1985 FORD GRANADA battery location

9Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
10The crankshaft and bearings can be
examined and if necessary renovated.
11Commence refitting as follows(see
illustration).
12Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
14Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked, but if oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
15Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
16Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing caps
in their correct locations, with the arrows on the
caps pointing towards the front of the engine.
17Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
18Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
19Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with newcomponents, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
20Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
21Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
22Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
23Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
24Install the new oil seal with reference to
Section 24.
25With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
26Refit the pistons and connecting rods as
described previously in this Chapter.
27Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 27
of this Chapter, noting that the production
bearing undersizes are indicated as follows.
Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft —
standard diameter main bearing journals.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
— main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.
Green spot on counterweight — big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize.
Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter,
but note that the connecting rod bolts should
be renewed on reassembly, and when
renewing the cylinder head bolts, the latest
type bolts with hexagonal heads should
always be used.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 35
of this Chapter, noting the following points.
a)If the cylinder head has been removed,
pay particular attention to the note at the
beginning of Section 18.
b)If removed during any dismantling
operations, new flywheel driveplate bolts
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
c)After reassembling the main engine
components, refer to paragraph 3 of
Section 14 and refit the ancillary
components listed.Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter,
but note that when the engine is first started, a
metallic tapping noise may be heard. This is
due to the timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly taking time to pressurize with oil,
resulting in a temporarily slack chain. The
noise should stop after a short time, once oil
pressure has built up.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
35Compression test -
description and interpretation
34Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
33Engine reassembly - general
information
32Examination and renovation -
general information
31Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2B•18DOHCengine
30.11 Crankshaft main bearings and
associated components
1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle
4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil groove
6 Bearing shell with oil groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder block
procarmanuals.com

Other items
34Disconnect the throttle cable from the
operating lever and bracket.
35Disconnect the right-hand exhaust
downpipe from the manifold then remove the
starter motor, the oil filter, and disconnect the
left-hand exhaust downpipe, in that order.
Refer to Part A, Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 8
of this Chapter.
Cylinder head bolts on the V6 engine may
be conventional (hexagon-headed) or Torx
type. The appropriate Torx key will be needed
to deal with the latter.
Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillaries can be
removed. The actual items removed, and the
sequence of removal, will depend on the work
to be done.
Distributor and bracket
Spark plugs
Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifolds
Clutch
Alternator and bracket
Oil pressure switch(see illustration) Temperature gauge sender
Engine bearer arms
Dipstick
If an oil cooler is fitted between the oil filter
and the block, remove it by disconnecting the
coolant hoses and unscrewing the central
sleeve. The cooler and seal can now be
removed. If the threaded bush is removed
from the block (it may come out with the
sleeve) it must be renewed.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the inlet manifold and associated
components.
3Unbolt the power steering pump, remove
the drivebelts and move the pump aside.
Support it by wiring it to adjacent
components.
4Remove the alternator and its bracket.
5Remove the three bolts which secure each
rocker shaft. Remove the shafts and
pushrods, keeping them in order so that they
can be refitted in the same locations.
6Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the
manifolds.
7Remove the spark plugs.8Slacken the cylinder head bolts half a turn at
a time, following the reverse sequence to that
used when tightening (see illustration 38.5).
Remove the bolts.
9Remove the cylinder heads. If they are
stuck, try to rock them free, or tap them with a
soft-faced hammer. Do nothit them directly
with a metal hammer, and do notlever in
between the joint faces.
10Recover the head gaskets.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
11Disconnect the battery and drain the
cooling system.
12Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the thermostat housing.
13Disconnect the air hoses from the throttle
valve housing (see illustration).
14Detach the two wiring plugs from the
airflow sensors (see illustrations).
15Pull the breather hose from the oil filler cap
(see illustration).
16Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
together with the airflow sensors and air hoses.
17Disconnect the hoses from the coolant
expansion tank.
18Disconnect the wiring from the following
components:
a)Alternator (right-hand cylinder head
removal only).
b)Coolant temperature sensors(see
illustration).
c)Idle speed control valve (see illustration).
d)Throttle valve potentiometer.
e)The fuel-injector wiring loom.8Cylinder heads - removal
7Ancillary components - removal
6Engine dismantling - general
2C•8V6 engines
7.1 The oil pressure switch is on the left-
hand side of the block
8.14b Throttle position sensor wiring plug
Vacuum nozzles arrowed
8.14a Front airflow sensor wiring plug
8.15 Oil filler breather hose (arrowed)8.18a Coolant temperature sensor location
8.13 Disconnecting the air hoses from the
throttle valve housing
procarmanuals.com

19Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
ignition distributor and the fuel temperature
sensor (see illustrations).
20Release the pressure in the fuel distributor
pipe by depressing the pin in the vent valve.
Cover the valve with a rag during this
operation to prevent fuel being sprayed out
(see illustration).
21Disconnect the fuel lines (see illustration).
22Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
following components:
a)Fuel pressure regulator.
b)Throttle valve assembly.
c)T-piece connector (see illustration).
23Disconnect the rocker cover breather hose
(see illustration).
24Unbolt the plenum chamber and place it to
one side with the throttle cable attached.25Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the ignition coil noting their correct
fitted locations. Undo the two retaining screws
then remove the distributor cap and HT leads
as an assembly.
26Using a 19 mm socket on the crankshaft
damper centre bolt, set No 1 piston to its firing
point (12°BTDC) and remove the distributor.
27If the right-hand cylinder head is to be
removed, remove the drivebelts, unbolt the
alternator and power steering pump and tie
them to one side of the engine compartment.
28Unbolt and remove the rocker cover(s).
29Unbolt and remove the rocker shaft(s) (see
illustration).
30Withdraw the pushrods and keep them in
their originally fitted sequence.
31Disconnect the inlet manifold to timingcover coolant hose from the manifold.
32Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold
complete with fuel rail and injectors. Discard
the gasket.
33Disconnect the exhaust downpipe(s) from
the manifold(s).
34Disconnect the earth straps from the rear
of the left-hand cylinder head and release the
cable retaining clamp.
35Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
36Unscrew the cylinder head bolts using the
reverse of the tightening sequence (see
illustration 38.5). Obtain new bolts for refitting.
Remove the cylinder head(s) and discard the
gasket(s).
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 16
of this Chapter but note that there are 24 bolts
retaining the sump, not 23.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the engine oil.
3Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.
10Timing cover and drive -
removal
9Sump - removal
V6 engines 2C•9
2C
8.18b Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve wiring plug8.19a Disconnecting the distributor wiring
plug8.19b Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug
8.22 Vacuum hose T-piece connector
8.20 Fuel rail vent (depressurising) valve
and cap8.21 Fuel feed (A) and return (B) hoses
8.23 Rocker cover breather hose (arrowed)8.29 Removing rocker shaft and pedestal
procarmanuals.com

29Fit the sump and the retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten them progressively in two stages.
30Oil the lip of the timing cover oil seal and
the contact surface of the crankshaft damper.
31Fit the damper to the crankshaft, being
careful not to dislodge the Woodruff key. Draw
the damper into position using the retaining
bolt and washer.
32Remove the bolt and apply sealant to the
faces of the washer. Refit the bolt and washer
then jam the starter gear ring teeth and tighten
the bolt to the specified torque.
33Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
34Refit the crossmember side brackets and
brake pipes.
35Reconnect the engine mountings and
remove the engine hoist or axle stands (see
“Jacking”).36Connect the steering shaft coupling with
the steering wheel and front roadwheels in the
straight-ahead position. Fit the pinch-bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque.
37Fit the starter motor and connect the leads.
38Bolt the coolant distributor pipe to the
timing cover.
39Refit the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts and tension them (see
illustrations).
40Fit the fan and radiator, connect all coolant
hoses, and fit the radiator upper shroud.
41Fit the air cleaner cover with attachments.
42Fill the engine with oil and coolant and
connect the battery.
2.8 litre engine
1Clean the mating faces of the crankcase
and sump. Ensure that the grooves in the seal
carriers are clean.
2Fit the rubber seals in the grooves.
3Apply sealing compound on the crankcase
and slide the tabs of the gasket under the cut-
outs in the rubber seals (see illustration).
4Ensure that the gasket hole lines up with the
holes in the gasket crankcase and fit the
sump. Take care not to dislodge the gasket.
5Fit the 24 securing bolts. Tighten them in
the sequence shown to the Stage 1 specified
torque starting at point A (see illustration),then to the Stage 2 torque starting at point B.
6Fit the sump drain plug, using a new
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque.
7If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
8Refer to paragraphs 28 to 29, Section 36.
2.8 litre engine
1Lubricate the valve tappets with clean
engine oil and insert them in the cylinder
block. Ensure that they are fitted in their
original locations (see illustration).
2Ensure that the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder heads are clean.
3Position the new cylinder head gaskets over
the guide bushes on the cylinder block. Check
that they are correctly located. The right and
left-hand gaskets are different. The gaskets
are marked FRONT TOP (see illustration).
4Carefully lower the cylinder heads onto the
cylinder block. Oil the threads and contact
faces of the cylinder head bolts and insert
them into their holes.
5Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in the
correct order(see illustration),to the Stage 1
specified torque. Repeat in the same order for
Stages 2 and 3. Final tightening, when
required, is done after warm-up.
38Cylinder heads - refitting
37Sump - refitting
V6 engines 2C•19
2C
36.39a Alternator drivebelt tensioner strap
bolt36.39b Power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt37.3 Slide the sump gasket tab into the seal
cut-out
38.1 Fitting a tappet in the block
37.5 Sump bolt tightening sequence
For A and B see text
38.3 Cylinder head gasket markings38.5 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 21.
1On 2.0 litre DOHC engines only, remove the
water pump/alternator drivebelt as described
in the previous Section.
2Loosen the alternator lower mounting
through-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
3Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
4Commence refitting by positioning the
tensioner on the cylinder block, ensuring that
the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket
engages with the corresponding hole in the
cylinder block (see illustration). Tighten the
securing bolt.
5Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit and tighten the upper
mounting bolt, then the lower throughbolt.
6Check the full length of the drivebelt for cracks
and deterioration and renew if necessary.
7Fit the drivebelt using a reversal of the
removal procedure, and release the tensioner
to tension the drivebelt.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurize the cooling system by
unscrewing the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.
3Slacken the hose clips on all the hoses
which are connected to the tank. Pull off and
plug those hoses which are above the
waterline.4Remove the two screws which secure the
tank. Tilt the tank so that the coolant lies away
from the outlets, then disconnect and plug the
remaining hose.
5Disconnect the coolant level sensor, when
fitted, and remove the tank.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Top-up the cooling system on completion.
1The temperature gauge sender is located
towards the front of the engine. On SOHC
models it is just below the inlet manifold (see
illustration); on V6 models it is just below the
top hose connection on the front of the left-
hand cylinder head, and on DOHC models it is
located at the front of the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
2Slacken the expansion tank cap to release
pressure in the cooling system, taking
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.Tighten the cap again to minimise
coolant loss.
3Disconnect the wiring from the sender unit.
Unscrew and remove it, being prepared for
some coolant spillage.
4Smear sealant on the sender unit threads
before refitting, then insert and tighten it.
Reconnect the wiring.
5Top-up the cooling system if necessary,
then run the engine and check the operation of
the temperature gauge.The cooling fan switch is located in the end
of the thermostat housing.
Removal and refitting of the switch is as
described for the temperature gauge sender in
the previous Section.
Models before April 1992
Front
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument cluster (Chapter 13).
3Remove the facia top (Chapter 12).
4Unclip the two control cables from the
control levers (see illustration).
5On air conditioned models, disconnect the
hoses from the vacuum switch.
6Remove the four screws which secure the
heater control assembly. Withdraw the
assembly from the facia.
7When refitting, secure the control assembly
with the four screws. Reconnect the vacuum
switch (when applicable) and the control
cables. Adjust the control cables if necessary
by altering the positions of the cable clips.
8When satisfied with the operation of the
cables, refit the other disturbed components.
Rear
9Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
10Unclip the control cables and remove the
control unit.
11Refit in the reverse order to removal.
Models from April 1992
12Undo the two instrument panel surround
retaining screws, then carefully release the
retaining clips and remove the surround from
the facia.
13Pull off the three knobs from the heater
and ventilation controls to gain access to the
two hidden central vent panel retaining
screws. Slacken and remove the four panel
retaining screws and partially withdraw the
17Heater controls - removal and
refitting
16Cooling fan switch - removal
and refitting
15Temperature gauge sender -
removal and refitting
14Expansion tank - removal and
refitting
13Water pump/alternator
drivebelt tensioner - removal
and refitting
12Water pump/alternator
drivebelt(s) - inspection,
renewal and adjustment
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7
3
13.4 On refitting, ensure the drivebelt
tensioner lug (A) engages with hole in the
mounting bracket (B)15.1a Temperature gauge sender (manifold
removed)15.1b Temperature gauge sender unit
location (arrowed)
17.4 Heater control cable clip (arrowed)
viewed through windscreen
procarmanuals.com

16Locate the heater matrix feed and return
hoses on the engine compartment bulkhead.
Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
both hoses from the matrix unions. Be
prepared for some coolant spillage. Plug the
matrix unions to prevent residual coolant
being spilt as the assembly is removed.
17Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws then remove the matrix cover plate
and gasket from the bulkhead; discard the
gasket as a new one should be used on
refitting.
18Remove the facia panel.
19Release the facia wiring loom from the
bulkhead to gain access to the demister
nozzle fasteners (see illustration).
20Remove the retaining nut and screw then
detach each windscreen demister nozzle from
the heater assembly. Undo the two retaining
nuts and detach the centre face level nozzle
from the heater.
21Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
then detach the right-hand face level nozzle
from the heater and remove it from the vehicle.
Repeat the procedure for the left-hand nozzle.
22To detach each rear footwell nozzle from
the heater unit, remove the pin from the nozzle
retaining clip whilst supporting the outer part
of the retaining clip from the rear (see
illustration). Note: If the rear of the clip is not
supported when the pin is removed it will drop
down into the nozzle. To retrieve the clip will
require the removal of the vent which first
requires the front seat to be removed and
carpet lifted.
23Disconnect the wiring connector from the
heater control panel.
24Undo the two nuts securing the heater
assembly to the bulkhead then carefully
manoeuvre the assembly out of the vehicle
whilst being prepared for the possibility of
coolant spillage from the matrix unions.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Tighten all retaining nuts and screws
securely and ensure that all nozzles are
securely connected to the heater
assembly so that there are no air gaps or
leaks.b)Check the operation of all heater cables
before refitting the facia, ensuring that the
relevant component moves smoothly from
the fully open to the fully closed position.
c)Ensure that the heater hoses are correctly
reconnected and are securely held by the
retaining clips.
d)Use a new gasket when refitting the matrix
cover plate.
e)Refill the cooling system.
1Remove the heater assembly as described
in the previous Section.
2Remove the two screws which secure the
heater matrix. Withdraw the matrix.
3If the matrix is leaking it is best to obtain a
new or reconditioned unit; home repairs are
seldom successful.4To dismantle, release the clips which secure
the casing halves together by using a
screwdriver. Carefully prise the halves apart
and separate them.
5Remove the flap valves and operating levers
from the casing halves, noting how they are
fitted for reference when reassembling.
6Flush the matrix with clean water to remove
any debris.
7Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.
Additional clips may be needed to secure the
casing halves once they have been separated.
1Drain the cooling system.
2Noting the correct fitted positions, slacken
the retaining clips and disconnect the coolant
hoses from the valve.
3Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top of
the valve then unclip the valve and remove it
from the retaining bracket.
4Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the coolant hoses are
reconnected to their original unions on the
valve and are securely held in position with the
retaining clips.
1Only those items which can be renewed
without discharging the system are described
here. Other items must be dealt with by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist (see
illustration).
Compressor drivebelt
2Disconnect the battery earth lead.
3On OHC engines, remove the radiator
cooling fan.
4Slacken the compressor strap and pivot
bolts (see illustration),move the compressor
22Air conditioning system -
component renewal
21Heater coolant valve -
removal and refitting
20Heater matrix - dismantling
and reassembly
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•9
3
19.19 Release the facia wiring loom from
the bulkhead to gain access to the
demister nozzle retaining nut and screw
(arrowed)19.22 Detach the rear footwell nozzles from
the heater assembly
If the heater matrix is blocked
it can sometimes be cleared
by reverse-flushing using a
garden hose and a proprietary
radiator cleaning product if necessary.
22.1 Air conditioning system
component locations
1 De-ice thermostat
2 Evaporator
3 Expansion valve
4 Compressor
5 Compressor clutch
6 Pressure switch
7 Sight glass
8 Dehydrator
9 Cooling fan
10 Condenser
procarmanuals.com

25To remove the pump, first remove the fuel
tank.
26Unscrew the fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit by engaging two crossed screwdrivers in
the slots on either side of the unit mounting
flange. Recover the seal.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is
necessary to fit a new seal.
1Run the fuel level as low as possible before
removing the tank.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the fuel filler cap. Siphon or pump
the remaining fuel out of the tank. Store the
fuel in a suitable sealed container.
4Remove the two screws on either side of the
filler neck.
5Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
6Remove the shield from the right-hand rear
inner wheel arch. Also remove the rear bumper
undershield. which is secured by six screws.
7Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
from the tank (see illustration). Drain the fuel
in the lines into a suitable container and
remove it.
8Support the fuel tank. Remove the two bolts
which secure the rear ends of the fuel tank
supporting straps.
9Lower the tank and supporting straps,unhooking the front ends of the straps from
their locations. Disconnect the wiring and the
vent hose from the tank. Remove the tank with
filler pipe attached.
10Fuel tank repairs including soldering or
welding must be left to specialists. Even when
empty, the tank may contain explosive vapour.
Proprietary compounds are available for
making temporary “cold” repairs.
11Refit the fuel tank in the reverse order to
removal. Check for leaks on completion.
1Remove the fuel tank.
2Unscrew the sender unit from the tank.
There is a Ford tool (No 23-014) which
engages with the lugs on the unit, but with
patience a pair of crossed screwdrivers or
similar items can be used instead.
3Remove the sender unit, taking care not to
damage the float or bend the float arm(see
illustration).Recover the seal.
4A defective sender unit must be renewed;
spares are not available. Renew the seal in any
case.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Fitted to DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engined models, this device is designed to cutoff pressurised fuel to the fuel-injection system
in the event of an accident. It does this by
interrupting the electrical supply to the fuel
pump.
2To remove the switch, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Open up the tailgate and locate the switch
which is mounted near the tailgate lock striker.
On Estate models the switch is located behind
a trim panel in the rear right-hand corner of the
luggage compartment (see illustration).
4Remove the trim panel and disconnect the
switch wiring connector (see illustrations).
5Extract the two retaining screws and
remove the switch.
6Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, depress the switch
button to ensure that the switch has been
reset.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Unclip the under-dash insulation on the
driver’s side.
3Disconnect the cable from the pedal. The
cable may be secured by a clip, or it may slot
into a “keyhole” fitting (see illustration).
4Remove the two nuts which secure the
throttle pedal bracket to the bulkhead.
Remove the pedal and bracket.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
8Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
7Fuel cut-off inertia switch -
removal and refitting
6Fuel gauge sender unit -
removal and refitting
5Fuel tank - removal and refitting
4•6Fuel and exhaust systems
5.7 Fuel tank supply (left) and return hoses
7.4a On early models it will be necessary to
remove the luggage compartment rear trim
panel to gain access to the fuel cut-off
inertia switch . . .
7.4b . . . on later models an access cover in
the trim panel is provided8.3 Throttle pedal showing “keyhole” cable
fitting (arrowed)
6.3 Removing the fuel gauge sender unit7.3 Fuel cut-off inertia switch location -
Estate models
procarmanuals.com

8Remove the drill and the rubber band.
9Refit the heat shield, making sure it is
properly located.
10Refit the bi-metal housing, engaging the
end of the spring with the choke valve lever.
Fit the three screws, position the housing in its
original alignment (paragraph 4) and tighten
the screws.
11If the bi-metal housing alignment has been
lost, refer to the Specifications(see
illustration).Small deviations from the
specified setting may be made to correct over
or under-choking.
12Reconnect the choke feed wire, refit the
air cleaner and reconnect the battery.
13Check the idle mixture adjustment.
To adjust idle speed, refer to Chapter 1,
Section 15.
To adjust idle mixture, refer to Chapter 1,
Section 16.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Disconnect the wiring from the anti-
dieselling (anti-run-on) valve.
4Disconnect the wiring from the automatic
choke heater.
5Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses,
noting their locations to aid refitting. Plug the
ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage and
prevent the ingress of dirt into the fuel system.
6Disconnect the link arm from the throttle
linkage.
7Disconnect the vacuum pipe.
8Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
9Unscrew the four Torx screws, and lift the
carburettor from the inlet manifold. Recover
the gasket.10Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the mating faces of the inlet
manifold and the carburettor are clean,
and use a new gasket.
b)Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wiring are
correctly routed, and free from
restrictions. If any of the hoses were
originally secured with crimped-type clips,
discard these and replace them with
standard worm drive hose clips.
c)On completion check and if necessary,
adjust the idle speed and mixture settings.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
carburettor.
4Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses
from the carburettor, noting their locations to
aid refitting, and plug their ends to minimise
petrol spillage (see illustration).
5Disconnect the wiring from the automatic
choke.
6Disconnect the wiring from the anti-
dieselling (anti-run-on) valve.
7Remove the four Torx screws securing the
carburettor to the inlet manifold.
8Remove the two securing screws, and lift off
the carburettor top cover, leaving the
carburettor main body in place on the inlet
manifold.
9Slide the float retaining pin from the carburettor
top cover, tapping it gently if necessary, then lift
out the float and needle valve.
10If desired, the needle valve housing can be
unscrewed from the top cover. Recover the
washer and discard it; a new one must be
fitted on reassembly.
11Inspect the components for damage, and
renew as necessary. Check the needle valve
for wear, and check the float assembly for
leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol.12Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Use a new washer when refitting the
needle valve housing.
b)When refitting the float and needle valve,
ensure that the tag on the float locates
under the spring clip on the needle valve.
Check that the float and needle valve
operate smoothly.
c)Check and, if necessary, adjust the float
level as described below.
d)Ensure that the carburettor mating
surfaces are clean then fit a new gasket
onto the main body and refit the
carburettor top cover.
e)If the fuel hoses were originally secured
with crimped clips, discard these and
secure the hoses in position with new
worm drive hose clips.
f)On completion, check and if necessary
adjust the idle speed and mixture.
13With the carburettor top cover removed as
described above, proceed as follows.
14Fit a new gasket to the top cover, then hold
the carburettor top cover in a vertical position,
with the needle valve uppermost and shut.
15Measure the distance between the top
cover gasket and the bottom of the float(see
illustration).
16If the distance is not as specified, adjust
by bending the tag on the float assembly.
17Refit the carburettor top cover by
reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3Disconnect the diaphragm operating rod
from the throttle linkage by pulling the lower
section of the rod downwards and twist the
end of the rod from the socket.
4Remove the four cover retaining screws
then remove the cover and withdraw the
spring (see illustration).
22Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
secondary throttle valve
vacuum diaphragm renewal
21Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
needle valve and float removal,
refitting and adjustment
20Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
removal and refitting
19Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
idle speed and mixture
adjustments
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11
4
18.11 Bi-metal housing alignment marks -
Weber 2V carburettor
A Rich
B IndexC Lean
21.4 Float and needle valve locations in
carburettor top cover - Weber 2V TLD
carburettor
A Fuel hose
connectionsB Float
C Needle valve
21.15 Float level adjustment - Weber 2V
TLD carburettor
A Check dimensionB Adjustment tag
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