1988 OPEL CALIBRA check oil

14Insert the rod and piston into the top of
the cylinder bore, so that the base of the
compressor stands on the block. Check that
the connecting rod markings are towards the
side of the engine noted during removal. Note
that the arrow or notch, as applicable, on the
piston crown should point towards the timing
belt end of the engine, and the lugs on the
connecting rods should point towards the
flywheel end of the engine (see illustrations).
15Apply the wooden handle of a hammer to
the piston crown and tap the assembly into
the bore, at the same time releasing the
compressor (see illustration).
16Oil the relevant crankpin, then guide the
big-end of the connecting rod near to the
crankpin, and pull it firmly onto the crankpin.
Ensure that the bearing shell remains in
position in the connecting rod.
17Fit the big-end cap, with the markings
towards the side of the engine noted during
removal (see illustration). Note that the lug
should point towards the flywheel end of the
engine.
18Fit new big-end cap bolts, and tighten
them to the specified torque in the two stages
given in the Specifications (see illustrations).
19Repeat the procedure on the remaining
three assemblies.
20Refit the sump baffle (where applicable),
oil pick-up pipe and sump, as described in
Section 29.
21Refit the cylinder head, as described
previously in this Section 20.
33Pistons and connecting rods
-examination and renovation
4
Examination
1Examine the mating faces of the big-end
caps to see if they have ever been filed, in a
mistaken attempt to take up bearing wear.
This is extremely unlikely, but if evident, the
offending connecting rods and caps must be
renewed.
2Check the alignment of the rods visually,
and if all is not well, take the rods to a
Vauxhall dealer for a more detailed check.
3The gudgeon pins are an interference
(shrink) fit in the connecting rod small ends.
Separation of the pistons and rods is a job for
a dealer due to the special tools required, asis any remedial action required if the gudgeon
pin is no longer an interference fit in the rod.
4Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring and
scratches.
5If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
pistons, expand the old rings over the tops of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections, and note
which way up each ring is fitted, for use when
refitting (see illustrations).
Renovation
6Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into their relevant cylinder bores,
and check that the ring end gaps are within the
specified limits using a feeler blade (see
illustration). Check the ring gaps at the upper
and lower limits of the piston travel in the bores.
2A•30SOHC engine procedures
32.14A Piston crown arrow must point
towards timing belt end of engine -
1.6 litre engine32.14C Lugs (arrowed) on connecting rod
and big-end cap must point towards
flywheel end of engine - 1.6 litre engine
33.5A Using a feeler blade to aid removal
of a piston ring - 2.0 litre SOHC engine32.18B . . .then through the specified
angle - 2.0 litre SOHC engine32.18A Tighten the big-end cap bolts to
the specified torque . . .
32.17 Fitting a big-end bearing cap -
2.0 litre SOHC engine32.15 Tapping a piston into its bore -
2.0 litre SOHC engine
32.14B . . .and similarly for the 2.0 litre
SOHC engine

7If any of the ring end gaps exceed the
specified tolerance, the relevant rings will have
to be renewed, and if the ring grooves in the
pistons are worn, new pistons may be required.
8Clean out the piston ring grooves using a
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Take
care not to scratch the surface of the pistons.
Protect your fingers, piston ring edges are
sharp. Also probe the groove oil return holes,
to ensure that they are not blocked.
9Check the cylinder bores for signs of wear
ridges towards the top of the bores. If wear
ridges are evident, and new piston rings are
being fitted, the top ring must be stepped to
clear the wear ridge, or the bore must be
de-ridged using a scraper.
10Fit the oil control ring sections with the
lower steel ring gap offset 25 to 50 mm to the
right of the spreader ring gap, and the upper
steel ring gap offset by the same distance to
the left of the spreader ring gap.
11Fit the lower compression ring, noting that
the ring is tapered or stepped. The ring should
be fitted with the word “TOP” uppermost.
12Fit the upper compression ring, and offset
the ring gap by 180°to the lower compression
ring gap. If a stepped ring is being fitted, fit
the ring with the smaller diameter of the step
uppermost.
13If new pistons are to be fitted, they must
be selected from the grades available, after
measuring the cylinder bores as described in
Section 36.
14Normally the appropriate oversize pistons
are supplied by the dealer when the block is
rebored.15Whenever new piston rings are being
installed, the glaze on the original cylinder
bores should be “broken”, using either
abrasive paper or a glaze-removing tool in an
electric drill. If abrasive paper is used, use
strokes at 60°to the bore centre line, to create
a cross-hatching effect.
34Crankshaft and bearings -
removal and refitting
4
Note: New main bearing cap bolts must be
used on refitting
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
continue as follows.
2Remove the cylinder head, as described
previously in Section 20.
3Remove the sump, oil pick-up pipe and
sump baffle (where applicable), as described
in Section 29.
4Remove the oil pump, as described in
Section 30.
5Remove the flywheel or flexplate (if
applicable), as described in Sections 25 and
26.
6Remove the pistons and connecting rods,
as described in Section 32.
7Invert the engine so that it is standing on
the top face of the cylinder block.
8The main bearing caps are numbered 1 to 4
from the timing belt end of the engine. The
rear (flywheel end) cap is not marked. Toensure that the caps are refitted the correct
way round, note that the numbers are read
from the coolant pump side of the engine with
the engine inverted (see illustration).
9Unscrew and remove the main bearing cap
bolts, and tap off the bearing caps. If the
bearing shells are to be re-used, tape them to
their respective caps.
10Note that the centre bearing shell
incorporates thrust flanges to control
crankshaft endfloat.
11Lift the crankshaft (complete with timing
sensor wheel, if fitted), from the crankcase.
12Extract the upper bearing shells, and
identify them for position if they are to be
re-used.
13The crankshaft, bearings and sensor
wheel can be examined for wear and damage,
as described in Section 35, and the cylinder
block and bores can be examined as
described in Section 36.
Refitting
14Begin refitting by ensuring that the
crankcase and crankshaft are thoroughly
clean, and that all oilways are clear. If
possible, blow through the oil drillings with
compressed air, and inject clean engine oil
into them.
15If the crankshaft is being replaced, where
applicable, transfer the timing sensor wheel
and tighten to correct torque.
16Wipe clean the bearing shell seats in the
crankcase and the bearing caps, then fit the
upper bearing shells to their seats.
17Note that there is a tag on the back of
each bearing shell, which engages with a
groove in the relevant seat in the crankcase or
bearing cap (see illustration).
18If new bearing shells are being fitted, wipe
away all traces of protective grease.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•31
33.6 Measuring a piston ring end gap
using a feeler blade34.8 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre engine34.17 Main bearing shell tag (arrowed)
engages with groove in cylinder block -
2.0 litre SOHC engine
33.5C Sectional view showing correct
orientation of piston rings - all engines33.5B Removing the centre section of the
oil control ring - 2.0 litre SOHC engine
2A
A good alternative to
compressed air, is to use a
water dispersing lubricant
spray into each hole, using
the spout provided.

19Note that the central bearing shells have
thrust flanges which control crankshaft
endfloat (see illustration). Note also that the
shells fitted to the crankcase all have oil duct
holes, while only the centre main bearing cap
shell has an oil duct hole.
20When the shells are firmly located in the
crankcase and the bearing caps, lubricate
them with clean engine oil.
21Fill the lips of a new crankshaft rear oil
seal with grease, and fit it to the end of the
crankshaft.
22Carefully lower the crankshaft into
position in the crankcase (see illustration).
23If necessary, seat the crankshaft using
light blows with a rubber hammer on the
crankshaft balance webs.
24Lubricate the main bearing journals and
shells (see illustration), and then fit numbers
2, 3 and 4 main bearing caps, and tighten the
new bolts as far as possible by hand.25Fill the side grooves of the rear main
bearing cap with RTV jointing compound
(Vauxhall part No 90485251, or equivalent).
Coat the lower surfaces of the bearing cap
with sealing compound (Vauxhall part No 15
04 200, or equivalent), (see illustrations). Fit
the bearing cap, and tighten the new bolts as
far as possible by hand.
26Fit the front (No 1) main bearing cap, and
tighten the new bolts as far as possible by
hand, ensuring that the bearing cap is exactly
flush with the end face of the cylinder block.
27Working from the centre bearing cap
outwards, tighten the bearing cap securing
bolts to the specified torque in the two stages
given in the Specifications; i.e. tighten all bolts
to Stage 1, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2
and Stage 3 (see illustrations).28When all bolts have been fully tightened,
inject further RTV jointing compound into the
side grooves of the rear main bearing cap,
until it is certain that they are full.
29Now rotate the crankshaft, and check that
it turns freely, with no signs of binding or tight
spots.
30Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits, using a dial gauge,
or by inserting a feeler blade between the
thrust flange of the centre main bearing shell
and the machined surface of the crankshaft
(see illustrations). Before measuring, ensure
that the crankshaft is fully forced towards one
end of the crankcase, to give the widest
possible gap at the measuring location.
Incorrect endfloat will most likely be due to
crankshaft wear or to incorrect regrinding,
assuming that the correct bearing shells have
been fitted.
2A•32SOHC engine procedures
34.19 Fitting a central main bearing shell.
Note thrust flanges -
2.0 litre SOHC engine34.24 Lubricate the main bearing shells
before fitting the caps -
2.0 litre SOHC engine
34.30B . . .or a feeler blade -
2.0 litre SOHC engine
34.27A Tighten the main bearing cap bolts
to the specified torque . . .
34.27B . . .then through the specified
angle - 2.0 litre SOHC engine34.30A Check crankshaft endfloat using a
dial gauge . . .
34.25B . . .and the lower surfaces with
sealing compound -
2.0 litre SOHC engine34.25A Fill the side grooves of the rear
main bearing cap with RTV jointing
compound . . .
34.22 Lowering the crankshaft into the
crankcase -
2.0 litre SOHC engine

31Refit the previously removed
components, referring to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter.
35Crankshaft and bearings -
examination
4
Examination
1Examine the crankpin and main journal
surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches, and
check the ovality and taper of the crankpins
and main journals. If the bearing surface
dimensions do not fall within the tolerance
ranges given in the Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter, the crankpins
and/or main journals will have to be reground.
2Big-end and crankpin wear is accompanied
by distinct metallic knocking, particularly
noticeable when the engine is pulling from low
revs, and some loss of oil pressure.
3Main bearing and main journal wear is
accompanied by severe engine vibration rumble
- getting progressively worse as engine rev’s
increase - and again by loss of oil pressure.
4If the crankshaft requires regrinding, take it
to an engine reconditioning specialist, who
will machine it for you and supply the correct
undersize bearing shells.
5Inspect the big-end and main bearing shells
for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and
scratches. The bearings should be matt grey
in colour. With leadindium bearings, should a
trace of copper colour be noticed, the
bearings are badly worn, as the lead bearing
material has worn away to expose the indium
underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in
this condition, or if there are any signs of
scoring or pitting. You are strongly advised
to renew the bearings - regardless of their
condition at time of major overhaul.
Refitting used bearings is a false economy.
6The undersizes available are designed to
correspond with crankshaft regrind sizes. Thebearings are in fact, slightly more than the
stated undersize, as running clearances have
been allowed for during their manufacture.
7Main and big-end bearing shells can be
identified as to size by the marking on the
back of the shell. Standard size shell bearings
are marked STD or .00, undersize shells are
marked with the undersize such as 0.020 u/s.
This marking method applies only to
replacement bearing shells, and not to those
used during production.
8An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by using a Plastigage. The crankshaft
is located in the main bearings (and, if
necessary, the big-end bearings), and the
Plastigage filament is located across the
journal. Vauxhall recommend that the
crankshaft journal and bearing shells are
lightly lubricated, to prevent the Plastigage
from tearing as the bearing cap is removed.
The bearing cap should be fitted, and the
bolts tightened to the specified torque. The
cap is then removed, and the width of the
filament is checked against a scale that shows
the bearing running clearance. The clearance
should be compared with that given in the
Specifications.
9Where applicable, check the teeth of the
crankshaft TDC sensor wheel for damage
(see illustration). If evident, the crankshaft
must be renewed.
10Similarly, check the condition of the pins
in the front crankshaft balance weight, which
serve as detect points for the plug-in
diagnostic sensor used by Vauxhall dealers
(see illustration).
36Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation
4
Examination
1Examine the cylinder bores for taper,
ovality, scoring and scratches. Start bycarefully examining the top of the cylinder
bores. If they are at all worn, a very slight
ridge will be found on the thrust side. This
marks the top of the piston ring travel. The
owner will have a good indication of the bore
wear before dismantling the engine, or
removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil
consumption, accompanied by blue smoke
from the exhaust, is a sure sign of worn
cylinder bores and piston rings.
2Measure the bore diameter across the
block, and just below any ridge. This can be
done with an internal micrometer or a dial
gauge. Compare this with the diameter of the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If no measuring instruments are
available, use a piston from which the rings
have been removed, and measure the gap
between it and the cylinder wall with a feeler
blade. Refer to the Specifications. If the
cylinder wear exceeds the permitted
tolerances, then the cylinders will need
reboring, in which case note the following
points:
a)Piston and cylinder bores are closely
matched in production. The actual
diameter of the piston is indicated by
numbers on its crown; the same numbers
stamped on the crankcase indicate the
bore diameter
b)After reboring has taken place, the
cylinder bores should be measured
accurately and oversize pistons selected
from the grades available to give the
specified piston-to-bore clearance
c)For grading purposes, the piston diameter
is measured across the bottom of the skirt
3If the wear is marginal and within the
tolerances given, new special piston rings can
be fitted to offset the wear.
4Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage, and
use a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensure that they are
unobstructed.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•33
35.10 Check the condition of the pins (arrowed) in the front
crankshaft balance weight - 2.0 litre SOHC engine35.9 Check the condition of the TDC sensor wheel teeth at the
front of the crankshaft - 2.0 litre SOHC engine
2A

5Note that the rubber plug located next to
the bellhousing flange on the cylinder block
covers the aperture for the installation of a
diagnostic TDC sensor. The sensor, when
connected to a monitoring unit, indicates TDC
from the position of the pins set into the
crankshaft balance weight.
37Examination and renovation
-general
4
General
1With the engine completely stripped, clean all
components and examine them for wear. Each
component should be checked, and where
necessary renewed or renovated, as described
in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
2Renew main and big-end bearing shells as
a matter of course, unless it is known that
they have had little wear, and are in perfect
condition.
3If in doubt whether to renew a component
that is still just serviceable, consider the time
and effort that will be incurred should the
component fail at an early date after rebuild.
Obviously, the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.4Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel,
cylinder head, and main and big-end bearing
cap bolts must be renewed, because of the
high stress to which they are subjected.
5Renew the engine core plugs while they are
easily accessible, if they show signs of
leakage. Knock out the old plugs with a
hammer and chisel or punch. Clean the plug
seats, smear the new plugs with sealing
compound, and tap them squarely into
position.
38Initial start-up after major
overhaul or repair
2
1Make a final check to ensure that
everything has been reconnected to the
engine, and that no rags or tools have been
left in the engine compartment.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual, as fuel is pumped to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure warning lamp
goes out when the engine starts. This may
take a few seconds as the new oil filter fills
with oil.5Run the engine at a fast tickover, and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. If a new
camshaft has been fitted, pay careful
attention to the running-in procedure given in
Section 18, paragraphs 17 and 18. Where
applicable, check the power steering and/or
automatic transmission fluid cooler unions for
leakage. Some smoke and odd smells may be
experienced, as assembly lubricants and
sealers burn off the various components.
6Bring the engine to normal operating
temperature. Check the ignition timing, idle
speed and the mixture (where applicable), as
described in Chapter 4A or 4B.
7Allow the engine to cool, then recheck the
oil and coolant levels. Top-up if necessary
8If new bearings, pistons, etc., have been
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
2A•34SOHC engine procedures

3
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, with remote expansion tank. Coolant pump driven by
timing belt
Coolant
Type/specification (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Lubricants and fluidsin “Weekly checks”
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Thermostat
Starts to open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92°C
Fully open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107°C
Operating temperature (approx.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°C
Expansion tank cap
Opening pressure (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.35 bar
Boiling point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125°C
Cooling fan switch
Switches on at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C
Switches off at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95°C
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pump bolts:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models
(except C16 NZ2), (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Oil pipes to radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16
Outlet to thermostat housing,
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8
Thermostat housing to cylinder head:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Coolant mixture - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cooling fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cooling fan switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Expansion tank and coolant level sensor - removal and refitting . . . .13
Facia ventilation nozzles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Heater control panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Radiator (automatic transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .7
Radiator (manual transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Radiator - inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Temperature gauge sender - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Thermostat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Thermostat - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1General description
Engine cooling is achieved by a
conventional pump-assisted system, in which
the coolant is pressurised. The system
consists of a radiator, a coolant pump driven
by the engine timing belt, an electric cooling
fan, a thermostat, an expansion tank, and
connecting hoses. Hoses also carry coolant to
and from the heater matrix, which provides
heat for the ventilation and heating system.
The system works in the following way.
Cold coolant from one side of the radiator,
which is mounted at the front of the engine
compartment, passes to the coolant pump,
which forces the coolant through the coolant
passages in the cylinder block and cylinder
head. The coolant absorbs heat from the
engine, and then returns to the radiator
through the heater matrix. As the coolant
flows across the radiator it is cooled, and the
cycle is repeated.
Air flows through the radiator, to cool the
coolant as a result of the vehicle’s forward
motion. However, if the coolant temperature
exceeds a given figure, a
temperature-sensitive switch in the radiator
switches on the electric fan, to increase the
airflow through the radiator. The fan only
operates when necessary, with a consequent
reduction in noise and energy consumption.
To reduce the time taken for the engine to
warm up when starting from cold, the
thermostat, located in the cylinder head
outlet, prevents coolant flowing to the radiator
until the temperature has risen sufficiently.
Instead, the outflow from the cylinder head
bypasses the radiator, and is redirected
around the engine. When the temperature
reaches a given figure, the thermostat opens,
to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. The
thermostat is operated by the expansion of a
temperature sensitive wax capsule.
An expansion tank is incorporated in the
system, to allow for coolant expansion. The
system is topped up through a filler cap on
the expansion tank.
Note that later models may be fitted with
self-tensioning spring clamps to secure the
cooling system (including heater) hoses.
These clamps can be released by squeezing
together their free ends using a large pair of
self-grip pliers or similar so that the clamp can
be moved up the hose, clear of the union.
Check that the clamp is securely seated, and
check for leaks on reassembly.
2Cooling system -draining
2
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the
engine is warm, cover the filler cap with a
thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly, to
gradually relieve the system pressure. Take
care to avoid scalding by steam or coolant
escaping from the pressurised system.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, with reference to Chapter 11.
3Position a container beneath the radiator
bottom hose connection, then slacken the
hose clip and ease the hose from the radiator
stub. If the hose joint has not been disturbed
for some time, it will be necessary to
manipulate the hose to break the joint. Allow
the coolant to drain into the container.
4As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, and
the radiator bottom hose may be situated
halfway up the radiator, the system cannot be
drained completely. Care should therefore be
taken when refilling the system to maintain
antifreeze strength.
5If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used.
6If the coolant has been drained for renewal,
and is badly contaminated, the coolant
system should be flushed as described in
Section 4. As the system cannot be drained
completely, it is advisable to flush the system
whenever the coolant is renewed, to minimise
the impurities remaining in the system.
3Cooling system -flushing
2
1If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if
the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time the cooling system will gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits
and other sediment. To restore coolant
system efficiency, it is necessary to flush the
system clean.
2The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.
3To flush the radiator, disconnect the top
hose at the radiator, then insert a garden hose
into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of
clean water through the radiator, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom outlet (the bottom hose
should have been disconnected to drain the
system). If after a reasonable period, the water
still does not run clear, the radiator can be
flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s
instructions are followed carefully. If the
contamination is particularly bad, insert the
hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and flush
the radiator in reverse.
4To flush the engine, continue as follows.
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except
C16 NZ2)
5Remove the thermostat as described in
Section 9, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
6With the radiator top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the radiator top hose.
7On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat, and reconnect the hoses.
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre
models
8Remove the thermostat and cover
assembly, as described in Section 9.
9With the radiator bottom hose
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the thermostat housing. It is
advisable to place a sheet of plastic under the
thermostat housing to deflect water away
from the engine and surrounding components
during the flushing process.
10On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and cover assembly, reconnect
the hoses and remove the sheet of plastic.
4Cooling system -filling
2
1Before attempting to fill the cooling system,
make sure that all hoses and clips are in good
condition, and that the clips are tight. Note
that an antifreeze mixture must be used all
year round, to prevent corrosion of the alloy
engine components -refer to Section 5.
2On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), disconnect the wire and unscrew the
coolant temperature sender from the inlet
manifold.
3Remove the expansion tank cap, and fill the
system by slowly pouring the coolant into the
expansion tank to prevent air locks from
forming.
4If the coolant is being renewed, begin by
pouring in a couple of pints of water, followed
by the correct quantity of antifreeze (see
Section 5), then top-up with more water.
5On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), refit the coolant temperature sender
when coolant free of air bubbles emerges
from the orifice in the inlet manifold.
6Top-up the coolant level to the “COLD” (or
“KALT”) mark on the expansion tank, then refit
the expansion tank cap.
7Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then stop the
engine and allow it to cool.
8Check for leaks, particularly around
disturbed components. Check the coolant
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
When renewing any hoses,
use a little soapy water as a
lubricant, or soften the hose
in hot water. Do not use oil or
grease, as this may attack the rubber.

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, remove the
timing belt. Details are as described in
Chapter 2A.
3Remove timing belt tension roller from oil
pump, where applicable.
4Unscrew and remove the coolant pump
securing bolts (see illustration).
5Withdraw the coolant pump from the
cylinder block, and recover the O-ring (see
illustrations). It may be necessary to tap the
pump lightly with a plastic-faced hammer to
free it from the cylinder block.
6If desired, the rear timing belt cover can be
removed from the pump by rotating the cover
to release it from the flange on the pump.
7No overhaul of the coolant pump is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
9Use a new O-ring when refitting the pump.
Before refitting the pump, smear the pump
mounting face in the cylinder block and the O-
ring with a silicone grease or petroleum jelly.
10Do not fully tighten the pump securing
bolts until the timing belt has been fitted and
tensioned.
11Refit and tension the timing belt, as
described in Chapter 2A.
12If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the
cooling system, as described in Section 4.
DOHC models
Removal
13Remove the engine undershield.
14If the engine is in the vehicle, drain the
cooling system, as described in Section 2.
15Remove the timing belt, camshaft
sprockets, crankshaft sprocket, timing belt
tensioner and idler rollers, and the timing belt
rear cover, as described in Chapter 2B.
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 4
and 5.
17No overhaul of the coolant pump is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.19Always use a new O-ring. Before fitting
the pump, smear the pump mating face in the
cylinder block and the O-ring with a silicone
grease or petroleum jelly.
20Refit the pump, and ensure that the lugs
on the pump and the cylinder block are
aligned before tightening the pump securing
bolts (see illustration).
21Refit the remaining components, and
tension the timing belt, as described in
Chapter 2B.
22If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the
cooling system, as described in Section 4.
Replace the undershield.
12Cooling fan - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan,
noting the location of the wiring connector for
use when refitting.
3Unscrew the two upper fan shroud securing
bolts from the top corners of the shroud, then
tilt the assembly back slightly towards the
engine, and withdraw it upwards away from
the radiator (see illustration).
4To separate the fan motor from the shroud,
unscrew the three securing nuts. If desired,
the fan blades can be separated from the
motor by removing the securing spring clip
from the end of the motor shaft.5No spare parts are available for the motor,
and if the unit is faulty, it must be renewed.
Refitting
6Reassembly (where applicable), and
refitting are reversals of the dismantling and
removal procedures, but ensure that the lower
end of the fan shroud locates correctly on the
radiator.
7On completion, start the engine and run it
until it reaches normal operating temperature,
then continue to run the engine and check
that the cooling fan cuts in and functions
correctly.
13Expansion tank and coolant
level sensor -removal and
refitting
3
Expansion tank
Removal
1The expansion tank is secured by a single
screw at its front edge. If the tank is to be
moved for access purposes, it should be
possible to move it sufficiently within the
confines of the hoses once the securing
screw has been removed. If the tank is to be
removed completely, continue as follows.
2Disconnect the two hoses from the top of
the expansion tank, and suspend them above
the height of the engine to prevent coolant loss.
3Remove the tank securing screw, then
manipulate the tank from its location, holding
it as high as possible above the engine.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
11.5B . . .and recover the O-ring -
2.0 litre SOHC model
12.3 Withdrawing the fan shroud assembly
- 2.0 litre SOHC model11.20 Lugs (arrowed) on coolant pump
and cylinder block must be aligned -
DOHC models
11.5A Withdraw the coolant pump . . .11.4 Coolant pump securing bolt
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model
3