1988 OPEL CALIBRA check oil

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

outboard pad and anti-squeal shim that fits
between the pad and the caliper body.
7Withdraw the inboard pad and anti-squeal
shim.
Refitting
8Proceed as described in Section 4,
paragraphs 10 and 11.
9Check that the cutaway recesses in the
pistons are positioned downwards, at
approximately 23°to the horizontal. A
template made of card may be used to check
the setting (see illustration). If necessary,
carefully turn the pistons to their correct
positions.
10Apply a little brake grease to the top and
bottom edges of the backplates on the new
brake pads.
11Locate the new pads and the anti-squeal
shims in the caliper. Ensure that the friction
material faces the disc, and check that the
pads are free to move slightly.
12Locate the anti-rattle spring on the pads,
then insert the pad retaining pins from the
inside edge of the caliper, while depressing
the spring. Tap the pins firmly into the caliper.
13Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
14Proceed as described in Section 4,
paragraphs 17 to 20 inclusive.
6Rear brake shoes (drum
brakes) - inspection, removal
and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1It is recommended that the brake shoes are
inspected when necessary by removing the
drums. This will enable a proper inspection of
the linings to be made, and additionally, the
wheel cylinders can be inspected for leaks. If
preferred, however, a provisional inspection of
the state of wear of the rear shoe linings can
be made by removing the plugs from the
inspection holes in the brake backplates.2Use a torch or inspection lamp, and if
necessary a mirror, to check that the friction
material has not worn down to less than the
specified minimum.
3If any one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, all four rear brake shoes must
be renewed as a set, as follows.
Removal
4Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheels.
5Fully release the handbrake.
6Extract the drum securing screw and
remove the drum. If the drum is tight, remove
the plug from the inspection hole in the brake
backplate, and push the handbrake operating
lever towards the brake shoe to move the
shoes away from the drum. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjuster (see
illustrations).
7Note the location and orientation of all
components before dismantling, as an aid to
reassembly.
8Clean the dust and dirt from the drum and
shoes, but take care not to inhale it.
9Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by depressing the cups and turning
them through 90°using a pair of pliers (see
illustrations). Note that the hold-down pins
are removed through the rear of the brake
backplate.
10Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
operating lever.11The upper and lower return springs may
now be unhooked and the shoes removed
separately, or the assembly of shoes, adjuster
strut and springs may be removed together.
Remove the hub, refer to Chapter 10, if
necessary. Take care not to damage the
wheel cylinder rubber boots. Before removing
the return springs, note the position and
orientation of the springs and adjuster strut.
12If the shoes are to be removed for some
time, fit a stout rubber band or a spring clip to
the wheel cylinder, to prevent the pistons from
being pushed out of their bores. In any event,
do not press the brake pedal while the drum is
removed.
Refitting
13Clean the dust and dirt from the brake
backplate, but take care not to inhale it.
14Apply a small amount of brake grease to
the shoe rubbing areas on the backplate.
15Investigate and rectify any source of
contamination of the linings (wheel cylinder or
hub bearing oil seal leaking).
16Although linings are available separately
(without shoes), renewal of the shoes
complete with linings is to be preferred,
unless the reader has the necessary skills and
equipment to fit new linings to the old shoes.
17If not already done, dismantle the shoes,
strut and springs. Note the position and
orientation of the components. On later
models (1992-on), the brake shoe lower
anchorage has been modified so that it is now
rectangular, necessitating modified brake
shoes and a modified lower return spring (see
illustration).
9•6Braking system
5.9 Checking a rear caliper piston cut
away recess angle with a card template6.6B Push the handbrake operating lever
to move the shoes away from the drum
6.9B . . . then withdraw the cup and spring6.9A Release the shoe hold-down cup . . .
6.6A Extracting a brake drum securing
screw

Rear disc - DOHC models
Removal
15Where applicable, remove the roadwheel
bolt and spacer used when checking the disc.
16Remove the disc pads, as described in
Section 5.
17Remove the brake caliper with reference
to Section 9, but leave the hydraulic fluid pipe
connected. Move the caliper to one side, and
suspend it using wire or string to avoid
straining the pipe.
18Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub (see illustration). If the
disc is tight, collapse the handbrake shoes by
inserting a screwdriver through the adjuster
hole in the disc and turning the adjuster
wheel.
Refitting
19Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the mating faces of the disc
and hub are perfectly clean, and apply a little
locking fluid to the threads of the securing
screw. Refit the disc pads, as described in
Section 5.
11Brake drum - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Fully release the handbrake.
3Extract the drum securing screw and
remove the drum. If the drum is tight, remove
the plug from the inspection hole in the brake
backplate, and push the handbrake operating
lever towards the brake shoe to move theshoes away from the drums. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjuster.
Inspection
4Brush the dirt and dust from the drum,
taking care not to inhale it.
5Examine the internal friction surface of the
drum. If they are deeply scored, or so worn
that the drum has become ridged to the width
of the shoes, then both drums must be
renewed.
6Regrinding of the friction surface is not
recommended, since the internal diameter of
the drum will no longer be compatible with the
shoe friction material contact diameter.
Refitting
7Refit the brake drum and tighten the
securing screw. If necessary, back off the
adjuster wheel until the drum will pass over
the shoes.
8Adjust the brakes by operating the
footbrake a number of times. A clicking noise
will be heard at the drum as the automatic
adjuster operates. When the clicking stops,
adjustment is complete.
9Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground. Do not fully tighten the roadwheel
bolts until the vehicle is resting on its wheels.
12Rear wheel cylinder (drum
brakes) - removal, overhaul
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the notes at the beginning of
Sections 3 and 11 before proceeding. Before
dismantling a wheel cylinder, check that
replacement parts can be obtained, and retain
the old components to compare them with the
new ones
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
2Fully release the handbrake.3Extract the drum securing screw and
remove the drum. If the drum is tight, remove
the plug from the inspection hole in the brake
backplate, and push the handbrake operating
lever towards the brake shoe to move the
shoes away from the drum. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjuster.
4Using a pair of pliers, unhook the upper
return spring from the brake shoes, noting its
orientation, then push the upper ends of the
shoes apart until they are clear of the wheel
cylinder (see illustration).
5Working under the bonnet, remove the
brake fluid reservoir cap and secure a piece of
polythene over the filler neck with a rubber
band, or by refitting the cap. This will reduce
the loss of fluid during the following
procedure.
6Unscrew the brake fluid pipe union nut from
the rear of the wheel cylinder, and disconnect
the pipe (see illustration). Take care not to
strain the pipe. Be prepared for fluid spillage,
and plug the open ends to prevent dirt ingress
and further fluid loss.
7Unscrew the two securing bolts from the
rear of the brake backplate, and withdraw the
wheel cylinder.
Overhaul
8If desired, the wheel cylinder can be
overhauled as follows. Otherwise, go on to
paragraph 17 for details of refitting.
9Brush the dirt and dust from the wheel
cylinder, but take care not to inhale it.
10Pull the rubber dust seals from the ends of
the cylinder body.
11The pistons will normally be ejected by
the pressure of the coil spring. If they are not,
tap the end of the cylinder body on a piece of
wood, or apply low air pressure (e.g. from a
foot pump), to the hydraulic fluid union hole in
the rear of the cylinder body, to eject the
pistons from their bores.
12Inspect the surfaces of the pistons and
their bores in the cylinder body for scoring, or
evidence of metal-to-metal contact. If evident,
renew the complete wheel cylinder assembly.
Note that the later type of wheel cylinder can
be used to replace the early type as a
complete unit.
Braking system 9•11
12.6 Unscrewing rear wheel cylinder brake
fluid pipe union12.4 Rear brake assembly
1 Wheel cylinder
2 Upper shoe return spring (note
orientation)
10.18 Withdrawing the rear brake disc -
DOHC model
9

1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Air inlet temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Alternator V-belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Automatic transmission check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Bodywork check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Brake shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Clutch cable check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Distributor and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Door lock key battery - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Handbrake linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Headlamp alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Lock and hinge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Manual transmission fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Power steering fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Power steering pump drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Radiator inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rear suspension level control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Spark plug renewal (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Spark plug renewal (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Throttle linkage maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
1•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Lubricants and fluids
Refer to “Weekly Checks”
Capacities
Engine oil
Including filter:
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.0 litres
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.5 litres
1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres
20 XEJ and C 20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres
X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres
Quantity of oil required to raise level on dipstick from “MIN” to “MAX”:
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 litre
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 litre
Cooling system (approx.)
1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5.6 litres
1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2) - manual transmission . . . . . . . . . .5.8 litres
1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2) - automatic transmission . . . . . . . .5.6 litres
C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models - manual transmission . . . . .7.2 litres
C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models - automatic transmission . . .7.1 litres
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.2 litres
Transmission
Manual transmission codes:
F10 and F13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.6 litres
F16, F18 and F20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.9 litres
Automatic - at fluid change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.0 to 3.5 litres
Difference between dipstick MAX and MIN marks -approximate:
+ 20°C side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.25 litre
+ 80°C side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.40 litre
Power steering fluid
Approximately . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 litre
Fuel tank
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63.0 ±2 litres
Washer fluid
Without headlamp washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.6 litres
With headlamp washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres
Engine
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion G102
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Protection down to -15°C (5°F)
50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Protection down to -30°C (-22°F)
Note:
Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system
Note:Ignition timing adjustment is not possible on some models, shown for information only.
For further details refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as applicable.
Idle speed:
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .925 ±25 rpm
16 SV
Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .925 ±25 rpm
Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .825 ±25 rpm
18 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .925 ±25 rpm
C 16 NZ and X 16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .850 ±80 rpm
C 16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .880 ±80 rpm
C 18 NZ
Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .880 ±80 rpm
Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .830 ±80 rpm
20 NE, C 20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .800 ±80 rpm
20 XEJ and C 20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .940 ±80 rpm
X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .850 ±160 rpm
1•2Servicing Specifications

Idle mixture CO content:
All carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.5 to 1.5%
20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 max.
20 XEJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 to 1.2%
All other injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.3 % (at 2800 to 3200 rpm)
Air filter element:
1.4 and 1.6 litre ‘round type’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion W103
1.6 and 1.8 litre ‘square type’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion U512
1.8 litre ‘round type’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion type not available
2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion U554
Fuel filter:
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre ‘in-line’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion L201
Ignition system:
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Refer to Chapter 5
Spark plugs
SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC
DOHC models:
except C20 XE and X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RC9MCC *
C20 XE and X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Vauxhall P/N 90444724 (FR8LDC)
Plug gap:
RN9YCC and RC9MCC * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 mm
RN9YC * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 mm
FR8LDC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 to 0.8 mm
* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to the
manufacturer’s recommendations
Brakes
Minimum pad friction material thickness (including backing plate):
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.0 mm
Minimum shoe friction material thickness:
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.5 mm above rivet heads
Tyres
Tyre size:
51/2 J x 13 wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165 R13-82T
51/2 J x 14 wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175/70 R14-82T, 195/60 R14-85H, or 195/60 R14-85V
6J x 15 wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195/60 R15-87V or 205/55 R15-87V
PressuresSee “Weekly checks”
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Automatic transmission drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Roadwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11081
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Engine oil (sump) drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Servicing Specifications 1•3
1
The maintenance intervals in this manual
are provided with the assumption that you,
not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals
recommended by the manufacturer for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your
vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may
wish to perform some of these procedures
more often. We encourage frequent
maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of
your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used
to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow
speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,more frequent maintenance intervals are
recommended. Vauxhall recommend that the
service intervals are halved for vehicles that
are used under these conditions.
When the vehicle is new, it should be
serviced by a factory-authorised dealer
service department, to preserve the factory
warranty.
Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety
and for getting the best in terms of
performance and economy from your vehicle.
Over the years, the need for periodic
lubrication -oiling, greasing, and so on -has
been drastically reduced, if not eliminated.
This has unfortunately tended to lead someowners to think that because no action is
required, components either no longer exist,
or will last for ever. This is certainly not the
case; it is essential to carry out regular visual
examination comprehensively to spot any
possible defects at an early stage before they
develop into major expensive repairs.
The following service schedules are a list of
the maintenance requirements, and the
intervals at which they should be carried out,
as recommended by the manufacturers.
Where applicable, these procedures are
covered in greater detail near the beginning of
each relevant Chapter.
Maintenance schedule

1•4Maintenance schedule
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
MRefer to “Weekly checks”
Basic service, every 9000 miles
(15 000 km) or 12 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the items in “Weekly checks”, carry out the
following:
MRenew the engine oil and oil filter (Section 3).
MCheck all hoses and other components for fluid
leaks (Section 4).
MCheck the steering and suspension components
(Section 5).
MCheck the condition of the driveshaft rubber
gaiters (Section 6).
MCheck the automatic transmission fluid level (if
applicable), (Section 7).
MCheck the radiator for blockage (e.g. dead insects)
and clean as necessary (Section 8).
MCheck and adjust the idle speed and mixture (if
applicable), (Section 9).
MCheck the throttle linkage and lubricate if
necessary (Section 10).
MCheck the exhaust system for corrosion, leaks and
security (Section 11).
MCheck all wiring for condition and security
(Section 12).
MCheck and adjust the ignition timing (if applicable),
(Section 13).
MRenew the brake fluid (Section 14).
MCheck the brake pad friction material for wear
(Section 15).
MCheck the handbrake linkage (Section 16).
MCheck the power steering fluid level (if applicable),
(Section 17).
MCheck the power steering pump drivebelt (if
applicable), (Section 18).
MCheck the rear suspension level control system
height, if fitted (Section 19).
MCheck the bodywork (Section 20).
MLubricate all locks and hinges (Section 21).
MCheck the alternator V-belt (Section 22).
MCheck the headlamp alignment (Section 23).
MReplace battery in the door-lock key (if applicable),
(Section 24).
MCarry out a road test (Section 25).
Note: Vauxhall specify that an Exhaust Emissions Test should be
carried out at least annually. However, this requires special
equipment, and is performed as part of the MOT test (refer to the
end of the manual).
Full service, every 18 000 miles
(30 000 km) or 24 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the ‘basic service’, carry out the following:
MRenew the coolant (Section 26).
MRenew the air cleaner element (Section 27).
MCheck the operation of the air cleaner air inlet
temperature control (carburettor models only),
(Section 28).
MRenew the fuel filter (Section 29).
MRenew the spark plugs (SOHC only), (Section 30) *.
MInspect and clean the distributor cap and HT leads
(Section 31).
MCheck the clutch cable adjustment (Section 32).
MCheck the manual transmission oil level (Section 33).
MCheck the automatic transmission (Section 34).
MCheck the brake drum shoe for wear (Section 35).
Major service, every 36 000 miles
(60 000 km) or 48 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the ‘full service’, carry out the following:
MRenew timing belt (Section 36).
MRenew the spark plugs (DOHC models only),
(Section 37).
MRenew automatic transmission fluid (Section 38) *.
* Note: If a vehicle is used for heavy-duty work (e.g. taxi work,
caravan/trailer towing, mostly short-distance, stop-start city driving)
the fluid must be changed every 36 months or 27 000 miles (45 000
km), whichever occurs first.

test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the
extent of the work to be carried out. If, for
example, a compression test indicates serious
internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the
engine. It may also prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work is
carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”)
b)Check all the engine related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”)
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Sections 18 and 22, as
appropriate).
d)Renew the spark plugs (Sections 30 and
37, as appropriate).
e)Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and
HT leads, as applicable (Section 31).
f)Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 27).
g)Check the fuel filter (Section 29).
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 4).i)Check the idle speed and mixture
settings, as applicable (Section 9).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c)Check the fuel system (Chapters 4A and
4B).
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 31).
e)Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 31).
3Engine oil and filter - renewal
2
1Ideally, the oil should be drained with the
engine hot, just after the vehicle has been
driven.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield to expose the sump drain plug
and the oil filter.
3Place a container beneath the oil drain plug
at the rear of the sump.
4Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover, then using a socket or spanner,
unscrew the oil drain plug, and allow the oil to
drain (see illustration). Take care to avoid
scalding if the oil is hot.
5Allow ten to fifteen minutes for the oil to
drain completely, then move the container
and position it under the oil filter.6On 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, improved
access to the oil filter can be gained by
jacking up the front of the vehicle and
removing the right-hand roadwheel (see
illustration). Ensure that the handbrake is
applied, and that the vehicle is securely
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”). Note that further oil may
drain from the sump as the vehicle is raised.
7Using a strap wrench or a filter removal tool
if necessary, slacken the filter and unscrew it
from the mounting. Alternatively, if the filter is
very tight, a screwdriver can be driven
through the filter casing and used as a lever.
Discard the filter.
8Wipe the mating face on the filter mounting
with a lint-free rag, then smear the sealing ring
of the new filter with clean engine oil of the
specified grade.
9Screw the new filter into position and
tighten it by hand only, do not use any tools.
10Where applicable, refit the roadwheel and
lower the vehicle to the ground. Fully tighten
the roadwheel bolts with the vehicle resting on
its wheels.
11Examine the condition of the oil drain plug
sealing ring and renew if necessary, then refit
the drain plug and tighten it to the specified
torque. 12Refill the engine through the filler on the
camshaft cover, using the specified grade and
quantity of oil. Fill until the level reaches the
“MAX” mark on the dipstick, allowing time for
the oil to drain through the engine to the
sump.
13Refit the oil filler cap, then start the engine
and check for leaks. Note that the oil pressure
warning lamp may stay illuminated for a few
seconds when the engine is started as the oil
filter fills with oil.
14Stop the engine and recheck the oil level,
topping-up if necessary.
15On DOHC models, refit the engine
undershield.
16Dispose of the old engine oil safely; do not
pour it down a drain.
4Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Remember that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this
manual.
Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•9
3.6 Oil filter viewed through right-hand
wheel arch - SOHC model3.4 Sump drain plug location -
2.0 litre DOHC model
(engine undershield removed)
1
Basic service, every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
As the drain plug releases
from the threads, move it
away quickly so the stream
of oil, running out of the
sump, goes into the container not up
your sleeve (see illustration).
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.