1988 OPEL CALIBRA power steering

56Airbag unit, drivers side -
removal and refitting
4
Note:On power steering models in particular,
it will be advantageous to jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands placed
under the body side members, so that the
steering wheel can be turned more easily.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead and
cover the battery terminal. Wait a minimum of 1
minute.
2With the steering wheel positioned in the
straight-ahead position, turn it 90°clockwise
so that the left-hand spoke is accessible from
the rear.
3Using a Torx type socket, undo the first
airbag retaining bolt from the rear of the
steering wheel (see illustration).
4Turn the steering wheel 180°anti-clockwise
so that the right-hand spoke is accessible
from the rear.
5Undo the second retaining bolt from the
rear of the steering wheel.
6Return the steering wheel to the
straight-ahead position then carefully lift up
the airbag unit.
7Disconnect the wiring plug and remove the
airbag from the car.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal.
57Steering wheel (with airbag)
-removal and refitting
4
Note: Read warning at the beginning of
Section 55, before starting work. A
two-legged puller will be required for this
operation. Note also that the steering wheel is
a very tight fit on the shaft.
Removal
1Remove the airbag unit as described
previously.
2Ensure that the steering wheel is in the
straight ahead position.
3From the centre of the steering wheel
unscrew the two screws securing the airbag
contact unit.4Using a screwdriver, prise back the tabs on
the lockwasher securing the steering wheel
retaining nut.
5Unscrew and remove the steering wheel
retaining nut and the lockwasher.
6Make alignment marks between the
steering wheel and the end of the column
shaft.
7A suitably small two-legged puller must
now be fitted to the steering wheel in order to
pull it from the column shaft.
8Once the steering wheel has been released
from the column shaft, disconnect the horn
wiring and remove the steering wheel.
Refitting
9Begin refitting by positioning the steering
wheel on the column shaft, ensuring that the
marks made on removal are aligned, and that
the wheel correctly engages with the airbag
contact unit. It may be necessary to tap the
steering wheel fully home on the column shaft
using a metal tube and socket.
10Reconnect the horn wiring.
11Refit the lockwasher and the steering
wheel retaining nut, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Bend up the lockwasher to
secure.
12Refit the two screws securing the airbag
contact unit.
13Refit the airbag as described previously.
58Airbag contact unit -removal
and refitting
4
Note: Read warning at the beginning of
Section 55, before starting work.
Removal
1Remove the airbag and the steering wheel
as described previously.
2Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, referring to Chapter 10, if
necessary.
3Disconnect the contact unit wiring plug
below the steering column and withdraw the
contact unit from the column, noting its fitted
position as a guide to reassembly (see
illustration).
Refitting
4Before refitting the contact unit, ensure that
the front wheels are in the straight-ahead
position.
5Place the contact unit on the column in the
correct position as noted during removal.
6Route the wiring harness under the steering
column lock/ignition switch and connect the
wiring plug.
7Refit the steering column shrouds.
8Refit the steering wheel and airbag as
described previously.
59Airbag unit, passengers side
- removal and refitting
4
Note: Read warning at the beginning of
Section 55, before starting work.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery, cover the terminals
and wait at least 1 minute.
2Remove the glovebox assembly. Refer to
Chapter 11, for further details if necessary.
3Remove the right hand ventilation air duct.
12•20Body electrical systems
58.3 Airbag contact unit retaining screws
56.3 Airbag, steering wheel and contact unit details
Warning: Read warning at the
beginning of Section 55, before
starting work.
Warning: Stand the unit with the
cover uppermost and do not
expose it to heat sources in
excess of 100ºC. Do not attempt
to open or repair the airbag unit, or apply
any voltage to it. Do not use any airbag
unit that is visibly damaged or has been
tampered with.

8Alternator drivebelt -
removal, refitting and adjusting
2
V-belt type (not-ribbed)
Removal
1Disconnect the air inlet trunking from the air
cleaner, and the air box or throttle body, as
applicable, and remove it for improved
access.
2Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will
ensure that it has a long life. Beware,
however, of overtightening, as this can cause
excessive wear in the alternator.
3The belt should be inspected regularly, and
if it is found to be worn, frayed or cracked, it
should be renewed as a precaution against
breakage in service. It is advisable to carry a
spare drivebelt of the correct type in the
vehicle always.
4On models with power steering, the
alternator drivebelt also drives the power
steering pump.
5To remove the belt, on 1.8 and 2.0 litre
models first remove the power steering pump
drivebelt, as described in Chapter 10.
6Loosen the two alternator mounting nuts
and bolts sufficiently to allow the alternator to
be pivoted in towards the engine.
7Slide the belt from the pulleys.
Refitting
8Ensure that the correct type of belt is used,
if it is being renewed. Fit the belt around the
pulleys. Take up the slack in the belt byswinging the alternator away from the engine
and lightly tightening the mounting nuts and
bolts.
Adjusting
9Although special tools are available for
measuring the belt tension, a good
approximation can be achieved if the belt is
tensioned so that there is approximately 13.0
mm (0.5 in) of free movement under firm
thumb pressure at the mid-point of the
longest run between pulleys.
10With the mounting bolts just holding the
unit, lever the alternator away from the engine
using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket
end until the correct tension is achieved. Then
tighten the mounting nuts and bolts. On no
account lever at the free end of the alternator,
as serious internal damage could be caused.11Where applicable, refit and tension the
power steering pump drivebelt, as described
in Chapter 10.
12Refit the air inlet trunking.
13When a new belt has been fitted, it will
probably stretch slightly when it is first run,
and the tension should be rechecked and if
necessary adjusted after approximately 250
miles (400 km).
Ribbed V-belt type
General
14Later models equipped with power
steering are fitted with a ribbed V-belt type
drivebelt in conjunction with an automatic
tensioning roller. Once the belt is installed, no
further adjustment is necessary as the correct
tension is maintained by the automatic
tensioning roller. Removal and refitting
procedures are as follows.
Removal
15For improved access, remove the air
cleaner assembly and air inlet trunking.
16If the original drivebelt is to be refitted, mark
the rotational direction on the belt with chalk.
17Using a spanner or socket on the
automatic tensioning roller hexagon, turn the
tensioning roller clockwise (as viewed from the
right-hand side of the car) and hold it in this
position. With the drivebelt tension released,
slip the drivebelt off the pulleys, then allow the
tensioner to return to its original position.
18Support the engine under the sump with a
jack and interposed block of wood.
19From under the car, unbolt the right-hand
engine mounting block from the body.
20Lower the engine support jack just
sufficiently to allow the drivebelt to be
withdrawn from between the mounting block
and the body.
Refitting
21Slip the new drivebelt between the
mounting block and body then raise the
engine, by means of the jack, to its original
position.
22Clean the threads of the mounting block
retaining bolts, apply locking fluid, and refit
the bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 2A).
23Rotate the automatic tensioner roller anti-
clockwise and route the drivebelt around the
pulleys as shown (see illustration). With the
belt correctly positioned, release the tensioner
that will automatically apply the correct
tension to the belt.
24On completion, refit the air cleaner
assembly and the air inlet trunking.
5•6Engine electrical systems
7.5 Sectional view of the Delco-Remy
“compact” series alternator
1 Drive end bracket
2 Stator
3 Rotor4 Slip rings
5 Fan
6 Rectifier
8.23 Correct routing of the ribbed V-belt

2When the starter switch is operated, current
flows from the battery to the solenoid that is
mounted on the starter body. The plunger in
the solenoid moves inwards, so causing a
centrally pivoted lever to push the drive pinion
into mesh with the starter ring gear. When the
solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel,
it closes an internal contact and full starting
current flows to the starter field coils. The
armature is then able to rotate the crankshaft,
so starting the engine.
3A special freewheel clutch is fitted to the
starter driven pinion, so that when the engine
fires and starts to operate on its own it does
not drive the starter motor.
4When the starter switch is released, the
solenoid is de-energised, and a spring moves
the plunger back to its rest position. This
operates the pivoted lever to the withdraw the
drive pinion from engagement with the starter
ring.
13Starter motor - testing
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Testing
1If the starter motor fails to turn the engine
when the switch is operated, and engine
seizure is not the problem, there are several
other possible reasons:
a)The battery is faulty
b)The electrical connections between the
switch, solenoid battery and starter motor
are somewhere failing to pass the
necessary current from the battery
through the starter to earth
c)The solenoid switch is faulty
d)The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective
e)The starter motor pinion and/or flywheel
ring gear is badly worn, and in need of
replacement
2To check the battery, switch on the
headlamps. If they dim after a few seconds,
then the battery is in a discharged state. If the
lamps glow brightly, operate the starter switch
and see what happens to the lamps. If theydim, then power is reaching the motor, but
failing to turn it. If the starter turns slowly, go
on to the next check.
3If, when the starter switch is operated, the
lamps stay bright, then insufficient power is
reaching the motor. Disconnect the battery
and the starter/solenoid power connections,
and the engine earth strap, then thoroughly
clean them and refit them. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery connections to
prevent corrosion. Corroded connections are
the most frequent cause of electrical system
malfunctions.
4If the preceding checks and cleaning tasks
have been carried out without success, a
clicking noise will probably have been heard
each time the starter switch was operated.
This indicates that the solenoid switch was
operating, but it does not necessarily follow
that the main contacts were closing properly
(if no clicking has been heard from the
solenoid, it is certainly defective). The
solenoid can be checked by connecting a
voltmeter across the main cable connection
on the solenoid and earth. When the switch is
operated, these should be a reading on the
voltmeter. If there is no reading, the solenoid
unit is faulty, and should be renewed.
5If the starter motor operates, but does not
turn the engine, then it is likely that the starter
pinion and/or flywheel ring gear are badly
worn. If this is the case, the starter motor will
normally be noisy in operation.
6Finally, if it is established that the solenoid
is not faulty, and 12 volts are reaching the
starter, then the motor itself is faulty, and
should be removed for inspection.
14Starter motor - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.3On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
4Note the wiring connections on the
solenoid, then disconnect them (see
illustration).
5Where applicable, unscrew the bolt
securing the exhaust bracket and the starter
motor mounting bracket to the cylinder block
(see illustration).
6Unscrew the two starter motor mounting
bolts. Note that the top bolt on some models
are fitted from the transmission side, and
secures a wiring harness bracket (see
illustration).
7Withdraw the starter motor.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where
applicable, ensure that the wiring harness
bracket is in place on the top mounting bolt,
and tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
15Starter motor - overhaul
5
If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed from the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most
auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit
brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before continuing as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor.
16Ignition coil - removal, testing
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
An ohmmeter will be required to test the coil
Removal
1The ignition coil is either a cylindrical metal
canister or a moulded plastic unit. It is
clamped or bolted to the left-hand inner wing
panel, near the suspension strut top mounting
(under the power steering fluid reservoir, on
Engine electrical systems 5•9
14.6 Starter motor securing bolts
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre model
(engine removed)14.5 Starter motor mounting
bracket/exhaust bracket securing bolt
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre model14.4 Starter motor and solenoid viewed
from underneath the vehicle. Solenoid
wiring connections arrowed
5

models so equipped). On 14 NV, 16 SV and
18 SV models, the ignition amplifier module is
mounted on the coil’s bracket or baseplate
(see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Carefully note the LT wiring connections
before disconnecting them (see illustration).
4Note that on models with power steering,
one of the coil securing bolts also secures the
power steering fluid reservoir bracket.
5Remove the coil.
6On models with a cylindrical type coil, the
mounting clamp can be removed from the coil
by loosening the clamp nut.
Testing
7To test the coil, first disconnect the LT
wiring and the HT lead. Test the coil’s primary
windings by connecting a multi-meter across
the LT terminals (“+” or “15” and “-” or “1”).Then the secondary windings by testing
across the HT terminal (“4”) and one of the LT
terminals (usually the “-/1” terminal, although
in some cases, either terminal may serve). On
20 XEJ models, results should closely
approximate the specified values. On all other
models, typical primary resistances are less
than 1 ohm, while secondary resistances can
be expected to be in the 4000 to 12 000 ohms
range.
8If the results obtained differ significantly
from those given, showing windings that are
shorted or open circuit, the coil must be
renewed.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct connections. Usually they are
physically different to prevent incorrect
refitting. If not, use the terminal marks ornumbers in conjunction with the relevant
wiring diagram at the back of this manual to
ensure that the connections are correctly
remade. If the connections are reversed, so
will the coil’s polarity be. While the engine
may still run, spark plug life will be reduced
and poor starting and/or misfiring may follow.
10Where applicable, ensure that the coil
suppresser is in position before refitting the
coil securing bolts.
17Distributor cap and rotor
arm -removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
14 NV and 16 SV models
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Identify each HT lead for position, so that
the leads can be refitted to their correct
cylinders, then disconnect the leads from the
spark plugs by pulling on the connectors, not
the leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead
from the coil. Pull the leads from the clips on
the camshaft cover.
3On the Bosch distributor, prise away the
two spring clips with a screwdriver, and lift off
the distributor cap. On the Lucas distributor,
unscrew the two small bolts and lift off the
cap (see illustrations).
4The rotor arm is a push fit on the end of the
distributor shaft.
5If needed, on the Bosch distributor, the
plastic shield can be pulled from the end of
the distributor, to allow examination of the
distributor components (see illustration).
Other models, where applicable
6Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.
7On DOHC models (except X20 XEV),
unscrew the two securing bolts and withdraw
the spark plug cover from the camshaft cover.
8Using a Torx socket, unscrew the three
captive securing screws and withdraw the
distributor cap (see illustration).
9Withdraw the plastic shield from the rotor
arm housing. The shield is fitted in the
housing, with an O-ring seal located in a
groove in its periphery. Ease out the shield,
taking care not to damage the rotor arm (see
illustration).
5•10Engine electrical systems
16.1 Ignition coil - 1.6 litre models - note
ignition timing basic adjustment coding
plug (arrowed)
17.3A Removing the distributor cap -
1.6 litre model (Bosch distributor) . . .
17.9 Removing the plastic shield from the
rotor arm housing - 2.0 litre model17.8 Unscrewing a distributor cap
securing screw - 2.0 litre model17.5 Removing the rotor arm and plastic
shield - 1.6 litre model (Bosch distributor)
17.3B . . .and 1.6 litre models (Lucas
distributor)
16.3 Disconnecting the coil LT wiring plug
- 2.0 litre model

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole. It can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and
re-spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. These can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-
contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer. This will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight miss-match in paint colours.
Bodywork fittings (e.g. chrome strips, door
handles, etc.), will also need to be masked off.
Use genuine masking tape and several
thicknesses of newspaper for the masking
operations.
Before beginning to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade
wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of
the primer until it is smooth. While doing this,
the work area should be thoroughly doused
with water, and the wet-and-dry paper
periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry
before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about
2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), repair of
more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of suchdamage by the DIY owner is not feasible
owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs.
The basic technique involves making a groove
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.), can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will have a problem of
finding a paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of
plastics come across in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally, will
not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but
special paints are available to match any
plastic or rubber finish can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit that consists
of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and
coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but the method of
use is to first apply the pre-primer to the
component concerned and allow it to dry for
up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied
and left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
5Major body damage - repair
5
Major impact or rust damage should only
be repaired by a Vauxhall dealer or other
competent specialist. Alignment jigs are
needed for successful completion of such
work, superficially effective repairs may leave
dangerous weaknesses in the structure.
Distorted components can also impose
severe stresses on steering and suspension
components with consequent premature
failure.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11

8Disconnect the battery negative lead.
9Unclip the lid and open the relay box, then
pull out the relay (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to paragraph 6.
24Rear brake pressure-
proportioning valves -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding. Note also that
the valve must only be renewed in pairs, and
both valves must be of the same calibration.
Ensure that correct type of valves are fitted.
The bodies have been stamped for easier
identification.
Master cylinder-mounted valves
Removal
1Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
2Locate a container beneath the master
cylinder, to catch the brake fluid that will be
released.
3Identify the two lower brake pipes for
position, then unscrew the union nuts and
disconnect the pipes from the proportioning
valves in the base of the master cylinder. Plug
the open ends of the pipes to prevent dirt
ingress.
4Unscrew the proportioning valves from the
master cylinder, and plug the open ends of
the cylinder to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, remove the polythene from the
brake fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed the
complete hydraulic system, as described in
Section 3.
Rear underbody-mounted valves
Removal
6Proceed as described in paragraph 1.
7Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) positioned under the body side
members.
8Working under the rear of the vehicle,
unscrew the union nut and disconnect the
brake pipe from one of the valves. Be
prepared for fluid spillage, and plug the open
end of the pipe to prevent dirt ingress and
further fluid spillage.
9Similarly, disconnect the flexible hose from
the valve.
10Pull the valve retaining clip from the
bracket on the underbody, noting that on
certain models, the retaining clip also secures
the ABS sensor wiring, and withdraw the valve
(see illustration).
11Repeat the procedure for the other valve.
Refitting
12Proceed as described in paragraph 5.
25Brake fluid pipes and hoses
- general, removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3, before proceeding.
General
1When checking the condition of the
system’s pipes and/or hoses, carefully check
that they do not foul other components such
as the power steering gear pipes (where
applicable), so that there is no risk of the
pipes chafing. If necessary use clips or ties to
secure braking system pipes and hoses well
clear of other components.
Rigid pipes
Removal
2Some of the commonly used brake pipes
can be obtained from Vauxhall parts dealers,
ready-formed and complete with unions, but
other brake pipes must be prepared using
4.75 mm (0.19 in) diameter brake pipe. Kits for
making the brake pipes can be obtained from
certain motor accessory shops.
3Before removing a brake pipe, remove the
brake fluid reservoir cap, and secure a piece
of polythene over the filler neck with a rubber
band, or by refitting the cap. This will reduce
the loss of fluid when the pipe is
disconnected.4Jack up the vehicle, and support securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) positioned under the body side
members.
5To remove a brake pipe, unscrew the
unions at each end, and release the pipe from
the retaining clips.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, taking
care not to overtighten the unions.
7On completion, remove the polythene from
the brake fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed
the relevant hydraulic circuit(s), as described
in Section 3.
Flexible hoses
Removal
8Proceed as described previously for the
rigid pipes, but note that a flexible pipe must
never be installed twisted, although a slight
“set” is permissible to give it clearance from
adjacent components.
Refitting
9When reconnecting a flexible hose to a
front brake caliper, note that the sealing rings
on the union bolt must be renewed.
26Handbrake - adjustment
2
Models with rear drum brakes
1The handbrake will normally be kept in
correct adjustment by the self-adjusting
action of the rear brake shoes. However, due
to cable stretch over a period of time, the
travel of the handbrake lever may become
excessive, in which case the following
operations should be carried out.
2Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
3Fully release the handbrake.
4Turn the knurled nut on the cable adjuster
(mounted on the torsion beam), until the brake
shoes can just be heard to rub when the rear
wheels are turned by hand in the normal
direction of rotation (see illustration).
9•18Braking system
23.9 ABS surge arrester relay (arrowed)
26.4 Handbrake cable adjuster. Knurled
nut arrowed - all SOHC models24.10 Brake pressure-proportioning valve
on rear underbody - DOHC model
1 Valve 2 Retaining clip

1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Air inlet temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Alternator V-belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Automatic transmission check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Bodywork check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Brake shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Clutch cable check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Distributor and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Door lock key battery - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Handbrake linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Headlamp alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Lock and hinge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Manual transmission fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Power steering fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Power steering pump drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Radiator inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rear suspension level control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Spark plug renewal (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Spark plug renewal (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Throttle linkage maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
1•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Lubricants and fluids
Refer to “Weekly Checks”
Capacities
Engine oil
Including filter:
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.0 litres
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.5 litres
1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres
20 XEJ and C 20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres
X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres
Quantity of oil required to raise level on dipstick from “MIN” to “MAX”:
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 litre
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 litre
Cooling system (approx.)
1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5.6 litres
1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2) - manual transmission . . . . . . . . . .5.8 litres
1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2) - automatic transmission . . . . . . . .5.6 litres
C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models - manual transmission . . . . .7.2 litres
C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models - automatic transmission . . .7.1 litres
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.2 litres
Transmission
Manual transmission codes:
F10 and F13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.6 litres
F16, F18 and F20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.9 litres
Automatic - at fluid change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.0 to 3.5 litres
Difference between dipstick MAX and MIN marks -approximate:
+ 20°C side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.25 litre
+ 80°C side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.40 litre
Power steering fluid
Approximately . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 litre
Fuel tank
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63.0 ±2 litres
Washer fluid
Without headlamp washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.6 litres
With headlamp washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres
Engine
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion G102
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Protection down to -15°C (5°F)
50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Protection down to -30°C (-22°F)
Note:
Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system
Note:Ignition timing adjustment is not possible on some models, shown for information only.
For further details refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as applicable.
Idle speed:
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .925 ±25 rpm
16 SV
Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .925 ±25 rpm
Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .825 ±25 rpm
18 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .925 ±25 rpm
C 16 NZ and X 16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .850 ±80 rpm
C 16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .880 ±80 rpm
C 18 NZ
Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .880 ±80 rpm
Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .830 ±80 rpm
20 NE, C 20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .800 ±80 rpm
20 XEJ and C 20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .940 ±80 rpm
X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .850 ±160 rpm
1•2Servicing Specifications