1988 OPEL CALIBRA check oil

28Air inlet temperature control
check (carburettor models
only)
2
Refer to Chapter 4A for details.
29Fuel filter renewal
3
Fuel filters are fitted in various locations
throughout the range. Some may be ‘in-line’ in
the fuel tank itself, or fitted into the
carburettor.
Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as appropriate.
30Spark plug renewal (SOHC)
2
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. Refer to the
specifications in Chapter 5. If this type is used
and the engine is in good condition, the spark
plugs should not need attention between
scheduled service replacement intervals.
Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2Identify each HT lead for position so that the
leads can be refitted to their correct cylinders.
Then disconnect the leads from the plugs by
pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
3Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small paintbrush, then using a plugspanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs (see
illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with
a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
foreign matter.
4The condition of the spark plugs will tell
much about the overall condition of the
engine.
5If the insulator nose of the spark plug is
clean and white, with no deposits, this is a
sign of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug (a hot
plug transfers heat away from the electrode
slowly -a cold plug transfers heat away
quickly).
6If the tip and insulator nose is covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
7If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
8The spark plug gap is of considerable
importance, because if it is either too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark
plug gap should be set to the figure given in
the Specifications, in Chapter 5.
9To set it, measure the gap with a feeler
blade and then bend open, or close, the outer
plug electrode until the correct gap is
achieved. The centre electrode should never
be bent, as this may crack the insulation and
cause plug failure, if nothing worse (see
illustrations).10Before fitting new spark plugs check that
their threaded connector sleeves are tight.
11Screw in the plugs by hand, then tighten
them to the specified torque. Do not exceed
the torque figure.
12Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, ensuring that they are connected to
their correct cylinders.
31Distributor cap and HT lead
check
3
1Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and wipe them clean.
2Also wipe clean the coil connections.
Remove the rotor arm, then visually check the
distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads for
hairline cracks, and signs of arcing.
1•14Every 18 000 miles or 24 months
30.9A Tools required for spark plug
removal, gap adjustment and refitting30.9C Measuring the spark plug gap with
feeler blade30.9B Measuring the spark plug gap with
wire gauge
30.3 Removing a spark plugWarning: Before carrying out
the following operation, refer to
the precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross-
threading them. To avoid this, fit a
short length of 8 mm (internal
diameter), rubber hose over the end of
the spark plug. The flexible hose acts
as a universal joint to help align the
plug correctly. Should the plug begin to
cross-thread, the hose will slip on the
spark plug, preventing damage to the
thread in the cylinder head.
Number the HT leads before
removal to ensure correct
refitting.

3When refitting the distributor cap, check
that the ends of the HT leads are fitted
securely to the cap, plugs and coil. Also make
sure that the spring-tensioned carbon brush
in the centre of the distributor cap moves
freely, and that the HT segments are not worn
excessively.
4Inspect the electrical and vacuum
connections of the ignition/engine
management systems, and make sure that
they are clean and secure.
32Clutch cable check
2
Check the clutch cable adjustment, as
described in Chapter 6.
Check also, the condition of the cable.
Inspect the cable strands for fraying, and
ensure that the cable is correctly routed, to
avoid chafing against surrounding
components. Renew the cable, as described
in Chapter 6, if excessive wear or damage is
evident.
33Manual transmission fluid
check
2
Note:Models built after 1994 it is no longer
necessary to check levels.
1Ensure that the vehicle is on level ground.
2Unscrew the transmission oil level plug,
which is located in the rear left of the
differential housing on F10 and F13
transmissions, and in the rear right of the
differential housing on F16 and F20
transmissions (see illustrations). The oil level
should be up to the bottom of the level plug
orifice.
3If necessary, top-up the oil level through the
breather/filler orifice in the gear selector
cover. Unscrew the breather/filler plug, and
top-up with the specified grade of oil, until oil
just begins to run from the level plug orifice.
Refit the level plug and the breather/filler plug
on completion (see illustrations).
4Renewal of the transmission oil is not
specified by the manufacturers, and no drain
plug is provided. If it is desired to renew the oil
as a precaution, the oil may be drained by
removing the differential cover plate. Use a
new gasket when refitting the cover plate. Fillthe transmission through the breather/filler
orifice, as described previously in this
Section.
5Periodically inspect the transmission for oil
leaks, and check the gear selector linkage
components for wear and smooth operation.
34Automatic transmission
check
2
1Carry out a thorough road test, ensuring
that all gearchanges occur smoothly, without
snatching and with no increase in engine
speed between changes.
2Check the operation of the kickdown.
Check that all gear positions can be engaged
at the appropriate movement of the selector
lever and with the vehicle at rest, check that
the operation of the parking pawl in position
“P” prevents it from being moved. Ensure that
the starter motor will work only with the
selector lever in positions “P” or “N”, and thatthe reversing lamps light only when position
“R” is selected.
3The manufacturer’s schedule calls for a
regular check of the electrical control system
using the special Vauxhall test equipment;
owners will have to have this check carried
out by a Vauxhall dealer.
4Periodically inspect the transmission
casing, checking all joint surfaces and seals
for signs of fluid leaks. If any are found, the
fault must be rectified immediately.
5Check also that the transmission breather
hose (under the battery mounting bracket) is
clear and not blocked, kinked or twisted.
35Brake shoe check
2
Note:On models fitted with rear brake pads,
the handbrake operates brake shoes that are
located inside the rear brake discs.
Refer to Chapter 9, for details.
Every 18 000 miles or 24 months 1•15
33.3A Transmission breather/filler plug
(arrowed) - F16 type transmission33.3B Topping-up the transmission oil
level - F13 type transmission
33.2B Transmission oil level plug
(arrowed) - F16 type transmission (viewed
from below, with driveshaft removed)33.2A Transmission oil level plug
(arrowed) - F13 type transmission (viewed
from above)
1

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
Starter to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Starter support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Temperature regulator plug (M20) * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft: *
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250184
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by between 40°and 50°
Timing belt guide roller bracket to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to cylinder block:
Engines up to 1993
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 45°
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 15°
1993-on engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Transfer box bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Transmission to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
1General
This part of Chapter 2 describes
procedures that are specific to the DOHC
engine. It should be read in conjunction with
Part A.
The lower engine is basically the same as
the 2.0 litre SOHC. However the pistons are
attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon
pins, which are fully floating, and are secured
by circlips.
Both camshafts on these engines are driven
from the crankshaft by one toothed
composite rubber belt. Each cylinder has four
valves (two inlet and two exhaust), operated
directly from the camshafts by hydraulic
self-adjusting valve lifters. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.
DOHC models are fitted with a remotely
mounted oil cooler.
The distributor is driven directly from the
exhaust camshaft.
2Engine - removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Carry out procedure in Chapter 2A, noting
the following differences.
2With the car safely raised, remove the
engine undershield.
3The fuel hoses need to be disconnected
from the fuel rail.
4Disconnect coolant hoses from the cylinder
block and cylinder head. Also disconnect the
oil cooler pipe unions from the oil pump.
5Unbolt the right-hand driveshaft centre
bearing support bracket from the rear of the
cylinder block.
Refitting
6Refitting the engine is similar to theprocedure in Chapter 2A. The exceptions
being, replacement of the right-hand
driveshaft centre bearing support bracket at
the rear of the cylinder block and retightening
the securing bolts.
7Replace the undershield.
3Engine/transmission
mountings- renewal
3
The procedure for replacing the engine/
transmission is similar to SOHC models, see
Chapter 2A. However this engine is fitted with
an undershield that needs to be removed
before replacing the mounts. Do not forget to
replace the undershield before lowering the
car.
4Timing belt, sprockets and belt
tensioner and idler pulleys-
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Note: The timing belt should be renewed on
refitting. A two-legged puller may be required
to remove the crankshaft sprocket
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.2Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the
airflow meter, then remove the cover and the
air cleaner element from the air cleaner. If
desired, for improved access, the complete
air cleaner assembly can be removed, as
described in Chapter 4B.
3Remove the power steering pump drivebelt,
as described in Chapter 10.
4Remove the alternator drivebelt, as
described in Chapter 5.
5Remove the three securing screws, and
withdraw the outer timing belt cover. Recover
the rubber grommets from the screw holes in
the cover if they are loose.
6Turn the crankshaft using a Torx socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the timing
marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned
with the notches in the camshaft cover. The
notch in the crankshaft pulley should also be
aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt
cover (see illustrations).
7Extract the six securing bolts using a
splined bit, and withdraw the crankshaft
pulley (see illustration). If necessary,
counterhold the crankshaft using a socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt. If the engine is in
the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented
from turning by having an assistant engage
first gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel ring gear teeth can
be jammed using a large screwdriver or
similar tool. Before removing the pulley, check
that the timing marks are still aligned.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•3
4.6B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover (circled)4.6A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark
aligned with notch in camshaft cover
2B

48Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the
TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are
aligned with the notches in the camshaft
cover, and check that the crankshaft pulley
TDC mark is aligned with the pointer on the
rear timing belt cover.
49Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to
34 inclusive.
5Timing belt, with automatic
adjuster- removal, refitting
and adjustment
3
Removal
1The operations are essentially the same as
described in Section 4, except that the
tensioner pulley incorporates an automatic
adjuster that simplifies the procedure as
follows.
2To release the belt tension before removal,
unscrew the timing belt tensioner pulley
securing bolt slightly then, with a large
screwdriver (or similar tool) inserted in the slot
on the tensioner arm, turn the tensioner arm
until the timing belt is slack. Tighten the
securing bolt slightly to hold the tensioner in
this position.
Refitting
3To refit the timing belt, first ensure that the
coolant pump is correctly positioned by
checking that the lug on the coolant pump
flange is aligned with the corresponding lug
on the cylinder block. If this is not the case,
slacken the coolant pump mounting bolts
slightly and move the pump accordingly.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque on
completion (see Chapter 3).
4Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4,
then tension it as follows.
Adjustment
5Slacken the tensioner pulley securing bolt
and move the tensioner arm anti-clockwise,
until the tensioner pointer lies at its stop.
Tighten the tensioner pulley securing bolt to
hold the tensioner in this position.
6Turn the crankshaft through two complete
revolutions in the normal direction of rotation
and check that with the crankshaft pulley TDC
mark aligned with the pointer on the rear
timing belt cover, the TDC marks on the
camshaft sprockets are still aligned with the
notches in the camshaft cover.
7Slacken the tensioner pulley securing bolt
once again and move the tensioner arm
clockwise, until the tensioner pointer is
aligned with the notch in the tensioner. In the
first few hours of operation a new belt will be
subjected to ‘settling-in’, (known as the
running-in procedure). If you are refitting a
used belt (one that has been ‘run-in’), align the
pointer to approximately 4 mm to the left of
the notch, refer to Section 14 in Chapter 2A.
Tighten the tensioner pulley securing bolt
securely. Turn the crankshaft through onecomplete revolution in the normal direction of
rotation and check that the crankshaft and
camshaft timing marks still align, then refit the
remainder of the components as described in
Section 4.
8With the timing belt adjustment set in this
way, correct tension will always be maintained
by the automatic tensioner and no further
checking or adjustment will be necessary.
6Camshaft front oil seal-
removal and refitting
3
Note: A new timing belt should be used on
refitting
Removal
1The camshaft front oil seals may be
renewed with the engine in the vehicle without
removing the camshafts as follows.
2Remove the timing belt and the relevant
camshaft sprocket(s), as described in Section 4.
3Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a
self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with
pliers to extract the seal.
4Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
5Turn the camshaft until the locating peg for
the camshaft sprocket is uppermost, then
lubricate the lips of a new camshaft front oil
seal with a little grease, and fit the oil seal,
using a tube or socket of similar diameter with
a washer and the camshaft sprocket bolt.Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt into the end
of the camshaft to draw the oil seal into
position on its shoulder (see illustration).
6Where applicable, repeat the procedure on
the remaining camshaft oil seal.
Refitting
7Refit the camshaft sprockets, the timing
belt and tension the timing belt as described
in Sections 4 and 5.
7Camshafts- removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Note: A new timing belt should be used on
refitting
Removal
1Remove the timing belt and the relevant
camshaft sprockets, as described in Section 4.
2If the exhaust camshaft is to be removed,
unscrew the two securing bolts and remove
the distributor from the end of the cylinder
head, referring to Chapter 5, if necessary.
3Check the camshaft bearing caps for identi-
fication marks, and if none are present, make
corresponding marks on the bearing caps and
the top surface of the cylinder head using a
centre punch. Note the orientation of the
bearing caps before removal, as they must be
refitted in exactly the same positions from
which they are removed (see illustration).
4Loosen the relevant camshaft bearing cap
nuts by half a turn, then loosen all the nuts by
a further half turn and so on (this is necessary
to slowly relieve the tension in the valve
springs). Note that the exhaust camshaft rear
bearing cap that also supports the distributor
is secured by four nuts (see illustration).
5Remove the bearing cap nuts and the
bearing caps, then carefully lift the relevant
camshaft from the cylinder head without
jerking.
6Repeat the procedure for the remaining
camshaft if desired.
Inspection
7With the camshaft(s) removed, examine the
bearing surfaces in the cylinder head and
bearing caps for signs of obvious wear or
2B•6DOHC engine procedures
6.5 Using the camshaft sprocket bolt,
washer, and a tube to fit a new camshaft
front oil seal
7.4 Exhaust camshaft rear bearing cap
securing nuts (arrowed)7.3 Camshaft bearing cap. Note position
of identification mark (arrowed)

pitting. If evident, the cylinder head and all
bearing caps must be renewed as a matched
set, as there is no provision for refacing if the
bearing caps cannot be renewed individually.
8The camshaft(s) should show no marks or
scoring on the journal or cam lobe surfaces. if
evident, renew the camshaft(s).
9It is advisable to renew the camshaft front
oil seal(s) as a matter of course. Prise the old
seal(s) from the front of the camshaft(s) and
discard them.
Refitting
10Begin refitting by liberally coating the
contact faces of the hydraulic valve lifters and
the camshaft(s) with molybdenum disulphide
paste.
11Coat the mating faces of the front and
rear bearing caps with sealing compound and
refit the bearing caps in their original positions
as noted during removal.
12Tighten the camshaft bearing cap nuts to
the specified torque in half-turn stages, as
when loosening the nuts. Note that when
refitting the exhaust camshaft, the two smaller
rear bearing cap securing nuts should be
tightened after all the main camshaft bearing
cap nuts have been tightened. Note also that
the two smaller nuts should be tightened to a
lower torque wrench setting than the main
nuts.
13Turn the camshaft until the locating peg
for the camshaft sprocket is uppermost, then
lubricate the lips of a rear camshaft front oil
seal with a little grease, and fit the oil seal,
using a tube or socket of similar diameter with
a washer and the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt into the end
of the camshaft to draw the oil seal into
position on its shoulder.
14Repeat the procedure for the remaining
camshaft.
15Refit the distributor with reference to
Chapter 5. Fit a new timing belt and the
camshaft sprockets, then adjust the timing
belt as described in Section 4 or 5, as
applicable.
8Cylinder head -removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
4
Note: The engine must be cold when the
cylinder head is removed. Do not remove the
cylinder head from a hot engine. New cylinder
head bolts, a new cylinder head gasket and a
new timing belt must be used on refitting.
The torque settings (as shown in Chapter 2A)
are only applicable to latest specification head
bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or
alternative make, head bolts may require
different torques. Consult your supplier
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system, as described in
Chapter 3.3Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
4The cylinder head can be removed
complete with the inlet manifold, or the inlet
manifold can be detached from the cylinder
head before removal, with reference to
Chapter 4B. If no work is to be carried out on
the inlet manifold, it can be unbolted from the
cylinder head and supported to one side out
of the way, thus avoiding the need to
disconnect the relevant hoses, pipes and
wiring.
5If the cylinder head is to be removed
complete with the inlet manifold, disconnect
all relevant hoses, pipes and wiring from the
inlet manifold and associated components,
referring to Chapter 4B, and unbolt the
manifold support bracket from the manifold.
Loosen the alternator mountings with
reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper
alternator mounting from the inlet manifold.
6If the inlet manifold is to be left in the engine
compartment, continue as follows, otherwise
go on to paragraph 17.
7Disconnect the wiring plug from the airflow
meter, and the breather hose from the air box
on the throttle body. Disconnect the air
cleaner trunking and remove the airflow
meter/air box assembly from the throttle
body. Refer to Chapter 4B if necessary.
8Disconnect the end of the throttle cable
from the throttle valve lever, then unbolt the
throttle cable support bracket and remove it
from the inlet manifold.
9Unscrew the two earth lead securing nuts
from the fuel rail (one at each end of the rail)
and disconnect the three earth leads.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the
throttle position switch.
11Pull up on the wiring harness housing, and
disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
injectors by compressing the retaining clips.
Move the wiring harness housing to one side.
12Disconnect the two breather hoses from
the rear of the camshaft cover.
13Loosen the alternator mountings, with
reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper
alternator mounting from the inlet manifold.
14Unbolt the manifold support bracket from
the manifold.15Make a final check to ensure that all
necessary hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, then unscrew the securing nuts
and lift the inlet manifold from the cylinder
head. Ensure that the manifold is properly
supported, taking care not to strain any of the
hoses, pipes and wires, etc., which are still
connected.
16Recover the manifold gasket from the
cylinder head.
17Remove the timing belt, camshaft
sprockets, and timing belt tensioner and idler
pulleys, as described in Section 4.
18Unscrew the upper and middle studs for
the timing belt outer cover screws. Note that
the upper stud simply unscrews from the
cylinder head, but the middle stud is secured
by a bolt.
19Unscrew the two upper rear timing belt
cover securing bolts from the cylinder head.
20Remove the distributor cap and HT leads
with reference to Chapter 5.
21Disconnect the distributor wiring plug.
22Disconnect the coolant hose from the
left-hand end of the cylinder head.
23Unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase
breather tube bracket to the end of the
cylinder head.
24Disconnect the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing, and disconnect the
wiring plugs from the temperature gauge
sender and the coolant temperature sensor
(both situated in the thermostat housing).
25Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
26On X20 XEV models, remove the
camshaft, as described in Section 7.
27Using a Torx socket, and working in the
order shown (see illustrations), loosen all the
cylinder head bolts by a quarter of a turn, then
loosen all the bolts by half a turn, and finally
loosen and remove the bolts. Recover the
washers. Note that the loosening sequence
on X20 XEV differs to other DOHC engines.
28Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder
block. If necessary, tap the cylinder head
gently with a soft-faced mallet to free it from
the block, but do not lever at the mating
faces. Note that the cylinder head is located
on dowels.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•7
8.27B Cylinder head bolt loosening
sequence - (X 20 XEV engines)8.27A Cylinder head bolt loosening
sequence - (20 XEJ and C 20 XE engines)
2B

29Recover the cylinder head gasket and
discard it.
30Clean the cylinder head and block mating
faces by careful scraping. Take care not to
damage the cylinder head, which is made of
light alloy and is easily scored. Cover the
coolant passages and other openings with
masking tape or rag, to prevent dirt and
carbon falling in. Mop out all the oil from the
bolt holes; if oil is left in the holes, hydraulic
pressure could crack the block when the bolts
are refitted.
31If desired, the cylinder head can be
dismantled and inspected as described in
Section 10.
Refitting
32Begin refitting by locating a new gasket
on the block so that the word “OBEN” or
“TOP” is uppermost at the timing belt end of
the engine.
33With the mating faces scrupulously clean,
locate the cylinder head on the block so that
the positioning dowels engage in their holes.
34Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley and
the camshaft sprockets, and ensure that the
timing marks are still positioned as they were
before the timing belt was removed (see
Section 4).35Fit the new cylinder head bolts, ensuring
that the washers are in place under their
heads, and screw the bolts in by hand as far
as possible.
36Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see
illustrations). Note that the tightening
sequence on X20 XEV differs to other DOHC
engines. Tighten the bolts in the four stages
given in the Specification (see Chapter 2A, as
2.0 litre) - i.e. tighten all bolts to the Stage 1
torque, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2 and so
on (see illustrations).
37Further refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure, remembering the
following points.
38Refit the timing belt tensioner and idler
pulleys, camshaft sprockets and a new timing
belt as described in Section 4, and tension the
timing belt as described in Sections 4 and 5.
39Where applicable, refit the inlet manifold
to the cylinder head with reference to Chapter
4B, using a new gasket.
40Refit the front section of the exhaust
system as described in Chapter 4C, using a
new gasket.
41Refit the upper alternator mounting to the
inlet manifold (where applicable), then adjust
the alternator drivebelt tension, as described
in Chapter 5.
42Refill the cooling system, (Chapter 3).43On completion, check that all relevant
hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been
reconnected.
44When the engine is started, check for
signs of leaks.
45Once the engine has reached normal
operating temperature, check and if
necessary adjust the mixture (where
applicable) with reference to Chapter 4B.
9Cylinder head -removal and
refitting (engine removed)
4
Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder
head gasket, and a new timing belt must be
used on refitting.
The torque settings (as shown in Chapter 2A)
are only applicable to latest specification head
bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or
alternative make, head bolts may require
different torques. Consult your supplier.
Removal
1The cylinder head can be removed
complete with the inlet manifold, or the inlet
manifold can be detached from the cylinder
head before removal, with reference to
Chapter 4B.
2Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 17 to 19 inclusive.
3If not already done, remove the distributor
cap and HT leads, referring to Chapter 5.
2B•8DOHC engine procedures
8.36A Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence -
20 XEJ and C 20 XE engines
8.36C Tighten the cylinder head bolts to
the specified torque . . .8.36D . . .and then through the specified
angle
8.36B Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence -
X 20 XEV engines
Warning: The exhaust valves
fitted to 20 XEJ and C 20 XE
models are fitted with sodium to
improve their heat transfer.
Sodium is a highly reactive metal, which
will ignite or explode spontaneously on
contact with water (including water vapour
in the air). These must NOT be disposed of
with ordinary scrap. Seek advice from a
Vauxhall dealer or your Local Authority, if
the valves are to be disposed.

4Unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase
breather tube bracket to the end of the
cylinder head.
5Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
6Continue as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 26 to 31.
Refitting
7Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 32 to 38 inclusive but in addition
note the following.
8On completion, check that all relevant
hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been
reconnected.
10Cylinder head- dismantling
and reassembly
4
Dismantling
1With the cylinder head removed as
described in Section 8, clean away all external
dirt.
2If not already done, remove the thermostat
housing and thermostat as described in
Chapter 3, and remove the manifolds as
described in Chapters 4B and 4C.
3Remove the spark plugs (if not already
done), and remove the distributor with
reference to Chapter 5.
4Remove the camshafts as described in
Section 7.
5Remove the hydraulic valve lifters from their
bores using a rubber suction plunger tool - do
not invert the cylinder head to remove the
valve lifters. Keep the valve lifters upright at all
times (oil groove at bottom (see illustration)),
and immerse them in order of removal in a
container of clean engine oil until they are to
be refitted.
6To remove the valve components, continue
as described in Chapter 2A, Section 22,paragraphs 3 to 7 inclusive.
7The cylinder head and valves can be
inspected for wear and damage as described
in Chapter 2A, Section 23.
Reassembly
8With all components cleaned, refit the valve
components as described in Chapter 2A,
Section 22, paragraphs 10 to 19 inclusive.
9Refit the hydraulic valve lifters to the
cylinder head in their original positions.
Liberally oil the valve lifter bores, and if new
lifters are being fitted, initially immerse each
one in a container of clean engine oil and
compress it (by hand) several times to charge
it.
10Refit the camshafts, as described in
Section 7.
11Refit the spark plugs if desired, and refit
the distributor with reference to Chapter 5.
12Where applicable, refit the manifolds
and/or the thermostat and housing.
13Refit the cylinder head, as described in
Sections 8 and 9, as applicable.
11Valve lifters- general
Although the valve lifters on these engines
cannot be dismantled they should be carefully
inspected for obvious signs of wear on the
contact faces. Also check the valve lifter oil
holes for obstructions and for any signs of oil
sludge build-up. If excessive wear is evident
(this is unlikely), all the valve lifters must be
renewed as a set.
12Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
3
1The procedure is similar to SOHC models(see Chapter 2A), noting the following points.
2The spacer ring (if fitted), from the end of
the crankshaft, must be removed, before
refitting.
3After fitting the new seal, coat the oil pump
mating face of the spacer ring with sealing
compound, then push the spacer ring onto
the end of the crankshaft, until it is seated
against the oil pump.
4The timing belt should be renewed.
5Refit the rear timing belt cover and the
timing belt, as described in Section 4. Adjust it
as described in Section 4 and 5.
13Sump - removal and refitting
3
Note: Sump gaskets, cannot be reused.
Ensure that new gaskets are obtained before
removing the sump
Removal
1The procedure is similar to SOHC models
(see Chapter 2A), with the following variations.
2The engine undershield must be removed.
3Remove both the cork gaskets and clean all
sealing surfaces, scrupulously.
Refitting
4Locate a new gasket on the cylinder block,
if necessary applying a little sealing
compound to hold it in place.
5Locate the remaining new gasket on the
sump baffle, but do not use sealing
compound.
14Oil pump - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Apart from the following variations, the
procedure is the same as for SOHC models.
2If the engine is still in the vehicle,
disconnect the oil cooler pipe unions from the
oil pump, and move the pipes to one side out
DOHC engine procedures 2B•9
14.2 Oil cooler pipe unions at oil pump
10.5 Remove the hydraulic valve lifters using a rubber plunger. Inset (A) shows valve
lifter upright, with oil groove (arrowed) at bottom
2B

of the way (see illustration).
3Remove the spacer ring from the end of the
crankshaft (see illustration).
Refitting
4Coat the oil pump mating face of the spacer
ring with sealing compound, then push the
spacer ring onto the end of the crankshaft
until it is seated against the oil pump.
5The timing belt should be renewed, see
Sections 4 and 5, for details.
6Remember also to reconnect the oil cooler
pipes to the oil pump, and tighten the unions.
15Oil cooler - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1To gain sufficient access to remove the oil
cooler, the radiator must be removed (as
described in Chapter 3). Alternatively, the
front bumper can be removed, as described in
Chapter 11 (see illustration).
2With the appropriate component(s)removed for access, unscrew the oil cooler
pipe unions from the oil cooler. Be prepared
for oil spillage, and plug the open ends of the
pipes, to prevent further oil leakage and dirt
ingress.
3Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
withdraw the oil cooler from its mounting
brackets.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, check and if necessary top-up
the engine oil level, as described in Chapter 1.
2B•10DOHC engine procedures
15.1 Oil cooler viewed through front spoiler. Securing nuts
arrowed14.3 Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed) and crankshaft spacer
ring (A)