1988 OPEL CALIBRA lights

1General information and
precautions
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid type battery, which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with engine.
Information on the battery, alternator and
starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.
It should be noted that, before working on
any component in the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of
electrical short-circuits and/or fires.
Whenever the occasion arises, carefully
check the routing of the wiring harness,
ensuring that it is correctly secured by the
clips or ties provided so that it cannot chafe
against other components. Carefully check
points such as the clutch cable bracket,
clutch housing and harness support bracket,
the inlet manifold, the horn mounting bracket,
the starter motor terminals, and the rear
bumper and number plate lamp.
If evidence is found of the harness having
chafed against other components, repair the
damage and ensure that the harness is
secured or protected so that the problem
cannot occur again.
2Electrical fault-finding -
general information
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” (at the beginning of this manual) and to
Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.
The following tests relate to testing of the main
electrical circuits, and should not be used to
test delicate electronic circuits (such as anti-
lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control module is used.
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors that link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a complete understanding
of the components included in the particular
circuit concerned. The possible sources of a
fault can be narrowed down by noting
whether other components related to the
circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing
relays). Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the wiring diagrams to determine which
terminal connections will need to be checked,
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include the following:
a)a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb
with a set of test leads can also be used
for certain tests).
b)a self-powered test light (sometimes
known as a continuity tester).
c)an ohmmeter (to measure resistance).
d)a battery.
e)a set of test leads.
f)a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit
breaker or fuse incorporated, which can
be used to bypass suspect wires or
electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty
connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a
“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.
This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to
see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.
It should be possible to narrow down the
source of the fault to a particular section of
wiring. This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or
short-circuit.
Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit
To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either
the negative battery terminal or a known good
earth.
Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that the section of the
circuit between the relevant connector and
the battery is problem-free.
Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect
the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the
components that draw current from a circuit,
such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc.).
Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that there is a short-
circuit.
If no voltage is present, but the fuse still
blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates
an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” (the metal of the
engine/transmission and the car body), and
most systems are wired so that they only
receive a positive feed. The current returning
through the metal of the car body. This means
that the component mounting and the body
form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded
mountings can therefore cause a range of
electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,
lights may shine dimly (especially when
another circuit sharing the same earth point is
in operation). Motors (e.g. wiper motors or the
radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly,
and the operation of one circuit may have an
affect on another. Note that on many vehicles,
earth straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/transmission
and the body, usually where there is no metal-
12•2Body electrical systems
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this manual, and
in Chapter 5.
Caution:If the radio/cassette player fitted
to the vehicle is one with an anti-theft
security code, as the standard unit is, refer
to “Radio/cassette player anti-theft system
- precaution”in the Reference Section of
this manual before disconnecting the
battery.

27Headlamps -alignment
2
1Correct alignment of the headlamp beams
is most important, not only to ensure good
vision for the driver, but also to protect other
drivers from being dazzled.
2Accurate alignment should be carried out
using optical beam setting equipment.
3In an emergency, adjustments may be
made by turning the adjustment screws
shown (see illustrations). If an adjustment is
made, the alignment should be checked using
beam setting equipment at the earliest
opportunity.
4All 1992-on models are fitted with the
headlamp aim adjustment system, operated
through the facia-mounted switch (see
illustration).
a)Position ‘0’, is for correct alignment if just
the driving seat is occupied.
b)Position ‘1’, if all seats are occupied.
c)Position ‘2’, if all seats occupied and
luggage.
d)Position ‘3’, for just driver and luggage.
28Headlamp dim-dip system -
general, removal and refitting
3
General
1The system (where fitted) is governed by the
dim-dip control unit mounted either behind
and above the glovebox (early models), or
behind the main fuse panel (later models).
2The control unit uses the oil pressure
warning lamp circuit to ensure that, when theengine is running and the sidelamps are
switched on, reduced current is fed to the
headlamp dipped-beam circuits. This lights
the headlamps with approximately one-sixth
of their normal power so that the vehicle
cannot be driven using sidelamps alone.
3To locate the dim-dip control unit, open the
main fuse panel covering flap and unclip it
from its bottom and top mountings (Section 3).
Then use a torch to see whether the unit is
fastened to the plastic bracket behind the facia
and fuse panel. The unit is usually rectangular,
of black plastic, and can be identified by the
colours of the five wires leading to it (see
applicable wiring diagram).
Removal
4If the unit can be seen, remove the driver’s
side lower facia and footwell trim panels
(Chapter 11), then unscrew the four retaining
screws and lower the plastic bracket until the
control unit can be detached.
5If the unit cannot be seen, remove the
glovebox assembly (Chapter 11). The unit will
be fastened to the underside of the facia top
surface.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
26Headlamp aim adjustment
motor - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the headlamp, (Section 25).
2Twist the motor clockwise to release it from
the headlamp, then carefully disconnect the
motor from the balljoint (see illustrations).
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the motor is correctly engaged with the
balljoint.
12•10Body electrical systems
26.2A Headlamp aim adjustment motor
(headlamp removed)
27.4 The headlamp aim adjustment switch
- 1992-on models
27.3B Headlamp alignment adjustment screws - models with
electric aim adjustment
A Vertical adjustment screw B Horizontal adjustment screw27.3A Headlamp alignment adjustment screws - models without
electric aim adjustment
A Vertical adjustment screw B Horizontal adjustment screw
26.2B Headlamp aim adjuster balljoint
(arrowed)

Wiring diagrams 12•55
12
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
E1Left parking lamp506
E2Left tail lamp507, 745
E3Licence plate lamp513
E4Right parking lamp509
E5Right tail lamp510, 746
E6Engine compartment lamp515
E7Left high beam 535
E8Right high beam536
E9Left low beam537, 747
E10Right low beam538, 748
E11Instrument lights728, 729
E12Selector lever lamp 498, 499
E13Boot lamp585
E14Passenger compartment lamp587
E15Glove box lamp677
E16Cigarette lighter lamp676
E17Left reversing lamp597
E18Right reversing lamp598
E19Heated back window652
E20Left fog lamp553
E21Right fog lamp554
E24Left rear fog lamp548
E25Left front heating mat660
E27Left rear reading lamp680, 681
E28Right rear reading lamp683, 684
E30Right front heating mat664
E32Clock lamp863
E37Left mirror make-up lamp686
E38Computer lamp854
E39Right rear foglamp549
E40Right mirror make-up lamp688
E41Passenger compartment delay lamp 588 to 590
E50Driver door lamp866
E51Passenger door lamp884
F1 onFusesVarious
F35Voltage stabilizer702
G1Battery101
G2Alternator114
G6Diesel alternator 402 to 405
H1Radio784 to 798
H3Turn signal lamp telltale716, 718
H4Oil pressure telltale710
H5Brake fluid telltale712
H6Telltale hazard warning system570
H7Charging indicator lamp710
H8High beam telltale722
H9Left stop lamp561, 749
H10Right stop lamp562, 750
H11Left front turn signal lamp572
H12Left rear turn signal lamp573
H13Right front turn signal lamp581
H14Right rear turn signal lamp582
H15Fuel telltale705, 706
H16Preheating time telltale715
H17Trailer turn signal lamp telltale717
H18Horn670
H19Headlamps on warning buzzer594, 595
H21Parking brake telltale713
H23Airbag telltale719
H25Heated back window & mirror telltale642, 765
H26ABS telltale721
H27Safety checking warning buzzer996 to 998
H28Seat belt warning telltale723
H30Engine telltale724H33Left auxiliary turn signal lamp576
H34Right auxiliary turn signal lamp578
H36Additional stop lamp563
H37Left front loudspeaker788 to 790
H38Right front loudspeaker794 to 796
H39Left rear loudspeaker788, 789
H40Right rear loudspeaker791, 792
H42Automatic program power telltale725
H45Four wheel drive telltale727
H46Catalytic converter temperature telltale729
H47Anti-theft warning unit horn838
H48Horn671
H51Traction control telltale720
H52Left front tweeter787 to 791
H53Right front tweeter793 to 797
K3Starter relay anti-theft warning unit109, 110
K5Fog lamps relay554 to 555
K6Air conditioning relay901, 902
K7Four stage air conditioning blower relay904, 905
K8Windshield wiper interval relay603 to 606
K9Headlamps washer unit relay619, 620
K10Flasher unit567 to 569
K20Ignition coil module149, 150, 171, 172, 241, 242, 302 to 305,
361 to 364, 1001 to 1005, 1055 to 1061
K22Coolant pump relay133, 134, 969, 970
K25Glow time relay440 to 443
K26Radiator blower relays972 to 974
K27Radiator blower relay137 to 139
K30Back window wiper interval relay613 to 615
K31Airbag control unit1191 to 1198
K34Radiator blower time delay relay356 to 358, 956 to 958
K35Heated back window & mirror time delay relay650 to 652
K37Central locking control unit805 to 812
K51Radiator blower relay430, 431, 942, 943, 956, 957
K52Radiator blower relay145 to 147, 433,435,
982 to 984, 960 to 962
K57Multec unit control211 to 230, 244 to 262
K58Fuel pump relay231, 232, 262, 263
K59Running light relay520 to 525
K60Compressor relay931,932
K61Motronic control unit270 to 294, 307 to 337,
366 to 396, 1007 to 1037, 1063 to 1096
K63Horn relay671, 672
K641 stage air conditioning blower relay913, 914
K67Radiator blower relay142, 143, 436, 437, 948,
949, 964, 965, 986, 987
K68Fuel injection unit relay295 to 299, 393 to 397,
334 to 338, 1093 to 1097, 1034 to 1038
K73High beam relay (Calibra)530, 531
K76Glow time control unit413 to 417
K77Glow plugs relay419, 420
K78Preresistor relay (70A)422, 423
K79Charge indicator relay406 to 408
K80Filter heating relay426, 427, 452, 453
K82Engine revolution relay447, 448
K83Four wheel drive unit control342 to 349
K84EZ Plus control unit155 to 166, 177 to 191
K85Automatic transmission control unit473 to 496
K86Check control unit736 to 752
K87Radiator blower relay945, 946, 953, 954, 977, 978
K88Catalytic converter temperature control unit462 to 464
K89Rear fog lamp relay543 to 545
K90Compressor relay (automatic transmission only)930, 931
K94Anti-theft warning unit control unit833 to 847

12•56Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models (continued)
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
K95Traction control control unit1125 to 1140
K97Headlamps washer pump time delay relay630 to 632
K101Parking position mirror relay774 to 777
K102Park brake shift lock control unit 469 to 471
L1Ignition coil150, 172, 205, 273, 241, 302, 361
L2Ignition coil1000 to 1004, 1054 to 1059
M1Starter105, 106
M2Windshield wiper motor601 to 604
M3Heating blower motor127 to 129
M4Radiator blower motor118, 120, 140, 356, 431, 948, 954, 980
M6Left headlamp wiper motor622 to 624
M7Right headlamp wiper motor 626 to 628
M8Back window wiper motor611 to 613
M10Air conditioning blower motor905 to 908
M11Radiator blower motor136, 434, 962, 984
M13Vectra/Cavalier sun roof motor1172 to 1175
M13.1Sun roof motor1172, 1174
M13.2Timing box microswitch1172
M13.3Timing box microswitch1174
M18Driver door central locking motor807 to 810
M19Left rear door central locking motor821 to 823
M20Right rear door central locking motor825 to 827
M21Fuel pump232, 263, 297, 339, 399, 834, 1098, 1039
M23Alternator blower motor135, 974
M24Headlamps washer pump632
M26Automatic antenna motor798 to 799
M30Driver side outside mirror638 to 641
M31Passenger side outside mirror644 to 647
M32Passenger door central locking motor813 to 816
M33Idle speed actuator285, 286, 317, 318, 381,
382, 1019, 1020, 1075, 1076
M37Tail gate/boot lid central locking motor818 to 821
M39Left headlamp levelling motor 692 to 695
M40Right headlamp levelling motor696 to 699
M41Fuel filler door central locking motor823, 824
M47Driver door window lifter motor867 to 871
M48Passenger door window lifter motor885 to 889
M49Left rear window lifter motor873 to 877
M50Right rear window lifter motor891 to 895
M55Windshield and back window washer pump617
M57Coolant pump134, 970
M60Calibra tailgate central locking motor827, 828
M61Calibra sun roof motor1178 to 1186
M61.1Sun roof motor1179 to 1182
M61.2Relay 11178, 1179
M61.3Relay 21184 to 1186
M62Driver side outside mirror760 to 767
M63Passenger side outside mirror769 to 776
M65TC throttle valve actuator1130 to 1134
M66Idle air stepper motor215 to 218, 250 to 253
P1Fuel indicator704
P2Coolant temperature indicator706
P3Clock862
P4Fuel sensor704
P5Coolant temperature sensor706
P7Tachometer708
P11Airflow meter 285 to 289
P12Coolant temperature sensor282, 381
P13Outside temperature sensor856
P14Distance sensor412, 413
P17Left front revolution sensor1110, 1154
P18Right front revolution sensor1113, 1157
P19Left rear revolution sensor1116, 1160
P20Right rear revolution sensor1119, 1163P21Distance sensor731
P23Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor160, 161, 185, 186,
217 to 219, 250 to 252
P24Engine oil temperature sensor162, 187
P27Left front brake lining sensor740
P28Right front brake lining sensor740
P29Intake manifold temperature sensor382, 1016, 1072
P30Coolant temperature sensor215, 248, 313, 1017, 1073
P32Heated exhaust oxygen sensor294, 295, 331, 332, 391,
392, 1034, 1035, 1093, 1094
P33Exhaust oxygen sensor229, 257
P34Throttle valve potentiometer221 to 223, 280, 281, 253 to 255,
383 to 385, 478, 479, 1018, 1019, 1074, 1075
P35Crankshaft impulse sensor178 to 180, 289 to 291, 248 to 250,
318 to 320, 373 to 375, 1025 to 1027, 1084 to 1086
P38Transmission oil temperature sensor494
P39Trailer bulb test sensor752 to 754
P43Electronic speedometer733
P44Air mass meter393 to 397, 334 to 338,
1037, 1038, 1096, 1097
P45Transmission input revolution sensor490, 491
P46Knock control sensor322, 323, 377, 378,
1022, 1023, 1078, 1079
P47Cylinder identification hall sensor325 to 327, 385 to 387,
1028 to 1030, 1087, 1089
P48Automatic transmission distance sensor488, 489
P50Catalytic converter temperature sensor463, 464
P53Driver side anti-theft warning unit sensor839 to 847
P54Passenger side anti-theft warning unit sensor839 to 847
P55Engine coolant temperature sensor415
P56Knock control sensor II1080, 1081
P57Antenna797
R3Cigarette lighter675
R5Glow plugs418 to 420, 441 to 443
R13Left heated washer nozzle 626
R14Right heated washer nozzle628
R19Radiator blower preresistor120, 140, 945
R22Glow plugs pre-resistor423
R23Driver airbag squib1194
S1Starter switch103 to 106
S1.2Key contact switch783
S2Light switch assy
S2.1Light switch504 to 507
S2.2Passenger compartment lamp switch587
S2.3Instrument lights dimmer728
S3Heating blower switch123 to 130
S4Heated back window & mirror switch654 to 657
S5Turn signal switch assy
S5.2Low beam switch536, 537
S5.3Turn signal switch580 to 582
S5.4Parking lamp switch501, 502
S7Back up lamp switch597, 599
S8Stop lamp switch562
S9Wiper unit switch
S9.2Interval windshield wiper switch601 to 604
S9.5Back window and washer unit wiper switch614 to 616
S10Automatic transmission switch472 to 478
S11Brake fluid control switch712
S13Parking brake switch713
S14Oil pressure switch710
S15Boot lamp switch585
S17Passenger door contact switch590
S20Pressure switch
S20.1Low pressure compressor switch925

4Remove the seven trim panel securing
screws that are located along the bottom
edge of the door, and around the bottom
edge of the armrest/hand grip. Release the
door pocket clip, which is located below and
to the rear of the door pocket, out of view.
5The remaining nine plastic clips securing
the trim panel to the door must now be
released. This can be done using a
screwdriver, but it is preferable to use a
forked tool, to minimise the possibility of
damage to the trim panel and the clips. The
clips are located around the outer edge of the
trim panel.
6Once the clips have been released, pull the
trim panel away from the door, and push the
large clip at the rear of the door pocket
rearwards to allow the trim panel to be
withdrawn.
7When working on the driver’s door of
models with electric door mirrors, it will be
necessary to disconnect the mirror switch
wiring connectors as the trim panel is
withdrawn. Disconnect the battery negative
lead before disconnecting the connector, and
note the position of the connector in the
bracket at the top of the door (see
illustration).
8Similarly on models with door-mounted
kerb lights, prise out the lamp and disconnect
the wiring.
9The plastic insulating sheet can be removed
from the door after removing the loudspeaker
(referring to Chapter 12 if necessary), and the
door trim panel rear securing clip, which is
attached to the door by a single screw. Take
care not to damage the sheet.10The door pocket can be removed from the
door trim panel by the three securing screws
that are accessible from the rear of the trim
panel, and releasing the single clip.
11If desired, the door assist handle can be
prised free from the door trim panel. Take
care not to damage the securing clips.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13If the plastic insulating sheet has been
removed from the door make sure that it is
refitted intact, and securely glued to the door.
If the sheet is damaged or detached,
rainwater may leak into the vehicle or damage
the door trim.
14Where applicable, ensure that the door
mirror switch wiring connector is correctly
positioned in its bracket before refitting the
trim panel.
15Ensure that all the trim panel securing
clips engage as the panel is refitted, and if any
of the clips were broken during removal,
renew them on refitting.
Rear door
Removal
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3
inclusive.
17On models with a door-mounted electric
window operating switch, disconnect the
battery negative lead, then carefully prise the
switch from the door trim panel and
disconnect the wiring plug.
18Remove the three trim panel securing
screws. Two are located under the interior
handle surround, and the third is situated at
the base of the door assist handle.
19Proceed as described in paragraph 5.
20Once the securing clips have been
released, pull the trim panel away from the
door (see illustration).
21If desired, the plastic insulating sheet can
be removed from the door by peeling it back
from the door skin. Take care not to damage
the sheet.
22If desired, the door assist handle can be
prised free from the door trim panel. Take
care not to damage the securing clips.
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.24If the plastic insulating sheet has been
removed from the door, make sure that it is
refitted intact, and securely glued to the door.
If the sheet is damaged or detached,
rainwater may leak into the vehicle or damage
the door trim.
25Where applicable, ensure that the electric
window switch wiring is routed so that it does
not foul the window regulator mechanism.
26Ensure that all the trim panel securing
clips engage as the panel is refitted, and if any
of the clips were broken during removal,
renew them on refitting.
18Door interior handle -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel, as
described in Section 17.
2Slide the handle assembly rearwards to free
it from the door, then unhook the operating
rod, and withdraw the assembly.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
check the mechanism for satisfactory
operation before refitting the door inner trim
panel, then refit the trim panel with reference
to Section 17.
19Door exterior handle -
removal and refitting
3
Front door
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel, as
described in Section 17.
2Peel back the plastic insulating sheet
sufficiently to gain access to the exterior
handle.
3Unscrew the two nuts securing the exterior
handle to the door.
4When working on the driver’s door of
models with central locking, unclip the
microswitch from the rear edge of the exterior
handle assembly.
5Release the two lower retaining clips, then
manipulate the exterior handle assembly
through the outside of the door, and
disconnect the operating rods.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
the operation of the mechanism before
refitting the door inner trim panel, and refit the
trim panel with reference to Section 17.
Rear door
Removal
7Fully lower the window, then continue as
described in paragraphs 1 and 2.
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
17.20 Removing a rear door inner trim
panel17.7 Mirror switch wiring connector in
bracket at top of door
17.3 Remove the plastic surround from the
door interior handle
11

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

MOTTest Checks REF•9
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
REF

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction