving.
Don’t “ride” the brakes by letting
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Your Driving
GAU I IUN
... 128
A
“Riding” your brakes can
cause them to overheat to the
I
point that they won’t work well.
You might not be able to stop your
vehicle in time
to avoid an
accident. If you “ride” your
brakes, they will get
so hot they
will require a lot of pedal force
to
slow you down. Avoid “riding”
the brakes.
NU 1 /Ut
“Riding” the brakes wears them
)ut much faster. You would n
:ostly brake replacement mucl
iooner than normal, and it
-educes
fuel econo----
If you keep pace with the traffic and
allow realistic following distances, you
will eliminate a lot
of unnecessary
braking. That means better braking and
longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re
driving, brake normally but don’t
pump your brakes. If you do, the
pedal may get harder
to push down. If
your engine stops, you will still have
some power brake assist. But you will
use
it as you brake. Once the power
assist
is used up, it may take longer to
stop and the brake pedal will be
harder
to push.
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L
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) You slam on the brakes. Here’s what
Your vehicle has an advanced electronic happens with
ABS.
braking system that can help you keep it A computer senses that a rear wheel is
under control. When you stag your
-
vehicle and begin to drive away, you
may hear a momentary motor or
clicking noise. The ABS motor comes
on momentarily when the vehicle
reaches
8 mph (12 km/h). This is the
ABS system testing itself.
Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say
the road
is wet. You’re driving safely.
Suddenly an animal jumps
out in front
of you. slowing
down. The computer works the
brakes at the rear wheels. It is
programmed to make the most
of
available tire and road conditions.
As you brake, your computer keeps
receiving updates on rear wheel speed
and controls braking pressure
accordingly.
I
A
Anti-lock doesn’t change the
time you need to get your foot
up to the brake pedal.
If you get
too close to
the vehicle in front of
you, you won’t have time to apply
your brakes
if that vehicle
suddenly slows
or stops. Always
leave enough room up ahead to
stop, even though you have
anti-lock brakes.
129.
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Your Driving and the Road
To Use Anti-Lock:
Use rear wheel anti-lock like regular
brakes.
You may feel the brakes vibrate,
or you may notice some noise outside
your vehicle, but this is normal. Let
anti-lock work for you, but remember:
Your front wheels can still stop rolling.
If that happens, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling
again
so that you can steer.
With the four-wheel-drive option, you
won't have anti-lock braking when you
shift into four-wheel drive. But you will
have regular braking. When you shift
back into two-wheel drive, you will
have anti-lock again.
- 130
Disc Brake Wear Indicators
Your Geo has front disc and rear drum
brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear
worn and new pads are needed. The
sound may come and go
or be heard all
the time your vehicle is moving (except
when you are pushing on the brake
pedal firmly).
t
The brake wear warning
l sound means that sooner or
1; : your brakes won't work well.
I'hat could lead to an accident.
When you hear the brake wear
cerviced.
indicators
that make
a high-pitched
warning
sound when the brake Pads are I I warning sound, have your vehicle
I
II
IVV I IUL
Continuing to drive with worn-out
brake pads cc
in cost'
brake rep;
'I
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Some driving conditions or climates may
cause a brake squeal when the brakes
are first applied or lightly applied. This
does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
~ Rear Drum Brakes
Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear
indicators, but if you ever hear a rear
brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake
linings inspected. Also, the rear brake
drums should be removed and inspected
each time the tires are removed for
rotation or changing. When you have
the front brakes replaced, have the rear
brakes inspected, too. Brake
linings should always be replaced
as complete axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does
not return to normal height, or if there
is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This
could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a moderate brake
stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.
If you rarely make a moderate or
heavier stop, then your brakes might not
adjust correctly. If you drive in that
way, then
- very carefully - make a few moderate
brake stops about every
1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes
will adjust properly.
If your brake pedal goes down farther
than normal, your rear drum brakes may
need adjustment. Adjust them by
backing up and firmly applying the
brakes a few times.
131
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Your Driving and the Road
II. 132
Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets
into a situation that requires hard
braking.
You have the rear wheel
anti-lock braking system. Your front
wheels can stop rolling when you brake
very hard. Once they do, the vehicle
can’t respond to your steering.
Momentum will carry it in whatever
direction it was headed when
the wheels
stopped rolling. That could be off the
road, into the very thing you
were
trying to avoid, or into traffic.
So, use a “squeeze” braking technique.
This
will give you maximum braking
while maintaining steering control. You
do this by pushing on the brake pedal
with steadily increasing pressure. When
you do, you can maintain steering
control. In many emergencies, steering
can help you more than even the very
best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because
the engine stops or the system fails to
function, you can steer but
it will take
much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a
reasonable speed.
A lot of the ‘‘driver lost control”
accidents mentioned on the news happen
on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of
us
is subject to the same laws of physics
when driving on curves. The traction
of
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the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its
path when you turn the front wheels. If
there’s no traction, inertia will keep the
vehicle going in the same direction. If
you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on
wet ice, you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get
in a curve
depends on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which
the curve is banked, and your speed.
While you’re
in a curve, speed is the
one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp
curve. Then you suddenly apply the
brakes. Both control systems
- steering
i and braking - have to do their work where the tires
meet the road. Adding
the hard braking can demand too much
at those places.
You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you’re
steering through a sharp curve and you
suddenly accelerate. Those two control
systems
- steering and acceleration -
can overwhelm those places where the
tires meet the road and make you lose
control.
What should you do if this ever
happens? Let up
on the brake or
accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the
way you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that
you should adjust your speed.
Of
course, the posted speeds are based on
good weather and road conditions.
Under less favorable conditions you’ll
want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you
approach a curve, do it before you enter
the curve, while your front wheels are
straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed
so you can
“drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve,
and then accelerate gently into the
straightaway.
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Your Driving and the Road
When you drive into a curve at night,
it’s harder to see the road ahead of you
because it bends away from the straight
beams of your lights. This is one good
reason to drive slower.
134
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be
more effective than braking. For
example, you come over a hill and
find
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car
suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a
child darts out from between parked cars
and stops right in front of you.
You can
avoid these problems by braking
- if
you can stop in time. But sometimes you
can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time
for evasive action
- steering around the
problem.
Your Geo can perform very well in
emergencies like these. First apply your brakes,
but not enough to lock your
front wheels. It is better to remove as
much speed as you can from a possible
collision. Then steer around the
problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.
An emergency like this requires close
attention and a quick decision.
If you
are holding the steering wheel at the
recommended
9 and 3 o’clock positions,
you can turn it a full
180 degrees very
quickly without removing either hand.
But
you have to act fast, steer quickly,
and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
You
must then be prepared to steer back to
your original lane and then brake to a
controlled stop.
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