1988 FIAT TEMPRA light

CRANKSHAFT
• Step 1: TURBO ONLY: Before fitting the crankshaft,
install the four piston sprays (a) and stake the retaining plates
(arrowed).
Q Step 2: Locate the main bearing shells so that they are
firmly seated and their tabs engage with the slots in the
journal webs.
• Step 3: Apply some grease to the smooth side of the
thrust washers and 'stick' them in position on both sides of
the rear main bearing web (at the flywheel end).
• Step 4: Oil the shells liberally with fresh engine oil and
lower the crankshaft into position.
• Step 5: Fit the remaining halves of the shells into the
bearing caps. Oil the journals and position the caps the right
way round and in the correct order.
• Step 6: Screw the bolts in finger-tight and check that the
crankshaft rotates freely and smoothly.
Q Step 7: Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively until
the specified torque setting is reached, see Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures. Check again that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
• Step 19:

Lift
the crank-
shaft clear of the
cylinder block,
retrieve the
other halves of

the
bearing
shells...
• Step 20:

...and
the two

thrust
washers

from
the rear
main bearing
web.
• Step 21:
TURBO
ENGINES ONLY.
Unbolt and

remove
the four
piston cooling

sprays
(a) from

the
cylinder
block oil gallery.

The
bearing shell
positions are
arrowed.
Job 24. Diesel engine -
reassembly.
Before starting work, read the notes at the beginning of
Job 6 for petrol engine reassembly
-
the checks and
preparation being basically the same for diesel engines.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! TURBO ENGINES ONLY. The
piston cooling sprays must be checked for serviceability
before refitting. Each spray contains its own valve which

must
open at between 1.25 and 1.75 bar. Below this
figure could cause excessive oil burning and low oil
pressure. Above this figure might result in the piston
overheating and its subsequent failure. Have your FIAT
dealer carry out this check, and replace any faulty units if
necessary. Q
• Step 9: Fit new oil
seals to the two seal
carriers.
• Step 10: Fit the
rear oil seal carrier (with
its new seal), using a
new gasket. Lubricate
the seal (illustration Job

24-9,
part b) and
lightly oil the gasket (a).
• Step 11: Position Nos. 1 and 4 crank pins at Top Dead
Centre (TDC), then fit the flywheel with its TDC mark facing
the cylinder head surface. Screw in the fixing bolts and tighten
to their specified torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures
Job 23-21
Q Step 8: Turn and lever the crankshaft tight against the
timing end and check the crankshaft end float by using a
feeler gauge between the thrust washer on the timing side of
the web and the crankshaft. Thicker washers are available if
required. See Chapter
3, Facts and Figures.

U Step 12: Fit a new seal to the front cover/oil pump
assembly, unless a new pump is being fitted, and install with a
new gasket, lightly oiling both gasket and seal. Align the cover
with the sump support plate.
PISTON CONNECTING RODS ASSEMBLIES
• Step 13:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION!
Refer to the illus-
tration and note
that the piston
should be fitted
to the connecting
rod so that when
viewed from the
timing end the
crown lift (1) is
on the right
hand/injection
pump (2) side. At
the same time,
the bore numbers
stamped on the connecting rod (3) should face left, the
opposite side. The piston pins are an interference fit in
the pistons and can be tapped into position using an
ordinary drift and secured with circlips. H
Refer to Job 6. Steps 11 to
18,
for installation procedures.
Q Step 14: Refit the oil pump pick-up and return pipes.
• Step 15: Refit the sump using a new gasket. Check that
the drain plug is tight.
• Step 16: Complete the reassembly by fitting all the
external components in the reverse order of removal. Refer to
Job
15
for cylinder head refitting.
• Step 17: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job
22

• Step 18: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
19

• Step 19: Bleed the fuel system. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Bleeding the fuel system
involves turning the engine on the starter. This should
allow it to gain oil pressure before 'firing up', but check
that the oil light has gone out as soon as the engine
starts. H
Q Step 20: Allow the engine to run at 'fast idle' until it
reaches working temperature and switch off. Allow it to cool
and check the oil and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
Q Step 21: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend
an oil and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your engine.
PART B: TRANSMISSION
PART B: Contents
Job 1. Transmission removal (with engine in car).
Job 2. Transmission refitting (with engine in car).
Job 3. Clutch
-
replacement.
Job 4. Clutch cable
-
replacement.
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

replacement.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

adjustment.
Job 8. Automatic gear selector control cable
-
replacement.
Job 9. Drive-shaft
-
removal and refitting.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer) constant velocity joint
-

replacement.
Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider joint
-
replacement.
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper
-
replacement.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings
-
replacement.
Job 14. Hydraulic clutch components.
Job 1. Transmission removal
(with engine in car).
IMPORTANT NOTE: This operation is for cars fitted with
the 1400 and 1600cc petrol engines and non-turbo diesel
engines. For the 1930cc turbo diesel engined version the
complete power unit must be removed and then
separated. See PART A, Jobs 18, 19, 21 and 22 for the
removal of several of the ancillaries detailed here.
• Step 1:
Before
starting
work, ensure
that you can
support the
car suffi-
ciently high
off the ground for the gearbox to be removed from beneath.
Make sure that the gearbox-end of the engine is supported
from above the car, or from beneath. You may be able to
fabricate your own version of this FIAT tool (arrowed).

• Step 2: Remove the bonnet. Disconnect and remove the
battery.
0 Step 3: Drain the oil from the transmission.
0 Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable or remove the slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 13: Disconnect the
gearchange rods at the gearbox
(arrowed).
O Step 14: Remove the trans-
mission mounting and bracket
assembly.
Job 2. Transmission refitting
(with engine in car).
/ a 5tep1S: • SLjpp°n the
'' £/ gearbox in such a way that
when disconnecting, it can
be withdrawn smoothly and without 'hanging' on the
engine. A trolley jack might do the job nicely.
• Step 16:
Undo the gearbox
to engine fixing
bolts...
• Step 17: ...slide the
box back until it's clear of
the clutch and lower it to
the ground using a
hydraulic stand or trolley
jack.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Refer to PART A: ENGINE, Jobs 8
and 9 in connection with this Job.
• Step 1: Refitting is the reverse of the removal work
carried out in Job 1 but bear in mind the following:
Q Step 2: Centralise the clutch driven plate, if it has been
disturbed. See Job 3.
• Step 3: NON-HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES ONLY. Adjust the
clutch cable. See Job 4
Q Step 6: Raise the front of the car and support securely on

axle stands.
Remove the road wheels and the previously
slackened hub nuts.
Q Step 7: Remove the wheel arch protective shields.
Q Step 8: Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
gearbox. (If digital instrumentation, disconnect the wiring

from
the sender unit.)
Q Step 9: Disconnect and remove the starter motor and

unplug
the reverse light connector and the earth lead from

the
transmission housing.
Q Step 10: Undo the trackrod ends securing nuts and use a
suitable 'splitter' tool to part the balljoints from the steering

arms.
Slacken the drive-shaft inner boot securing clips. Undo

the pinch
bolts fixing the stub axles to the suspension struts,

pull
the stub axles clear and extract the drive-shafts.
0 Step 11: Support the engine at the gearbox end, just

taking
the weight as described in Step 1.
Q Step 12: Remove the central power unit support (a), the
flywheel guard (b) and the exhaust bracket (c).
• Step 5: With

the
car
still
on the
ground, loosen

the nuts
fixing the
constant velocity

joints
to the hubs.
These require an
enormous force

to be
tightened or
released (see

Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures) and they will have been
staked. There is a severe risk of pulling the car off supports if

you
attempt to undo these nuts while the car is raised off the
ground. Slacken the front wheel nuts.
Job 1-14

Job 8. Automatic gear selector
control cable - replacement.
• Step 4:
Release the
outer cable
centring bush
from its
housing in the
gearbox.
• Step 5: H INSIDE INFORMATION! To
do this, you will have to make a simple
tool as shown here. There is no FIAT
'special tool'
-
each dealer has to make
this one himself! Use the tool to push
lightly upwards, so that the cable
centring bush (illustration Job
6-4

arrowed) comes out of its seat. B
• Step 6: Fit the new cable in the reverse
order. Use a new gasket when refitting the
sump.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Readjust the cables if
necessary. See Jobs 7 and 8.
Q Step 7: Refill the transmission with
automatic transmission fluid. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic
transmission) - adjustment.
Refer to the illustrations in Job 6.
Q Step 1: Check that the slow running speed is correct and
the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted, with just a small
amount of slack.
Q Step 2: Disconnect the kickdown cable from the idler
pulley and ensure that it is perfectly free in its operation.
• Step 3: With the selector lever in 'P', start the engine and
let it idle.
Q Step 4: Pull the inner cable by hand until resistance is felt,
caused by the compression of the valves. The cable end should
now line up with its locating slot in the idler pulley
-
if not,
adjust nuts (7) and (8).
[_l Step 5: Reconnect the cable and then switch off the
engine.
• Step 6: Check that when the accelerator pedal is hard
down, there is
1
mm of further movement left on the
kickdown cable, otherwise, make further adjustments on nuts
(7) and (8).
Refer to illustration Job 6, Step 3.
• Step 1: Raise the car and support it securely on axle stands.
• Step 2: Remove the cover from the gear selection
mechanism and familiarise yourself with the drawing referred
to here.
Q Step 3: Manually select the 'P' (park) position, using the
lever beneath the gearchange (see illustration Job
6-3,
part
6).

• Step 4: Disconnect the cable from the selector eyelet (3)
and detach from the slot in the front end of the bracket (5).
Q Step 5: Disconnect the inner cable from the gearlever (6)
and release the outer casing from its gearbox mounted
bracket (7). Remove the cable.
Q Step 6: Ensure that 'P' (park) is still engaged by moving
the gearlever (6
-
beneath the car) fully rearward.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When 'Park' is properly engaged you
will not be able to turn both front wheels in the same
direction at the same time. This is because the trans-
mission should be 'locked' when 'park' is engaged.
• Step 7: Connect the new cable at the bracket (7) and
then at the bottom of the gear lever (6).
• Step 8: Feed the other end of the cable through to the
inside of the car and fix the outer casing into the slot in
bracket (5).
• Step 9: Put the interior selector lever (2) in the 'P' (park)
position and with the inner cable taut, check that the eyelet
(3) aligns perfectly with the selector pin.
• Step 10: If necessary, slacken the adjustment nut (4) and
adjust the position of the eyelet (3) accordingly. Fit the eyelet
to the pin and tighten the nut (4).
• Step 11: Check that the gears engage in their correct
positions on the selector indicator.
T "I FACT FILE: CHECKING AUTOT
qp- TRANSMISSION SELECTION
EL
-
• Now that you have completed the
installation, and BEFORE USING THE
VEHICLE ON THE ROAD, carry out the
following check:
• The engine should only start when you have selected
either 'P' (park), or 'N' (neutral).
• The gear lever selector positions should agree with
those indicated on the display panel.
• When 'R' (reverse) is selected, the reverse light
should come on. With the ignition switched off, the
buzzer should sound if any position other than 'P'
(park) is selected.
Q Step 12: Refit the selection mechanism cover.
0
Job 6-5

Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider
joint - replacement.
• Step 3: Replace the (split) rubber mounting and refit the
weight.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings -
replacement.
Job 11-1
a - distance - 305 mm b - spider joint c - inner gaiter d - inner bearing seal e
-
vibration damper f
-
outer gaiter
g - circlip h - outer u.j. i - hub mounting spline
• Step 1: Note the arrangement of the inner spider joint
and drive-shaft components.
Q Step 2: Remove the
drive-shaft from the car. See
Job 9.
• Step 3: Remove the
circlip and pull or press the
spider joint from the drive-
shaft.
• Step 4: Remove the inner gaiter (illustration Job
11-1,

part c) from the seal bearing (Job
11-1,
partd). Check the
bearing for wear and smooth operation.
Q Step 5: Replace it if necessary by using a standard type
puller to remove it from the shaft, driving the new one into
position with a suitable length of tubing.
Q Step 6: After obtaining a new spider joint, if necessary,
(available as a complete replacement item from your FIAT
dealership), fit the new gaiter and its retainer to the shaft,
followed by the spider joint and circlip. No lubrication is
required prior to refitting the drive-shaft.
• Step 7: E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! The turbo diesel
uses an inboard CV joint similar to the outer one except
that it has a flange for attachment to the transmission.
(See PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A ) Inspect and
replace in the same way as the outer one. The interme-
diate shaft can only be inspected for wear in its bearing
which cannot be removed separately. Therefore, the
whole unit must be changed if defects are found. Q
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper -
replacement.
Refer to Job
11,
Step 1
Q Step 1: A damper is fitted to the right-hand drive-shaft to
prevent vibration in what is a long drive-shaft. The rubber
mounting can disintegrate or become damaged.
Q Step 2: Use an Allen key to separate the two halves of
the weight.
s * You ™yfind *
" U ' necessary to pull out
gently

on the stub axle and at
the

same time tap lightly (so you don't damage the
thread) on the end of the shaft to knock it through.
• Retrieve the stub axle/hub assembly.
Q Step 7: Use a large vice or a press to push the hub out of
the stub axle.
• Step 8: You may have to remove the bearing inner track
from the hub if it comes out with it.
• Step 2: Partly dismantle the front suspension as described
in Job 9. Steps 2 to 6.
• Step 3: Unbolt the brake caliper and support bracket and
tie it clear.
• Step 1: Take note of the components illustrated here.
Also, see PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION, Job
12

where this work is described in more detail.
Q Step 4: Unbolt the brake disc and shield.
• Step 5: Undo the track control arm to stub axle pinch
bolt and
withdraw the
balljoint pin from
the stub axle.
• Step 6: Ease
the stub axle
(illustration Job

13-1,
parts d
and c, combined)
off the drive-
shaft splines (Job

11-1,
parti)
leaving the
inboard end of the
mission.
drive-shaft still attached to the trans-

Job 5. Coolant pump -
replacement.
L) Step 4: Lower the switch into water until the thread is

just
covered and the terminals remain dry.
G Step 5: Heat the water slowly. The bulb should light just
below boiling point (90 to 94 degrees Celsius) and go out

when
the temperature falls below 85 to 89 degrees Celsius.
G Step 6: Refit with a new O-ring but do not over tighten.
Job 4. Thermostat - replacement.
G Step 1: Drain the cooling system.
G Step 2: Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing. Illustration Type 1, part 4 (petrol), or Type 2, part
6 (diesel). Undo the bolts and remove the housing/thermostat
assembly.
G Step 3: Clean the mating surfaces, fit the new unit with a

new
gasket.
G Step 4: Reconnect the hoses and refill the cooling system

with
the correct 50/50 FL 'Paraflu' anti-freeze mixture. See

Chapter
5, Servicing Your Car.
E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! For location of the water pump,
see illustration Type 1 (petrol), or Type 2 (diesel). B
• Step 1: Raise the bonnet and drain the cooling system.
Remove the air cleaner.
• Step 2: Unplug the alternator leads, slacken the bolts and
remove the drive belt. Remove the alternator.
• Step 3: Disconnect the hoses and the metal transfer pipe
from the pump.
• Step 4: Undo the securing bolts and remove the coolant
pump.
• Step 5: Discard the old gasket and clean off the mating
surfaces.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order using a new gasket.
• Step 7: Adjust the drivebelt tension. See Chapter 5,
Servicing Your Car.
• Step 8: Fill the cooling system with the correct 50/50
solution of FL 'Paraflu' anti-freeze solution. See Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures.
PART D: IGNITION SYSTEMS
——
PART D: Contents
Job 1. Ignition component positions. Job 4. Distributor
-
removal and refitting (1.6 litre engine).
Job
2.
Ignition coil
-
replacement. Job 5. Electronic ignition.
Job
3.
Distributor
-
removal and refitting (1.4 litre engine).
Job 1. Ignition component
positions.
washer g - distributor spacer Job 1-2B
G Point 1: Take note of the positions of the major ignition
components.
Q Point 2B: These are the 1.6 ignition components. Later
models had the coil integral with the distributor.
o
a
>
H
w
w
ON
(A
H
ri
S
VI
107
G Point 2A: This is the 1.4 system, from 1993-on. Earlier
components are in the same positions.
a
-
distributor b
-
ignition coil ^ c-HT leads ^ d
-
clamp with bolt and washer e
-
plug f
-
HT lead support g
-
distributor spacer
Job 1-2 A

Job 2. Ignition coil - replacement.
ALL 1.4 MODELS AND 1.6 MODELS UP TO 1993
Q Step 1: Locate the coil (2) next to
the battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On 1.6 models
from 1993 with SPI Monomotronic
fuel injection, the high tension coil
is integral with the distributor.
• Step 2: Make sure the ignition is
switched off and disconnect all LT (the
smaller, low tension) wires from the
coil, making note of their locations for
refitting.
• Step 3: Unplug the HT (the
thicker, high tension) lead to the
distributor at the coil end. Undo the
mountings and remove the coil.
• Step 4: Mount the new coil, remake all connections
correctly and firmly.
Job 3. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.4 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.4. LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
This system is of the BREAKERLESS
INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE type (2nd gener-
ation) and employs a distributor looking
much like those used on older cars, still
having an internal centrifugal advance mechanism, a vacuum
advance mechanism (3),
but NO contact breaker
points - an electronic
control module (2)
instead. This means that
once set, the timing
cannot alter through
points gap fluctuation.
Maintenance is also
reduced to a minimum,
the main requirements
being to keep the unit
clean and dry.
l_) Step 1: Locate the distributor (see illustration Job1-2A,
part a) which is mounted on the forward facing side of the
engine block, close to the timing belt cover.
I—] Step 2: Remove the distributor cap and leads.
Q Step 3: Disconnect the (thinner) low tension lead, undo
the distributor base clamp and withdraw the distributor.
Q Step 4: Turn
the engine until
the crankshaft
pulley timing
mark is aligned
with the '0' (TDC)
mark on the
timing belt cover
(a) and the marks
seen through the
timing belt
window (b), also
line up.
• Step S: If the
marks

seen through the window
do not align
-
turn the
engine another complete revolution and they will.
• Step 6: Refit the distributor with the centre of the rotor
contact pointing 180 degrees away from (in other words,
exactly opposite) the reference mark on the distributor dust
cover.
Q Step 7: Refit the distributor cap and remake all connec-
tions. Leave the vacuum pipe disconnected but plug the end
of the pipe.
Q Step 8: Refit the base clamp but leave just loose enough
to allow the distributor to turn.
Q Step 9: Connect a stroboscopic timing light and start the
engine. Run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Step 10:
Rotate the
distributor body
the required
amount in either
direction to align
the pulley timing
mark with the 10
degree BTDC
mark on the
timing belt cover
• Step 11: Remove the timing light, unplug and reconnect
the vacuum pipe.
Job 4. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.6 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.6 LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
The DIGIPLEX 2 ALL ELECTRONIC (2nd
generation) IGNITION system used on the
1.6 litre engine is of advanced design and
requires no maintenance. Because there is no
mechanical wear, the advance curves remain constant during
the life of the unit. Inaccuracies due to wear or vibration are
eliminated. The high spark intensity is constant, even with a
low battery when starting, and at high RPM.
and lock the distributor base clamp.

PART E: ELECTRICAL ARID INSTRUMENTS
PART E: Contents
Job 1. Alternator
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear light cluster
-
replacement.
Job 2. Starter motor
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Side repeater indicators
-
replacement.
Job 3. Instrument panel
-
removal and refitting. Job 12. Number plate light
-
replacement.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
-
replacement. Job 13. Interior/courtesy light
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Windscreen wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 14. Fuel gauge sender unit
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Hatchback wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 15. Central locking
-
replacement of components.
Job 7. Windscreen washer pump
-
replacement. Job 16. Electric windows
-
replacement of components.
Job 8. Radio aerial
-
replacement. Job 17. Diesel engines. Glow plugs
-
checking and
Job 9. Headlight cluster
-
replacement. replacement.
Job 1. Alternator - removal
and refitting.
Job 3. Instrument panel -
removal and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Q Step 2: Disconnect all the wires from the back of the
alternator
-
the main output wire is released by undoing its
securing nut. Slacken the bolt securing the inboard end of the
adjustment bar, undo and remove the bolt from the alternator
end of the bar. Slacken the drivebelt and remove it.
Q Step 3: On manual steering cars, unbolt and remove the
adjuster bracket from the cylinder block.
Q Step 4: Release the securing buttons and remove the
engine splash shield on power steering cars.
Q Step 5: Undo the nut from the long through bolt and
note the position of the washers. Support the alternator and
remove the bolt, then withdraw the alternator from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order and make sure your
electrical connections are sound. Adjust the drivebelt tension.
See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car
• Step 1: Disconnect
terminal.
• Step 2: Undo the
screws (arrowed) and
remove the speaker
cover (1).
Job 2. Starter motor - removal
and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
• Step 2:
Undo and remove
all the electrical
connections (a)
from the starter
(b) and starter
solenoid (c).
Q Step 4: Refit in reverse order, ensuring that all connec-
tions are sound.
Q Step 5: Raise the instrument panel enough to unplug
the connectors from the rear. Disconnect the speedometer
drive (if non-electronic type) and remove the instrument
panel from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in the reverse order and be sure that all
connections are properly made.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
replacement.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION! The cable comes in
two parts, joined in the middle by a connector (a). Q
• Step 2: Follow Job 3, Steps 1 to 3 Then, lift the
instrument panel
sufficiently so that
you can gain
access to the
cable.
^Jj
Job
4-1

the battery at the negative (earth)
• Step 3: Undo the
exposed screws that
secure the
instrument panel
(arrowed).
• Step 4: Slide
off the screw
cover
(2)
from
the other end of
the instrument
panel and
remove the two
screws found beneath it.
• Step 3:
Undo the three mounting bolts and the wiring harness bracket
from the top bolt and withdraw the starter.